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Winter is over! Now is the time to be thinking about
cool projects for spring and summer, so today we’re bringing you a simple, yet
pretty, lace stitch. Seafoam stitch
is a knitted stitch featuring lace diamonds worked into the fabric using knit stitch and drop stitch.
For symmetry, you should cast on a multiple of 10 + 5
stitches. For the sample, we cast on 25 stitches in total.
Rows 1 and 2: knit all stitches.
Row 3: *knit 5,
knit 1 wrapping the yarn around the needle 2 times, knit 1 wrapping the yarn
around the needle 3 times, knit 1 wrapping the yarn around the needle 4 times, knit
1 wrapping the yarn around the needle 3 times and knit 1 wrapping the yarn
around the needle 2 times*. Repeat from * to * until there are 5 stitches left
and knit them.
Row 4: knit all stitches, dropping the extra wraps
from the needle.
Rows 5 and 6: knit all stitches.
How to knit seafoam stitch I | WE ARE KNITTERS - YouTube
Row 7: *knit 1 wrapping the yarn around the needle 2 times,
knit 1 wrapping the yarn around the needle 3 times, knit 1 wrapping the yarn
around the needle 4 times, knit 1 wrapping the yarn around the needle 3 times
and knit 1 wrapping the yarn around the needle 2 times. Knit 5*. Repeat from *
to * until there are 5 stitches left. Knit 1 wrapping the yarn around the
needle 2 times, knit 1 wrapping the yarn around the needle 3 times, knit 1
wrapping the yarn around the needle 4 times, knit 1 wrapping the yarn around
the needle 3 times and knit 1 wrapping the yarn around the needle 2 times.
Row 8: knit all stitches, dropping the extra wraps
from the needle.
Rows 9 and 10: knit all stitches.
How to knit seafoam stitch II | WE ARE KNITTERS - YouTube
From here, you’ll repeat rows 3 through 10. In the
sample, we separated the diamonds by 2 rows, but this is only a suggestion. You
can make any variation you like.
Now that you know how to knit seafoam stitch, you can combine them any way you like—make them
larger or smaller, or space them further apart between stitches or rows.
We want to see your projects in this fancy stitch on
social media using the hashtag #WeAreKnitters.
Crochet is full of surprises. Sometimes with a simple variation of the
basic stitches we can create combinations that make for incredibly beautiful
textures. That’s what happened with this textured diagonal stitch that we are
going to show you in this step-by-step tutorial: half double crochets and front
post crossed double crochets and… beautiful texture!
Front post crossed
double crochet: the front post crossed double crochet is worked the same as for double
crochet, but with two differences. First, instead of working into the next
stitch, you work into one stitch before, in other words, find the stitch before
the one you just worked (one stitch to the right and below). Once you find the
stitch, instead of inserting the hook into the top of the stitch, as usual,
insert the hook around the post (the body of the stitch) as follows: insert the
hook from front to back on the right side of the post, and bring it out on the
left side of the post from back to front, so that the post is in front of the
hook. Yarn over and pull up the yarn behind the post. Continue working double
crochet as usual. If you don’t understand now, don’t worry! This tutorial
includes a video J
stitches: to skip a stitch do not work into the stitch of the
The first thing we are going to do is make
a foundation chain with a multiple of 4 chains.
Row 1: Chain two and then
work half double crochet into each stitch.
Row 2: Repeat row 1.
Row 3: Chain 2, work 1 half
double crochet. Now *work 1 front post crossed double crochet, skip 1 stitch, y
work 3 half double crochets*. Repeat from * to * until there are 2 stitches
left. Work 1 front post
crossed double crochet, skip 1 stitch, work the last stitch in half double
Row 4: Repeat row 1.
Row 5: Chain 2, work 3
half double crochets. *Work 1 front post crossed double crochet, skip 1 stitch, work 3 half double
crochets*. Repeat from * to * until the end of the row.
Now repeat rows 3 to 6 to make your piece
as long as you want
Do you want to see how to do it
step-by-step? We made a video for you so you don’t get lost on any rows.
How to crochet front post diagonal stitch | WE ARE KNITTERS - YouTube
We hope you like this quick and easy stitch as much as we like teaching it to you. As always, we would love for you to share your projects with us on social media using the hashtag #weareknitters. Until next time!
I am going to
start with a foundation chain of 23 chains. For your project, chain as many
stitches as you need, keeping in mind that it should be a multiple of 3 + 2.
Row 1: chain 3, which will count as the first double crochet. Next work 3 double crochets starting in the fifth chain from your hook. *Chain 3 and skip 3 stitches. Now work 3 double crochets*. Repeat from * to * and finish the row with a double crochet.
Row 2: Chain 3 and work one double crochet into the first stitch. *Chain 3 and continue with 3 double crochets worked into the 3 stitches we skipped in the foundation chain, wrapping the chain space created in the first row*. Repeat from * to * until there is 1 stitch left. Finish the row with a double crochet.
Row 3: Chain 3, work a double crochet into the first stitch. *Work 3 double crochets into the 3 double crochets of the first row, wrapping the chain space in the second row. Next, chain 3, and skip the 3 stitches in the second row*. Repeat from * to * until there is 1 stitch left. Finish the row with a double crochet.
repeating rows 2 and 3 until you reach the desired length. The key is to make
sure that the chains line up with the double crochets of the previous row.
Grab your crochet hook and start practicing this new stitch. As usual, we want to see your projects tagged on our social networks using #WeAreKnitters.
good weather is here, we want to dust off those wicker baskets that accompany
us throughout the spring and summer and that are perfect for taking our knitting
projects wherever we go, no matter how big or small they may be. Do you want an
easy way to personalize yours while using up scraps from other projects? In
this tutorial, we’ll show you how to make a feather pendant with those little bits of cotton that you have left
step by step, we’ve used several colors of our Pima
this case, earth tones.
We will also use a comb or a brush (the more teeth,
the better), scissors, and masking tape (or something similar).
We’ll start by calculating the length of our pendant.
The total length will be the length of the handle to hang, plus the length of
the body of the pendant. Leave about 7 or 8 cm for the handle.
Cut a strand from the ball once you know the
length of your pendant. To work comfortably, we recommend holding the strand of
the body to the work surface with masking tape both above and below. That way
it will not move as we make the knots.
Now let’s calculate the width of the pendant.
We recommend that you add 2 or 3 cm to the length of the thread in case you
later want to shape the pendent when you finish it.
As you can see, you’re going to have to cut a
lot of strands to make the knots, so use a book to help. We’ve rolled the
cotton around it several times. This will save time and ensure that all your
strands are the same length.
When you finish winding the strands around
your book, remove the mini skein you have made and snip it at both ends.
Repeat this process with all the colors you
want to use.
tie the knots along the body of the pendent
The pendent is formed by a series of knots tied
along the central axis, made from that first thread that we cut after we calculated
There are two types of knots that we’ll be
making: right and left. To make it easier to see how each one is knotted, we
have done the step by step with strands of different colors on both sides of
the central axis. Then we will use threads of the same color on both sides to
form the feather.
Place two strands on both sides of the
central axis, with the ends facing out.
The thread on the left passes below the
center axis. Place the right thread over it.
Pass the ends of the left strand over the
loop that forms the right strand
Now pass the ends of the right strand below
the loop that forms the left strand.
Pull both ends of the strands and … you
have the first knot!
Place two strands on both sides of the
central axis, with the ends facing out.
The right strand passes below the central
axis. Place the left thread above it.
Pass the ends of the right strand over the
loop that forms the left strand.
Pass the ends of the left strand below the
loop that forms the right strand.
Stretch from both ends and … you have the
We’ll form the body of the feather by
combining these two knots, repeating the right and left knots together.
How to not
get lost and know which knot comes next
It’s very easy to lose track of which knot
comes next. Which was the last knot I made? And the one before? To avoid this, place
the strands that go under the central axis in pairs. When these are already placed,
you’ll only have to place the threads that go up and make the knots.
As you can see, it’s easy to build the body
of the pen. Another color? Simply change the color of the threads you are
What if I want to use a different color
before one that I have already knotted? Just slide the knots along the central
axis to knot the color you want at the point where you want it.
When you’re done, slide the knots back down
the center axis and you’re done.
Keep making knots until you get to the bottom
of the axis. Now we’re going to teach you how to give the final touches to your
Yes, yes, you read that correctly. Let’s comb
the pendent to separate the strands of cotton. The finer the teeth of your comb,
and the closer together they are, the easier this step will be. In the image
above, you can see the difference between the combed part (right) and the
un-combed part (left).
The pendent should be combed on both the
right and wrong sides to ensure that the strands are as separated as possible.
Always comb the center out, holding the pendent by the handle.
Now we just have to finish the bottom edge.
To do this, tie a knot and comb the remaining
shape the feather
This is the most feared moment: shaping the
pen by cutting the ends with scissors. If you are not sure about the shaping, the
simplest thing to do is to print a template, place it on top, and cut the
strands, following its form.
If you dare to do it without a template: cut
the ends in a U shape. Now we’ll make a first cut and then we’ll refine it
To make the cut symmetrical, fold the ends
that you’ve already cut on top of those that are not and follow the length of
After the first cut, refine it a little more
until you have the desired shape: sharpen the lower point a bit more and also trim
the top part a little bit. At this point, you can use the comb to help trim the
strands that are a little longer than the others.
And we have our feather pendent ready to use!
We hope that this step by step is useful and fun.
You’ll see that you can make one thousand and one color combinations and even
hang several from the same handle of your basket. We hope you’ll share it with
us on social media with the hashtag #weareknitters.
The edges of the fabric, when we’re talking
about crochet, are always for many a matter of frustration and improvement. Sometimes
the transition from one row to the other is too noticeable if made with chains
and we aren’t able to make it completely disguised. Especially if, for example,
they are the front pieces of open garments and … they are too noticeable. In
this post, we’ll teach you to make mock double crochet, which will solve these
dilemmas to give your projects totally perfect edges.
thing we have to do is make a chain to begin our work.
row is worked the same was it is normally, working the turning chains to
continue with the double crochet.
this, don’t work the turning chains, but instead, turn the work and begin the
mock double crochet.
How to work mock double crochet | WE ARE KNITTERS - YouTube
As you can
see in the video, the mock double crochet is very integrated into the rest of
the fabric. Remember that you must place on your index finger on the stitch, so
that during this first step, it doesn’t move, and the stitch is perfect.
of the work are left clean, and the turns are unnoticeable.
on, there are no funny edges in your crochet projects We hope that you like
this tutorial and that you share your projects in social media with the hashtag
see other people’s projects made of beautiful, complicated stitches, and you
wonder how they do it, while you’re stuck using the same old simple stitch you
learned a long time ago…. well, what are you waiting for?! You just need a
little patience and time to learn. We are going to show you how to knit some
beautiful lace cables to use on your next sweater, or to make a baby blanket
for one of your friends, to show off your knitting
skills with two needles.
Cast on a multiple of 15 stitches. For this
example we cast on 30 stitches so that you can see the design. You can increase
the number of stitches depending on the size of the project you want to make.
On odd rows, knit all stitches (including the
knit 2 together, and knit 3 together), and on even rows, purl all stitches.
Row 1. *Knit 1, yarn over, SKPO, knit 5,
knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 1*. Repeat
from * to * until the end of the row.
Row 2 (and remaining
even rows). Purl
Row 3. **Knit 2, yarn over, SKPO, knit 3,
*knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2*. Repeat from * to * one more time**.
Repeat from ** to ** until the end of the row.
Row 5. *knit 3, yarn over, SKPO, knit 1, knit 2 together, yarn
over, knit 2, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 3*. Repeat from * to * until the
end of the row.
Row 7. *Knit 4, yarn over, knit 3 together,
yarn over, knit 2, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 4*. Repeat from * to *
until the end of the row.
Row 9. *Knit 4, knit 2 together, yarn over,
knit 2, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 5*. Repeat from * to * until the end
of the row.
Row 11. *Knit 3, knit 2 together, yarn over,
knit 2, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 1, yarn over, SKPO, knit 3*. Repeat
from * to * until the end of the row.
Row 13. **Knit *2, knit 2 together, yarn
over*. Repeat from * to * one more time. Knit 3, yarn over, SKPO, knit 2 **.
Repeat from ** to ** until the end of the row.
Row 15. *Knit 1, knit 2 together, yarn over,
knit 2, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 1, yarn over, SKPO, knit 2, yarn over,
SKPO. Knit 1*. Repeat from * to * until the end of the row.
Repeat rows 1 to 16 as many times as needed.
As you can see, the pattern is easier than it looks; you just have to get the
hang of it. Now… show off your project using this new stitch and keep
practicing with us!
Don’t forget to share your creations with #WeAreKnitters on our social networks.
Any self-respecting crocheter, after finishing each project, is sure to
have a healthy stash of left over yarn. Today we suggest you gather up all of
your left over cotton yarn hidden in drawers, boxes and bags: we are going to
recycle it and show you how to make a practical basket that you can use to
decorate your home, to leave your keys, change, and other things when you get
home, so they are always handy.
We are going to make this design, but you can create your own design and
use up your leftover cotton. Now, let’s get started on this step-by-step
We are going to start our basket by making
a magic circle with the color mint.
Now work 6 single crochets into the magic
Round 1: increase 1 in each
stitch of the previous round (12 stitches in total).
Round 2: * work 1 single crochet and
increase 1*. Repeat from * to * 5 more times (18 stitches in total).
The underlined part in the previous step
is the distance between each increase, in the next round your have to work 2
single crochets, in the next 3, and so on, until the last round you work 9
single crochets between increase and increase.
Round 1: work the entire
round in single crochet. You will have a total of 66 stitches at the end of the
Repeat round 1, two more times.
Round 4: start the design on
the side of the basket: * work 5 single crochets in mint and 1 single crochet
in natural *. Repeat from * to * until the end of the round.
Round 5: work 5 single
crochets in mint and 2 in natural. Now work * 4 single crochets in mint and 2
in natural *. Repeat from * to * until there are 5 stitches left. Work 4 single
crochets in mint and 1 in natural.
Round 6: start working 1
single crochet in natural and 4 single crochets in mint. Now, * work 3 single
crochets in natural and 3 single crochets in mint*. Repeat from * to * until
the end of the row. Finish by working 3 singles crochets in mint and 1 single
crochet in natural.
Round 7: work 2 single
crochets in natural and 3 single crochets in mint. Continue working * 4 single
crochets in natural and 2 single crochets in mint *. Repeat from * to * until
there is 1 stitch left. To finish the round work 1 single crochet in natural.
Round 8: work 3 single
crochets in natural and 2 single crochets in mint. Now work * 5 single crochets
in natural and 1 single crochet in mint *. Repeat from * to * until there is 1
stitch left. Finish the round with 1 single crochet in natural.
Round 9: begin the round by
working 4 single crochets in natural and1 single crochet in mint. Continue the
rest of the round in natural.
Round 10: work the whole
round in single crochet with natural.
Repeat the previous row 12 more times.
Now we are going to make the handles for
the basket so that you can hang it up. To do so: *chain 40, skip 8 stitches and
work 25 more single crochet*. Repeat from * to * to make the second handle.
Work two more rounds in single crochet.
Using a tapestry needle, weave in any
extra threads so that your basket doesn’t have any loose ends.
That’s it! Your basket is ready! You can
use it anywhere and hang it where you are most likely to see it: a hanger or a
We hope you liked this step-by-step
pattern and that you share your catch-all basket on social media using the
good weather is arriving, we want to make fun combinations with our cotton yarn
in all its colors. Do you like knitting stripes? In today’s post, we’re going
to show you an easy way to knit them without leaving a thousand ends to weave
in with the color changes.
Cast on sas many stitches as you need and
work the first stripe in whatever color you like.
When you’re ready to change colors, you
should start with a right-side row.
Simply begin knitting with the strand from
the new skein, working one right side row then one wrong side row, leaving the
strands on hold. Now, we’ll show you what to do with it.
How to raise the threads when weaving in various colors with two needles | WE ARE KNITTERS - YouTube
The only thing you have to do is pass the strand
you’re not knitting above the one you are going to use to work the row. Just
like in the image above. Remember not pull it, so that the edge doesn’t shrink
and is uniform.
Once you’re ready to start knitting with the
next color, don’t tie the strands. Just take the strand of the color you need
and knit the right-side row.
This will weave the ends on the wrong side of
the work, going up along the edge.
Stripes are addictive, right? We hope this
tutorial is entertaining and useful, and that it will also help you with your
colorful and spring projects. We look forward to seeing you share your work on
social media using the hashtag #weareknitters
propose an easy way to use up leftover cotton yarn. We bring you an easy
pattern to personalize your garments.
to make a pocket in crochet to add to any basic t-shirt that you already have
at home. For this project we used a size 8 crochet hook and our Pima cotton
left over from other projects.
Start with a
foundation chain of 17 chains + 3 extra to count as the first double crochet.
Row 1: work
double crochet into each chain starting in the 16th chain from the knot.
Row 2: turn your work, chain 3, and skip the first stitch, work double crochet into each stitch of the previous row. You should have 17 stitches, counting the 3 stitches of the turning chain.
Repeat row 2
until your pocket measure the desired length. You can change colors to use up
your left over yarn and make it more fun and colorful.
To finish we
crocheted a row in single crochet and added a shell stitch border. You can see
how to do this on our blog post “4
ways to add crochet borders”.
To make the
shells, chain 1, and then work a single crochet into the next stitch. *Skip a
stitch, work 5 double crochets into the same stitch, skip a stitch, and end
with 1 single crochet*. Repeat from * to * until you finish the border.
If you are going to add a border I suggest you choose which one you are going to make before starting because it will determine how many stitches you need for your pocket. For this border, for example, you need to have a multiple of 4 stitches + 1.
The last step
is to sew the pocket to your t-shirt and then enjoy saying, “I made it myself”.
Don’t forget to share a picture with WAK on our social networks. We can’t wait
to see those pockets.
making our own knitwear, the sweaters and tops we have a special affection for,
over all the other clothes in our closets. Sometimes, knitting can be a bit
cumbersome, such as when we’re working increases to shape sleeves, or any
special shape, and we have to knit “1 stitch twice” and we ask
ourselves: how in the world do I do that? In this post, we’re here to save you
and show you how to knit a stitch twice in four different ways.
1. Knit into the same stitch twice: one normal and the
other through the back loop (crossed).
You can use this type of increase both for
knitting and purling. Use it when you have to increase between knit stitches.
To make this type of increase, knit the first stitch, then without dropping the
stitch from the left needle, knit the stitch again through the back loop, as you
would in Crossed stockinette stitch. Now drop the stitch from the left needle.
You will have made two stitches from the same stitch. See how in the following
How to work the same stitch twice I | WE ARE KNITTERS - YouTube
1. Purl into the same stitch twice: one normal and the
other through the back loop (crossed).
This type of stitch is usually used when
increasing between two purl stitches. Just like the last increase, you have to
work into the same stitch twice before pushing it from the needle. This time,
you will first purl as usual, then purl through the back loop. Hit play on the
video below to see how it’s done:
How to work the same stitch twice II | WE ARE KNITTERS - YouTube
3. Work the same stitch twice: knit 1 then purl 1.
This increase is used in stitches that
change stitches, like ribbing or seed stitch, or when you are going to knit,
but then need to purl. As in the previous cases, first knit the stitch as
usual, then without dropping the stitch from the left needle, purl the next
stitch, as you normally would. Let’s see how in the video:
How to work the same stitch twice III | WE ARE KNITTERS - YouTube
4. Work the same stitch twice: purl 1 then knit 1.
This type of increase is also usually used
with patterns that change stitch, as in the previous section, or when you have
to purl the next stitch and knit the following one. To make it, purl into the
same stitch as usual, then without dropping the stitch from the left needle,
knit into it as you normally would. You can see how easy it is in the following
How to work the same stitch twice IV | WE ARE KNITTERS - YouTube
knitting the same stitch twice doesn’t seem so complicated, right? We hope that
this tutorial is helpful to you and that you’ll share your knitting with us on
social media using the hashtag #WeAreKnitters. Until next time!