Swiss watchmaker Certina, despite boasting a rich heritage – founded in Grenchen, 1888, by Adolf and Alfred Kurth, had some what lost its way. By 1972 the brand employed 900 people and produced 600,000 watches every year. However, the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s and early 1980s took its toll and it never really recovered. Until now. With demand for affordable mechanical watches back where it should be – customers are seeing value in heritage brands. Which despite their relatively affordable price points do still carry an air of prestige. Sure, a £655 Certina will never carry the cachet of a five-figure Parmigiani Fleurier timepiece. But as an everyday watch or a first timepiece, Certina is a legit option.
DS (Double Security) Action Diver Watch
Certina’s resurgence is spearheaded by its new divers watch. Named the Certina DS (Double Security) Action Diver it boasts a 300 metre water-resistance, innovative Powermatic 80 movement and solid time-keeping precision. And crucially, it’s a nightly handsome divers watch too.
C032.407.11.051.02 (Black dial/ bezel, brushed 316L stainless steel bracelet and green second hand) – £655
Whether out surfing, snorkelling and diving among coral reefs or just busy with everyday life, the DS Action Diver is a suitable timepiece, offering precision and reliability. Inside, that Swiss Made ETA Powermatic 80 automatic movement delivers up to 80 hours of power reserve. While externally, the robust 43mm brushed stainless steel case equipped with a black aluminium unidirectional rotatable bezel conveys a suitably masculine feel.
At 12 o’clock, a protected Super-LumiNova® marking ensures that dive times can be easily consulted even in darkness. To the rear, a screw-down case back, decorated with the historical Certina turtle emblem, and a protected screw-in crown give the DS Action Diver reliability under water. On that, the DS (Double Security) detail conforms to ISO-6425 certification – a stringent standard for diving watches.
As if the above wasn’t enough, Certina have partnered with the Florida-based Sea Turtle Conservancy (STC) to raise awareness. STC is an organisation that devotes itself to the conservation of the sea turtle and its habitats, and Certina now produce a special aquamarine model to mark its dedication to this cause.
C032.407.11.051.10 (Aquamarine) – £655.
C032.407.11.051.02 (Black dial/ bezel, brushed 316L stainless steel bracelet and green second hand) – £655.
Your favourite cashmere overcoat or wool blazer. Investment pieces, no doubt of value and almost certainly not items of clothing you want to wash frequently. A run of colour or loss of shape are all perils of the washing machine and dry cleaner. So how to maintain a dirt, dust and hair free wardrobe? A lint roller? No – it won’t effectively remove anything more than superficial fluff. The optimal solution is to invest in a good quality clothes brush, to remove deep rooted dust, dirt and fluff. We alluded to this in Ape’s Ten Commandments of Style, under the section ‘Take Care’ – it’s a simple step, to ensure longevity.
Take a tailored wool suit for instance takes much more care to maintain than a synthetic fibre made, poorer quality suit. But it’s worth it. You should really brush the former after each time of wearing. It only take a couple of minutes. We all know that washing a finely tailored wool suit is a no go but as alluded to earlier, avoid dry-cleaning too. The chemical process will weaken fabric. You lose the bounce and the finish – they become shiny, flat and lifeless. Try a gentle steam in the bathroom for a freshen up or air by a window. Brush it instead to maintain longevity of your suit and other garments. Use dry cleaning as a last resort, and a good one at that.
What Makes a Good Clothes Brush
Often made with boar or horse hair, natural bristle clothes brushes are the best available. Cheaper alternatives are often made of synthetic nylon but because they have less ‘give’ can be too hard. Resulting in a harsher scrubbing or scratching of delicate fabrics. A natural bristle has better longevity too, potentially lasting a lifetime whereas a synthetic bristle will wear out more quickly.
For exceptionally soft, finely woven or velvet clothing you might wish to use a velvet-faced lint brush. Even more gentle than a natural bristle, a velvet-faced lint brush will pick up fluff, hair and other clinging particles. Try and avoid using tape, as it can leave marks. If you have time, by all means pick away at fluff and hair with your fingers but it will take a while. Specifically with regards to velvet – never brush against the lie of the fabric or it will mark. And ideally, use a dedicated velvet clothes brush such as this Brabantia Clothes Brush.
The better clothes brushes have bristles fitted into a wooden handle. Good quality wood will last a lifetime to match the longevity of natural bristles. While if ergonomically shaped will feel comfortable in the hand and easy to wield. You’ll thank us for this when putting some elbow grease into brushing down a suit.
How to Use a Clothes Brush
It’s important to use the clothes brush correctly to efficiently and effectively remove dust, dirt and hair. It’s wise to brush with firm sweeping movements, never scrub but a strong flick is allowed. A clothes brush is primarily used for cleaning surface debris but for anything deeper dampen the brush first, again don’t scrub – this might remove colour or worse, fabric. Remember to brush in the same direction at all times. This will ensure the fabric ‘points’ the same way, as when light lands on the material it can looked ruffled and untidy. For clothing stained with mud, you can consider a firmer bristle, but again – stay natural bristle.
To begin brush against the lie of the material to remove unwanted dust, dirt and hair. Then brush with the lie for a finished look. If you encounter a specific patch of dirt that requires a little more attention, brush with short, quick strokes. Remember to still apply gentle pressure here to avoid damaging fibres.
Where to Brush Clothing
For the committed amongst us, you might consider a wooden brushing table with no rough edges. This is a specific ‘thing’ more a table suitable and big enough to cope with the size of a blazer or coat. If it’s a smooth table you item of clothing may slide around so consider placing a blanket between the two.
The truth it however, you can brush on any flat and firm surface – providing you wipe it clean first. Failing that, leave your item of clothing on its hanger and brush against a wardrobe or a closed door. Hold the garment in one hand and brush with the other.
Brushing a Coat or Blazer and Trousers
To brush a coat or blazer ensure you’ve removed everything from the pockets, and all flaps are not tucked in. Turn up the collar and lapels, and lay the coat or blazer flat and front-face down. Fold back the shoulders flat, and place the arms towards the centre of the coat or blazer. Brush up the lie of the material first, and up (or down, lie dependent) the entirety of the coat or blazer with long sweeping brush strokes. Start with the buttons side, and work inwards. Remember to brush the sleeve, and then underneath the sleeve. For more intricate areas such as the shoulder – brush from the collar to the shoulder tip using short, quick strokes. The same applies to the collar.
For trousers, again – brush up the lie of the fabric first and then down. Place the trouser legs neatly on top of each other. Start with the outside of the trouser, brushing with a long sweeping action. Hold the trouser at the cuff. Then fold each leg over the waist of the trouser, to brush the inside of the leg. If you trousers have cuffs, turn these and brush with short, quick strokes – as dust will likely collect here. You might dampen (not soak) a clothes brush to freshen clothes should they need it.
Three of The Best Clothes Brushes
The master of brushes and combs; Kent Brushes delivers a first class clothes brush with their CC20 Cherry Wood Natural Bristle Clothes Brush. Double-sided it boasts both stiff and soft bristle sides. The stiff bristle side is good for removing mud or dirt from the bottom of trousers for instance, whereas the soft bristle side is better for more gentle brushing of delicate fibres such as fine cashmere.
The Kent CP6 Clothes Brush is a dark-wood ‘cashmere care’ clothes brush filled with black and white pure bristles. Ideal for keeping delicate fabrics free from fibres, fluff and hair. Suitable for use on a variety of delicate fabrics such as fine-wool, cashmere and silk.
Don’t worry – we don’t expect you to lug a sizeable clothes brush around with you for that weekly business trip or foreign wedding. So the Kent CC2 is a perfect perfect solution and all round clothes brush. It’s small rectangular size without handle, made from Cherry wood and pure black bristle easily slips inside carry on luggage. Ideal for refreshing suits when travelling.
It seems sensible that given the price of a fine-quality, well-fitted suit – that proper maintenance is key to longevity, and optimal condition. A couple of minutes of brushing make all the difference. Protect your investment, the right way.
To celebrate the Royal Wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle, esteemed whisky purveyors Royal Salute have released a commemorative Royal Salute Royal Wedding Edition whisky. The limited edition whisky features tasteful nods of reference to this unique marriage. Limited to a release of only 70 bottles, the exclusive whisky builds on the success of previous commemorative whiskies from Royal Salute.
“By marrying together some of the oldest and rarest whiskies in our portfolio, and ageing them in American oak casks, I have created a harmonious blend to match the coming together of such an iconic couple.” – Sandy Hyslop, Royal Salute Master Blender
A Collectors Item
Blending is the cornerstone of Royal Salute and for this special release they blended more than just whisky. Adopting a number of influences that reflect the Royal couple, thought has gone into every aspect of its presentation. As a tribute to Meghan’s American heritage, this unique blend has been fully matured in 100% American oak casks. A first for Royal Salute. Resulting in a lasting and creamy finish that complements its sweetness on the nose. The Royal Wedding Edition whisky features a blend of 55 year old, 36 year old and 33 year old whiskies that only Royal Salute are lucky enough to have within their archive. The sweet nose boasts notes of creamy vanilla followed by burnt mandarin and spicy cinnamon.
A Royal Presentation
The elegant bottle is hand-blown in blue crystal by Dartington Crystal. It features etchings of roses, thistles and barley, painted in silver. Additionally, the presentation box has been hand-crafted in American oak. And within, its adorned with flowers and foliage as a subtle nod to this Spring wedding. Daffodils celebrate Harry’s title as Prince Henry of Wales while California poppies feature in tribute to Meghan’s birth place of Los Angeles. Each bottle is engraved with a unique number, with 1 of 70 being given to Harry and Meghan.
“The marriage of HRH, Prince Henry of Wales, to Ms Meghan Markle, will be one of the most exciting events this century. Since its creation in 1953 in honour of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth’s coronation, Royal Salute has enjoyed a long and proud heritage of celebrating historic British royal events – and we believe this remarkable new blend is a perfect tribute to such a special moment in history.” – Royal Salute Brand Ambassador, His Grace The Duke of Argyll
The Royal Salute Royal Wedding Edition is available at selected retailers and through special enquiry. Priced at $10,000. Whisky connoisseurs can contact Royal Salute at firstname.lastname@example.org for more information.
Rarely does a fragrance capture our attention so firmly as Eight & Bob has done. Not only for the scent but for the story surrounding story of its birth. Eight & Bob was born in the 1930’s and created by a Parisian aristocrat named Albert Fouquet.
Monsieur Fouquet possessed a nose for developing his own fine fragrances, exclusively for his personal use. On the upper floor of the family chateau Fouquet would experiment with various essences aided by Philippe, the family butler. He’d then wear these fragrances to social events, where his acquaintances in French high society would enquire about the formidable aromas. However, he’d rarely share is creations.
Discovered on the Côte d’Azur by JFK
John F. Kennedy (JFK), 35th President of the United States from January 1961 – enjoying some sailing
Nevertheless, this is all changed one night during a summer vacation in 1937 on the French Riviera. By chance, he got talking to a young American student touring the Côte d’Azur in a convertible car. The student instantly captivated by Fouquet’s scent wanted to know more. That student was John F. Kennedy, the man destined to become 35th President of the United States in January 1961. JFK’s renowned charm and congeniality persuaded Fouquet to leave a sample of the cologne at his hotel the following morning. The request was fulfilled, accompanied by a short note…
“In this jar, you will find the dash of French glamour that your American personality lacks.”
Another one for Bob (RFK)
On returning to Paris, Fouquet received a letter from JFK back in the United States thanking him and informing him of the success his fragrance was enjoying amongst friends. He requested that Albert send him eight samples, “and if your production allows, another one for Bob” – Bob being JFK’s brother; Robert F. Kennedy or RKF. So, packaged in glass bottles and boxes decorated with the same pattern as the shirt that JFK was wearing when they met, Fouquet shipped the fragrances and labelled the consignment “EIGHT & BOB”.
A few months later Fouquet began receiving letters from America with requests for “EIGHT & BOB” from various Hollywood directors, producers, and actors such as Cary Grant and James Stewart. They had discovered the fragrance through JFK’s father, who had maintained relationships with well-known stars because of his previous business ventures in the movie industry.
Unfortunately a road accident in Biarritz cut short Fouquet’s life and with it the production of Eight & Bob. However, his trusty butler Philippe who had assisted in the production of the original fragrance had hidden any remaining bottles inside books from the Nazi’s during World War II and decades later, his family released the formula for production and purchase today.
Top notes: Pink Pepper, Cardamom and Lemon
Heart notes: Violet Leafs, Labdanum and Dry Woods
Base notes: Sandalwood, Amber and Vetiver
The key ‘hidden’ note of the unisex fragrance is ‘Andrea’ – an aromatic herb found only at altitude in the Andes, Chile. Due to the rarity of this ingredient, and irregular growth pattern only a certain amount of production can occur, resulting in a worldwide limited supply. Fortunately, EIGHT & BOB is available today and made according to the original formula. The very same formula JFK admired so much. EIGHT & BOB is light, but impacting – a year round option, but perhaps best suited for the warmer months. Inoffensive but reassuring, it can be worn at any occasion – be it the office or a wedding. We thoroughly recommend it.
RFK 50th Anniversary Edition – Robert F. Kennedy
Presidential candidate Robert F. Kennedy (RFK)
To mark the 50th anniversary of RFK’s death in 1968, Eight & Bob are partnering with the Robert F. Kennedy Human Rights Foundation. An organisation managed by Kerry Kennedy, daughter of RFK – a human rights activist and lawyer. Eight & Bob will donate a percentage of the revenue received from this special edition fragrance to the foundation, as a tribute to RFK’s dream of a more fair and peaceful world. You’ll find the original EIGHT & BOB fragrance within but house in an RFK special edition bottle and box, and at a stronger Eau de Parfum strength.
The Robert F. Kennedy Human Rights Foundation advocates for a more just and peaceful world. They work alongside local activists to ensure lasting positive change in governments and corporations. The team includes leading attorneys, advocates, entrepreneurs and writers united by a commitment to social justice.
Eight & Bob Original Eau de Toilette in a Book, 100ml priced £140 at HARVEY NICHOLS. Or the RFK Limited Edition Eight & Bob Eau De Parfum, 50ml priced £110, also at HARVEY NICHOLS.
After a pleasantly surprising Grand Saturday Morning earlier this year with the new Vauxhall Grandland X we changed our mind on this iconic British brand. Formerly Vauxhall conjured up images of police cars and corporate motorway cruisers but the design team have since bought the brand into the twenty-first century. Handsome modern designs, edgy interiors and solid build quality have all assisted with elevating Vauxhall. And now on to Life HaX.
Introducing the Life HaX tool
As a continuation of Vauxhall’s upping of its ‘cool’ game the brand have released a new multi-tool named Life HaX. A penknife for 2018. The hand-held tool marks the launch of the Grandland X, the new SUV that was designed with our ever-changing lives in mind.
Photographing with the Life HaX’s wide-angle lens attachment: for those all-important Instagram snaps
Car maintenance laser: a world-first, attach to your Grandland X bonnet to shine a laser and highlight where the screen wash, oil cap and dipstick is
Lego un-picker: to stop you breaking your fingernails trying to unpick Lego – for the father’s amongst you
Wide-angle lens attachment: for those all-important Instagram snaps
Macro lens attachment: for close-up photography
Power bank: for when your phone runs out of battery on the move
iPhone pin: for removing the SIM from your phone
Torch: for when you can’t see under the sofa or the back of the boot
Stylus: to give that extra precision when drawing on your tablet
Knot un-picker: because knots do happen
Screwdriver: because traditional household jobs haven’t gone away
“At Vauxhall, we’re always looking for ways to make drivers’ lives easier, and the Grandland X is no exception. Inspired by our new SUV, the Life HaX provides drivers with the tools they need to enjoy life’s daily adventures, combining the practicality and style of the car that inspired it.” – Richard Shaw, Chief Designer at Vauxhall
A Genuinely Useful Tool
While the Life HaX tool is clearly aimed at those with children, the pressured do-it-all modern parent types, it’s universality for all is apparent. As with the Grandland X, an SUV for the modern man, whether he’s a father or not, the vehicle is a solid option. As is the Life HaX tool, a genuinely useful bit of kit.
Power bank: for when your phone runs out of battery on the move
Part of Ape’s Routine
Naturally the Life HaX tool was useful in our daily routine too. The wide angle and macro lenses were particularly relevant for our Instagram feed. Normally we use a dSLR camera but when on the move, this isn’t always practical. For anyone who operates with an iPhone like we did, you’ll be well aware how essential a power bank is. Just plug your iPhone into the Life Hax for instant charging power. We also found the torch useful for a whole range of problems – such as checking oil levels in the dark before a long journey. And finally, our pair of Oliver Peoples sunglasses suddenly developed loose arms which the Life HaX’s inclusive screwdriver cured. Genuinely, the Life HaX despite us thinking it was a gimmick to begin with, was actually useful. Drop it in your glovebox or your bag, you’ll see the benefits – like we did.
Torch: for when your oil levels are low… at night
Order on Request
Car maintenance laser: a world-first, attach to your Grandland X bonnet to shine a laser and highlight where the screen wash, oil cap and dipstick is
A few specifics on the Grandland X before we finish. As mentioned its the latest SUV from Vauxhall Motors, featuring a huge 1,652 litres of boot space, concierge service OnStar, heated windscreen, seats and steering wheel, wireless phone charging and hands-free power tailgate. The limited edition Life HaX is available to order on request. Visit vauxhall.co.uk/lifehax to register interest now.
After researching How To Improve Your Health With Technology and with more and more of us using technology in our daily lives, we became curious about the impact of technology on the human body. And not just with the use of smartphones by your ear, beyond this. On the whole, surely it’s a good thing? But there must be some negatives too? Combining our position at the coal-face of consumer tech, we enlisted the help of Dr Jet Khasriya, an NHS-registered and private GP for GPDQ (the UK’s first doctor-on-demand app) to investigate.
Simpler Days versus Modern Medicine
During meetings, doctors often debate the impact of technology on the human body, and there are broadly two camps: the traditionalists who want a return to the long forgotten “simpler days”, and the modernists who embrace the rapidly changing landscape of modern medicine. Whatever your view, there are compelling arguments on both sides and I would place myself somewhere in the middle. While I appreciate technology and the possibilities it brings to the lives of mankind, I am less enthralled with the way that it has influenced individuals in recent times.
A 1981 vintage general practice computing system. Source: BMJ
Glued to Our Screens
As you’re sitting on the tube, or enjoying a coffee, take a look around you right now and count how many people (including you) are glued to a screen at this very moment. Nobody can deny that technology pervades almost every living moment, in some cases permeating our very essence. Given the rapid advances we have seen recently, we must acknowledge what effects (good and bad) technology is having on our bodies and our health.
Improved Medicine Makes Us Live Longer
On a macroscopic level, technology is doing great: we’re living longer with advances in healthcare, pharmacology and molecular biology. Modern medicine has effectively doubled the average human lifespan in a little over a century.
When we get sick, what can’t a modern doctor do? On a normal day at work we could spot an early cancer and have it staged within two weeks, work out someone’s risk of having a stroke or a heart attack and then reduce it with the click of a button, inject medicine into a joint to make it move again and prescribe a pill that, for a depressed patient, would make life worth living again.
There was a time, not long ago, when snapping your cruciate ligament would result in a lifetime of disability leading to misery and sometimes poverty. Such an injury is now a badge of honour amongst wealthy middle-class skiers and would cause no more than an inconvenient visit to the doctor.
Self-diagnosing with Dr Google
Whereas in the past, people had to depend primarily on their doctors for information and advice about their health, now the Internet has evolved, stepping in as an amazing resource for those seeking health-related information. Dr Google has fuelled a certain amount of hypochondria around personal health but it has led to patients feeling more involved in their health choices. Medical data is frequently being published online and Google is currently taking steps to make symptom-searching less scary by adding sensible medical advice, written by its own team of doctors.
“Am I sick?” Ape self-diagnosing via Google
Studies predict that within ten years a medical check-up could involve more interaction with sensors, cameras and robotic scanning devices than human doctors and nurses, as healthcare organisations rebuild services around the Internet of Things (IoT). Using app-based and wearable tools to monitor your health and even carry out your own scans, patients will finally have the ability to self-diagnose a wide number of conditions at home, without needing to visit a surgery or hospital.
Tech Gadgets Enhance Health and Fitness
As the health tech revolution continues to develop at pace, it has become easier for us to access our health metrics through our smart devices. This information can be extrapolated, and AI can suggest changes which could improve your health and help to manage health conditions.
From fitness bands to smart watches and sensors, and tech with medical applications like blood glucose monitors, health tech is now being widely adopted by many people who want to take personal responsibility for their health. For example, using a smart scale which hooks up to an app, enabling you to track your weight loss goals and progress.
Many health commitments fail because of lack of focus or because we struggle to fit them into our day to day lives. But with fitness gadgets, we can find motivation by setting ourselves daily goals and activity reminders to move more.
Smartphones cause ‘musculoskeletal problems’
If we narrow our focus we get a snapshot of the ‘trickle down’ effects that technological advancement is having on our daily health. The single biggest culprit may be the device you are reading this article on right now: your smartphone – a device which allows us to communicate with anyone in the world, have access to almost all known human knowledge, and which guides our health decisions daily – a device which we are hopelessly addicted to. This ubiquitous gadget might be harming your health and there seems to be more and more evidence to support this theory.
With increased usage of smartphones, tablets and laptops, more people are visiting their doctors with musculoskeletal complaints such as ‘tech neck’ (neck strain) or ‘text claw’ (tenosynovitis). Scrolling on Instagram for hours and incessant text messaging is negatively affecting our posture and putting pressure on our necks and backs. The repetitive motor activity of texting and grasping our smartphones can cause muscle tension and pain in our forearms, wrists and fingers.
Sleep deprivation and screen strain
There is evidence that our daily ‘screen time’ has multiple negative effects on our mental health, causing sleep disturbance, headaches and mood problems including Generalised Anxiety Disorder and Depression.
Staring at a screen for too long can exhaust our sight, causing our vision to become blurry, and drying out our eyes. You may also experience tension headaches as another result of digital eye strain. Research shows that excessive tech use – particularly right before bedtime – can have an adverse impact on our sleep cycles thanks to the glowing light that’s emitted from screens.
All of these things can cause increased levels of pain and in a world where there is a growing problem of opioid addiction, could we infer that technology, in part, is the pernicious element at play?
Sedentary lifestyle and mental health
Our abode has changed drastically with advancing technology. Modern architectural techniques and town planning mean that we are living in cavernous, heavily insulated mega-structures. We seldom have to move further from the television to the bed when we are at home. With the proliferation of mobile technology there is now an app for everything. Taxis, dry cleaning, massages: you name it, they have it. You might wonder, how is this harmful?
Apart from the obvious issues related to a sedentary lifestyle, such as obesity and diabetes due to poor diet and lack of exercise, we must also consider the effect of modern living spaces on our mental health. Knowing that we are a community-orientated species, could isolated dwelling and fractured communities explain the increasing levels of depression and anxiety we are seeing?
Simon Sinek on Millennials in the Workplace - YouTube
Worth a Watch: Simon Sinek on Millennials in the Workplace
We’ve never been more connected and being able to contact anyone, anywhere and anytime is great – but is the experience the same as talking to that person face to face? It seems that social isolation is actively encouraged by tech, in a world where we can order food, listen to music and take part in group discussions, all from the comfort of our mass produced, modular sofas. Speedy broadband means that the office comes to us and more people are working from home now: this is good for the employers and possibly for the environment, but what about us?
The irony of technology is that it is the cure and the disease. We can improve our exercise with fitness trackers, become healthier with calorie counters, control chronic illness with biometric analysers and take as much needed time out with supersonic aeroplanes. It’s not all doom and gloom for us. Are we destined to become hyper-anxious myopic cave dwellers? The answer to this depends on our ability to manage our rapid ascent on our journey to becoming a super-species, the likes of which the world has never seen before.
As per Ape’s Ten Commandments of Menswear – simple wins. And it doesn’t get more simple or versatile than the white t-shirt. Originally deemed underwear as part of an all-in-one undergarment, the white t-shirt separated itself at the end of the nineteenth century when two-piece underwear became popular. Nevertheless, it was around the time of World War I in 1913 when the white t-shirt truly came into its own. Issued as an undergarment for British and American naval personnel, it kept sailors’ arms free for deck work aboard their ships – and was worn alone to avoid soiling their uniforms. In the Navy it became known as a “Gob Shirt”.
The next major breakthroughs for the white t-shirt breezed in during the early twentieth century. With British brand Sunspel (Thomas A. Hill and Co. back then) introducing the white t-shirt as a lightweight cotton essential for warmer climates. Meanwhile across the Atlantic Ocean, Fruit of the Loom and Hanes were manufacturing their own versions of the white t-shirt. All still as underwear mind. The white t-shirt was also being used as an undergarment that would absorb sweat and prevent shoulder pads of American football players from causing chafing.
A Vintage 1959 Hanes Advert
A Certain Machismo
After World War II the white t-shirt became a stand alone piece. Deemed acceptable as an ‘outerwear’ garment, worn in place of a casual buttoned shirt. It’s military heritage bought with it a certain amount of machismo, another reason for the white t-shirts’ popularity. However, it’s the basic white t-shirts’ simple design, versatility and blank-page quality that resonates. It can denote a hard-working-class status, symbolise rebellion, athleticism and sexiness all in one unique go.
Originally, white was an inexpensive option for the British and American navies. It required no dyeing. And dirt and stains were impossible to hide too, which encouraged discipline with seamen battling heat in tropical climates and aforementioned uniform soiling dirty jobs. There was of course the introduction of logo emblazoned white t-shirts, and t-shirts in every colour you can imagine. However, the clean, basic and historic constitution of the white t-shirt make it the long-standing, all-conquering hero. A theory cemented by movie legends, and icons of style and sex-appeal; Marlon Brando and James Dean.
Crew or V-Neck
The ‘James Dean-style’ crew neck is still the most timeless style available. The classic. So for us, it’s a no brainer – wear the crew neck every time. There’s an argument for a v-neck or scoop neck (lower neckline) suiting men with either a slim or overly muscular frame. However, we say opt for a crew neck t-shirt all the way. Characterised by a round neckline and no collar.
James Dean ‘owning’ the white t-shirt in the 1955 film Rebel Without a Cause
Fit and Material
Material is easy, choose 100% cotton every time. Colour we’ve addressed, opt for white. Fit is less concrete however. Too baggy, excessively wide sleeves or conversely, too tight – can all look unkempt.
Sleeves should land halfway between your shoulder and elbow. With the shoulder seam (where the body attaches to the sleeve) falling where your shoulder ends and drops off down your arm. Choose a slim or tapered fit if you’re body confident. Never skinny-fit or longline. If you’re carrying a little Christmas weight then choose a classic fit.
The white t-shirt should sit at the top of your hips, no longer or shorter. And remember, above all else – it should be comfortable for you to wear.
Three of The Best
The Men’s Classic Cotton T-Shirt in White from Sunspel is some what of a legend in its own right. Given Sunspel’s pivotal role in the birth of this universal wardrobe staple, it would be remiss not to include it. Not only for its heritage but its construction quality earns it a place in our top three. Made in England using long-staple cotton it boasts unparalleled softness, lightness and comfort. Sunspel’s crew neck has a classic fit and only the most essential of details. It’s figure-flattering, not boxy and is a delight to wear.
You just know that when it came to developing MR PORTER’s signature Mr P. tee, they pulled out all the stops. And they did. Their Cotton-Jersey T-Shirt feels as comfortable as it looks. Cut from lightweight cotton-jersey that has been treated with a silicone wash makes for exceptional softness. Designed with a regular but well fitting cut.
For the price, Uniqlo often can’t be matched. And their 100% Supima cotton T-shirt is no exception. It’s superfine but thick enough to wear on its own or for layering. And luxurious jersey provides a smooth feel, natural brightness and powder white colour. It boasts a smooth silhouette from the chest down to the waist, with sleek shoulders and armholes. While a narrower seam fold and stitching ensure a more delicate, flattering neckline.
The white t-shirt can be worn anywhere, from a tenement in New Orleans (Marlon Brando in A Streetcar Named Desire) to the red carpet. Wear it with a suit and sneakers to ‘cool-up’ a smart casual ensemble or our preference, keep is simple. Team with blue or black jeans and beige or white sneakers. Add a casual bomber jacket on cooler days.
Alex Mill Loopback Cotton-Jersey Bomber Jacket in Navy, £200 >
The truth is, any brand worth its salt will ensure its version of the white t-shirt is impressive. It’s an essential, a basic which must be gotten right. Whilst taking all of the above into account, remember that fit trumps all.
Chang Sensory Trails seeks to deliver ‘the unexpected’ through a bohemian mix of Thai food, art and music. So far, so good? Through a rich, multi-sensorial experience Chang Sensory Trails 2018 takes place in London on Saturday 12th May at the Last Days of Shoreditch venue. Ape attended last year’s Chang Sensory Trails 2017 which opened our eyes to the exquisite variety that Thai food, drink and culture possesses.
Thai Sweet Crispy Rice Cakes – crispy rice cakes
To expand on 2017 and for Chang Sensory Trails 2018, Chang has partnered with 8 Thai restaurants in London; Tawana, Bang Bang Soho, Patara, 101 Thai Kitchen, LAO Cafe, Rosa’s Thai Cafe, Thai Tho and Nipa Thai. With the head chef from each restaurant challenged to create a signature dish representing Thai home cooking. Ape visited Tawana at 3 Westbourne Grove in London where amongst other delicious courses we feasted on Moo Yang Jim Jael – a grilled pork loin Thai style dish. None other than the word ‘mouthwatering’ will do to describe how tasty this was. Of course, it was all washed down with a couple of bottles of cool, refreshing Chang Beer.
Mee Gati – Thai rice noodles
Thai Sweet Crispy Rice Cakes: crispy rice cakes with tamarind, peanuts, minced chicken and dipping sauce.
Mee Gati: Thai rice noodles, coconut milk and tamarind sauce.
Moo Yang Jim Jael: grilled pork loin Thai style, marinated with Thai herbs and served with ground roasted rice, and spicy tamarind sauce.
Ape’s Style Editor Chris Chasseaud enjoying Moo Yang Jim Jael (also pictured top) – grilled pork loin Thai style
Celebrating Kinships Among Friends and Strangers
The owner of Tawana
Inspired by the Thai philosophy of Lamiat, Chang Sensory Trails 2018 celebrates kinships among friends and strangers. Which might sound forced but getting to know a few Thai people around this project it’s clear to see that being friendly and hospitable is inbuilt within their psyche. In a world where customer service is often lost, it’s not at Tawana in particular. And beyond customer facing service – the levels of service deepen into a passion for fine craftsmanship with their food.
Experience Thai food, Art and Music Culture Yourself
If you fancy experiencing a little Thai food, art and music culture yourself – head down to Chang Sensory Trails 2018 this Saturday, 12 May 2018. You’ll find four different thematic zones in a single event space for a multi-sensorial event.
Time: 12pm – 10pm
Place: Last Days of Shoreditch, 288 Old Street, EC1V 9LA
Date: 12 May 2018, Saturday
Chang Beer – chilled
Delight the Senses
You’ll be able to indulge your taste buds as all eight of London’s finest Thai restaurants will be serving their own mouth-watering selection of thoughtfully curated dishes. Enjoy an eclectic mix of live tunes from Soul Strutters and CDD Trio Band with musical performances throughout the day. If you’re quick, you might be in with a chance of winning a pair of VIP passes where you’ll enjoy first dibs on all eight Signature Recipes in one epic course meal. VIP Passes will be given away on the Chang Beer Facebook page and UK Twitter profile, @ChangBeerUK. For the 100th,150th, 200th, 250th and 300th person who mark as ‘attending’ on our social pages, they will be randomly selected as the winner of a pair of VIP Passes. For more information visit changbeer.com/changsensorytrails – otherwise, see you there.
The Tom Ford branding machine knows no bounds. Of particular interest to Ape are Tom Ford’s superb fragrance collections. And recently – its Tom Ford Sunglasses Collection. A category dominated by stalwarts such as Persol and Oliver Peoples, Tom Ford is making a serious case for recognition as a legitimate eyewear brand. Bold acetates and elegant metal frames, in classic styles are paving the way to success. There’s a certain air of sophistication attached to the brands’ glasses and sunglasses offering. Acknowledged by many a respected-style icon celebrity, including the likes of Brad Pitt.
Having forged a brilliant career in haute couture, American fashion designer Thomas Carlyle “Tom” Ford launched his eponymous brand in 2004. And hasn’t looked back since. He previously served as the creative director at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent which tee’d up his own brand perfectly. Tom Ford are known for their outlandish advertising campaigns – raunchy and sexy if you will. And most recently the interestingly named, Fu*king Fabulous fragrance. But back to sunglasses. Tom Ford sunglasses are perhaps best known for its Aviator and Wayfarer frames and darker colours and patterns such as different hues of Brown, Black, Green and Tortoise.
6 Of The Best
Perhaps best known is the Tom Ford FT5294, a classic round shaped pair of glasses with havana frames. All crafted in lightweight, durable and timeless materials and design. All are vintage-inspired and feature the unmistakable yet subtle ’T’ curving around the temple and onto the front of the frame. Which makes them instantly recognisable. Tom Ford frames are equally at home with a suit as they are on the beach. Here are Ape’s six of the best Made in Italy Tom Ford Sunglasses and pieces of eyewear.
Ape’s Editor; Chris Beastall wears the Tom Ford Henry Vintage Wayfarer FT0248 in Dark Havana frame and dark metal (colour code 52A). Photographs by Toby Clark for Ape to Gentleman
A retro-inspired pair of Tom Ford sunglasses, the unisex Snowdon FT0237 boasts an ultra thick frame. With arms beginning at the top of the frame corners with the signature Tom Ford ’T’ across the temples. Available in Black on (Dark) Havana or patterned Tortoiseshell. And yes, these were worn by James Bond (Daniel Craig) in SPECTRE.
The Tom Ford Eric-02 FT0595 sunglasses also include the signature Tom Ford ‘T’ at the temple. Squared in style, they are ideal for those with round and oval face shapes, and for both formal and casual wear. Available in Havana, Black and Dark Brown acetate frames, with brown and green lenses.
Another pair of sunglasses worn by James Bond (Daniel Craig) in SPECTRE – the Tom Ford Henry Vintage Wayfarer FT0248. The colour worn by Bond is a Dark Havana frame and dark metal (colour code 52A). Also available in Black and Gold. They feature an acetate front with gunmetal inserts and the ’T’ logo at the temples. Also worn in the pictures above by Ape’s editor Chris Beastall.
Classic Soft Square Optical Frame Glasses
With thick Black, Dark Havana or Vintage Havana rectangular design, the Classic Soft Square Optical Frame FT5178 are constructed with acetate and the Tom Ford signature metal ’T’ temple decoration. The Tom Ford FT5178 is perhaps one of the most iconic pairs of Tom Ford glasses – seen in a variety of adverts for the brand.
Cecilio Blue Block Optical Glasses
The FT0628-O Cecilio Blue Block Optical glasses are little out there design wise, but stylish nonetheless. The shining ’T’ insets brand the temples of these bold, angular optical glasses with a sleek, flat topline. Available in shiny black acetate only with clear lenses with a blue coating to reduce the risks related to blue light exposure.
Tom N.13 Glasses
The FT5499-P N.13 glasses are available in Green Horn or Dark Brown. And feature a soft-square shape with signature ’T’ detailing at the temple. The shiny striped real Green Horn frame with gold ’T’ logo features light brown lenses. Whereas the the Dark Brown version features a light blue lens.
Royal Warrant shirtmaker of Jermyn Street Turnbull & Asser have released the Journey Shirt collection. A range of luxury business shirts, created especially for the man on-the-go. The collection is made in collaboration with iconic fabric mill, Thomas Mason. And consists of eleven crease-resistant, sophisticated and effortless shirts.
From Boardroom to Dinner
Formed of four variants (traditional Twill, Twill 2-Fold 100, Linen and Oxford). The Journey Shirt collection is ideal for the gentleman who travels between meetings, cities and countries. Thankfully, Turnbull & Asser opted for a classically versatile colour palette. Shirts are available in an assortment of white, pink, lilac and blue. They also come in pattern variations of plain, check and stripe.
Turnbull & Asser tell us the inspiration for the collection was customers being able to move seamlessly from day to night. Imaging hopping off a plane, straight into a board meeting, followed by dinner. The requirement for a shirt that can see you through the day and night, without compromise is real. Who hasn’t been caught in between work and play, stuck with a boardroom shirt that doesn’t quite cut it style-wise after work. Turnbull & Asser have created a seriously transitional collection of shirting. As you’d expect, the quality is first class and by keeping the colour palette and design simple and classical the shirts will look great in any situation.
“When a project came up to clothe the senior executive team of The Ritz Hotel in Paris, we saw our opportunity to test the fabric in a hard-wearing working environment. Suffice to say, after two years, the shirts have been well-tested and have become loved enough for us to be confident in releasing them. The collection features a number of iconic patterns and cloths, designed to create the perfect travel-friendly wardrobe.” -Head of Design at Turnbull & Asser, Dean Gomilsek-Cole