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Crimped petals add extra delicacy and detail to bold black and white quilling paper anemone flowers.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click on the links below and make a purchase I may receive a small compensation to help me finance this site and keep coming up with awesome tutorials and tips! There’s no cost to you and I only ever include links to companies and products that I trust and work with on a regular basis. 

There’s something about white quilling paper.

I never feel like I’m using a ton of it, but I’m always running out!

The last time I was in a quilling paper jam, my usual providers were sold out of white strips. That’s what I get for waiting until the last minute.

In a panic, I ordered a bunch of strips from Amazon that was from a brand that I didn’t know very well.

When it arrived, I was pleasantly surprised!

The paper is a nice weight, and it’s very bright white.

The only issue is that I’m used to US measurements so the 5 mm width is a tiny bit wider than my usual 1/8″.

Often that doesn’t really matter, but when I sat down to make the quilling paper anemone petals this week, I found the 5 mm strips a little too large.

Being resourceful, I cut them in half and they worked perfectly.

If you have 1/8″ or even 1/16″ white quilling paper strips on hand, they would work just fine for this project.

For reference, the strips I’m using are 20″ long.

To add a bit of interest and texture to the petals of my flower, I also ran the strips through a paper crimper.

Next, roll each strip into a coil, then pinch one end to make a teardrop.
For each quilling paper anemone, you’ll need 12 teardrops.
Now, make large flower petals by gluing 2 of the teardrops together.

They should look like a heart shape.

You will need to make 4 of these bigger petals.

While the petals are drying, start working on the centers of your anemone.

Roll a tight coil from a 17″ strip of 1/8″ black quilling paper.

Push the center out gently to make a slight dome and brush glue on the underside to set the shape.

Fringe another strip of the 5 mm white paper.

This time, leave the paper the original width.

You’ll want the fringe to be a little bit taller than the black dome.

You should tear off about 5″ of length, though.

I found the entire 20 inches to be a little bulky for the next step.

Wrap the fringed strip around the black center.
Fluff the fringe gently with a tool or your fingers.
If you look closely at a black and white anemone, you’ll see that they have black tips on the ends of the fringe.

You can recreate this look easily by lightly running a black marker of the edges.

Now its time to put your flower together!

Because I wanted these quilling paper anemone to look like they were blooming, I needed them to look like the petals were cupping around the center.

To do this, build your flower upside down.

Start by flipping your center over on your work board.

Add a dot of Tacky Glue to the 4 edges.

Place one of the single petals on each dot of glue so they are leaning off the center onto the work board.

After those petals set for a few minutes, you can add your next layer of petals.

Each of the larger, heart-shaped petals are going to need to go between the smaller petals.

Place a small dot of Tacky Glue about halfway down the middle of 2 small petals and add one of the big petals.

See the photo below for more info on the exact placement of this layer.

Repeat for all 4 heart-shaped petals.

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Roll a few big, bold, beautiful blooms! These quilling paper gerbera daisies are made with super-skinny quilling paper for a real “wow”!

This post contains affiliate links. If you click on the links below and make a purchase I may receive a small compensation to help me finance this site and keep coming up with awesome tutorials and tips! There’s no cost to you and I only ever include links to companies and products that I trust and work with on a regular basis. 

The process for making this tutorial has been a long one.

It began with a bunch of 1/16″ quilling paper packages that I have been holding onto since Christmas time.

I had grand plans of trying to create a quilled ranunculus flower, but the number of petals on each blossom completely overwhelmed me.

So, I was on the lookout to use these strips on another flower, then it hit me. Quilled gerbera daisies!

They still have a bunch of petals, but nowhere near as many as the ranunculus. And, the thin strips of paper would allow me to layer the petals, just like on the actual daisies.

Perfect!

All of my 1/16″ quilling sheets have come from Custom Quilling by Denise.

She offers a fairly large selection with quite a few colors, many of them perfect for quilling paper gerbera daisies!

To access her shop, look for her square logo on the side of this page. It will take you right to the site!

For this demo, I’m using Mauve, a dusty pink by Paplin.

First, roll each paper strip into a coil.

Once again, I’m used my savvy slotted tool. It’s a habit now and my go-to tool!

Carefully, remove the coil from the quilling tool, and let it unravel just a bit in your hands.

Try to only let the inside of the coil open up, like in the photo below.

This might take a few practice rolls, but once you get the hang of it, it goes quickly.

You’ll need to make 20 of these coils for each gerbera daisy.
Pinch each side of the coil to make a marquise shape.
Paint some all-purpose glue on the underside of each petal to keep the shape.
While your gerbera daisy petals are drying, you can make the centers.

Roll about 30 inches of 1/8″ quilling paper into a tight coil and glue the end to secure.

Push the center out to make a small dome and brush some glue to the underside.

Fringe another strip of 1/8″ paper with small scissors or a commercial fringer.

Glue one end to the dome and wrap the rest around.

Don’t forget to secure the end so the fringed strip doesn’t unravel.

It’s time to put all your work together!

To build your quilling paper gerbera daisies, place a small dot of glue on the end of 2 of your petals.

Place them opposite each other on your workspace covered in wax paper, and add your center on top.

I like Tacky Glue for this because of it’s speedy drying time.

Next, add 8 more petals by sliding each under the flower center after applying a tiny bit of glue to each.

If this is giving you trouble, you can always arrange 10 petals in a circle with a space in the middle (think like a doughnut shape), then place the center right on top.

It may be easier to fit all your petals in that way.

Now, add the other 10 petals on top as a second layer.

Try to keep the new petals alternating between the ones underneath for a natural look.

It might look a little messy now, but the glue will dry!

After the glue dries, remove you gerbera daisy from your wax paper and use as you like!

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Quilling paper blueberries can be a sweet celebration of warm weather, sunny skies, and new summer gardens.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click on the links below and make a purchase I may receive a small compensation to help me finance this site and keep coming up with awesome tutorials and tips! There’s no cost to you and I only ever include links to companies and products that I trust and work with on a regular basis. 

Quilled blueberries are an easy way to practice making round paper spheres.

This may seem simple enough, but it can require a little bit of patience.

First, gather your supplies.

I used 22″ dark blue quilling paper (3 strips per berry), quilling tool, small brush, scissors, tweezers, and glue.

If your paper strips are shorter, your berries might be a little smaller, or you can some extra length to your quilling paper by gluing 2 strips together. But the length I used isn’t a hard and fast rule for this project. It’s just the paper I had on hand and I liked the size of the blueberries when they were done.

I chose Tacky Glue for this project because it’s nice to have a quick hold when working in 3-D. Clear glue is another good option if you’re worried about glue marks on your dark paper.

Notice I also included the Savvy Slotted tool by Quilled Creations in this photo. I’ve been reaching for it a lot lately, and I’m really enjoying how quickly I can roll with it. (Read my review from last year if you’re interested in this fun tool!)

Next, start rolling your blueberry.

You’re going to make it in 2 equal parts. Simply roll one of the 22″ strips into a tight coil on your quilling tool. Then, repeat with a second strip.

Gently push the center of each coil out with your finger to make a small dome.

I wouldn’t recommend using a mold or any other tool for this. You’re really only looking for a very slight bump. It may not seem like much, but when the entire blueberry is put together, it will definitely be round!

Using a brush, apply a bit of glue to the underside of each domed coil and let dry. This will hold the shape.

I included some blueberries made from hand-cut card stock in the photos below as inspiration to those who were curious about working with that paper. It will work the same, it is just thicker paper!

Now it’s time to glue the two halves of your blueberry together.

Dot a bit of glue around the edge of one side, and set the other on top.

You can see how the quilling paper blueberries are almost round at this point, but they’re not quite right yet…

The berries need some more paper in the center where the two halves meet to bump up the middle a little bit.

To do this, attach another strip of dark blue quilling paper right on the seam, and wrap it a time or two around the center. Tear off any extra and glue the end to keep everything in place.

It might seem like a really small detail, but it makes a world of difference in making round quilling paper objects.

The last element of a quilling paper blueberry is the small spiky parts that are on the blossom end of the fruit.

To make these, cut tiny triangle shaped pieces of quilling paper. Dip in glue and apply to one end of the blueberry.

There are supposed to be 5 of these spikes in a star shape, but I took some artistic license and only used four. It is much easier to make four look even and to try and make a star, and you’ll still get the same effect.

I think they look a lot like the real thing!

I had my kids fooled for a minute!

Even though these quilling paper blueberries are 3-D, there are still plenty of uses for them.

I might add mine to a wreath for my front door.

How will you use your paper blueberries? Tell me all about your plans in the comments below!

The post Quilling Paper Blueberries appeared first on The Papery Craftery.

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If you’ve followed my site for any length of time, you might have heard me going on and on about my quilling tweezers. I don’t know how many times I’ve written “I don’t know how I could have done this without my favorite tool” or “This would have been so much harder if I didn’t have my quilling tweezers”. They truly are essential to the craft. But how do you know which ones to buy? Today, I’m going over the pros and cons of some of the most popular brands on the market. Here is my very honest quilling paper tweezers review!

This post contains affiliate links. If you click on the links below and make a purchase I may receive a small compensation to help me finance this site and keep coming up with awesome tutorials and tips! There’s no cost to you and I only ever include links to companies and products that I trust and work with on a regular basis. 

When you use tweezers for quilling, it’s almost like having an extra hand.

Tweezers allow you to reach into tiny places, pick up mini coils, and be more precise in your quilling.

The first pair of tweezers that I fell in love with is the fine-pointed purple set from Quilled Creations. I’ve raved about them many times before. You may have seen them in other tutorial photos!

Quilled Creations’ tweezers are lightweight and are about 5 inches long. They are very easy to squeeze and don’t require much effort.

These babies are sharp!

I have definitely accidentally poked myself in the leg a time or two when I’ve dropped them. But those thin ends really allow you to get into tight spaces without disrupting the coils.

The drawback to these is that the ends are starting to bend a bit. This may be from overuse or how I store them.

Another great option is from Quill On.

Quill On ( the makers of the Border Buddy) offers their quilling tweezers in a set of two. This combo includes a fine tip pair and a self-closing tool.

I love the fresh green color of these tweezers!

They’re both about the same size as the same length as the Quilled Creations pair. And, again, the fine tipped pair is very sharp. So far the tips of these seem to be holding up a little bit better.

Here’s a quilling tool tip –

If you keep your tools in a cup or jar like I do, the tips might get dull when they bang around in the bottom. Try placing a piece of sponge or a ball of paper towel in the cup first to make a cushion and help your sharp tools stay in their best shape!

The self-closing pair of quilling tweezers acts like a clamp. Use it to keep shapes together or even to offset the center of a coil. So helpful!

The last quilling paper tweezers that I’m reviewing is the bundle from Lake City Crafts.
Lake City Craft’s tweezers come in a group of four.

This includes a fine tip, an angled pair, self-closing tweezers, and also one with flat ends. I have had this set for almost a year, and I hate to admit I don’t know what the flat ended pair is used for.

I have to say, these are my least favorite tweezers. While I love the rainbow stripes, the metal is very strong and needs a bit more muscle to squeeze than my other tools. The thicker metal tips also mean that the ends sometimes get caught up in my coils and ruins the centers. I also don’t think they close tight enough which makes picking up paper almost impossible.

Although I don’t love them, they’ve gotten good reviews. Everyone has different preferences. Lake City also offers a fine tip pair of quilling tweezers with a curve on the end. I haven’t tried these but the ends so look pretty thin, so they might be something to think about.

There are more quilling paper tweezers available, but these are from the most popular quilling tool companies.

No matter which pair you choose, quilling paper tweezers really are one of the most useful tools you can have when practicing your craft.

If you haven’t added one to your tool kit yet, I promise you won’t regret picking one up!

The post Quilling Paper Tweezers Review appeared first on The Papery Craftery.

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I think it’s just about official. Spring has come to the East Coast!
The snow has melted, the birds are singing, and my son’s allergies are going haywire.
And, those first flowers of spring, the crocus, are popping up all over the place.
So that’s what I’m making today – a quilling paper crocus!

This post contains affiliate links. If you click on the links below and make a purchase I may receive a small compensation to help me finance this site and keep coming up with awesome tutorials and tips! There’s no cost to you and I only ever include links to companies and products that I trust and work with on a regular basis. 

I’m excited to be sharing this tutorial because it showcases a technique that I’ve been waiting to show until the perfect moment.

But first, the petals!

I was looking for these crocus to be as dainty as they are coming right out of the ground, so I’m using thin 1/16” white quilling paper strips for the petals.

1/8″ strips will work, too, but will make a larger flower. Look back at the succulents I created with those for an idea of what that would end up like.

Glue two 17″ strips end to end to make a long strip.
Roll the long strip around the quilling tool of your choice.
Without gluing the end of the strip, remove the coil from your quilling tool.

Hold the coil carefully and let it unravel a tiny bit from the middle. This might take some practice, but you can always reroll your coil if you want to.

That open space in the center of your coil allows it to be squeezed into an oval shape.

Bear in mind that the super-thin paper doesn’t have much width at all, so make sure you’re holding the front and back with one hand loosely while guiding the opening with the other. Otherwise, the middle might just pop out. I also don’t have much faith for the circle guides with this size paper. The coils would be too hard to remove because they are so thin.

When your oval is the shape of a flower petal, glue the end of the paper strip to keep it in place.

You’ll need 6 petals for each flower.

While pinching, add some glue only on the bottom of the petal to keep it together.
It’s really important that the glue is only applied to the bottom third of each petal because the rest needs to be clear for something I’ve been waiting to show for a while – adding watercolors to quilling!

I’m even using my kids’ cheapo watercolor paints, they’ll work perfectly for this one.

Watercolor paint doesn’t have to be intimidating; its just a matter of knowing a little technique.

First, brush a little plain water on the outside edge and around the top of the petal.

In order to have that flowing, blended look to your paint, its best to brush it on a wet surface.

Next, add the purple watercolor paint.

You’ll want to start with just a bit. You can always build it up with more paint after.

As you can see below, my first pass with the paint was really faint!

The glue on the bottom of the petals acts as a resist, so no paint will stick to that part of the paper.

After painting both sides of the petal, put aside to dry.
When the paint has dried, it’s time to start building your quilling paper crocus!

First, stick 3 petals together on a piece of wax paper.

Let sit for a few moments, then place in some sort of mold so the petals dry in a cup shape.

I like to use the underside of my dome mold. Push gently on the center so the petals point up and dry fully.

Once those first petals have set, add the other 3 on the outside so it looks like the crocus is opening.
While the flower is drying, start making the orange stamen for the center.

I used short strips of 1/16″ melon paper to match the size of the rest of the crocus.

Roll each strip a couple turns on your quilling tool, glue the coil to the rest of the strip, and pinch to flatten.

Each flower has 6 stamen of..

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A few weeks ago, I was contacted by the people behind the company, Stencil Revolution, to see if wanted to try for their stencils for some craft projects. After scrolling around their site for a minute, I totally impressed with their selection. They have so many choices! But, what really caught my eye was the small word stencils. I fell in love with the “Be Kind” design, and after it arrived at my door, I quickly began playing to figure out how to use a stencil with quilling paper Come to find out stencils and quilling work great together, and this week, I’m sharing how!

This post contains affiliate links. If you click on the links below and make a purchase I may receive a small compensation to help me finance this site and keep coming up with awesome tutorials and tips! There’s no cost to you and I only ever include links to companies and products that I trust and work with on a regular basis. 

My thought was that I would use the stencil to make perfect quilled letters in way less time.

I’ve seen some quillers using thier Circut or Sileuette machines to make fancy script outlines to add quilling paper too. But those machines are really expensive, and there is quite a learning curve to them.

I had a feeling I could get similar results with the products from Stencil Revolution.

The first step was to lay stencil down on paper and trace the outside.

I used tracing paper for this, because that was what I had in arms reach. Next time, I would use regular drawing paper, so I could see the tracing a bit more clearer.

Then, I added wax paper over top and pinned both to my cork work board. After the tracing was done, it was time to get creative!

I started adding quilling paper, by lining up paper on the edges of each letter and trimming it to fit.

I chose to use 1/4″ paper because I wanted a little height, and a bit more weight to the paper.

I definitely had to use some pins to keep everything in place.

Also, maybe dip the ends of your paper in glue with tweezers, since some of the strips will be really tiny.

When the outlines were finished, I filled in the letters with swirls and lines.

I also added a teeny red heart to replace the dot in the “i”.

I knew I wanted to make a small plaque with my quilled words, so I had to find the base.

To keep my project lightweight, I used a thin wooden plank, and painted it dark gray.

I really wanted the “be kind” phrase to pop on the gray paint, so I again used the stencil to add the words in white paint first.

The was some touch up needed to some of the gray once I took the stencil away.

I should have picked up a stencil brush before I did this part so I would have had less bleeding of the white under the stencil.

When I was happy with the painted script, I was ready to glue the quilled letters right on top.

I peeled the quilled letters from the waxed paper and trimmed any excess dried glue off the bottom and edges.

Again, dipping the quilling into glue seemed to be the best plan.

Be sure to use just a small amount of glue, and brush away any extra.

You can see from the side that this was not a perfect project.

After adding all the quilling, I still had some touch-ups to make with paint.

I’m pretty happy with the look straight on, though. Especially for a first try.

The sweet little heart make me smile!

I learned a lot from this project about working with stencils.

On my next attempt, I think I would use paint to stencil the words on the paper before I started quilling.

I found that the pencil tracing was all around a little smaller than the painted stencil, which made it so I had to do many touch-ups.

But I love the idea of using stencils with quilling, because the possibilities are endless, especially if you’re looking to recreate the same design over and over for a business.

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This week’s project is a mix between origami and quilling. Whether used alone or in with other types of quilling, these tiny flowers can add a serious “wow”! Let’s make some quilling paper rosettes!

This post contains affiliate links. If you click on the links below and make a purchase I may receive a small compensation to help me finance this site and keep coming up with awesome tutorials and tips! There’s no cost to you and I only ever include links to companies and products that I trust and work with on a regular basis. 




Mini paper rosettes start off much like any other quilling project.

Choose the paper color and size that you would like. I wouldn’t use any strip thinner than 1/8″, due to the fragile nature of the really tiny paper.

Insert the strip into the end of a slotted quilling tool.

I like to start a small way down the strip, instead of right at the end. This will add an additional swirl to the inside of your flower.

Roll the strip on the tool a couple of full times.

Now, its time for some origami magic!

Keeping the strip on the slotted tool, fold the quilling paper strip backward and at an angle.

Turn the slotted tool once more, and fold again in the same manner.

Continue turning and folding a few more times.

These folds are what will represent the petals of the small roses.

As you add petals, they will naturally start pulling away from the center of the flower.

The quilling paper rosette may start to be slightly difficult to handle on the tool as it gets bigger.

After some practice, I found it easier to take the rosette off my slotted tool, and continue to add folds by hand, while holding the flower upside-down.

Once your rosette is as large as you’d like, tear off any excess paper that you don’t need.

Glue the end of the paper to the bottom of the flower.

If your flower begins to pop up or if the layers don’t sit as close as you would like, you can always add a small touch of glue between the petals.




I’ve used these tiny quilling paper rosettes in the past to add extra elements to custom monograms or cards.

For a new project, I decided to cover some Easter eggs with rosettes.

The first step is to cover paper mache eggs with some white craft paint.

I wanted the eggs to look a little like blooming rose bushes when they were done, so I needed to add some green.

Since I wanted the rosettes to sit a little taller than the underlying green, so I used 1/16″ or super thin quilling paper strips to make the tight coils and teardrops.

I also included some flat strips between the quilled shapes, because there was a slight gap and I didn’t want to see any white coming through.

I didn’t realize how many glue bits were left over when I took these photos! Whoops!

Then, make about 17 billion rosettes.

Obviously, I’m joking, but it took quite a large number of flowers to cover the eggs.

All my time folding these flowers reminded me of making the hydrangea topiary tutorial I made a few months ago.

A lot of work, but worth the time!

To make these eggs look a little more dynamic, I decided to use multiple shades of the same colors on each.

Starting at the bottom, I glued the darkest shade of the purple and pink roses around and between the green leaves.

Then, I switched to the lighter tones as I made my way to the top of the eggs.

I think the ombré colors make them look a little fancier! 

They’re like blooming rose bushes!

These Easter eggs are just some inspiration.

I’m sure you could come up with many uses for these quilling paper rosettes.

Maybe you’ve used them before in a quilling project.

Share your ideas in..

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Its been a little while since I’ve been able to do this, but I’m sharing one of my favorite types of posts today. It’s quilling tool review time! This week’s product that has been on my radar for a few months. But, because I’ve been cranking out the Christmas and Valentine’s posts, I haven’t been able to play with it. Now that I’ve gotten some of those tutorials out of my head, I have some time to experiment and review a quilling paper husking board.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click on the links below and make a purchase I may receive a small compensation to help me finance this site and keep coming up with awesome tutorials and tips! There’s no cost to you and I only ever include links to companies and products that I trust and work with on a regular basis. 

The husking board I bought was ordered online and is from the brand Juya.

It is available in either blue or pink. I don’t think I was given a choice, and I ended up with the blue version.

They call it a “quilling knitting board”, which is a new phrase to me. I tried to find some other research about this term, but I couldn’t find any other instance of quilling and “knitting” going together.

This quilling paper husking board is a thin, plastic rectangle, measuring about 6 inches long by 3 inches wide.

It’s covered in small holes. The top section is an arch pattern; the bottom is straight lines.

There is also a small drawer to the side, that holds 32 sticks to use in the holes along with your quilling paper.

I did like the little drawer, but I found that it does get stuck somewhat when I would try to push it back in.

Most of the pins are solid stainless steel, but 2 are copper and have slots running down them.

These are the ones that are meant to be for the starting point. Just like a slotted quilling tool, the paper gets placed in the slit, and then wraps around the post a bit.

I have to say, I had some trouble with this part.

I found it really difficult to keep the paper in the slot while the pin was in the board. Instead, I had to wrap it in my hands first, then place the pin in the hole I needed it to be in.

It’s not the easiest way to do things, but it seems to work.

If you need a refresher on how to do it, check out this post on the husking technique.

You use the husking board in the same way that you would use straight pins and a cork board.

First, decide on the design you would like to create by placing the pins in the corresponding holes.

Then, starting with the slotted pin, wrap your quilling paper strip over and around the pins.

With most designs, you’ll begin wrapping your quilling paper around the pins closest to the slotted one and work your way out.

When you’re done, tear off any excess paper, fold or squeeze your design if needed, and glue the end to keep everything together.

I used tweezers to remove my flower petals from the board. I did find them really easy to remove from the board, because there is no round head, like with regular straight pins.

To really get a feel for how this husking board could work, I recreated the poppy flowers that I made in that first husking tutorial.

Even though I had to estimate where to put the pins, the finished flower looks pretty similar to the original version where I followed the drawn template.

Another interesting feature of this husking board is the straight channels on the bottom half.

There are 4 vertical grooves and 22 horizontal ones. Without any real direction, I wasn’t 100% sure what to create with this section, but I attached a few strips together, using the channels to keep them in place.

I did have to use my needle tool to help the strips on out again, but once I did I was able to recreate one of the examples on the back of the box.

The grid is perfect for reproducing the same exact shape over and over again.

All in all, I think this husking board would be helpful for those crafters who are making loads of similar shapes, like a scene with a large number of flowers, for example.

I did find it a little difficult to picture where to put the pins to get the finished shape I was looking for. When using pins and a corkboard for husking, I would draw an outline first, then put the pins on top of that. I think this might be a little easier for how my mind works. Maybe I just need to practice on with the husking board a bit more.

Another con is the size of the pins.

They are very short, compared to my straight pins. They’re really not that much longer than my quilling paper strips!

It takes some practice to figure out how to maneuver around them because they’re so tiny!

Bear in mind, this is only my personal experience.  This husking board has gotten very good reviews from other quillers.

For under $10, this might be a worthwhile tool to have in your quilling toolkit!


Have you tried a husking board? Do you prefer it over using your own pins and a cork board?

I’d love to hear your experiences in the comments below!



 

The post Quilling Paper Husking Board Review appeared first on The Papery Craftery.

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Last week, I wrote about how I had two great ideas for Valentine’s Day quilling tutorials. I started with the fringed heart – on the simpler side, but with a new technique. This week’s project is a bit more time consuming, but a real wow. We’re making quilling paper lace hearts!

This post contains affiliate links. If you click on the links below and make a purchase I may receive a small compensation to help me finance this site and keep coming up with awesome tutorials and tips! There’s no cost to you and I only ever include links to companies and products that I trust and work with on a regular basis. <




These paper hearts are based on the idea of detailed lace. There any number of ways you could do this since there are millions of lace patterns to inspire your quilling.

My version has a lot of steps, but I love the finished result.

First, print your template. I’m using the exact same heart that I used for last year’s Flowers and Vines heart.

I used a ruler to make a line every 1/2″ on my heart, so the lace details would be spaced equally.

Then, cover your template with wax paper and pin to a workboard.

Now you’re ready to build your quilling paper lace heart.

Most of this heart will need to be made with double-thickness quilling paper. If you’re using standard quilling paper, fold your strips in half, add a very thin line of glue down one side and press both sides together, making sure the entire strip is glued tight with no air bubbles. For photo examples of this technique, visit this quilled mitten tutorial.

For this example, you’ll need a few double-thick strips; I think I had to make about six or so from extra long 24″ quilling paper strips. There will be more strips needed later on, so maybe set aside somewhere between 15 to 20 strips per lace heart, depending on how long your strips are.

Once your strips have dried, start the outline of the heart, using pins as needed.

I would recommend outlining one side of the heart shape, then the other.

Now, its time to put those measurement lines to work!

Starting at the top of the heart, glue one end of a double-thick strip to the outline. Be careful to line the end up right with one of the 1/2″ measurement lines.

Let the glue dry for a bit, then loop the strip so it touches the next measurement line.

Apply a dot of glue to keep this spot in place. I chose to use a few pins to keep the loop in shape as I went.

Continue these loops all the way around the heart outline.

After the glue for these loops has dried, its time to move on to the next layer of lace details.

In the same way that the small loops were made, use double-thick strips to make larger loops.

Starting at the bottom of the template, glue a strip in a way that will cover 2 small loops at a time.

I think this heart is really starting to look pretty!

Notice that the larger loops stop at the top of the heart. This isn’t a problem and will be blended into the final design.

Next, add some line details in the big loops.

I chose to place one strip right in the center…

…then two more on either side.

Try using tweezers, and dipping the ends of these small bits into glue to get them into these tight spaces.




The last elements of these quilling paper lace hearts are the small coils on the outside edges.

To make these, roll quilling paper strips that are 2″ long into a tight circle.  Attach one to the middle of each large loop.

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I can’t believe I’ve been creating Valentine’s Day quilling tutorials for this site for the last 4 years. And for some reason, I never run out of heart inspiration. In fact, this year, I’ll be sharing 2 different crafts! Up first, fringed paper Valentine’s Day hearts, that we’re going to turn into a garden of flowers!
This post contains affiliate links. If you click on the links below and make a purchase I may receive a small compensation to help me finance this site and keep coming up with awesome tutorials and tips! There’s no cost to you and I only ever include links to companies and products that I trust and work with on a regular basis. 




This project is perfect for beginner quillers who are looking for a way to add some texture to their craft.

The first step, as usual, is to choose your quilling paper strips. I’m using deep rose and pale pink for my fringed hearts. But I’ll need a couple of strips of dark red when I make my Valentine’s Day card later on.

You’ll also need some craft glue in a needle nosed bottle, a slotted quilling tool and small scissors.

You’re going to be making the fringed hearts out of a triple-layer of quilling strips.

I used this same technique when making the centers of the coneflowers last autumn. I found that layering the strips keeps the fringe separated and defined, rather than just a big mess.

To start, apply a very thin line of glue along the side edge of a strip of rose paper.

Next, line the pale pink up so it is slightly overlapping the rose and let dry. This may be difficult on long quilling paper strips at first, so I would recommend practicing on shorter strips. Or try only applying a small line of glue to attach a little bit of the pink at a time, instead of all at once. I find this helps the pale pink stay straight.

When you’re looking at the other side of the paper you should see an even line of pink all the way down.

When your pink strip has set, glue a second strip of rose-colored paper right on top of the first.

The pale pink should now be sandwiched between 2 strips of rose.

Use a small set of scissors to fringe the entire length.  Take care to only make very small snips, not cut all the way through.

It may be helpful to use a binder clip as a guide. There is a photo of this in the coneflower post, too.

You can also use fringing scissors if you have them.

Once the entire strip is fringed, roll loosely with a slotted quilling tool.

Let your coil unravel just a bit, so it’s not completely compact.

Glue the end.

Repeat the above steps to make another roll of the same size.

Be sure to use the exact same length strips so the coils end up being the same!

Pinch each coil into a teardrop.

Glue the teardrops together to complete your heart.

I would recommend using pins here to keep your heart together, so you don’t have to hold it with your hands as it dries.

You could make fringed paper hearts in different sizes.

I made one from 18″ strips and 2 others from 10″ strips.




I decided to use these hearts as a field of flowers on a Valentine’s Day card.

To add some variety to your card, create a couple “flower buds” to go in your garden.

This time, use strips..

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