When I bought a used PS3, the Dualshock 3 controller it came with was heavily worn. I turned to ebay and found a "new" Dualshock 3 for $25 that truly looked legitimate, packaged in what looked like a genuine Sony box. Eventually I found out the new controller wasn't quite genuine and lacking full 16-way analog stick directionality in favor of a lesser 8-way, lacking button pressure sensitivity, and featuring some other recognizeable differences compared to a genuine controller.
The "fake" Dualshock 3 controller appears to be based on parts made by the original equipment used for genuine Dualshock 3 controllers. It's possible Sony is authorizing the development of these half-baked "new" controllers. It's also possible someone bought the assembly line equipment and is using them without Sony's permission to create them. Either way, most of the parts do appear to be made of the same materials and shaped exactly like the originals, suggesting the same manufacturing equipment was used. The main differences are the motherboard, sensor board, analog sticks and some of the assembly of the plastic parts are different.
Here are the difference between the two, both being labeled Dualshock 3+Sixaxis I will share (models will vary slightly depending on which original you compare to or which fake you buy):
The real DS3 controller allows a 16-way use of the analog sticks, while the fake only allows 8-way use. Try using your controller in a game with a 3rd person POV of the character and move around. If you need to move your left analog stick all the way to a 45 degree corner before the character turns from forward to a degree of diagonal movement, then you're only getting 8-way movement and this probably means you're using a fake.
The real DS3 controller has pressure senstive buttons like the DS2 controller. Try a game like MGS2 from one of the collections for PS3 and see if the pressure sensitivity works on the Square button (light press=aim gun, full press=fire gun).
The real DS3 controller is slightly more responsive than the fake controller. The fake is still very responsive and only behind by no more than 5-15ms if I had to geuss by eye, so you'd need both with you to tell the difference. Use the D-pad while navigating the PS3 main menu to easily test responsiveness.
The real DS3 controller features 4 plastic LED lights which should feel nearly flush with the surrounding plastic, while the LEDs on the fake controller stick out more. If your LEDs have noticeable edges it's likely you have a fake.
The font of the lettering "SONY," "SELECT," and "START" appear slightly bolder/thicker on the real DS3 controller. It's easier to see if comparing side by side, but you can compare your controller to my pictures and look for any noticeable font differences to help you decide if your controller is real or fake.
The analog sticks on the real DS3 controller appear to be cleaner with less plastic excess around the seams at the base. See the pictures for what I'm talking about.
Sony has changed the label it uses on the back of the controller for different versions or possibly regions, but on my models the sticker fits the sticker zone better on the real DS3 controller than on the fake, and the bar code section of the real DS3 controller appears slightly more metallic in how it reflects light than the fake which appears more matte-white.
When you plug your controller via USB into a computer running Windows, the device name of the real DS3 controller in control panel->devices and printers should read as "PLAYSTATION(R) 3 Controller," while my fake reads as "PS3 GamePad."
I'm unsure if Sixaxis works on the fake model but I've read online that it doesn't.
I hope this helps.
My message to the Chinese people making these fakes is to please start using 16-way analog sticks. Then I'd be mostly fine with them being sold as genuine controllers, as the quality and texture is original otherwise. Even without pressure sensitive buttons I think they'd be passable. But with 8-way analog directionality, these fakes don't pass for me.
After a few hours of trying to get it to work, I still haven't gotten my controller to work.
A few weeks ago, I tried it and it worked flawlessly, without motionjoy or SCPDrivers, however it doesn't seem to work at all now. The controller shows up in my device manager under the "Universal Serial Bus Devices" tab, but not anywhere in the devices and printers subsection of my control panel. At first, the controller's 4 lights would endlessly blink no matter what I did, until I installed every SCPDriver I could and now only one light is lit and it's not flashing. From what I gathered, this means it's connected as "player 1". I tried playing some games that recommend a controller on steam, but whenever I press a button it does literally nothing and the game doesn't even detect it. Also, https://html5gamepad.com/ doesn't seem to detect it either. Upon restarting my computer, I need to reinstall the drivers to get the "connected as player 1" thing, as just starting the computer has all 4 buttons flashing. All help is appreciated.
Things I've tried: restarting the PC, pressing that button in the back of the controller to reset its memory, disabling and reenabling the controller in the device manager, resetting everything on the controller and deleting all drivers associated with the controller and following an online tutorial tit for tat, angrily going to sleep and hoping that it magically gets fixed the next day, installing every driver that's on the SCPToolkit, launching SCP Server in administrator and installing, and possibly more that I'm forgetting.
I've been working on my collection this last month or so (just hit 115 titles!) and was curious about games that are still active online. After doing a bit of searching, I saw a post someone made months ago in regards to Warhawk. Now I wasn't as big into it as a lot of people, but I really enjoyed it. It was hectic, diverse, and provided a solid exclusive experience for PS3 multiplayer. After looking into the comment, I found out that a small group of players have found a way to play online even though the servers are down.
They use an app called Warhawk Reborn, which makes your PS3 think it is connected to a LAN game, and let's you still play online. While I don't fully understand how this wizardry works, I figured I would give it a go. Holy hell, does Warhawk hold up. I played for about 45 with a group of players and didn't experience any issues while playing. It was quick and easy to set up, and the players seem to jump on during the weekend.
I was wondering who else wanted to jump on and play a bit of Warhawk? It has been a nice change from Black Ops II and Bad Company II, and is still damn fun.
console was sold as is at my local game store's closing sale (RIP Microplay, you were a real one), I have repasted it, installed rebug cfw and have webman mod currently bumping the fan speed up. I don't feel comfy de-liding it. is that all for now or should there be something else?
I just bought a Sony X900F tv to replace my old lcd tv. But the problem is x900f has 42ms input lag for displaying 1080p source.
When I tried to play some PS3 game which has a lot of QTE, for example, god of war, the qte window become so small because of the lag and it makes the game become harder. If I am able to upscale the PS3 signal to 4k, then x900f input lag can be greatly reduced to 22ms which is comparable to my old Tv which is 18ms input lag.
Does anyone know after the processing of the mcable, does it output 4k signal or just 1080p signal?