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Mom is the best! For years, she’s showered you with love in
so many ways, big and small.
Happy Mother's Day 2019! - YouTube
Now, it’s your turn to remind her how much you truly appreciate her. Creating a beautiful container is something she’ll enjoy for months or even years to come. Watch as Laura from Garden Answer visits her family’s garden center to pick out a selection of plants, potting soil and fertilizer to make the cutest planter for her own mom.
Tips for Making a Flowery Container for Mom
First, start by selecting a container that’s her style.
You’ll find lots of fun, colorful and patterned containers at your local garden
center. Check to make sure your container has drainage holes in the bottom and
will fit the plants you select at their mature size.
Next, choose plants that spill, thrill and fill! You want one
plant that cascades, one that mounds and one that stands taller than the rest.
Look for 3-5 varieties of flowering plants, grasses or greenery. Does Mom have
a favorite flower or color? Try your best to incorporate those features into
your creative design.
The options are endless. Have fun as you mix colors and
textures for a winning combination. Check plant tags to make sure your plants
like the same growing conditions, sun exposure and amount of water before
Remove plants from their original containers and arrange
them in the new planter. Play around a bit and move the plants around to see
where each plant looks best. Remember to consider their mature size and give
them ample room.
Once the plants look perfect to you, fill in any gaps in the
container with more organic potting soil.
Wait till you see you mom’s face when you arrive on Mother’s Day with a beautiful, homemade container garden!
Houseplants aren’t limited to staying indoors year-round, in
fact they love the feeling of sunshine on their leaves and breathing in some
fresh air. However, when you take them outdoors, you need to do so appropriately,
otherwise they may go into shock.
Acclimating houseplants to outdoor conditions will reduce
shock and give them the best chance of thriving. Wait about four weeks from the
last frost before you start to acclimate them to the outdoors.
Photo courtesy of Costa Farms
Tips for Taking Plants
Outdoors: Hang in the Shade While this might seem counter-intuitive, direct sunlight can do more harm than good at first. Since the sunlight is filtered through windows inside, your houseplants aren’t used to the harshness of direct sun. Find shaded areas on your patio or under a tree for a few hours each day. Gradually move houseplants to an area with a little more sunshine daily, until they can be outside all day.
It will only take a few weeks to adapt to the light and then plants can stay outside until the end of the summer. Once they have adapted to the sunshine, be sure to place them in light they will enjoy. Similar to being indoors, don’t place plants in direct light, if they prefer indirect.
Clip and Snip Trim away any foliage that might have been damaged from the move or from being inside. Remove any brown tips and inspect them for signs of pests or diseases.
Photo courtesy of Garden Answer
Top it Off:
Revitalize soil by working in fresh Espoma’s Organic Potting Mix to each container. This will help to hold moisture and nutrients around plants’ roots.
Flowers for Mom
on Mother’s Day are always appreciated. But, what if you could give her a gift
that will lets her pamper herself all year? You can, with a spa-inspired
collection of plants!
naturally soothing elements on hand means mom can treat herself any day of the
week. Help mom have her best garden yet by adding Espoma’s liquid Grow! to fertilize her herbs regularly.
When Life Give You Lemons
with the all-star – lemon. They are a fabulous source of vitamin C, calcium,
magnesium and potassium—all antioxidants that improve the look and feel of
hair, nails and skin. The essential oil in lemons are used to fight stress,
fatigue and insomnia. It is also said to stimulate the immune system, alleviate
pain and promote weight loss. Whether she adds them to water or tea or make
them into a lemon sugar scrub for her skin, she’s going to feel more refreshed.
If she can
grow citrus outside, she’s a lucky one. But, even if she can’t, she can still
grow citrus in pots and bring them inside for the winter. She’ll be rewarded
with the incredibly fragrant, white blossoms. Lemon trees in big terra cotta
pots look very continental and will remind her of a trip she took to Italy or
the one she’s been dreaming about. Espoma’s Organic Citrus-Tone should be added for larger and more
flavorful fruits. Read more about growing lemon trees here: When Life Gives You Lemons.
Cool as a Cuke
for the veggie lovers. When you think of a spa day it may conjures up images of
fluffy bathrobes and slices of cucumbers covering eyes. Watery cucumbers
hydrates the skin and reduce puffiness. Along with this anti-inflammatory
effect, they have high levels of potassium, vitamin E and antioxidants to help
prevent wrinkles. Cucumber infused water is extremely refreshing and cucumber
infused, summer cocktails are delicious. Cucumber plants should be fed monthly
Eat, drink and be Rosemary
If you can’t fly her to Greece for a spa trip, she
can get the feeling by growing the herbs that originated there like rosemary,
mint and lavender. Rosemary will grow almost anywhere and will delight Mom with
tiny blue flowers that bees and butterflies love. Rosemary naturally reduces
stress and seems to have an astringent properties when used as a facial steam.
It may also aid memory and concentration. Bio-tone Starter Plus is great for
new plantings to give them their best start.
Mint to Be
Mint is a fast growing perennial that
can spread vigorously. We recommend planting in pots to keep it corralled. Use Espoma’s Moisture Mix
potting soil for best results. Mom can pinch off some fresh peppermint leaves and
pour boiling water over them to make a mint tea. It aids digestion and contains
antioxidants that can help boost the immune system. The fragrance of the tea
itself is refreshing and is often used to calm the mind. Mojito-loving moms can
also use it for their after-spa drinks.
Lavender has long been valued for its
anti-anxiety properties and helps with restlessness, nervousness and insomnia.
It’s often used in sachets under pillows to promote sleep or in baths as an aid
to relaxation. It can also be used in baking and to infuse drinks like lemonade
and Prosecco. Lavender should be used
sparingly, as it has a strong taste in food and drinks.
loves corn on the cob. It’s a staple of summer picnics and barbeques. Everyone
loves popcorn too, but most people don’t realize you can grow your own. This is
a fun and easy way to get kids involved in gardening. Seeds are relatively
large and easy for kids to handle. It’s fast growing and making your own popcorn
is a real treat.
You’ll Need Fertile Seed
can’t open a bag of popcorn from the grocery store and plant it. Most store
bought popcorn isn’t fertile because of the heating and sterilization processes
it undergoes. You’ll need to buy fertile
popcorn from your local garden center and there are plenty to choose from on
the internet. There are a few heirloom varieties that make great popcorn and
are beautiful too, you’ll want to use them for fall decorating.
variety named ‘Strawberry’ has short cobs, just 2-4 inches long with ruby red
kernels. ‘Dakota Black’ has 6-8 inch long cobs with kernels so deep purple they
look almost black. Think Halloween decorations! Perhaps the most beautiful is
called ‘Glass Gem’. The kernels are yellow, orange, pink, purple, green and
orange with a glossy, glass-like transparency. They are as beautiful to look at
as they are to eat!
Choose a Bright, Sunny Spot
in full sun, with well-draining soil. Mix in some of Espoma’s All-Purpose Garden Soil
and Bio-tone Starter Plus to refresh your soil. While these varieties of corn are somewhat smaller
than eating corn, they still need plenty of room. Space the seeds, 2 per hole,
eight to ten inches apart with 18-24 inches between rows.
Popcorn is a
thirsty plant. They will drink about 2 inches of water a week if it doesn’t
Add a layer
of mulch after planting to help hold moisture in the soil. Using soaker hoses
is a very efficient way to water, very little evaporates and the water is taken
up slowly and deeply. You should begin to taper off watering when you near the
harvest time, about 100 days.
Photo Courtesy of Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds/ RareSeeds.com
popcorn is just as important as watering it. All corn needs nitrogen. Using a
product like Espoma’s Plant-Tone is a great choice. It’s an organic,
long lasting, slow release fertilizer. It’s a good idea to feed popcorn when
it’s about knee high, when the silk forms or if the leaves start turning
yellow. Or, simply feed plants once a month.
Protect the Kernels
garden with kids, making a scarecrow is an absolute must! And, it may actually
help to keep the birds away. If birds are overly interested in your sprouting
corn, you could try using a chicken wire tunnel over each row.
Let the Corn Dry on the Stalks
In a dry
autumn, leave the corn on the stalks until they are dry. The husks should be
papery and dry and the kernels should feel hard. If it’s a wet fall, harvest
the corncobs and bring them indoors to finish drying. Simply pull back the
husks and spread them out on newspaper, out of direct sunlight. Popcorn is
generally harvested in October, 85-120 days after planting depending on weather
and when it was planted.
Photo Courtesy of Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds/ RareSeeds.com
not sure if your popcorn is dry enough, do a pop test. Put a few kernels of
corn into a hot pan with a little bit of oil. If it pops, it’s ready. If it
sticks to the pan, it’s not ready and needs to be dried longer. You can either
pop your corn the old fashion way, in a pan with oil or put one cob in a paper
bag and pop it in the microwave. Keep a close eye on your microwave cooking
time, until you know how long it takes for your popcorn to cook. Unpopped popcorn
can be stored in an air tight container all winter.
plants are relatively care-free additions to the garden. They come up every
year growing bigger and better. But, believe it or not, they can actually get
too big. The new shoots and roots get crowded, the stems in the center can die
off or the foliage may turn yellow. They’ll produce fewer and smaller flowers.
These are all signs that your perennials need to be divided.
your perennials has benefits that go beyond plant health. With all of your new
divisions you can increase their footprint in the bed they’re in or plant them
out to enliven other perennial borders. Sharing them with friends and neighbors
is always appreciated. Maybe they’ll share with you. Who doesn’t love free plants?
When to Divide Perennials
rule of thumb is that perennials should be divided about every three or four
years. Like all rules, there are exceptions. Some very vigorous growers like gooseneck loosestrife may need to be divided every
year or two. Others, like peonies don’t like to be disturbed at all. When to
divide is a frequently asked question. Spring flowering perennials are best
divided in the fall and fall blooming plants should be divided in the spring.
Naturally, there are exceptions. Many people in cold climates do all of their
dividing in the spring because plants don’t have a chance to reestablish
themselves before freezing weather hits in the autumn.
Rules are made to be broken, given enough TLC before, during and after
dividing, you can do it whenever it best suits you as long as the ground is not
frozen. The advantages of spring and fall division is that weather conditions
are usually cool and wet. This reduces the chances of your plants becoming stressed
and dehydrated during the process.
How to Divide
Water the perennials you intend to divide the day before you’ll actually
divide them. This makes it easier to get them apart and helps guard against the
roots drying out. It’s also a good idea to prepare the new bed they’ll be going
into so that the plants’ roots spend the least amount of time above ground. This
is also the best time to incorporate Espoma’s Bio-tone
Starter Plus into the soil. It will help the plants grow bigger, healthier
roots and also helps them to establish more quickly.
Divide the Plants
Grab some gloves and a spade and let’s start dividing. Use the spade to
cut a ring all the way around the plant to be divided and then pry it up. Depending
on the size of the plant or the root depth, you may need to use a trench
shovel. Holding the root ball over a wheelbarrow, gently loosen the soil around
the roots. Using a plant knife, an old kitchen knife or spade, divide the root
ball the best you can leaving as many roots as possible intact. If there a lot
of top growth on the plant, cut it back to about 6 inches so it is in balance
with the disturbed root system.
Place the divided sections in their new locations and the divided plant
back where it came from. Back fill with soil, making sure the top of the root
ball is at the same level it was previously. Water deeply. And, continue
watering well every few days for the first couple of weeks, then you can taper
off. Your plant might look a little sad and droopy at first. Don’t worry, it
will need a couple of weeks to recover and then everything will be fine. After
your plants have established themselves feed with Espoma’s Organic Plant-Tone.
California are known for their fresh oranges and citrus (the area between
California and along the Gulf Coast to Florida is even known as the citrus
belt). While growing citrus trees outdoors is best suited to USDA hardiness zones 8-10, if you live in zone 7 or cooler you can still
grow dwarf citrus in pots, however, you need to bring them indoors for the
winter. That might sound like extra work but one smell of the intensely
fragrant blossoms will make it all worthwhile.
Growing Citrus in
Citrus plants are sun worshipers, so choose a site in full sun, on the
southwest side of your house for best results. If possible, place it near a
wall or some other form of protection from wind and cold. Unlike many fruit
trees, citrus is self-pollinating meaning you don’t need to plant 2 trees for
cross pollination. Even so, bees and other pollinators will visit for nectar
Planting Your Tree
Late winter or early spring is the best time to plant. Citrus trees
prefer a sandy loam. Good drainage is a must for citrus. Plant your tree
slightly higher than the soil around it, as trees will settle in an inch or so.
It’s important that the graft (your tree will be grafted on to a different root
stock) be above ground so that a new tree doesn’t grow from the understock.
It’s best to use a fertilizer that is especially formulated for citrus
as their needs are very specific. Espoma’s Organic Citrus-Tone works perfectly. You
can add a layer of mulch around your tree to help deter weeds and keep moisture
in. However, keep mulch 2-3 inches from the trunk of the tree to prevent
disease. Water regularly and deeply. Citrus have shallow, broad root systems,
they don’t go deep when looking for water.
Citrus doesn’t require regular or heavy pruning[JC1] . They are generally
grown in the form of a shrub or hedge. You may remove some of the lowest
branches if you’d prefer more of a tree shape. Remove any “suckers” or thin
branches that are growing from below the graft. You’ll notice the graft because
it will be a little wider than the surrounding trunk. Also, feel free to remove
any fast growing branches that stick out and don’t fit the overall shape you
Growing Citrus in Cold Climates
It is possible to grow dwarf citrus trees in pots in cold climates as long as you have a place to overwinter them in a cool, bright spot like a sunroom. You’ll get the best fruit set if you grow your citrus outdoors in the summer and bring them inside before the first hard frost.
Potting Dwarf Citrus Trees
Citrus looks amazing in terra cotta pots.
It’s reminiscent of Italian villas. As always with container gardening, use the
best quality potting soil like Espoma’s
Organic Potting Soil. Place the pot on a saucer full of stones. That
way, the pot will never be sitting in water and the water in the rocks will evaporate
and supply humidity to the plants, which they like. Feed you citrus every 3 or
4 weeks with Citrus! It’s an organic, liquid fertilizer designed especially
for citrus plants.
Hoya Propagation & Care with Summer Rayne Oakes - YouTube
Hoya, commonly called wax plant or wax flower, are sought-after house plants because they are easy to grow, easy to propagate and have exotic, highly fragrant flowers. They are epiphytes, meaning that they grow on other plants and derive nutrients and moisture from the air. There are at least 300 to 400 different varieties, some even say 600 to 700.
Here are our
care tips for some of the most common varieties.
varieties of Hoya have waxy foliage resembling succulent plants. But, don’t be
fooled. They’re not related to succulents and don’t care for the hot sun in south-facing
windows. Try an east-facing window or a bright spot with indirect light.
grow on other plants, they need good air circulation and like their roots to dry
out. Overly wet soil spells disaster. It’s easy to create the perfect soil
mixture yourself. Simply mix equal parts of these three products; Espoma’s
organic Cactus Mix, Espoma’s Orchid Mix and Espoma’s Perlite.
Feeding and Watering
Hoya when the soil mix feels almost completely dry. Water it until the water
runs out of the bottom, then dump out the excess water. If leaves begin to
drop, you may be watering too often, just let the soil dry out a bit more in
between waterings. While not in bloom, feed your plant every 2-4 weeks with Indoor! Espoma’s liquid, fertilizer otherwise use Espoma’s organic, liquid Orchid! food. It has a little more phosphorus that will help the plant to
produce lovely, long-lasting flowers. They are both organic, gentle on plants
and come with a cap that premeasures the right amount for one quart of water.
The best way
to propagate Hoya is to take cuttings that have two nodes. A node is a place
where the leaves emerge from the stem. Either place them in a vase with water
or into a jar with moist sphagnum moss. Check on them every few weeks. When you
have a good root system, pot them in the same soil mix described above.
Brooklyn’s Hoya Care video Summer Rayne Oakes talks about the following Hoya
Hoya carnosa – It looks like a trailing plant,
but will climb a trellis.
Hoya carnosa ‘Compacta Variegata’ – A variegated
form with strongly curling foliage.
Hoya carnosa ‘Krimson’ – Has reddish stems and
Hoya multiflora – This one doesn’t like to dry out.
Add a larger percentage of cactus mix to the soil mix you make or water more
Hoya pubicalyx – This is a climbing variety.
Hoya bella –
A trailing habit for a hanging basket.
Hoya cumingiana – This is similar to Hoya bella but prefers a more alkaline
soil. Add crushed oyster shells or washed out, crushed eggshells to the top of
the soil to lower the pH.
Hoya pachyclada – This one is mounted on wood with
sphagnum moss. It’s a beautiful way to display the plant but it will dry out
faster and need to be watered more often.
Astilbes are the drama queens of the shade garden. You cannot help but admire these ‘no-fuss’ divas for their beauty and grace. Flowers can be delicate and frothy or stiff and compact. Blooms range in color from red, burgundy, white, purple, rosy-purple, peach and various shades of pink. The handsome, fern-like foliage is a delightful contrast to heftier leaves like those of Hosta and Rodgersia. Leaves can be shiny, matted or coarse. I like to insert additional zing to the garden by incorporating Astilbe with foliage that is bronze or burgundy tinged (‘Delft Lace’, ‘Fanal’, ‘Maggie Daley’), chocolate (‘Chocolate Shogun’), chartreuse rimmed in red (‘Amber Moon’) or chameleon-like (‘Color Flash’) – the leaves start out brilliant green and then morph to burgundy-purple before closing the season in blazing orange, red and yellow.
Photo Courtesy of Kerry Ann Mendez
Even though Astilbe is typically known as a shade perennial, it tolerates full sun, as long as there is enough moisture. Those in the chinensis species are best suited for drier conditions. These beauties also make wonderful container plants. Hardy in Zones 4 to 9 (many references claim Zone 3), pollinator-friendly Astilbe provides four seasons of appeal (leave the dried flower stalks up for winter interest) with little effort on your part!
Astilbes flower for three to four weeks but by mixing early, mid and late season cultivars, you can enjoy glorious blooms from mid-June until mid-August. These deer and rabbit resistant workhorses range in height from only around 8” (‘Lilliput’) to spectacular back of the border giants that can reach 4’ (‘Purple Candles’, ‘Mighty Pip’). Astilbe ‘Pumila’ makes a terrific, weed-smothering ground cover with low, overlapping leaves and late season, lilac-pink flowers that top out at 10”.
Photo courtesy of Kerry Ann Mendez
Astilbe does best in organically enriched, moisture retentive soil. You can achieve this by simply amending soil – or mulching – with compost, aged manures or similar materials. Further boost the floral display by fertilizing with Plant-tone, a slow release, organic fertilizer. Astilbe prefers an acidic soil (pH in the high 5’s or low 6’s). Check soil pH by taking a sample to your local extension office or use a do-it-yourself-kit such as Rapitest. To lower pH apply Espoma’s organic Soil Acidifier (elemental sulfur).
About the author: As an award-winning garden designer, author and lecturer, Kerry Ann Mendez focuses on time-saving gardening techniques, workhorse plants and sustainable practices. She has been on HGTV and in numerous magazines including Horticulture, Fine Gardening, Garden Gate and Better Homes & Gardens. Kerry Ann was awarded the 2014 Gold Medal from the Massachusetts Horticultural Society for her horticultural accomplishments. She has published four popular gardening books, her most recent being, The Budget-Wise Gardener (February 2018). In 2016 Kerry Ann introduced National Gardening Webinars that are attended by thousands. For more about Kerry Ann visit www.pyours.com
Laura walks us through fertilizing trees, shrubs, perennials in early spring. Wait until you see some growth on your plant to fertilize.
1. Gardening always starts with the soil. Organic fertilizer “feeds the soil that feeds the plants”. The process by which organic fertilizers deliver their nutrients enhances the fertility and structure of the soil.
Organics are digested by soil microorganisms, which then release the nutrients in a form available to plants. This process produces humus, a spongy material that improves soil structure. When you improve soil structure, the soil is better able to hold the proper balance of water, air and nutrients until they are required by plants.
Plants respond by developing larger root systems. Larger roots support more vigorous top growth and make plants less susceptible to drought. And by stimulating a healthy population of beneficial microorganisms in the soil, plants become more resistant to insects and diseases.
2. Organic fertilizers will provideslow, steady feeding, as the plants require it. The release process is slow and largely dependent upon three factors: the microbial population in the soil, moisture, and soil temperature.
A healthy population of microbes in the soil is necessary for the digestion process. Moisture is required to sustain microbial life as well as to keep nutrients flowing into the plants root zone. And soil temperature is critical because as it rises, plants require nutrients more rapidly.
Fortunately, microbial activity mimics these requirements and increases as soil temperature rises, so that organics feed the needed nutrients as the plants require them.
Pansies and violas look delicate but are in fact, tough as nails. They liven up our gardens and decorative pots in early spring and late fall, unfazed by cold weather or even snow. The first and last flowers of the year are the most precious and their “faces” shine even on the grayest days. Treat yourself to these little sunshines.
All pansies are violas but not all violas are pansies. Think of the smaller flowered varieties like the good old Jonny Jump Up as violas and the larger flowered varieties as pansies. Some violas are perennial, but they are mostly used as cool season annuals. Whichever you choose, they’ll provide seasonal color for weeks, and even months on end!
Today’s violets are descended from a European wildflower. In the Victorian language of flowers they were used to convey feelings of love and admiration or “I’m thinking of you.” Sentiments not openly shared in that time. The pansy was also the symbol adopted by the Free Thinkers Society, as the word pansy is from the French verb pensée, meaning to think. Wouldn’t you like to send a secret message to someone special?
Another charm of this family of flowers is that they are edible. In the simplest form, you could float one small flower on top of a cocktail. Decorate cakes and salads with their fresh blooms, add them to herb butters or suspend them in honey or jellies. Just one petal of the larger flowered pansies looks heavenly when garnishing appetizers. They even go with grilled meat. When consuming, it’s always best to use your own organically grown flowers and give them a quick rinse before eating.
Both pansies and violas can be planted in the ground, accentuating the edge of borders or growing up together with your spring bulbs. They are marvelous in containers too. An early season container combination could include a closely planted base of violas with pussy willow branches stuck into the soil between them for height. In the autumn, look for the orange and black varieties for a Halloween theme.
When assembling your container, make sure to use good quality organic potting soil like Espoma’s Organic Potting Mix and feed your container plants once a month with a Espoma’s Bloom! Liquid Fertilizer. This foundation will ensure that your plants have everything they need to thrive and bloom and be safe to eat. If you’re planting your violas in garden beds give them a feeding of Plant-tone, an organic, slow release fertilizer.
Violas and pansies will grow in sun or part shade but will do best with about 5-6 hours of light per day. Pansies will bloom longer if they get late afternoon shade. They don’t really like the heat. They both do best in moist but well-drained soil. In general violas tolerate both cold and heat better than pansies. Deadheading spent flowers is well worth your time and will keep plants flowering longer.