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Happy Prime Day! Today (and tomorrow) is Amazon’s annual discount extravaganza. I have already found quite a few great discounts on yarn and yarn related items. And the deals aren’t only on Amazon. Most of the big box craft stores are offering big discounts today to compete with Amazon.

So here I’m listing some of the best deals I’ve found. Since Amazon is rolling out the deals at different times throughout the day today and tomorrow, I’ll continue to update this post. So check back!

This post may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase after clicking through I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

Amazon Prime Deals (only available to Prime members. If you’re interested in signing up for Amazon prime click here).

*Note that the ads below show the price before the discount, you’ll see the Prime price after clicking through.

Yarn Winder by Craft Destiny is $8.18 off right now. This highly rated yarn winder can transform skeins of yarn into cakes with a center or outside pull.

Lion Brand Wool-Ease Tick and Quick is 25% off:

Knit Picks Wool of the Andes yarn 10 Pack is $6 off right now in a variety of colors:

This cute yarn caddy contains storage compartments to hold yarn, hooks, scissors and more. $5.60 off:

This 12 piece yarn needle and embroidery set is $2.73 off:

Knit Picks wooden yarn bowl is $5 off:

Joann Fabrics is offering some massive discounts to compete with Amazon today and tomorrow. They’re also offering free shipping on their website.

Lion Brand Cake Yarn is 30% off – including Cupcake, Mandala, Shawl in a Cake.

Bernat Baby Yarn is 25% off.

Lion Brand Yarn is 25% off.

And up to 40% off all different yarn varieties.

20% off Clover Soft Touch crochet hooks

Michael’s is offering 20% off your entire purchase including sale items (a rare coupon for them) plus free shipping when you spend $39 or more. Use coupon code CYBER20W

AC Moore has buy 1 get 2 free Studio Stitch by Nicole yarn.

The post Prime Day Deals for Yarn Lovers 7/15/19 appeared first on Raidy's Crochet Corner.

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I am very excited to share another bag pattern with you today. This bag comes together beautifully by working “honeybomb” scallop-like stitches in the round. This modern and stylish bag could be used as a market bag, pool bag, yarn holding bag (my favorite) or even as an everyday tote bag.

If you would like to purchase a printable PDF version of this pattern please visit my shops below:

Etsy Listing Click Here

Ravelry Listing Click Here

I used 24/7 Cotton yarn for the first time for this design (not sponsored, I just really love this yarn). I cannot say enough positive things about it. It is sturdy thanks to mercerized cotton, it has an incredible sheen and it comes in a ton of beautiful colors. I originally made this bag in Aqua, which is a pretty light blue. But my husband suggested I make another one in a darker color so it doesn’t show stains when used as a market bag. So I made another one in the color Charcoal.

The handles for this bag are long enough so that you can wear it cross-body style or simply over one shoulder. If you’re holding some heavier items you can even tie the handles in a knot to keep it from drooping down too much.

Links in this post may contain Amazon Affiliate links. If you make a purchase after clicking through I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

If you would like to purchase a printable PDF version of this pattern please visit:

Etsy Listing by clicking here

Ravelry listing by clicking here

Materials:

Abbreviations and Stitches Used (US Terms):

CH – Chain

SLST – Slip Stitch

SC – Single Crochet – Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

SC Decrease – insert hook into 1st stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Size:

Pattern Notes:

  • This project is crocheted in the round. You will not turn work for the entire body portion. The only time you will turn work is while making the handles for the bag.
  • You will slip stitch into 1st SC after each round. You will SLST in 2 stitches after Row 2 and 1 stitch after Row 3. Using a stitch marker will help to keep track of the 1st stitch in each row.

Base

CH 53.

Row 1: 1 SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. 1 SC in the next 50 stitches across. 5 SC in the last CH. On the other side of the starting CH, 1 SC in the next 50 stitches across. 4 SC in the last CH (the base of the starting CH). (110 SC).

Row 2 – 7: Continue in rounds making 1 SC in each SC around. Place a stitch-marker on the 1st stitch made and replace it after each round. (110 SC in each round).

Body

Row 1: Remove stitch marker from previous round. 1SC in the next 3 stitches (replace stitch marker on the 1st SC). CH 5. Skip next 2 stitches. *1 SC in the next 3 stitches. CH 5. Skip next 2 stitches. Repeat * around. SLST into the 1st SC (the stitch with stitch-marker).

Row 2: (Continue in the round – do not turn) SC into the next stitch (replace stitch marker on that stitch). Skip next SC. 5 SC into the 5 CH space. Skip next SC. SC in the next stitch (the middle of the 3 SC). Skip next SC. 5 SC into the 5 CH space. Repeat *around until you reach the stitch marker. SLST into the stitch with stitch-marker. SLST into the next stitch.

Row 3: (Continue in the round – do not turn) SC in the next stitch (replace stitch marker on that stitch). SC in the next 2 stitches. CH 5. Skip next 3 stitches. *SC in the next 3 stitches. CH 5. Skip next 3 stitches. Repeat * around until you reach the stitch marker. SLST into that stitch.

Repeat Rows 2 – 3 for 32 rows (16 rows of “honeycomb” holes).

Cut yarn and fasten off.

Block work.

Decrease & SC Rows

Attach yarn with a slip stitch in any SC. 1 SC in 1st stitch. SC decrease over the next 2 stitches. *1 SC in the next stitch. SC decrease over the next 2 stitches. Repeat *around. (88 SC).

Continue in the round making 1 SC in each stitch around for an additional 3 rows.

Cut yarn and fasten off.

Handles

Counting from the inner most corner count 14 stitches where the 1st handle will go.

Row 1: Attach yarn with a SLST and SC across 14 stitches. CH 1, turn work.

Row 2: SC decrease over the next 2 stitches. SC in next 10 stitches. SC decrease over the last 2 stitches. Ch 1, turn. (12 SC)

Row 3 – 90: SC in each stitch across. CH 1, turn. (12 SC).

Row 91: 2 SC into the 1st stitch. SC across the next 10 stitches. 2 SC into the last stitch. (14 SC). Leave a long tail of yarn. Cut and fasten off yarn.

Attach handle to the opposite side of the bag by sewing the handle over 14 stitches.

Photo reference:

Step 1: CH 53. 1 SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. 1 SC in the next 50 stitches across. 5 SC in the last CH. On the other side of the starting CH, 1 SC in the next 50 stitches across. 4 SC in the last CH (the base of the starting CH). (110 SC).

Step 2: Continue in the round making 1 SC in each stitch for 6 additional rows.

Step 3: 1SC in the next 3 stitches. CH 5. Skip next 2 stitches. *1 SC in the next 3 stitches. CH 5. Skip next 2 stitches. Repeat *around. SLST into the 1st SC.

Step 4: SC into the next stitch (the middle of the 3 SCs from previous row). Skip next SC.

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Oh hey Summer! It’s officially here. It’s hot and sticky outside. The beach and pool are beckoning. And this cute cotton tote is ready to hold all of your essentials. This bag easily fits a towel, book, water bottle, sunglasses, thermos of margaritas, whatever you need!

I used Lily Sugar n’ Cream for these so they’re 100% cotton. And since this yarn has approximately 500 different color varieties, the possibilities are endless. This yarn also allows the bag to be nice a sturdy, so you could even use it as a market bag.


This pattern uses the bean stitch, which I also used in my cross-body crochet bag pattern last month. I really like the look of this stitch for bags. I find that this stitch provides a nice stretch. But with rows of single crochet on the bottom it has a nice sturdy base.

I made another How-To Jumprope video for this pattern for those of you visual learners:

How to Crochet a Summer Tote Bag - YouTube

This post includes Amazon Affiliate links. If you make a purchase after clicking through I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

Materials:

Lily Sugar n’ Cream Cotton Yarn – approximately 400 yard *
*I used just under 2 balls of the “Super Size”
Colors used in this post include: Blue Jeans, Hot Blue, Tangerine, Potpourri Ombre, and Ecru

5 mm crochet hook

scissors

tapestry needle

4 stitch markers


Abbreviations (US terms):

CH – Chain

SLST – Slip Stitch – insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through the stitch and the loop on hook.

SC – Single Crochet – Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Bean Stitch – Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into stitch and pull up another loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into stitch and pull up another loop (6 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. CH 1 and skip next stitch.

Approximate Finished Size:

Width: 15 inches

H: 21 inches (including straps)

Pattern Notes:

This pattern is worked in the round. You will slip stitch to the 1st stitch made, chain 1, and turn work after each row.

The chain 1 made after each slip stitch does not count as a stitch.

Pattern:

Step 1:

CH 7

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across. CH 1, turn. (6 SC)

Row 2 – 38: SC in each stitch across. CH 1, turn. (6 SC)

Step 2:

Make a SC border around all 4 sides of your work. Ensure that there are 38 SC down the long sides and 6 SC across the short sides. CH 1, turn work. (88 SC)

SC in each SC around. Ch 1, turn work. (88 SC).

(Change colors here if desired.)

Step 3:

*Bean stitch into the first SC, Ch 1, skip 1 stitch. Repeat * around. SLST into the 1st Bean stitch. Ch 1, turn. (44 Bean Stitches, 44 CH).

Repeat Step 3 until you have a total of 24 rows of bean stitches.

(Change colors here if desired.)

Step 4:

CH 1, turn work. SC around in each bean stitch and CH stitch. CH 1, turn. (88 SC)

SC again in each SC around (88 SC).

Step 5:

You will now mark where the straps will be placed. To do this lay the bag down flat. You’ll have 44 stitches on top and 44 stitches on the bottom. Starting from the stitch at the very end place a stitch marker on the 12th stitch. SKIP the next 20 stitches and place a stitch marker on the next stitch. SKIP the next 23 stitches and place a stitch marker on the next stitch. SKIP the next 20 stitches and place the last stitch marker on the next stitch.

Step 6:

CH 1, turn work.

SC in each stitch around until you reach the 1st stitch marker. Remove the stitch marker and SC in that stitch.

CH 45. Skip the next 20 stitches. SC in the stitch with the next stitch marker.

SC in the next 23 stitches. Remove next stitch marker and SC in that stitch.

CH 45. Skip the next 20 stitches. SC in the stitch with the last stitch marker.

SC until you reach the 1st SC made. SLST into 1st SC. CH 1, turn work.

Step 7:

SC in each SC and CH stitch around. Join to 1st SC with a slip stitch. CH 1, turn.

SC in each SC around once more.

Fasten off, cut yarn with a long tail and weave in ends.

To save this pattern to your Pinterest board click here or on the image below.

The post Hey Summer Tote Bag – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Raidy's Crochet Corner.

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Behold! The blanket you will find on my couch with me cuddled up (and most likely falling asleep under) every night for the foreseeable future. The crochet pattern for this large throw features a wave chevron with subtle texture achieved by double crocheting in the back loops only.

The yarn I used for this project was Color Made Easy by Lion Brand Yarn. I picked some up recently on sale. I originally planed to use the yarn to crochet a pillow cover, but once I started playing around with it I discovered that it’s a bit thicker/bulkier than I thought it was going to be. After a few failed attempts, I finally decided to see how it would look as a blanket. In my opinion, it is the perfect weight for a throw – neither too heavy or too light.

I also think this throw would make a wonderful wedding gift, especially if you use the couples’ wedding colors in the design. I have plans to make another one as a gift for a wedding I’ll be attending this fall.

I made another short video showing the steps to create this blanket with the app Jumprope. I hope you find this helpful, especially to see how the stitches go into the back loops only after Row 1.

How to Crochet a Chevron Wave Blanket - YouTube

Links below may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase after clicking through I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

If you would like to purchase a printable PDF version of the pattern (with a photo tutorial included), check out my Etsy listing here.

Materials:

3 skeins Color Made Easy in Millennial
3 skeins Color Made Easy in Alabaster
3 skeins Color Made Easy in Huckleberry
6.5 mm crochet hook
scissor
needle for weaving in ends

Abbreviations (US terms):

CH – Chain

DC – Double Crochet – yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through first 2 loops, yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops on hook.

DC2tog – Double crochet 2 together – yarn over and insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through first 2 loops on hook (2 loops on hook), yarn over and insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through first 2 loops on hook (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Approximate Finished Size:

Width: 45 “
Length: 75 “

Pattern notes:

Color A = Millennial
Color B = Alabaster
Color C = Huckleberry

The CH 3 counts as a double crochet throughout this pattern, however, in each row you will make a DC into the very first stitch next to the 3 chain. This is because each row begins with 2 DC in the first stitch and ends with 2 DC in the last stitch. The last 2 DC of the row will go into the top of the turning 3 CH.

The color changes occur in the following order: 2 rows Millennial, 1 row Alabaster, 2 rows Huckleberry, 1 row Alabaster, repeat….

To change colors I suggest you pull through new yarn on the last yarn over of the last double crochet in the row.

Pattern:

With Color A: CH 120 (or other multiple of 12 plus 3 for starting chain)

Row 1: DC in the 4th CH from the hook. *DC into the next 3 CH. DC2tog over the next 2 CH. DC2tog over the next 2 CH again. 1 DC in the next 3 chains. 2 DC in the next CH. 2 DC in the next CH again. Repeat * until there is 1 CH remaining. 2 DC into the last CH. CH 3, turn work.

Row 2: (You will make all of the following stitches into the BACK LOOPS ONLY.) 1 DC into the 1st stitch. *1 DC into the next 3 stitches. DC2tog over the next 2 stitches. DC2tog over the next 2 stitches again. 1 DC in the next 3 stitches. 2 DC in the next stitch. 2 DC in the next stitch again. Repeat * across each stitch in the row. 2 DC into the top of the turning 3 CH from previous row. CH 3, turn work.

Row 3: With Color B – Repeat Row 2.

Row 4-5: With Color C – Repeat Row 2.

Row 6: With Color B – Repeat Row 2.

Row 7-8: With color A – Repeat Row 2.

Continue the pattern until your blanket reaches the desired length.

To purchase a printable PDF version of this pattern from my Etsy shop click here.

To save this pattern on Pinterest click here or on the image below.

The post Cozy Wave Throw – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Raidy's Crochet Corner.

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This cotton shawl using the beautiful Iris Stitch is sure to be a staple piece in your Spring and Summer wardrobe. Or the wardrobe of whomever you make it for. It is light and soft and has the perfect drape.

I made this shawl for my Mother-in-law. She is a bit of a social butterfly. Always off to a wedding or a party or a cooking class or the theater. And as someone who is always cold, I understand the need for a good shawl even in the heat of summer. Because summer nights can be chilly and the air conditioning goes full blast basically everywhere indoors. Don’t even get me started on the air conditioning in office buildings. I once had a job where the AC was so cold I would literally run outside to warm up in the sun multiple times a day.

So while shopping at Michael’s recently, I spotted Caron Cotton Cakes in solid colors. Game. Changer. This yarn is so soft and so light. It works up nice and smoothly. I am obsessed.

The entire shawl uses the Iris Stitch (if you know how to chain and double crochet you can make this). This is a simple pattern to follow with 2 rows of lilac and 1 row of grey. The ends contain a row of small tassels for a sophisticated finish.

The links below contain Amazon Affiliate links. If you make a purchase from these links I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

Materials:

1 Caron Cotton Cake in Lilac
1 Caron Cotton Cake in Silver Cloud
5.5 mm crochet hook
scissor
needle for weaving in ends
tassel maker or piece of cardboard that is 2.75”


Abbreviations (US terms):

CH – Chain
DC – Double Crochet

Finished Size (approx):

Width: 16”
Length: 56”

Pattern notes:

Color A = Lilac
Color B = Silver Cloud

The “Iris Stitch” is used throughout this pattern. See below for photo tutorial.

The turning 3 CH counts as a DC throughout this pattern.

To change colors I suggest you pull through new yarn on the last yarn over of the last DC in the row.

Pattern:

With Color A:

Foundation chain: CH 55 (or other multiple of 4 +1, plus an additional 2 for starting chain)

Row 1: In the 5th chain from the hook (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) all in same stitch. *Skip the next 3 CH. (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) all in next stitch. Repeat * until there are 2 CH remaining. Skip 1 CH and DC in the last CH. CH 3, turn work.

Row 2: Skip the first 3 stitches. (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) all into the CH 1 space from the previous row. *Skip the next 4 stitches, (2 DC, Ch 1, 2 DC) all into the CH 1 space from the previous row. Repeat * across the row until there are 2 stitches remaining. Skip last 2 stitches and DC into the turning chain from previous row.

With COLOR B: CH 3, turn work.

Row 3 + : Repeat Row 2 until your work reaches 56″ or desired length. Use Color A for 2 rows then Color B for 1 row.

Tassels:

  1. Lay a loose piece of yarn (about 11 inches long) at the top of tassel maker set at 2.75 inches or a piece of cardboard the same length.
  2. Wrap new yarn around 11 times. Keep the loose ends out on the sides.
  3. Tie loose yarn tightly at the top.
  4. Pull yarn off tassel maker.
  5. Cut the loops at the bottom of the tassel.
  6. Take another loose piece of yarn (about 10 inches long) and knot tightly a little below the top of the tassel. Flip tassel over and knot tightly on the other side.
  7. Tie each tassel to 1 CH space from each Iris stitch.
  8. Weave loose ends through the tassel. Trim evenly.

Photo tutorial:

Step 1: Start with a slip stitch and CH 55.

Step 2: DC into the 5th CH from the hook.

Step 3: DC again into the same stitch.

Step 4: CH 1

Step 5: 2 DC again into the same CH.

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Today I am sharing a crochet pattern for a super quick cross-body crochet bag. This bag is the perfect size to fit a few essentials: phone, wallet, keys, sunglasses. It has a modern look that you could wear with almost any outfit. And by using thick stretchy yarn it comes together so quickly you may find yourself making one in every color you can get your hands on.

I designed this bag because I was in need of a small bag to hold my phone and  keys while out with my kids. Although I no longer need a diaper bag, I still have a rather big everyday bag that holds snacks, water bottles and endless little toys and crayons that mysteriously appear out of nowhere. But if I am just going out for a quick walk to the playground or school drop-off, this little bag is all I need.

I also made my first crochet video for this pattern! A few weeks ago I read about a new app called Jumprope that helps you make a step-by-step video tutorials. And I’m so glad I looked into it. It was super easy to do. I hope you find the video helpful. If so, I’m definitely going to be making more of these for future patterns.

The pink bag above I made for my daughter with Lion’s Brand Feels Like Butta yarn. I adjusted the pattern slightly since this yarn is thinner than the Bernat Home Dec

How to Crochet a Cross-Body Bag - YouTube

The products listed below may contain Amazon Affiliate links. If you make a purchase I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

Materials:

1 skein Bernat Maker Home Dec (pictured in this post are the colors cream and aqua)
8 mm crochet hook
Large Tapestry Needle
Scissor


Special Stitches:

Single Crochet Decrease: Insert hook into 1st stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Bean Stitch: *Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into stitch and pull up another loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into stitch and pull up another loop (6 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. CH 1 and skip next stitch. Repeat * to the end of the row. CH 2 (once to close the stitch, once again for turning chain) and turn work. Repeat * with the first bean stitch going into the bean stitch from the previous row.

Starting chain: Chain 22 (or any odd number plus 1 chain)

Row 1: SC in the second chain from the hook and each stitch across. CH 1 (does not count as a stitch) and turn work.

Row 2 +: Continue to SC in rows until your work is about 11 inches in length. For me this was 28 rows. CH 1, turn work.

Decrease row: Make a 1 SC decrease (in the first 2 stitches of the row). SC in the next 17 stitches across until 2 stitches remain. Make 1 SC decrease (in the last 2 stitches of the row). Ch 1, turn.

Bean Stitches for purse flap: *Bean stitch into the first stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch. Repeat * across the row ending with a bean stitch in the last stitch. Ch 1 to close the stitch then CH 1 again and turn work.

*Make a bean stitch into the bean stitch from previous row. CH 1, skip 1 stitch. Repeat * for a total of 6 rows.

Stitch sides together: Fold the bottom half your work up to the last row of SC (before the SC decrease row). With a long piece of yarn, stitch the right sides together. Repeat with the left side. Weave-in ends.

Purse Strap: CH 100 (or however long you’d like the strap to be). SLST into the 2nd chain from the hook and each CH across. Cut yarn. Stitch the ends of the strap to the purse.

Weave-in ends. Turn the bag inside out. Enjoy!

Save to Pinterest by clicking below:

The post Cross-Body Crochet Bag – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Raidy's Crochet Corner.

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Ever since I made the  Heart Granny Square as blanket for an anniversary gift, I couldn’t stop thinking about how it would look as a baby blanket.

I decided to try it out with some baby yarn and I am so thrilled with how it turned out. It has the classic granny square look with a modern twist.

Materials:

1 skein Bernat Baby Sport Yarn in Baby Blue
1 skein Bernat Big Ball Sport Yarn in Baby Ecru
4 mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle
Scissor

Abbreviations: (US terminology):

CH – chain
SC – single crochet
HDC – half double crochet

Pattern:

First follow this pattern for the Heart Granny Square using baby blue yarn for Row 1. Then use Baby Ecru yarn for Rows 2 – 5.

Then use the baby blue yarn to make a row of SC around each square. In each corner 2 SC, Ch 1, 2 SC.

I made 25 squares and connected them together using the Whip Stitch method. The photos below show how to complete this.

Photo Tutorial:

Step 1: Start with making 25 Heart Granny Squares following this pattern. Then make a row of SC around each square. 2 SC, ch 1, 2 SC in each corner space.

Step 2: Take two squares and place them together right side up (I confess: I didn’t pay close enough attention a few times and stitched some squares with the hearts upside down. The curse of watching The Office reruns while crocheting!)

Step 3: Place two squares on top of each other with the backsides facing together on the inside.

Step 4: Take a piece of yarn about 4 inches longer than the square and thread it through a tapestry needle. Put the needle into the top 1 ch corner space.

Step 5: Push the needle through the 1 ch space in both the top and bottom squares (make sure to match the stitches up).

Step 6: Pull the yarn through leaving a few inches of yarn to weave in.

Step 7: Match up the next stitch on both squares and push needle through the top square and then through the corresponding stitch on the bottom square.

Step 8: Pull yarn all the way through the stitches.

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This April my parents will be married 40 years. To celebrate this big milestone I knew I wanted to give them a special gift.

I turned to crochet, of course, because handmade gifts are the best gifts. I tried lots of different ways to incorporate 40 into a blanket. A corner to corner blanket with the number 40 in the middle? A blanket with 40 different stripes?

Nothing really felt right until I found a way to incorporate a heart for every year. Thus, this heart granny square pattern was born.

I’m still putting the finishing touches on the blanket. But, in the meantime, I thought I’d share the pattern for the square itself. Once the blanket is finished and delivered I will add a separate post. I’ll share how I crocheted all the squares together and added a border.

You can adjust this pattern to be as big or small as you’d like. After round 2 the pattern repeats with 4 increases per side. If I was making these for a baby blanket I’d probably stop at round 5 or 6.

Below I list the materials I used for this project. But you can use any type of yarn with the corresponding hook size.

If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, high-quality PDF version of this pattern, check out my Etsy listing here.

Links below contain affiliate links.

Materials:

Lion Brand Feels like Butta yarn in Pink
Lion Brand Feels like Butta in Pale Grey
Lion Brand Feels like Butta in White
4 mm crochet hook
tapestry needle
scissors


Note on Magic circle Vs. Chain circle:

I made my heart granny square by starting with a magic circle. I found this to be the best way because it allows you to pull the middle of the heart nice and tight. However, if you have trouble or aren’t comfortable with the magic circle, you can start with a chain circle. For regular granny squares I usually chain 4 and slip stitch into the 4th chain from the hook. However, with this project, I recommend you chain 3 and slip stitch into the 3rd chain from the hook. This will be a little tight but it will ensure that the heart doesn’t have a big opening in the middle.

Abbreviations:

SLST: Slip Stitch
CH – Chain
SC – Single crochet (insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.)
HDC – Half Double Crochet (Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook).
DC – Double crochet (Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.)
TC – Treble crochet (yarn over 2 times, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through next 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops on hook.)

Round 1:
Start with a magic circle (or if you prefer CH 3 and SLST into the 3rd CH from hook to form a circle).
Ch 2
*The following stitches all go INTO the circle*
3 TC
4 DC
1 TC
4 DC
3 TC
Ch 2 and SLST into the circle.
Pull the yarn tight to close the circle (if using magic circle). Fasten off pink yarn leaving a long tail to weave in.


Round 2:

Attach grey yarn by tying a knot into the center of the heart. Insert hook into the center of the heart and pull up a loop.
CH3 (Counts as a stitch)
TC into the same spot in the center of the heart.
SC into the next stitch (which was the first TC from the previous round)
SC, Ch 2, SC all into the next stitch (this makes the 1st corner space)
SC into the next 2 stitches
HDC into the next stitch
DC into the next stitch
DC, Ch 2, DC all into the next stitch (this makes the 2nd corner)
4 DC all into the next stitch (This was the TC from previous row)
DC, Ch 2, DC all into the next stitch (this makes the 3rd corner)
DC into the next stitch
HDC into the next stitch
SC into the next 2 stitches
SC, Ch 2, SC all into the next stitch (this makes the 4th corner)
SC into the next stitch
SLST into the top of the starting 3 Ch.

(Each side of the square should now have 6 stitches, 24 stitches total)

Round 3:

Ch 3 (counts as DC)
1 DC into the next 3 stitches
2 DC, CH 2, 2 DC all into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 6 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 6 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 6 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 2 stitches
SLST into the top of the starting 3 CH.

(Each side of the square should now have 10 DC, 40 total)

Round 4:

Ch 3 (counts as DC)
1 DC into the next 5 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 10 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 10 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 10 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 4 stitches
SLST into the top of the starting 3 CH

(Each side of the square should now have 14 DC, 56 total)

Round 5:

Ch 3 (counts as DC)
1 DC into the next 7 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 14 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 14 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 14 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 6 stitches
SLST into the top of the starting 3 CH

(Each side of the square should now have 18 DC, 72 total)

Fasten off grey yarn (or white yarn)

Round 6:

Attach new yarn with a knot into any corner space. Pull up a loop.
Ch 3 (counts as DC)
1 DC, CH 2, 2 DC into the same corner space
1 DC into the next 18 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 18 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 18 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 18 stitches
SLST into the top of the starting 3 CH

(Each side of the square should now have 22 DC, 88 total)

Round 7:

Ch 3 (counts as DC)
1 DC into the next stitch
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 22 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 22 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 22 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 20 stitches
SLST into the top of the starting 3 CH

(Each side of the square should now have 26 DC, 104 total)

Round 8:

Ch 3 (counts as DC)
1 DC into the next 3 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 26 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 26 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 26 stitches
2 DC, 2 CH, 2 DC into the 2 CH space (the corner space) from previous row
1 DC into the next 22 stitches
SLST into the top of the starting 3 CH

(Each side of the square should now have 30 DC, 120 total)

Photo Tutorial:

1. Start with a magic circle. If you’re not comfortable with the magic circle you can chain 3 and slip stitch into the 3rd chain from hook to form a circle.

2. Chain 2

3. Make 3 treble crochets into the circle.

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If you would like to purchase an inexpensive printable PDF version of this pattern (with all photo tutorials included) please check out my listing on Etsy here.

I am so excited to share a free crochet pattern for this dreamy blanket today. This pattern utilizes a variety of stitches that result in a beautiful mixture of color and texture.

I designed this blanket as a gift for my niece on her 5th birthday. She is a total girly girl and loves all things pink and frilly. I wanted this blanket to have a fairy-tale like quality. The look and colors were inspired by her favorite princess: Aurora from Sleeping Beauty. In fact, she spent her 5th birthday in Disney World being dressed up as Aurora at the Bippity Boppity Boutique.

Three different types of half double crochet are used in this pattern. Each color block has either half double crochet in-between the posts, half double crochet in front loops only or herringbone half double crochet. The blocks are separated by two rows of white bobble stitches.

This pattern is also enjoyable to follow if you are like me and get tired repeating the same stitch over and over. The stitches change enough to keep you engaged without being too difficult to keep track of.

These 3 different half double crochet stitches all have different lengths. So to make each color block about the same size, each block has a different number of rows. The HDC in-between the posts has 13 rows. The HDC in front loop only has 11 rows. And the herringbone HDC has 15 rows. This makes the blocks of color about even in length and also allows the bobble stitches to all “pop” out on the same side.

*Links below contain affiliate links*

Matterials:

2 skeins Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in Dusty Pink
2 skeins Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in Pale Grey
2 skeins Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in Pink
3 skeins Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in White
4 mm crochet hook
tapestry needle
scissor
tassel maker or piece of cardboard

*There is also a version of this yarn that comes in bigger size (9.7 oz), if you use this size you only need 1 skein in each color and 2 skeins in white.

Abbreviations:

CH – chain
SC – single crochet
HDC – half double crochet

Stitches:

Photo reference for these 3 different HDC stitches can be found at the bottom of this post.

Half Double Crochet in-between posts: SC into first stitch of the row. Yarn over and insert hook into the space in-between the posts of the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook. SC into the last stitch of the row.

Half Double Crochet front loop only: Yarn over and insert hook under only the front loop of the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Herringbone half double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch AND the first loop on the hook, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook.

Bobble Stitch: Yarn over and insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook. *Yarn over and insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through first two loops.* Repeat * 3 more times. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops on hook.

Foundation Half Double Crochet: Chain 2, yarn over and insert hook into 2nd chain from the hook, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over and pull through 1 loop (this is considered the first chain made), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook (first HDC made). Yarn over and insert hook under the 2 loops of the “chain” made, yarn over and pull through stitch, yarn over and pull through 1 loop (next chain made) yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

*Note: If you have difficulty using the foundation HCD method to start this pattern, you can chain 119 instead. But please note you need to chain very loosely. You will also need to count the chain row as a HDC row (So instead of 13 rows in the first round, you will only make 12 rows of HDC). This is so that the bobble stitches will all be facing the same side throughout the blanket.

Pattern:

(The turning chains do not count as stitches throughout this pattern)

With pink yarn:

Row 1: Foundation HDC 119 times. (If you want to make this blanket bigger or smaller make sure to use an odd number of stitches.)
Row 2 – 13: CH 1 turn work. 1 SC into the first stitch, HDC in-between the posts of every stitch across the row. SC into the last stitch. (13 rows) (see photo below for reference)

When you reach the last SC of row 13, pull through white yarn on last yarn over of the stitch. Cut light pink yarn with enough length to weave in.

With white yarn:

Row 14: CH 1 and turn work. SC into first stitch, *Bobble stitch into next stitch, SC into next stitch.* Repeat * to * across row ending with a SC in the lat stitch.
Row 15: Ch 1 and turn work. SC into each stitch across the row.
Row 16: CH 1 and turn work. SC into first stitch, *Bobble stitch into next stitch, SC into next stitch.* Repeat * to * across row ending with a SC in the lat stitch.

When you reach the last SC of row 16, pull through light grey yarn on last yarn over of the stitch. Cut white yarn with enough length to weave in.

With light grey yarn:

Row 17 – 27 : CH 2 turn work. HDC into the front loop only of each stitch across. (11 rows)

When you reach the last stitch of row 27, pull through white yarn on last yarn over of the stitch. Cut light grey yarn with enough length to weave in.

With white yarn:

Row 28-30: Repeat rows 14-16

When you reach the last SC of the 2nd bobble row, pull through dusty pink yarn on the last yarn over of the stitch. Cut white yarn with enough length to weave in.

With dusty pink yarn:

Row 31 – 45: Ch 2, turn work. Herringbone HDC into each stitch across. (15 rows)

Repeat pattern 2 more times.

Edging & Tassels:

With white yarn, SC evenly across all ends of the blanket. In each corner SC, CH 2, SC.

For the tassels I used a tassel maker with 3.75” length.
First lay a loose piece of yarn at the top of tassel maker, then wrap white yarn around 70 times. Tie loose yarn tightly at the top. Gently pull yarn off tassel maker. Take another loose piece of yarn and wrap around tassel 3 times. Knot tightly and weave ends of yarn through the tassel. Cut bottom loops of the tassel and trim evenly.

Make 4 tassels and tie tightly in each corner (in the 2CH space) of the blanket. Weave ends into the tassel with a needle.

Photo Reference for stitches used in this pattern:

Half double crochet in-between posts:

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