Growing up in Perth, one of the world’s sunniest capital cities required hat designer Lorna Murray to develop a degree of resourcefulness in order to cool down and escape the endless sunshine of the summer months. During her university days as an art school student Lorna used to experiment with making hats and other adornments to deal with the extremities of a hot climate. Early on and to this day Lorna’s inspiration is a balance between traditional and contemporary approaches to design from both east and western cultures. One of Lorna’s biggest loves is the translation of traditional textiles to a contemporary context. It’s the unlimited and exciting potential of two dimensional materials moulded into sculptural hat forms that fuels Lorna’s modern and authentic creativity.
Recently Lorna’s wonderful natural fibre foldable Capri hats were the ‘cherry on top’ of the Pero AW/FW20 collections seen on the runway at Pitti Bimbo 89. We talk with designer Lorna Murray about how the collaboration came about, her creativity and the hats she wears.
Hat designer Lorna Murray enjoying Summer 2019 European vacation en famille!
How did the collaboration happen? It was complete serendipity. Adele Gandola of Pero contacted me after seeing my Capri hats on Instagram. A lovely creative conversation about a collaboration began from there. I have adored the Pero collections over the years so of course when I received an invitation to create the headwear for Pero’s little models I was thrilled!
Who & what inspires you? Eclectic busy environments and global foraging and treasure hunting inspires me. Raw materials and environments with a rich craft based and textile history inspire me. I am definitely a bowerbird and my global travels inspire my imagination and creative practice. I tend to experience the world through a creative lens and this allows me to gain inspiration from everyday life. I am also really inspired by people who want to become good at something and who spend years and years perfecting their craft and being innovative.
Do you wear a hat everyday? Yes I love to wear a hat as often as I can! Primarily to protect my skin from too much sunshine but even in winter I love to have my warm cosy cloche hats and fedoras at the ready. I think hats often make an outfit look complete and then double as fabulous decor accessories at home. I love seeing a collection of natural fibre hats hanging from a wall.
People sometimes say that “hats don’t suit” them. Is there a hat for everyone? Yes absolutely, It’s just a matter of finding your sense of style, just as we do with our choice of jeans our shoes or our handbags. We develop a sense of style and move in that direction and my advice would be that’s it’s about finding a hat which makes you feel great! It could be a sun visor, a wide brim straw hat, one of my natural fibre foldable Capri’s or a little linen fabric hat or woollen beret. The styles and colours are endless. Hats can absolutely be flattering on anyone. You may want to take into account your personal head and face shape. More oval face shapes can look great in wide-brimmed hats as they bring attention outwards. A shorter or smaller face looks great in a shorter brim, a beanie or beret without overwhelming ones features.
Do you keep a diary? Oh yes, I love visual diaries, I keep several going at the same time. Small ones that slide into my handbag, good sized ones with quality paper I can paint in, one beside my bed, another in the car and often my notepads become visual diaries filled with quick scribbles, fabric swatches and notes. It’s sometimes a conundrum working out which one carries particular little sketch, address or note. I also keep a couple of round baskets which I fill with photos, sketches, random notes, observations, cuttings, collages, weave experiments….
Do you procrastinate? Yes I definitely enjoy a dose of procrastination when I have the time and I definitely use it to my benefit. I find some of my best ideas and creative thinking and solving happens during down time. I love daydreaming and taking time out to rest. I see ‘procrastination’ as a really useful tool for brewing thinking and creative problem solving. I find that lots of my peers who are creative professionals also retreat to down time when they are working to resolve a creative project. I definitely find I can be more productive if I have made time to let my mind wander, to consider divergent ideas and to think in nonlinear ways
Do you have a routine for your creativity? The boundaries between my creative career and personal life is always blurred. I think that as a creative your life is quite fluid and less about a formal routine and structure. Creative expression is just part of daily life.
3 tips from your recent travels? Embrace a slower pace and enjoy finding the life of the locals. Always carry a spoon for those impromptu delicious market purchases. I am definitely a free wheeler. Some loose sketchy plans are workable but nothing to scheduled.
What is your preferred style of hat for traveling with? A few hats are always better than one. Foldable over structured, easy to pack and neutral colours.
What matters? Be grateful for the now, this present moment in time and be open to spontaneity. Enjoy the small things. I know it sounds like a cliché but it’s true. Integrity of materials and processes is important to me. I care about where and how things are made and what they are made of.
Date of creation: 10 years ago Country of origin: Paris, France Country (ies) of delivery : Worldwide Name of owner/founder(s): Nathalie Genty Number of employees: Approximately 50
Do you have a physical store (if yes please detail): No, we are an e-commerce site only. Approx number of brands stocked: Over 120!
3 brands/ labels that represent the store:Bonpoint,Tiny Cottons, Gucci – there is something for every mom at Melijoe, whether your little one is big or small or your style is classic, trendy or designer.
Company statement/ philosophy or tag line: Kids love fashion – straight from Paris.
Describe your customer: The Melijoe mom is international, modern and loves fashion. Most of all, she loves sharing her passion for style with her little ones. She’s not afraid to mix boutique, up-and-coming and high-end labels and enjoys exploring fashion with her kids according to their personalities.
What should your customers expect of you: A huge range of choice, inspired and inspirational fashion articles in our magazine section, exciting first-looks and exclusive items and fast, efficient delivery and customer service all around the world.
Product categories (eg clothing / accessories/ home): Children’s clothing and accessories Standard delivery times: All items shipped in under 72h Returns policy: Returns accepted within 28 days
How do customers find offers: Sign up to our newsletters on the website for the latest offers, competitions and news. AND don’t forget to follow us on social @melijoe.paris
If your store was a snack what would it be? La crêpe française – sweet, versatile (you can personalize it as you like!) and always a favourite!
Reading time: 3 minPreview of Playtime Paris #26
Parc Floral de Paris
June 29-July1 2019
Firstly before getting into the article we can confirm that there will be air conditioning at this edition of Playtime Paris! Wonderful news as it’s going to be hot hot hot in Paris…
The ever popular french kid’s fashion and lifestyle trade show this time takes inspiration from a ‘metamorphosis’ theme. Over 500 brands will present their collections with 20% being first-time exhibitors. The commercial director of the show Chantal Danguillaume explained ‘that in the present market the decision was made to reduce the number of collections presenting at the show. This is in an effort ‘to offer each exhibitor better conditions in which to take part and offer each buyer a better visiting experience’. So for this edition the show organisers have curated a slightly reduced number of exhibitors and a show punctuated with more experiences for the visitor and exhibitor.
Refreshments – the cocktail event is as is tradition on the Saturday, whilst on the Sunday you can now join Pirouette and Chris Gambrell to celebrate the completion of his live artwork at the Screencapture exhibition with a refreshing gin and tonic courtesy of Kaoroon Scottish gin – G&T at 5pm.
Playtime is expanding their program of conference talks with five conferences taking place over the three days. Topics range from ‘Building a sustainable fashion business’ to ‘How to protect your creative work’.
There’s a focus on art with a number of exhibitions to check out at the show. Starting with the Kid’s wear Magazine’s photo exhibition ‘From inhale to drop out’ – the perfect transformation from one state to another. Pirouette’s Screen Capture exhibition this time features fashion Illustrator Chris Gambrell’s live artwork exploring the metamorphosis from ‘child to fashionista’.
It’s always good to spot a new discovery at The New Now Space and this season Playtime introduce the Playground spaces #1 & #2 dedicated to a number of workshops check out the events schedule here
As always lots to see and do at this the 26th edition of Playtime Paris.
Editors notes: After Pitti I recommend a couple of SS20 collection’s to check out that can also be found here at Playtime: Firstly our One to Watch collection SS20 winners at Pitti Bimbo 89: Yellowpelota so many beautiful pieces. Cherry papaya some interesting cuts on light summer jackets, Hanah & Tiff the yellow jacket is a must for SS20, Velveteen’s tulle purple skirt is statement show stopper. Make sure to check it out my lovely friend and colleague’s Scimparello x KiSSe fab collaboration… there’s also so much more to discover. Looking forward to it!
Summer has finally arrived with Pitti Bimbo 89. There was a location change to the show i.e The Kid’s lab. under the warm Florence sun the vibrant energy of Il Gufo’s Secret Garden runway stole our hearts, short fringing and muppet reference trends caught our eye as did the must have hat of the summer by designer Lorna Murray.
As always the Pitti calendar was packed full of fun events, but it took a while to get used to the new layout. Changes to some of the brand locations and the new additions to the Apartment really worked with lots of smiling faces :-) The feedback from buyers was that they liked the revised Kid’s lab area, the improved light was good for looking at the collections and the air-conditioning visitor friendly.
With buyers and press no longer able to rely on their acquired knowledge they found themselves going off-piste to find their preferred brand’s locations, meaning they had the opportunity to discover new favourites. I on the other hand due to a mix of time constraints and a little confusion missed quite a few of my staple brands though I’ll be sure to catch up with them during the rest of show season.
The labels seemed happy with the new location though some would have preferred the possibility to present their own branding on the stands which was restricted this edition when compared to previous seasons.
The Pitti runway shows were energetic and fun. The Il Gufo show stole our hearts and the beautiful hats accompanying Pero’s appearance on the Apartment runway became the most covetable hit of the Summer.
Whilst Moda Portugal’s debut runway show at Pitti produced a buzz for the participating labels after two long days of taking in the show it was time for the Pitti Summer Party jam packed as it was with dancing and a very long Conga line made up of exhibitors, buyers and press alike… The Italian’s sure know how to throw a party!
Muppet Muse: All I could think of when seeing the rail backstage at the Children’s Fashion from Spain runway show was the Love Magazine Muppet editorial which I absolutely love. Multi coloured mayhem and in my view rather wonderful.
LOVE Magazine Muppets Editorial Behind the scenes at Children’s Fashion from Spain, short fringing Amaya & feathers Tuc Tuc Apocalypto kids, colourful embellishment. Mummy Moon, feathers.
Mini-me Villanelle: Scary and cool in equal measure what’t not to like, super editorial looks.
Villanelle in the famous pink tulle Molly Goddard dress. Sasha Kim Gucci Kids
Best of the Yellows: It’s the colour of the season and comes in many sunny guises…
Il Gufo: The Secret Garden stole our heart with it’s vibrant energy. The production was enchanting, the music upbeat and rather wonderful.
Moda Portugal Show: First time for a mulit-brand Portuguese runway show. Cherrypapaya was fun fresh with the boys collection standing out. The cut of the boys T-shirts and prints was chic and eye catching in equal measure. UK model Sadie Thwaits shone bright in her yellow dress floating ethereally down the runway clutching a bunch of beautiful balloons reminiscent of Up. Show stealer!
Manila Grace: This show was a wonderful suprise, packed full of fun with the kids and some really nice pieces diffused from the adult collection.
Children’s Fashion from Spain (Icex): Bright, bold, feathers…
Apartment: Always a beautifully produced show, Pero was on great form – and that hat! Velveteen’s purple tulle skirt stood out and the Amelie & Sophie shapes capturing our attention.
Monnalisa:Italian fashion in a beautiful setting. Victoria’s Secret super model Alessandra Ambrosio’s daughter was walking in the show producing quite a buzz.
Summer Knitwear for kids is difficult for some to understand but the secret is the designer’s knowledge and understanding of knitwear design. Mabli have designed the perfect Summer knitwear pieces for babies through to kids using linen and cotton. The knit gauge of the jumpsuit is so light with extra drape in the drop crotch designed to not show nappies ;-) Think Courtney Adamo’s kids in Byron Bay rocking this Summer knit jumpsuit, I can just see it. These summer knits work for warm climates and we are advocates!
Warm colours and cool collage prints, beautiful SS20 collection. Also with a cotton summer hand knit selection. Really lovely pieces.
Mix of french chic with Peruvian influences, really liked this one!
Pirouette One to Watch Awards Pitti Bimbo 89
One To Watch Label – Banabae
All the way from Australia and the first time at the show exhibiting in The Nest. Groovy, sustainable retro print bedding and vintage inspired swaddle cloths. Talking with the press we all said the same thing, please can you do adult sheets! When you see these you need them….absolutely our One to Watch Label SS20 at Pitti Bimbo 89. Congratulations!
This season we are celebrating the cherished and beloved as well as the new with the introduction of the One to Watch Collection. The Yellowpoleta SS20 collection is worthy of our One to Watch for sure. It’s beautiful but with a twist or ‘clash’ as the designer is calling it. The prints are fresh and beautiful and styling looks very strong. Obviously in a gorgeous Yellowpelota way. Really love this collection! Congratulations!
Editors Notes: Show stats to be added when confirmed.
For more on the brands, runway, interviews at the show go to the Pirouette Pitti Bimbo 89 Video Diary.
A proposed levy of 1p per garment on newly sold clothes items has been dismissed by UK ministers. The Environmental audit committee (EAC) had recommended the plan in order to raise £35 million for helping to reduce the impact of fast fashion which sees 300,000 tonnes of clothing destroyed each year.
The UK government said in a statement only that they could consider the plan by 2025.
According to EAC’s report Fixing Fashion – published on the 19 February 2019 “global apparel consumption could rise by 63%, from 62 million tons today to 102 million tons — the equivalent to more than 500 billion additional T-shirts.”
A Drapers recent survey of 370 fashion brands, retailers and suppliers reported:
85% thought the government was not doing enough to help the fashion industry become more sustainable.
69% supporting the 1p a garment charge.
60% said the main barrier to becoming more sustainable is that it drives up costs
36% saying shoppers are unwilling to pay for sustainable fashion.
Pitti Bimbo 89’s theme is “Special Click” – that moment of spark, the catalyst to success, the X factor. There’s big changes in location to KidzFIZZ, ACTIVELAB, The Nest, EcoEthic and Kid’s Evolution… with all five areas relocating to the top level of The Main Pavilion under the new project THE KIDS LAB – “A platform for all expression of experimental kidswear” says Pitti. It will be interesting to see how the new space will work for both exhibitors and buyers. Also new is Emporio Armani junior who will be presenting their collection for the first time at the show.
There will be runway shows from Nature Angel, Manila Grace, Stefania and Children’s Fashion from Spain (Abel & Lula, Amaya, Boboli, Mayoral, Tuc Tuc) with the addition of Kid’s MODAPORTUGAL (Laranjinha, Knot, Phi Clothing, Cherry Papaya, Patachou, Play Up)
Don’t miss Kid’s Wear Magazine exhibition in the Central Pavilion. Join the team in checking out the new FUJIFILM instax cameras! On the Friday acclaimed photographer & Kid’s Wear Magazine publisher Achim Lipoth will be there to snap your picture for a limited time only between 10-11 am.
Italian superstar of kidswear for over 50 years – Monnalisa are set to produce another unmissable runway event on Thursday 20th June.
Make sure to check out the KID’S Evolution area – fashion from grown up collections transformed to Mini Me pieces. The project is curated by Alessandro Enriguez, and was really strong last season. The Apartment sees some wonderful new editions. Not to be missed is the colourful and creative collection from Tia Cibani Kids, the Wabi-sabi style intricate collection by Anja Schwerbrock, and the bold bright fashion led style of The Middle Daughter.
In Kid’s design and lifestyle make sure to check out Unduetrestella’s curated selection. Their recent show at Milano design week was packed full of interesting discoveries.
One to Watch Awards
The Pirouette One to Watch Awards celebrate the cherished and beloved, as well as the new with a slight change to the awards from previous years. One to Watch ‘Label’ (eligible to young labels) and One to Watch ‘Collection’ (eligible to established labels – fashion, toys, design, accessories).
Lapin and Me’s woodland doll receives a gilded makeover transforming into “CHARMY” the much covetable SS20 One to Watch Award.
After the collections, events and excitement make sure to savour this edition at The Special Click Party held Thursday evening.
Pitti Bimbo Video Diary 89
Finally, click online at www.pirouetteblog.com to follow our Pitti Bimbo 89 Video Diary for interviews, runway, etc etc.
Pitti Bimbo 89 | 20-22 June 2019
The world of childrenswear meets in Florence
A complete overview of children’s fashions, an extraordinary platform for presenting the new lifestyle trends for kids.