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“V”- NECKED TOP

After a set of jackets for child and adult, here’s a nice top to complement the set. 
Today we’ll work on a “V”-necked top that is worked from the chest up (for yoke) and then from the chest down (for body) .. so its both a top up and top down construction !

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this to any size. Just pay attention to the stitch count, and please read through all my detailed instructions.
Come along, let’s work on this beautiful creation together.

Oh, in case you have just joined me here, do check under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog for my earlier patterns.  They are categorized for easy access.

Then do follow me here on my blog, via Pinterest or on Facebook for your convenience.  I try to post at least one blog a day, so let’s have lots of fun.
The simplest and fastest way to get my older creations is via my Pinterest link, and then of course follow my via my various social media handles for all future posts. Cheers.


Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 225 gms of Sullivans cotton (Australia) knitting cotton with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians :The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Anchor knitting cotton.  Our lovely Indian Red rose knitting cotton, White rose knitting cotton , Pony cotton as well as Laura yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians :Among the other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons. 

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 34” (M/L)
This is only given to you to get a general idea of how much yarn you may need.  
The yarn you require will depend on the size you’re making it to as well as the tension of your work

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate Skill level. 

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-starting-chain-to-knot-or-not/

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet                            ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                              sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                        hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                       sc : Single crochet
trc : Treble / Triple crochet



Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.

For this pattern we will start at the chest, just under the bust, and work up towards the armhole, neck and shoulders. 
We will then come back to this start line and work down for the length of the top.

You can make this to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right.  Please read through all the detailed instructions before you pick up your hook.


The stitch count for our pattern is in multiples of 6 + 1

Start : with fsc in multiples of 6 + 1 for half the round chest measure.  Turn.

Note :As I have stated several times before, check which is the larger measure – round chest, round bust, round waist – and use the largest measure for ease of wear.  With this pattern, if you are going to keep the neckline deep, then you will have ease for the upper part of the body anyway.  Pay attention to the shape of the pattern as well as the shape of your body when working any pattern.

There are small tricks for shaping that I will give you just after the pattern instructions.  In case your chest (which is measured just below the largest round of the bust – i.e tape measure around bust point) and bust measures are not too far apart, then these small alterations are not needed.  But in case you want a really fitted top, then pay attention to the ideas given below.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ;
(sk next 2 fsc, 5 dc in the next fsc ; sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) till end.  Turn.

In the following row, we will use the same stitch all through.
For convenience, let’s call this our “V”-st, which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st)
Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till end.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till end.  Turn.

and this is our pattern all the way to the armholes and neckline. 
Easy peasy, right?
Rep Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the armhole, ending with a Row 3.

Now for the increase ideas.
If you can see in the chart, they have added dc at each end of the rows all the way to the armhole.  So that’s what I’d do too.  I will still suggest that you should use the larger measure between waist, chest and bust to start – but as we have this little increase tweak here, and it will be ‘invisible and hidden’ under the arm, I’d say go for it, as you will get a really lovely fitted garment.

Before you increase, please read what I’ve said for decrease ideas.

Increase Row 1 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
(5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till last dc ; 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.
This is rep of Row 3 with an increase.

Increase Row 2 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till the last 2 dc ; dc in the last 2 dc.  Turn.

Increase Row 3 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
(5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till last 3 dc ;
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.
This is, once again, rep of Row 3 with an increase.

Increase Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till the last 3 dc ;
dc in the next dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Increase Row 5 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; sk ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc ;
(5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till last 2 dc and ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next dc ; sk next ch-1 sp,  dc in the last dc.  Turn.
This is, once again, rep of Row 3 with an increase.

This completes our increases.  You should be at the armhole, and we will need to decrease a little – and here are the ideas again.
I have always said that for a good fit, please keep a well fitting garment as a template and I’ll say that again.  This is an easy pattern and you can do a damned good job here – so use all the templates that you can!

Decrease ideas :
Note here that when I talk about decrease, I am going exactly per the original pattern and there are no increases made.. so these instructions are like you have ended with the original Row 3.
In case you have made any increases, don’t panic .. this is an easy pattern.

So what are we doing here?  We just need a slight shape for the armhole.
We will decrease about 5 sts in the first row of decrease and then shape from there.  So in case you have more stitches on the side, just keep decreasing the same number of stitches and keep the pattern going.  It does not matter if you are at a different stitch from the instructions here.. as long as you have a shaped decrease, and you have the pattern coming along, you’re doing great!

There is an armhole shaping for both front and back, and there is a neckline shaping for the front.
I did not shape a neckline for the back – so it goes all the way to the top with just a neatly shaped armhole.  If you decide to shape back, try to copy what we are doing for the front.  Innovate and create something different.

These instructions are just for armhole shaping.  When shaping for the front, you will combine armhole and neckline shaping on the same row.
You decidehow deep you want the neckline and work accordingly.

Row 1 decrease : sl-st past the 1st 4 sts ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till the last 6 sts ;
dc 2-tog over in the 6th & 5th st from end (leave last 4 sts unworked).  Turn.
(This is the same pattern as Row 2)

Row 2 decrease : dc in the 1st st ; sk next dc and ch-1 sp , dc in the next st ;
(5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till last 2 dc and ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next dc ; sk next ch-1 sp,  dc in the last dc.  Turn.
(This is the same pattern as Row 3)

Row 3 decrease : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sts ;
sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till the last 2 sts ;
dc 2-tog over in the last 2 dc.  Turn.
(This is the same pattern as Row 2)

Row 4 decrease : 3 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
(5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till last ch-1 sp ;
3 dc in the last ch-1 sp.  Turn.
(This is the same pattern as Row 3)

This completes our decreases. As you have seen, we are just using the same two pattern rows – so while the body of the pattern has not changed, the start and ends have – so I will rewrite that bit again, and for convenience am going to call these our armhole rows.

Armhole Row 1 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till the last 3 sts ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc.  Turn.
(This is the same pattern as Row 2)

Armhole Row 2 : 3 dc in the 1st dc ; sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till last dc ;
sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the last dc.  Turn.
(This is the same pattern as Row 3)

Work armhole Rows 1 & 2 till you reach the shoulders. 

For the front, I shaped a “V”-neckline.  The first decrease is worked in the centre of the project on pattern original Row 3 , where you work the 5-dc on the pattern row.
As mentioned before, you decide when you want to shape your neckline.  To start, place a marker in the centre stitch of the 5-dc set (so its even on both sides).

So what happens if your centre stitch for the top is not the 5-dc set but just a dc?
Nothing much.  You will still place your marker in that dc, and use the ideas given below to work your shaping.
Remember like I have said countless times, use a template.  So first take a well fitting top and draw out the shape of the neckline you want on paper.  Place this paper draft on top of your well fitting top, and you have an idea of where your crochet top is headed.  Got it?

Neckline shaping ideas :
Neckline shaping Row 1 : (starting armhole end)
3 dc in the 1st dc ; sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till 2 dc before marked st ;
sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in the marked dc.  Turn.
(This is the same pattern as Row 3)
You now are working only one side of your project from neckline to armhole and back.

Neckline Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; sk next 2 dc, dc in the next
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till the last 3 sts ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc.  Turn.
(This is the same pattern as Row 2)

Neckline shaping Row 3 : 3 dc in the 1st dc ; sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
(5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till the last 2 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.  Turn.
(This is the same pattern as Row 3)

And here’s where it gets more fun and innovative. 
Use the shaping ideas above to make it as deep and wide as you want. 
Just remember to keep notes of what you are doing this side to mirror it again.  Also keep checking against your templates. 
Remember that when checking, pat and flatten down your work – do not stretch it.  Go ahead.. have fun creating.

Repeat whatever you have done this end for the other side of the front too.

Lower half of our top
Now that we are done with one back and one neatly “V” shaped front, let’s work on the lower half of our top.

This is really easy.  So flip your work such that you are working on the underside of the first fsc row with your work facing the right side up.
Now if you start on the wrong side of the work it does not matter because we are working from side to side.. so both sides are right!
We are going to continue working the same pattern, which you know perfectly well by now, but we will switch our rows (numbering-wise). 

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ;
(ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc ; ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc)
rep (to) till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till end.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc)
rep (to) till end.  Turn.

See, same pattern .. different row numbering.
Continue rep of Rows 2 & 3 till you have the length needed for your top.

Finishing ideas :
1.        Join the shoulders and sides.  
2.      To work a border : Run 2 rows of sc all around the neckline and armhole. 
3.      Remember when working with sc, you will work 2 sc in each vertical bar of the dc and 1 sc per chain space.
4.     If you’d like run a row of ch-3 sps all around the armhole and neckline. If you decide on this : sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc) ; rep (to) till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
5.      You could choose to run a row of ch-3 sps and picot as well.  If you decide on picot, I’d say work a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk)
6.     For a ch-3 picot on the ch-3 sps : sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 5, sl-st in the 4thch from hk ; ch 1, sk next sc along armhole/neckline, sc in the next sc) ; rep (to) all till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

More ideas
1.        With this beautiful creation, if you make it short then you get a neat off the shoulder cropped top as well.
2.      Divide the front into two halves and make yourself a snazzy jacket too.  You will work the neckline decrease pattern for the front, dividing at the 5-dc set for convenience.  Then I’d suggest that you work a continuous border all around the two fronts and base of jacket using the finishing pattern all around. 
3.      Be snazzy and make a top with just lower half open.. so you will work the top bit as given, and for the front, work part of the rows end to end, and then divide at the centre 5-dc set and make the front into two halves.  This is a little trickier than working a jacket, as you will need to ensure that the two halves do not overlap.  How do you do this? Well, I’d still use that centre 5-dc set as my centre dividng stitch, but instead of using the centre stitch, I’d use the two side stitches as markers – i.e the 1stand 5th st will be my turning stitches each end.  You do need to decide how wide you would want the border to be – the border like you are working around the armhole and neckline – and see if you can fit that similar border here too.. else make the border all around smaller – OR work till the dc before the 5-dc set on both side (hopefully you get what I mean, as you have done the pattern several rows by now).  The diagram below is just for explanation and is not to scale.

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3D CAT COASTER

I’ve made several coasters, and then several motifs as well as stuff toys.
Today’s project is a combination of these three.. and so darn cute, you cannot miss trying this one out.
Thanks for coming along and spreading smiles.

In case you have just joined me here, do check under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog for my earlier patterns.  They are categorized for easy access.
Then do follow me here on my blog, via Pinterest or on Facebook for your convenience.  I try to post at least one blog a day, so let’s have lots of fun.
The simplest and fastest way to get my older creations is via my Pinterest link, and then of course follow my via my various social media handles for all future posts. Cheers.

Materials used : Today I’ve used a 4-ply knitting cotton yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook. Today’s yarn has been purchased from the Arts and Craft Megastore in Goa (Ananti Saboo’s store). Contact her on Facebook.

Difficulty :  Intermediate skill level
                                                         

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg



Instructions using U.S terminology








The write up is, I think, a translation from some other language, so there are a few hiccups.. but not too hard to follow.  I have written to the designer asking if I could translate it better, but am still to hear from her.  That said, have fun creating something cute.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my other toys and amigurumi. 






































and here are some of my miscellaneous home use creations.. coasters here too.






























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SHANKH BOLERO plus SCARF

This oh, so beautiful shank bolero uses two patterns – one part is for the simpler bolero and the other for the long scarf.  It is the easy combination of these two patterns that makes this such a gorgeous creation.  Throw in some multi colored yarn and you end up with an awesome creation.

Shankh is the Hindi word for Shell – so now you know why I named this project.

In case you have just joined me here, do check under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog for my earlier patterns.  They are categorized for easy access.
Then do follow me here on my blog, via Pinterest or on Facebook for your convenience.  I try to post at least one blog a day, so let’s have lots of fun.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 200 gms of  the gorgeous Bella Baby wonder 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook.
I bought this yarn in Australia from Spotlight stores.  This yarn is not specific for this project.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 36” (L/XL)

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level. 


Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-starting-chain-to-knot-or-not/

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  Thismakes your whole project neat and even..in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

How to crochet the trc-together : If you’ve worked a dc-tog, then this is a lot like that, just that you work it with a trc. Here’s a video for a different set of trc together stitches

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet                        ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                               sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                         hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                  yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                         sc : Single crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today. 
As always I request you to please go through all my detailed notes before you pick up your hook.  There are ideas galore…. Enjoy!

This is a bottom up creation.  For this pattern we will start at the base of the top and work our way to the shoulders.  We will work one back and two fronts for this creation.

Here are ideas to make this into a top.
As we are working with the easy rectangle presentation, you will get a nice off-the-shoulder bit that works as a smallish sleeve.  Finish that edge and you have a lovely top.
You can make this into a crop top as well.  All you do is work the pattern to the length needed and you are done.  Working a smaller set of rectangles, joining at the shoulders and not working any sleeves will give you an awesome off the shoulder loose crop top that will make you the envy of all your friends.



Today however, we’re making a bolero plus scarf. 

So for the back, we will work one rectangle in Pattern 1.
We will then work two rectangles in the Shelled pattern (Pattern 2) for the scarf portion.  
We will attach our yarn in the centre back and then work one half each for the two front scarf bits.  
These will then go across the back and fall across the front as well.  


The length of the scarf will depend on how much yarn you have.  I wanted to use up all my yarn, and this is the length I ended up with – but you could easily make it longer.
In my case then, this is like an ‘uneven bolero’ (like the uneven tops and uneven dresses that have the front short and back long? Here my front is long and the back a bit shorter ;) )

The diagram below (by designer) demonstrates what we are going to do.   I have been inspired by the charts at  http://receitasdecrochet.blogspot.com/2012/06/blusa-diferente-de-crochet.html



Come along.. so many ideas .. lets’ start.

First calculations :
1.        Keep your round bust / round chest / round waist measurements.  Use the largest measure.
2.      You need to decide the length for your top.
3.      You need to decide how long you’d like your scarf.

You can make this to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right.  


The recipient has worn it differently - and she has promised to send me photos or a video of how she wore it this way - she seems to have put the scarf bit around the bottom, hasn't she.. hmmm yet another drape, huh?



... but this is the way it was 'intended' by the designer


Part 1 : Back

  

The stitch count for our pattern 1 is in multiples of 9 for the width you want for your bolero.  Remember #1 from notes above. 
For this back pattern, there are two charts – so two ways to make it.

Start : with fdc in multiples of 9.  Turn.
I suggest you start with fdc, but if you are still struggling with it, work a fsc chain and then work dc all the way to the end. 
If you are struggling with fsc as well, then start with ch in multiples of 9 + 2 and work a dc in the 3rd ch from hk.  Ensure that you have the stitch count at the end of your first row.

The first way (that I’ve chosen) is to work a dc 2-tog.  For a quick ‘how to’, check the top of this blog.

“Split dc 2-tog” st :  The dc 2-tog is, however, worked over three stitches skipping 2 sts in between.  So you work the first half of your dc 2-tog over one stitch, sk the next st and work the 2nd half of the dc 2-tog over the next st.  
As we’re splitting this stitch, let’s call this our “Split dc 2-tog” st.

In case you find this tedious or not as neat, choose to use the other method.  In this method you will work a ch-5 sp over 3 sts per the chart below.  The ch-5 sp is the same as the Split dc 2-tog and is worked every alternate row.

For every other row we will work a dc all through and the pattern is the same whether you use the ch-5 sp or the Split dc 2-tog.

I am writing my instructions as per what I have done. 
If you choose the ch-5 pattern, please follow the chart above.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fdc ;  
ch 1, Split dc 2-tog over the same 1st fdc , sk the next st and next fdc ;
*ch 3, skipping the st in the middle of the next 3 fdc, work Split dc 2-tog over the next st, and the next st* ;
rep *to* till end ; ch 1, dc in the same last fdc.  Turn

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;  dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
*sk the next st ; 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.
Check that you have the same number of sts that you started with.

We will now start with our Split dc 2-tog stitch.
Row 3 : Split dc 2-tog over the 1st 3 dc , (so using the 1st dc, skipping the 2nd dc and using the 3rd dc) ; 
*(ch 3, Split dc 2-tog over the next 3 dc)* ;
rep *to* till the end ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;  3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*sk next st ; 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.
Check that you have the same number of sts that you started with.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;  
ch 1, Split dc 2-tog over the same 1st fdc , sk the next st and next dc ;
*ch 3, Split dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts* ;
rep *to* till end ; ch 1, dc in the same last dc.  Turn

Put your work down and admire what you have created.  
We’ve completed one pattern repeat.
Rep Rows 2 – 5 for as many times as you’d like, ending with an all-dc Row 2 or 4 till you reach the shoulders.

When you are done, you will have one large rectangle which is the back or your bolero.  Now for the front we will work a slightly different pattern and two smaller rectangles. 

Front Pattern 2 :

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EASY GIRL’S JACKET

This is a cute pattern that I found on you tube , so yup, not mine .. but that was for a small baby girl, and here I have adapted that pattern for a 6 yr old

If you have just joined me, and want a look at my earlier blogs (esp with the alphabet motifs), then find my earlier free crochet patterns under “Categories” listed under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog.
Then for your convenience, follow me here, or on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram.  All the follow links / handles are at the bottom of this blog.


I’d say the fastest way to find one of my patterns would be via Pinterest or the labels on this blog.

Do remember to tag me when you make and show off your creation. 
Cheers.  Enjoy J


Materials used : Today I’ve used some Vardhman Soft n’ Smart shimmer (4- ply) yarn,  with a 3.5 mm crochet hook 
This yarn should be available at Pradhan Embroidery stores, the official stockist for Vardhman yarns... else contact Vardhmanknitworld on Instagram or their website for purchase.
For Indians & Non-Indians : This yarn is not specific to the pattern.  You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to work this pattern. 



Skill level :  Intermediate to Advanced.

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                   dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                            ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                            rep : Repeat


Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-starting-chain-to-knot-or-not/

Magic circle :To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/
And https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)


You can make this for any size, using any yarn and suitable hook. 
So you can make the same pattern (but you will need to calculate some things on your own, be warned), then you can do it with these tweaks.

The original pattern that I have followed is at  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCk1dy4jlf8

On top of this blog are links for neckline sizing. 
Now the video starts with 55 sts and its for a particular size as given, right?

So say you’re working it for a 6 yr old (as I am), then go to this link https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/for a similar neckline pattern. 
Now what does it say for 6 yrs (6 anos) – it says start with 86 sts.
It then says that the sides of our 6 yr old neckline will be divided at the 13thst (for back) ; 17th st (for one side) ; keep 26 sts (for front) ; 17 sts again (for the 2nd side) and you will end with the last set of 13 sts for the back. Right? Good.

Now remember that the video is for one size, and my instructions are for a 6-yr old. 
These are only indicative ideas and not exactly the size you may want.. but with these ideas, you can make it to your size.
Remember that you choose whatever neckline size you need for you child.


OK, So in the video, after the first 6 sts, she works a “V” st.. that is what you will work on the 13th st, then 17th st, 26thst and 17th st – so four “V” sts that will be worked all around. 
These four “V”-sts will form the four corners for our neckline.

In case you are making a front open vest / jacket, then the 13 sts (with the 6-yr old jacket) will mark the two fronts.  Easy enough, right?

Now the pattern needs to be followed depending on the size you are making for.. so if we’re working this for a 6-yr old, you will work it till you have a shoulder width of 7.75 cm / front and back across chest of 28.5 cm and length from shoulder to end of yoke at 12.5 cm. (once again these are measurements with reference to the chart on that link before)  Got it?
This simple all dc with “V”-st in the four corners is for the yoke of your front open vest /jacket or dress or top.

So you can now go back to the You tube link and after checking the link for neckline sizing start the pattern for the yoke.  Work the yoke only till the lengh indicated for your size requirement.

Lower part of jacket / dress / top
For the lower part of the jacket , you will need to get your stitch count right.  Ensure that you have stitches in multiples of 4 + 1. 

So how do you ensure you have the stitch count needed?  After you have the length needed for the yoke (per chart), count the stitches.  If you have the stitch count, great – if not, figure out how many more you need and place markers to add them in evenly.  Then work one row of sc all around, adding in the needed stitches.  Easy enough, huh?

Now go ahead to the second part of the video and work the lovely flower pattern (as the designer calls the pattern) and the sleeves as desired.

I just had a little bit of yarn left, so decided to make a tiny little flower motif for the left lapel.


The flower is worked in one round and continuously in a magic circle.

Start with a magic circle and work (ch 2 ; 2 dc ; ch 2) 5 times into the magic circle.  Pull tight to close.  Fasten off and leave a little yarn to stitch your flower motif onto the jacket / vest or top.

Hope you had fun working on this pattern.. yes, it was not given to you line by line.. but see, you got it done anyway.  Kudos.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit / add my blog link (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/  OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/


And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few similar creations already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go 



































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MULTI USE BASKET

My friend gifted me this yarn and I wondered what I could do with it.. just one ball of yarn and this lovely extra thick yarn.. so I started scouring the net to see what would work best.  Coincidentally my friend (yes, the same one who gifted this yarn) has a lil baby girl, who obviously has dolls – so I thought this would make an ideal basket to hold the doll clothing and accessories.. whatchathink?



Materials used : One ball of this stunningly thick and soft acrylic Vardhman yarn, with a 10 mm crochet hook
To purchase : Pradhan Embroidery Stores is the official stockist for all Vardhman yarns.  If this is not available there, please contact vardhmanknitworld on Instagram or find their website of the same name and order.
For Non-Indians : The original pattern link uses tee-shirt yarn (I think.. that’s what it looks like) – and I’ve used this super bulky yarn.
You can make this project with any yarnand a hook that suits it.

If you have just joined me, and want a look at my earlier blogs (esp with the alphabet motifs), then find my earlier free crochet patterns under “Categories” listed under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog.
Then for your convenience, follow me here, or on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram.  All the follow links / handles are at the bottom of this blog.  
The quickest way to find my patterns are via Pinterest.

Skill level : Easy

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start :Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

How to carry your yarn along when using more than one colour : http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-carry-yarn-in-crochet.html


How to make a rounded cord for the handle : View the video link below for a really simple way to make a rounded cord handle for your handbag.  http://vimeo.com/88972371


                                     
Instructions :


Today I’ve decided to make a basket to hold Barbie doll clothing and accessories for a friend’s baby girl.  I’ve been inspired by this video for my project.

Using this same pattern, you can work in different colours (a different coloure per round) and use up all your stash.  When using stash though, remember that all yarns should be of the same type or thickness and can be used with the same hook.

I can see this basket being used in the bathroom to hold little rolled up face towels - or the kitchen with a similar use or to hold tissues. 
If you use some nice shiny yarn, it will also make a good container to gift a hand made item - so go ahead, create and spread smiles.

I hope you had as much fun as I did.. have a great day too.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  
I’d also appreciate if you could credit this blog when you complete your project.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

You may want to take a look at some more beautiful and unusual bag / purse patterns.







































































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WATERMELON MOTIF
STATIONERY CLIP MOTIFS 31

I love watermelons.. the fruit as well as these tiny motifs ;)
I’ve made a watermelon bag before as well.

This is my last blog post for this set of stationery clip motifs.  I do hope you've enjoyed this journey too.

If you have just joined me, and want a look at my earlier blogs (esp with the alphabet motifs), then find my earlier free crochet patterns under “Categories” listed under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog.
Then for your convenience, follow me here, or on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram.  All the follow links / handles are at the bottom of this blog.

I’d say the fastest way to find one of my patterns would be via Pinterest or the labels on this blog.

Do remember to tag me when you make and show off your creation. 
Cheers.  Enjoy J


Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Anchor knitting cotton yarn with a 1.3 mm crochet hook
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Difficulty level : Intermediate

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Hdc : Half Double Crochet : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk), yo, draw through all 3 lps.  One hdc made.

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.  

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


Abbreviations used :
sc : single crochet                                                    dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                     ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                     rep : Repeat
hk : hook                                                     lp (s) : loop(s)
yo : yarn over                                           sl-st : slip stitch     


Instruction information



For today’s yummy watermelon motif, rush on over to https://www.allfreecrochet.com/Crochet-Accessories/Watermelon-Pin

Have fun – create something unique.
Do remember to share the original blog link and also remember to tag me
I would appreciate if you could share this blog post too when you show off your creation.  Cheers.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Check out my earlier home use miscellaneous patterns  below
Have a great day and see you soon. J












































































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WAGONWHEEL FLOWER MOTIF
STATIONERY CLIP MOTIFS 30

Three flower motifs in a row.  Today’s wagon wheel flower motif is a very adaptable one – I know you will find several uses for it – so come along and let’s get a move on with this new flower motif.

Do remember to tag me when you make and show off your creation. 
Cheers.  Enjoy J

If you have just joined me, and want a look at my earlier blogs (esp with the alphabet motifs), then find my earlier free crochet patterns under “Categories” listed under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog.
Then for your convenience, follow me here, or on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram.  All the follow links / handles are at the bottom of this blog.

Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Indian kankri / kamal kadai / polyester silk embroidery floss/ yarn with a 1.3 mm crochet hook
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Difficulty level : Intermediate

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Hdc : Half Double Crochet : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk), yo, draw through all 3 lps.  One hdc made.

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.  

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


Abbreviations used :
sc : single crochet                                                    dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                     ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                     rep : Repeat
hk : hook                                                     lp (s) : loop(s)
yo : yarn over                                            sl-st : slip stitch     


Instruction information



I’ve worked on a similar flower pattern before and made it into a tea light candle holder as well – but all we need is one small tweak, and we get a different end result.

For today’s wagon wheel flower motif, check out https://www.bhookedcrochet.com/2013/07/13/crochet-flower-pattern/

Have fun – create something unique.
Do remember to share the original blog link and also remember to tag me
I would appreciate if you could share this blog post too when you show off your creation.  Cheers.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Check out my earlier home use miscellaneous patterns  below
Have a great day and see you soon. J












































































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VIOLET FLOWER MOTIF
STATIONERY CLIP MOTIFS 29

Yesterday we worked on a brilliant sunshine yellow sunflower and today it’s a gorgeous purple violet flower.

Do remember to tag me when you make and show off your creation. 
Cheers.  Enjoy J

If you have just joined me, and want a look at my earlier blogs (esp with the alphabet motifs), then find my earlier free crochet patterns under “Categories” listed under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog.
Then for your convenience, follow me here, or on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram.  All the follow links / handles are at the bottom of this blog.

Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Anchor knitting cotton yarn with a 1.3 mm crochet hook
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Difficulty level : Intermediate

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Hdc : Half Double Crochet : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk), yo, draw through all 3 lps.  One hdc made.

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.  

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


Abbreviations used :
sc : single crochet                                                    dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                     ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                     rep : Repeat
hk : hook                                                     lp (s) : loop(s)
yo : yarn over                                           sl-st : slip stitch     


Instruction information



For this beautiful lil violet flower motif, fly on over to https://www.fabartdiy.com/how-to-crochet-violet-flower-pattern-detailed-tutorial/

Have fun – create something unique.
Do remember to share the original blog link and also remember to tag me
I would appreciate if you could share this blog post too when you show off your creation.  Cheers.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Check out my earlier jewelry and home use miscellaneous patterns  below
Have a great day and see you soon. J













































































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SUNFLOWER MOTIF
STATIONERY CLIP MOTIFS 27

I started with motifs for Project Chemo Crochet and then was asked to make a range of motifs for an “under the sea” party which lead to this set of motifs of stationery clips … what a fun creative journey this has been!

Do remember to tag me when you make and show off your creation. 
Cheers.  Enjoy J

If you have just joined me, and want a look at my earlier blogs (esp with the alphabet motifs), then find my earlier free crochet patterns under “Categories” listed under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog.
Then for your convenience, follow me here, or on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram.  All the follow links / handles are at the bottom of this blog.

Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Anchor knitting cotton yarn with a 1.3 mm crochet hook
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.


Instruction information



Today’s sunflower motif pattern is a paid pattern from https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mini-sunflower 

Though this is a paid pattern, do be inspired by the many links at the bottom of this blog that will lead to several free patterns.  I have made lots and lots of little flowers.. and even one sunflower tea light candle holder.  The quickest way to find all my projects in one place is via Pinterest, but you know that already, don’t you? J

Have fun – create something unique.
Remember to tag me and share this blog post when you show off your creation.  Cheers.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Check out my earlier miscellaneous patterns below
Have a great day and see you soon. J


























































































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SNAIL MOTIF
STATIONERY CLIP MOTIFS 27

I started with motifs for Project Chemo Crochet and then was asked to make a range of motifs for an “under the sea” party which lead to this set of motifs of stationery clips … what a fun creative journey this has been!

Do remember to tag me when you make and show off your creation. 
Cheers.  Enjoy J

If you have just joined me, and want a look at my earlier blogs (esp with the alphabet motifs), then find my earlier free crochet patterns under “Categories” listed under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog.
Then for your convenience, follow me here, or on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram.  All the follow links / handles are at the bottom of this blog.

Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Anchor knitting cotton yarn with a 1.3 mm crochet hook
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Difficulty level : Easy

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Hdc : Half Double Crochet : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk), yo, draw through all 3 lps.  One hdc made.

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.   

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


Abbreviations used :
sc : single crochet                                                    dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                     ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                     rep : Repeat
hk : hook                                                     lp (s) : loop(s)
yo : yarn over                                           sl-st : slip stitch     


Instruction information



The snail is worked in two parts.  The first part is the body (lower bit) and the second part is the shell.
You can work the whole pattern in one colour, or go ahead and change colours as you choose.
This is an advanced skill level pattern.
I have just written the pattern as charted – I struggled too much with giving instructions for where I changed colors – so decided against giving that information.  As you are an advanced crocheter, go ahead and experiment and create something different :_

Part 1 :
Start Round 1 : (for snail face with snail body colour) :  with a magic circle with 10 dc in it. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

We will start working on the two eyes and then work down for the body.
We will also be working a ch-3 picot for each eye on top of the dc
Picot :(sc, ch 3, sl-st in same sc) all in the same st. 
Pl view instructions at http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-crochet-a-picot-stitch.html for a refresher of what a picot is.


Row 2 :(with snail body colour) :  dc + picot in the 1st dc ; sl-st down the dc and sl-st in the next st ;
dc + picot in the next dc ; sl-st down this dc and in the next 4 dc ;
ch 19 ; Turn and work sc in the 2nd ch from hk ;
sc in the next ch and in each ch till end ; sl-st in the next 2 sts of the face.  Turn

Row 3 :(with snail body colour) :  dc in the 1st16 sc ; sc in the last 2 sc ; join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 
Fasten off and leave a tail for attachment of motif onto garment or blanket.

Body or lower half of snail complete.

Part 2 :
For the shell we will work in continuous rounds to get the shelled effect. 
Start Round 1 : (for snail face with snail shell colour) :  with a magic circle with 6 sc in it.

Round 2 :2 sc each in the 1st 2 sts ; 2 hdc each in the next  2 sts ; 2 dc each in the next 32 sts (worked in spirals) ; hdc in the next 2 sts ; sc in the last 2 sts ; sl-st into the next st and fasten off. Leave a tail for attachment to the 1st st.

Note :I worked the crab stitch or reverse single crochet to finish my shell.
How to do the crab stitch or reverse single crochet : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wE-ObvYb_Pk


Have fun – create something unique.
Remember to tag me and share this blog post when you show off your creation.  Cheers.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

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Check out my earlier miscellaneous patterns below
Have a great day and see you soon. J

































































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