Loading...

Follow Make & Do Crew Blog on Feedspot

Continue with Google
Continue with Facebook
or

Valid

Like your favorite pair of jeans, this cotton free crochet shawl pattern is full of texture and shades of beautiful blue. Get the free pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here.


Thanks to Lion Brand Yarns for providing the yarn for this free crochet shawl pattern. This post contains affiliate links.

Welcome back to the Make & Do Crew guest designer series. While I’m getting to know the newest baby in our family, Ashley from Montana Crochet is sharing her free crochet shawl pattern with us today! You can see lots of of Ashley’s crochet patterns her blog, Montana Crochet. And be sure to check her out on Instagram too. Ashley, take it away!

The Inspiration for My Crochet Shawl Pattern

Hey y’all, Ashley from Montana Crochet here!! I am beyond ecstatic to have this opportunity to share my pattern with you today, and I can hardly wait to see everyone’s finished makes! The Great Falls Shawl was born out of my love for the local history and heritage that is here in Great Falls, Montana. (Here comes a mini history lesson, so bear with me friends…I promise I won’t drone on too long!)

When Lewis & Clark were making their journey West across the United States in search for a route to the Pacific, they discovered what is now called the “Great Falls of the Missouri”. It is reported in their journals that they could hear the falls as far as seven miles away, and when Lewis finally reached the falls, he stared in awe at “a sublimely grand spectacle… the grandest sight I had ever held.”

When I personally first saw the falls, I had a moment of pure awe and wonder as well. The sound they make as the water crashes across the dam and flows down the layers of shale below…you can feel it deep in your chest. It really is a spectacular feeling and sight to see!

When it came to designing this shawl, I had those falls in mind. It’s great piece for wrapping up in if you’re headed out for a day shopping with girlfriends, but can also be perfect for a walk down to your local coffee shop, or even a hike in the woods! (Y’all know I’ll be wrapped up in this baby come summertime sitting by the campfire, too!)

Master a New Stitch in this Free Crochet Shawl Pattern

The pattern itself requires some basic knowledge of crochet stitches, but also will introduce you to some shaping and a stitch that has become a favorite of mine, the Horizontal Puff stitch. The Horizontal Puff stitch adds a dimension that I found perfect for the design, and I know you’ll love it as much as I do!

I would consider the Great Falls Shawl an intermediate pattern, but if you’re an adventurous beginner, I’d definitely give it a go!

Your Favorite Pair of Jeans in a Yarn

Also, I just have to say, using the Lion Brand Collection Cotton Jeans yarn couldn’t have been more on point for this. The softness, the drape, and the richness of the colors that they offer had me swooning the entire time I worked it up! The Classic and Deep Indigo blues I used reminded me so much of the waters that run in the Missouri River, and the Grey was a perfect representation of the waters as they cascade down the falls. Make sure you put Cotton Jeans at the top of the yarns to get a hold of soon, cause it’s FABULOUS!!

I hope y’all enjoy having a little piece of what makes Montana so special, in your lives. My heart will always be rooted deeply here, but it’s because of people like you who see something special in designs like this, that really fill my heart with joy.

More Free Crochet Shawl + Scarf Patterns

Ready to keep your crochet rollin’ and whip up another scarf? You will love these free crochet scarf and shawl patterns that are perfect for transitioning seasons. Many of them are beginner-friendly and include video tutorials!


1. At First Blush Triangle Scarf // 2. Revival Triangle Scarf // 3. Whisper Triangle Scarf // 4. Dawn till Dusk Triangle Scarf

Great Falls
Free Crochet Shawl Pattern

Purchase the ad-free printable PDF with stitch charts here.

Explanation:
The Great Falls Shawl is the perfect asymmetrical shawl to accessorize with through these spring and summer temperatures and cool evenings! It starts from one point and continues to grow until the final edge is added – a unique finishing touch that makes this piece stand out! Using Cotton Jeans by Lion Brand, it’s an intermediate crochet design ideal for those adventurous beginners who are looking to expand their crochet knowledge and techniques!

Supplies:
Lion Brand LB Collection Cotton Jeans (Weight: 3/Light – 218 yds, 3.5 oz.)
Grey Fade (#474-150) –  1 ball
Classic Indigo (#474-109) – 2 balls
Deep Indigo (#474-110) – 2 balls
Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle

Sizes/Measurements:
• One Size – Shawl measures approx. 50” x 38” (127 cm x 97 cm)

Gauge:
• Not necessary

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
SC2TOG – Insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

HDC2TOG – Yarn over, insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop. Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 5 loops on hook.

DC2TOG – Yarn over insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop. Draw through 2 loops. Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch and draw up a loop. Draw through 2 loops. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

HZPUFF – Yarn over, insert hook around previous DC and draw up a loop. (Working around the previous DC, yarn over and pull up a loop to the height of a DC) 3 more times. Yarn over and pull through all 9 loops on hook.

Overall Pattern Notes:
• You will be increasing by one stitch each row. (Make sure your row counts are always reflecting that.)

• Indented rows are rows that you will repeat throughout the pattern. I have indented them so that they are easier to refer to, as needed.

• When working your increases into the last stitch of a row, work your first stitch in the top of the last stitch, and your second stitch into the chain from the previous row. This will help your edge maintain a cleaner look throughout your project.

• Chart and detailed stitch counts for each row can be found by downloading the PDF *HERE*

Row 1: With I hook and color A, CH 4. HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in the remaining 2 CH. (3HDC)

Row 2: CH 2, turn. HDC in the first 2 ST. 2 HDC in the last ST. (4 HDC)

Row 3: CH 2, turn. 2 HDC in the first 2 ST. HDC2TOG using the next HDC and CH 2 from previous row. (5 HDC)

Row 4: CH 2, turn. HDC in each ST across until the last st. 2 HDC in the last ST. (6 HDC)

Row 5: CH 2, turn. 2 HDC in the first 2 ST. HDC2TOG using the next HDC and CH 2 from previous row. (7 HDC)

Rows 6 – 21: Repeat rows 4 and 5, 8 times. (Make sure you’re ending with a row 5)

Row 22: CH 3, turn. *DC, skip 1 ST, CH 1* across until the last ST. 2 DC in the last

ST. (13 DC, 11 CH)

Row 23: CH 3, turn. 2 DC in the first 2 ST. DC in each CH and DC across until only 2

ST remain. DC2TOG using next CH and CH 2 from previous row. (You’ll be skipping

that last DC of the row) (25 DC)

Row 24: Repeat row 22. (14 DC, 12 CH)

Row 25: Repeat row 23, changing to color B as you pull through your last ST. (27 DC)

Row 26: CH 1, turn. SC in each DC across until the last st. 2 SC in the last ST. (28 SC)

Row 27: CH 1, turn. 2 SC in each of the first 2 SC. SC in each SC across until only 2

ST remain. SC2TOG using the next SC and the CH 1 from the previous row, changing

to color C as you pull through your last ST. (29 SC)

Row 28: CH 3, turn. DC in 1st DC. *CH 1, SK next DC, DC in next ST. HZPUFF around last DC.* Repeat from * to * 13 times. CH 1, 2 DC in the last ST, changing to color B as you pull through your last ST. (3 DC, 13 HZPUFF, 14 CH)

Row 29: CH 1, turn. 2 SC in each of the first two DC. SC in each CH and HZPUFF across until your last CH and ST remain. SC2TOG using the CH and CH3 from previous row. (31 SC)

Row 30: Repeat Row 26, changing to color A as you pull through your last ST. (32 SC)

Row 31: CH 3, turn. 2 DC in the first 2 ST. DC in each SC across until only 2 ST

remain. DC2TOG using the next SC and CH 1 from previous row. (33 DC)

Row 32: CH 3, turn. *DC, CH 1, SK next DC* across until the last ST remains. 2 DC

in the last ST. (18 DC, 16 CH)

Row 33: CH 3, turn. 2 DC in the first 2 ST. DC in each CH and DC across until only

2 ST remain. DC2TOG using the next CH and CH 2 from previous row. (35 DC)

Row 34: Repeat row 32, changing to color B as you pull through your last ST.

(19 DC, 17 CH)

Row 35: CH 2, turn. 2 HDC in the first 2 DC. HDC in each CH and DC across until only 2 ST remain. HDC2TOG using the next CH and CH 2 from previous row. (37 DC)

Row 36: CH 2, turn. HDC in each ST across until the last ST. 2 HDC in the last ST.

(38 HDC)

Row 37: CH 2, turn. 2 HDC in the first 2 ST. HDC in each ST across until only 2

ST. remain. HDC2TOG using the next HDC and CH 2 from previous row. (39 HDC)

Rows 38 – 49: Repeat rows 36 & 37, 6 times.

Rows 50 – 53: Repeat rows 22 & 23, twice, changing to color C as you pull through the final ST of row 53.

Rows 54 & 55: Repeat rows 26 & 27, changing to color A as you pull through your final ST.

Row 56: Repeat row 28, changing to color C as you pull through your last ST. (3DC, 27 HZPUFFS, 28 CH)

Rows 57 – 59: Repeat rows 29 & 30, ending with a row 29, changing to color A as you pull through your final ST of row 59.

Rows 60 – 63: Repeat rows 56 through 59, changing colors as suggested.

Rows 64 – 66: Repeat rows 28 through 30, changing colors as suggested, and then changing to color B as you pull through the final ST of row 30.

Rows 67 – 70: Repeat rows 31 through 34, changing to color C as you pull through your final ST of row 34.

Row 71: Repeat row 35. (73 HDC)

Rows 72 – 85: Repeat rows 36 & 37, 7 times.

Rows 86 – 89: Repeat rows 22 & 23, twice – changing to color A as you pull through your final ST of row 89.

Rows 90 & 91: Repeat rows 26 & 27, changing to color B as you pull through the last ST of row 91.

Row 92: Repeat row 28, changing to color A as you pull through the last ST. (3 DC, 45 HZPUFFS, 46 CH)

Rows 93 – 95: Repeat rows 29 & 30, ending with a row 29, changing to color B as you pull through your final ST of row 95.

Rows 96 – 107: Repeat rows 92 through 95, 3 times, changing colors as suggested, and changing to color B as you pull through the final stitch of row 107.

Row 108: Repeat row 28, changing to color A as you pull through your last ST. (3 DC, 53 HZPUFFS, 54 CH)

Rows 109 & 110: Repeat rows 29 & 30, changing to color C as you pull through the last ST of row 110.

Rows 111 – 114: Repeat rows 31 – 34, changing to color B as you pull through the final ST of row 114.

Row 115: CH 2, turn. 2 HDC in each of next 2 DC. HDC in each CH and DC across until your last CH and ST remain. HDC2TOG using the CH and CH 3 from the previous row. (117 HDC)

Rows 116 & 117: Repeat rows 36 & 37.

Continue to Edging

EDGING:

Row 1: CH 2, DO NOT TURN. (You will now be working along the outside edge of the shawl and into the stitches and chains.) HDC twice in the first row. Then, place 1 HDC in each SC and HDC row, and 2 HDC in each DC row for a total of 151 ST along the edge.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in each HDC across. (151 SC)

Row 3: CH 2, turn. (CH 2 counts as a ST) HDC in each SC across. (151 HDC)

Row 4: CH 1, turn. SC in each HDC across until you get to the last HDC in the row. 3 SC in the last HDC. Working into the stitches of rows 1 through 3 of the edging, SC in each row (3 SC total) and then SC in each SC of row 117, until the end. (150 SC, 3 SC in corner, 122 SC)

FASTEN OFF AND WEAVE IN ENDS.

Thanks again to Ashley of MontanaCrochet.com for sharing this free crochet shawl pattern! Be sure to check out Ashley’s blog for lots more free modern and Montana-y crochet patterns!

More Free Modern Crochet Shawls + Scarves Patterns

If you loved this free crochet shawl pattern, here are a few more free crochet shawls and scarves patterns that are most loved by M&DC crocheters.

1. Rising Tide Asymmetrical Shawl – This elegant asymmetrical crochet triangle shawl pattern is simple to follow and fun to wear year round. Includes video tutorial!

2. Newsprint Shawl – Put a modern spin on a crochet classic with this simple crochet granny stitch shawl! Beginner-friendly and so, so cozy.

3. Hideaway Cowl – The ribbed-knit look on this free crochet infinity scarf pattern is extremely easy, thanks to a slight variation on basic crochet stitches. Perfect for beginners!

4. C2C Nordic Super Scarf –  Whether you live in the North Pole or just want to jump on the super scarf trend, this nordic crochet super scarf pattern will keep you feeling warm, but lookin’ hot all winter long.

The post Free Crochet Puff Stitch Shawl Pattern by Montana Crochet appeared first on Make & Do Crew.

  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 

This quick, sturdy cotton bag makes a perfect crochet lunch bag or purse for a child. Get the free pattern below. 

Thanks to Lion Brand Yarns for providing the yarn for this free kid’s crochet purse or lunchbox pattern. This post contains affiliate links.

Welcome back to the Make & Do Crew guest designer series. While I’m getting to know the newest baby in our family, Tae from Tying An End is sharing her free kid’s crochet purse and lunchbox pattern with us today! You can see lots of of Tae’s crochet patterns her blog, Tying An End and Etsy. And be sure to check her out on social media too: Instagram. Tae, take it away!

The Inspiration for My Crochet Lunch Bag Pattern

I have a day job where I usually bring my own lunch. I wish I made 6 figures so I could order delicious food from nearby restaurants and didn’t need to worry about how much I spend, but that’s not how it’s gonna work.

I used to carry my lunch in one of those typical plastic shopping bags. As we all know, those plastic bags do not last that long. After several times using them, they start to tear and rip. I almost lost my chopsticks because it dropped through a hole. I pretty much got sick of using the plastic bag to carry my lunch, so I switched to a small bag that my sister was not using. I wish the bag was blue because that’s my favorite color, but it was pink because that’s her favorite color.

Recently I’ve been more aware about our environment. I used to drink water from plastic bottles instead of using my own water bottle. I used to get plastic bags for shopping when I could just carry items in my bag. There are many other action steps that we can do to save our environment, and they can be small action, one step at a time. I know it’s not easy to completely stop using plastics; it’s definitely hard for me. I hope this bag can help reduce the need to use a plastic bag!

A Crochet Lunch Bag Pattern That’ll Expand Your Skills
This pattern requires basic skills of crochet and little bit more advanced knowledge. Since it’s a bag with a flat bottom, you also need to know how to crochet in round.
Typically when working in round, it calls out to work in both loops, but I find working in front loop only makes the finished piece look much cleaner. Also by trying out my pattern, you will learn how working in the front loops looks different than and back loops.
Machine Washable Yarn is a Must

I used Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton yarn, and I love it! It is 100% mercerized cotton so it’s smooth, doesn’t pill, and great colors even after multiple wash cycles. I wanted the yarn to be machine wash friendly as well as firm and sturdy in the finished piece, and this yarn is perfect for that. I know this bag will go through the wash multiple times so I wanted the bag to be easy to take care of.

What I also love about this yarn is the color options. There are 24 color options available and you would need to choose 2 colors for this pattern, so that means there are 300 color combinations to choose from! That’s a lot of options! I had hard time choosing the colors for myself because I wanted to try every other color. With this wide range of color options to choose from, I’m sure you can find the color combination you like.

More Free Bag + Purse Crochet Patterns

Looking for more modern crochet purse patterns? Check out these free crochet purse and bag patterns.

1. Urban Nomad Bag // 2. Miller Bag // 3. Street Fair Purse // 4. Moonrise Bag

Everyday Lunch Bag
Free Crochet Pattern

Explanation:
I used to carry my lunch box in a plastic shopping bag. It only lasted for short period of time, so I needed a bag that would fit my lunch box as well as looking stylish. Also I wanted to help save our planet one step at a time by switching from plastic bag to more eco friendly bag. Now I introduce you Everyday Lunch Bag! It is made with 24/7 Cotton from Lion Brand, which is mercerized cotton with soft, smooth texture and great color options! This bag is made with 2 strands so you can mix 2 different colors or go simple solid color. If you know the basics of crochet, it should be fairly easy! Level: Advanced-Beginner ~ Intermediate

Supplies:
• Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (weight: 4/medium – 186 yards, 3.5 oz)
Pictured below:
Aqua (#761-102) – 2 balls
White (#761-100) – 2 balls
Size H (5.5 mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers
• Scissors

Sizes/Measurements:
• 6″ by 4.5″, 8.75″ tall

Gauge:
• 16 SC x 15 Rows = 4″ x 4″

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
CH – chain stitch
SC – single crochet
HDC – half double crochet
DC – double crochet
FPTC – front post treble crochet
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only
SL ST – slip stitch

Overall Pattern Notes:
• You will be working with 2 strands together for the base and handle. Only 1 strand for the cover.

• You will be working with joined rounds.

• Number in [ ] indicates number of stitches in that round/row.

• CH 2 in beginning of each round (Round 9~18 of base and Round 1~16 of cover) DOES NOT count as HDC.

• I recommend leaving a stitch marker on each corner so that you can tell easily where the corner is.

• A bag will stretch out so if you use container little bigger than 6″x4.5″, it shouldn’t be much of a problem. — I normally use 4 cup (6.25″ diameter at top) Pyrex container and it fits comfortably.

• It will comfortably close with item(s) 5″ tall.

• To make a bag bigger, make more rounds after Round 8 of base.

• To make a bag taller, make more rounds (even number of rounds) after Round 9 of cover.

Base

– Ch 9

Round 1: 3 SC FLO in 2nd CH from hook (2nd SC makes the 1st corner). SC FLO 6. 5 SC in last CH (2nd SC makes the 2nd corner and 4th SC makes 3rd corner). SC BLO 6. 2 SC BLO in the same stitch you made 1st SC FLO of the round (2nd SC makes the 4th corner). SL ST FLO in 1st SC. [22]

Round 2: CH 1. SC FLO. (SC FLO, CH 1, SC FLO)* SC FLO 8. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 1. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 8. Repeat * 1 time. SL ST FLO in 1st SC. [30]

Round 3: CH 1. SC FLO 2. (SC FLO, CH 1, SC FLO) in CH 1 FLO* SC FLO 10. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 3. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 10. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO. SL ST FLO in 1st SC. [38]

Round 4: CH 1. SC FLO 3. (SC FLO, CH 1, SC FLO) in CH 1 FLO* SC FLO 12. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 5. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 12. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 2. SL ST FLO in 1st SC. [46]

Round 5: CH 1. SC FLO 4. (SC FLO, CH 1, SC FLO) in CH 1 FLO* SC FLO 14. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 7. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 14. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 3. SL ST FLO in 1st SC. [54]

Round 6: CH 1. SC FLO 5. (SC FLO, CH 1, SC FLO) in CH 1 FLO* SC FLO 16. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 9. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 16. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 4. SL ST FLO in 1st SC. [62]

Round 7: CH 1. SC FLO 6. (SC FLO, CH 1, SC FLO) in CH 1 FLO* SC FLO 18. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 11. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 18. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 5. SL ST FLO in 1st SC. [70]

Round 8: CH 1. SC FLO 7. (SC FLO, CH 1, SC FLO) in CH 1 FLO* SC FLO 20. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 13. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 20. Repeat * 1 time. SC FLO 6. SL ST FLO in 1st SC. [78]

Round 9~18: CH 2. HDC BLO around. SL ST in 1st HDC. [78]

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Cover

– Insert a hook in 3rd loop from Round 17 and pick up a loop with Color A (see photo above)

Round 1: CH 2. HDC around in 3rd loop. SL ST in 1st HDC. [78] (See first photo below.)

Round 2: With Color B, CH 2. HDC around. SL ST in 1st HDC. [78] *Do not cut Color A yarn

Round 3: With Color A, CH 2. HDC around. SL ST in 1st HDC. [78] *Do not cut Color B yarn

Round 4~9: Repeat Round 2 & 3. [78]

Round 10: Repeat Round 2. [78]

Round 11: With Color A, CH 2. HDC. (FPTC in Round 9. Skip next stitch. HDC 5)* Repeat * 12 times. HDC 4. SL ST in 1st HDC. [78] (See second photo below.)

Round 12~15: Repeat Round 2 & 3. [78]

Round 16: Repeat Round 2. [78]

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Handle

-CH 6

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC across. [5]

Row 2: Turn. CH 1. SC across. [5]

Row 3~50: Repeat Row 2. [5]

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Cord

– Measure and cut 32″ long. 3 each for both colors. (total 6 strands)

– With 2 of Color A and 1 of Color B, make a braid. Make another braid with remaining strands.

Assembly

Cord: Insert 1 cord through FPTC. Tie a knot at center of short side of the base. Insert another one and tie a knot at the center of opposite side. (See photo above.)

Handle: Seam short edge of the handle to Round 16 of cover. Starting from 2nd HDC of Round 16 of cover, seam together 5 stitches. Skip next 34 stitches. Seam together next 5 stitches. Make sure to seam several times, especially the corners of handle, so it’s nice and sturdy. Also, make sure that handle is aligned center of short side of the base. (See photo below.) If you made the base bigger, seam does start at 2nd HDC because joins gradually shift to right. (For example, if you added 2 more rounds for base, you seam at 92nd HDC of Round 16 of cover, which is 2 stitches to the right)

Thanks again to Tae of TyingAnEnd.com for sharing this free kid’s crochet purse and lunchbox pattern! Be sure to check out Tae’s blog for lots more free modern crochet patterns!

More Free Modern Crochet Patterns for Kids

If you’re interested in more free crochet patterns for babies and kids, here are a few of the most loved by M&DC crocheters.

1. 1 Hour Beanie – This slightly slouchy easy child’s crochet hat pattern works up in about an hour and is perfect for beginners because it’s made from a simple rectangle.

2. Tributary Blanket -By combining luxuriously-textured Lion Brand Baby Soft Boucle yarn with your favorite shade of Mandala yarn, you’ll create an extremely soft, machine washable and visually-stunning baby blanket in no time.

3. Grandmother’s Flower Garden Blanket –  Inspired by vintage quilt patterns, this Grandmother’s Flower Garden crochet blanket pattern is perfect to make from deconstructed yarn cakes or your scrap stash.

4. XO Sweater – Believe it or not, this four-season child’s crochet cardigan pattern is made from two simple hexagons!

The post Crochet Lunch Bag (or Kids Purse) – Free Pattern by Tying An End appeared first on Make & Do Crew.

  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 

If you can crochet a rectangle, you can make this easy crochet top pattern! With very simple stitches and minimal counting, this lightweight top is a perfect mindless make to work on poolside. Get the free pattern in nine sizes below or purchase the ad-free, printable pdf for $2.99 here.


This easy crochet top pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.

If like me, you shy away from most summer garments made of yarn (hot!), this easy crochet top pattern will make you think again! Made with flatteringly drapey yarn that’s also refreshingly light, this top is wearable all summer and layer-able all fall.


This Easy Crochet Top Pattern Won’t Make Your Brain Hurt

I’m all for learning new crochet skills, but holy cow, summertime with three kids including one newborn doesn’t seem to be the time to do it.Schedule’s are different, vacations are happening and every kid we know seems to be having a birthday party.

I’ve found myself gravitating to simple projects lately that I can pick up and set down multiple times a day without getting confused about what I’m doing each time. This summer crochet pattern is easy enough to stitch along with as you travel from BBQ to beach.

My mom designed this easy crochet top pattern while we were on a family trip in Moab, Utah. While her three kids are grown, she said she loved how meditative this project was while riding in the car, sitting in the desert and chatting with grandkids at the pool.

If you’re a fairly beginner crocheter or just someone looking for a crochet vacation, this crochet rectangle top is for you!

And for the visual learners or inexperienced pattern readers, the ad-free, printable PDF has a handy little stitch chart and distills the entire pattern down to one simple page. I love stitch charts for their ease so I try to add them to as many patterns as possible. You can pick up the inexpensive PDF here.


Thin Yarn That’s Totally Worth the Effort!

I’m a real sucker for quick gratification. But for this easy crochet top pattern, we used Lion Brand’s Beautiful You, which is thinner than I tend to gravitate toward. Believe me though, the drape that comes from using a little thinner yarn is completely worth the little bit of extra time it takes to make something with it. And, really, who wants to wear a chunky sweater-like top in the middle of summer anyhow?

The Beautiful You line of yarn has one of the nicest selections of colors I’ve seen in a long time. Each color is current enough to feel stylish, but not so trendy that you’ll be over it before you finish your top. I particularly love Arrowwood and Aquatic and Rooibos Tea, which I’m using in another pattern right now.

A Crochet Top Pattern with Sizing for Almost Any Body

This pattern is written in nine sizes–nine!–in hopes that you can get the fit that’s just right for your particular body. One of the things that makes this crochet top pattern so beginner-friendly is that it’s super easy to customize. I suggest choosing your size based on your bust measurement and how much positive ease (excess fabric) you want in your top.

To adjust the length of your crochet top, simply work additional rows in the repeat. (Explained in more detail below within the pattern.) I’d love to see a tunic-length version of this top!

More Wearable Crochet Patterns for Beginners

1. Dwell Sweater / 2. Solstice Sweater / 3. Alpine Poncho / 4. Habitat Cardigan

Alfresco Easy Crochet Top
Free Pattern

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with stitch chart for $2.99 here.

Explanation:
If you can crochet a rectangle, you can make this easy lightweight top! With very simple stitches and minimal counting, this pattern is a perfect mindless make to work on poolside. A delicate border elevates this top into something you can dress up for work or dinner out.

Skills required include half double crochet, double crochet and basic seaming.

Supplies:
• Lion Brand Beautiful You (Weight: 2/fine – 326 yds, 3.5 oz)
Spanish Villa (#165-184) – 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7) skeins [(approx. 242 (275, 308, 381, 418, 455, 542, 583, 623) g)]
• Tapestry needle
• Size F (3.75 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins

Sample is a size L, pictured on a 5’9” model with a 41” bust.  It is suggested this top be worn with at least 1” of positive ease, which is reflected in the sizing table. If between sizes, size up for a fit similar to the sample.

Gauge:
19 hdc x 13.5 rows in pattern = 4”

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
fhdc – foundation half double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp(s) – spaces
st(s) – stitch(es)
tch – turning chain
WS – wrong side

Overall Pattern + Sizing Notes:
• Pattern is written in smallest size with larger sizes in parentheses. Circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning pattern.

• Ch 2 counts as first hdc throughout. This means the last hdc of each row is worked in the top of the tch of the previous row.

• To make a longer, tunic-style top, simply work additional repeats of Rows 3-10. You may prefer to make a size that will easily fit over your hips if you are planning on a tunic-length top, or alternatively, leave the bottom seams open as side slits.

• Reference stitch chart at end of pattern in printable PDF for visual guidance on main rectangle and edging.

FRONT + BACK

Make 2.

Preferred Foundation Row (WS): Fhdc 73 (83, 93, 103, 113, 123, 133, 143, 153).

Alternative Foundation: Ch 74 (84, 94, 104, 114, 124, 134, 144, 154).
Alternative Foundation Row 1 (WS): Hdc in third ch from hook, hdc in each ch to end of row; turn. [73 (83, 93, 103, 113, 123, 133, 143, 153) hdc]

Row 2: Ch 2, sk first hdc, hdc in each hdc to end of row; turn. [73 (83, 93, 103, 113, 123, 133, 143, 153) hdc]

Rows 3-6: Ch 2, sk first hdc, hdc in each hdc to end of row; turn. [73 (83, 93, 103, 113, 123, 133, 143, 153) hdc]

Row 7 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 hdc and 1 ch-1sp), sk first 2 hdc, hdc in next hdc, *ch 1, sk 1 hdc, hdc in next hdc; repeat from * to end of row; turn. [36 (41, 46, 51, 56, 61, 66, 71, 76) ch-1sps]

Row 8 (WS): Ch 2, sk first hdc, hdc in first ch-1sp, *ch 1, hdc in next ch-1sp, repeat from * to tch, hdc in tch; turn. [35 (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75) ch-1sps]

Row 9 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 hdc and 1 ch-1sp), hdc in first ch-1sp, *ch 1, hdc in next ch-1sp, repeat from * to last 2 sts, ch 1, sk next st, hdc in tch; turn. [36 (41, 46, 51, 56, 61, 66, 71, 76) ch-1sps]

Row 10 (WS): Ch 2, sk first hdc, hdc in each hdc and ch-1sp to end of row; turn. [73 (83, 93, 103, 113, 123, 133, 143, 153) hdc]

Rep Rows 3-10,  7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9) more times. Rep Rows 3-6 once more. Fasten off.

HDC BORDER

Note:
• The following Row is worked from the top edge, down the first side, across the bottom edge, back up the second side and finishes back at the opposite side of the top edge. The center sts of the top edge are left unworked for the neckline.

To form first shoulder:
With RS facing, attach yarn in 12th (16th, 21st, 25th, 29th, 33rd, 37th, 42nd, 45th) st from left side (left-handed: right side).

Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, hdc in next hdc, hdc in each hdc until tch remains, [hdc, ch1, hdc] in tch corner…

Row 1 Cont (working down side): Hdc 75 (75, 75, 84, 84, 84, 93, 93, 93) evenly along raw edge, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in corner (underside of foundation ch)…

Row 1 Cont (working across bottom edge): Hdc 71, 81, 91, 101, 111, 121, 131, 141, 151 [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in corner.

Row 1 (working up second side): Hdc 75 (75, 75, 84, 84, 84, 93, 93, 93) evenly along raw edge, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in corner…

Row 1 (to form second shoulder): Hdc in next 12 (16, 21, 25, 29, 33, 37, 42, 45) hdc. Fasten off.

BLOCKING

Steam block each piece to measure approximately 14.25 (16.25, 18.25, 20.25, 22.25, 24.25, 26.25, 28.25, 30.25)” wide and 19.5 (19.5, 19.5, 21.5, 21.5, 21.5, 23.75, 23.75, 23.75)” tall. If using an iron to steam block, do not touch iron to yarn, but instead hover steam carefully above it.

SEAMING

Seaming Shoulders:
Look at hdc border around each rectangle to determine RS versus WS. With wrong sides together, pin front and back rectangles together at shoulders marking 12 (16, 21, 25, 29, 33, 37, 42, 45) sts at each shoulder to seam. With a tapestry needle and remaining yarn, seam from shoulder toward neck using a basting stitch through both loops of each stitch. Rep on second shoulder.

Seaming Sides:
With wrong sides together, pin front and back rectangles together at sides marking 26 (28, 30, 32, 33, 35, 37, 38, 40) sts at each armhole to leave unseamed. With a tapestry needle and remaining yarn, seam from bottom toward armhole using a basting stitch through both loops of each stitch. Rep on second side.

EDGING

Note:
• Worry less about exact stitch count and placement along seams and focus on creating a clean border that lays flat. This edging is quite forgiving.

Turn top inside out so WS is facing out. Attach yarn at either side seam.

Bottom Edging Round (WS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), sl st in next st; *dc in next hdc, sl st in next hdc, repeat from * along entire bottom edge ending back where yarn was attached. Fasten off.

Attach yarn at bottom of armhole.

Armhole Edging Round (WS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), sl st in next st; *dc in next hdc, sl st in next hdc, repeat from * around armhole ending back where yarn was attached. Fasten off. Repeat on second armhole.

Attach yarn at shoulder seam on either side of neck.

Neck Edging Round (WS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), sl st in next hdc; *dc in next hdc, sl st in next hdc, repeat from * around neck edge ending back where yarn was attached. Fasten off.

Turn top right side out.

Pair your new top with a skirt, cutoffs or overalls and head out to enjoy some apps alfresco.

I love to see your finished projects! Use #MakeAndDoCrew and tag me Instagram (@MakeAndDoCrew) to show off your stitches and have a chance to be featured.

More Free Summer Crochet Patterns

Here a few more free crochet patterns you might enjoy for your warm weather hookin. You can always find all our free crochet patterns here.

1. Saratoga Poncho Top – made from two simple rectangles.

2. Lightweight Slippers with Flip Flop Soles – great for indoor or outdoor use. Includes video tutorial.

3. Urban Nomad Boho Bag – super fun construction and two strap options.

4. Canyonlands Top – Beautiful lace meets simple construction.

The post Easy Crochet Top Pattern For Summer – Free! appeared first on Make & Do Crew.

  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 

This women’s crochet vest with fringe is effortlessly stylish with openwork stitches and an on-trend ombre. Get the full free pattern below.

Thanks to Lion Brand Yarns for providing the yarn for this free women’s crochet vest with fringe pattern. This post contains affiliate links.

Welcome back to the Make & Do Crew guest designer series. While I’m getting to know the newest baby in our family, Kayla from KMT Creations is sharing her free women’s crochet vest with fringe pattern with us today! You can see lots of of Kayla’s crochet patterns her blog, KMT Creations and Ravelry. And be sure to check her out on social media too: Instagram, Pinterest, and Facebook. Kayla, take it away!

The Inspiration for My Women’s Crochet Vest With Fringe

I had the idea a long time ago to create a lacy, boho style top. So I added it to my “to-do” list, where it sat for quite a while. This Designer Call from Make & Do Crew was just the nudge I needed to pull that idea off the back burner and get to work. At last, the Leigh Boho vest was born. I knew that this would be the perfect design to suit the Make & Do Crew style, and it happens to be right up my alley as well!

A Lacy Crochet Vest Made With Basic Crochet Stitches

This is an intermediate pattern because of the lace aspect. But I promise it is not nearly as intimidating as it looks. You will only need to know basic stitches to be able to complete this. As long as you keep good counts, this will be a quick and easy project.

The Color Comes from The Cake (Yarn)!

Keeping the boho look in mind, I began to search for yarn. I knew I needed something neutral with interesting color changes.

Finding both is not what I would consider an easy task but when I came across Wool-Ease Cakes on Lionbrand.com, I knew that I had found the perfect fiber! I mean, isn’t it gorgeous? As soon as I stumbled upon this beauty, I HAD to have it! You can check out all the colors of Wool Ease Cakes here (including Athena, pictured above).

More Free Boho Crochet Patterns 

If you love this boho crochet vest, you might also like these free boho crochet patterns. You can always find all our free crochet patterns here.

1. Solstice Cardigan // 2. Moonrise Bag // 3. Urban Nomad Bag // 4. Saratoga Top

Leigh Boho Vest
Free Crochet Pattern

Explanation:
The Leigh Boho Vest is the perfect addition to any wardrobe. This versatile piece is an intermittent lace crochet pattern that uses simple chains and double crochets to make a beautiful intricate lace that you are sure to love.

Supplies:
• Lion Brand Wool-Ease Cakes Yarn (weight: 3/light – 590 yards, 5.3 oz)
Apollo (#621-206) – 1 ball
Size G (4.5 mm) crochet hook (or any size to obtain gauge)
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers
• Sewing needle
• Thread
• Scissors
• Measuring tape

Sizes/Measurements:
• XS/S: 34 inches width x 16 inches height

• M/L: 40 inches width x 16 inches height

Gauge:
• Pattern measures= 6 inch width. 2.25 inch height

– To start: Make a Ch of 19.

– Row 1: [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the 4th Ch from the hook. Ch6, sk6 stitches. [DC, Ch3, DC] in the next stitch. Ch6, Sk6 stitches. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the next stitch. DC in the last Ch. Turn.

– Row 2: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch4, 10DC in the Ch3 space. Ch4, [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space. DC in the last stitch. Turn.

– Row 3: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. Ch3, DC in the next 10 DCs. Ch3, [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space. DC in the last stitch. Turn.

– Row 4: Ch3. [ 2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. Ch1, 2DC in the each of the next 10 DCs. Ch1, [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space. DC in the last stitch. Turn.

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
Ch(s): Chain
SLST: Slip Stitch
Sk: Skip
HDC(s): Half double Crochet
HDC2tog: Half Double Crochet 2 together
DC(s): Double Crochet
Fan: group of 20 DCs
RS: Right side: All even rows
WS: Wrong side: All odd rows

Overall Pattern Notes:
• This pattern is written from the bottom-up.

• Ch3 counts as first DC.

• This pattern is written for XSmall/Small with (Medium/Large) in parenthesis.

Bottom

To start: Make a loose Ch of 89(117).

Row 1: [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the 4th Ch from the hook. *Ch6, sk6 stitches. [DC, Ch3, DC] in
the next stitch. Ch6, Sk6 stitches. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the next stitch. * Repeat ** across. DC
in the last Ch. Turn. – 104 Chs | 42 DCs (138 Chs | 54 DCs)

Row 2: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch4, 10DC in the Ch3 space. Ch4, [2DC,
Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space.* Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn. – 62 Chs |
90 DCs (82 Chs | 118 DCs)

Row 3: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch3, DC in the next 10 DCs. Ch3, [2DC,
Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space.* Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn. -50 Chs |
90 DCs ( 66 Chs | 114 DCs)

Row 4: Ch3. [ 2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch1, 2DC in the each of the next 10 DCs.
Ch1, [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space. * Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn.
– 26 Chs | 150 DCs (34 Chs | 198 DCs)

Row 5: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch6, [DC, Ch3, DC] between the 10th and
11th DC from the fan. Ch6, [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. * Repeat ** across. DC in the
last stitch. Turn. – 104 Chs | 42 DCs (138 Chs | 54 DCs)

Row 6: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch4, 10DC in the Ch3 space. Ch4, [2DC,
Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space.* Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn. – 62 Chs |
90 DCs (82 Chs | 118 DCs)

Row 7: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch3, DC in the next 10 DCs. Ch3, [2DC,
Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space.* Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn. -50 Chs |
90 DCs ( 66 Chs | 114 DCs)

Row 8: Ch3. [ 2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch1, 2DC in the each of the next 10 DCs.
Ch1, [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space. * Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn.
– 26 Chs | 150 DCs (34 Chs | 198 DCs)

Rows 9-12: Repeat Rows 5-8. If added length is desired, repeat Rows 5-8 until desired length is met. This will not be included in estimated yardage.

Left Front

Row 1 (WS): Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. Ch6, [DC, Ch3, DC] between the 10th
and 11th DC from the fan. Ch6, [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. DC in the first DC in the
next fan. Turn. -19 Chs | 12 DCs

Row 2: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. Ch4, 10DC in the Ch3 space. Ch4, [2DC,
Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space. DC in the last stitch. Turn. -12 Chs | 20 DCs

Row 3: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. Ch3, DC in the next 10 DCs. Ch3, [2DC,
Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space. DC in the last stitch. Turn. -10 Chs | 20 DCs

Row 4: Ch3, 4DC in the Ch2 space. 3DC in the Ch3 space. HDC in the 10 DCs. 3DC in the
Ch3 space. 4DC in the Ch2 space. DC in the last stitch. Turn. -16 DCs | 10 HDCs
2

Row 5: Ch1 (Doesn’t count as stitch). HDC in each stitch across. Turn. -26 HDCS

Row 6: Ch2 (Doesn’t count as stitch). DC in the first stitch. *Ch1, Sk1 stitch. DC in the next
stitch.* Repeat ** across DC in the last. Turn. – 12 Chs | 14 DCs

Row 7: Ch1. HDC2tog. HDC in the first 2 Ch1 spaces. 2HDC in each remaining Ch1 space.
HDC in the top of the last stitch. -24 HDCs

Row 8: Ch2 (Doesn’t count as stitch). DC in the first stitch. *Ch1, Sk1 stitch. DC in the next
stitch.* Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn. -11 Chs | 13 DCs

Rows 9-20: Repeat Rows 7-8. -5 Chs | 7 DCs

Row 21: Ch1. HDC in the first 2 stitches. 2HDC in each Ch1 space across until you get to
the last Ch1 space. HDC in the Ch1 space. HDC in the last stitch. -12 HDCs

Row 22: Ch2 (Doesn’t count as stitch). DC in the first stitch. *Ch1, Sk1 stitch. DC in the
next stitch.* Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn. -5 Chs | 7 DCs

Rows 23-26: Repeat Rows 21-22. -5 Chs | 7 DCs

Finish off.

Break yarn, Leave a long tail for sewing.

Back

With the WS facing up, Sk18 DCs and attach yarn to the last DC of the “fan.”

Row 1: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch6, [DC, Ch3, DC] between the 10th and
11th DC from the fan. Ch6, [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. * Repeat ** 1(3) additional
times across. DC in the first DC of the next fan. Turn. -53 Chs | 24 DCs (70 Chs | 30 DCs)

Row 2: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch4, 10DC in the Ch3 space. Ch4, [2DC,
Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space.* Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn. -32 Chs |
48 DCs (42 Chs | 62 DCs) 3

Row 3: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch3, DC in the next 10 DCs. Ch3, [2DC,
Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space.* Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn. -26 Chs |
48 DCs (32 Chs | 62 DCs)

Row 4: Ch3. [ 2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch1, 2DC in the each of the next 10 DCs.
Ch1, [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space. * Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn.
-14 Chs | 78 DCs (18 Chs | 102 DCs)

Row 5: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch6, [DC, Ch3, DC] between the 10th and
11th DC from the fan. Ch6, [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. * Repeat ** across. DC in the
last stitch. Turn. -53 Chs | 24 DCs (70 Chs | 30 DCs)

Row 6: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch4, 10DC in the Ch3 space. Ch4, [2DC,
Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space.* Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn. –32 Chs |
48 DCs (42 Chs | 62 DCs)

Row 7: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch3, DC in the next 10 DCs. Ch3, [2DC,
Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space.* Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn. -26 Chs |
48 DCs (32 Chs | 62 DCs)

Row 8: Ch3. [ 2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. *Ch1, 2DC in the each of the next 10 DCs.
Ch1, [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space. * Repeat ** across. DC in the last stitch. Turn.

Rows 9-12: Repeat Rows 5-8. -14 Chs | 78 DCs (18 Chs | 102 DCs)

Finish off.

Break yarn, weave in ends.

Right Front

With the WS facing up, Sk18 DCs and attach yarn to the last DC of the fan.

**IMAGE**

Row 1 (WS): Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. Ch6, [DC, Ch3, DC] between the 10th
and 11th DC from the fan. Ch6, [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. DC in the last stitch.
Turn. -19 Chs | 12 DCs 4

Row 2: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. Ch4, 10DC in the Ch3 space. Ch4, [2DC,
Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space. DC in the last stitch. Turn. -12 Chs | 20 DCs

Row 3: Ch3. [2DC, Ch2, 2DC] in the Ch2 space. Ch3, DC in the next 10 DCs. Ch3, [2DC,
Ch2, 2DC] in the next Ch2 space. DC in the last stitch. Turn. -10 Chs | 20 DCs

Row 4: Ch3, 4DC in the Ch2 space. 3DC in the Ch3 space. HDC in the 10 DCs. 3DC in the
Ch3 space. 4DC in the Ch2 space. DC in the last stitch. Turn. -16 DCs | 10 HDCs

Row 5: Ch1 (Doesn’t count as stitch). HDC in each stitch across. Turn. -26 HDCS

Row 6: Ch2 (Doesn’t count as stitch). DC in the first 2 stitches. *Ch1, Sk1 stitch. DC in the
next stitch.* Repeat ** across. Turn. – 12 Chs | 14 DCs

Row 7: Ch1. HDC in first stitch. 2HDC in each Ch1 across until 2 Ch1 spaces remain. HDC
in the remaining Ch1 spaces. HDC2tog in the last 2 stitches. -24 HDCs

Row 8: Ch2 (Doesn’t count as stitch). DC in the first 2 stitches. *Ch1, Sk1 stitch. DC in the
next stitch.* Repeat ** across. Turn. -11 Chs | 13 DCs

Rows 9-20: Repeat Rows 7-8. -5 Chs | 7 DCs

Row 21: Ch1. 2HDC in each Ch1 space across. HDC in the last 2 stitches. -12 HDCs

Row 22: Ch2 (Doesn’t count as stitch). DC in the first 2 stitches. *Ch1, Sk1 stitch. DC in the
next stitch.* Repeat ** across. Turn. -5 Chs | 7 DCs

Rows 23-26: Repeat Rows 21-22 -5 Chs | 7 DCs

Finish off.

Break yarn, Leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly

With the RS facing up, fold the sides over to lay on top of the Back Portion. The sides will
be longer than the back and that is intentional.

With a needle and the long tails, sew the last row of the sides to the last row of the back.

Turn vest right-side out.

Fringe

Used the long-side of a DVD case and wrap yarn several times.

Cut one side of the wrapped yarn.

Add 2 pieces of the cut yarn in every 2-3 chains along the bottom.

Trim if needed.

Thanks again to Kayla of KMT Creations for sharing the free pattern for this women’s crochet vest with fringe! Be sure to check out Kayla’s blog for lots more free modern crochet patterns!

More Free Modern Crochet Patterns for Summer

If you’re interested in more free crochet patterns for warm weather, here are a few of the most loved by M&DC crocheters.

1. Day Date Cardigan – Two simple crochet hexagons transform into a lightweight, on-trend cardigan complete with cozy pockets and roomy bishop sleeves. Includes video tutorial!

2. Street Fair Purse – Channel your inner free spirit with this easy crochet boho purse made from two fun circles.

3. Suzette Bag – Requiring only single and double crochet and a very simple construction, this free crochet bag pattern is perfect for beginners. Includes video stitch tutorial.

4. How to Patch Jeans With Crochet Lace – Do your holey jeans need a facelift? Learn how to patch jeans with crochet lace in this simple how-to tutorial! Free crochet doily patch pattern included.

The post Women’s Crochet Vest With Fringe – Free Pattern from KMT Creations appeared first on Make & Do Crew.

  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 

Whip up this modern corner to corner crochet blanket for your couch, nursery or bedroom. Get the free pillow pattern that coordinates with this graphgan in Part 1


Thanks to Lion Brand Yarns for providing the yarn for this free corner to corner crochet blanket pattern. This post contains affiliate links.

Welcome back to the Make & Do Crew guest designer series. While I’m getting to know the newest baby in our family, Jessie from Fly the Distance Co. is sharing her free corner to corner crochet blanket pattern with us today! You can see lots of of Jessie’s crochet patterns her blog, Fly the Distance Co. And be sure to check her out on social media too: Instagram and Pinterest. Jessie, take it away!

The Inspiration for My Corner to Corner Crochet Blanket

The matching Corner to Corner Boho Lapgan is the perfect companion to the Boho Throw Pillow found in Part One! This X Marks the Spot lapgan makes a great addition to any style décor or for keeping the chill off while enjoying a campfire and the stars!

After creating a mini version of this symmetrical pattern with the throw pillow in Part One, diving into this lapgan pattern will seem like a breeze! In the first part of this C2C Boho Crochet Pillow and Lapgan set, we tackled the basic design pattern on a smaller scale. Now, moving on to the second part, the lapgan, the design is similar but extended over a larger scale.

Easily Organize a Large Scale C2C Crochet Project

Because everyone following along is at a different level, I’ve come up with a few ways to break down this lapgan project (and any other large-scale crochet projects) into manageable pieces! If you are more experienced, scroll down for the pattern!

The symmetrical pattern for the boho pillow and lapgan was created specifically to make it as easy to manage as possible without sacrificing detail. When starting such a large project like a blanket it can seem a bit overwhelming if you are just starting out especially with a number of yarn lines and color changes. Think of it in thirds.


At the first stage of the pattern there is a maximum of seven lines running at one particular time. Here, the project is small and can be managed with various techniques. As the project grows in size the number of color changes and yarn lines running into it begins to decrease. This makes flipping your lapgan and keeping your yarn lines untangled easier to handle.

In the second stage of the pattern the number of color changes decreases to three. Then, at the center and longest length of the design, it decreases to just one color that is used for quite a few rows! This allows for a much-needed break!

As the pattern begins to decease along both edges into the third stage of the pattern the number of yarn lines needed increases. Because the pattern is symmetrical, you’ve already done it once so the second time should be much easier! Although you will have a bulkier project at this point the steady decrease in each row makes the time go by much faster and makes it easier to turn and manage your yarn lines.

Easy Care, Washable Yarn for C2C Blankets

I love using a worsted weight yarn for corner to corner projects and Lion Brand’s Vanna’s Choice is my favorite. Not only is it affordable but the colors in this line speak straight to my heart! The array of colors and coordinating hues are constantly causing crafty, creative mind disruptions as I fantasy about possible future projects!

Be sure to check out part one, the boho c2c pillow pattern, to get a glimpse of a few colors to fit any color palette! Not only does the color speak to my heart but so does the mission to give back. With portions of the proceeds going to support St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital it’s like each little project helps a little to make the world a better place. And who doesn’t want to be a part of that!?

Need to Learn How to Corner to Corner Crochet?

These tutorials will help you build the skills to make this C2C crochet blanket and pillow set!

BOOK: Corner-To-Corner Crochet: 15 Modern Projects
(Learn all the details you need to know to master C2C in this book!)

VIDEO TUTORIAL: How to Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle

PHOTO TUTORIAL: How to Change Colors in C2C

PHOTO TUTORIAL: Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle

BLOG POST: How to Keep Your Yarn Organized Using Household Objects

More Free C2C Crochet Patterns + Tutorials

If you love corner to corner crochet, don’t miss our beginner’s guide to C2C, as well as these fun corner to corner crochet patterns!

1. C2C How-To Video Tutorial // 2. Bunny Blanket // 3. Modern C2C Christmas Afghan  // 4. Free Range C2C Kimono

“X” Marks The Spot
Free Corner to Corner Crochet Blanket Pattern

Explanation:
This corner to corner boho pillow and lapgan crochet pattern set is the perfect project to fit any style décor and personality! The nature adventure inspired matching patterns can easily liven up your own little corner of comfort!

Supplies:
Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice Yarn (Weight: 4/Medium – 170 yards, 3.5 oz)
Linen (#860 – 099) – 7 balls
– Navy (#860 – 110) – 5 balls
Size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Printed copy of corner to corner crochet lapgan graph(download it here

Sizes/Measurements:
• One size – 40″ x 50″

Gauge:
• 5 tiles = 4 inches

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
c2c – corner to corner
ch – chain sl st – slip stitch
< – indicates downward direction of c2c tiles on the graph (right side)
> – indicates upward direction of c2c tile on the graph (wrong side)
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over

Overall Pattern Notes:
• The pillow and lapgan graphs are available for free to download! Find the C2C pillow graph here, and the C2C blanket graph here.

• Begin the first c2c tile in the lower right-hand corner of the graph as indicated by the
numbers. This is row one in the written instructions for the pillow pattern.

• Each square on the graph represents one c2c tile. A c2c tile is a ch3 + 3dc. For instructions
on how to corner to corner check out Make and Do Crew’s tutorial!

• If you are not familiar with color changes along decreased edges, follow the below
instructions: (For reference, the Navy colored tile is the old color and the new color is Linen.)

1.) Join tile to the row below, turn & ch1
2.) Sl st in tops for the next TWO dc sts as usual.
3.) At the last dc st, insert hook and yo BOTH the old color and new color and pull through.
4.) With both colors on the hook, pull the new color strand through the loop of the old one.
5.) Tighten the strands up and ch3 to start the next tile.

Follow along with the free graph to complete the pattern. It is helpful to use a pencil and a ruler to
diagonally cross off a row once it is done. Separating your skeins of yarn into smaller bobbins at the
beginning will help you later on!

Finish by weaving in those annoying ends and adding your finishing touches!

Adding a Border

If you wish to add a border to the lapgan, choose a spot in between two tiles.

1.) Sl st and sc in the same space.
2.) Ch2 and skip a tile.
3.) Sc into the next space between tiles
4.) Repeat along edge, creating 2sc in each corner.

Because the color changes in the design go to the edges there are two ways to create the border.
Choosing one color and crocheting around will show distinctly along the areas of the opposite color
(i.e. a Linen border will stand out along the Navy tiles).

If you want to keep the design prominent with an “invisible” border, follow the same instructions
above but change colors of the border at the change in tile color. Yes, this will create more ends to
weave in, BUT you’ll love the disruption-free flow of the final piece!

Adding Some Tassels or Fringe

This boho inspired design is yelling for some extra pizazz! Adding some large, fringy tassels to the
corners definitely adds some flare! There are many options for you to choose from too! If you aren’t
sure how to create fringe or tassels check out this post for a video!

I hope you love the end result of this corner to corner boho pillow and lapgan crochet pattern as
much as I do! There are so many opportunities with this design to make it unique to you and I would
love to see your little masterpiece on Instagram or drop a comment below!

Thanks again to Jessie of Fly the Distance Co. for sharing this free corner to corner crochet pillow pattern! Be sure to check out Jessie’s blog for more free crochet patterns, tips and tutorials!

More Free Modern Corner to Corner Crochet Patterns + Tutorials

If you’re interested in more free corner to corner crochet patterns and tutorials, here are a few of the most loved by M&DC crocheters. You can always peruse all our free C2C patterns here.

1. Nordic Snowflake Scarf– Whether you live in the North Pole or just want to jump on the super scarf trend, this nordic crochet super scarf pattern will keep you feeling warm, but lookin’ hot all winter long.

2. Alpaca Blanket – Indulge your alpaca infatuation with this generously sized baby blanket or lap afghan!

3. Be A Deer Afghan – Hello ombre! This corner to corner crochet deer afghan will be a hit with your favorite baby, hipster or hunter.

4. How to Keep Yarn Organized –  If you like to spend more time knitting or crocheting than untangling yarn, this list of DIY yarn holder ideas using household objects is for you!

The post Modern Corner to Corner Crochet Blanket – Free Pattern by Fly The Distance Co. appeared first on Make & Do Crew.

  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 

Want to get your original pattern idea in front of a new audience of enthusiastic crocheters? Apply by June 19, 2019 to guest post right here on Make & Do Crew! 

Since our first round of guest designer partnerships has been so successful, we’re opening Make & Do Crew to guest crochet pattern submissions for the winter season.

We’re Accepting Guest Designer Patterns for Winter 2019-20!

Are you a crochet pattern designer? A blogger? Maybe aspire to do both? I’d be thrilled to share your creative take on crochet with the M&DC readers!

Make and Do Crew has grown to exceed my wildest expectations in the last three years and I’m so excited at this new way to welcome you into the inner folds of the the Crew. Read on below to learn how you can apply to be a guest designer!

Guest Posting On Make And Do Crew

We’re so excited about your interest in guest posting on MakeAndDoCrew.com. You have your own unique flavor of cro-jo (crochet mojo) and we want the Crew to get to know you through sharing a pattern design!

The application to be a guest designer on Make & Do Crew is open through June 19, 2019. (Patterns are due Oct 10, 2019.) Get the full scoop and apply below!

A little more about what we’re looking for:

• Creative makers with strong pattern writing skills and an ability to deliver beautiful, thoughtful photos. From you, we’ll need a written blog post introducing your pattern, the actual written pattern and 5-10 photos showing the finished project and any tricky steps along the way. You do NOT need to have a massive online following to apply!

• Modern, on-trend and approachable crochet designs focused on wearable garments, accessories and homewares. Beginner to advanced-beginner patterns with clearly photographed tutorials are always well-loved by the Crew. If you’d like more insight into what we like to share here on the blog, poke around the crochet pattern archives and think about how to bring your own voice and aesthetic to what we already know works here.

• Patterns will publish November 2019-April 2020, so consider the both the winter and approaching spring/summer season in the US when brainstorming designs.

A little more about what you’ll get:

• The Make & Do Crew audience is an engaged group of crochet-lovers and we know they’ll love you too. With over 400,000 social media followers and 100,000 email subscribers, your pattern will be seen by a new audience of enthusiastic crocheters.

Your guest blog post will include and introduction and closing that discusses you as the designer and links to your online home (blog/Etsy store, etc) and your social profiles. Social posts will tag you and celebrate you as the designer. We want the Crew to get to know you! (You can see some examples of past guest posts here.)

Lion Brand has generously agreed to provide yarn for all guest post projects. Read more on that in the application below. If Lion Brand is interested in creating a kit from your pattern, you will work out the financial details of that agreement separately. (Make & Do Crew will not be involved.)

• You retain the rights to sell the pattern in PDF form and license the pattern to yarn companies and print publications.

• If you have previously guest posted on Make & Do Crew, feel free to apply again.

Have other specific questions we didn’t answer here? Send a note to info@makeanddocrew.com and Jamie or I will get back to you asap.

Thanks so much for your interest in applying. I appreciate you sharing your creativity with us. We’ll get back to you by mid-July 2019 to let you know who we’ll have space for this winter.

Please subscribe to our email newsletters if you’d like to stay in the loop about further opportunities! 

Jess

The post Guest Post Here on Make & Do Crew (Time-Sensitive) appeared first on Make & Do Crew.

  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 

Customize the color palette of this modern corner to corner crochet pillow pattern to fit any room in your house. Find the full free pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here

Thanks to Lion Brand Yarns for providing the yarn for this free corner to corner crochet pillow pattern. This post contains affiliate links.

Welcome back to the Make & Do Crew guest designer series. While I’m getting to know the newest baby in our family, Jessie from Fly the Distance Co. is sharing her free corner to corner crochet pillow pattern with us today! You can see lots of of Jessie’s crochet patterns her blog, Fly the Distance Co. And be sure to check her out on social media too: Instagram and Pinterest. Jessie, take it away!

The Inspiration for My Corner to Corner Crochet Pillow

Hi there! I’m Jessie, the designer and nature lover behind Fly the Distance co! I’m am super excited to be guest posting here on Make and Do Crew and sharing this corner to corner crochet pattern set with you all! Many of my patterns are inspired by something in nature or channel that daring adventurer. Nature was my first love and it is followed closely by crafting!

After throwing down the hooks as a kid because I just couldn’t get it, I decided to try again as an adult. And now, I find myself drowning in yarn skeins! For me, designing crochet patterns is the perfect combo of right brain/left brain for my scientific, yet crafty mind! I hope you enjoy these corner to corner crochet patterns as much as I have!

The patterns are set to post separately over two posts. In this post you will find the pattern for the X Marks the Spot 12 x 16 Pillow. A beginner friendly version of the pattern that matches and prepares you for the lapgan to be released in the next post! Be sure to be on the look out for Part 2!

This corner to corner boho pillow and lapgan crochet pattern set is the perfect project to fit any style décor and personality! The nature adventure inspired matching patterns can easily liven up your own little corner of comfort! Whether you are a beginner or an experienced c2c stitcher, this boho throw pillow pattern, in the first part of this pattern set, is beginner friendly and quick to create!

The greatest creative inspiration surrounds us everyday! Mother nature is full of both intricate and simple patterns. Take a leisurely walk down a nature trail and you are bound to find some great inspiration for pattern and color! It’s my favorite place to draw design ideas from!

But, every great adventure into nature is made better by knowing you have someplace to come home to. Am I right? A place to relax, kick your shoes off, grab a hook and yarn, and maybe some coffee or wine too! An “X” on the map that marks the spot of your own piece of the world. That is where the design inspiration for the X Marks the Spot corner to corner pillow and lapgan came from! The “X” that marks your own little corner of comfort, whatever that means for you!

Beginner-Friendly Corner to Corner Crochet Pattern

If you are a beginner to crochet or just learning the corner to corner method, this pillow pattern is a great starter piece! Its small size (12”x14”) makes it manageable and quick to complete, while also giving you a little experience in managing a number of yarn lines.

There are many great tutorials on the method and videos on how to change colors in corner to corner crochet if you need help with the c2c itself or how to read a graph. This pattern and post assumes that you’ve had some experience with this crochet method so if you would like to learn how, definitely hit those links! Jess, here on Make and Do Crew, has great posts and videos to help you get started! (See them here!)

Keeping your yarn lines organized is key to any c2c crochet pattern that employs a lot of color changes! This starts with creating smaller “bobbins” of yarn from your skeins to use at different sections of the pattern. Estimate the amount of yarn needed for a particular section of graph and use your favorite method to keep this length wrangled.

For such a small project like this throw pillow, I like to use clothespins of various sizes because they are affordable (I tend to lose things a lot in sofa cushions and in the grass when I crochet outside!) In the wood section of your local craft store, you can find larger clothespins for a dollar or two for when you need to make larger bobbins. Plus, this allows for the bonus of being able to clip the clothespin onto the project and prevent unraveling of your bobbin, should your project be on the move!

Once we get into the larger lapgan in Part Two of this boho c2c crochet pattern, using other methods to organize your yarn skeins might be a better option for you! There are so many organization ideas out there. If you do a little search, you’re sure to find one that is perfect for you!

Easy Care, Washable Yarn for C2C Crochet Pillows

The simple design makes these corner to corner boho crochet patterns fit in any style room! While it is a boho type geometric design, by switching up the color choices you can easily match it to your unique color style. Lines and patterns are on trend for interior design and can fit in any décor style from farmhouse to boho to modern, just by adjusting the color combinations and details! I could also see this as a nursery set for a new boho or chic baby theme with some light pinks or blues!

Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice was chosen to complete these patterns because of its array of colors. The main color, Linen, is a great base option because its off-white color matches beautifully with many other colorways in this line! I was first introduced to this color by the Be a Deer Baby Blanket here on Make and Do Crew and it has been a go-to color choice for me ever since!

Using “Linen” as a base allows for a great color statement opportunity! Some of my favorite colorways in this line are are Midnight Blue for something vibrant, Pink for a baby, Dusty Green for a fresh pop of natural color, Taupe to match with a farmhouse style color palette and Mustard for the fall and winter décor!

More Free C2C Crochet Patterns + Tutorials

New to C2C crochet? Don’t miss our beginner’s guide to C2C, as well as these fun corner to corner crochet patterns!


1. C2C How-To Video Tutorial // 2. Alpaca Blanket  // 3. Be A Deer Afghan  // 4. Nordic Snowflake Scarf

“X” Marks The Spot
C2C Crochet Pillow Free Pattern

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF of this pattern here.

Explanation:
This corner to corner boho pillow and lapgan crochet pattern set is the perfect project to fit any style décor and personality! The nature adventure inspired matching patterns can easily liven up your own little corner of comfort! Whether you are just starting or an experienced C2C stitcher this Boho Throw Pillow pattern in the first part of this set is beginner friendly and quick to create!

Supplies:
Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice Yarn (Weight: 4/Medium – 170 yards, 3.5 oz)
Linen (#860 – 099) – 1 ball (approx. 150 yards)
– Navy (#860 – 110) – 2 ball (approx. 250 yards)
Size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers
• Scissors
• 12” x 16” pillow insert
• For optional border & fringe add 1 skein of desired color
• Printed copy of corner to corner crochet pillow graph (download it here)

Sizes/Measurements:
• One size – 12” x 16”

Gauge:
• 5 tiles = 4 inches

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
c2c – corner to corner
ch – chain sl st – slip stitch
< – indicates downward direction of c2c tiles on the graph (right side)
> – indicates upward direction of c2c tile on the graph (wrong side)
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over

Overall Pattern Notes:
• The size of this pillow is small at 12”x14” and therefore makes flipping this project to work on the right and wrong side much simpler to handle. The maximum number of color changes in a row for this pattern is six. Which means at the busiest time in this project you will have six different yarn lines from different “bobbins” running into it. Creating these bobbins ahead of time will help you complete the project quicker! Don’t worry about getting the amount exact, you can always add in extra yarn in any spot you are short. This just creates one or two more ends to weave in at the end.

• I know you’ve heard it before, “staying on gauge is important,” but for this pillow project it is important because of the C2C method. With any corner to corner project the tiled squares you create with your stitches leave gaps between adjacent tiles. Therefore, when the project is stretched a little these gaps open up and seem larger.

• In most pillow patterns creating panels for a pillow that are slightly smaller than the insert makes for a fluffier and fuller looking pillow. This is great if you have tight stitching like with single crochets but doing this with the corner to corner method can mean leaving gaps in the panel and revealing the insert below. That reveal is the reason this pattern is on gauge specifically to make 12 x 14 inch panels! Be sure to keep your gauge! Adjust your hook size to make up for any variations!

• This pattern is free for personal use or to make items to sell in your own personal shop. Please do NOT reproduce this pattern in print or digital form as your own or use these photos to sell your reproductions. Thanks for being a nice human! Now get to stitchin’!

HOW TO CHANGE COLORS IN CORNER TO CORNER CROCHET

X MARKS THE SPOT PILLOW WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS

Download the free C2C pillow pattern graph to accompany the written pattern here.

Row 1 < : 1 Navy

Row 2 > : 1 Linen 1 Navy

Row 3 < : 2 Navy 1 Linen

Row 4 > : 2 Linen 1 Navy 1 Linen

Row 5 < : 1 Linen 2 Navy 2 Linen

Row 6 > : 1 Navy 2 Linen 1 Navy 2 Linen

Row 7 < : 1 Navy 1 Linen 2 Navy 2 Linen 1 Navy

Row 8 > : 2 Navy 2 Linen 1 Navy 2 Linen 1 Navy

Row 9 < : 2 Navy 1 Linen 2 Navy 2 Linen 1 Navy 1 Linen

Row 10 > : 1 Linen 2 Navy 2 Linen 1 Navy 4 Linen

Row 11 < : 4 Linen 2 Navy 2 Linen 1 Navy 2 Linen

Row 12 > : 2 Linen 2 Navy 2 Linen 1 Navy 5 Linen

Row 13 < : 7 Navy 2 Linen 1 Navy 3 Linen

Row 14 > : 5 Navy 2 Linen 7 Navy

Row 15 < : 8 Navy 2 Linen 5 Navy Corner: Increase at the beginning of the WS rows (>) and decrease at the beginning of the RS rows (<).

Row 16 > (WS) : 6 Navy 9 Linen

Row 17 < (RS) : 15 Linen

Row 18 > : 15 Linen

Row 19 < : 15 Linen

Row 20 > : 9 Linen 6 Navy

Row 21 < : 5 Navy 2 Linen 8 Navy Corner: Decrease at the beginning of each row.

Row 22 > : 7 Navy 2 Linen 5 Navy

Row 23 < : 3 Linen 1 Navy 2 Linen 7 Navy

Row 24 > : 5 Linen 1 Navy 2 Linen 2 Navy 2 Linen

Row 25 < : 2 Linen 1 Navy 2 Linen 2 Navy 4 Linen

Row 26 > : 4 Linen 1 Navy 2 Linen 2 Navy 1 Linen

Row 27 < : 1 Linen 1 Navy 2 Linen 2 Navy 1 Linen 2 Navy

Row 28 > : 1 Navy 2 Linen 1 Navy 2 Linen 2 Navy

Row 29 < : 1 Navy 2 Linen 2 Navy 1 Linen 1 Navy

Row 30 > : 2 Linen 1 Navy 2 Linen 1 Navy

Row 31 < : 2 Linen 2 Navy 1 Linen

Row 32 > : 1 Linen 1 Navy 2 Linen

Row 33 < : 1 Linen 2 Navy

Row 34 > : 1 Navy 1 Linen

Row 35 < : 1 Navy

Weave in those ends!

Back Panel

Options: Create a second panel of the design to have a reversible pillow! You can also use the graph in the download to create a monochrome back panel. Join panels by placing the right side of each rectangle facing out. Begin in the lower right hand corner and sc around three sides, with 3sc sts in each corner. Insert pillow and sc around remaining side. Sl st to fasten & weave.

Thanks again to Jessie of Fly the Distance Co. for sharing this free corner to corner crochet pillow pattern! Be sure to check out Jessie’s blog for more free crochet patterns, tips and tutorials!

More Free Modern Corner to Corner Crochet Patterns + Tutorials

If you’re interested in more free corner to corner crochet patterns and tutorials, here are a few of the most loved by M&DC crocheters. You can always peruse all our free C2C patterns here.

1. Free Range C2C Kimono – A few basic rectangles come together to form a gorgeously drapy, on-trend sweater in this simple corner to corner crochet kimono pattern. Sizes S-3X.

2. Corner To Corner Crochet Bunny Blanket – The colors in this plaid corner to corner crochet bunny blanket free pattern are easily customizable or crochet the entire rabbit in a solid color for a more beginner-friendly C2C project.

3. Modern C2C Christmas Afghan – Make an heirloom your family can snuggle up with year after year with this free corner to corner crochet Christmas afghan pattern! Includes free printable graph patterns for each square in this crochet Christmas afghan.

4. How to Keep Yarn Organized –  If you like to spend more time knitting or crocheting than untangling yarn, this list of DIY yarn holder ideas using household objects is for you!

The post Corner to Corner Crochet Pillow – Free Pattern by Fly The Distance Co. appeared first on Make & Do Crew.

  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 

Minimal counting and two short seams come together in an easy, crochet long cardigan that’s perfect for layering. Get the full free pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF for $2.99 here.


This free crochet long cardigan pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.

By using treble crochet and floppy worsted weight yarn, you’ll work through this cardigan quickly and twirling your fringe in no time! This is one of the comfiest crochet pieces I’ve ever worn and I’m so excited to share all the details with you. Keep reading for more about the yarn and inspiration and a video preview or scroll down for the free pattern.

A Crochet Long Cardigan That Was Made For the American Southwest

For the last three years, my family has taken a mountain biking trip to Moab, Utah. This year as we were planning the AirBnB rental, who would cook what each night and what rides we’d attempt, my mom and I were also busy scheming a crocheted long cardigan that would be perfect to photograph against the backdrop of the red rocks of Moab.

And holy smokes–isn’t Utah beautiful!? I just adore this landscape. Paired with the exaggerated fringe and fantastic drape of this sweater, everything about the Moab desert complimented the boho crochet cardigan vibe we were going for.

Wear This Long Crochet Cardigan Year Round

Sometimes you just need a statement piece that makes an otherwise average outfit look really intentional. When designing this pattern, we wanted to create a crochet cardigan that felt summery enough to toss on over a sundress, but also versatile enough to wear with leggings and a long sleeve shirt in the fall.

How to Customize Your Boho Cardigan

It’s really easy to customize this cardigan because the construction is super simple to begin with. You’ll work the fronts and back in one large seamless piece and then add the sleeves by picking up stitches around the armholes, again eliminating the need for seaming.

To make your long crochet cardigan extra long, similar to a crochet duster, simply work extra rows in the body section. To make it shorter just eliminate some of the rows in the body before you divide for the armholes. And you can leave the fringe off for a less free-spirited look that you can wear to work. (Unless, of course, your office is a field of daisies. Then by all means, fringe away!)

My Favorite Yarn for Warm Weather Crochet

As my mom and I expected, Lion Brand’s ZZ Twist proved to be the perfect yarn to use to achieve the flowey, slinky and lightweight effect we were going for with this crocheted long cardigan. (We also used it in the Free Range Kimono pattern last summer!)

Have you tried this yarn yet? Apparently, it’s spun the opposite way as most other yarns, which makes it easier to roll off your hook while crocheting. In any case, the drape of the yarn itself is so spot on that I’d use it even if it wasn’t so easy to crochet with. Ha. You can find more of our free crochet patterns using ZZ Twist here and see all the colors it comes in here.

Get a Preview of the Solstice Sweater In Action

Sometimes it’s hard to tell in a photo what a crochet pattern really looks like and get a feel for what the fabric will be like when you wear it. So for this long crochet cardigan pattern,  I put together a little preview video of the sweater in action.

In a quick 30 seconds, I think you’ll really get a sense of how comfy, flowy and flattering this cardigan is. (And be sure to watch to the final scene where you can see my sister twirl her little bohemian heart out! I was laughing out loud editing this part of the video.)

More Free Crochet Cardigan Patterns

If crochet cardigans are your jam like me, here are some more free patterns you might enjoy. All of them include video tutorials as well. You can always check out all our free crochet sweater patterns here.

1.Remix Cardigan + Video / 2. Alchemy Cardigan + Video / 3.Habitat Cardigan + Video / 4.Day Date Cardigan + Video

The Solstice Sweater
Free Long Crochet Cardigan Pattern

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF for $2.99 here.

Save this pattern to Ravelry here.

Pin it for later here.

Explanation:
Exaggerated fringe, open stitch work and flatteringly drapey yarn come together to make a very easy carefree cardigan that’s perfect for laying year round.

With very little increasing or decreasing and only two short seams in the entire sweater, this pattern is approachable for confident beginners. The main sweater fronts and backs are worked in one piece and sleeve stitches are picked up around armhole (no seams!) By using treble crochet and floppy worsted-weight yarn, you’ll work through this cardigan quickly and be twirling your fringe in no time!

Supplies:
• Lion Brand ZZ Twist (Weight: 4/medium –  246 yds, 3.5 oz)
Ecru (763-098) – 7 (8, 10, 11, 12) skeins [ (approx. 670 (795, 900, 1030, 1165) g)]
• Tapestry needle
Size J hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins
• Piece of stiff cardboard approximately 9” tall
• Scissors

Size             Fits Bust    Length (without fringe)
S/M: 28-34” 32.75”
M/L: 34-40” 34”
L/1X: 40-46” 34”
1X/2X: 46-52” 35.25”
2X/3X: 52-58” 36.5”

Sample pictured is a M/L on a 5’8” model with a 38” bust.

Gauge:
6.5 rows worked in pattern (3.5 rows of hdc + 3 rows of tr “X”s) = 4”
15 hdc = 4”

Note: When working gauge swatch, keep in mind that gauge listed above includes some natural stretch from the weight of the sweater. If your swatch is slightly shorter than gauge, it will likely stretch to the right size in the completed cardigan.

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
ch – chain
dec – decrease
fhdc – foundation half double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet two together (see below)
pm – place marker
rep – repeat
RS – right side
rsc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
tr – treble crochet
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over

Special Stitches:
hdc2tog: Yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw hook through all 4 loops.

Overall Pattern + Sizing Notes:
• Ch 2 at beginning of row counts as 1 hdc throughout.

• Ch 4 at beginning of row counts as 1 tr throughout.

MAIN SWEATER BODY

Notes:
• Fronts and back are worked at one time from the bottom up until you divide for armholes.

• To make a longer or shorter sweater, eliminate or work additional rows of main sweater body before dividing for front.

Preferred Foundation Row 1 (RS): Fhdc 112 (134, 158, 180, 202).

Alternative Foundation Row: Ch 113 (135, 159, 181, 203).
Alternative Foundation Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch to end of row; turn. [112 (134, 158, 180, 202) hdc]

Row 2 (WS): Ch 4, sk first hdc, *sk next hdc, tr in next hdc, working behind last tr made, tr in skipped hdc (X made), rep from * until turning ch remains, tr in turning ch; turn. [55, (66, 78, 89, 100) Xs; 2 tr]

Row 3 (RS): Ch 2, sk first hdc, hdc in each st to end of row; turn. [112 (134, 158, 180, 202) hdc]

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 23” (approximately 17 times), or to desired length. End with a Row 3. Do not fasten off.

Dividing For Front

Place markers between stitches so that the following sections have the appropriate number of stitches listed:

Left Front: 24 (32, 42, 52, 62) sts, pm
Back: 64 (70, 74, 76, 78) sts, pm
Right Front: 24 (32, 42, 52, 62) sts

Keeping in pattern as established, work each section between markers separately, starting with left front.

Left Front:

Working only between edge and next marker indicating end of Left Front, repeat Rows 2 and 3 from previous section 8 (9, 9, 10, 11) times. Fasten off leaving a 20” tail.

Back:

With WS facing, attach yarn in first st of Back section on right side (left-handed crocheters: left side). Working only between markers indicating Back, repeat Rows 2 and 3 from previous section 8 (9, 9, 10, 11) times. Fasten off leaving a 20” tail.

Right Front:

With WS facing, attach yarn in first st of Right Front section on right side (left-handed crocheters: left side). Working only between marker indicating end of Right Front and edge, repeat Rows 2 and 3 from previous section 8 (9, 9, 10, 11) times. Fasten off leaving a 20” tail.

Seaming:

With right sides facing each other, use stitch markers to pin Right Front to Back and Left Front to Back at shoulders. Use tapestry needle and tails left from fastening off to seam shoulders working through the back loop only.

SLEEVES

Notes:
• Sleeves are picked up along armhole opening and worked in the round.

• Sleeves are worked in unturned rounds with the RS always facing.

• Since extra sweater with is accommodated in the Main Body section, sleeves are same length for all sizes. To make sleeves longer once Round 31 is complete, work additional rounds in the pattern without decreasing.

With RS facing, attach yarn at underarm of either armhole opening.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 53 (61, 63, 67, 75) hdc evenly around armhole opening, sl st to ch-2 from beginning of round to join. [54 (62, 64, 68, 76) hdc]

Round 2 (RS): Ch 4, sk first hdc, *sk next hdc, tr in next hdc, working behind last tr made, tr in skipped hdc (X made), rep from * until turning ch remains, tr in turning ch, sl st to ch-4 from beginning of round to join. [26 (30, 31, 33, 37) Xs, 2 tr]

Round 3: Ch 2, sk first hdc, hdc in each st to end of round, sl st to ch-2 from beginning of round to join. [54 (62, 64, 68, 76) hdc]

Round 4: Rep Round 2. [26 (30, 31, 33, 37) Xs, 2 tr]

Round 5 (dec): Ch 2, sk first hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in each st until 3 sts remain, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, sl st to ch-2 from beginning of round to join. [52 (60, 62, 66, 74) hdc]

Round 6: Rep Round 2. [25 (29, 30, 32, 36) Xs, 2 tr]

Round 7: Rep Round 3. [52 (60, 62, 66, 74) hdc]

Round 8: Rep Round 2. [25 (29, 30, 32, 36) Xs, 2 tr]

Round 9 (dec): Rep Round 5. [50 (58, 60, 64, 72) hdc]

SIZES  S/M (M/L, L/1X, 1X/2X) ONLY:
Rounds 10-25: Rep Rounds 6-9 four more times. Sleeve should have 42 (50, 52, 56) hdc at end of Round 25. Move on to Round 26.

SIZE  2X/3X ONLY:
Rounds 10-25: Rep Rounds [6-9 then 8-9]  twice, then rep rounds 8-9 twice more. Sleeve should have 60 hdc at end of Round 25. Move on to Round 26.

ALL SIZES:
Round 26: Rep Round 2. [20 (24, 25, 27, 29) Xs, 2 tr]

Round 27 (dec): Rep Round 5. [40 (48, 50, 54, 58) hdc]

Rounds 28-29: Rep Rounds 26-27 once more. Sleeve should have 38 (46, 48, 52, 56) hdc at end of Round 29.

Round 30: Rep Round 2. [18 (22, 23, 25, 27) Xs, 2 tr]

Round 31: Ch 2, sk first hdc [hdc2tog, hdc in each of next 35 (7, 7, 6, 4) sts] 1 (5, 5, 6, 9) time(s), 0 (0, 2, 3, 1) hdc, sl st to ch-2 from beginning of round to join. [37 (41, 43, 46, 47) hdc]

Sleeve Edging (RS): Ch 1, rsc in each hdc to end of round, sl st to ch from beginning of round to join. [37 (41, 43, 46, 47) rsc]

POCKETS

Make 2.

Preferred Foundation Row 1 (RS): Fhdc 30.

Alternative Foundation Row: Ch 31.
Alternative Foundation Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch to end of row; turn. (30 hdc)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 4, sk first hdc, *sk next hdc, tr in next hdc, working behind last tr made, tr in skipped hdc (X made), rep from * until turning ch remains, tr in turning ch; turn. (14 Xs, 2 tr)

Row 3 (RS): Ch 2, sk first hdc, hdc in each st to end of row; turn. (30 hdc)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 seven more times. End with a Row 3.

Row 18 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each hdc; turn. (30 sc)

Pocket Edging (RS): Ch 1, rsc in each sc. Fasten off leaving a 30” tail.

FINISHING

Edging on Main Sweater Body:
With WS facing, attach yarn at bottom of right front (this is the left side when wearing sweater). Left-handed crocheters, attach yarn at bottom of left front.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc evenly along edge of first front, along back of neck and down edge of second front; turn.

Row 2: (RS): Ch 1, rsc in each sc along edges of fronts and neck. Fasten off.

Attaching Pockets:
Using stitch markers, pin WS of pocket to RS of sweater as pictured. Thread leftover yarn tail on tapestry needle and whip stitch pocket in place. Repeat for second pocket.

Adding Fringe:
Fringe pieces need to measure approx. 18” long before adding them to cardigan. To quickly cut fringe pieces of all the same length, wrap yarn around a piece of cardboard or a thin book that is approximately 9” tall. Cut at one end.

With RS facing, begin at one corner of cardigan bottom. Insert hook from the front of cardigan toward back and grab three strands of fringe. Pull fringe partially up to front of cardigan. Insert fingers through resulting loop of fringe and pull fringe tails through loop.

Repeat along cardigan bottom so fringe sections are quite close together. Trim as desired. (Fringe pictured in sample is approx. 8.5” long.)

Toss on your newly finished sweater, pop a flower behind your ear and head out to frolic in your fringe!

I love to see your finished projects! Use #MakeAndDoCrew and tag me Instagram (@MakeAndDoCrew) to show off your stitches and have a chance to be featured.

More Free Crochet Boho Patterns

Nurture your inner free spirit with these additional bohemian free crochet patterns from Make & Do Crew! You can always find all our free crochet patterns here.

1. Saratoga Poncho Top – This easy crochet top is made from two simple rectangles.

2. Moonrise Boho Purse – A richly textured bag with instructions for an optional leather strap.

3. Urban Nomad Boho Bag – The creative construction of this fringed bag will keep you interested until the last stitch.

4. Taos Slipper Boots – Crocheted on top of a pair of flip flops, these cozy mukluk style boots are as cozy as they look.

The post Easy Fringed Crochet Long Cardigan – Free Pattern appeared first on Make & Do Crew.

  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 

Whip up this easy crochet basket with basic stitches and simple construction. Chucky yarn ensures you’ll have this versatile basket done before you can decide what to fill it with! Free pattern and tutorial below, or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here.


Thanks to Lion Brand Yarns for providing the yarn for this free easy crochet basket pattern. This post contains affiliate links.

Welcome back to the Make & Do Crew guest designer series. While I’m getting to know the newest baby in our family, Lou from Malloo is sharing her free easy crochet basket pattern with us today! You can see lots of of Lou’s crochet patterns her blog, Malloo, Etsy, and Ravelry. And be sure to check her out on social media too: Instagram and Pinterest. Lou, take it away!

The Inspiration for My Easy Crochet Basket Pattern

Hello! My name is Lou and I am here today to share a free crochet basket pattern with all of you. Crochet baskets are some of my favorites things to make as I like to keep things organized.

The Maja basket is actually my 4th basket pattern and definitely the biggest! It is meant to be placed on the floor and holds just about anything. From the kids toys, to magazines to the lap blanket you keep by your couch for those cold winter nights. It’s not just me, am I right?

Designed to look like it belongs to the pages of a Scandinavian style magazine, it will enhance the coziness of every room. Very simple in construction, as all crochet baskets are, but with a different and interesting pattern near the top, that I bet you have not seen anywhere else. It is created by slip stitches and alternating colors and I just love that it almost looks like herringbone.

And because I am so indecisive and this pattern has 2 totally cool looks, front and back, you will get two versions of this basket! Sorry, but I just couldn’t decide if I like better the taller version or the rolled down one. I hope you don’t mind…;-)

A Chunky Crochet Basket Perfect For Beginners

Anyone who knows the basic crochet stitches can make this basket. It is easy enough for a beginner, but I bet it will hold the interest of seasoned crocheters, too, due to its unique construction.

As you can see you will use two different sizes of crochet hooks. The bottom and the main body will be worked with the 10 mm crochet hook and extremely tight tension. The black and white pattern though, will be worked with the 11.5 mm crochet hook and very loose tension.

And when I say loose, I mean really loose. You should consider pulling up the loop on your hook before making the next stitch. This is because slip stitches tend to be very tight and the specific pattern tends to also curl up on itself. If you crochet this part too tight, it will add extra weight to the upper part and the basket won’t be able to hold its shape. A good way to avoid this, is to just loosen up as much as you can!

When you finish the bottom of your basket the pattern mentions to “slip stitch in the third loop only” (sl st in tlo). If you are unfamiliar with this technique you can check out this tutorial here  on how to locate the third loop of a half double crochet.

A Durable Yarn, Sturdy Enough For Household Items

I used Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick for the Maja basket, which I believe is perfect for this pattern. It is a strong and durable yarn, ideal for household items that you want to keep their shape. It comes in a great variety of colors (see them all here!), and you can choose the combination that suits your interests and your house best.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I chose the ever so classic of black with fisherman. I just believe that this combo is so classy! You will need 6 skeins of the fisherman and 2 skeins of the black, and you will hold two strands of yarn throughout the project. This is what gives the sturdiness and the huge size of the basket. You may have to do a little shaping at the end exactly because of its huge size. You will find more info on this near the end.

More Free Crochet Patterns For Your Home

If you want to add some more crochet flare to your home, you won’t want to miss these modern crochet patterns that Make & Do Crew readers love. The best part is — they are all free! You can find all our free crochet patterns for the home here.

1. Quad Color Throw // 2. Dollar Store Twine + Leather Basket // 3. Sampler Pouf // 4. Sedona Fringed Throw

Maja Basket
Free Crochet Pattern

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here

Save this pattern on your Ravelry queue here

Pin it for later here

Explanation:
Inspired by the Nordic lifestyle and minimalistic living, the Maja basket is here to add a touch of luxury in your living room. Simple in construction, as it uses the most basic crochet stitches, it will capture the interest of both beginners and advanced crocheters. Challenge yourself with this basket pattern as you should change the way you crochet, from very firm to very loose, throughout the project.

Supplies:
Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick – (weight 6/super bulky – 106 yds, 6 oz.)
Fisherman (#640-099) – 6 balls
Black (#640-153) – 2 balls
Size N (10 mm) crochet hook
Size P (11.5 mm) crochet hook
• Small cardboard 4×5 inches for tassels
• Yarn needle
• Scissors

Sizes/Measurements:
• One size – 13.5 x 13.5 inches

Gauge:
• 7 sts and 7 rows = 4 inches in sc with 10 mm crochet hook

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
R: round
MR: Magic Ring
hdc: half double crochet
sl st: slip stitch
ch(s): chain(s)
st: stitch
inc: increase
dec: decrease
sc: single crochet
tlo: third loop only
flo: front loop only

Overall Pattern Notes:
• The pattern is worked in joined rounds.

• The first stitch of every round is worked in the same stitch as the slip stitch.

• Color A: Fisherman

Color B: Black

With 10 mm crochet hook and color A.

R1: MR, 10 hdc in ring, sl st to join, ch 1  (10)

R2: 2 hdc in each st around, sl st, ch 1  (20)

R3: * hdc, inc * repeat from * to * around, sl st, ch 1  (30)

R4: * hdc 2, inc * repeat from * to * around, sl st, ch 1  (40)

R5: * hdc 3, inc * repeat from * to * around, sl st, ch 1  (50)

R6: * hdc 4, inc * repeat from * to * around, sl st, ch 1  (60)

R7: * hdc 5, inc * repeat from * to * around, sl st, ch 1  (70)

R8: * hdc 6, inc * repeat from * to * around, sl st, ch 1  (80)

At this point the flat circle measures 13.5 inches.

R9: sl st in tlo in each st around, join with a sl st in the first sl st, ch 1  (80)

R10-25: sc in each st around, sl st, ch 1  (80)

Change to 11.5 mm crochet hook and color B. Work rounds 26-31 VERY loosely. Consider pulling each loop on your hook up a bit before making the next slip stitch.

R26: sl st under both loops in each st around, sl st in first sl st to join, ch 1  (80)

Change to color B.

R27: sl st in flo in each st around, sl st in first sl st to join, ch 1  (80)

R28-31: repeat rounds 26 and 27 and remember to alternate colors in each round.

Stop here for the rolled down version of the basket and look below for the tassel tutorial and placement.

Change to 10 mm crochet hook.

R32: * sc 6, dec * repeat from * to * around, sl st, ch 1  (70)

R33-34: sc in each st around, sl st, ch 1  (70)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Tassel Tutorial

1. Cut a cardboard 4×5 inches. Wrap yarn 15 times, cut yarn.

2. Cut a piece of yarn, approximately 20 inches, and tie a knot on top.

3. Remove the yarn from the cardboard, make a second knot to secure the tassel and cut through the other end.

4. Make a loop with the same yarn (I used white so you can see what I am doing) and start wrapping around the loop and tassel.

5. When you are done wrapping, cut the yarn and place the end in the loop.

6. Pull the upper end, until the knot disappears inside the wrapping.

7. Cut both loose ends and trim the tassel. It’s ready!

Tassel Placement

Make 4 tassels using the tutorial above.The final size of each tassel is about 4 inches. Sew or just make a knot to join them onto the basket if you wish to remove them at some point.

Add the first tassel in the 15th stitch between rounds 24 and 25. Add the rest of the tassels 20 stitches apart from each other.

That’s it! Enjoy!

Well done! Now that you have finished your crochet basket there is a little shaping to be done. Nothing too difficult! Just shape it out with your hands. I have found that in some extreme cases you may have to spray your basket with some water and place it upside down to dry. I used 3 large bowls on top of each other so that the basket can hang freely and take its shape. That’s it! I hope you enjoyed making your Maja basket.

Thanks again to Lou from MallooKnits.com for sharing this free easy crochet basket pattern! Be sure to check out Lou’s blog for lots more free modern crochet patterns!

More Free Modern Crochet Patterns for Your Home

Looking for more ways to DIY your home? Check out these free crochet patterns and storage ideas! You can always find all our free crochet patterns and tutorials here.

1. Jacqueline Easy Crochet Basket – This easy crochet basket pattern is quick to work up and perfect for holding toys, towels, toiletries or best of all, yarn!

2. Corner to Corner Crochet Deer Afghan – Hello ombre! This corner to corner crochet deer afghan will be a hit with your favorite baby, hipster or hunter. Free c2c downloadable graph pattern included.

3. Mudcloth Crochet Pillow – This free crochet pillow pattern uses a mud-cloth-inspired design to make a modern piece of couch flair! Excellent pattern for beginners!

4. DIY Yarn Storage Shelves – If you’re looking for a beautiful way to organize your stash, these DIY yarn storage shelves offer an easy, modern solution. The wooden crates make them perfectly customizable to fit your closet, craft room, or heck–your bedroom!

The post Easy Crochet Basket – Free Pattern by Malloo appeared first on Make & Do Crew.

  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 

Add some sass to your style with this cropped crochet summer top with bell sleeves. Sassy not your thing? This lacy crochet sweater is easily customizable to be full length, short sleeve, sleeveless–whatever your heart (and hook) desires. Get the full free crochet pattern below.


Thanks to Lion Brand Yarns for providing the yarn for this free crochet summer top pattern. This post contains affiliate links.

Welcome back to the Make & Do Crew guest designer series. While I’m getting to know the newest baby in our family, Kelsie from Crafting For Weeks is sharing her free crochet summer top pattern with us today! You can see lots of of Kelsie’s crochet patterns her blog, Crafting For Weeks, Etsy, and Ravelry. And be sure to check her out on social media too: Instagram, Pinterest, and Facebook. Kelsie, take it away!

The Inspiration for My Crochet Summer Top

When I started designing this sweater, the only thing I knew was that I wanted it to have dramatic bell sleeves. My original thought was to go with a simple v-neck, but after getting it all assembled, it just didn’t look quite like I hoped. But as a somewhat new designer, I’m no stranger to frogging a project.

Since I knew that I wanted to salvage my sleeves, I started looking through my crochet books for something that just jumped out at me to use for the body piece. I found a stitch called Peephole Chevron stitch that seemed to have the perfect texture for a spring garment.

I was so much happier with the result of using some different stitches to create some lace effect and texture. Plus, I was able to keep my dramatic sleeves. I love the drape and feel of this sweater once it all came together.

Double Crochet Is All You Need To Know!

This pattern is fairly simple in at its core. The only stitch you’ll really see through the entire pattern is a double crochet stitch or a variation of it. Because of the variations in the double crochet stitches and the assembly requirements, I have called this an intermediate pattern. But if you can do a double crochet stitch and read a crochet pattern fairly well, this a great pattern for even a beginner to try out.

Since I know that crop tops with dramatic sleeves aren’t everyone’s ideal garment (trust me, I’m 2 months postpartum with my 3rd child, lol) I tried to give some variation on the pattern. It’s very easy to adjust the length by adding rows. And if you want don’t want long sleeves, you can make a quick short sleeve or just leave the sleeves off entirely for a cap sleeve style.

A Cotton Yarn With Beautiful Drape for Summer

I used Lion Brand Coboo yarn for this project. This is a CYC weight 3 yarn. Its made from a combination of cotton and bamboo fibers. I wanted to use a cotton blend so that it would be a bit more breathable for spring and summer.

This yarn is a bit unique because its a multi-stranded yarn. Instead of being spun or twisted together, it’s more like several threads held together and wound into a cake. This type of yarn gives absolutely amazing drape, but you do have to be careful not to split the yarn as you’re working. (You can see all the colors of Lion Brand Coboo here.)

I found that if I used a slightly more in-line hook, I didn’t have problems with my yarn splitting. If you were to substitute this yarn, I would recommend another CYC weight 3 or DK yarn that meets the gauge.

More Free Crochet Patterns for Spring

If you love this lightweight crochet summer top, you might also like to check out these free crochet garment patterns that are perfect for warm weather. You can always find all our free patterns for spring here.


1. Desert Winds Scarf //2. Day Date Cardigan //3. Moonrise Bag // 4. Summer Slippers

Pin This Pattern for Later

Willow Crop
Free Crochet Top Pattern

Explanation:
The Willow Crop Top is an ultra-versatile crochet sweater. This top has a lacy design with dramatic bell sleeves. However, if long sleeves aren’t your cup of tea, this pattern has the option to make it into short sleeve top. This sweater can easily be made to whatever length you choose, whether it be flirty crop-length or a beautiful full-length. It’s made with Lion Brand Coboo, which is a Cotton/Bamboo yarn. This yarn has amazing drape and is super lightweight, making it a perfect addition to your spring/summer wardrobe. This pattern is an intermediate level of difficulty. While it uses basic stitches, it requires some experience with reading patterns.

Supplies:
Lion Brand Coboo (weight: 4/worsted – 400 yards, 3.5 oz)
Lilac (#835-143) – 4-7 balls
Size H (5.5 mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Measuring tape

Sizes/Measurements:
• X-Small: 15” Length, 15” Width, 21” Sleeve (860 yds/4 skeins)

• Small: 16” Length, 17” Width, 21” Sleeve (980 yds/5 skeins)

• Medium: 17” Length, 19” Width, 21” Sleeve (1100 yds/5 skeins)

• Large: 18” Length, 21” Width, 21” Sleeve (1240 yds/6 skeins)

• X-Large: 19” Length, 23” Width, 21” Sleeve (1380 yds/6 skeins)

• 2X-Large: 20” Length, 25” Width, 21” Sleeve (1520 yds/7 skeins)

Gauge:
• 20 stitches x 7 rows = 4” square

• Pattern for Gauge: (Peephole Chevron Stitch)
– Row 1: Ch 22. DC in 3rd chain from hook. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. *Skip 2 Ch. DC in next 4 Ch spaces. Ch 2. DC in each of the next 4 Ch spaces.* Repeat from * until you reach the last Ch space. DC 2 in the last Ch space.

– Row 2-7: Ch 3 and turn. DC in first stitch (same stitch as Ch 3). *DC in next 3 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. DC 1, Ch 2, DC 1 in the Ch 2 spaces from the previous row.*  Repeat from * until you reach the turning Ch. DC 2 in the turning Ch.

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
DC – Double Crochet
Ch – Chain
DC2Tog – Double Crochet Two Together, Whip Stitch

Overall Pattern Notes:
• Top is made to be slightly oversized to accentuate the drape. For a more fitted top, go down one size.

• Sweater can be made full-length by adding rows until it reaches desired length. Additional yarn will be needed to make full-length version.

• Sweater can be made short sleeved by leaving off bell-sleeves and substituting short sleeve directions. Alternatively you can leave off sleeves entirely and seam the sides, leaving space for armholes.

• Panels are worked in increments of 10 stitches (+2 turning stitches) to adjust the size of your sweater panels, add or subtract 10 stitches at a time.

• Parentheses are used to differentiate between sizes throughout the pattern. Sizes are as follows (X-Small, Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X-Large)

BACK PANEL

The panels can be made in cropped or full-length depending on how long you want your sweater to be. Row count recommendations are included for both crop and full length. However, to tailor your sweater, simply add or subtract rows to adjust the length. For a more fitted sweater, it is recommended that you size your panels down one size.

Ch 102 (82, 92, 102, 112, 122, 132).

Row 1: DC in 3rd chain from hook (Note: Ch spaces count as first stitch throughout panels). DC in each of the next 3 stitches. *Skip 2 Ch. DC in next 4 Ch spaces. Ch 2. DC in each of the next 4 Ch spaces.* Repeat from * until you reach the last Ch space. DC 2 in the last Ch space.

Row 2: Ch 3 and turn. DC in first stitch (same stitch as Ch 3). *DC in next 3 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. DC 1, Ch 2, DC 1 in the Ch 2 spaces from the previous row.*  Repeat from * until you reach the turning Ch. DC 2 in the turning Ch.

Repeat Row 2 until work reaches desired length, taking note of how many rows were worked.

For Crop: (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40)

For Full Length: (48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58)

Tie off and weave in ends.

FRONT PANEL

Ch 102 (82, 92, 102, 112, 122, 132).  

DC in 3rd chain from hook (Note: Ch spaces count as first stitch throughout panels). DC in each of the next 3 stitches. *Skip 2 Ch. DC in next 4 Ch spaces. Ch 2. DC in each of the next 4 Ch spaces.* Repeat from * until you reach the last Ch space. DC 2 in the last Ch space.

Row 2: Ch 3 and turn. DC in first stitch (same stitch as Ch 3). *DC in next 3 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. DC 1, Ch 2, DC 1 in the Ch 2 spaces from the previous row.*  Repeat from * until you reach the turning Ch. DC 2 in the turning Ch.

Repeat Row 2 until you have reach 6 (6,6,6,6,8,8) rows less than the back panel. Do not tie off, but continue to neckline shaping without breaking yarn.

NECKLINE SHAPING

We will now begin to shape the neckline by continuing with the working yarn. This will involve ending the rows early and turning. Each row will end in the peak of a chevron. If you would prefer a boxy, straight-across neckline, skip the shaping steps and make the front panel exactly the same as the back panel.

SHOULDER

Row 1: Ch 3 and turn.  DC in first stitch (same stitch as Ch 3). *DC in next 3 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. [DC 1, Ch 2, DC 1] in the Ch 2 spaces from the previous row.*  Repeat from * 2(1,1,2,2,3,3) more times. DC in next 3 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. DC 1 in the chain space from the previous row.

Row 2: Ch 3 and turn. DC in first stitch (same stitch as Ch 3). DC in next 2 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. [DC 1, Ch 2, DC 1] in the Ch 2 spaces from the previous row.  *DC in next 3 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. [DC 1, Ch 2, DC 1] in the Ch 2 spaces from the previous row.*  Repeat from * until you reach the turning Ch. DC 2 in the turning Ch.

Row 3: Ch 3 and turn.  DC in first stitch (same stitch as Ch 3). *DC in next 3 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. [DC 1, Ch 2, DC 1] in the Ch 2 spaces from the previous row.*  Repeat from * 1 (0,0,1,1,2,2) more times. DC in next 3 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. DC 1 in the chain space from the previous row.

Row 4: Ch 3 and turn. DC in first stitch (same stitch as Ch 3). DC in next 2 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. [DC 1, Ch 2, DC 1] in the Ch 2 spaces from the previous row.  *DC in next 3 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. [DC 1, Ch 2, DC 1] in the Ch 2 spaces from the previous row.*  Repeat from * until you reach the turning Ch. DC 2 in the turning Ch.

Row 5: Ch 3 and turn.  DC in first stitch (same stitch as Ch 3). *DC in next 3 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. [DC 1, Ch 2, DC 1] in the Ch 2 spaces from the previous row.*  Repeat from * (0,0,1,1,2,2) more time. DC in next 3 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 2 stitches. DC 2 in the turning ch.

Row 6: Repeat Row 4 (For sizes XS-Large, tie off and weave ends after Row 6)

Row 7: Ch 3 and turn.  DC in first stitch (same stitch as Ch 3). *DC in next 3 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 3 stitches. [DC 1, Ch 2, DC 1] in the Ch 2 spaces from the previous row.*  Repeat from * (-,-,-,-,2,2) more time. DC in next 3 stitches. Sk 2 stitches. DC in each of the next 2 stitches. DC 2 in the turning ch.

Row 8: Repeat Row 4. Tie off and weave in ends.

OPPOSITE SHOULDER

Attach Yarn on opposite side of top and repeat Rows 1-6(8).

SLEEVES

To tailor sleeves to fit your needs, you can measure your arm at its widest point, just below the armpit. Take this measurement and add 2” and that will be the length of the starting chain you will need for your sleeve.

For Bell Sleeves:

Row 1: Ch 55 (51, 53, 55, 59, 63, 67). DC in the 4th Ch from hook (Ch spaces count as first stitch throughout sleeves). DC in next Ch space each Ch across.

Row 2-4: Ch 3 (counts as first stitch) and turn. DC in next stitch and each stitch across. (48, 50, 52, 56, 60, 64)

Row 5: Ch 3 and turn. DC2Tog over next 2 stitches. DC in each stitch across until 3 stitches (including the turning Ch) remain. DC2Tog over next 2 stitches. DC in turning Ch.

Row 6-8: Repeat Rows 2-4

Row 9: Repeat Row 5

Row 10-12: Repeat Rows 2-4

Row 13: Repeat Row 5

Row 14-16: Repeat Rows 2-4

Row 17: Repeat Row 5

Row 18: Ch 3. DC in same stitch. DC in each stitch across.

Row 19-40: Repeat Row 18 (continue repeat until sleeve reaches desired length)

Make 2 sleeves.

For Short Sleeves:

Row 1: Ch 55 (51, 53, 55, 59, 63, 67). DC in 4th Ch from hook (counts as first stitch). DC in next Ch space and each Ch across. (48, 50, 52, 56, 60, 64)

Row 2-6: Ch 3 and turn. DC in next stitch and each stitch across. (continue repeat until sleeve reaches desired length)

Make 2 sleeves.

Fold sleeve in half lengthwise for bell sleeves (short ends together for short sleeved version). Whip stitch along the length of the sleeve using a tapestry needle. Tie off and weave in ends.

ASSEMBLY

Connecting Panels:

Line up the top edges of the Front Panel with the top edges of the Back Panel.

Whip stitch the top edges of both pieces together, stopping when you reach the edge of the last row of Neckline Shaping.

Attaching Sleeves:

1) Open the Front and Back Panels, so that the right sides are facing up. Turn your sleeves right side out.

2) Lay first sleeve across the Back Panel with the top (shoulder portion) of the sleeve meeting the point where the panels are sewn together. The sleeve seam should be pointing toward the bottom edge.

3) Fold the Front Panel down over the sleeve. You should now have your sleeve sandwiched between the two panels with the wrong sides of the panels facing out. The edge of the top of the sleeve should line up along the top one side.

4) Whip stitch the sleeve into place, then continue to whip stitch down the side of the two panels. When you open the panels, you should have one sleeve and one side seam finished with all the whip stitches on the wrong side.

5) Repeat with opposite sleeve.

Thanks again to Kelsie of CraftingForWeeks.com for sharing this free crochet summer top pattern! Be sure to check out Kelsie’s blog for lots more free modern crochet patterns!

More Free Modern Crochet Patterns for Warm Weather

If you’re interested in more free beginner crochet patterns for warm weather, here are a few of the most loved by M&DC crocheters.

1. Alchemy Cardigan – This lightweight sweater is perfect to throw on for summer evenings. Extensive video tutorials walk you through every step of the free pattern. Sizes S-4X.

2. Saratoga Poncho Top – This popular pattern is made from two simple rectangles to create a boho style that’s flattering on a variety of bodies. Sizes S-3X.

3. Canyonlands Boho Crochet Top – If feminine, bohemian style is your thing, you’re going to love this T-style top. Sizes S-3X.

4. Andie Crochet Top – A lightweight crochet top with cap sleeves that uses basic crochet stitches to create a beautiful texture. Gathers add a flattering touch for any figure. Sizes XS-3X.

The post Crochet Summer Top – Free Pattern by Crafting For Weeks appeared first on Make & Do Crew.

Read for later

Articles marked as Favorite are saved for later viewing.
close
  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 

Separate tags by commas
To access this feature, please upgrade your account.
Start your free month
Free Preview