Loading...

Follow LillaBjorn's Crochet World on Feedspot

Continue with Google
Continue with Facebook
or

Valid
Welcome to last part of April Showers Mandala crochet make-a-long. Today we’ll add second lace border to our mandala and frame it with a tiny edging.

Translations:
 Nederlands - vertaald door Carmen Jorissen (New Leaf Designs)  

PART 2 can be found HERE



INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

On next rounds continue with C4.

Round 25: Turn and continue on WS! First FPdc is made around ch3 below.

Ch2 (not a st), [13FPdc, FPdc3tog around next 3 sts, 13 FPdc, (dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp] x8, join with ss in first FPdc, turn, ss in next FPdc, ss in next ch2-sp – 26 FPdc, 1 FPdc3tog and 2 dc on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 26: Continue on RS. Make ch5 and 1dc in same ch2-sp as join instead of first (dc, ch2, dc) – for all rounds up to Round 29.

[(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, *ch3, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, ch3, skip 2 sts, dc in next st* x4, ch3, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, ch3, skip 2 sts] x8, join with ss in first sp – 6 dc, 5 sc and 10 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 27: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, dc in next dc* x5, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss of prev round, join with ss in first sp – 18 dc and 17 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 28: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, *ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next st* x5, ch1, dc in next dc, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss of prev round, join with ss in first sp – 10 dc, 5 sc, 4 ch1-sps and 10 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 29: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, *ch1, dc in next dc* x3, *ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, dc in next dc* x5, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss of prev round, join with ss in first sp – 22 dc and 21 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 30: Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same sp, ch3, skip dc+sp+dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, *ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next st* x5, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip dc+sp+dc, sc in next ch2-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp – 6 dc, 9 sc and 14 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 31: First sc is made in same ch2-sp as join.

Ch1 (not a st), [sc in next ch2-sp, ch1, skip sc, sc in next sp, ch2, skip sc, sc in next sp, ch1, *ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, dc in next dc* x4, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, *ch2, sc in next sp* x2, ch1, skip sc] x8, join with ss in first sc – 14 dc, 4 sc, 4 ch2-sps and 15 ch1-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner

Round 32: First dc is made in same st as join.

Ch2 (not a st), [dc in next st (mark as corner), dc in next sp, dc in next st, *2dc in next sp, dc in next st* x2,*dc in next sp, dc in next st* x13 (or 26 dc), *2dc in next sp, dc in next st* x2, dc in next sp] x8, join with ss in first dc (change to C5, cut C4) – 41 dc on each side, 1 dc in each corner

Round 33: Turn and continue on WS. With C5. Ch1 (not a st), skip ch2 below, FPdc around each st around, join with ss in first FPdc, turn – 336 FPdc

Round 34: Continue on RS. First tr4tog will be ch3 and 3tr in same st as ss.

Ss in next st, [tr4tog in next st, ch3, tr4tog in next st, skip 3 sts, sc in next st, *ch3, skip 2 sts, sc in next st* x11, skip 2 sts, tr4tog in next st, ch3] x8, join with ss in first tr4tog (change to C2, cut C5) – 2 tr4tog, 12 sc and 13 ch3-sps on each side, 1 tr4tog in each corner

Round 35: First sc is made in same st as join.

With C2. Ch1 (not a st), [1sc in next tr4tog, ch2, dc4tog in next sp, ch2, dc in next tr4tog, ch1, dc in next sc, sc in next sp, *ch3, sc in next sp* x10, dc in next sc, ch1, dc in next tr4tog, ch3, dc4tog in next sp, ch2] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C3, cut C2) – 2 dc4tog, 4 dc, 11 sc, 4 ch2-sps, 2 ch1-sps and 10 ch3-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner

Round 36: With C3. First dc3tog will be ch2 and 2dc in same sc.

[dc3tog in next sc, ch2, dc3tog in next sp, ch2, skip dc4tog, 3dc in next sp, dc in next dc, dc in next sp, dc in next dc, skip sc, sc in next sp, *ch3, sc in next sp* x9, skip sc, dc in next dc, dc in next sp, dc in next dc, 3dc in next sp, ch2, dc3tog in next sp, ch2] x8, join with ss in first dc3tog – 2 dc3tog, 12 dc, 10 sc, 4 ch2-sps and 9 ch3-sps on each side, dc3tog in each corner

Round 37: Continue with C3. First picot is made in same dc3tog as join. Omit first ss.

[ss in next dc3tog, picot, ch3, ss in next dc3tog, picot, ch3, sc in next sp, ch3, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, ch3, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, *ch3, dc in next sp, ch3, sc in next sp* x4, ch3, dc in next sp, ch3, skip sc, sc in next st, ch3, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, ch3, skip 2 sts, sc in next sp, ch3, ss in next dc3tog, picot, ch3] x8, join with ss in first picot, fasten off. Block Mandala.

Congratulations! Your April Showers Madnala is now finished!

Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
 
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.

Read Full Article
  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 
Summer is approaching Brno and it’s time to think colorful and summery. Brand new issue of Scheepjes YARN book-a-zine is out now. And it’s probably one of my favourite editions. It’s called Reef, inspired by corals and sea.

YARN book-a-zine is a precious Scheepjes baby published twice a year. It combines magazine look and book feel: high quality pictures and styling, thick and matt paper, gorgeous designs.

Reef issue contains 17 (!) crochet and knitting patterns (on 100 pages) perfect for both beginners and advanced crafters: blankets, shawls, pillows, garments, toys and even jewelry! And it also introduces to a variety of crochet techniques (have you tried mosaic crochet already?).

This issue is brimming with color and projects to feed your busy hands. It’s been inspired by green kelp forests, floating jellyfish, clusters of coral and breaking waves on the sands.

My contribution to Reef was a project a bit out of my comfort zone. I was asked to make a shawl with motifs that could remind anemones. Using Whirl* and Whirlette* yarns. Designing a motif was very easy, but their joining gave me a lot of thinking.

Add Anemones Shawlette to your Ravelry Queue

Luckily I met Rachele (of Cypress Textiles) nearly at the same time when I was working on Anemones Shawlette. She is a genius of motif designs and she can probably put any possible and impossible shapes together. We gave a little brain storm together at Scheepjes bloggers Days, and as a result my cute and colorful anemones were joined with a continuous join, yay! And it means almost no ends to weave in!

My personal favourites from Reef YARN book-a-zine are Seawell blanket “designed by a dad for dads and their little ones” (by Martin Up North). And this is probably not a surprise, as I am a bit obsessed with mosaic crochet myself. My plan is to put hands on this project and maybe to make a pillow in very calm and muted colors using Metropolis yarn*.

And my another favourite is a Staghorn Necklace designed by Carmen of New Leaf Designs. This is such a delicate and detailed jewelry piece, tastefully decorated with tiny beads. Not something that I could make myself, as I am not good at working with small hook. But I can imagine this necklace would make a fantastic accent to any festive outfit.

As all other YARN book-a-zines, Reef introduces work of two artists. Courtney Mattison who creates enormous ceramic installations showing the mysterious beauty of wonderful species, raising awereness of the threat of extinction to coral reefs. And textile artist Vanessa Barragao, who uses wool – salvaged from textile industry leftovers – to create beautiful wall and floor tapestries often several meters in length and height, representing the ocean’s impressive underwater world.

You can see all designs from REEF on Ravelry. Take a look and grab your copy in your local Scheepjes shop, or via online retailers (affiliate links below):

Wool Warehouse, Deramores (all in UK with international shipping),
Caro’s Atelier (NL, Europe; you can also purchase ready yarn packs to make some of the Reef projects)
Taemombo (Canada & US), Knotty House (Canada)

Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.

Read Full Article
  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 
Welcome to Part 2 of April Showers Mandala crochet make-a-long. Today we will be shaping cetral overlay medallion into a beautiful spring flower. I’ve made a silly mistake with my sample mandala. Can you spot it? :)


Translations:
 Nederlands - vertaald door Carmen Jorissen (New Leaf Designs)  

Part 1 can be found HERE
 


INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
 
On next rounds continue with C1.

Note: for easy counts, mark ch2-sps in the corners (you’ll have 8 corners in total)

Round 18: With C1. Make ch5 and 1dc in same st/ch2-sp as join instead of first (dc, ch2, dc) – for all rounds up to round 24.

[(dc, ch2, dc) in next st, *ch1, skip 1 st, dc in next st] x2, ch3, skip 2 sts, 2sc, ch3, skip 2 sts, 1dc, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc, ch1, skip 1 st] x 8, join with ss in first sp – 6 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch1-sps and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 19: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, pc in next dc, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in each of next 2 sc, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, pc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 10 dc, 2 pc and 10 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 20: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, dc in next dc, ch3, skip sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip dc and sp, dc in next pc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch2, 1sc in each of next 2dc, ch2, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next pc, ch3, skip sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 8 dc, 4 sc, 4 ch1-sps, 4 ch3-sps and 2 ch2-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 21: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, skip dc and sp, pc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, 1dc in each of next 2 sc, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, ch1, pc in next dc, ch1, skip sp and dc] x 8, join with ss in first sp – 12 dc, 2 pc, 12 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 22: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, dc in next dc, ch1, dc in next pc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, 1sc in each of next 2 dc, 1sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next pc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 8 dc, 6sc, 4 ch1-sps and 6 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 23: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, ch1, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and sc, 1sc in each of next 2 sc, ch3, skip next sc and sp, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, skip next sp and dc] x8, join with ss in first sp – 12 dc, 2 sc, 2 ch3-sps and 10 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 24: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, dc in next dc, *dc in next sp, dc in next dc* until ch3-sp, 2dc in next ch3-sp, dc2tog over next 2 sc, 2dc in next ch3-sp, dc in next dc, *dc in next sp, dc in next dc* until next ch2-sp in the corner] x8 making last dc in joining ss of prev round, join with ss in first sp (change to C4, cut C1) – 28 dc and 1dc2tog on each side, ch2-sps in each of 8 corners

Next week we will add another lace part and edging border. And your April Showers Mandala will be finished!

Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.
Read Full Article
  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 
Hello and welcome in April Showers Mandala crochet make-a-long. Today we will be making central medallion in overlay crochet. Hope you will enjoy!
Translations:
 Nederlands - vertaald door Carmen Jorissen (New Leaf Designs)  

Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
 Materials:Scheepjes Stone Washed in 5 colors (78% Cotton, 22% Acrylic, 50g/130m/142yrds)

Note: depending on your gauge and crochet style you might need more or less yarn!

4mm (G) crochet hook
Yarn needle to weave in tails, stitch markers or waste yarn, blocking tools

Stone Washed yarn is available in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers (affiliate links are marked with *. I might be compensated with a tiny amount if you make a purchase via these links while you will not pay anything extra):

Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo* (US and Canada), Knotty House* (Canada)


Gauge:After 5 rounds circle measures 10cm/4” across.

Size:The size of the finished mandala will depend on yarn and hook you use. My mandala is approx. 70cm/27.5” large measured from point to point.

Abbreviations (US crochet terms)
BL back loop
ch chain stitch
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
lp(s) loop(s)
RS right side
sc single crochet
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
yo yarn over the hook
prev previous
WS wrong side

Stitch Guidedc3tog (double crochet 3 together): *yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook.
dc4tog (double crochet 4 together): *yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.
FPdc (front post double crochet): yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops* twice.
FPtr (front post treble crochet): yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times.
FPdtr (front post double treble): yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble crochet 2 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
FPtr3tog (front post treble crochet 3 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
tr4tog (treble crochet 4 together): *yo twice, insert the hook into the hole at the bottom of stitch just made, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice*4 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.

Special Stitches:pc (popcorn): *yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* 5 times in same st, drop lp from hook, insert hook from front to back through top of first dc made, place dropped lp on hook and pull through st.
Picot – ch3, ss in first ch.

Punctuation:Square Brackets [ ] and asterisks ** indicate repeats. You will need to repeat the instructions between parentheses the amount of times specified.
Parentheses ( ) indicate a group of sts to be worked into the same st/sp. Parentheses also indicate additional notes.

Pattern Notes:
  • April Showers Mandala is worked in rounds on RS unless otherwise stated in the pattern.
  • Rounds are joined with ss in first ch-sp/st (unless otherwise stated in the pattern)
  • Color is changed in joining ss. Don’t cut the yarn at the end of the round, but instead carry it up to next rounds on WS. Don’t pull too much. You’ll have small floats of yarn on the WS. If you want to get rid of floats, please feel free to cut yarn after every round.

INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

Color key: C1 – 814 Crystal Quartz (45g – 1 skein), C2 – 801 Moon Stone (15g – 1 skein), C3 – 805 Blue Apatite (30g – 1 skein), C4 – 813 Amazonite (75g – 2 skeins),
C5 – 802 Smokey Quartz (35g – 1 skein)

Round 1: With C1. Make magic ring, ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), 16dc into ring, tighten ring, join with ss in first dc (change to C2) – 16 dc

Round 2: With C2. Work sc in BL. [Ch2, sc in same st, 2sc] x8, join with ss in first ch2-sp (change to C1 by grabbing it up behind work, cut C2) – 24 sc, 8 ch2-sps

Round 3: With C1. First dc is made in same sp as join.
Ch2 (not a st), [1dc in next sp, 3dc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first dc (change to C3, cut C1) – 32 dc

Round 4: Note: for a neater result make first FPtr around indicated st and then make 2 tr into the loop formed at the base of the first leg.

With C3. [Ch2, sc in same st, 3FPtr around central sc of Round 2 between two sps, skip 3 sts on Round 3 behind 3 FPtr just made, sc in next st] x8 making last sc in same sc as first sc, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 5 sts on each of 8 sides, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 5: With C4. Ch2 (not a st), [2dc in ch2-sp, 5dc] x8, join with ss in first dc (change to C3) – 56 dc

Round 6: First sc is made in next st after join.

With C3. [Ch2, don’t skip sts, 2sc (BL), FPtr around first of 3 FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st behind FPtr (here and throughout), 1sc (BL), FPtr around third FPtr of same 3 FPtr below, skip 1 st, 2sc (BL)] x8 making last sc in same st as join of prev round, join with ss in first sp (change to C2) – 56 sts, 8 ch2-sps

Round 7: Note: for a neater result make FPtr in same way as on Round 4.

With C2. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same sp, 2sc (BL), 3FPtr around central FPtr from 3 rounds below, skip 3 sts, 2sc (BL), 1sc in next sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 72 sts, 8 ch2-sps

Round 8: With C4. [Ch2, skip sp, 9sc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C3) – 72 sts, 8 ch2-sps

Round 9: With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same sp, ch3, FPtr around FPtr of same color below, skip 3 sts, 3sc (BL), FPtr around FPtr of same color below, ch3, skip 3 sts, sc in next ch2-sp (change to C4) – 7 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 10: With C4. [Ch3, skip sp, sc (BL) in next st, 1dc in each of 2 sts of same color from 2 rounds below – in front of chains, skip sp behind dc just made, 5sc (BL), 1dc in each of 2 sts of same color from 2 rounds below – in front of chains, skip sp, sc (BL) in last sc before ch2-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C2) – 11 sts on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 11: With C2. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same ch3-sp, ch6, FPtr around first of 3 FPtr of same color below, skip 6 sts, 1sc (BL), FPtr around last FPtr of same group of 3 FPtr below, ch6, skip 6 sts, 1sc in next ch3-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C5, cut C2) – 5 sts and 2 ch6-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 12: With C5. Ch1 (not a st), [5tr in ch2-sp in the corner from 3 rounds below – in front of work, ch6, skip sc and ch6-sp, 1sc (BL) in next FPtr, FPdtr around central FPtr from 5 rounds below, sc in next FPtr, ch6, skip next ch6-sp and sc] x8, join with ss in first tr, ss in next 2 tr (change to C4 in last ss) – 3 sts and 2 ch6-sps on each side, 5 tr in each corner

Round 13: With C4. All dc are made in front of work. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, 1sc in same tr, ch3, skip 2 tr, 1dc in each of 3 sts of same color below, skip sp, 3sc (BL), 1dc in each of next 3 sts of same color below, ch3, skip sp and 2 tr, 1sc in central tr of group of 5 tr] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C3, cut C4) – 11 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner

Round 14: First sc is made in same sp as join.

With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [1sc in next sp (mark as corner), ch3, skip next sc and 2 ch, 1sc in third ch, 3sc (BL), FPdtr around FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st, 1sc (BL), FPdtr around next FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st, 3sc, 1sc in next ch, ch3, skip next 2 ch and sc] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C5) – 11 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner

Round 15: First sc is made in same st as join.

With C5. Ch1 (not a st), [1sc in next sc (mark as corner), FPtr2tog around 4th and 5th tr of same color below, ch7, 2FPtr around next FPtr of same color below, ch7, FPtr2tog around 1st and 2nd tr of next group of 5 tr of same color] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C3) – 2 FPtr, 2 FPtr2tog and 2 ch7-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner

Round 16: First sc is made in same st as join.

With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [2sc (BL), 1dc in each of next 5 sts of same color from 2 rounds below making last dc in FPtr, sc (BL) in each of next 2 FPtr of prev round, 1dc in each of 5 sts of same color from 2 rounds below beginning in FPtr, 1sc (BL) in next FPtr2tog of prev round] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C5, cut C3) – 120 sts

Round 17: With C5. First skipped st will be same st as join.

Ch1 (not a st), [FPdc3tog (around FPtr2tog, sc and next FPtr2tog of same color below), skip 1 st, 14sc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first FPdc3tog (change to C1, cut all other yarns) – 120 sts

That's all for today! See you next week :)

Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.
Read Full Article
  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 
You asked and I heard you! April Showers Mandala make-a-long will begin next week here, on my blog. We will be making a crochet mandala with a mix of overlay crochet and cascade of lacy borders. Please, read details below.

April Showers Mandala was created for Simy’s Studio challenge. In April I designed a crocheted piece inspired by a digital illustration. After finished design was revealed I received huuuuuge number of messages asking for a pattern. And finally, here it is!

Make-a-long will consist of 3 parts (links will be added after each part is released):

Part 1 – May 10th, 2019 (central overlay medallion)
Part 2 – May 17th, 2019 (first lacy frame)
Part 3 – May 24th, 2019 (second lacy frame and border)

Each part will be published on my blog in English (US terms) and Dutch. And there will be also a possibility to purchase a complete pdf file with all parts and photo-tutorial for a small fee on Ravelry and Esty. A nice option for those who doesn’t want to wait for 3 weeks to complete the mandala.

For April Showers Mandala you will need DK yarn in 5 colors, crochet hook (4mm), stitch markers and yarn needle to weave in ends, which will be not so many.

I chose Stones Washed yarn by Scheepjes to recreate the colors of Simy’s original digital illustration.

My shades are: 801 Moon Stone (15g - 1 skein), 814 Crystal Quartz (45g – 1 skein), 805 Blue Apatite (30g – 1 skein), 813 Amazonite (75g – 2 skeins) and 802 Smokey Quartz (35g – 1 skein). All amounts are approximate, and if you gauge differs a lot, you might need more yarn.

Stone Washed yarn is available in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers (affiliate links are marked with *. I might be compensated with a tiny amount if you make a purchase via these links while you will not pay anything extra):

Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo* (US and Canada), Knotty House* (Canada)

Finished mandala is approx. 70cm/27.5” large measured from point to point.

It can be used as a wall hanging, pillow decoration or table center piece. Laura Jackson, who was helping me with test, has a plan to turn this mandala into a pouf. And I am very curious to see how it will turn out!

That’s all for now and see you next week!

Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.


Read Full Article
  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 
Stained Glass crochet is not a completed concept or a special technique. We call some crochet projects “stained glass” because they remind of stained glass windows. Because of two contrast colors: dark (usually black) for patterning and bright color for the background. I have approached stained glass crochet a few times already. My first design was a Stained Glass Mandala potholder. And later Stained Glass Lantern square/blanket was released. And today I am happy to introduce Stained Glass Wonder - crochet blanket or pillow.
Photo credit: Laura Jackson

Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

The pattern is available for purchase on Ravelry and Etsy with 20% discount through Monday, April 29, 2019. The price you see is discounted already, and no codes are needed. Later the pattern will be listed at a regular price. 

Stained Glass effect can be achieved with different crochet techniques: overlay, mosaic or tapestry. The patterns should not necessarily be tricky, and even with simple stitches the result would be stunning.

Variegated and self-patterning yarns in combination with solid shades work even better. The advantage is that there are almost no ends to weave, as we change yarn on every round without cutting it, but simply carry yarn up to the next round on the back side.

For Stained Glass Wonder blanket I used a kind of overlay crochet. Long stitches are "anchored" around stitches of the same color from several rounds below. Only one color is used per round, and yarns are changed in joining slip stitch. The pattern contains lots of progress pictures showing placement of every stitch.
Photo credit: Laura Jackson

My initial idea was to create a pillow with just one circle shaped into a square. I have a T-shirt with an owl drawing who has two eyes, reminding dream catchers. And once in the morning when I looked into a mirror and saw these mandalas, I thought something like that would look nice in crochet.

I chose Scheepjes Colour Crafter* and Wanderlust* yarns for a pillow. But when it was almost finished, I thought it would be lovely to maybe crochet a blanket with Scheepjes Whirl and Whirlette yarns.

By the way, isn’t my pillow a perfect match for a Stained Glass Lantern blanket?..

When I talked this idea to Laura Jackson, who was helping me to test the pattern, she became very enthusiastic and decided to create large blanket using 2 Whirl cakes and 9 Whirlettes. Her choice is Blackberry Mint Chip (769) and Rosewater Cocktail (776) in combination with Grappa Whirlette (855).
Photo credit: Laura Jackson

And I made a smaller version with just one Whirl in Jumpin Jelly (759) and 4 Chewy Whirlettes (865) - for a little bit muted look.

Whirl and Whirlette yarn are available for purchase in local Scheepjes shops and also via online retailers (affiliate links are marked with *):

Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping),
Caro's Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo (US&Canada), Knotty House* (Canada)

Check out projects by other testers (sending many thanks their way). They used different yarns and color combinations.

Larger version consists of 20 mandala octagons and is approx. 136 x 170cm (53.5 x 67 in), and my smaller version has 9 octagons and is approx. 102 x 102 cm (40 x 40 in).

Spaces between octagons are filled with joining motifs: small squares, side and corner triangles. Instructions on how to make all elements are given in the pattern.
Photo credit: Laura Jackson

And just to remind that the pattern is available for purchase on Ravelry and Etsy with 20% discount through Monday, April 29, 2019. The price you see is discounted already, and no codes are needed. Later the pattern will be listed at a regular price.

Hope you enjoy :)

Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.


Read Full Article
  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 


Disclosure: this post contains affiliate links (marked with *) Nederlands - vertaald door Carmen Jorissen (New Leaf Designs) Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry.Materials:~ Scheepjes Whirligig (20% Alpaca x 80% Virgin Wool), 450g/1000m/1094yrds:
1 (1, 1, 1, 1) cake
~ Scheepjes Whirligigette (20% Alpaca x 80% Virgin Wool), 100g/215m/235yrds:
0 (0, 0, 1, 1) cake
~ Crochet hook 4.5mm and 5mm
~ Yarn needle to put shrug together and weave in ends, a buckle
Gauge: 13 sts x 15 rows = 10cm/4” with hdc made under all three loops (between the stitches) with 5mm hook

Whirligig and Whirligigette cakes are available for purchase in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers:

Wool Warehouse*, Deramores*, Black Sheep Wools* (all in UK with international shipping
Caro's Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo (Canada and US), Knotty House* (Canada)

MeasurementsTo fit bust:
81-86 (91-97, 101-107, 111-117, 122-127) cm/ 32-34 (36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50) in

Actual bust of the finished shrug (all measurements in the pattern are given after a light blocking!):
110 (119, 130, 142, 159) cm/ 43.5, 47, 51, 57, 62.5) in

Pattern Notes:
  • Spring Leaves Shrug is crocheted from bottom to top in one piece. Then two seams are made to shape the shrug. Narrow armholes borders and front band are added to finish.
  • Ch2 in the beg of every row doesn’t counts as a st. First st of every row is made in last st of previous row.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide (US terms)beg beginning
BPdc back post double crochet: yo, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.
ch chain stitch
dc double crochet: yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.
dc3tog double crochet 3 together: [yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
FPdc front post double crochet: yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.
hdc half double crochet: yo, insert hook under three loops (between the stitches), yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through all three loops.
RS right side
sc single crochet: insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops.
ss slip stitch: insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull second lp through first loop on hook.
st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
WS wrong side
yo yarn over the hook
Pattern repeat: […] repeat instructions between […] as many times as indicated

INSTRUCTIONS
An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video-tutorials are NOT allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry.
Begin with Whirligig yarn. For large sizes you can either begin with matching Whirligigette and then continue with Whirligig for a continuous gradient. Or you can begin with Whirligig and join matching Whirligigette on top panel and for armhole borders and front band.


Bottom Panel

Row 1. With 5mm hook ch144 (157, 170, 188, 209), hdc in second ch from the hook, hdc in each ch to end, turn – {142, 155, 168, 187, 207 hdc}

Row 2. Ch2 (doesn’t count as a st – here and throughout), hdc in each st to end
inserting the hook under all three loops (between the stitches), turn – {142, 155, 168, 187, 207 hdc}

Repeat row 2 until Bottom Panel measures 31 (30.5, 29.5, 28.5, 27) cm/ 12.5 (12, 11.5, 11, 10.5) in.

Next row – WS. Ch2, FPdc around each st to end, fasten off.

Top Panel

Row 1 - RS. Skip 36 (39, 42, 48, 51) sts. With 4.5mm hook attach yarn on RS (ridge will be facing you) in 37th (40th, 43rd, 49th, 51st) st, ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), dc in same st, dc in next st, [ch2, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st, ch2, skip 1 st, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st] repeat 9 (10, 11, 12, 14) times, [ch2, skip 1 st, dc in next st] twice, dc in next st, turn. You should have 36 (39, 42, 48, 51) unworked sts left.

Insert markers in 23rd (24th, 25th, 27th, 28th) skipped/unworked sts on last row of Bottom Panel measuring from the edges of Top Panel. This should leave 17 (18, 19, 20, 21) cm/ 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) in between markers and edge of the top panel. And 10.5 (12, 14, 17, 18.5) cm/4 (5, 5.5, 6.5, 7.5) in between markers and edges of bottom panel.

!!Gauge check: gauge will change on the top panel. Its width should stay approx. 54 (60, 65, 70, 80.5 cm)/ 21 (23.5, 25.5, 27.5, 32) in throughout. If it becomes much wider, please, make all chains and dc tighter or switch to a smaller hook.

Row 2 - WS. Ch2, 2dc, ch1, skip sp, [3dc in next st, ch2, skip next sp, dc2tog over next 2 sts (here and throughout), 1dc, dc2tog, ch2, skip sp] repeat until 3dc and ch2-sp left, 3dc in next dc, ch1, skip sp, 2dc to end, turn.

Row 3 – RS. Ch2, 2dc, skip sp, 2dc in next, 1dc, 2dc in next st, [ch2, skip sp, dc3tog over next 3 sts (here and throughout), ch2, skip sp, 2dc in next st, 1dc, 2dc in next st] repeat until 2 sts and ch1-sp left, skip ch1-sp, 2dc to end, turn.

Row 4 – WS. Ch2, 7dc, [ch2, skip sp, BPdc around next dc3tog, ch2, skip sp, 5dc] repeat until 2 sts left, 2dc to end, turn.

Row 5 – RS. Ch2, 7dc, [ch2, skip sp, FPdc around next st, ch2, skip sp, 5dc] repeat until 2 sts left, 2dc to end, turn.

Row 6 – WS. Ch2, 2dc, ch1 (don’t skip sts), dc2tog, 1dc, dc2tog, [ch2, skip sp, 3dc in next st, ch2, skip sp, dc2tog, 1dc, dc2tog] repeat until 2 sts left, ch1 (don’t skip sts), 2dc to end, turn.

Row 7 – RS. Ch2, 2dc, ch2, skip sp, dc3tog, [ch2, skip sp, 2dc in next st, 1dc, 2dc in next st, ch2, skip sp, dc3tog] repeat until 2dc and ch1-sp left, ch2, skip sp, 2dc to end, turn.

Row 8 – WS. Ch2, 2dc, ch2, skip sp, BPdc around next st, [ch2, skip sp, 5dc, ch2, skip sp, BPdc around next st] repeat until 2 dc and ch2-sp left, ch2, skip sp, 2dc to end, turn.

Row 9 – RS. Ch2, 2dc, ch2, skip sp, FPdc around next st, [ch2, skip sp, 5dc, ch2, skip sp, FPdc around next st] repeat until 2dc and ch2-sp left, ch2, skip sp, 2dc to end, turn.

Repeat rows 2-9 until top panel measures 27.5 (30, 33, 36, 39.5)cm/ 11 (12, 13, 14, 15.5)in – blocked!

Note: Different sizes will need different number of rows. Top panel will not necessarily end with row 9.

Next row. Ch1, 1sc in every st and every sp. Fasten off leaving approx. 50cm/20in tail.

Place markers along edges of upper panel 17 (18, 19, 20, 21) cm/ 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) in measuring from last row of bottom panel. This should leave 10.5 (12, 14, 17, 18.5) cm/4 (5, 5.5, 6.5, 7.5) in to last row of top panel.

FinishingBlock shrug exactly to the measurements.
Place the shrug onto the table with WS facing you and fold both sides of Bottom Panel to front, so that edges meet. Folds should be exactly below the edges of top panel which should stay flat and unfolded.
Now fold corners of the top panel diagonally down, so that edge meets unworked sts on the last row of Bottom Panel. Markers on top and bottom panel should meet.
Sew bottom and top panels from outer edge down to the markers using tapestry needle. An armhole will be left on each side.


Armhole borders (both alike)

With RS facing you attach yarn in any st of the armhole using 5mm hook. Make ch1 and sc in same st as join. Then make (ch1, skip st, sc in next st) evenly making sure the fabric doesn’t pull. If needed, frog first round and remake it with more sc and sps between them. When you are satisfied with the stretch of the armhole, don’t join the round and continue working in spiral making sc in every ch1-sp and ch1 over every sc. After 5 rounds ss in next ch1-sp and fasten off. Repeat for another armhole.

Front Band

With RS facing you attach yarn in the corner of Bottom Panel using 5mm hook.

Row 1 – RS. Make ch1 and sc in same st as join. Then make (ch1, skip st, sc in next st) evenly ending in another front corner of the Bottom Panel. Make sure the fabric doesn’t pull. If needed, frog first row and remake it with more sc and sps between them. Turn.

Row 2 – WS. Ch1, 1sc, 1sc in next sp, [ch1, skip next st, 1sc in next sp] repeat until 1 st left, 1sc in last st, turn.

Row 3 – RS. Ch1, 1sc, [ch1, skip next st, 1sc in next sp] repeat until 2 sts left, ch1, skip next st, 1sc in last st, turn.

Repeat Rows 2-3 until desired width of the front band. Fasten off.
Sew a buckle on the front.

Congratulations! Your Spring Leaves Shrug is now finished!

Measurements in cm:
A: 110 (119, 130, 142, 159)
B: 31 (30.5, 29.5, 28.5, 27)
C: 27.5 (30, 33, 36, 39.5)
D: 54 (60, 65, 70, 80.5)
E: 17 (18, 19, 20, 21)

Measurements in inches:
A: 43.5 (47, 51, 57, 62.5)
B: 12.5 (12, 11.5, 11, 10.5)
C: 11 (12, 13, 14, 15.5)
D: 21 (23.5, 25.5, 27.5, 32)
E: 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5)

Finishing 


Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.


Read Full Article
  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 
Ok, it’s Friday! And it’s time to finally share pictures of my new mini-shrug with you. I’ve been working on it for last couple of months, and today is a ta-dah! moment. It was a challenge in many ways. I wanted to use just one cake of Whirligig yarn* to create something wearable. And the shape is not very usual. But with a little bit of struggles, it’s here!

Disclosure: this post contains affiliate links (marked with *)

It would be more precise to mention that though small sizes use only one cake of Whirligig yarn by Scheepjes, larger sizes will need an extra cake of Whirligigette in matching color. If you haven’t heard about them yet, please, check my brief yarn review.

My new shrug design has a name already. I called it “Spring Leaves” mostly because of the lace pattern on shoulders imitating leaves and also because the bright green colour. The bottom is made with more dense fabric (I used half doubles between stitches – US terms). And just look at this gradient! Isn’t it amazing? 

I crocheted S size for myself and still some Whirligig yarn was left. So my Sapphire to Teal gradient is not full. With a larger size hints of light blue would appear on top and front. And I can imagine it would look awesome.

The construction of Spring Leaves Shrug is very simple. And the pattern is aimed for beginners! Basically it’s just one piece crocheted from bottom to top. Then edges are folded to front and two short seams by hand are added. The shrug is finished with armhole borders and front band.

This shrug was designed as a short (or cropped) garment. I would imagine wearing it with skirts and dresses. But it looks awesome also with jeans. And with both with short and longe sleeved shirts or blouses. In general I would say the look of this shrug is both chic and casual. Perfect for every day and special ocassions.

And no need to say the yarn is soft and warm - very nice against my skin. Though this feeling is subjective of course.

The length is easily adjustable. You can either make it longer as you go. Or add a few extra rows after the whole shrug is finished. I did it with mine, and the seam at the bottom is invisible.

Here is sample made by Theresa Pearson (2X – the largest – size). Because it was tested in the largest size, I am safe to say that Whirligig + Whirligigette will be enough!

I chose a faux leather buckle for closing front. But a regular button will also work.

Look at the shrug by Laura Jackson (M size, longer version). She picked the button which is  almost 75 years old and has a wonderful story behind. Here is what Laura says:

"My Grandma was born in 1902 in England and came to Canada where she became a school teacher and got married. Living in Saskatchewan, Canada through the great depression means she saved everything! So this old button was one of many saved, and left in her house on the prairies when they retired from farming and moved to British Columbia. Probably it came off a coat or something similar that had worn beyond repair, but the buttons were still good so they got taken off and saved."

Spring Leaves shrug will come in 5 sizes with the following actual bust measurements 110 (119, 130, 142, 159) cm/ 43.5 (47, 51, 57, 62.5) in.

This shrug is not fitted, and it should give a lot of positive ease, otherwise armholes will not fit. The given sizes are recommended for the following actual bust: 81-86 (91-97, 101-107, 111-117, 122-127) cm/ 32-34 (36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50) in.

Whirligig and Whirligigette cakes are available for purchase in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers:

Wool Warehouse*, Deramores*, Black Sheep Wools* (all in UK with international shipping
Caro's Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo (Canada and US), Knotty House* (Canada)

The pattern will come out next week, I hope. So watch this spot!

Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.


Read Full Article
  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 
Unbelievable, but it’s 1st of April already! Where does the time fly?.. Spring is finally in the air, even though the nights are still pretty cold. I usually don’t blog on Mondays, but today is a special day. Today I am hosting Simy’s Year of Mandalas challenge.

Every month Simy is designing a digital mandala and is asking everyone to join her and use it as an inspiration for your own crochet pieces.

There are no rules, no patter, no stress. Just a pure joy of creating. The mandala don’t have to look exactly the same as drawing. You might be inspired only by colors, or some elements. Here is Simy's mandala for April.


I took April challenge and crocheted my own mandala using four shades of Stone Washed* yarn by Scheepjes: Moon Stone 801, Amazonite 813, Blue Apatite 805 and Crystal Quartz 814. The mandala was born in just three days, as I switched my brain off and followed my heart.

Why to crochet a mandala, you may ask? I’ve been crocheting them since I started to design. Mandala was the first item I learned overlay crochet with. And small mandala coasters were the first ones I wrote patterns for.

You might have noticed that nowadays book stores are stuffed with colouring books. And many of them feature mandalas. Because they are known for a huge meditative and healing effect. And instead of markers and pencils we, yarnies, can use crochet hooks and yarns to “colour” our own mandalas.

And what crochet mandalas can be used for, you may ask? You can use them in many ways: as doilies, wall and hanging decorations, pillow covers, chair pads – you name it. A while ago I wrote blog post about different ways of using crochet mandalas. Feel free to check it out!

I haven’t decided yet on how I will use my new mandala… It’s quite huge – approx. 60cm across. It might make a nice top of the floor pillow or the pouf.

No pattern yet, but if you interested in it, please let me know and we’ll think of something. We might even run a mini make-a-long? What do you think?

Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.


Read Full Article
  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 
Today is Week 20 of Friends Around the World 3 CAL, and I am happy to introduce Water Lilly 12” afghan square. The pattern is free and is available in several languages. Please, scroll down to find and choose the links. And you can read all information about the CAL and participating designers HERE. Enjoy!


Translations:

DISCLOSURE: affiliate links (marked with *) are used in this post.
 Materials:
  • Aran Yarn (River Washed XL by Scheepjes) in one or three colors:

Yarn A: color 943 or 944, 11g/17m/19yrds
Yarn B: color 949 or 952, 24g/36m/40yrds
Yarn C: color 950 or 942, 42g/63m/69yrds

River Washed XL yarn is available for purchase in local Scheepjes stores and via online retailers:

Wool Warehouse*, Deramores*, Black Sheep Wools* (UK, international shipping)
Caro's Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Knotty House* (Canada)
  • scissors, tapestry needles to weave in yarn tails

Size: 12”/30cm

 Abbreviations and Stitch Guide (US terms)
st(s) stitch(es)
ch chain
lp loop
yo yarn over
sp(s) space(s)
RS right side
(…) (crochet following directions) as many times as indicated
ss (slip stitch) - insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull second lp through the first lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
hdc (half double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through all three lps.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice
tr (treble crochet) – yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* three times.
sc2tog (single crochet 2 together) - insert hook in the indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, insert hook in next st, yo and pull through, yo and pull through three lps on hook
dc2tog (double crochet 2 together) – *yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps; repeat from * once more, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
dc3tog (double crochet 3 together) – *yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps; repeat from * twice more yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook.
dc4tog (double crochet 4 together) – *yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps; repeat from * 3 more times in same stitch, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.
BPdc (back post double crochet) – yo, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps; repeat from * once more.

An original Lilla Björn Crochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, shared, republished (online and off-line), redistributed, translated without permission or edited in any way – in part or in a whole. No video tutorials are allowed without permission! Please, always credit me as a designer. Thank you!

INSTRUCTIONS
Round 1. With Yarn A make magic ring, ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), 12dc in ring, tighten ring, join with ss in first dc after ch2 – 12 dc.

Round 2. Ch3 and dc in the same st as join (counts as first dc2tog), ch2, *dc2tog in next st, ch2* 11 times, join with ss in first dc after ch3 – 12 dc2tog, 12 ch2-sps.

Round 3. First leg of first dc3tog will be ch3.

Ss in next ch2-sp, *dc3tog (over same sp, next dc2tog and next sp), ch3* 12 times, join with ss in first dc3tog – 12 dc3tog, 12 ch3-sps.

Round 4. Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), *sc in dc3tog, (hdc, dc, 2tr, dc, hdc) in next ch3-sp - petal made* 12 times, join with ss in first sc – 12 “petals”. Cut yarn if changing color.

Round 5. Continue with Yarn A or change to Yarn B in first ch1. Work behind the petals.

*Ch5, skip petal, sc in next sc* 12 times. Make last sc over joining ss of the previous round – 12 sc, 12 ch5-sps.

Round 6. Ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), *5dc in next ch5-sp* 12 times, join with ss in first dc after ch2 – 60 dc.

Round 7. First dc is made in same st as join.

Ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), *2dc, tr in sp between 2tr of the petal below, skip 1 st on Round 6, 2dc, dc between current and next dc of Round 6* 12 times, join with ss in first dc after ch2 – 60 dc, 12 tr.

Round 8. First leg of first dc3tog will be ch3.

*Dc3tog over next 3 sts, ch3* 24 times, join with ss in first dc3tog – 24 dc3tog, 24 ch3-sps.

Round 9. First dc is made in same st as join.

Ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), *dc in dc3tog, 3dc in next сh3-sp* 24 times, join with ss in first dc after ch2 – 96 dc. Fasten off if changing colour.

Round 10. Continue with Yarn A or change to Yarn C in first ch1. First BPdc is made around first dc of previous round (after ch2).

Ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), *BPdc around each of next 4 sts, 2BPdc around next st, BPdc around each of next 3 sts* 12 times, join with ss in first BPdc after ch2 – 108 BPdc.

Round 11. Make ch5 instead of first tr and ch1-sp

Ss in each of next 2 sts, *tr in same st, ch1, tr in same st, ch2, skip 2 sts, dc4tog in next st, ch2, skip 2 sts, 2dc, 3hdc, 6sc, 3hdc, 2dc, ch2, skip 2 sts, dc4tog in next st, ch2, skip 2 sts, tr in next st, ch1* 4 times working last tr in the same st as the first tr, join with ss in fourth ch in the beginning of the round – 2 tr, 2 dc4tog, 4 dc, 6 hdc, 6sc, 4 ch2-sps and 2 ch1-sps on each side, tr in each corner.

Round 12. Make ch6 instead of first tr and ch2-sp

*Tr in same tr, ch2, 2tr in same tr, tr in next ch1-sp, tr in next tr, 2tr in next ch2-sp, dc in next dc4tog, 2dc in next ch2-sp, hdc in each of next 3 sts, 4sc, sc2tog over next 2 sts, 4sc, hdc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next ch2-sp, dc in next dc4tog, 2tr in next ch2-sp, tr in next tr, tr in next ch1-sp, tr in next tr* 4 times making last tr in the same st as the first tr, join with ss in fourth ch in the beginning of the round – 12 tr, 6 dc, 6 hdc, 8 sc and sc2tog on each side, ch2-sp in each corner.


Round 13. Make ch4 instead of first dc and ch2-sp

Ss in sp, *dc in same sp, ch2, 2dc in same sp, (ch2, dc3tog over next 3 sts) x11 times, ch2, dc in next sp* 4 times making last dc in the same sp as the first dc, join with ss in third ch in the beginning of the round – 4 dc, 11 dc3tog and 12 ch2-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner.

Round 14. Ss in sp, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), *sc in same ch2-sp in the corner, sc in each of next 2 sts, (2sc in next sp, sc in next dc3tog) x 11 times, 2sc in next sp, sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next ch2-sp in the corner, ch2* 4 times making last sc in the same sp as the first sc, join with ss in first sc, fasten off – 41 sc on each side, ch2-sp in each corner.

Congratulations! Your Water Lilly 12" Afghan Square is now finished!

And here is video made by Tania Leis

Fatw 2018/19 Week 20 - YouTube


Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.


Read Full Article

Read for later

Articles marked as Favorite are saved for later viewing.
close
  • Show original
  • .
  • Share
  • .
  • Favorite
  • .
  • Email
  • .
  • Add Tags 

Separate tags by commas
To access this feature, please upgrade your account.
Start your free month
Free Preview