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Above: Jenny Packham Resort 2018

Emily-in-the-glass looked very well that night. She had got the dress she had longed for for years–spent the whole price of a story on it, to her aunt’s horror. Shot silk – blue in one light, silver in another, with mists of lace. She remembered that Teddy had said that when she got that dress he would painter her as an Ice-maiden in it.

  • from Emily’s Quest by L.M. Montgomery

Above: Marchesa Notte, Resort 2018. Below, Natasha Zinko Resort 2018

Above: Luisa Beccaria Resort 2018. Below, Pamella Roland Resort 2018

Above: Reem Acra, Resort 2018. Below, Sonia Rykiel Pre-Fall 2018

All images from Vogue Runway

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The September Issues are the most important issue a fashion magazine puts out during the publishing year. This being said, let’s see how Canada’s three biggest fashion magazines fared diversity-wise this month…

The Magazine: Elle Canada

The Cover Star: Jessica Chastain

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: Yes, there was one fashion editorial in this issue and it starred one thin, black model (Herieth Paul!)

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: Nope

The Magazine: FASHION

The Cover Star: Lorde

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: There were two fashion editorials in this issue. The first starred one thin, white model. The second, like Elle Canada, starred Herieth Paul!

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: Nope

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St. Vincent (Annie Clark) is amazing. She is smart, funny (just go watch all the promo video clips for MASSEDUCATION on her Instagram), clever, and her video for “New York” is the best. Screen caps below. I can’t wait for her new album to come out.

I saw her live a few years ago in Calgary for Sled Island–hands down one of the best live shows I have ever been to in my life.

Seeing her perform “Cheerleader” live  at Sled Island has become an anthem of sorts for me when I’m just done with the the cheerfulness and from-the-sidelines attitude that the patriarchy so often demands from us.

I feel like St. Vincent, Janelle Monaé, and of course Beyoncé are probably the trifecta of women I would follow into the future.

“New York” is such a brilliant song — it loops perfectly, and next thing you know, I’ve been listening to it for hours…

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Above: Simone Rocha Spring 2017

It would in truth have been a ghastly interview had it not been for Ilse, who chattered with all her old breeziness and tang, planning out a two weeks of gay doings while she was home […] the same lovable old madcap of laughter and jest and dressed with all her old gorgeous violations of accepted canons of taste. In an extraordinary dress–a thing of greenish-yellow. She had a big pink peony at her waist and another at her shoulder. She wore a bright green hat with a wreath of pink flowers on it. Great hoops of pearly swung in her ears. It was a weird costume. No one but Ilse could have worn it successfully. And she looked like the incarnation of a thousand tropic springs in it– exotic, provocative, beautiful. So beautiful!

  • from Emily’s Quest by L.M. Montgomery

Above: Rodarte Spring 2018

Above: Mary Katrantzou Spring 2017

Above: Molly Goddard, Spring 2017

Above: Luisa Beccaria, Resort 2018

Above: Etro, Spring 2017

Above: Alice + Olivia Pre Fall 2017

Above: Alena Akhmadullin Resort 2018

All images above from Vogue Runway

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She has literary ambitions, I understand, and considers herself the best dressed girl in High School. Perhaps she is; but somehow her clothes seem to make more impression on you than she does. People criticise Ilse for dressing too richly and too old but she dominates her clothes for all that. Evelyn doesn’t. You always think of her clothes before you think of her. The difference seems to be that Evelyn dresses for other people and Ilse dresses for herself.

  • from Emily Climbs by L.M. Montgomery
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How diverse were the August 2017 issues of Canada’s top fashion magazines? We report on this every month, taking into consideration the cover star as well as the representation in the fashion editorials. Read on to find out how this month’s issues fared.

Editor’s Note: Our top Canadian fashion magazines’ publishing calendars have been all over the map this year. FASHION’s “Summer” issue covered June and July, while Elle Canada’s “Summer” issue seemed to cover July and August (see below).

The Magazine: FASHION

The Cover Star: Gigi Gorgeous

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White. Note that this issue of FASHION is a record-breaker–this is the first Canadian fashion magazine in the history of this column (which we’ve been doing for about 4 years now) to feature a trans* cover star. While it’s been way too long in the making (hello, Laverne Cox, Janet Mock, Andreja Pejic, Jenna Talackova) who would also make excellent candidates for cover stars hint hint), still, FASHION leads the way!

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: Yes. This issue had two fashion editorials, the first starring one thin, black model. The second editorial starred folks of all backgrounds and genders.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No.

Note: this information is the same as what was reported last month

The Magazine: Elle Canada

The Cover Star: Michaela Kocianova

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: No! They had an opportunity to have some diversity and totally didn’t choose to; there was one fashion  editorial in this month’s issue and it starred two thin, white models. As such, this is a Whiteout Issue.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No.

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Ahh yes, arguably the most important playlist of the year–the Summer playlist. Felt a bit more melancholy this year, the second half of the playlist reflects this.

Summer 2017 track list:

  1. J-Boy by Phoenix
  2. Rose-colored boy by Paramore
  3. Near to the Wild Heart of Life by Japandroids
  4. Momentz by Gorillaz
  5. Wanted More by BETSY
  6. Love Stuck by Mother Mother
  7. Stay Happy by Broken Social Scene
  8. Love is Dead by Hazel English
  9. Morning Bells by Lola Marsh
  10. Love by Lana del Rey
  11. Bobby by (Sandy) Alex G
  12. Hug of Thunder by Broken Social Scene
  13. Bette Davis Eyes (cover) by Rogue Wave
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I’m still focusing on largely ready books by women. We’re half-way through 2017 (!!!), here is what I have read so far this year. Of note–I have started reading more poetry! This is something inspired by a tidbit in the book by Cheryl Strayed (see below):

If you had to give one piece of advice to people in their twenties, what would it be?

Cheryl Strayed: To go to a bookstore and buy ten books of poetry and read them each five times.

Why?

CS: Because the truth is inside.

  1. The Violet Hour: Great Writers the End by Katie Roiphe
  2. Deathless by Catherynne M. Valente (again)
  3. Not Just Jane: Rediscovering Seven Amazing Women Writers Who Transformed British Literature by Shelley DeWees
  4. It Ended Badly: 13 of the Worst Breakups in History by Jennifer Wright
  5. The Goddess Chronicle by Natsuo Kirino
  6. Wonder Women: 25 Innovators, Inventors, and Trailblazers Who Changed History by Sam Maggs
  7. Romantic Outlaws: The Extraordinary Lives of Mary Wollstonecraft and Mary Shelley by Charlotte Gordon
  8. Wigs on the Green by Nancy Mitford
  9. The Feminist Utopia Project: Fifty-Seven Visions of a Wildly Better Future edited by Alexandra Brodsky and Rachel Kauder Nalebuff
  10. Memoirs of a Polar Bear by Yoko Tawada
  11. Kushiel’s Justice by Jacqueline Carey (again)
  12. Feminist Fight Club: An Office Survival Manual for a Sexist Workplace by Jessica Bennett
  13. Hundreds and Thousands: The Journals of an Artist by Emily Carr
  14. Many Lives, Many Masters: The True Story of a Prominent Psychiatrist, His Young Patient, and the Past-Life Therapy That Changed Both Their Lives by Brian L. Weiss, M.D.
  15. A Lonely Lady by Willa Cather
  16. A Tale for the Time Being by Ruth Ozeki
  17. Tiny Beautiful Things: Advice on Love and Life from Dear Sugar by Cheryl Strayed
  18. The Opposite House by Helen Oyeyemi

 Poetry

  1. Dark Sparkler (poetry book) by Amber Tamblyn
  2. Memories by Lang Leav
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While Spring has passed by us now, I’m still sharing my Spring mix tape for lighter days.


spring minis track list:
  1. Tides by Gold Child
  2. Gold Angel by Minke
  3. Real Love Baby by Father John Misty
  4. Astral Plane by Valerie June
  5. Proud by (Sand) Alex G
  6. Coming of Age by Julia Jaklin
  7. Ladies Don’t Play Guitar by Tennis
  8. Dream by Husbands
  9. Hard Times by Paramore
  10. Just Because by Lionlimb
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How diverse were the July 2017 issues of Canada’s top fashion magazines? We report on this every month, taking into consideration the cover star as well as the representation in the fashion editorials. Read on to find out how this month’s issues fared.

The Magazine: Elle Canada

The Cover Star: Michaela Kocianova

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: No! They had an opportunity to have some diversity and totally didn’t choose to; there was one fashion  editorial in this month’s issue and it starred two thin, white models. As such, this is a Whiteout Issue.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No.

Note: this information is the same as what was reported last month

The Magazine: FASHION

The Cover Star: Heather Marks

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: This was a Whiteout Issue. This is especially disappointing as it is FASHION’s Summer Issue, covering both June and July 2017. There were two fashion editorials. The first starred one thin, white model. The second starred two thin, white models. As such, there were a lot of wasted opportunities for diversity.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No.

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