It's a compulsion, I just have to sew, sew, sew! Initially this blog was to be all about pattern cutting & no commercial pattern use was to dare grace its hallowed pages. I hope the main focus will still be me sketching & creating my own patterns, especially as all the people I make for have their own figure quirks, but I am certainly not above using commercial patterns.
More T-shirts! These are the first of the “new to me” patterns. I’ll start with the Grainline Lark Tee. I bought this pattern a year or so ago, but have only made one tee from it, and that was for a friend! I had the PDF pattern, and sent the copyshop off to the other half to print for me at the office on their nice big plotter. It was about time to use the pattern for myself, I went with the short sleeve, v-neck version.
Grainline Lark Tee
I traced the 12, based on my high bust measurement, and made a FBA as described on Maria Denmark’s website. There’s only one thing that’s constantly bugging me, there is a fold of fabric that ends up looking like I need to dart it out at the armhole. I have already done that in paper, but the little bugger is still there! Any tips, tee shirt gurus?? The fabric for this one came from the NEC, I forget exactly which stall. I love the graduated sizes of the white and black stripes, it’s a viscose/modal jersey, soft and drapey and lovely to wear.
I’m really happy with how it all turned out, I have to admit I was a little worried going with such a “small” size! But it worked! The sleeves are the perfect length, and I like the fit on the body, especially the looseness around the waist and hips. The instructions are pretty good, the neckband went in very well too. I just need to remember the seam allowance on this pattern is very, very small, only 6mm! I forgot that on the first seam, and sewed the shoulders at 1cm instead… It doesn’t seem to have done any damage, even the sleeve head went in ok.
The second tee for today is one I know I will be making loads more of! I downloaded the Basic Instinct Tee from Sasha at SecondoPiano – finally!! I’d seen lots of versions of the tee on Instagram (just search the hastag #basicinstincttee) and really liked the relaxed fit that everyone was achieving. While a fitted tee is great, I like a loose one more for the summer. I had one more blue and white striped jersey from Montreux Fabric to use, this one has a cool double thin white stripe on a navy blue ground. The fibre content is polyester/viscose, I try not to buy polyester, but the stripe was too good to pass up!
Basic Instinct Tee
Sasha has written brilliant instructions, and has spent a lot of time making sure her tee can be made with lots of different stripe patterns, and that those stripes will line up everywhere. If you take the time to do it.. I have to hang my head and say I ignored those bits of the pattern and instructions and just ploughed on (I really really wanted to wear this tee – fast). I promise that the next one I do I will definitely follow the stripe matching instructions. The pattern is simple, round neck, short sleeves and relaxed, loose fit throughout. It’s incredibly comfortable! I don’t usually go for high necklines like this, I don’t like the feel of fabric so close to my neck, but this is just fine, even for a fusspot like me!
I made the XL, no FBA, no adjustments – next time I think I’ll size down, see how it goes. It all went together incredibly well, great instructions and very well drafted pattern. I highly recommend this pattern, subscribe and you’re in business! This is the perfect pattern for allotment tees, the loose fit means more comfort in the heat & the round neck keeps the sun off me. I have to make lots and lots more! Thanks Sasha, for a brilliant little tee pattern!
There they go again, I just cannot keep my hands out of my pockets!
I have one more tee to show off, and I still cannot decide on my favourite! I think I might need to get a few plain coloured tops now though, there are enough stripes! What’s your favourite t-shirt pattern to make?
Still catching up on what we made in May here! You would have read in the last post about the trousers that Daughter No2 and I were both working away on her “fix it” pile, and making some new things. While I was happy to make for her (and always am), I knew we both had to be sewing to get it all done in the short amount of time we had. So while I made that last pair, I tasked her with another.
Trousers 120 03/2017
The trousers Daughter No 2 made are the cropped trousers, #120 from March issue of Burda. She’d ideally had had them as they are, fabric and all, but I had nothing like that in the stash! However, I did have a floral print slightly stretchy cotton that she’d chosen a couple of years ago at one of the exhibitions at the NEC. It was duly allocated to this pattern and we were off. I traced the 38 again, based on her hip measurements, and we used the toile to refine the fit.
She did all the toile sewing, while I pinned and marked and instructed. So she can sew, but she’s not confident at all in doing it on her own. But leave her alone in a kitchen for a couple of hours and wait to see what comes out! We all have our talents, right? Anyway, as before, we had to take the waist in a lot, just smaller than the 34, changed the crotch curve and depth, took in the inseams front and back down to the knee, and reduced the width of the outside seams this time too. They came in 0.5cm starting just below the hip yoke pocket, down to the knee. They were just a little baggy there for her.
So, a lot of adjustments and unpicking, but all worth it before sewing in the nice stuff! The pattern has slits at the hem, hip yoke pockets, a shaped waistband and invisible zip. The shaped waistbands are really helpful to perfect fit, and I usually cut the back with a centre seam, rather than on the fold, so there’s more room for adjusting. Which is just what we had to do in the final making up! The stretch cotton had too much movement, so I had to pin a bit more out of the centre back, changing the back seam slightly.
Hip yoke pockets
She’s done a fabulous sewing job here, and didn’t loose her cool that much… I know these are going to be well worn over the summer, she’s even bought new shoes to go with them! Workng together, we also managed to finish that fit it pile, and she went back to Birmingham with a bulging suitcase.
When summer comes calling, I love wearing my t-shirts, easy to pull on, easy to wear, it’s a no-brainer, really. When Montreux Fabrics announced on Instagram that they had a very short 50% discount off all jersey deal, I had to get some, despite having bought a decent amount of fabric at the NEC in March, some of it from them! I also had a stripe binge on, I love stripes! And blue. Especially in the summer, when my wardrobe staple colour of shades of greys turns to shades of blues. Once washed, dried and ironed, they languished for a bit while I finished up other projects – and tried to decide which patterns to use.
I have a couple of patterns I’ve bought for tees, and my own block. The fit on the Birgitte Basic tee is hard to beat, for me, anyway. I followed Maria’s instructions for the FBA and have ended up with a tee pattern that’s pretty darned good. So I decided two of the pieces would be Birgittes, one V-neck and one scoop. A couple of years ago I raised that scoop neck when I made some contrast colour tees, I like the height of that new scoop, especially if I’m going to be on the allotment, bending over…
I started with the V-neck, using a blue and white random stripe fabric – no pattern matching required!! Composition is Micro Modal and Elastene, it feels nice and cool to the touch. As all my adjustments were already done, all I needed to do was cut and sew! In hindsight, I should have payed a little more attention to exactly where all those stripes were going, but it’s too late now!
Birgitte Basic Tee from Maria Denmark
The second tee, scoop neck version was made using a navy blue and white stripe, which also comes in a red/pink. The fibre content is Viscose and elastane, and it’s another lovely fabric, lighter than the first. This time all stripes were pinned, I pinned the fabric together before cutting out, checked the stripes going across and lined up a white stripe at the underarm on the front, back and armhole pieces so it would all line up. I even pinned every second stripe (front and back) together and basted with the sewing machine before heading to the overlocker! Those suckers were NOT going to move…
And it worked! I always pin and then sewing machine baste the neckbands on t-shirts, I don’t trust myself enough with the overlocker to ensure everything is straight all the time, it’s much easier to maintain seam allowance width on the sewiing machine! So I stitch with the machine, then overlock. I use a 4mm twin needle for topstitching the neckbands, it looks better than the narrower one. I have a 2.5mm twin needle that’s used for hems.
Scoop Neck version of Birgitte Basic Tee from Maria Denmark
All in all, a very successful pair of tees to wear this summer (and for the forseeable future). I managed another three tees, using different patterns, all new to me. Stay tuned to see them and find out how I got on!
ps: The links are just there for you to find what I used, no money has or will change hands! Or fabric…
Making a good start on that long list of items for Daughter No 2, she’d identified a couple of pairs of trousers she really really wanted, and had allocated fabric from the stash! The tracing was done and when she came home for a week, I decided to get making, but with conditions…
She helped me in my allotment in the mornings (vitamin D and excercise) and then in the afternoon, we would sew together. She’d also made a pile of summer clothes that came out of the loft that needed attention. So we had our week’s worth of work laid out!
Burda trousers 113 08/2017
The first pair of trousers is 113 from Burda 08/2017. The fabric chosen to make them up came from ( I think) Ditto Fabrics, a good few years ago now. Daughter No 2 is slightly pear shaped, narrow waist and broader hips. There is usually a 2 size difference, so I traced the equivalent of the 38, going by her hip easurement. It’s a petite pattern, so I lengthened it: 1cm in the crotch depth, 1.5cm between the hip and knee and another 2cm between the knee and the hem. That should make it the right length for an “average” height person. Then I toiled and made the fitting adjustments on her to get the waist perfect. This was especially needed as the waistband doesn’t sit on the natural waist. But one thing didn’t quite work out. The length!!! The photo in the magazine clearly shows the model’s ankles and bottom part of her leg below the hem of the trousers, that was not happening with ours! You would expect Burdastyle to photograph the petite garments on petite models, yes?? I think they have used their standard height tall people here, there’s no other way to get the length they have, because even on shortening the pattern again (except for the crotch depth adjustment), it still wasn’t as short as on the model in the picture. And at 1.76cm tall, you cannot call Daughter No2 “average” height…
In the end we kept the length as it was originally traced, and narrowed the waist to just below the size 34. I took a bit out of the centre back to accomodate her posture, scooped out the crotch line and changed the shape of the curve – also a posture adjustment, and took in the inside seam, front seam by 1cm and back seam by 2, all tapering back to normal by the knee. I also added pockets! You need pocketses, so I drew up a pattern for inseam pockets, nice deep ones that ones phone won’t fall out of…
Inseam pocketses for the win!
I really love the finished pants, the colour of the fabric is turquoise with very dark blue diamond shapes, it looks black, but it’s not! I like that Daughter No 2 is confident to change it up with different shoes, and tops. I hope they get lots of wear this summer! That was a May Burda Challenge project, but as it’s only been blogged now in June, I’m calling it for June instead!
Hellooo, lovely patient people! I have a load of gorgeous clothes to show off, if you follow me on Instagram, you’ll have an idea of what I have to catch up on! The first will be a dress I made at the end of April for Daughter no 2, the last project for April’s Burda Challenge 2018.
The pattern is #132 from April 2011, the dress in the magazine is made from leather, but we have a lovely piece of warm blue denim. I’d bought the fabric from Rosenberg and Sons at the NEC about 3-4 years ago to make a little pair of dungarees for a child, but never got round to it… Time to make something different! There was only 1m, but it was just enough for the main dress pieces. As the original dress was made in leather, there weren’t any facing pieces for the neckline and armholes, and no hem. Cue lots of bias binding!
Dress #132 Burda April 2011
I traced the 38, which is the smallest size this pattern comes in. I only toiled the bodice, and this showed we needed a paper dart in the back armhole, and to take in the side seams under the arm by 1.5-2cm. In order to fit all the pattern pieces on the fabric, I omitted the hem allowance and used a piece of wide bias binding to make a false hem.
The pockets in the front seams are cool, topstitched on, but could probably do with being a slightly different shape, deeper would be more practical. The denim is perfect for the dress, the shape is held really well but the denim is soft, so it feels really nice. The length is also just right, daughter no 2 doesn’t like skirts too short. It was quick and easy to make, and I recon it would work really well in a heavier fabric for the winter – to wear with a long sleeved tee or thin jumper underneath.
We had fun taking pictures of the dress, I needed to water the new plants on the allotment so planned to take photos there, but we found a fluffy friend! She was very happy to be the photobomber.
That was the last project for April, May started off badly – productivity wise – but ended on a high! Of course, there was Me-Made-May going on in the background, which has been great this year. I’ve been inspired!
I’m a bit behind on my blogging, I have two dresses and a pair of trousers completed, and a top almost there! But neither have been shown off yet….
Burda trousers 139 04/2011
I’ll start with the trousers. Looking through 8 years of Burda magazines for April, I found a lot of patterns I’d wanted to make way back then, but obviously never got round to. One of them is this pattern. It’s 139 from April 2011, in the plus size section. I traced the 44 and reduced the leg length by 4cm, remembering that the last time I lopped off 6cm that it was a trifle too much. I didn’t bother to toile, as the waistband is elasticated and there’ll be more than enough room (I know, not normally something I would go for).
The reason why I wanted to make these was purely because of the width of the leg and the detail at the hem, it’s nice to have something a little different. In hindsight, regarding the length, I should have gone the whole hog and chopped off 6cm. If I’m wearing these trousers with trainers or sandals with “platforms” or a wedge sole, I’m fine, but around the house in my bare feet they are too long and I keep standing on the buttons and elastic in the hem bands!
The fabric I chose is the first of the pieces I got at the NEC to be used. I had hoped to start of that lot earlier, but never mind. As long as none of it lasts passed the summer, I’ll be happy. It’s not allowed to enter the stash! It’s a navy and white washed cotton and linen blend, and I cannot remember which stall it came from. I had 2m and it was just enough for this pattern with the width of the leg pieces, and the length… If I’d taken out those other 2 cm it would have been a more comfortable fit on the fabric, but no worries, it all worked out.
There are in seam pockets in the side seams, that fabulous pleated detail at the hem and a wide grown-on elastic waistband. I have to admit that these are super comfy, I have worn them three times already and only today managed to get blog photos! The linen is soft and floppy, just what I like. Please excuse the creases, I hadn’t got round to getting photos before we went out, so I’ve done a lot of sitting…
Putting them together was without incident, but keep an eye on the line drawing when it comes to asembling the hem bands and sewing on the buttons etc. The only thing I’d change is the elastic inthe hem bands. I can’t really figure out why it’s in there as the tab isn’t short enough to pull it up. I shortened the elastic in my hem bands so that there would be resistance and there would be gathering in the band when the tab was pulled to the end button.
I really like these trousers, and I can see another being made in the not too distant future. That’s another project done for April BurdaChallenge2018, I’m working on some Japanese inspired stuff this week, haven’t even looked at the May magazines yet!!
Read Full Article
Scroll to Top
Separate tags by commas
To access this feature, please upgrade your account.