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Last weekend I attended a trade show in Ohio where all the newest varieties of plants are showcased. I of course, am on the look out for new houseplants and I found some that I want to show you. Here are some from a previous year. The crotons (Codiaem variegatum) I saw were amazing!  I know that crotons can be tough houseplants. Their amazing colors disappear inside unless you have an extremely bright spot, such as a south or west window and they also should not be allowed to dry out for any length of time or leaves will drop and spider mites may move in. If you can keep the humidity high and the light up, that foliage can NOT be beat. Begonias are equally beautiful. They may not have the bright colors of crotons, but they have gorgeous leaves.

New Thai Dye Crotons

The Foremost Co. introduced these crotons and are called the Thai Dye series. Many crotons have been hybridized in Thailand and these are obviously coming from there, as well. With the colors and patterns on the leaves, “Thai Dye” is a perfect name for this new line of crotons.

New croton varieties

“To the Max’ Thai Dye Croton

Look how large these leaves are on ‘To the Max’

‘Gnarly’ Croton in Thai Dye series

The one below was my favorite! Look at those leaves!

‘Tubular’ Croton in Thai Dye series

‘Tubular’ croton

Leaf of ‘Tubular’ croton

‘Twisted’ croton

‘Twited’ croton

‘Twisted’ croton

New beautiful begonias

Begonias are a hot item right now. The foliage is amazing and as long as you give them a medium to bright light and treat them like succulents, they should thrive. There stems hold water, so they can dry down a bit before watering, like true succulents, so do not over water them. Look at these new hybrids! The first four are from Greenfuse and called the Bewitched series and the last two are from Terra Nova and are called the Silver series.

‘Wintergreen’ Bewitched series begonia

Bewitched ‘White’ begonia

Bewitched ‘Red Black’

Bewitched ‘Pink’

Terra Nova introduced these two begonias below and the foliage is striking.

Begonia Silver ‘Treasure’

Silver ‘Treasure’

Silver ‘Lace’

There are more exciting new plants, including some aglaonemas and a diffenbachia that I will show you later. It is exciting to see new houseplants being created and brought to market. The problem is wanting one of each!

The post Exciting New Begonias and Crotons….Wow! appeared first on The Houseplant Guru.

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I recently (yesterday) attended a horticultural trade show in Columbus. Many companies were there and I love the plant booths that have cuttings. It is amazing that all those tiny plants are doing well without being in soil. They are shipped to the growers in this form, who plant them up, and from there they go to garden centers where we can then buy them. I recently wrote about growing my hoya from a cutting to the flowering stage.

In the last few years the industy has been offering the sweetheart hoya as a single leaf in a small pot, most often seen near Valentine’s Day, and it is adorable. Many people are drawn to the heart shape and buy them for their sweethearts. But though it is cute, many people are disappointed because it never becomes the vine it is meant to be.  I’ve been asked, “Why is my hoya not growing?”

There is a simple answer.

Hoya plants will put out roots from a single leaf as you can see in the picture below.

Two Hoya kerrii leaves with roots.

The problem is, there is no stem attached to the leaf. It needs a piece of the stem attached or it will never vine. In the picture below, you will see a piece of the plant that has a stem attached and so will continue to grow and become a large vine.

This is a cutting that includes the stem

It is your choice.

So if you like that heart shape and don’t care about it becoming a vine (maybe you don’t have room, anyway) then go ahead and propagate a single leaf. If, on the other hand you prefer a vining plant, make sure your cutting has a small piece of stem attached when you propagate it.

Have you propagated a hoya? Did it vine? Let me know in the comments.

I had so much fun at the show and saw lots of new plants and interesting things. I will make a blog post about it later in the week. Below is a Pinterest ready reminder for you to pin.

The post Why is My Hoya Not Growing? appeared first on The Houseplant Guru.

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Recently I went to a friend’s office for some computer help. When I walked into her office and saw the Ficus benjamina in the corner, I was astounded! Why? Because there are no windows in her office and the Ficus benjamina or weeping fig is a high light plant. Granted, it isn’t the fullest, healthiest plant I’ve ever seen, but it looks amazing for living in an office without windows.

Here is the Ficus benjamina in the corner of the office

How is this plant surviving?

So how can this high light plant survive in this situation? It has been there for over 5 years and hasn’t really changed too much. The flourescent lights are on 5 days a week for approximately 10 hours a day, yet the plant itself is quite far from the light. So why is it doing okay? Because it hasn’t been moved around (ficus hate to be moved) and has become accustomed to the light it is receiving.

The ficus is not directly under the light

This plant is not right under the light but not too far away, either. You can see the plant is thin and by that I mean there aren’t a lot of leaves. It isn’t “thick” and full of leaves. Why?

A plant will only keep the leaves it can support with the light it is receiving.

What does that mean? Have you ever brought a fern into the house because you couldn’t throw it away at the end of summer because it was so beautiful? It immediately drops almost every leaf, making a mess on your floor. Usually it gets thrown back out the door. When a plant comes from high light to low light, it is going to drop leaves or react in some way. Light is the food for your plant. If it isn’t receiving enough “food”, it will decline over a period of time.

Acclimate your plant

The only way to make that loss less extensive, is to acclimate your plant first. If the  fern had been placed in lower light for a couple of weeks outside before moving it inside, it may have adjusted better. Most houseplants you buy have been grow in tropical areas in fields with high light. Before they are shipped to retailers where you purchase them, they have been acclimated by being placed under shade cloths. This helps them become accustomed to lower light situations so when they hit the garden center and then your home, the plant won’t lose as many leaves or react quite as badly. I was amazed to see that her ficus even had new growth. Plants that aren’t receiving the optimal light will not grow in leaps and bounds or even much at all.  This plant is not being up-potted regularly, because it doesn’t need it. It will probably never become a huge tree, just because it really is maintaining, not growing a ton.

The plant even has new growth in this light level.

How can you help your plant adjust?

Even though the plants have been acclimated in their growing situation, they are still coming from a garden center that most likely has more light than your house. So, if you are placing it in a low light area, maybe put it in a brighter place for a bit if you can, gradually moving it towards its finall low light place where you want it to live. That way it can adapt slowly to the light it will be receiving.

The point is, this plant is doing well because it has become accustomed to the light level it is receiving and has learned to live in that environment. If it were in highter light its leaves would not be so sparse on the lower part of the plant. Unfortunately with the light only coming from above, the highest leaves get the most light and that is why the leaves are thickest at the top of the tree. They shade the lower part of the plant, it receives less light and cannot support alot of leaves.

Plants can adapt to their environment. That is not to say that if a plant is in too low a light, it may slowly decline and die. It has to have enough light to photosynthesize and support itself, even if it isn’t growing too much.  This plant is doing well in its situation but would look fuller and healthier with more light. I think it is doing great for the area it is in and I would rather have a living plant instead of a faux plant anyday. How about you?

The post Help Your Houseplant Adapt To The Light It Is Receiving appeared first on The Houseplant Guru.

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Have you grown a fittonia, also known as the nerve plant, mosaic plant, or net plant? I have, and can admit to you that I have killed my share. Fittonia care is easy, as long as you remember the water and to make high humidity a priority.

I have found that the large leafed, ‘Pink Wave’ shown below seems to be a little less fussy. It has thicker leaves than the smaller, thinner-leafed ground cover fittonias.

Love the veining you can see when the sun shines through the leaves.

Love the pink plant in the yellow pot

I found the perfect place for it!

It’s about the water.

The key, in my opinion, is the watering practices when caring for your fittonia. This plant does not want to dry out completely AT ALL. Yet, it doesn’t want to be too wet, either….. So there is where the problem comes in. Is it too wet or too dry? I try not to let my plant dry out completely. It has wilted before and after watering it well, it does come back. But, it would be better if you did NOT let that happen. Keep the plant just barely moist at all times. Letting a plant wilt so you know it is dry is not the way to monitor your plants water needs. (Many people do that with peace lilies, too.) It may work a few times, but there willl be consequences. Your plant will probably react by developing yellow or crispy leaves or may just give up and die.

Two colors of fittonia used as a ground cover in the Belle Isle Conservatory

Humidity is key

Humidity is also a key factor in keeping fittonias happy. Many of the smaller types are perfect for a terrarium where the humidity is extremely high. As long the humidity can be kept high, it should do fine out of a terrarium. A pebble tray works very well. If you have enough light in a bathroom or kitchen, that would be ideal.

Fittonia

No bright light please

When it comes to light preference, the fittonia would like to have a nice bright light, but never direct sun. If it were to be placed in too much sun, it would burn or at the least, develop crispy edges. Mine is in an east window and doing great.

Keep It Trimmed

If your fittonia starts to get leggy, as they often do, trim it back to keep it full and use the cuttings to make more plants or put them back in the pot to keep it full and looking good.

The extra care that this plant requires is well worth it. Look at that foliage! The veins and color are amazing. Who needs flowers?

To save this, use the pin below.

The post Fittonia Care #TuesdayTidbits appeared first on The Houseplant Guru.

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You’ve probably heard about the cast iron plant, also known as the Aspidistra elatior. Why the name cast iron? Because it is known to be a plant that can live through anything- neglect, drought, and dim light. It has been surviving in dark corners since its humble beginnings in the parlours of the Victorians. Of course it was here before then, but it came into its own by surviving those dark, usually smoky parlours. But this plant has come a long way since then. The best part is how easy they are to take care of.

Aspidistra “Milky Way’ in my “parlour”

Aspidistra Care

Whereas these plants have been delegated to the darkest corners and SURVIVED, it would be better if you could give it a good bright light. Mine was near (within 4 feet) of an east window and doing fabulously as you can see above. I wanted a plant in the corner of my dining room and so put my aspidistra there. It was near a west window, but it was in the corner and light wasn’t really reaching it at all. Unfortunately, it started to deteriorate and so I moved it back into better light, hoping it would recover. It has started to do a bit better. So survive it did, but THRIVE, it did not. There is a difference between surviving and thriving. Of course, mine isn’t the plain green cast iron plant, and so needed more light as a variegated plant. I should have known better.

Water Carefully

When watering any plant in a lower light situation, still water it until water runs out the bottom, but let it dry down quite a bit before watering again. A plant in low light uses less water than one in brighter light.

The aspidistra below is one I bought this spring from Sprout Home Chicago. I saw it and knew it had to come home with me. I placed it quite close to my east window as it has hardly any green to photosynthesize with. East is the perfect light as it won’t burn the white foliage. Variegated plants need a good bright light to stay variegated, but not too much light, as it could burn the leaves.

My new vareigated aspidistra

Aspidistra fame

My friend recently wrote about these plants in her weekly column in the Detroit News and mentioned a song about aspidistras. I had never heard it. Listen to The Biggest Aspidistra in the World by Gracie Fields here. It is a cute song.

Last year I read all the Harry Potter books. They were amazing! Did you know there is an aspidistra mentioned in one of the books? There is! In The Deathly Hallows in chapter 5, Hagrid “knocks over two delicate tables and an aspidistra” to hug Harry in the Tonk’s house. Of course I had to mark it for a time such as this. I always find the houseplants!

So, if you can find one of these amazing plants locally, buy one. I will warn you that they can be a bit pricey, as they grow quite slowly, but well worth it in my opinion. If you can’t find one or want a more unusual one, order one from Plants Delights Nursery, because they have many (I counted 18) to choose from. Down south of course, they use them as ground covers. Here in the north, they are houseplants.

The ‘Snow Cap’ aspidistra below is being used in the landscape in the Texas Botanical Garden. I would like to have one of these in the house. I may have to place an order with Plants Delight. Do you have an aspidistra?

‘Snow Cap’ Aspidistra in a Texas landscape

Use the picture below for your houseplant Pinterest board if you would like.

The post Aspidistra Care #TuesdayTidbits appeared first on The Houseplant Guru.

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Have you looked at your tillandsia and wondered….why is my tillandisa dying? Often it may be from over- or under-watering or it may not have enough sun, etc. We will cover those aspects later. Today I want to talk to you about the the fact that after your plant blooms, it is going to die.

Your reaction-What? I actually didn’t kill it, got it to flower, and now you tell me it is going to die?!

It is going to be alright.

Yes…..but the amazing thing about nature is that, as with all plants, they make sure their  “line” will continue on.

A new baby (pup) coming from the mother plant

Making new babies or pups

The plant will take a long time to die. While it is slowly expiring, it is giving life and nutrition to the new pup (baby tillandsia) that is growing. As you can see above, this tillandsia that bloomed some time ago, has given rise to a new baby. When this plant is about 1/3 the size of its mother, you can remove it to have one plant, but if you leave it, it will eventually become a conglomeration of plants.

It is quite obvious that the middle plant is dying

The picture above is a plant I purchased and after it bloomed, it created the two on either side of it. As you can see the middle one is not looking too good, but the two on either side are starting to turn red, so I think they will be blooming soon. They then will send out babies as well and eventually the first one will be removed as it becomes brown and dies.

The back side of the picture above showing the two plants originating from the mom plant and roots too.

Making roots

You can see in the picture above that the mother plant has also made roots.

I thought they didn’t have roots…? They are “air” plants, right? While the roots can actually absorb water and nutrients, their main job is to anchor the plant to a tree, wire, or branch in its natural habitat.

The open space to the left is where a plant used to be

I bought the plant above as a cluster already. It keeps flowering and making new pups. I didn’t take a picture, but last week I removed what was left of a dead plant and you can see the hole where it was.

The dying flower. Notice the hole where another plant used to be

One of the tillandsia is flowering

Becoming a cluster of plants

The picture below is a cluster of plants, but I bought it as a single plant. After having it a couple of years, hanging it in a south window, flowering more than once, it has become a cluster of plants. You can tell which plant has flowered and is now “passing away” slowly. There are so many plants to cover it up and I am so excited that I actually grew this from one plant!

Plenty of pups taking over

This is the dying mother plant

Below is a plant that I was gifted from my aunt a few years ago and I really need to cut the dying mother plant off, but my sentimentality kicked in and I don’t want to cut off the plant she gave me yet.

I could cut the plant on the left off at this point

Another view and you can see it is growing roots

The picture below is from Matthaei Botanical Garden of a mounted tillandsia cluster. As you can see there are dying and already dead plants, as well as living, blooming plants. The botanical garden  just lets them grow naturally, the way it would happen in nature.

Tillandsia ionantha clump at a botanical garden

Below is a tillandsia I have in a west window and it is blooming. This was a few years ago and now it has a large baby growing off its base.

A blooming tillandsia in my west window

So next time you look at your tillandsia and it doesn’t look as good as it could, it may be dying, but at the same time, making a baby or two to take its place. Do you have any tillandsias doing this?

If this was helpful, pin the picture below to save it!

The post Why is My Tillandsia Dying? #TuesdayTidbits appeared first on The Houseplant Guru.

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I recently did a presentation on light and houseplants. I told the audience that all tillandsias need very bright light. A young man, Raymond Carter, @mustybooks on Instagram, pointed out to me that many of the greener, smoother leaved tillandsias need less light than others. He made me think about my statement. (He recently graduated with a two year degree from Longwood Gardens in PA and has done studies on tillandsias. He was delightful and I am glad I had time to talk to him after my presentation.) What he said is true but for the most part, in our homes, tillandsias need more light than many people are supplying them with. It also seems that watering and caring for tillandsias is a mystery to many. So lets take the mystery out of how to water and care for tillandsia.

Two kinds of tillandsias

There are a couple of different kinds of tillandsias. There are xeric and mesic types. The mesic types typically have smooth or smoother leaves than xeric types, and their color is more green than silver. You can see in the picture below a silver tectorum in the back with large trichomes and the smooth leaf of the butzii tillandsia with no obvious trichomes in the front.

Tectorum with butzii in front. The difference is obvious.

What are trichomes?

They are the mechanisms with which the air plants collect and store their water. The larger, more obvious the trichomes, the more water they can hold and the less rain and moisture the plant receives. They also recieve very high light. These large trichomes allow them to hold water for a longer period than the smoother leaves with smaller trichomes such as the one on the butzii shown in front of it. The butzi is in an area that receives more rain or dew and so does not need to store water and in fact would rot if it had those large trichomes in its environment.

As you can see below, there are many types of tillandsias. Silver ones, green ones, smooth ones, thin leaved grassy types, and thick leaved ones. How to know how and when to water?

There are so many different forms of tillandsia

How do I water the different types?

No mater the type of tillandsia, I water mine the same. I throw them in a sink full of water and let them soak for at least 1/2 hour and sometimes much longer. It depends on whether I forget they are soaking or not. It won’t hurt them to even soak for a day or over night.

Tillandsias soaking in sink

The key is, I may not soak the xeric ones again for two to three weeks. The mesic ones will be watered again next week. It also depends on the amount of light you have them in. Mine are all in bright light. The lower the light, the less water the plant is using. None of mine are in what I would call low light. They are in medium to bright light and the xeric ones are in the south window with full sun.

Tillandsia xerographica on left, tectorum on right

Xeric tillandsias

The xerographica and tectorum above are silver, the xerographica has thick, leathery leaves, and the tectorum has huge trichomes. I know I need to water these much less often than their green, thin leaved counterparts. Yet, I still water them the same by soaking in the sink.

Bulbous or pot types of tillandsia that hold water in their bases

Bulbous tillandsia

The tillandsias above have bulbous bottoms and therefore hold more water. Because of that, I make sure I always shake them out and drain them upside down for a long time. I do that with all my air plants, but let the bulbous ones dry longer. I also typically only water the bulbous ones with obvious trichomes every two to three weeks the same as the xerographica and tomentosa. The seleriana below is one I don’t water as often because in the past, I have rotted them. If the water sits in the bulbous part and the light isn’t sufficient, they will rot as the water isn’t being used. Believe me. It is so upsetting as these larger tillandsia come with a larger price. As you can see below, the seleriana has a baby or pup. Read about those here.

You can see the obvious trichomes on these plants below, plus the caput-medusa and puruinosa are also bulbous types so need to be watered less often.

Mesic tillandsias

These tillandsias are either smooth leaved, usually dark to light green, and can be thin-leaved like the Tillandsia andreana below. They grow in places with more rain or dew and so are more used to being wet and therefore do not have a lot of obvious trichomes. They don’t need as many of them to hold water, as moisture is always available.

Tillandsia andreana

Grassy types of tillandsia

Thin leaved or grassy types

The tillandsias above have thin leaves and are more grassy like. They will need water more often as they do not have a lot of water holding capacity. I may soak them once a week and mist them, too. I keep these types in glass globes so that helps keep the moisture up. They aren’t completely enclosed but the humidity is higher.

The bulbosa and butzii are do have smooth leaves are are dark green in color, so I soak them once a week, but make sure the bulbous part is well drained or I may not always soak the bulbous part, leaning it against the sink edge with only the leaves in the water.

The key is light

I think the key is good light. The silver xeric ones definitely need more light and I always make sure they are in a south or west window. The mesic ones can take less light but I still give them good bright light. My west windows are full of them. Many are hanging over the kitchen sink so they get plenty of humidity as I still do dishes by hand and cooking also raises the humidity.

Dispelling myths

So, if you read that all your plants need is “air” or occasional misting, do not believe it. They also can not be placed in a dark place for lengthy period of time. If you want to move them around when company is coming or for short periods of time for decoration,  that is fine. But they need to be in bright light so move them back to the light when you are done hosting.

I hope this dispelled some myths about how to water and care for tillandsia and was helpful to you.

Let me know in the comments.

Pin this picture below to help you remember.

The post How to Water Tillandsia #TuesdayTidbits appeared first on The Houseplant Guru.

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The Houseplant Guru by Lisa@thehouseplantguru.com - 1M ago

Have you bought a crested euphorbia, like the ones below, and then wondered how to take care of it?

Variegated crested form grafted on to another succulent

The variegated ones above as you can see, are mostly white. They therefore can’t photosynthesize very well (photosynthesis only happens in the green parts of plants) so they are grafted on totally different green succulents.

I have had the one below for over 30 years and may have even bought it before I got married, making it over 34 years old. It is more than 3′ tall, becoming quite a bit larger than the little single crest I bought in a 4″ pot.

Crested euphorbia lactea over 30 years old

What are the straight pieces that come up from the crests?

Mine shoots out straight pieces that aren’t crested. Why? It is trying to revert back to its original form. Crested plants are a fluke of nature and have been caused by damage to the growing tip, a virus, fungus, or insect, or it could be hormonal or genetic. Pretty much, no one knows exactly why it happens and each plant is different. Here is an article about crested plants from the University of Arkansas. When they revert back to the form they should be, the plant is stronger and so can take over the crested part.

Cut the straight parts off.

See the long parts of the plant shooting straight up from the crests below? They need to be cut off. Remember, this is a euphorbia (poinsettia relative) so it has white milky sap. It may drip on your floors or furniture so simply use a piece of paper towel and place it over the cut like you would if you cut your face or legs shaving. It will stem the flow. Do not get it in your eyes or even on your skin as it could be an irritant to you. Wear gloves if needed.

Straight shoots coming up from the crested part of the plant.

My crested euphorbia is reverting to its original form

See how the crested part is starting to disappear

These are the straight pieces I cut off below. I could let them heal and propagate them, but I did not.

I cut off the straight, uncrested reversions

Euporbias bleed white sap but it will scab over

You can see the white sap coming from the cuts I’ve already made. They will eventually heal over and will disappear under crests as the plant continues to grow.

What happens if I don’t take them off?

Here is one at Bell Isle Conservatory in Detroit so you can see how this plant could easily be taken over, if allowed to. Yes, that is ONE plant!

Crested euphorbia at Belle Isle Conservatory

See how it is coming from the crested plant?

So, cut them off if you want your plant to continue to be crested or let them grow if you don’t mind the “looks like two plants in one” look. Eventually, though, the crested part may disappear under all the straight growing stems.

Do you like crested plants? Do you have any? I love the weirdness of them and collect them when I see them. Leave a comment below about your crested succulents.

Pin this image below for reference.

The post Crested Euphorbia Care appeared first on The Houseplant Guru.

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The Houseplant Guru by Lisa Steinkopf - 1M ago

Here is why I missed Tuesday Tidbits and an African violet post….a little bitty kitty captured my heart and my attention.

He loves laying on my husband’s lap

Meet the newest member of our family. This is Henry.

How did this little bitty kitty come to live with us? It’s a good story!

I may or may not have told you that last month I lost both of my kitties within a week. Bianca was 19 and it was expected. Louis on the other hand, was a surprise. He quit eating and when I took him in to be checked, it was discovered that his stomach was full of cancer…..so within 9 days of each other, we were without pets for the first time in over 25 years. We. Were. DEVASTATED.

We decided to not get another pet for a while. Of course, in the meantime, our kids were sending us kitty pictures from pet rescue centers. I decided I needed a kitty. I have a friend who volunteers at the Humane Society and asked her to start looking for a black kitty for me. My first rescue was a black cat and we’ve had one every since. That request went out Friday morning.

The text that changed everything!

Fast forward to Friday night when I got a text from my daughter who was at a get together in Detroit. Here are two of the pictures I received, with a text saying a kitty needed a home.

Henry and the lady that rescued him

Waiting for me to take him home

Of course, I fell in love instantly and drove to Detroit at 10 pm Friday night to pick him up. It turns out a couple on the way to the party almost ran over him as he crossed Jefferson Avenue in Detroit. It is a very busy, multiple lane street. They slammed on their brakes and the kitty went under their car. She jumped out,  scooped him up and brought him to the party. They couldn’t keep him as the husband is allergic to cats. I am so glad they stopped to rescue him! Thank you Morgan!! So my daughter called me and I went immediately. Below is a picture of the first time I held him. We were going to name him Jefferson, but it just didn’t work for a kitty name. (Don’t you agree?) So he is Henry, after Henry Ford.

Baby!

The next morning, on a holiday weekend no less, I luckily found a vet that was open and took him in. He had an injured leg and tail. In fact, his leg was badly broken and he needed surgery to put a pin in. Oh, boy.

So Tuesday morning,after keeping him as calm as possible for the weekend, he had surgery on his leg. He may lose the tip of his tail, but we won’t know for a while.

He is healing nicely and is a happy playful kitty, surprisingly. You would think he would just lay around in pain, but no. He is rolling around playing with his toys and barely limps.

We love him. So now you know why I was absent from social media on Tuesday. All for the love of this adorable kitty! I am so glad we could save this little kitty from certain death on the busy streets of Detroit!

The post A Little Bitty Kitty appeared first on The Houseplant Guru.

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I get a lot of questions concerning pots without drainage holes, called cachepots.  Should you drill a drainage hole? What’s great about the pot I just purchased (and I have been seeing more of these in the garden centers), is that it has a “plug” in the bottom of the pot.

Plug in the pot so it doesn’t drain

It can be removed OR left in, depending on whether you want to use it as a cachepot or not.

Can see the plug looking from inside

How do you pronounce cachepot?

Cachepot is pronounced ‘cash-po’!

What is a cachepot?

A cachepot is an ornamental receptacle to hold and usually to conceal a flowerpot or French, from cacher to hide + pot pot . So if you want to use it as a cachepot to just “hide” your pot, leave the plug in. Place your plant still in its utilitarian grower’s pot in the decorative pot. Take it out to water it and then after letting it drain, put it back in the ceramic pot.

Use as a cachepot and “hide” your pot

Just set the plant inside and remove to water

Now, because it is just a plug in the pot and thought it most likely will not let water through the plugged hole, I personally would still place it on a saucer in case water seeps out. I’m weird like that….

Or take the plug out and plant your houseplant right into the pot. That is what I prefer, but that’s just me. You do what is best for you. Using it as a cachepot would definitely be a good choice if the container in question is an antique or special and you don’t want to drill a hole.

Here is the plug removed

What if my pot doesn’t have a hole?

On the other hand if you find a pot you like without a plug to remove, it is time to break out the diamond-tipped drill bit or masonry bit. I found this adorable face pot but it didn’t have a drainage hole. That never stops me from buying a pot.

It’s time to break out the drill!

I just get out my drill and diamond-tipped drill bit and drill a hole in the pot. I place it on a sponge in the sink as when using this drill bit you need to have water running on it to keep it cool, and the sponge protects it from breaking while drilling.

Simply place a piece of screen over the hole to keep the medium in and let the water out

I place a piece of window screen over the hole to keep the medium in, but let the water drain out freely. (NO DRAINAGE MATERIAL NEEDED)

I had a ledebouria or silver squill and gave her some hair. What do you think?

I planted a ledebouria or silver squill for hair.

The point is, if you are using it as a cachepot, not directly planting in it, you can leave the plug in or choose not to drill a hole. If on the other hand, you want to plant it directly in the pot, I highly recommend drilling a hole. It really is better for your plant as you can more readily determine if it is getting watered properly and draining well. No drowned plant as water can escape out the bottom.

How do you handle a pot without drainage? Cachepot or no?

Use the picture below to save this to your houseplant Pinterest board. You have one, right?

The post Should My Pot Have a Drainage Hole? appeared first on The Houseplant Guru.

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