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The manual mode popularly known as the professional mode in Vivo V9 mobile phone is similar to the manual mode of a DSLR camera. The manual mode in this smartphone allows you to adjust the exposure settings of the camera such as the shutter speed, ISO, white balance, focusing range and exposure compensation. By manually adjusting these settings you can capture creative photos such as long exposures and light trails, which otherwise would not be possible using the automatic mode.

In this post, you will get to know how you can use these settings in the manual mode to get the best results possible using the Vivo V9 smartphone.

Shutter Speed in Manual Mode of Vivo V9 Camera

Shutter Speed is the length of time for which the shutter in the camera is open to expose the image sensor. The shutter speed is denoted in seconds or fractions of a second, e.g. 2 sec, 10 sec, 1/50 sec, 1/250 sec, etc. A faster shutter speed can be used to freeze the subject in your frame, whereas slow shutter speed can be used to capture the subject in motion or a long exposure shot.

The Vivo V9 camera app allows you to manually adjust the shutter speed to as fast as 1/12000 sec and as slow as 16 seconds. The shutter speed range is amazing on this phone, usually, it is not so high or slow in the majority of smartphones.

Using the shutter speed of 1/500 sec or faster, you can freeze the movement of a fast moving subject such as a sportsman or a bird/animal. The fast shutter speed will ensure that the subject that is moving at a fast speed appears steady and sharp in the photo. As in the image below, I wanted to freeze the movement of the subject in my frame, so I used the fast shutter speed using the manual mode in my mobile camera app.

If you want to capture the same scene but want to show some movement, you can use a slow shutter speed in order to increase the duration for with the image sensor gets exposed for. By doing so, you would be able to capture a photo which shows movement, it could be a moving sportsperson or an animal.

To know more about shutter speed, read: UNDERSTANDING SHUTTER SPEED

NOTE: It is advised to use a tripod or some kind of a stand while using a shutter speed of slower than 1/60 sec in order to avoid camera shake, which will affect the sharpness of the photo.

ISO in Manual Mode of Vivo V9 Camera

ISO is the sensitivity of your camera to the available light. This means that the lower the ISO number, more light the camera sensor requires to correctly expose the photo. Similarly, the higher the ISO number, less light the camera sensor requires to correctly expose the photo. As you increase the ISO number, the sensitivity of the image sensor increase which leads to noise/grains in the image.

The Vivo V9 camera app allows you to manually adjust the ISO value to as low as ISO 50 and as high as ISO 3200.

When you double the ISO number while using the manual mode on your mobile camera app, the light required by camera reduces by half. Similarly, if you reduce the ISO number by half, the light required gets doubles in order to correctly expose the photo.

In simple language, when you want more light in your photo, increase the ISO and when you want to reduce the amount of light entering your camera, reduce the ISO number. Suppose you are clicking a photo handheld using a shutter speed of 1/100 sec but your photos are coming dark while using ISO 100, all you have to do is increase the ISO number in order to let in more light.

Another example is when you want to click a long exposure using a tripod, make sure that you set your ISO at minimum number available in your camera app in order to avoid grains and to let in less light so that the shutter speed can be reduced to capture a long exposure.

But, there is an ISO range up to which a specific mobile phone camera performs well and it usually ranges from ISO 50 to ISO 400, beyond which you will start noticing grains in your photos.

Lower ISO number = More light required = You will have to use lower shutter speed  = Less grains Higher ISO number = Less light required = You will have to use faster shutter speed = More grains White Balance in Manual Mode of Vivo V9 Camera

The purpose of adjusting the white balance is to get the colors in the photo as accurate as possible. Different light sources have their own color temperature, a tungsten light source would add yellowing color cast to the photo whereas a fluorescent light source would add a bluish color cast.

The color cast being captured in a photo might not be visible to us as our eyes adapt themselves to adjust as per the light source, but the camera might fail to do so in auto white balance mode. This is the reason why it is important to understand how the light source will affect your white balance and how you can counter it by selecting apt white balance.

The Vivo V9 does not have the color temperature range in the professional mode, but it comes with white balance temperature presets such as Daylight, Cloudy, etc using which you can easily adjust the white balance in your frame.

Focus in Manual Mode of Vivo V9 Camera

The manual mode in Vivo V9 smartphone allows you to manually focus on the subject, but you must be wondering why should we focus manually?

In various situations such as in low light conditions, the smartphone camera can struggle to focus on the subject correctly. So in order to ensure that your subject is well in focus, you can switch to manual focusing by tapping on the Focus tab. Once you are in manual focus mode, make sure to tap on Focus peaking text appearing on the top right corner and ensure it says ‘Focus Peaking On’.

Now simply adjust the focus scale until the outline of the subject starts appearing in red, it means that your subject is well in focus.

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The post Vivo V9 Camera Manual Mode: Introduction to Professional Mode appeared first on .

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Long exposure landscape photographs are some of the most diverse, memorable and beautiful we can create. This type of photograph is notoriously difficult to perfect, but those who can, are able to produce some epic and magnificent shots. Long exposure photography enables us to capture movement and transform mundane objects and scenes into something completely different.

What you can see with your naked eye, and what a long exposure photograph can capture are often extremely different. You may see a small fast-running river with a strong current for example, but a long exposure photograph could transform that fast-flowing water into one fluid and silky smooth element. If you can master this type of photography, you are opening yourself up to a whole new world of creative possibilities. To help, we have produced a guide on how to capture long exposure landscapes, enjoy!

Step 1 – Gathering the right equipment

Long exposure photography is not something you can easily create without the correct equipment. In most scenarios, you can simply take your camera into the great outdoors and maybe attached a couple of different lenses – this will not suffice for long exposure landscape photography if you wish to create pristine results. The following equipment is essential:

– A stable and durable tripod;
– A shutter remote control;
– A wide angle lens.

As you can see the equipment list is short and sweet. A tripod is absolutely vital to ensure stability and no camera movement. Long exposure shots open your camera shutter for a number of seconds – it is virtually impossible to keep your camera perfectly still during this time period by hand. A tripod ensures that there is no movement and that you get a crisp and clear shot.

A shutter remote control furthers the stability of your long exposure shot – instead of pressing the camera shutter button you can use the remote control and never have to touch the camera. Finally, a wide angle lens will provide you with a beautiful sweeping shot and will allow you to capture more of the landscape. A wide angle lens is not essential, but it will certainly allow you a greater level of creative control.

Step 2 – Choosing a suitable subject

Now that you have gathered your equipment, you can consider what landscape you want to photograph. It is important to remember that not all landscapes are suitable for long exposure shots. Remember that long exposure shots capture and amplify movement – if there is no movement in your landscape, the long exposure effect will have little impact. The following landscape types create some stupendous effects:

– Beaches (long exposure waves/sea is simply gorgeous);
– Rivers/Lakes/Streams (you can create a beautiful smooth glassy effect in the water);  
– Rolling fields (fields of swaying grass/corn can look magnificent);
– Any landscape with sweeping clouds (individual clouds can form together to create a blanket);
– Cityscapes with traffic (the vehicle headlights can create awesome smooth trails).

These are just a handful of examples – the world is packed full of suitable landscapes that are perfect for long exposure shots. The main point to remember, however, is that movement is key. Other things to consider are the weather, the angle and the positioning of your shot. Some of the best long exposure shots we have seen for example have dark cloudy skies or a blanket of rain and snow!

Whatever you choose as your subject, be sure to perform a little reconnaissance and think carefully about how your long exposure shot will work.

Step 3 – Taking the photo

Equipment – check. Location – check. Now you can actually take your long exposure photo. This type of photograph requires full manual control of your camera as you must alter the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO – we suggest switching to manual mode on your DSLR to give you the greatest amount of flexibility.

As your shutter will remain open for a long period of time, the aperture has to be reduced accordingly otherwise the photo will be flooded with light. In essence, you must try and find a suitable balance between exposure time and aperture that gives you a desirable end result. We suggest an ISO setting of 100 to provide the least amount of noise and an aperture of between f/8 – f/16. These settings should create a clear photo with little distortion and a suitable depth of field for your chosen landscape.

Unfortunately, we cannot provide a guideline for the shutter-speed/exposure time. This is something you will have to simply figure out with trial and error. We advise setting your first shutter speed to 5 seconds – use this as your benchmark and see what the final result is. You can then either decrease or increase the shutter speed to alter the exposure effect. Slower shutter speeds will create a smoother effect but will also become progressively lighter. The beauty of long exposure photography is that you can simply keep taking photos – play with the camera settings until you find an end-result you are happy with!   

Step 4 – Post-processing

By now you have taken some magnificent long exposure photos – the hard work is nearly over! It is now time to get back to your computer and do some post-processing. Consider using a post-processing program such as Photoshop or Luminar that allows you to edit RAW files and alter parameters such as the white balance and color strength.

Long exposure shots should not need a huge amount of editing – providing you have set your camera correctly and used the equipment listed, your end product should already be pretty awesome! You can, however, make these photos even more unique and marvelous with a few simple tweaks. Consider playing with the color saturation to make a sunset more vivid for example. Alternatively, consider altering the white balance to provide a different lighting effect. As this type of photo already looks slightly unnatural, you can really go to town on your editing and create a jaw-dropping landscape photo.

We hope you have found this guide useful – long exposure photography allows a photographer to let their creative side loose and truly experiment with landscape compositions. We wholeheartedly suggest trying out your own long exposure skills and seeing what magnificent affects you can create!

Guest Post by Max Therry:

Max Therry is an architecture student who is fond of photography and wants to become a professional photographer. He is also working on his photography blog about photo editing, modern photo trends, and inspiration. Feel free to reach him by .

The post How to Capture Long Exposure Landscapes appeared first on .

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As a beginner photographer, you might be making some photography mistakes which you must stop for your own good. It is very important for a photography enthusiast to be aware of some of the common mistakes that he/she might be making unintentionally.

This is the reason I thought of share 7 such mistake that you as a beginner might be making, and how you can let go of them. If you click photos using either a smartphone or a digital camera, this post is a must-read for you.

1. Always clicking photos from Eye-level

As a photographer, you get so used to always shooting from eye-level that you stop experimenting. Have you ever realized that hundreds of other people would have also clicked the same frame from the same height?

Be creative, spend 5-10 seconds thinking about the frame before you start clicking photos. Bend down and get low with your camera, raise your hands above and take a top angle shot. This might be a minor change in your style of photography, but trust me you would start clicking creative photos just by changing the level.

Also Read: HOW TO PLAN YOUR FIRST DSLR CAMERA

2. Shoot Wide, Crop Later

Sometimes when you are lazy or are not in a mood of getting closer to a subject, you simply shoot a wider frame thinking that you would crop it later. Sounds relaxing right? This is one of the biggest mistakes that you are making while clicking photos.

If you shoot wide and later plan to crop the photo, remember that you are loosing out on the pixel count and shallowness of depth of field.

It is always better to fill the frame with that is required. If you follow this rule you would get two major benefits. First, you get the full pixel count of the camera sensor as you would not be cropping the photo later. Second, the depth of field that you would get would be much shallower as compared to the wider frame. As a bonus, the perspective would also be a lot different and be complimenting when you get closer to the subject and shoot.

3. Always Place the Subject at the Center

While clicking portraits or a close-up shot, you tent to place the subject at the center of the frame. It looks good when placed at the center, but have you ever tried the Rule of thirds? If you start following the rule, you will realize that when you are placing your subject off-center the frame looks more eye-catching.

There is a tried and tested rule, and one of the reasons why many professionals still use the Rule of Thirds. Be it landscape photography or portraits, this composition tip will surely help you improve your photography.

4. Always Shooting at Lowest Aperture Value

If you own a 50mm f/1.8 or any prime lens that allows you to go as wide as f/2.8, f/1.8, f/1.4, or f/1.2, then you would relate to this mistake. Always shooting at the lowest aperture value might be useful for you sometimes, but in many situations, it could be a blunder.

If you are not an expert at clicking portraits or a close-up shot, you might witness partial blur effect on your subject. The reason for this is a very shallow depth of field because you are shooting at low aperture value.

To get a well-balanced depth of field, try and shoot at an aperture value 1-1.5 stops higher than the lowest aperture value. for example, try clicking photos using your 50mm f/1.8 lens at f/2.8. Now when you compare the f/1.8 photo with the f2.8 photo, you will see that the latter has a well-balanced depth of field as well as more sharpness.

5. Using Auto ISO

As a beginner photographer, you might be click photos in aperture priority or shutter priority mode with ISO set to auto. Take my advice and stop doing so right away, especially in low-lit conditions.

While you are shooting in semi-automatic modes, the camera tends to increase the ISO, especially in low-light conditions. Your camera does this in order to keep a balanced shutter speed and aperture combination. In this situation, your camera might boost up the ISO to a range where you start getting grainy and noisy photos.

In order to keep your photos clear, sharp and grain-free, set the ISO to manual. As a photographer start taking charge of some of the camera settings, as the auto settings might mess up your photo. Practice and few mistakes here and there would eventually make you a well-learned photographer.

6. Exposing for Shadows

Buildings, monuments, and sunset photos are some of the favorite types of photos that you as a photographer might love shooting. Usually, when your frame has the subject along with a well-lit sky, you might end up clicking a blown out sky. This is a frustrating situation, and trust me I have gone through the same.

Later when you come home and start editing that photo, you try to recover the detail from the highlights but fail to do so. There is an obvious reason why you are not successfully able to recover detail from highlights.

Your camera sensor is of such a nature that it can recover details from shadow easily as compared highlights. This is the reason why you should be taking exposure readings of the bright section of your frame, recompose your frame and then click a photo. This ensures that the details are correctly captured in the highlight area, and you can easily recover details from the shadow region during post-processing.

7. Not Using Available Natural Props

When you are outdoors shooting at a park or any open area, you tend to forget a very important aspect of photography. A photographer must always be aware of his/her surroundings and make the best use of naturally available props.

You might be so busy shooting your subject that you simply ignore the props such as leaves, flowers, etc, which can add interest to your photos. Next time when you are shooting outdoors, try using the available props and include then fully or partially to get creative photos.

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The post 7 Beginner Photography Mistakes You Must Avoid and Solutions appeared first on .

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Huawei P20 Pro is the first smartphone to feature triple-rear camera setup. The first and the main camera is a 40-megapixel f/1.8 RGB sensor which is 1/1.7 inch in size. This is one of the biggest image sensors in a smartphone as of now, with a pixel size of up to 2 micron.

The second camera on the Huawei P20 Pro has a 20MP f/1.6 Monochrome sensor which works with the first camera to capture more details and texture in a photo. Both these cameras also work together to product bokeh effect when used in portrait mode.

The third camera features an 8MP f/2.4 image sensor which allows 3X optical zoom and 5x hybrid zoom. This 8-megapixel sensor also has OIS (Optical Image Stabilization) which can be used at up to 5x hybrid zoom. While the first two 40-megapixel and 20-megapixel camera sensors feature AIS (Artificial Intelligence Stabilization). Huawei claims that these two cameras on the P20 Pro work really well with AIS, that the OIS was not a necessity.

Huawei P20 Pro : First Triple-Rear Camera Smartphone EXPLAINED - YouTube

How Three Cameras on Huawei P20 Pro Work Together?

So basically, the 40-megapixel RGB sensor captures the colors and the details in the scene. The 20-megapixel monochrome sensor captures the texture and more details, and it also senses the depth in a scene to give bokeh effect.

And finally, the third 8-megapixel sensor is used to optically zoom up to 3x and help in 5x hybrid zoom. The third camera also ensures that the video is stable by using the OIS.

I would also like to highlight some more attractive features in Huawei P20 Pro such as Super Slow Motion video 960fps @ 720p and 240fps @ 1080p. You would also be able to click a 5-second long exposure photo handheld, you do not need a tripod for that.

Do let me know your views about the Huawei P20 Pro triple-rear camera technology in the comment section below.

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The post Huawei P20 Pro: Triple-rear Camera Smartphone Explained appeared first on .

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Removing people or any unwanted elements from a photo can be really time-consuming and might seem difficult in Adobe Photoshop. Trust me when I say that with just some taps and swipes you can remove people from a photo easily. Using the Snapseed Android or iOS app, you can make people disappear within no time.

The Snapseed app is one such app which can let you perform many magical post-processing tasks just like how I have demonstrated in the video shared below. In this video, I am going to show you how to remove people fro a photo using the Snapseed app.

Feel free to share the video if you find it informative.

How to Remove People from Photos using Snapseed App (Hindi) - YouTube

The post How to Remove People from Photos Using Snapseed App appeared first on .

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We all love to capture photos with amazing background blur effect using our DSLR camera, don’t we? If you think that in order to capture photos with shallow depth of field you need to buy expensive lenses, then you must read this post. I am sharing a list of four such camera lenses which cost less than Rs 10,000 and can be used to capture beautiful background blur effect.

1. Nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 or Canon 75-300mm f/4-5.6 Lens

You must be wondering why I am recommending a zoom lens over a prime lens to get background blur effect. As we know, the depth of field depends on three factors out of which two factors are focal length and aperture value. Using the Nikon AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 G lens or the Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III lens allows you to increase the focal length up to 300mm. This enables the camera to capture photos with shallow depth of field/more blur effect.

So even if you are shooting at a focal length between 200mm to 300mm, a combination of this focal length and f/5.6 can give you a good blur effect because of shallow depth of field. The best thing is that these lenses are available under Rs.10,000.

4 Lenses Under Rs.10,000 to Blur Background (Hindi) - YouTube

2. Nikon or Canon 50mm f/1.8 Lens

50mm f/1.8 lens is one of the most famous prime lens used to click photos with good blur effect. Two reasons why it is vastly used is its f/1.8 aperture value and the affordable pricing. Both the Canon EF50MM F/1.8 STM and Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G lenses produce amazing bokeh effect and the 50mm focal length is just perfect for portraits.

These 50mmf/1.8 lenses are lightweight and easy to carry, making them the perfect prime lens to capture photos with shallow depth of field.

The Yongnuo EF YN 50mm F/1.8 lens is also a good alternative for Canon users and is available for almost half the price.

3. Nikon 35mm f/1.8 Lens

The Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G is another great option for Nikon crop-sensor body users. One of the reasons why this lens is on the list is because of its focal length. The Nikon 35mm f/1.8 has a wider angle of view as compared to the 50mm f/1.8 lens, making it ideal for wider shots.

If you shoot group photos or events, want wider focal length in your photos and do not want to compromise on the shallowness depth of field, then go for this lens. This lens by Nikon is also priced under Rs.10,000, making it a budget prime lens.

4. Canon 24mm f/2.8 Lens

The moment you see the Canon EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM you would wonder why is it so small in size. This pancake lens by Canon can easily fit in your jeans pocket and is lightweight too. Unlike Nikon, Canon does not have a budget 35mm lens for crop-sensor camera body users. But I feel 24mm f/2.8 is a great combination of focal length and the aperture value to capture photos with background blur effect.

24mm angle of view is neither telephoto nor too wide, it is a perfect focal length to capture wide shots with shallow depth of field.

The post 4 Camera Lenses Under Rs.10,000 to Blur Background appeared first on .

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These 10 Lightroom Tips and Tricks will help you speed up your editing workflow. Some of these shortcuts, tips, and tricks are less explored and you might not be aware that they exist in Lightroom CC. If you are a beginner, this Lightroom tutorial can help you edit photos faster and better.

10 LIGHTROOM Tips & Tricks You MUST Know (Hindi) - YouTube

The post 10 Lightroom Tips & Tricks You Must Know appeared first on .

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10.or G is a smartphone crafted especially for Amazon India and was launched to target the camera lovers. The 10.or G features 13 MP + 13 MP dual-rear camera setup with f/2.0 and PDAF (phase detection auto focus). The first one is an RGB image sensor while the second one is a monochrome image sensor to capture better details. This dual camera setup also allows you to capture photos with bokeh effect, to get that sweet blur effect in your photos.

The smartphone looks like a fully loaded camera phone on papers, let’s find out if it truly is in real life situation. This is an in-depth camera review of 10.or G smartphone on the basis of various physical and functional aspects.

Camera placement and Handling

Talking about the camera placement on the 10.or G, the camera is placed perfectly at the top center position. One thing I like about this camera position is that even if you are handling the phone from the corners, there are less chances of the camera lens attracting fingerprints on it. It has a slight camera bump, but that can be protected using a mobile cover which is not provided in the box.

The handling on this phone is good, as it does not easily slip out of your hands while clicking photos in landscape/portrait mode. The only issue I have with this phone is the odd placement of the lock key, strangely it is positioned above the volume rocker.

Focusing

The 10.or G rear camera does focus quite fast and accurately, be it in well lit situations or in low light conditions. Honestly, I am quite impressed with the focus speed. Unlike many other smartphones, the 10.or G one detects the focus swiftly without much of focus hunting. The response time is fast and accurate and I hardly got any misfocused shot, except for some situations when the lighting was too low or if the camera to subject distance was very less.

One thing I like about the focusing system on this phone is the focus confirmation alert. When you tap on a subject in the frame, a circle appears with green lines to confirm that the focus has been locked.

I wish the camera app has the option to adjust the exposure as we tap on a subject to focus.

Sharpness and Dynamic Range

This 13 MP shooter does produce sharp photos in well-lit conditions, no doubt about that. As the light starts reducing, the camera starts producing minor grains, but to be honest you can not expect a better low-light photo from a Rs.11000 smartphone. The fact that it allows you to manually select a low ISO value and adjust the exposure compensation between -2 and +2, helps you capture decent photos at night.

Talking about the dynamic range performance, the 10.or G captures the contrast between the highlights and the shadows decently. This helped me click some good photos, where I framed the scene in such a way that it had a building as well as the brightly lit sky.

It’s good that this phone offers the HDR mode, using which the phone internally clicks multiple photos and them merges them into a single photo. This makes the shadows as well as highlights balanced and the dark, as well as the bright part of the frame, gets balanced. Honestly, I personally didn’t like the HDR mode performance as it desaturated the photo completely as shown in the sample below.

Portrait Mode Performance

Talking about one of the key highlighting camera features of 10.or G, the portrait mode does a decent job. While I was clicking photos using this mode in broad daylight, the subject detection worked well. But as the light started reducing the subject detection accuracy started reducing. But honestly, at this price range, the 10.or G portrait mode is one of the best you can get your hands on.

I am most impressed by the feature which allows you to change the focus point and the blur effect strength even after clicking the photo. Now getting something like this in a Rs.11000 smartphone is a great advantage as a photography enthusiast.

I feel that the closest focusing distance could have been better especially while using the camera in portrait mode.

Non-portrait Mode

Portrait Mode

Low light performance

As the 10.or G does not offer the manual mode, I had to click photos in low light conditions using the automatic mode. The noise was a bit on the higher side and the focusing accuracy was average. I somehow feel that the provision of manual mode could have made this an ideal camera phone in this price segment. The aperture opening of f/2.0 does help in getting more light on to the image sensor in low light conditions.

But let’s be practical here, a Rs.11000 phone would not let you capture amazing low light photos. But the 10.or G is one of the smartphones under 10,000 price range that offers some great camera and video features.

Video Performance and Features

One of the most impressive features of this smartphone camera is that it features EIS (electronic image stabilization). This means that you can capture smooth videos at 1080p at 30 fps, using the front as well as the rear camera. Also when you switch off the EIS, you can shoot 1080p videos at 60 fps.

I personally do not think there is any other smartphone in this price range that offers such amazing photo and video features.

Talking about the video performance at 1080p using the rear camera, I found it to be perfect. The fact that you can shoot a video at 60 fps or at 30 fps with EIS is a great pleasure. I tried shooting in EIS as well as non-EIS modes, and yes the difference is huge. the EIS video clip appears smooth while you are walking and shooting a video.

Final Verdict: An Indeal Camera Smartphone?

If you love clicking photos while traveling or even in day-to-day life, this is one of the best camera smartphones in the market priced at Rs.11000. If you use it in well-lit conditions, you would not be disappointed but the results. I wish they introduce some software improvements in future updates to make edge detection in portrait mode much better and accurate.

The video performance especially at 1080p with EIS on is brilliant. If you are looking to buy a good camera smartphone within Rs.11,000 price range, this is one of the ideal choices.

If you are interested in buying the smartphone, you can check out the Amazon page for latest price offering.

The post 10.or G Detailed Camera Review by a Photographer appeared first on .

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Here is a list of SD cards and CF cards which are used in all Canon, Nikon as Sony DSLR and mirrorless cameras. Depending on your use, you can choose the desired memory card for your digital camera from the list shared below.

SanDisk Extreme Pro UHS-I SDHC Memory Card (32 GB – 256 GB) SanDisk Ultra Class 10 UHS-I SDHC Memory Card (16 GB – 128 GB) SanDisk Extreme Pro CompactFlash Memory Card (16 GB – 256 GB)

The post Best CF and SD Memory Cards for DSLR & Mirrorless Camera appeared first on .

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Asus Zenfone 4 Selfie Dual Camera is a smartphone targeted towards the selfie lovers, but I had some other plans while reviewing it. Being a photographer and an old Asus smartphone user, I wanted to test the 16 Megapixel rear camera capabilities of this Zenfone 4 Selfie Dual Camera version (dual-front camera). What’s better than putting the smartphone camera to the low-light test and get to know about its performance.

I decided to visit the Jama Masjid to capture some sunset and after-sunset photos using the Zenfone 4 Selfie camera in auto mode. Before I start talking about its camera performance, I would like to highlight the fact that the smartphone is very lightweight which makes it easy to use while clicking photos.

As I entered the Jama Masjid, the sun had just started setting and it made the ideal situation for me to try my hands on Asus Zenfone 4 Selfie Dual Camera smartphone camera. The photo that you see below is straight out of the camera and I have haven’t edited it at all.

The Colors and Dynamic Range captured by this 16 MP camera is impressive, considering the fact that the available light was not that good. The image below does not have any over-exposed areas, which means that it balances the exposure in the frame quite well. If you look at the sky you would clearly see the blue as well as yellow color tones, which are very well retained by the camera.

Talking about the second image shared below, I switched on the HDR mode to capture the frame as the sun was right behind the structure. Trust me, HDR mode is the trickiest test for any smartphone camera especially when the sun is right behind the subject. The Zenfone 4 Selfie scores a 10/10 here because of the way the software processed the HDR image, making it look natural and well balanced in terms of exposure. I can clearly see the details in both the dark as well as bright areas of the frame.

Another challenging situation I face while clicking photos during sunset is to capture a well-focused photo. The 16 MP PDAF (phase detection auto focus) rear camera sounds impressive on paper, but does it focus accurately in low light conditions was my question. While clicking the photo shown below, I simply raised the phone, framed the scene, and clicked the photo.

Usually, I tap on the screen to focus on the subject and then click a photo to ensure that the focus is locked accurately, but while testing the focusing ability of a smartphone camera I don’t. Zenfone 4 Selfie rear camera again proved to be an ideal smartphone choice for low light photography because of swift and accurate focusing in this condition.

My last test was to click a photo when the sun is completely gone and the moon is taking over the sky. The photo shared below was clicked in auto mode and the camera settings were 1/15 sec and ISO 4500.

My comment on this photo would be that the camera does a decent job in capturing such a photo at such high ISO and slow shutter speed. The focusing is on point, the colors are accurate, and the grains are less compared to some of the other smartphones available in the market in this price range.

If you are impressed by the low light performance of this smartphone camera, you can purchase it from Flipkart: Asus Zenfone 4 Selfie Dual Camera (Black, 64 GB)

The post Low Light Photography with Asus Zenfone 4 Selfie Dual Camera appeared first on .

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