I’m so excited that this forum affords me my own blog! What a unique and valuable perk!
As I continue My self-guided tour of the baking and bread world, I sometimes become frustrated with the lingo of baking. Not because I don’t understand the words. I’m a linguist at heart, and sometimes (especially when I’m writing a recipe), I can look at my musings for hours, trying to decide which word is best.
Dough rises. But do you raise it? Before you put the dough in the oven, do you proof it, or prove it (and on whom lays the burden of proof?). Can “proof” be used in any part of the fermentation cycle; is the dough proofing after every knead, during every rise?
And then there are the various kneading cycles. Is one “mixing” the dough the first time round? And kneading” the second? And “punching down” the dough sounds artsy, but it’s no more descriptive than “punching down” the dough, which, according to the latest research, is a misnomer; punching does nothing for dough, or relationships, or walls, and might be harmful to either of the three.
Last linguistic beef with baking terms. Or maybe I’m just being a whining liberal. I think we need a new term for prolonged fermentation in the fridge. These days, retarded fermentation just sounds, well, insulting. Wouldn’t “delayed fermentation,l “interrupted fermentation,” or “super-duper long fermentation” work equally well without casting aspersions on people with disabilities? Okay, maybe I’m just too sensitive to social issues.
I promised a recipe in title. This is not a bread recipe, but with a little tweaking, you could turn it into a pizza topping, so I feel vindicated in posting it.
When I was about sixteen, my family went on a road trip across America, our last great vacation together as a family. We stopped in the Big Easy for a few nights, and Dad treated us to dinner at a very posh restaurant with a long NOLA tradition. The seating was dark red velvet, the wait staff were dressed in formal clothes, and the restaurant was so dark that the waiter had to bring a flashlight so he could read the check. Then the waiter had to bring an AED. I ordered the BBQ shrimp, and I was gonna xpecting a couple of skewers of shrimp cooked on a grill. What I got was a steaming platter of heads-on shrimp doused in a sauce that was nearly black with pepper. A finger bowl was served alongside. I thought it was a dipping sauce to cut the peppery heat of the shrimp, and hilarity ensued. The bowl did have a lemon in it! I didn’t know how to cook at the time, so I didn’t really pay attention to the tastes, and I’ve never been able to duplicate that dish. But the following recipe is quite close.
I love New Orleans. The music, the architecture, the lore, and the art are unequaled almost any where in America. Did I forget something? Oh yeah, the food! Whenever I get the chance to visit New Orleans, I’m planning my menu before I get to the airport! I love seafood, literally. And there’s no better place for it than NOLA!
So here’s my version of a classic Cajun/ Creole dish. BBQ shrimp never sees a grill. The BBQ is in reference to the sauce that the shrimp are cooked in. There are enough recipes for NOLA BBQ shrimp to fill volumes! If you ask ten people in the Big Easy for their recipe, you’ll get eleven answers. Or maybe fifteen!
My rationale for sharing this recipe in a baking forum is that it can be deconstructed and made into a pizza.
CAJUN BBQ SHRIMP
Sorry I have no pics of this dish. I usually photograph all my food, but slipped up this time.
1/2 to 1 lb unpeeled heads-on shrimp. 1/2 lb is perfect for two. There’s no need to divide the sauce ingredients in half; you’ll just have a bit more sauce to share.The heads are important for the texture and taste of the dish. They’re also the best part of the meal; sucking the juices and seasonings out of the heads. You can use peeled, deveined frozen shrimp, but it won’t be Nawlins BBQ Shrimp!
2 sticks unsalted butter. Yes, that’s 1 cup of butter. You may even need more. I prefer to use clarified butter or ghee, for its higher smoke point and deeper flavor.
1/2 yellow or white onion, finely diced
2 tsp dried rosemary
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp commercial Creole seasoning,
8 cloves of garlic, smashed and finely minced
3 tbsp Worcestershire sauce. You can add more or less to taste, but the Worcestershire sauce is the main flavor. Again, if you leave it out, it’s not BBQ shrimp
1 large bottle of lager beer. No microbrews or dark ales. You won’t use the whole bottle. I’m sure you know what to do with the rest! You can substitute a dry white wine or dry vermouth
1 tbsp finely ground black pepper. Fresh ground black pepper is too coarse, and finely ground pepper will distribute the pepper flavor through the dish much better
1 large lemon sliced into 1/2” rounds
Preheat the oven to 300°F
Melt the butter over medium heat in a large cast iron skillet. After the butter has stopped foaming, add the opinion and cook till soft and translucent, 5 to 8 minutes.
Add the spices and stir until fragrant, 30 seconds to 1minute. Add the garlic and do the same, about 30 seconds. Do not let the garlic brown.
Add the Worcestershire sauce and about half the bottle beer, stir and bring to a simmer. Simmer until reduced by 1/4, and remove the heat. Allow to cool for 5 to 10 minutes.
Position the shrimp in a single layer in the sauce, then turn them to coat. Sprinkle the shrimp with black pepper and top with the lemon slices.
Place the skillet in the oven. After 5 minutes, turn the shrimp using tongs or a spatula. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes longer, until till the shrimp are pink and the flesh is just turning opaque. Serve over rice or with warm, crusty French or Italian bread. Don’t forget to suck on the shrimp heads, that’s the best part!
If you’d like to turn this into a pizza topping, after the shrimp has cooked, strain the sauce and peel the shrimp. Add two tablespoons of sauce back in the skillet, and add two tablespoons flour, stirring constantly until the the roux is thick and your spoon leaves a trail. Add the rest of the sauce and cook, stirring, until thick. Use the sauce for the pizza and top it with the shrimp. Laissez les bon temps rouler!
Submitted by bread1965 on March 17, 2018 - 6:02pm.
I started building a starter for a weekend bake over the past few days, but on Friday morning got a bit ahead of myself and created a bigger amount of starter than I normally do.. I find feeding 1:4:4 works for my kitchen temp and starter strength when I'm feeding every 12 hours.. but then I came home late Friday night to this..
It was about 500+ grams of starter that by this stage had more than trippled.. I guess on the one hand I should be happy to have a virbrant and active starter!
So I decided to put it to good use but didn't have a formal plan. So I added 800g of unbleached bread flour, 200g of whole wheat flour, 720g of water (autolysed for about an hour), 200g of starter, 20g of fine sea salt. I mixed this well and then thirty minutes later I added 100g of hemp hearts, 100g of brown flax seeds, 100g of oat bran (all three were toasted), 25g of chia seeds and 50g of amber honey. I gave it all a good mix and did so again thirty minutes later. But it was already late and the night's scotch was starting to make me sleepy! I decided to leave it on the counter for the night given the amount of additions.. it looked like this..
By the next morning I woke up to this..
It looked good and obviously rose well. But had little structure as I didn't give it much by way of stretch and folds. I thought of it as a no-knead experiment.. I poured it out on my bench and it deflated a fair amount in the process despite my best gentle efforts. I pre-shaped and then shaped it into a few loaves to proof in baskets. I left them on the counter for almost four hours and they probably rose around 75% or so.. i always find it hard to know for sure..
Loading the proofed loaf into the combo cooker.. as I put it in the basket seam side down I didn't score the loaf.. (probably should have just the same)..
Here they are out of the oven..
Here's the crumb shot..
The aroma while they baked was earthy and great. The crumb is dense but not overly wet or under-cooked. It's just not open and is heavy. It's very tasty, good and better toasted, but not ideal.
So my question is to ask: is this more about too much additives by weight of dough, or process? Can you make a more open/lighter crumb with this much in additions or did I cross the limit and added too much? Or was this about process, and by not creating structure with stretch and folds and making this an overnight no-knead that the outcome was inevitable?
Onions and rye go together like hot fudge and ice cream. I haven't made a good rye bread in a while so today's bake was all about creating a flavorful onion rye with a moist open crumb. I wanted to use my new Yeast Water in this bake but didn't want to only rely on it to leaven the bread so I mixed up a simple AP starter with some spelt bran and added the YW as part of the liquid in the main dough.
The porridge was a combo of rolled oats and rye chops (chopped rye berries) and milk to add some extra creaminess.
I milled the rye flour using my MockMill 200 and sifted out the germ and bran. I tried something different this time and added about 55 grams of the germ/bran to some of the water from the main dough and let it soften at the same time as the main dough flours were autolysing with the YW and water. Usually I add it to the main dough after mixing for about 5 minutes. I'm not sure if this really made a difference, but the combination of the YW and high hydration really gave me a moist and open crumb which tastes amazing (if I do say so myself !).
Here are the Zip files for the above BreadStorm files.
Mix all the levain ingredients together for about 1 minute and cover with plastic wrap. Let it sit at room temperature for around 7-8 hours or until the starter has doubled. You can use it immediately in the final dough or let it sit in your refrigerator overnight.
Cut onion into thin rings and cook on low heat in a saute pan with some olive oil for around 30-45 minutes until the onions are nice and brown and full of sweetness. I added a little balsamic vinegar at the end to make them even sweeter.
Add about 3/4's of the milk called for in the porridge to the dry ingredients in a small pot set to low and stir constantly until all the milk is absorbed. Add the remainder of the milk and keep stirring until you have a nice creamy and soft porridge. Remove from the heat and let it come to room temperature before adding to the dough.
Main Dough Procedure
Mix the flours and the water for about 1 minute. Let the rough dough sit for about an hour. Next add the levain, cooled porridge, Yeast Water and salt and mix on low for 5 minutes. Now add the caramelized onions and mix on low for another minute until they are incorporated. Remove the dough from your bowl and place it in a lightly oiled bowl or work surface and do several stretch and folds. Let it rest covered for 10-15 minutes and then do another stretch and fold. Let it rest another 10-15 minutes and do one additional stretch and fold. After a total of 2 hours place your covered bowl in the refrigerator and let it rest for 12 to 24 hours. (Since I used my proofer I only let the dough sit out for 1.5 hours before refrigerating).
When you are ready to bake remove the bowl from the refrigerator and let it set out at room temperature still covered for 1 hour. Remove the dough and shape as desired.
The dough will take 1.5 to 2 hours depending on your room temperature and will only rise about 1/3 it's size at most. Let the dough dictate when it is read to bake not the clock.
Around 45 minutes before ready to bake, pre-heat your oven to 520 degrees F. and prepare it for steam. I have a heavy-duty baking pan on the bottom rack of my oven with 1 baking stone on above the pan and one on the top shelf. I pour 1 cup of boiling water in the pan right after I place the dough in the oven.
Right before you are ready to put them in the oven, score as desired and then add 1 cup of boiling water to your steam pan or follow your own steam procedure.
After 5 minute lower the temperature to 450 degrees. Bake for 35-50 minutes until the crust is nice and brown and the internal temperature of the bread is 205 degrees.
Take the bread out of the oven when done and let it cool on a bakers rack before for at least 2 hours before eating.
Submitted by Danni3ll3 on March 16, 2018 - 5:30am.
Leslie made some fantastic loaves with this recipe and since it was something that I had seen a number of people try and produce amazing loaves, I decided to give it a shot. Of course, I had to go and change the way the dough was put together. 🙄
I went ahead and used Trevor’s premix method but when it came to mix the soaker with the water and flour for the main dough, I realized that this was not going to work because a lot of the hydration came from the levain, and with the pre-mix method, the levain doesn’t go in till the next morning. So at first, I thought, no biggie, I will just steal some water from the levain and it will be all good. Well, uh! No! If I stole enough water from the levain to be able to mix the soaker with the flour, I was left with only 46 g of water to hydrate the 225 g of flour. So that wasn’t going to work.
I was going to need to add a lot more water to the whole recipe. So I went with 70% hydration for the dough flour (the soaker had sucked up all of the water and didn’t look like it was about to give any back, it was that firm) and 80% hydration for the levain which came out to 13% more hydration than what Leslie posted in her recipe without the extra bits she added while making her dough. I crossed my fingers and hoped I didn’t end up with soup when I mix the levain in with the main dough in the morning.
I also did one more change and that was to use the wholewheat flour in the levain instead of the a/p flour it called for. I wanted the bran to be softened by the acid in the levain. So the pre-mixed dough was all a/p flour. Our Canadian flour is ~13% protein (if you can believe the company’s claims) so I didn’t use any vital wheat gluten or high gluten flour.
And the last thing to note is that I scaled this for 3 boules of about 750 g.
Here is what I did:
80 g rye chops
80 g flax seed
70 g sunflower seeds
70 g oat groats
7 g sea salt
367 g boiling water
665 g unbleached flour
465 g water
46 g starter
180 g water
225 g Selkirk wheat
Soaker: Mill the rye chops and the oat groats very coarsely. It ended up looking a bit like coarse salt. Coarsely grind the flax seeds. I did this in a magic bullet as the Komo mill people don’t recommend using oily seeds in their mill. Combine the above with the sunflower seeds and toast the entire mixture in a dry frying pan. Add the salt and the boiling water. Cover and set aside for a few hours.
Premix: Measure out the water for the main dough, throw in the soaker and loosen it so there are no lumps. Add the salt for the main dough and then the flour. Mix well and put in the fridge for a few hours. Before going to bed, take the dough out of the fridge and let it sit overnight on the counter at room temperature.
Levain: Mill the Selkirk wheat and sift out the bran. Remill the bran to make finer particles. Reserve. Before bed, dissolve the starter in the water for the levain, add the bran, stir well, then add the flour and mix. It will be a thick mix as this is 80% hydration levain using whole grain flour. Leave to rise in a warm place overnight.
In the morning, add all of the levain. Mix well using folding and rolling until the levain is well distributed in the dough. Dough felt pretty sticky and loose, but the Levain mixed in easily.
Place in a warm place and do 3 sets of stretches and folds one hour apart. The dough came together nicely with the folds even though I could feel that the hydration was a lot more than what I usually work with. I had a gap of a couple of hours between the second and third fold because I had a lunch date with friends. I probably would have done hourly folds otherwise. I let it rise to 40-50%.
Divide the dough and pre-shape gently by rounding the dough on a lightly floured counter. Let rest one hour, covered. Do a final shape by cinching and pulling the dough to make a fairly tight boule, but without deflating the dough. The dough felt quite soft but did support its own weight as a boule. Place seam side down in rice/ap floured bannetons and cover. Let proof on the counter for an hour and a half, and then put to bed for the night.
The next morning, pre-heat the oven and the Dutch ovens to 475F. Place parchment rounds in the bottom of the pots and place the dough in seam side up. Score if desired. Cover and bake for 25 minutes at 450F. Remove lids and bake for a further 22 minutes at 425F.
Well the results were very little oven spring. I wonder if I should have added that vwg after all. I also wonder if the gluten in the Levain degraded during the overnight rise. It did feel sort of very loose when I used it. Hopefully, the taste makes up for the appearance. I need to make this again but following Leslie’s procedure this time.
Submitted by Cedarmountain on March 16, 2018 - 3:30am.
Oat porridge sourdough has become one of my favourite breads. This is a variation on the oat porridge bread in Chad Robertson's "Tartine 3". I was intrigued by Robertson's addition of almonds and almond oil to complement the texture and flavour of the oat porridge and have been using the basic oat porridge bread recipe to explore other additions.
I milled and sifted 50 g organic spelt, 50 g organic rye and 200 g Marquis wheat (the bran was set aside for coating the loaves); this was mixed with 750 g organic all purpose flour, 775 g water and autolysed for 2 hours at room temperature. Then I added 20 g sea salt (usually I use 22 g but there is some salt in the addition so I thought it best to cut back a little), 220 g very active young levain (4 hours) and started the bulk fermentation. I did a series of gentle stretch and folds every 30 minutes for the first two hours with an addition after the second series of folds of 250 g oat porridge, 100 g finely ground salted cashews and 75 g finely ground toasted sesame seeds (not quite a paste but close) and 100 g golden and brown flax seeds soaked with 140 g boiling water for 2 hours. After 4 hours the dough was pre-shaped and rested for 1/2 hour then final shaping and into linen lined baskets seam side down (tinkering with the look of the finished loaf, with/without slashing, seam up/seam down) and dusted with bran and rice flour/flour mix. I cold proofed the loaves overnight in the fridge for 10 hours and baked them direct from the fridge the next day; covered for 22 minutes at 500 F; 10 minutes at 450 F and then uncovered and finished directly on the baking stone for 25 minutes at 450 F. I like this bread, a lot....
I'm finally getting some good scoring. I think my razor blade is too dull, I have to go back a second time through to get a decent score. I also think part of my issue with batards falling flat as soon as I get them in the oven has been to do with my proofing baskets. I think my batard bannetons are actually pretty small? (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006J7KBPW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) When I've tried a whole 500g dough (half of a FWSY recipe), it almost seems like it's too much dough for the basket. Anyway, I've quartered the recipe so this is half the amount of called dough per loaf.
Baked at 460 (per David's suggest when using a stone instead of DO with FWSY) for 15 minutes covered and 20 uncovered.
Earlier this month, Joze (joc1954) posted his Barley-Rye Bread, a lovely dense nutty boule. Having a bag of barley on hand but never using it before, I decided to give it a go. But, as with my usual linear uncircular bread self, as baguettes.
According to Joze's write-up the dough takes no autolyse, has a long bench rise for a warm kitchen (3 1/2 hours) and a long retard (20 hours). At 75% hydration this dough is quite dense and was difficult to French Fold without the flours soaking in an autolyse for at least 30-60 minutes or more. Letter Folds every 45 minutes. The dough remained stiff and fought being stretched and eventually shaped at every moment of its existence. Neither extensible nor elastic, it just was...
Halfway through the bulk retard I shaped and placed it on a couche, still dense and stiff, but workable and required only the slightest amount of flour on the bench and couche. Back into retard and baked about 21 hours after it first entered he refrigerator. Scoring was simple. 450dF, 13 minutes with steam, and another 13 minutes after rotating, with a final 2 minutes venting.
And like Forrest Gump's box of chocolates, I didn't know what I'd get, how the bake would turn out, how much grigne or how open the crumb would be. Oven spring was somewhat minimal but with a fine grigne and the crumb remained particularly dense. I'll say that was due to having to be manipulated with heavy hands in order to pre-shape and shape the dough - a lot more so rather than to simply ball the dough up for a boule. A lot denser than Joze's boule.
A very "wheaty" taste, a bit addictive in fact. 40% bread flour, 30% rye, 30% barley. 75% hydration with 10% pre-fermented rye flour in 100% hydration levain. I would have preferred a darker bake, but for a first foray in the barley-rye playpen, I remained on the cautious side of the playground.
Submitted by leslieruf on March 13, 2018 - 4:02pm.
Yesterday was the last day to top up bread for the next week plus leave some in the freezer for when we return.
So Sunday overnight refreshed the starter, then Monday made 2 builds, converting it to 100% hydration and using bran for the 2nd build. 2nd & 3rd builds combined as we were going to be out until evening. Before going to bed built the levains required for my bake.
Hamelman"s 5 grain Levain (pictured)
Flaxseed 62 g
cracked rye 62 g
sunflower seed 52 g
Rolled oats 52 g
salt 5 g
Boiling water 276 g
Bread flour 169 g
Water 211 g (yes 125% hydration)
Mature starter seed 34 g
Hi gluten flour 338 g (I used bread flour + 11 g gluten to approximate 13.5% protein)
Wholewheat flour 169 g
Water 175 g
Salt 12.2 g
All the soaker
All the levain
Monday afternoon weighted out the seeds, gave the flaxseeds a quick grind in the coffee grinder so it was a mix of fine and coarse. I use jumbo rolled oats so gave them a quick chop the toasted all the grains and left to cool. Amazing smell. I haven't used toasted seed in this amount before.
Monday night before bed mixed the levain and left on bench. Mixed the soaker allowed to cool then covered it. It soaked up all the liquid very quickly.
Tuesday morning room temperature is 21 deg C. Added water and soaker to the levain, mixed well then added to flour and salt mix. Mixed with stretch and folds until all incorporated. It was pretty sticky and much firmer than I remember from the other occasions I have made this. Left to rest for 10 minutes then did some for stretch and folds. I added 2 tspn water (about 6 g) at this point as I felt it was a bit too firm. Left to rest. I did 3 more stretch and folds over next 3 hours then left to finish bulk ferment.
This is after 2nd lot of stretch and folds.
2 hours later I divided the dough and preshaped, it had increased maybe 40%.
I left it for 45 minutes but it didn't relax hugely, but was easy to shape into 2 batards. Turned the oven on to preheat DOs. This time I bench proofed and about an hour or so later it was looking poofy so popped them into the oven 15 mins lid on at 250 deg and then 20 minutes lid off. I kept the convection on during this bake to keep oven temperature up and it seemed to help.
Here is the 2nd batard. After my recent experiences with Tartine style Country Champlain the shaping, scoring etc was a breeze.
and of course, the crumb shot.
Very happy camper!
At the same time I made 3 small (300 g) 1:2:3 sourdough boules. I found this was a very firm dough as well, much more so than normal. I have opened a new bag of gluten flour (from a different source) and I really wonder if that is influencing things so much. I am adjusting my 11% protein flour to 12.5% but previous bakes have been much wetter.
These had 4 x 10 stretch and folds, 2 hour BF followed by 20 mins preshape with about a 2 -3 hour proof.
No crumb shot, these were frozen as is.
The final part of the bake was Trevor Wilson's Champlain. I will post details on "Anyone interested in a Champlain SD bake?" shortly.
The day went well, it was busy and I was on a schedule to get it all baked before I went out to a 7 pm meeting. lol, hubby had to take the final 1:2:3 loaf which was the final one, out for me. I am happy with the crumb from the 5 grain levain as this has such a lot of grain, but I think it is the best I have baked this bread!
I worked along the original formula as near as possible. But some little deviations had to be done.
First of all, as I always do, with 500 g total flour.
I have no white seed-starter, so I used my rye starter @ 100%, and, for longer ripening-time, only 20 g - 4 %.
I have no durum berries for milling, so I used coarse durum flour, normaly for pasta making. This worked fine with other breads bevore.
Instead of fresh milled WW I used a reminder coarse WW flour witch had a lot of bran in it. But now it is gone! ;-)
I took 5 g fresh yeast - 1 %, as most time.
During the first mixing after autolyse I had only a wet batter in my bowl, so I decided to add 20 g VWG - 4 %.
After adding the seasalt the dough got strength, after adding the yogurt the strength got better, after the olive oil one more.
Bulk for 1.5 h with s&f direct, and after 30 and 60 mn.
Shaping was difficult, but here on TFL I read an articel, that helped me a lot! So I gave to the dough 3 x 2 "tour simple" during 30 mn. Then into the linned and well dusted banneton and for 7 h into the fridge at 4C/39F.