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Lapis lazuli stone has been exploited for making objects, amulets, and jewels for thousands of years.

She was particularly appreciated by Egyptians who considered it a precious stone.

Timeless stone, it is still used in the fields of jewelry, jewelry, and watchmaking in our time.

Discover here some of our achievements of lapis lazuli jewelry, made in our workshop, custom orders highlighting the lapis lazuli rock.

This type of lapis lazuli stone jewelry is available for sale through our tailor-made creation service.

Lapis lazuli rings

Of all the combinations of stones possible for a ring, it seems normal to find lapis lazuli on the rings that we present here.

Lapis lazuli gold ring with diamond

18 karat yellow gold ring, custom cut lapis lazuli and round diamond of 2mm diameter set flush.

The pyrite bursts of stone here recall a starry sky highlighted by the brilliance of the central diamond.

You can see the making process of this ring here.

Lapis lazuli silver ring

Another example of a silver ring this time with just two small round cut cabochon stones set on the uprights of a silver corset ring.

This is an engagement silver ring set with zirconia and lapis lazuli cabochons, which making is detailed here.

Lapis lazuli men's ring

Signet sterling silver and lapis lazuli entirely made according to the creativity of the client.

This signet signifies a TVG on its tracks running its way around the finger.

Check here the making process of this ring.

Lapis lazuli pendants

Avec les bagues, les pendentifs sont très exposés au regard des autres et offrent donc un place de choix pour montrer les tons de bleu profond de la lapis lazuli.

Lapis lazuli yellow gold pendant

Pendant in 18K yellow gold adorned with 45 sapphires surrounding the figure 50, itself made of 5 parts of lapis lazuli cut especially for this project.

The round sapphires will be crimped while lapis lazuli will be integrated into the pendant by the cloisonné technique.

Lapis lazuli white gold necklace

18K white gold and natural lapis lazuli stone ladies pendant with a beautiful 3 mm diamond at the top. You will notice the bail totally invisible.




The following video shows you, in particular, the steps of cutting and shaping lapis lazuli stone mounted on this white gold pendant.

Fabrication collier lapis lazuli - YouTube
Lapis lazuli silver pendant

This is a silver pendant, also made of wood, gold, and stones.

You can see a lapis lazuli scarab set on the right side of this Egyptian Ankh cross.

Front view of the pendant showing all its details while hereafter, zoom on the scarab cut in a natural lapis lazuli gemstone.

Check here the whole making process of such a pendant.

Lapis lazuli bangle

Sterling silver bracelet made of three lapis lazuli cut to size in the rough rock.

This men's bangle is a massive piece consisting of a square section body articulated with a hinge to open it in two.

Fragments of lapis lazuli cut in rectangular shape adorn the upper part of the bracelet which is 10 millimeters wide.

 

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Lapis lazuli stone has been sought after to adorn princely rings and jewelery for thousands of years.

Its natural deep blue color has seduced men and women over the ages.

Used for over 7000 years by man, it is not surprising that it is still used to adorn jewelry.

The lapis lazuli stone is characterized by the sometimes presence of splinters of yellow pyrite which gives the impression of a milky way of gold flakes of the most beautiful effect.

Here are some lapis lazuli ring projects we made in our jewelry workshop.

Index
  1. Lapis lazuli men's ring
  2. Lapis lazuli gold ring with a solitaire diamond
  3. Lapis lazuli silver engagement ring
Lapis lazuli men's ring

Lapis lazuli gemstone is the ideal stone for men. It has a strong hue, it's inexpensive and easy to cut, to it is the perfect stone for any men looking for a large blue stone set on its ring.

For this project, we present the step by step creation process of a men signet ring set with a large lapis lazuli.

This is a train ring design, custom made for our client, a TGV (French bullet train) driver.

Lapis lazuli men's ring made through our online custom made service

The aim of the project is to represent a train type TGV ring.

The creation of the ring begins therefore by taking into account the customer drawing and the picture of the reference train to be reproduced.

Sketch of the project and picture of the train to be made on the ring

The ring is made of a ring representing the rails on which a stylized TGV is mounted.

On the latter is set a lapis lazuli stone whose blue color is obviously reminiscent of the real train.

Making of the silver ring

The project begins with a 3D modeling phase that allows us to virtually sculpt the shapes of our ring project.

With the virtual photos of the digital model, we get this rendering, close to the future real rendering.

Rendering view of the silver ring project with the lapis lazuli stone on it

Once this design is validated by the project sponsor, we can launch the physical manufacture of the signet ring.

The 3D printing process allows us to physically obtain in resin our ring which was until now virtual.

The signet ring consists of two pieces, the ring-shaped rail and the train.

Then, by the lost-wax casting process, we make a refractory plaster mold in which the molten silver is then cast, thus allowing us to obtain the pieces of our silver ring.

Rough silver parts after the casting process

The pieces are then deburred and then retouched and pre-polished before being assembled by soldering.

Welding of the silver ring parts

At this point, we can start the cutting work of lapis lazuli stone.

Cutting the lapis lazuli stone

For this big job, we start from a blog of raw lapis lazuli.

Three qualities of stones are possible, we will choose the best, the one presenting a deep blue with few incrustations of pyrites (on the left of the photo).

See 3 different grades of lapis lazuli stone with the best grade on the left

To cut the stone, we use a diamond disc mounted on micro motor and regularly cool the stone in water, which also serves as a lubricant for cutting.

Cutting the lapis with diamond cutting saw
taille pierre lapis lazuli - YouTube
Video showing the lapis lazuli cutting process

The stone is cut and set in place.

Setting the stone on the men's silver ring

First cut the edges of the stone to ensure its fit in its location and then stick it in place.

Then we retouch the upper part by cutting and polishing successively to give it the desired curvature.

 Finishing to cut the stone once set in place on the ring

Finishing the ring

The silver ring and the lapis lazuli stone are polished.

View of the ring after polishing of the ring and the stone

In order to bring out the details of the train, the ring is oxidized to blacken the silver.

The last polishing makes it possible to bring out the brilliance of the silver leaving only the blackened hollows, which makes it possible to appreciate at best the hollows and reliefs of the model of TGV.

See the details of the train design highlighted by the oxidized silver

Lateral view of the men's ring showing the rail and the train

Lapis lazuli gold ring with diamond

This next project is a lapis lazuli gold ring for women with a solitaire diamond set in the center of the lapis lazuli stone.

This is 6 grams 18k gold ring measuring 13 mm large with a 2 mm HSI white diamond on its center et flush.

This is another custom made ring project.

Front view of the lapis lazuli gold ring showing the lapis lazuli and the central diamond

At the origin of the project, our client wanted to associate lapis lazuli stone with a diamond on a gold mount.

His choice fell on a lapis lazuli stone studded with pyrite to obtain the effect of a starry sky.

Natural lapis lazuli stone with pyrite incrustation

The design of our client is then modeled in CAD in order to become a part of her project.

Photo rendering of the ring project before starting the making

At this point, the project can be validated by the customer and then started in manufacturing by starting with the 3D printing of our wax model.

3D wax model of the ring made with a 3D printer

Gold making

Then the melting operation, during which the molten gold is poured into the mold made with our wax master.

Allowing us to get the raw cast metal ring.

Rough gold ring after casting process

The ring is then cleaned, deburred and the lapis lazuli stone is cut and shaped in order to fit better to its housing in the ring.

Picture showing the lapis lazuli stone ready to be fitted on the gold ring

Then the diamond can be crimped into place at the center of the ring.

It is a small diamond of 2 millimeters diameter HSI quality.

View of the diamond in the middle of the ring before setting the lapis lazuli stone in place

We can now put the lapis lazuli stone and polish the final ring.

View from beneath showing the gold basket under the stone with geometric shapes

View of the ring on the jeweler's workbench

Lapis lazuli silver engagement ring

This project is a lapis lazuli ring made as an engagement ring. It is made of silver and set with small zirconia and small cabochons of natural lapis lazuli stones.

Silver engagement ring showing both lapis lazuli cabochons

Design of the ring

This is a corset ring set with 50 1mm white zirconia on both sides, 6 1mm turquoise zirconia on the center and two lapis lazuli cabochon on the sides.

 Rendering view of the computerized design of the ring custom made through our online service

Making of the ring 

As for the other project, once the design is frozen by our client, the ring is 3D printed in wax and cast in silver.

The rough silver ring is then polished and the stones set in place and the inner mesh of the ring is oxidized in black.

 

 

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The eagle is a mythological animal, used since the time of the Egyptians to symbolize the power of the gods or mysticism.

Chosen by the Romans, the Byzantines, Napoleon, the Russians empire or even the Nazis as an emblem to symbolize the power of their empire, the eagle, like the lion, is used in heraldry for family seals.

Even today, the eagle is used by the USA, Poland, and Mexico as an emblem of their nation.

Here you will find a detailed explanation of the symbolism of the heraldic eagle.

The men signet rings presented here are custom made in gold or silver for our clients following their requirement. Their creation is being described hereafter.

You can discover more about our custom made ring service here.

Gold eagle ring for men Eagle signet ring using a family emblem

This is a ring we had the opportunity to make both in white and yellow 18k gold, as you can see.

For this project, we started from the emblem drawing of our client to make a 3D modeling of his eagle design on the plateau of the signet ring.

Eagle family emblem used for this gold ring making

The reduction in size makes that one loses details of the drawing. To give an order of idea, the letters of the text will ultimately only a millimeter in height.

We also retouched the ends of the banner where the text is written to simplify the design which was not very visible once embossed.

We thus obtain a virtual sketch that allows us to have a good idea of the final rendering of our project.

Following this first phase, synthesizing the needs of the customer and what we can do in terms of details, the design is frozen to go into manufacturing workshop.

First, we print a wax master of the future ring which will then be used to make the mold in which the gold will be poured. We can see here drafts of the plate of the signet ring and realize the rendering of the engraving in relief of the drawing.

3D print tests of the signet ring top

You may notice that the engraved text remains readable despite the smallness of the letters.

Then we go to the actual manufacturing, we use our master to make a plaster mold in which is cast our molten gold.

here is the ring after the finishing process.

View of the eagle molded on top of the gold signet ring

Double-headed gold ring with diamonds

This is a larger men eagle ring project featuring a double-headed eagle made of both white and yellow 18k gold.

This ring is much bigger, much heavier and set with 84 small diamonds and 1 main princess cut diamond on the top.

Vivalatina's gold eagle ring

This ring is from our gold signet ring collection so we will not detail the design, just the making process, quite a time consuming, of this ring.

Made of gold

Like the precedent ring, this one is design with CAD software and the 4 parts of the ring are the 3D printed before making each part in 18k gold.

This ring is made in yellow gold for the eagle and inner ring and in white gold for the external body of the ring and the plate under the eagle.

Here you can see those part rough from the casting process.

Here, those parts are being welded together.

Although the assembling process of the ring is quite long, the main task for this ring lies in setting the numerous diamonds on it.

Set with diamonds

These are 84 small diamonds coming in 4 different sizes that are set in place and the main princess cut diamond at the end.

Once finished and shiny 

Once polished, this ring unveils its white and yellow gold shine mixed with the diamonds' lights.

Silver eagle ring

This other project is custom made from the drawing made by our client.

On this custom made eagle ring, you will notice the initial V and the laurel on each side of the eagle.

This ring was made from this drawing send to us.

From this patchwork, we were able to make the numeric model for this project, as shown hereunder.

With computerized rending tools, we have a better idea of the finish aspect of this ring once made in silver.

We 3D printed this model in wax for making this ring in sterling silver using the lost wax casting process to obtain the rough silver part visible here.

Once polished and the silver oxidized to darken the metal, we can appreciate the final result.

 

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If there is an institution that uses badges, it is the Army.

The next project is the reproduction of a badge of the 8 ° BPC (Colonial Parachute Battalion) on a ring-type ring.

It takes the insignia of this unit mounted on an oval plate 21 by 18 millimeters, which is large enough to fully represent all the details of this military parachutist insignia.

This is a large signet ring, not by the ring size here of 63, but by the size of the tray much larger than usual.

The badge of 8 ° PBC silver on the ring tray, the oxidation of silver highlights the details of the drawing

The design

The project starts with taking into account the reference design. Unlike what we are used to, it is not a drawing but a photo of a real badge.

Knowing the size of the finger, the board and with the reference drawing, we can then begin the 3D modeling of our ring.

This is to carve the design of the ring to stay as faithful as possible to our badge.

The badge is then carved in CAD with computer tools in order to reproduce it at first and then integrate it on the plateau of the ring.

Here is an overview of the virtual rendering of the digital model.

Numeric model of the military ring project showing the military unit badge

Making the ring

Once the design of the project has been validated by the client as meeting his expectations, the digital model is produced in resin by the process of 3D printing.

The physical resin ring obtained can then be used to make a refractory plaster mold in which the molten silver will be cast by the lost wax melting process.

Wax model of the custom military ring project

We then have to retouch the details, then polish the ring to get this final result.

It seems easy to say but we must manually take all the details to give them the final polishing giving the shiny rendering of the metal.

 

Silver military ring in its box, ready to ship

Here are some other exemples of silver military rings, custom made or vintage:

 

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The making of a ring with a coin is a piece of classic jewelry.

Whatever the time or the country, there are relics or ancient gold or silver coin mounted on rings.

These coins can be mounted or crimped or be bent in order to partially compose the ring body.

Still today in France, many people custom made rings with gold coins called Louis d'or, or Napoléon coins that have historical value as well as pecuniary. While in the US, people are looking for eagle or Mexican gold coin to be mounted on a ring.

Men gold coin ring in 18k gold, custom made through our online service

As we will see in this article, the project that follows, we describe the creation of a men's ring surmounted by a relief engraving taken from the coat of arms of Portugal present on a Portuguese coin struck in 1948.

Ring design from vintage gold coin

Our ring design is that of a simple signet ring topped with the embossed copy of the face of an old Portuguese coin.

This is a silver coin while the project of the ring is solid yellow 18k gold. Because it is not possible for us to mount the piece on the ring, we will have to reproduce the pattern.

We then use the computer tool to create a 3D modeling of the ring showing the engraving of the face of the piece by making a modification to the date of 1948 replaced by 1984.

Numeric model of the men's coin ring project

This virtual mock-up allows us to modify the source design at the same time and to ensure that the final rendering is fully in line with the expectations of the project sponsor.

Rendering view of the gold coin ring project before making

Once the design is validated, we can start the physical manufacture of our ring by the 3D printing process to obtain a resin model of our ring.

Wax model of the coin ring before the casting process

Gold making of the ring

In possession of the resin physical model of our ring project, we can move to the lost wax casting stage.

A refractory plaster mold is created, containing our resin model. The latter is then burned out in order to sublimate the resin model which leaves a hollow space in the mold.

The molten yellow gold is then poured into the mold, the liquid gold then occupying the space left vacant by our resin model.

This video shows the steps of this process.

fonte a la cire perdue - YouTube

This process allows us to obtain our raw gold ring in accordance with the digital design and physical model obtained by 3D printing.

Gold coin ring after the casting process, note the rough state of gold

As you can see in this picture, we can see on the cast rough ring all the details of the coat of arms of Portugal visible on the reference coin shown at the beginning of the article.

Starts then the detailing process and the polishing of the ring and details of the engraving on the plate.

Front view of the coin molded on top of the gold ring

Gold coin ring wore on the ring finger

 

Here are some examples of manufacturing of gold rings with engravings of blazons, medals, coats of arms or seals made in our workshop:

 

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For men with big hands and therefore a large finger size, it is often difficult to find online or in jewelry stands, rings or signet rings adapted to their measurement.

We generally speak about large size finger or plus size ring for size US 12 or bigger, which correspond to a European size of EEC 68.

It is, therefore, necessary for some customers to use our service to get a custom made ring that fits their finger size.

If you are unsure about your own finger size, this article will show you how to measure your ring size.

If you're not sure which finger will wear your ring, this article will help you find our the best finger that suits you to wear your signet ring.

Over time, we had the opportunity to make several personalized signet rings for sizes of EEC 70, 72, 74 and 82 which range from US 13 to US 16.

Making large size rings for men

If for our customers a large ring is just a ring a little larger, the thing is more complicated for the jeweler.

Indeed, a large ring implies that the ring mandrel usually used by the jeweler is not big enough to measure the ring size.

In fact, standard stubbles can measure ring sizes up to a ring size of 68.

Two ring mandrels, at the bottom the normal one, upside, the large size mandrel ring

For sizes beyond 68, it is necessary to have a specific ring mandrel adapted to large finger size as shown in the previous picture.

Ring sizing from US 12 to US 16

Here they are:

Large amethyst signet ring for men sizing US 15, see here how we made this ring

 Gold onyx ring for men in size US 13 with two HSI white diamonds from our signet ring collection

 Large onyx stone set on a gold signet ring sizing US 13, also from our collection

Custom made signet ring in silver and 18k gold sizing US 12, discover here the step by step process used to make this ring

Men silver ring with 18k gold monogram sizing large with US 13 size

Lion's head large silver ring for men sizing US 16.

Even on my thumb, this ring looks much bigger than my finger.

 

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The engraving of his initials is a common and practical operation to personalize his signet ring.

These are the men who by far prefer the initial signs engraved with two or three letters on the board. This engraving can be done hollow or embossed on silver or gold.

When to make a gift, you are looking for a custom signet design different from the models of signet ring for men that we propose in our collection, the making of an engraved signet ring personalizes the jewel by making it unique.

Associated with the choice of the design of the signet ring and the decoration of the amounts of the ring, anyone can design his own signet ring of a unique style, as you can see through our articles presented at the end of this article.

We suggest you to discover different styles of initial signs made in silver or gold in our jewelry workshop.

Index
  1. Monogram silver ring
  2. 18k initial signet ring
  3. Silver men's ring with 18k gold monogram
Monogram silver ring

The signet presented here is in sterling silver 950, oval-shaped it takes the design debossed with the initials of the sponsor.

We will present you the various stages of the manufacture in order to transfer his ideas of the paper on the plate of the signet ring.

Monogram design

The initials of the pattern we are interested in are JPF written in the form of anagrams that allow to read them in an identical way regardless of the meaning of the signet ring on the finger.

Having provided us with its design drawing file, we took it back with computer tools to make it perfectly symmetrical, to obtain the following result.

The drawing is then used to make a 3D CAD modeling of the signet that you can discover on the following views.

Very realistic, this modeling gives a good overview of the final result to the sponsor and estimate precisely the work and the amount of money needed to make the ring.

Once the design has been validated by the sponsor, we can proceed to the actual manufacturing by producing the 3D printing of the signet ring.

This piece of wax is then used to make a mold that allows us to get the piece in solid silver, by pouring molten silver into the mold.

We can then appreciate the final result.

Here are some other examples of initial signs for men in silver:

White gold initial signet ring

White gold is very popular lately for making initial signet rings for men.

This is a fashion phenomenon certainly.

The white gold is sober and more original than the yellow gold which traditionally was used for the making of rings engraved with initials and the signs with family coat of arms.

Most of the time, jewelery stores offer few customization options for engraving initials on a ring.

In this case, we will see that it is precisely possible to vary the font of the engraving initials, but also to play on the design of the tray of the signet ring.

18k white gold signet ring engraved with owner's initials

Initials' font

In most cases, it is not possible to choose his writing font for engraving intial on your signet board.

This restriction is due to technical considerations if the engraving is made or hand-engraved, engraved by strawberry or by some other method.

In the case of this signet ring, our client chooses two different fonts for the letters:

  • Edwardian script font for the V
  • Vladimir Script font for the G

Font of the initials that will be engraved on the signet ring's top

In our case, our process limited us to the thickness of the line of letters, sometimes reaching less than 0.1 millimeters wide.

Therefore we retouched this design to get bold letters giving us the opportunity to engrave the letters on the ring tray.

Numeric modelization of the signet ring engraved by two initials

Ring's top design

If you have browsed the web during your survey, you have certainly noticed that there are few different designs for the signet ring.

This is because historically, the signet rings were used to bear the seal of a family engraved on the plateau of the ring, which could be round, oval or square.

Can matter the form of the tray, the engraved weapons being the element of value of the signet ring.

Today, the signet ring is most of the time an ornamental jewel, so many try to personalize not only the engraving of the tray, but also the body of the ring.

That's why for this project, our client chose a form in ecu for the ring tray, form little used and differentiating this ring from the others.

Ring's top view with engraved initials

Making of the gold signet ring

We used 3D printing to make a plastic master of the ring.

This master was then used to make a mold for manufacturing by the method of cast iron lost wax.

See the rough engraving during the making process of the ring

In the photo, we notice the color of unpolished white gold that looks rather gray, the shape of the tray and the finesse engraving.

White gold takes on a very light gray color as a result of polishing the ring.

It is then plated with rhodium to give it the very bright white aspect characteristic of white gold jewelry (read this article on gold rhodium).

White gold initial signet ring wore on the ring finger

Here are some other examples of initial rings custom made in 18k gold in our workshop:


Silver men's ring with 18k gold monogram

For some large signet ring designs, it can be very expensive to make the ring entirely in 18K gold.

In this case, choosing a silver ring body with just the initial letters engraved in yellow gold can be the solution to create a cool style effect and stick to your budget.

To learn more about the cost factors of a signet ring, this article will inform you.

Silver ring with 18k gold monogram made through our custom ring service
Ring's design
The design is divided into two elements, the ring which is manufactured on one side in silver 925 and the initials A and T nested which are manufactured separately in 18k gold.

This CAD presentation shows the draft of the ring before fabrication and the rendering given by the computer during the design phase of the project.

Sketch of the ring's project

The ring consists of a simple ring with raised edges widening at the top to receive the gold initial.

Photo rendering of the project

Rendering of the finished ring

The digital model is used in the manufacturing phase to print (by 3D printing) our resin ring, which is then used to make the silver ring by the lost wax casting process.

In parallel, the letters are cut with a saw in a laminated 18-karat yellow gold plate.

Following the separate manufacture of the two parts, they are welded to one another.

View of the assembly of the initials in gold on the silver ring body after polishing the ring.

Check the gold monogram on top of the silver ring body

The last modification made at the request of our client was to brush the money to give it a dull aspect so that the initials in gold stand out better.

On this view, we notice the internal engraving of a date in addition to the punches 925 for the silver of the ring body and 18k for the gold of the initial.

In the same style, here is another example of an initial ring whose ring body is in 14 karat yellow gold and whose initials are in silver:

 

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The style and type of engraving is what makes one's signet ring's soul.

Most often, signet rings are made of a classic shaped ring (round, square, oval...) with a flat engraved top.

But it is possible to be much more creative if you aim for a custom signet ring design.

Here, we will make you discover the different types of engraving that can be done in our workshop on a signet ring, both on the central plateau and on the sides of the ring, in silver or 18k gold.

INDEX

  1. Intaglio: deep engraving
  2. 3D Molded engraving
  3. Different engraving techniques
  4. Engraving cost
  5. Custom engraving service
Intaglio engraving on signet rings

For the silver signet rings, the intaglio engraving is easily highlighted by oxidizing the silver, offering a strong black-on-white contrast that enhances the design of the engraving.

Rings engraved only on the top

This signet ring shows us an engraved design highlighted by oxidation of silver in the engraving.

The drawing and monogram deep engraved and oxidized contrast with polished silver

The same principle is applied to this design, the top also with a large surface engraved.

Crest engraved on the signet ring's top

On this signet ring oval, there is a hollow engraving but also relief elements in the middle of the circular engraved area around the initial M of the family to which this coat of arms belongs.

Discover the creation of this signet ring project here

This other project shows an engraving with wide letters and clipping, the engraving background being here again oxidized.

Deep engraving of initials, oxidized in black

This principle of intaglio engraving is also applicable on solid gold signet rings.

Oxidation of gold is not possible, the background of the engraving is left bare or blackened with enamel or resin as we will see later.

18k white gold signet ring with initials engraved

Side engraving of signet rings

The signet rings are often large rings, with amounts offering a beautiful space, it is tempting to take the opportunity to decorate other engravings, as shown by these projects.

This signet shows us an engraving on the central plate and two identical engravings on each of the amounts of the ring.

This other example of a signet ring shows us a large surface engraved in depth on the plate and a symbol engraved on the side.

Each side of the ring is engraved with custom symbols

The principle is identical for gold signet rings, the one presented below shows an engraving of a hollowed heraldic lion as well as engravings of initials on the sides.

The hollows are blackened with resin, ensuring a beautiful contrast on rhodium white gold.

White 18k gold engraved with a heraldic lion on the top and initials on each side, note you can choose your preferred font for your custom made signet ring

Molded engravings

For relief engravings, several options are possible depending on whether the choice is on a signet of a single metal or two-tone.

In the case of a signet ring made of a single metal, the reliefs will be molded as shown in these examples:

This signet has a relief molding with intaglio engravings on the sides of the ring.

We detail here how we made this biker ring with skull engraving

Another example with this bandeau signet ring whose entire circumference is engraved in relief

Or this championship signet ring that has intaglio engravings and moldings engraved in 3D

Details of this creation are available here

The same is true for gold signet rings with intricate designs, as shown by this signet engraved with a relief eagle.

This signet ring with a lily flower molding on the board.

As regards rings with embossed or two-tone initials, the etching can be performed by saw cutting, the product of this cut is then attached to the ring and welded in place as shown in these examples:

This signet ring with the SNCF logo reported cut and welded on a solid silver band ring.

Molded monogram in 18k yellow gold on the top of the ring while both sides are intaglio engraved on the silver

This Celtic ring follows the same principle with a decoration on the top and side plate 18k gold cut and welded in place.

The same applies to rings with welded initials:

Sterling silver ring with initials in 18k yellow gold

Same principle for this silver signet ring decorated with diamond, ruby and sapphire.

 

Different signet rings engraving style

When we talk about engraving, we must specify what we are talking about.

Indeed, there are different types of engravings and different techniques to achieve, each with its advantages and disadvantages and a cost of its own.

Heraldic engraving

Traditionally, the engraving of signet rings (heraldic art) is handmade by specialized craftsmen: master engravers.

They work with a magnifying glass with sharp tools that allow them to chip the metal to create an intaglio engraving following the client's crest.

The pros:

  • engraving can be done on metal or stone
  • it is the most beautiful engraving, deep, durable and offering a secular historical heritage
  • The engraving can be extremely fine (it is done with a magnifying glass)

The cons:

  • This is the most expensive technique
  • engraving is usually only available in hollow
  • the artisans only work forged signet rings, which limits the choice of signet designs.

Some French craftsmen offer their online service for this type of engraving:

Mechanical engraving

It is an engraving made by a machine, either at the diamond point or by means of a laser. This allows for elaborate and personalized engravings.

The pros:

  • this type of engraving is very economical
  • it's the perfect option for a serial job

The cons:

  • the metal is only scratched in area, so the engraving is not deep
  • Many online stores offer this service when you buy a silver signet ring of classic design.
CAD engraving

This is the technique we use in our Vivalatina workshop.

A digital model of the ring is made on a computer, allowing us to reproduce both intaglio, embossed and moldings.

The gold or silver signet ring is then obtained by a melting process.

 


The pros:

  • It is a versatile technique adapted to almost any engraving design
  • Leave a total choice of the style of the ring
  • Allows engraving intaglio and in 3D relief

The cons:

  • modern technique lacking the history of hand engraving
  • the fineness of the details is as small as 0.3 mm while the hand engraving descent below 0,1 millimeter
Engraving costs 

As you have seen, the cost of an engraved signet ring depends :

  • on the metal (silver, 14k or 18k gold)
  • how many engravings you need for your signet ring design
  • Who (which shop) does your engraving

For our own jewelry workshop, here are our starting prices:

  • From $500 USD for a silver signet ring
  • From $1000 USD for an 18k signet ring

Of course, those signet ring prices depend on your ring size, the mass of gold and the complexity of your signet ring design.

Custom engraving service

If you're thinking about designing your own signet ring, you should have a look at this presentation of dozens of signet ring designs made in our workshop.

You can check our custom ring service here or contact us from this online form.

 

More information:

 

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Yellow gold is the most desired of the precious metal in jewelry, because of the heat of its glare, it has no equal.

Most family rings or signet rings are in 18-karat gold, but it is normal for exceptional jewels or signet rings that will remain for generations in the family to want a gold of the highest purity, of 24 karats.

Precision, 24-karat gold is necessarily yellow since it is not mixed with any other metal likely to change its color.

So there is no chance to find 24 karats white gold, pink or black gold. The only way to change 24k gold color if plating it with white or black rhodium.

24 karats gold nugget, check the color so characteristic of pure gold

24k gold ring with a black diamond set flush, from our collection

Here are some examples of men's signet ring from our vivalatina's collection.

 
Defining pure gold and how to obtain 24k gold

Pure gold is an ideal theoretical gold.

It is also called fine gold or 24 karats gold. For the definition of gold karat, I refer you to this article on the subject.

Gold is usually mined mixed with other metals, so to obtain pure gold, rough godl nuggets are refined through an industrial process.

Miller's industrial process is the most widely used and it allows to obtain a 99.5% pure gold or a 23.88 karat gold.

Another process known as Wohwill since was set up in Canada, the latter allows to obtain a 99.999% pure gold (also called gold 5-9).

Legally in France, the pure gold title is given to bullion whose purity is at least 99.5% which is 23,88 karat once converted in karat purity grade.

Pure gold in jewelry

Pure gold is little used in jewelry for the manufacture of conventional jewelry.

Moreover, you will see that we do not find jewelry, rings, and chains in 24 karat gold in the trade for the reasons that we will detail below.

Jewelers produce pure gold when they refine gold from production waste.

Used gold bound to be refined, it comes in different colors and gold purity

Collecting gold for 10k, 14k or 18k, in different colors, it is advisable to reuse this gold to refine it to obtain a single pure gold ingot which can then be reused as needed to produce gold. 14k gold, 18k or 22k to choose.

Drawbacks of 24k gold for rings making

So why do not we find 24ct gold jewelry on sale in jewelers?

It's very simple, pure gold is capricious.

Polishing

Although its reflections are seductive, it is extremely difficult to polish. While pure raw gold has a particularly bright reflection naturally, it is very difficult to get a good polishing of a ring or other jewel in 24-carat gold.

And if that were not enough, 24-karat gold is very malleable.

Fragility

And so it folds and breaks easily for small sections of gold wire.

As a result, most of the fine and delicate designs of modern women's rings would not stand up to the abuse (bumps, scratches, and snags) that a classic ring experiences.

Only designs of simple rings or signet rings, massive, without fine parts or claws can bear to be made in 24 karat gold.

Thin gold ring damaged

Example of a 24 karat gold ring, you will notice the simple, massive design and the thick body to overcome the ductility of pure gold

Here you will find our models of solid gold signet rings, some of which are available in 20 and 22 karat gold.

24-carat gold rings are subject to a lot of distortion over time and even the opinion of people with such rings (available here), 22-karat gold is a more durable choice than 24-carat gold.

Another notable incoherence, due to its fragility, many jewelers will refuse to repair your ring in pure gold, for fear of breaking the ring instead of repairing it.

 
Custom ring designs

As you can see, 24-karat gold imposes certain constraints on your ring or signet projects.

On the one hand, you will have to turn to a custom-made service for your project because there is very little (or no) offer on the market.

And it will adapt the design of the ring and the care provided to the jewel when you wear it.

Alternatives to 24k gold

To circumvent these constraints, it is always possible to make a choice of 20k or 22k gold ring.

These gold alloys offer a higher gold content than the classic 18 karats but do not worry about polishing, as you can see with this 22 karat gold pendant.

Of course, 20k gold and 22k remain more malleable than 18k gold but offer because of their greater strength more freedom of design for the making of a ring than 24 karat gold.

 

More information:

 

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Biker clubs always have their emblem, worn as well on their leather jacket, tattooed on the body or worn proudly engraved on a jewel.

In this case, this is a silver biker ring that receives the logo of the club, the sponsor belonging to a French motorcycle club.

Their emblem depicts a custom pirate style skull with crossbones and a pirate headband on one of the skull's orbits.

Skull emblem to be molded on the silver ring

For this skull biker ring, the design was a little complex; the skull and its details had to be molded in 3D like an antique low relief, the head and the bones had to be realistic.

We will detail here the stages of the manufacture of this ring which is massive and quite heavy.

Making of the silver biker ring

Finished silver biker ring made from the skull emblem of the biker club, made through our custom made service

The design of the ring includes a 3D sculpture of the logo on the square top of the ring and a deep engraving of initials in Gothic letters on each side of the ring uprights.

Our work begins with the realization of a 3D CAD model of the ring project that will validate the design with the sponsor. This step allows us to validate the dimensions, the volumes and the proportions of the different elements engraved with respect to each other.

It is at this stage that we really move from the project phase to a materialization of the future ring.

Numeric design of the men's biker ring

The advantage of the computer tool is that one can already have an idea of the final rendering of the ring even before its manufacture.

This permits us to avoid any design error between what our client wants and what we understand we have to make.

 Rendering  of the ring in sterling silver

Once the design is validated, we can then go to the actual manufacture of the ring.

First, a resin model is made with a 3D printer from the CAD file previously produced.

This resin ring will allow us to create a refractory plaster mold in which the molten silver will be poured in order to obtain our silver ring.

 The rough silver casting of the ring showing the lateral initials engravings

The ring is then deburred, the details retouched then the ring is polished and blackened to bring out the details of the design (the hollow letters and the dressing).

And gets this final result:

View from different angles of the details of the silver ring with the embossed pirate skull and the blackened Gothic hollowed letters

More skull ring design for men

Hereunder are presented different custom skull ring designs we had the opportunity to create in our jewelry workshop.

 

More information:

 

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