Cut two 23x30cm (9x12”) panels of outer bag fabric, lining fabric and interfacing. Cut a 2” square from the bottom corners of each piece.
Cut two 20x30cm (8x12”) panels of fabric for the drawstring element.
Cut two 8x30cm (3x12”) panels of fabric and interfacing for the handles.
Cut four 6x30cm (2.5x12”) panels of fabric and interfacing for the contrast band of the bag.
Follow the fabric preparation guide above to cut your pattern pieces. Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of the main bag, contrast band and handle pieces.
Fold each of the handle pieces lengthways, right sides together and sew down the long open edge. Turn them through so right sides are facing outwards, press and topstitch down each long side.
Sandwich the handles between two contrast strips, 11cm (4¼”) from the side edges. Sew along the edge of the contrast strips on the side where the ends of the handles are positioned.
Sew two contrast strips together ensuring that the seams from Step 3 align. Turn the piece the right side out, then press and topstitch around the top of the contrast strip.
Place the 9x12” outer front and back panels right sides together. Stitch down both sides and across the bottom, keeping the top open. Bring the base and side seams together on one bottom corner and stitch across them. Repeat this on the remaining bottom corner to box the base of the bag. Repeat this step with the 9x12” lining panels, but leave a 12.5cm (5”) turning gap across the bottom.
Sew the two drawstring panels together along the two sides measuring 20cm (8”) stopping 4cm (1.5") from top. Press the seams open and topstitch down each seam to neaten them. Double-fold along the top edge where you left the 1.5” gap, top stitch around the channel.
Place drawstring piece right sides together onto the lining, and stitch it to secure in place.
Place contrast strip with handles right sides together with the outer bag and stitch it to secure it.
Place lining right sides together with outer bag and sew around the top.
Pull bag out through the turning gap left in the lining from Step 5. Sew the gap closed by hand or machine and push the lining inside the outer bag.
Use a safety pin to thread a length of ribbon through the drawstring channel, going through on side and threading it all the way round to exit at the same side it entered. Repeat this with the remaining length of thread, starting and exiting on the opposite side. Tie knots in the ends of the ribbon and pull the ribbons to close the drawstring top. Your sweet bag is now complete!
We just love hearing your feedback on our fabulous new patchwork system - Build-A-Block™. Thank you for sharing your makes with us!
Here's another project to add to your repertoire and the ninth in our dedicated Build-A-Block series - a stylish, colourful bed runner.
This quilt consists of eight 12” tulip quilt blocks. Each individual block is built using the following shapes:
Three 4.5” squares of background fabric
One 4.5” square of complementary fabric for the flower
Three 2.5” squares of background fabric
One 2.5” square of complementary fabric for the bud
Two 4.5” half square triangles of complementary fabric for the flower
Two 4.5” half square triangles of complementary fabric for the leaves
Four 4.5” half square triangles of background fabric
So, are you up for the challenge? Great!
You will need
76x152cm (30x60”) of fabric for the backing / 76x152cm (30x60”) of wadding / 100cm (39”) of main background fabric for the top / 4 fat quarters of complementary fabrics for the tulips / 50cm (19.5”) of complementary fabric for the side borders / 50cm (19.5”) of complementary fabric for the binding / Gemini Build-A-Block™ dies / Stick & Spray fabric adhesive / Gemini die-cutting machine / Sewing machine / Basic sewing kit / Walking foot / Iron
Die-cut the pieces as stated above in the preparation and sew the tulip block together
following the instructions in the Build-A-Block™ booklet. Repeat this step to create eight
tulip blocks in total.
Sew the eight tulip blocks together in the formation matching the design on the finished
project. Next, add a 62.25x10cm (24.5x4”) strip of coloured fabric to the short sides
of the runner and press well.
Place the backing fabric wrong side up, add the wadding on top and then lay the top side of
the runner in the centre of the wadding, right side up. You should have excess wadding and
backing around all four sides which allows for movement when quilting. Use Stick & Spray
fabric adhesive or use safety pins to keep the layers together, ensuring that they are as
smooth as possible.
Quilt the top side of the runner by hand or machine (this runner has been quilting using
straight lines and a walking foot on the sewing machine). Then trim the runner on all four
sides, ensuring the corners are squared off.
To create the binding for the bed runner, join 6.5cm (2.5”) side strips of your chosen fabric to
create enough to go around all four sides of the runner. You will need at least 430cm (169”).
Fold and press the binding in half lengthways, wrong sides together. Keeping the binding
folded, align the raw edges to the edge of one long side and sew to the first corner, stopping
approximately 0.5cm (0.25”) from the corner and leaving a 6cm (2”) tail at the start.
To mitre the corner, fasten off the thread at the end of Step 5. Fold the binding straight back
towards the corner then fold it back again at a 45° angle, aligning the fold along the raw edge.
Start to sew again and repeat this along the remaining sides of the runner. To join the
binding, fold over one of the raw edges and overlap the two ends, ensuring the other
raw edge is hidden.
Finally, fold the binding to the back and neatly slip stitch in place to reveal your stunning
There is nothing like showing someone that you care by creating something heartfelt and unique.
In this video, Dawn talks us through the concept of Create-a-Card dies and illustrates the flexibility of these to create a couple of stunning makes.
Dawn has incredible vision, and in her unique style, she shares something different with you, offering top tips along the way - helping you to develop your technique.
Enjoy the video and simply follow our step-by-step instructions below to help you create these beautiful cards.
Email Project week 2 Create -a -Card dies - YouTube
Love what you see? Enjoy 20% off Create-a-Card dies until midnight 19th July OR order before midnight 15th July and you'll get AN EXTRA 10% OFF at the checkout! Click here to take advantage of this offer!
What You'll Need To Make These Cards
Prepare card and papers for the project: Card base - 5 ¾” x 11 ½” and score in half to make a square card / Background paper - 5 ½” x 5 ½” / Main paper - 5 ¼” x 5 ¼” / Card insert - 5 ¾” x 5 ¾”.
Create a diagonal score line on the front of your card.
Lay your background and main papers on the front square of your card base and tape in place, then turn this over and position your Create-a-Card die on the inside of the card facing outwards on the score line you created. Tape this down and pass this through your machine (the Gemini will cut all these layers but as long as you have the basic outline of the die shape on you patterned papers you can then cut this free hand).
Clear die cut pieces from your card base and cut away the die shape from your background and main papers.
Glue your background and main patterned papers in place and attach the insert paper to your card.
Fold back the decorative triangle section made by the die and glue the corner with some tacky glue.
Now decorate your card with your embellishments for that finishing touch.
We recently launched our fabulous Gemini Cut On Edge dies - giving you plenty of crafting options. Now here's a concept that will really bring your project to life... Add some twinkling lights and make a decoration that can be displayed for many Christmases to come. Thanks to Nicole Preston for providing this super tutorial!
Using the big score create a card black which measures 6 ½ inches x 7 ½ inches. Make sure the score line is on the longer edge.
Cut the 2 mats which will place on top of the card. One at 6 inches and one at 6 ¼ inches.
You need to cut the detail die out of the smaller of the 2 mats. Line the die up centrally so that it fits and have a thin border, this will allow for the wires to be hidden.
Now working on the reverse of the die cut image place 2 strips of foam tape.
Place the Christmas tree to one side. You now need to create the box which will house the cork light switch. Cut a piece of card from Centura Pearl which measures 4 ½ inches x 6 ½ inches. Place this on the score board and score at 1 inch, 2 inch, 3 inch and 4 inch.
Use a bone folder along all of the fold lines to make the folded edges crisp. Then flatten out and draw a cross as shown in the image. Use your craft knife to create cut lines on this cross. Try to make this line as central as possible but it doesn’t matter if it slightly off. I did not measure mine.
You now need to thread the lights through the card so that when you stick the box together the cork element is hidden. When you go to stick the tab to create the box shape you should use the tacky glue. Don’t worry if your cut line looks messy when it has been stuck together, you can always hide this with card when the card is complete.
TOP TIP: Make sure when you stick the section together you have enough wire for the switch to be able to be accessed (See picture). If this is not left you will struggle to turn the card on and off.
Now that you have stuck the box together you should have a panel you need to add the lights to the tree. Start by lining up the bottom of the tree (as shown) and leave an approximate gap of ¼ inch between the box and the card. Make sure at this point, before sticking down, that the switch is still accessible.
Stick the bottom of the lights to the base of the tree and the end of the string of lights to the star on the tree. I found red liner tape best for this. I found this next part of the card easier to complete with the lights on. If using multi-coloured lights it makes it easier to see the distribution of the colour.
Secure the rest of the lights in place with red tape and be mindful to place them where there are gaps in the card.
Now that all lights are in position you then need to add foam tape or 3D gel in the spare spaces to ensure the card does not bow in the middle.
You can now stick this to the other matt. I find it easier to complete it this way than directly to the card.
Stick the tree and the box element to the card blank. The box element should have no gap at the bottom. The tree matt should leave a border of approximately 1/8 inch around the edge.
You can now decorate the box with strips of card or sentiments. You could even add smalls presents to the bottom of the tree. Try changing the colour of the lights or the colour of your card stock to give different looks.
You will need to make 18 of each block as follows:
Quilt top layout
Each block is made up of four die-cut squares. To construct a block, place two squares
right sides together, sew using a 0.5cm (¼”) seam allowance and press the seams to one side.
Repeat with the remaining two squares ensuring the seam is pressed to the opposite side. Next,
join these two pairs together to make the block.
Once all 72 blocks are made, lay them out as per the diagram. You will notice that
some blocks need rotating. Sew the blocks in pairs using a 0.5cm (¼”) seam allowance and
press as you go. Continue sewing the pieces in pairs in this way until you have completed
the quilt top. Press well.
Place the backing on a large surface with the wrong side facing up. Lay the wadding
on top, followed by the quilt top right side facing. Use Stick & Spray fabric adhesive on each
side of the wadding to adhere the pieces together well.
Use a walking foot to quilt through all layers.
Trim back the quilt top ensuring the corners are all square.
Cut 5cm (2.5”) strips from the width of fabric and join them to make the binding.
You will need at least 600cm (236”). Fold the binding in half wrong sides together
(press if preferred) and attach it to the quilt, mitring the corners as you go. Fold the binding
over to the reverse of the quilt and stitch it by hand to the back of the quilt to finish.
Crafter's Companion's talented Julia Gailes shows us how to make a stunning stationery gift box set. So grab a brew and enjoy watching this video, where she gives you plenty of inspiration and ideas to craft your own!
Stationary Box tutorial - YouTube
When you have visualised the look and style of your stationery box, simply grab your Crafter's Companion Scoring Board and get started! Further instructions, alongside the items that you'll need, are listed below.
Stationery Gift Box
For the components to make up the box you will need 2 sheets of 12 x 12 cardstock (you can also use 2 A3 sheets).
Piece 1: Measure 12 x 10 inches (30.5 x 25.4cm): Box
Piece 2: Measure 10 1/8 x 6 1/8 inches (25.7 x 15.6cm): Box lid
Piece 3: Measure 8 1/2 x 4 1/4 inches (22 x 10.8cm): Large inner pocket
Piece 4: Measure 5 1/2 x 2 inches (14 x 5.1cm): Medium inner pocket
Piece 5: Measure 4 1/2 x 2 inches (11.4 x 5.1cm): Small inner pocket
For this project, I used Core'dinations cardstock which is around 200gsm (110lb) which I don't score too hard. If using a heavier cardstock ie, Centura Pearl 250-300gsm (130lb) you'll need to make score your lines heavier.
Piece 1: FIRSTLY on the long side of the card, score at 5 and 7 inches (12.7 x 17.8cm) to the first score line ONLY score at 3/4 inch and 9 1/4 inches (1.9cm and 23.5cm) then at 2 and 8 inches (5.1cm and 20.3cm) all the way to the bottom of the card.
Piece 2: On the long side score at 2 and 8 1/8 inches (5.1cm x 20.6cm). On the short side score at 2 and 4 1/8 inches (5.1cm x 10.2cm).
Piece 3: On the long side score at 1 1/4 and 7 1/4 inches (3.2cm x 17.8cm). On the short side score at 3 inches (7.6cm).
Piece 4: On the long side only score at 1/2 inch, 1, 4 1/2 and 5 inches (1.3cm, 2.5cm, 11.4cm and 12.7cm).
Piece 5: On the long side only score at 1/2 inch, 1, 3 1/2 and 4 inches (1.3cm, 2.5cm, 8.9cm and 10.2cm)
Fold and burnish all of your score lines.
Piece 1: On the long side score lines, cut a small wedge up to the first score line on each side. Turn around and repeat on the opposite edge. The 2 square middle flaps are glued down to the centre of the box. Also, fold the 3/4 inch (1.9cm) pieces at each side and apply glue to the inside and stick together. This gives the box more rigidity and forms the main body of the box.
Piece 2: With the short edge towards you, cut the left score line straight up to the first score line and cut a small wedge on either side. Repeat on the right side and then turn and do opposite side too.
Piece 3: There are 2 equal sized squares at each side of the card. Cut these squares out completely. Cut your mat in decorative paper/card and stick onto the card.
Pieces 4 & 5: There's nothing to cut on these pieces, but I'd stick on my mats with decorative paper/card.
Now apply glue to the three flaps of piece 3. Use the main body (piece 1) of the box as a guide and stick the longer piece to the box bottom and the sides stick into the inside of the strong side flaps. This is the larger pocket that holds the cards. Do the same with pieces 4 and 5 and stick to the front of piece 3. These form the smaller pockets.
With piece 2 (the lid), apply glue to the smaller left and right side flaps. Fold under and stick the middle over the top. Repeat on both sides.
With a thin strip of leftover card (approx 5 inches or 12.7cm long) place glue on one side leaving approximately an inch from the end and use your pen to start rolling and stick to the box. As long as you don't have glue in the wrong place, your pen will slide in and out easily.
Now stick on all other mats and layers and embellish as required and fill with cards, stamps, tags, pen etc.
Mat & Layer Measurements
4 pieces MAT 4 7/8 x 5 7/8 inches (12.4 x 14.9cm).
4 pieces LAYER 4 3/4 x 5 3/4 inches (12.1 x 14.6cm).
2 pieces 1 1/8 x 4 7/8 inches (2.9 x 12.4cm).
2 pieces 1 7/8 x 4 7/8 inches (4.8 x 12.4cm).
1 piece 1 15/16 x 5 15/16 inches (4.9 x 15.1cm).
1 piece MAT 2 x 6 inches (5.1 x 15.2cm).
2 pieces MAT 1 7/8 x 6 inches (4.8 x 15.2cm).
2 pieces LAYER 1 3/4 x 5 7/8 inches (4.5 x 14.9cm).
2 pieces MAT 1 7/8 inches square (4.8cm sq).
2 pieces LAYER 1 3/4 inches square (4.5 cm sq).
Large Inner Pocket
1 piece 5 7/8 x 2 7/8 inches (14.9 x 7.3cm).
Medium Inner Pocket
1 piece MAT 1 7/8 x 3 3/8 inches (4.8 x 8.6cm).
1 piece LAYER 1 3/4 x 3 1/4 inches (4.5 x 8.3cm).
Small Inner Pocket
1 piece 1 7/8 x 2 3/8 inches (4.8 x 6cm).
1 piece 1 3/4/ x 2 1/4 inches (4.5 x 5.7cm).
The cards inside the box measure 4 1/2 x 5 3/4 (11.4 x 14.6cm).
You can get most of the supplies for this project with the Gemini Woodland Embellishment Kit designed to coordinate perfectly with the Miniature Friends dies to create brooches, key rings and more!
Die-cut two bodies from the tan felt
Die-cut two heads from the tan felt
Die-cut two ears from the tan felt
For the leaf, die-cut one ear from the light green felt
Prepare your pink and white felt by applying an adhesive onto them. Do the same for the white and black glitter fabric
Die-cut two inner ears from the pink felt
Die-cut one tail end from the white felt
Die-cut two cheeks from the white felt
Die-cut one nose from the black glitter fabric
Die-cut one tummy from the white glitter fabric.
Cut two circles: one the size of a £2 coin and one the size of a five pence piece.
Prepare your fabric pieces as instructed in the fabric preparation guide above.
Adhere the white cheeks to the head of the fox and the pink inner ears to the large tan ears. Also, adhere the white tail and tummy pieces onto one of the body pieces – the tummy sits just above where her tail curls around.
On the white cheeks, stitch closed eyes. Two strands of dark brown embroidery floss is ideal, and use either a stem stitch or backstitch as they’re delicate enough to showcase the shape and eyelashes. Adhere the glitter nose in between two cheeks.
Place the embellished body onto the plain body to add a bit more structure. Starting at her right shoulder, blanket stitch around the edges using two strands of tan floss. Position her head, sandwiching the ears in between and continue to stitch around the edges. We avoided stitching the cheeks, but just angled our stitches so the felt behind was stitched together. Likewise, we carefully avoided stitching all the way through her ears.
Take a pink circle and roughly cut a spiral into it - it doesn’t need to be neat. Then, starting on the outside edge, roll the rose up, and sew some stitches at the base to hold its shape. Make a second slightly smaller rose. Sew these onto the fox, and tuck the leaf (cut from the ear shape) beside this.
If you have a sew-in brooch back, stitch it centrally on the back of the body. A glue-in brooch back can be attached to the same place using either a textile glue or a hot glue gun.
Do you know of someone who would love to receive a beautiful summer-inspired sunflower card?
In this video, Dawn Macfie tells us how to recreate her simple, yet elegant card, and with no sentiment on the front and left blank inside for your own message, this is perfect for telling someone that you care.
"I want to be like a sunflower so that even on the darkest days I will stand tall & find the sunlight"
- Author unknown.
Email Project 1 - Sunflower Stamp and Spectrum Aqua- Dawn Macfie - YouTube
Once coloured, using your own breath, “huff” over the stamp to reactivate where any ink may have dried!
Stamp image onto your Sheena stamping card.
Using a very damp paintbrush, drag the colour from the stamped image to colour in your stamp. If you require extra colour put some AquaTint on your glass mat and pick up the colour with a damp paintbrush.
Dry with a heat gun as you go so you are in control of your finished image.
To finish off, use a mix of glycerine and AquaTints and blend around the edge of your stamped image - being careful not to touch your stamped image.
Now mat and layer your card, add the twine and attach to your card base.
Do you have a floral-inspired creation to show us?