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MOCHA TRIANGULAR SCARF

The beauty of this scarf is in its simplicity… a really simple pattern that uses post stitches to give this fantastic end result.
Come along..let’s not waste any time and get right to it

In case you have just joined me here, do check under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog for my earlier patterns.  They are categorized for easy access.
Then do follow me here on my blog, via Pinterest or on Facebook for your convenience.  I try to post at least one blog a day, so let’s have lots of fun.

Materials used : Today I’ve used three different shades of brown in Vardhman millennium 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook.
These yarns are not specific for this project.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate Skill level. 


Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-starting-chain-to-knot-or-not/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 
                                                         

Pattern Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

Today, we’re creating an assymetric triangular scarf. 
This just means that we start with a few stitches and then keep working, increasing along one side – such that we have one straight side (that goes around neck) and a growing triangle along the other side that is fashionably draped around the chest ;)






The beauty of this pattern is that you can make it as long as you want – just keep working till you finish your skein.. how easy is that, right?  

oh, this is a closer look at the gorgeous front

... and the back is fantastic too


Have fun and do remember to share my blog post when you show off your creation.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

It is sad that though my blogs are very popular and being used by so many, not many think of giving credit when you post your projects on social media. 
There is a lot of work that goes into writing one of these patterns, so do pay it forward – good karma and all that blah J

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern links) when you make your own fantastic creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my earlier neckwear creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too














































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CHOCO-STRAWBERRY RIPPLE COWL

This is a really simple cowl using two colours and post stitches. 
Come along..let’s not waste any time and get right to it

In case you have just joined me here, do check under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog for my earlier patterns.  They are categorized for easy access.
Then do follow me here on my blog, via Pinterest or on Facebook for your convenience.  I try to post at least one blog a day, so let’s have lots of fun.

Oh, I do hope you know that the fastest way to get to all of my patterns is by checking me out on Pinterest. J

Materials used : Today I’ve used about one ball of Vardhman Millenium and  a ball of  J. Sagar’s Wash-n-Wear blended double knit wool with a 4.5 mm crochet hook.
These yarns are not specific for this project.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.




Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level. 


Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-starting-chain-to-knot-or-not/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 



How to single crochet join :  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmYEsHlgQ30


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

sc : Single crochet                                              ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                         sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                     hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                  yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip          

                                                     

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)






You could make a scarf with this pattern too.
You can make this project to any size – width or length – as desired.
I do not claim that this is my pattern – these are just my notes for the small tweaks I made to get this slightly varied effect.

Like the original pattern, my cowl too is worked along the length.
So all I did was work as many fsc I needed for my infinity cowl – so work a row and wrap it around your neck and see if that length works.  If it does, then join it neatly at the end.

Check out this video on how to keep your chain flat without twisting when working with a longer chain length

I had more brown yarn than the pink, so I could not work one row in each color like the original pattern.  So I just worked two rows in dc with the brown yarn, and one row in post stitches with the pink yarn.

As we’re working in rounds, you will join every round with a sl-st at the end and move your other colour yarn up every round as well.
I hope the video links below will help for working with two colours of yarn.

How to carry your yarn along when using more than one colour :  http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-carry-yarn-in-crochet.html

How to change colours while crocheting with multiple color yarns : http://www.diyhowto.org/tapestry-crochet-free-patterns/


One small tweak and a slightly different cowl.  Cool huh?

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

It is sad that though my blogs are very popular and being used by so many, not many think of giving credit when you post your projects on social media. 
There is a lot of work that goes into writing one of these patterns, so do pay it forward – good karma and all that blah J

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern links) when you make your own fantastic creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my earlier neckwear creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too


































and
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WILLOW SHAWL

You may not believe this, but sometimes, just throwing together similar colored yarns with the ‘right pattern’ works wonders.  This is just what I did for my Willow Shawl and I love it, don’t you? J

In case you have just joined me here, do check under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog for my earlier patterns.  They are categorized for easy access.
Then do follow me here on my blog, via Pinterest or on Facebook for your convenience.  I try to post at least one blog a day, so let’s have lots of fun.

Oh, I do hope you know that the fastest way to get to all of my patterns is by checking me out on Pinterest. J

Materials used : Today I’ve worked with Vardhman millennium 4-ply acrylic yarn (all the greens) and some Alpaca Soft (for the tendrilly edging) with a 4 mm crochet hook.
These yarns are not specific for this project.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level. 


Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-starting-chain-to-knot-or-not/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 
                                               

Pattern notes : (Using U.S Terminology)








Today, we’re creating a triangular shawl with a really simple stitch. 
This pattern is worked over two rows – one that has chain loops / spaces and the next one that fills in those chain spaces with (dc) stitches… and then this lovely tendril flowing border.  I loved working on this pattern.
The beauty of this pattern is that you can work it for as long / wide as you want or till you run out of yarn ;)

The video for this free pattern is not in English – but it is very well taken, and you do not need to hear what she is saying – just follow the stitches.

The pattern details are available at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mROuz_DLJxI 

Have a fun creative day too.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

It is sad that though my blogs are very popular and being used by so many, not many think of giving credit when you post your projects on social media. 
There is a lot of work that goes into writing one of these patterns, so do pay it forward – good karma and all that blah J

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern links) when you make your own fantastic creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my earlier neckwear creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too

















































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STRAPLESS DRESS for BARBIE DOLL

This is the last in the clothing series for this doll .. for now.  I’ve had so much fun creating clothes for this doll, that I’m sure I’m going to return to this again soon.  Thanks for joining me on this creative journey.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”.  Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.
Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest…?

Do remember to tag me when you make and show off your creation. 
Cheers.  Enjoy J

Materials used : I’ve used Anchor knitting cotton with a 1.75 mm crochet hook. 
For Non-Indians : You can make this project with any yarn and a hook that suits it.. and after my project, I’d say knitting cotton would be best.

Skill level : Intermediate. 

Stitches used :
Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.



Pattern Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)



This is a lovely pattern for a strapless dress.. even for adults ;)

I just decided to use two colours to accentuate the bodice – but you can work it all in one colour like the designer. 


Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience), and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

You may want to take a look at some more beautiful and unusual bag / purse patterns.

















































































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PINEAPPLE BOHO BEACH BAG for Barbie

I have made this exact pattern for adult humans and today I’m going to adapt this bag to make it super small for a Barbie doll.

Materials used : Just a little bit of Red Rose knitting cotton , with a 1.7.5 mm crochet hook
General yarn info : I would say you could use any knitting cotton to make this project.  Remember that the finer the yarn and hook, the smaller the project.

Skill level : Intermediate. 

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-starting-chain-to-knot-or-not/

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Hdc : Half Double Crochet : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); yo, draw through all 3 lps.  One hdc made.

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.




Abbreviations used :(Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                  sc : Single crochet
hdc : Half double crochet         sp : Space                               
sl-st : Slip stitch                                           ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                           hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over 


I have made this fantastic pineapple boho beach bag before, with the pattern from http://ambrosiascreations.blogspot.in/2014/06/pattern-pineapple-crochet-market-bag.html?m=1.

I am using the same inspiration with a small tweak to get it a little smaller.





Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 8 hdc in it. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : 2 sc in the 1st st and in each st all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sc in the 1st st ; 2 sc in the next st ;
(sc in the next st ; 2 sc in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sc in the 1st 2 sts ; 2 sc in the next st ;
(sc in the next 2 sts ; 2 sc in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sc in the 1st 3 sts ; 2 sc in the next st ;
(sc in the next 3 sts ; 2 sc in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : sc in the 1st 4 sts ; 2 sc in the next st ;
(sc in the next 4 sts ; 2 sc in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : sc in the 1st  2 sts ; sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in the next st ;
(sc in the next 2 sts ; sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in the next st) ;
rep (to) all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : sl-st past the 1st  2 sts ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 3 times ;
*sk the next 2 sc ; rep (to) 5 times*
rep *to* all around ;
sk last 2 sc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Now in the following row, it’s a little complicated, as we work not only in ch-1 sps, but also in the space between two sts as we start on our first round for the pineapples.
Our small “V” st is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or sp.
Round 9 : sl-st into the 1st  ch-1 sp , sc in the same 1st ch-1 sp
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; sk next dc, Small “V”-st in the sp between the skipped dc and the next dc ;
*sk the next dc , sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
sk next dc, Small “V”-st in the sp between the skipped dc and the next dc*
rep *to* all around ; ending with a “V” st in that last sp between sts,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 10 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp , sc in the same 1stch-1 sp
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) once ;
Small “V”-st in the next Small “V”-st ;
*sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) 2 times ; Small “V”-st in the next Small “V”-st*
rep *to* all around ; ending with a “V” st in that last “V”-st,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 11 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp , sc in the same 1stch-1 sp
ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) once ;
*sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) once*
rep *to* all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 12 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp , sc in the same 1stch-1 sp
(sk next dc, Small “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp) ; ch 1, rep (to) once ;
*sc in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) once ; ch 1, rep (to) once*
rep *to* all around ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

We will now work our handles to finish off this cute little beach bag, without cutting yarn.  We will make two straps of about 30 ch.  So mark four points where you will attach the straps.  The first point is the starting one where we are presently – so place markers in 3 more spaces.  This is not an exact science.. it all depends on how you like the bag to look – so go a bit crazy, and create..

Right then.. I worked about 30 ch and then sl-st in the 1st (of the 3) markers.  Now either you fasten off at this point and weave in ends, or you sl-st all the way to the next marker and work 30 ch which you will then join to the last marker.
If you have chosen to fasten off, then re-attach your yarn at the next marker, work 30 ch and join to the last marker.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.





Place all of Barbie doll’s beach stuff in this bag and take her to the beach in her bikini, won’t you?
Hope you too have a fun day at the beach.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience), and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

You may want to take a look at some more beautiful and unusual bag / purse patterns (for adults and children though, not for dolls – oh there is one doll tote here – the first one right on top).
































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BARBIE DOLL BIKINI

I made an adult bikini some time back, and a friend asked if I’d make a two piece set for a doll. ;)
Of course, if you know me, I’m always willing to try anything crochet.. and as you are here, following me, I guess you too are game to try anything, huh!

Come along then.. let’s get this bikini done.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”.  Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.
Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest…?

Do remember to tag me when you make and show off your creation. 
Cheers.  Enjoy J

Materials used : Little scraps of acrylic yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook.  May I add that I wish I’d used cotton instead J
For Non-Indians : You can make this project with any yarn and a hook that suits it.. and after my project, I’d say knitting cotton would be best.

Skill level : Intermediate. 

Stitches used :
Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

Pattern Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)







As I mentioned before, I had this lovely pink yarn (in acrylic) that I thought,  color-wise, would look great – and of course material wise, I knew my recipient (Barbie) would not complain about ;) .. but after having finished it, I thought it would look a little more delicate in cotton.  I didn’t have time to repeat or redo this – but I’m happy with the experiment.

For today’s tiny Barbie doll two piece bikini set, please visit https://feltmagnet.com/textiles-sewing/Barbie-Bikini-Free-Crochet-Pattern

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience), and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

You may want to take a look at some more beautiful and unusual bag / purse patterns.







































































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BARBIE DOLL SLEEVELESS TOP

Yesterday I made a shelled skirt for my friend’s daughter’s doll.  
Today let’s pair that with a sleeveless top, shall we?

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”.  Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.
Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest…?

Do remember to tag me when you make and show off your creation. 
Cheers.  Enjoy J

Materials used : Today I’ve used some Anchor knitting cotton yarn,  with a 1.75 mm crochet hook 
For Indians & Non-Indians : You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to work this pattern. 

Skill level :  Easy to Intermediate.


Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-starting-chain-to-knot-or-not/

Magic circle :To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


Pattern Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)





For today’s sleeveless top, I have worked just the top bit of this dress.  So follow the instructions till you get a sleeveless top for as long as you want – a shorter length means your Barbie doll gets a neat crop top. 

… and of course you could make the full dress too.. so how cool is this write up, huh? A neat 2-in-1.  Enjoy.



If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  
  
Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/  OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/


And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few similar miscellaneous creations already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go 





































































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BARBIE DOLL SKIRT

A friend gifted me some yarn, and it was just right to make little doll clothing.  She has a little girl who is ‘into’ Barbie dolls so I thought this would make the perfect gift for her.

Materials used : Today I’ve used some Anchor knitting cotton yarn,  with a 1.75 mm crochet hook 
For Indians & Non-Indians : You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to work this pattern. 

Skill level :  Easy to Intermediate.
  
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-starting-chain-to-knot-or-not/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


Pattern Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)









This is the first in a series of clothes made for a doll.  Get this free crochet pattern at https://www.rebeckahstreasures.com/blog/crochet-barbie-skirt-pattern

I have made a whole series of little doll clothing and accessories - so if interested do follow me for the details and lots of photos :).  Cheers.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  


Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/  OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/


And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here is a list of my earlier miscellaneous home use proejcts.  Enjoy





































































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GULDASTA WRAP

This simple stole or wrap uses only basic stitches to give you a really beautiful and lacy end result.  In my mind, I have imagined a small tulip bulb which is the main idea of this wrap.
This wrap has can be made in three ways – you can have an asymmetric wrap (made in red), a symmetric one (made in blue/green yarn) and read on to see what else we can do with this project. 

Guldasta is the hindi word for a bouquet of flowers – so you’ll have a fragrant bouquet of flowers around your neck with this project.  How cool is that, huh?

In case you have just joined me here, do check under “Labels” on the right hand side of this blog for my earlier patterns.  They are categorized for easy access.
Then do follow me here on my blog, via Pinterest or on Facebook for your convenience.  I try to post at least one blog a day, so let’s have lots of fun.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 100 gms of  the lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 3-ply acrylic yarn (blue/green) with a 3 mm crochet hook and about 150 gms of the lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon (red) yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook.

General yarn info : This yarn is not specific for this project.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level. 

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-starting-chain-to-knot-or-not/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 4 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 4-tog made.


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

ch : Chain                                                             sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                               sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                             hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                          yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip               
dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-together           
                                   

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)




Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today. 
As always I request you to please go through all my detailed notes before you pick up your hook.  There are ideas galore…. Enjoy!

For all patterns, we start from one side, and gradually allow our wrap to grow with every line.

For the symmetric wrap, you increase till you have the width desired.  This marks the centre of your wrap, and you then start reducing it to give it a symmetric shape.

For the asymmetric wrap, you just increase gradually till you have a wrap of a length that goes easily around your neck.  This will mean that your lovely florets go diagonally.

You can also try to work in two colours – to highlight the florets.
The two coloured wrap is made such that the florets are in one colour, and the petals and ‘grass’ (lines between the flowers) are in a second colour. 
For this wrap, your imagination and creativity add to the charm and individuality, using ideas given below.


Start  with ch 4.  

Row 1 :  sc in 2nd ch from hk, and next 2 ch.  Ch 3. Turn.  (3 sc, ch 3)

Row 2 :  sc in 2nd ch from hk, and next ch ; sc in next 3 sc.  Turn.  (5 sc)

Row 3 : dc in 1st sc ;
sk next sc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
sk next sc, dc in last sc.  Turn. 
(4 dc, 1 ch-1 sp)

Row 4 : dc in 1st dc ;
ch 2, dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ;
ch 2 , dc in last dc. Turn. 
(2 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, 1 dc 4-tog, 3 ch)

Row 5 :  sc in 1st dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp and sc in dc 4-tog ;
sc in last dc.  Ch 3. Turn. 
(7 sc, 3 ch)
                                       
Row 6 :sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc in next ch and each sc till end.  Turn.  (9 sc)

Row 7 :sc in each sc till end.  Ch 3.  Turn. (9 sc, 3 ch)

Row 8 :sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc in next ch and each sc till end.  Turn.  (11 sc)

Row 9 :  dc in 1st sc ;
sk next sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
*sk 2 sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc* ;
rep *to* once ;
sk next sc, dc in last sc.  Turn.  (8 dc, 3 ch-1 sps)

Row 10 :  dc in 1st dc ;
ch 2, *dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ; ch 2*;
rep *to* twice ;
dc in last dc.  Turn. 
(2 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 3 dc 4-tog)

Row 11 :sc in each dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, and sc in each dc 4-tog till end.  Ch 3.  Turn. (13 sc, 3 ch)

Row 12 :sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc in next ch and each sc till end.  Turn.  (15 sc)

Row 13 :sc in each sc till end.  Ch 3.  Turn. (15 sc, 3 ch)

Row 14 :sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc in next ch and each sc till end.  Turn.  (17 sc)

Row 15 :  dc in  1st sc ;
sk next sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
*sk 2 sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc* ;
rep *to* thrice ;
sk next sc, dc in last sc.  Turn.  (12 dc, 5 ch-1 sps)

Row 16 :  dc in  1st dc ;
ch 2, *dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ; ch 2*;
rep *to* last ch-1 sp ;
dc in last dc.  Turn. 
(2 dc, 6 ch-2 sps, 5 dc 4-tog)

Row 17 :sc in each dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, and sc in each dc 4-tog till end.  Ch 3.  Turn.
This is a rep of Row 11.
So here your st count should be 6 sc more than Row 11. (i.e 19 sc, 3 ch)

Row 18 :sc in 2nd ch from hk ; sc in next ch and each sc till end.  Turn. 
This is a rep of Row 12.
So here your st count should be 6 sc more than Row 12. (i.e 21 sc)

Row 19 :sc in each sc till end.  Ch 3.  Turn.
This is a rep of Row 13.
So here your st count should be 6 sc more than Row 13. (i.e 21 sc, 3 ch)

Row 20 :sc in 2nd ch from hk ; sc in next ch and each sc till end.  Turn. 
This is a rep of Row 14.
So here your st count should be 6 sc more than Row 14. (i.e 23 sc)

Row 21 :  dc in  1st sc ; sk next sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
*sk 2 sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc* ; rep *to* till the 3rd last sc from end (i.e till you are in the 3rd sc from end, and have 2 sc left till end) ; sk next sc, dc in last sc.  Turn. 
This is a rep of Row 15.
So here your st count should be 4 dc and 2 ch-1 sps more than Row 15. (i.e 16 dc, 7 ch-1 sps)

Row 22 : dc in  1st dc ; ch 2, *dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ; ch 2*; rep *to* last ch-1 sp ; dc in last dc.  Turn. 
This is a rep of Row 16.
So here your st count should be 4 dc 4-tog and 2 ch-1 sps more than Row 16. (i.e 2 dc, 8 ch-2 sps, 7 dc 4-tog)

Note :At the end of each rep, you will have 2 flowers more than the previous rep row.

Row 23 : This is a rep of Row 17, so 6 sc more than Row 17. (25 sc, 3 ch)
Row 24 : This is a rep of Row 18 (27 sc)
Row 25 : This is a rep of Row 19 (27 sc, 3 ch)
Row 26 :  This is a rep of Row 20 (29 sc)
Row 27 : This is a rep of Row 21 (20 dc, 9 ch-1 sps)
Row 28 : This is a rep of Row 22 (2 dc, 10 ch-2 sps, 9 dc-4 tog)


FOR SYMMETRIC WRAP



Rep Rows 17 – 22, gradually increasing your width till you reach your desired width, ending with Row 22. 
I stopped increases after making 25 flowers, on reaching a length of 22” and a width of 18”

Decrease section
For convenience, I am going to renumber rows for decrease. 
So when you think you have sufficient length / width, you start decreases using these ideas.

Row 1 :  sc in 1st dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp,
and sc in each dc 4-tog till the ch-2 sp before the last dc 4-tog ;
sc in the 1st ch-sp ; sc 2-tog in the next ch-sp and the top of dc 4-tog. Turn.

Row 2 :sc in each sc till end.  Turn.  (no decrease)

Row 3 : sc in each sc till last 4 sc before end ;
sc 2-tog in next 2 sc, sk last 2 sc.  Turn.

Row 4 :sc in each sc till end.  Turn.  (no decrease)

Row 5 : dc in  1st sc ;
sk next sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
*sk 2 sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the 3rd last sc from end
(i.e till you are in the 3rd sc from end, and have 2 sc left till end) ;
sk sc, dc in last dc.  Turn. 

Row 6 :  dc in  1st sc ;
ch 2, *dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ; ch 2*;
rep *to* till last ch-1 sp ;
dc in last dc.  Turn. 

Rep Decrease Rows 1 – 6 (reducing 2 flowers with every rep) till you have 1 flower left.

Next row : sc in the 1stdc, sc in next ch-2 sp, sc 2-tog in next ch and top of dc 4-tog.  Turn.

Last row : sc in each sc till end. (3 sc)

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.


FOR ASSYMETRIC WRAP


Rep Rows 17 – 22, gradually increasing your width and length till you have 42 flowers or the size of wrap you desire that goes neatly around your neck, ending with Row 22.

For the asymmetric wrap, the side you’ve made your increases will go against your neck, so the pointed part of the triangle hangs in front of your neck, and the flowers then go diagonally across the shoulders and chest.


Next row : sc in each dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, and sc in each dc 4-tog till end.  Turn.

Row 2 :sc in each sc till end.  Turn. 


IDEAS FOR THE TWO-TONED WRAP
I have not had the time to make this, but it is on my list of things to do.  Read what I’ve said about this wrap (for color changes) at the top of this blog
Do share your creations with me and give me that push to get mine going too ;)  Cheers

General Instructions
1.        MC : is the Flower colour and CC is the Leaf colour
2.      Every time you change colours, make the change in the last yo and pull through, so that the colour you need is on your hk, and the other colour is just one st away
3.      Every row ensure that your un-used colour has come up to the row, by once again changing colours in the last yo and pull through, so that the un-used colour is at the end, and the colour you need (and are using) is also just one st away
4.     Do take a quick look at this blog for changing of colours. http://twinstitches.blogspot.in/2014/06/changing-colors-with-double-knot.html 
OR How to change colours while crocheting with multiple color yarns : http://www.diyhowto.org/tapestry-crochet-free-patterns/ 


Using CC : Start with ch 4.  

Row 1 :  (Using CC ) : sc in 2nd ch from hk, and next 2 ch.  Ch 3.  Turn.  (3 sc, ch 3)

Row 2 :  (Using CC ) : sc in 2nd ch from hk, and next ch ; sc in next 3 sc.  Turn.  (5 sc)

Row 3 :(Using CC ) :  dc in  1st sc ;
sk next sc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
sk next sc, dc in last sc.  Turn.  (4 dc, 1 ch-1 sp).  Attach MC.

Row 4 : (Using MC, taking CC along ) :  dc in 1st sc ;
ch 2, dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ;
ch 2 , dc in last..
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JADE SHELLED TOP

Let’s take a break from motifs and cute little crochet work and do something four ourselves, shall we?
Today we’ll work on a nice “V”-necked top that is worked from the chest up and then from the chest down.. so its both a top up and top down construction !

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this to any size. Just pay attention to the stitch count, and please read through all my detailed instructions.
May I add here that I take a lot of time, energy and care in ensuring that my write up has as many tips as I can give you.  I really cannot give you information on how many stitches you need for a particular size as that depends on your hook/yarn/looseness of work (tension wise) and body size. 
You do need to pick up your hook and work on the pattern first. 
Yes, if the pattern itself has typos, then do feel free to let me know – but please do go through the instructions and pick up that hook first.  Cheers.

So come along, let’s work on this beautiful creation together.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 225 gms of Sullivans cotton (Australia) knitting cotton with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians :The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Anchor knitting cotton.  Our lovely Indian Red rose knitting cotton, White rose knitting cotton , Pony cotton as well as Laura yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians :Among the other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons. 

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 34” (M/L)
This is only given to you to get a general idea of how much yarn you may need.  The yarn you require will depend on the size you’re making it to as well as the tension of your work

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level. 

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-starting-chain-to-knot-or-not/

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ .  In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet                            ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                             sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                      hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                               yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                     sc : Single crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)


Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.

For this pattern we will start at the chest, just under the bust, and work up towards the armhole, neck and shoulders.  We will then come back to this start line and work down for the length of the top.

Oh, and if you want the shelled pattern all the way to the top, you will work two rectangles – one each for the front and back.

You can make this to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right.

So for this top we will work a really simple lacy yoke and the shelled pattern is for the lower part of the top.
The beauty is that you can decide to work the lacy yoke for as far as you want OR you could decide to work the shelled pattern all the way to the top.

The stitch count for our shelled pattern is in multiples of 6 + 1

Now to start we will work a fsc row that is in multiples of the stitch count, but instead of going across the chest (like we usually do) but down from the yoke to the base of the top.  So this first fsc  row is for the length of your top from yoke down.  
Got it?


Start : with fsc in multiples of 6 + 1 for length you want your top from  yoke down.  Turn.

Our Shell stitch is 5 dc in the same st.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ;
(sk next 2 fsc, Shell st in the next fsc ; sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : 3 dc in the 1st sc ;
(sk next 2 dc, Shell st in the next sc ; sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till the last sc ; 3 dc in the last sc.  Turn.

Row 3 : sc in the 1st dc ;
(sk next 2 dc, Shell st in the next sc ; sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;
rep (to) till the end.  Turn.

and that’s our pattern done.  Easy peasy, right?



Now as we are working our pattern from left hand side to right hand side (of body or top) and making a rectangle, you will work the pattern for half the body width
Once again remember that you will work it for half the chest / bust or waist, depending on whichever is the largest measure.

OK, so rep Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the width needed.

For the last row, we will need to work a row of sc to finish.  Now this bit is a little tricky.  You need to neatly finish this end off ensuring you have the same number of stitches you started with.  You cannot work 1 sc per st for this last row as you will end up with way more stitches – but you can just skip every 3rd st or so and kind-of get it right. 
If you have a mathematical calculating mind, then you can count the number of shells you have across the row (say 15), then you know that you have 15 x 5 + 2 dc all through.  As you know the number of stitches you started with, you can then decide how many sts you need to skip when working this last row.  Not too bad, huh?  Come along then, finish up the two rectangles that will be front and back of your top.

Great job.  We’re  half way there.



Yoke :
The yoke bit is really easy.  
We’re  going to work a "V"-st which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

If you have worked the shelled pattern as a rectangle all the way to the top, you will skip this section and go straight to finishing instructions.

You can decide to work with a rectangle for the yoke or you can shape armhole.
In case you work a rectangle, then you will get a scooped neckline and a small sleeve that will fall automatically.

Remember that our shells are facing sideways. Now decide if your shells are facing left or right, and accordingly decide which is the top row for your rectangle.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 5 + 1

Row 1 :Run a row of sc all the way down.  Turn.

Row 2 :dc in the 1st sc ; (sk next 2 sc ; "V"-st in the next sc) ;
rep (to) till end.  Turn.

Row 3 :dc in the 1st dc ; 
(sk next dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) till end ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st sc ; sk next dc, "V"-st in the next dc ; 
(sk next 2 sts ; "V"-st in the next sts) ;

rep (to) till the last 2 sts ; 
sk the 2nd last st and dc in the last st.  Turn.

Rep Rows 3 & 4 for a nice lacy yoke.

Now in case you have worked without any shaping, all you now need to do is join the shoulders, leaving a neck opening.  Then join the sides, leaving an armhole opening.
You will get an automatic scooped out boat-like neck and a small Magyar-like sleeve that will fall over the shoulder.
Finish off the neckline and sleeve ends to get a lovely top.


Armhole Decrease ideas :
In case you want a shaped armhole then it’s a little trickier and a little more work.
a)   You need to decide how deep an armhole you want.  I usually like to keep a well-fitting top as a guide to get the shaping right.
b)   For the first decrease, skip the 1st 5 sts and continue with the lace pattern all the way till the end, and stop at the  5th st from end.
c)     In the next row, I suggest you work a dc 2-tog over the 1st two sts.  This should give you a nice shape.  Remember to do the same thing at the other end as you finish off.
d)   Once you have a neat shaped armhole, you need to continue working the lace yoke pattern all the way to the shoulders.


Neckline Decrease ideas :
In case you want a shaped neckline, then here’s what you do
a)   Decide how deep you want the neckline – once again that well fitting top comes in handy
b)   All you need to do is decide how deep you’re going for the neck, and mark the two sides for the neck.  You will then work the pattern all the way from the armhole to that marked stitch and back.  You will work this all the way to the shoulders for both sides of the neckline.



Sleeve idea :
The other thing you can do is work a small sleeve.  I had just a little yarn left, and that’s what I decided to do… and I worked our shell st pattern around.

If you do this, first you do need to run a row of sc all around.  In case you are working the shell st pattern, then you need to work sc in multiples of 6 and end by joining with a sl-st to the 1st st.

You then go back to the top of this blog to work out the shell stitch pattern.  The only difference is that you work in rounds for the sleeve and therefore will end with a sl-st in the 1stst.  Work this for as long as you want your sleeve.

I have decided to have a sliver of a sleeve, and so I skipped the first shell in each row, and worked in rows and not rounds. 

The last idea I have is that you work the same lacy pattern for the sleeve.  This is the simplest idea and will look really beautiful too.  Once again when you work your round of sc, you just join with a sl-st to the 1stst.  For this pattern, you will check what you did for the yoke portion of your top.
Ending the lacy sleeve with a picot or crab stitch will look lovely.  Remember to end with whatever you have used for the neckline for an even look.


Finishing ideas :
In case you have worked the shell pattern all the way through, then all you  need to do is attach the shoulders, leaving a neckline opening ; then attach the sides, leaving an armhole opening and you’ve got a really cool scooped boat-like neckline and a slight Magyar sleeved top ready to go.

No matter what neck or armhole you have chosen, a good finish is needed.
I’d suggest you run a row of sc all the way around and then you can either end with a picot stitch or crab stitch. 

Picot :(sc, ch 3, sl-st in same sc) all in the same st or ch-sp. 
Pl view instructions at http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-crochet-a-picot-stitch.htmlfor a refresher of what a 3-ch picot is.

How to do the crab stitch or reverse single crochet : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wE-ObvYb_Pk

Have fun and do remember to share my blog post when you show off your creation.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

It is sad that though my blogs are very popular and being used by so many, not many think of giving credit when you post your projects on social media. 
There is a lot of work that goes into writing one of these patterns, so do pay it forward – good karma and all that blah J

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern links) when you make your own fantastic creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/

OR just my free patterns at
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