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Cosy Crochet by Cosycrochet - 4d ago

Tunisian Market Bag

This week I am excited to share with you all a Tunisian Market Bag I designed.   This bag crosses off a couple of my 2019 goals, it is a Tunisian Crochet project, which has furthered my understanding of this craft, but also it has used up some of the smaller left overs in my stash.   In addition to working towards the two goals above, this bag is perfect for putting in my handbag and fits a great amount of shopping in it, making it more environmentally friendly than buying another plastic one.

This pattern is great if you want to learn some more stitches in Tunisian crochet, as it uses 3 different types; the knit stitch, purl stitch and lace stitch.   The Knit stitch is a dense stitch which is great for the base of the bag and the handles to ensure they are strong enough to keep everything in and not fall apart.   The lace stitch is the stretchy part of the bag which expands to fit what you need it to, and the purl stitch creates a decoration in between the two other stitches.   I used a different colour for each section as they were what I happened to have available, but the bag could be made in a solid colour or any combination you would like.   Its a great way to use up some of that cotton in your stash.

The bag is created flat in two different panels which are sewn together, this makes it much easier as a beginner Tunisian project.   I may adapt the pattern to work it in the round later in the summer, which is more challenging if you know a bit of Tunisian crochet already and it would also get rid of the bag seams.   You can find the pattern for the Tunisian Market Bag for FREE below.

Join me next week for another crochet pattern, and until then I hope you enjoy making your Tunisian Market Bag.

Vicky x

Tunisian Market Bag 

 

  1. Materials and Resources

Below is a list of everything you will need to make this bag

  • Lily Sugar n Cream Cotton – 175g in any colours you choose – I used the following colours;
    • Blue Stripe
    • Purple
    • White
  • 6mm
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  1. Stitch List

Below is a list of all the stitches (and their abbreviations) featured in this pattern.  All terms used are American.

  • Ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • TKS – Tunisian Knit Stitch
  • TSS – Tunisian Simple Stitch
  • TPS – Tunisian Purl Stitch
  • FP – Forward Pass
  • RP – Return Pass
  1. Notes

Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.

  • The gauge for this bag is 14 stitches and 16 rows in a 10cm square of Tunisian knit stitch.
  • The bag is made in two panels which are sewn together at the end.
  • Unless otherwise stated the RP will always be – yarn over, pull through 1 loop (once) and then yarn over, pull through 2 loops all the way across to the end when 1 loop remains.
  • I used the single crochet method of cast off for this bag. 

 

  1. Pattern

Bag Panel– Make 2 starting in purple

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 45, FP – TSS, RP 45
2 FP – TKS across, RP 45
3-10 FP – TKS across, RP 45
  Change to white  
11-13 FP – TPS across, RP 45
  Change to blue stripe  
14 FP – TSS across, RP – (ch 4, yarn over and pull through 4 loops) x 11 11 shells
15 FP – TSS in ch st from row below (45 loops total), RP – as row 14 11 shells
16-28 Rep row 15 11 shells
  Change to white  
29-31 FP – TPS across, RP 45
  Change to purple  
32-33 FP – TKS across, RP 45
34 FP – 10 TKS, cast off 25 stitches using TKS, 10TKS, RP – as normal until you get to the cast off section, then ch 25, RP as normal at the end 45
35 FP – TKS, RP 45
36 FP- TKS cast off 45
  • Hold both pieces together with right sides facing each other (TKS pieces should face each other) and sew the panels together around all edges except the cast off row.
  • Sew in all ends and then turn in the right way (so you can see the TKS on the outside) and your bag is ready for use.
© All patterns on this page belong to www.cosycrochet.co.uk You may not sell this pattern. Please feel free to sell the items you make using this pattern, however please acknowledge me in your listing.
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Cosy Crochet by Cosycrochet - 1w ago

Festival Bag

This week I am very excited to share one of my favourite designs with you, my crochet Festival Bag.   I have been wanting to create a design like this for a while.   It has a little of my hippie side in it and is perfect for anyone who is going to be attending a music festival this summer.   It was for a music festival that I originally wanted this bag for.   In case you didn’t know I am a huge country music fan and every year I love to go to a country festival in the UK, along with a couple of other gigs across the year.   Having a bag which can store my valuables but not get in the way of the crowds, isn’t too large and fits in with the feel of the festival is important and this is why I designed the festival bag.

I have actually made two versions of this Festival bag, the smaller bag, which measures 26cm in each direction was the bag I used at the music festival this year.   It was perfect to contain the essentials, small purse, keys, phone, tissues, lip balm and ear plugs and had a small amount of space to spare too.   It is an over the shoulder design and so I didn’t worry about using it and with its zip closure I was happy my valuables were secure.   It is nice and lightweight so didn’t get heavy carrying it all day and was quick to take off and open to go through all the security check points.   In  the taupe colour, with the patterned squares, plaited strap and added fringe the design fitted in perfectly.

Coming home from the festival I continued to use this little bag, but with kids it became apparent I needed to make a slightly larger version, so I could git some wipes and drinks and snacks in for the kids too and so I made another bag with Bernat Home Maker Dec and a larger hook.  This bag is perfect, I can fit a drink for me and both kids, snacks, wipes, everything listed above and a market bag too incase its needed, and sometimes I have room to spare too.   I used a magnetic bag clasp rather than a zip to close this one, and added the extra closing flap to make it a little more secure, but this bag needed to be more easily accessible for when an emergency snack needs to be grabbed!   The larger bag ended up being 36 cm squares and is definitely a more family friendly festival bag.   I made this bag strap slightly smaller to carry on one shoulder rather than cross body but either way could work.

The construction of this crochet Festival bag is pretty simple, you make the squares, join them together, add the fringe, lining and strap and you are done.   The pattern has the details to add the closing flap if desired and this could easily be made on the larger or smaller bag.  The only real difference between the two is the material and hook size used to make them.   You can get really creative with this bag, choose different colours, add the flap or not, add the fringe of not and you get multiple variations.   In fact I think when the weather gets hot this will be a great cool project to make in multiple designs and colours.

The free pattern for both options of the crochet Festival Bag can be found below, but you can also purchase the ad free pdf for a small fee from my Etsy shop here. I hope that you enjoy this pattern and love making and using this bag as much as I did/do!   I look forward to seeing everyones creations and maybe making some more of my own.

See you next week,

Vicky x

Festival Bag 
  1. Materials and Resources

Below is a list of everything you will need to make this bag

  • For the smaller bag – Lily Sugar n Cream – 4 x 70g balls in any colours you choose – I used taupe;
  • For the larger Bag – Bernat Home Maker Dec – 350g in any colour you choose – I used black
  • 5mm (small size) or 8mm (large size) hook
  • 2 fat quarters for lining
  • Magnetic bag clip or zip for preferred fastening
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  1. Stitch List

Below is a list of all the stitches (and their abbreviations) featured in this pattern.  All terms used are American.

  • Sc – single crochet
  • Ch – chain
  • inc – increase
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • Dc – double crochet
  • Trc – treble crochet
  • m/c – magic circle
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • f/l – front loops
  1. Notes

Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.

  • There is no specific gauge for this bag, the smaller bag size squares are 8cm across and the larger squares are 12cm across.
  • The bag is constructed by making granny squares which are then crocheted together to form the bag. The fringe and lining are added and the strap is the finishing touch.
  • The finished bags measure 26cm square (small bag) and 36cm square (large bag). Both measurements exclude the fringe.
  • The bag has the option of different closing methods, you could use a zip or magnetic bag clasp to close as the small bag, or add a flap with loop and flower to close as on the large bag.
  1. Pattern

Festival Square – work 18 squares for main bag and 3 additional squares if making the bag with a flap closing

Row Instruction Stitches
1 5 sc in m/c, sl st 5
2 Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc in same stitch, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1) x 4, sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch 10 dc
3 Sc in each dc and ch all around, sl st 20
4 (sc inc) x 20, sl st 40
5 (2 sc, hdc, dc, trc, ch 2, trc, dc, hdc, 2 sc) x 4, sl st 40 & 4 ch 2 corners
  Cast off and sew in all ends  

 

Flower – work 1 for flap closing

Row Instruction Stitches
1 5 sc in m/c 5
2 (sc inc) x 5 10
3 Sc around 10
4  In f/l only [ (sc, hdc, dc, trc, ch 1) in 1st stitch, (trc, dc, hdc, sc) in 2nd stitch ] * 5 , sl st and cast off with a long tail 40
5 Use the long tail to weave around the back loops of round 4 and pull tight to form a dome, leave long tail to sew to bag.  

To put bag together;

  1. Lay out your squares in 3 rows, each row should have 6 squares in it.
  2. Sc the squares together to create a grid 6 x 3 then sew in all the ends.
  3. Fold the bag in half so you have 3 x 3 squares to form the front and 3 x 3 squares to form the back of the bag. Make sure all the sc rows face outwards on the bag and sc the sides of the bag together.   Sew in the ends.
  4. Sc around the top edge of the bag to neaten it up. Sew in ends.
  5. To add the fringe I turned the bag upside down and followed this tutorial; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ydGcCOp4e6E . My fringe is about 10cm long but you can make it longer or shorter as required.

Lining and closing the bag;

  1. Now is a good time to line the bag and decide how you are going to close it.
  2. The easiest way to line the bag is to cut out 2 squares 2 inches bigger in each direction than the size of your bag. Sew 3 sides of the pieces together.   Place the lining inside your bag so that the seams cannot be seen once the lining is in place.  Pin the lining to the top of the bag folding down the edges.   If you are using a magnetic bag clasp then it will need to be added before you sew the lining to the bag.   If you are using a zip you can pin this and sew at the same time as the lining.   Finish the lining by sewing it to the top of the bag.
  3. If you are going to add a flap then sc 3 squares together in 1 row and sc around the edge of the flap, make sure to add a ch loop in the centre of the long side of the flap (you will need to adjust this to the size of your flower – I used ch 8 for the large bag). Sew in all ends
  4. Then sc the flap to the top edge of the back of the bag only.
  5. Sew the flower in between the 1st and 2nd rows on the front centre of the bag in line with the ch 8 to secure the bag shut.

 

The bag Strap;

  1. Decide how long you want your strap to be and then cut a length of yarn 4 times longer than you want the strap. You will need to cut 18 strands this length.
  2. Fold each of the strands in half and make a slip knot through the top two squares on the right hand side of the bag. Divide the strands into 3 equal portions with 12 strands in each piece and plait until you have around 10-15 cm left.
  3. Check your strap is the right length here (you can make it smaller if needed) Use the remaining cords to tie through the top left hand corners to secure the strap to the bag. After knotting cut the ends to form a neat and even tassel to finish the bag off.

OPTIONAL EXTRAS;

  1. Use any left over pieces of yarn to make a matching tassel keyring.
  2. Make a matching purse using 2 squares sc together and add a lining, zip and fringe to complete a matching set.
© All patterns on this page belong to www.cosycrochet.co.uk You may not sell this pattern. Please feel free to sell the items you make using this pattern, however please acknowledge me in your listing.
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Tunisian Rainbow Seashell Purse

Last year I released a Seashell Handbag pattern, that was created off the back of my Mermaid Adventure bag.   I nearly didn’t release the pattern as I wasn’t sure anyone would like it, however, it seems this pattern is a definite favourite with you all as it has very quickly become my most successful pattern that I have ever released.   The little seashell purse I am releasing today is an accessory that matches perfectly with the seashell handbag and I hope will be equally as successful as the handbag.

This little pattern encompasses two of the goals I set at the beginning of the year for myself, to experiment more with Tunisian crochet, and to work through my stash.  This is the perfect pattern to use up any small amounts of cotton you have lying around, I changed colour every 3 rows for this pattern, however you could change colour more often if you have even small amounts of cotton to use up, it would just make your rainbow even more detailed.   This is also a Tunisian crochet project, but one that is very beginner friendly if you have not tried it before.   It only uses the Tunisian simple stitch and an increase stitch, and as the project is so small it an even be completed on a regular crochet hook if you do not have a Tunisian hook at home.

I know that usually in Tunisian crochet you would pick a hook size that is a couple of sizes bigger than recommended for the yarn, but in this case I have deliberately chosen a smaller size than recommended.   I did this so as to ensure that there are no gaps in the stitches to allow money to slip through, and since the purse is attached to a purse clip and all sides are joined together any curl you get when starting this purse is eliminated by the time you have finished.   I used an 8.5cm rectangular purse clip, the kind with holes in it so you can sew onto it.   You could probably used a glue on one if you prefer, but it was not the route I wanted to go to create this purse.

I hope you enjoy this cute little Tunisian Crochet Rainbow Seashell Purse pattern which you can find below.  Next week I will be sharing the pattern to my Festival Bag.   See you then,

Vicky x

Tunisian Rainbow Seashell Purse  
  1. Materials and Resources

Below is a list of everything you will need to make this purse;

  • Paintbox Simply DK – small amounts in the colours of your choice, I choose the following colours;
    • White, pink, purple, blue, green and yellow
  • 5mm hook
  • Tapestry needle (small needle to sew through purse holes)
  • Scissors
  • Rectangle purse clip 8.5cm long with sewing holes
  1. Stitch List

Below is a list of all the stitches (and their abbreviations) featured in this pattern.  All terms used are American.

  • Sc – single crochet
  • Ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • TSS – Tunisian simple stitch
  • Inc – increase – pull up a loop in the top bar of the stitch
  • FP – forward pass
  • RP – Return pass (pull all loops of the hook as usual unless otherwise specified)
  1. Notes

Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.

  • The gauge for this purse is 24 stitches and 18 rows in a 10cm square in TSS
  • The seashell pieces are made separately and then joined to the purse.
  • There is a sewing and sc row around the purse clip before you can attach the seashell pieces.
  • The edges of the seashell are joined at the end.
  • This pattern is perfect for using up odds and ends of colours from your scraps
  • The finished purse is 12cm wide (at its widest point and 10cm tall
  • The purse is not lined, as it uses a small hook it will easily contain coins without them falling out, but you can line if you want to.
  1. Pattern

Seashell – make 2, starting in white

Row Instruction Stitches
1 5 sc in m/c, close circle and turn 5
2-3 FP – TSS across, RP 6
4 Change to pink  FP – (inc, TSS) x 5, RP 11
5-6 FP – TSS across, RP 11
7 Change to purple  FP – (TSS, inc) x 3 TSS (TSS, inc) x 3, TSS, TSS, RP 16
8-9 FP – TSS across, RP 16
10 Change to blue  FP – (TSS, TSS, inc) x 6, TSS, TSS, RP 21
11-12 FP – TSS across, RP 21
13 Change to green  FP – (4 TSS, inc) x 4, 5 TSS, RP 26
14-15 FP – TSS across, RP 26
16 Change to yellow  RP – (5 TSS, inc) x 5, TSS, RP 31
17 FP – TSS across, RP 31
18 Cast off with sc method (insert hook through bar, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops) 30

Purse Clip – work in yellow

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Using yellow cotton and a small needle, back stitch around the purse clip holes (see fig 1 below) work loosely so you can crochet into each stitch.
2 Sc around the edge of the purse going into each stitch made above, you need to work 3 sc in to each join across the sides (see fig 2 below) 60
3 Still using yellow, sc the first seashell piece to one half of the purse clip and the second piece to the second half. (see fig 3 below) 60
4 Using white sc the two open sides of the purse together, put 1 stitch in each row and 3 in the middle stitch at the point
5 Using white, sc around the top of each purse edge
Sew in all ends

figure 1

figure 2

figure 3

© All patterns on this page belong to www.cosycrochet.co.uk You may not sell this pattern. Please feel free to sell the items you make using this pattern, however please acknowledge me in your listing.
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Humpback Whale Costume

This week I have finally gotten around to getting my humpback whale jumper sorted and ready for you.  This pattern was written for Oliver for his world book day costume.   This year his school had a Julia Donaldson theme, and as soon as he knew this, Oliver picked the humpback whale from his favourite book, the Snail and the Whale.   After a little looking online, it soon became apparent that I wouldn’t be able to buy a costume, he needed one making.    As luck would have it, Aldi had one of their yarn specials on at the time and their aran yarn had the colours grey and white which were the perfect match for this costume.

After getting all of Oliver’s measurements I set to work.   The jumper is mostly constructed in parts, a back, front, tail and details are all made separately and sewn together.   The hood and the arms are worked off the jumper as it is constructed.    I knew that I wanted the back of the jumper to be grey, and the front white with the lines you get on the front of a humpback whale.   The hood needed to have blow holes and eyes, and the back needed the hump, whilst the sleeves needed to double up as whale flippers.   After a period of considerable thinking, I was able to come up with this jumper design and I have to say I was very pleased with the way it came out, and Oliver loved his costume too.   In fact, as far as I am aware, he was the only humpback whale to come to school for world book day.

I have only worked this pattern up in age 5-6, however, it is fairly easily adaptable.   You could add or subtract stitches and rows to the front and back panels to make the jumper smaller or larger.   The sleeves would work in the same way, as would the hood.   All the details should be able to remain the same.   I did also make a snail which was attached via a keyring onto the tail, but as that was a direct copy from the book illustration, I have decided not to publish that pattern due to copywrite laws.   However, I am sure that if you wanted, there are many snail patterns that could be used as an alternative.

You can find the pattern for the Humpback Whale Jumper below, I hope that you enjoy making it, and I would love to see your finished jumpers on any of my social media profiles.   Next week I will be sharing with you a little surprise pattern that should work up in just a few hours.   Join me then to find out more.

Vicky x

Humpback Whale Jumper (age 5-6) 
  1. Materials and Resources

Below is a list of everything you will need to make this jumper

  • Aran yarn in the following colours;
    • Grey – 375g
    • White – 150g
    • Small amount of dark grey to eyes and blow holes
  • Tapestry needle
  • A little stuffing for the hump
  • Scissors
  1. Stitch List

Below is a list of all the stitches (and their abbreviations) featured in this pattern.  All terms used are American.

  • Sc – single crochet
  • Ch – chain
  • inc – increase
  • dec – decrease
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • Dc – double crochet
  • b/l – back loops
  • f/l – front loops
  • m/c – magic circle
  • sl st – slip stitch
  1. Notes

Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.

  • The gauge for this jumper is worked in sc and has 18 rows and 14 stitches in a 10cm square.
  • The jumper is made in pieces which are sewn together.
  • The finished jumper has a chest size of 70cm, and a body length of 40cm (not including the hood or the tail). It is designed to fit a child of age 5-6 with a bit of growing room.
  • You need to ch 1 and turn at the end of each row for all pieces except the sleeves.
  • The sleeves are mostly worked in the round and to avoid the seams they are worked without joining, in continuous rounds.
  1. Pattern

Jumper Back – work in grey

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 53, sk 1st ch from hook and sc to end, turn 52
2-73 Sc across, turn 52
74 Sc across and cast off 52

Jumper front – work in white (only sc are included in stitch count)

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 67, sk 1st ch from hook and sc to end, turn 66
2-19 Sc across in b/l, turn 66
20 Sl st, 65 sc in b/l, turn 65
21 64 sc in b/l, sl st, turn 64
22 Sk sl st, sl st, 63 sc in b/l, turn 63
23 62 sc in b/l, sl st, turn 62
24 Sk sl st, sl st, 61 sc in b/l, turn 61
25 60 sc in b/l, sl st, turn 60
26 Sk sl st, sl st, 59 sc in b/l, turn 59
27 58 sc in b/l, sl st, turn 58
28 Sk sl st, sl st, 57 sc in b/l, turn 57
29 56 sc in b/l, sl st, turn 56
30 Sk sl st, sl st, 55 sc in b/l, turn 55
31 54 sc in b/l, sl st, turn 54
32 Sk sl st, sl st, 53 sc in b/l, turn 53
33 52 sc in b/l, sl st, turn 52
34 Sk sl st, sc in b/l, turn 52
35 51 sc in b/l, sc inc in b/l, ch 1, turn 53
36 Sc in 2nd ch from hook, 53 sc in b/l, turn 54
37 53 sc in b/l, sc inc in b/l, ch 2 turn 55
38 Sc in 2nd ch from hook, 55 sc in b/l, ch 1 turn 56
39 55 sc in b/l, sc inc in b/l, ch 2, turn 57
40 Sc in 2nd ch from hook, 57 sc in b/l, turn 58
41 57 sc in n/l, sc inc b/l, ch 2 turn 59
42 Sc in 2nd ch from hook, 59 sc in b/l, turn 60
43 59 sc in b/l, sc inc in b/l, ch 2, turn 61
44 Sc in 2nd ch from hook, 61 sc in b/l, turn 62
45 61 sc in b/l, sc inc in b/l, ch 2, turn 63
46 Sc in 2nd ch from hook, 63 sc in b/l, turn 64
47 63 sc in b/l, sc inc in b/l, ch 2, turn 65
48 Sc in 2nd ch from hook, 65 sc in b/l, turn 66
49-65 Sc in b/l, turn 66
66 Sc in b/l, cast off 66

To Assemble Front and Back of Jumper;

  • Lay the back of the jumper down with the rows horizontally. Place the front of the jumper on top of the back with the rows vertically.
  • Sew rows 1-19 of the front to the left side of the back of the jumper.
  • Sew rows 49-66 of the front of the jumper to the right side of the back, this will form the shoulders. Leave rows 20-48 unworked for the head to fit in.
  • Sew 50 rows (grey panel) down the sides starting from the bottom. This makes the sides of the jumper.  The remaining 24 rows are not to be sewn together as they will form the arm holes.
  • You should now have a jumper with 2 arm holes and a head hole. Sew in all ends and turn the jumper the right way out.

Sleeves – work in grey, 1 on each side of the jumper

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Attach yarn in the middle bottom of the arm hole and sc around for 45 stitches 45
2 Sc around 45
3 Dec, 43 sc 44
4-5 Sc around 44
6 42 sc, dec 43
7-8 Sc around 43
9 Dec, 41 sc 42
10-11 Sc around 42
12 40 sc, dec 41
13-14 Sc around 41
15 39 sc, dec 40
16-17 Sc around 40
18 Dec, 38 sc 39
19-20 Sc around 39
21 37 sc, dec 38
22-23 Sc around 38
24 Dec, 36 sc 37
25-26 Sc around 37
27-65 Sc around 37
66 Dec, 33sc, dec, turn 35
67 Dec, 31 sc, dec, turn 33
68 Dec, 29 sc, dec, turn 31
69 Dec, 27 sc, dec, turn 29
70 Dec, 25 sc, dec, turn 27
71 Dec, 23 sc, dec, turn 25
72 Dec, 21 sc, dec, turn 23
73 Dec, 19 sc, dec, turn 21
74 Dec, 17 sc, dec, turn 19
75 Dec, 15 sc, dec, turn 17
76 Dec, 13 sc, dec, turn 15
77 Dec, 11 sc, dec, turn 13
78 Dec, 9 sc, dec, turn 11
79 Dec, 7 sc, dec, turn 9
80 Dec, 5 sc, dec, turn 7
81 Dec, 3 sc, dec, turn 5
82 Dec, sc, dec, turn 3
83 Sc 3 tog, cast off and sew in ends 1

Hood – work in grey – with the jumper facing you, count 10 rows to the right on the front of the jumper, starting from the right edge of the left shoulder and attach yarn

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Place 1 sc in each row on the front, then sc in each stitch on the back panel, and finally work 1 sc in the next 10 rows of the front (to the left of the left shoulder), turn 37
2-43 Sc around, turn 37
Cast off and fold top edge in half, and sew shut on the inside of the hood.   Sew in ends.

Hood edging– work in grey – with the jumper facing you, attach yarn at the corner of the hood

Row Instruction Stitches
1 86 sc, add 1 sc into the next white row, turn 87
2 87 sc, add 1 sc into the next white row, turn 88
3 88 sc, add 1 sc into the next white row, turn 89
4 89 sc, add 1 sc into the next white row, turn 90
5 90 sc, add 1 sc into the next white row, turn 91
6 91 sc, add 1 sc into the next white row, turn 92
7 92 sc, add 1 sc into the next white row, turn 93
8 93 sc, add 1 sc into the next white row, turn 94
9 94 sc, add 1 sc into the next white row, turn 95
10 95 sc, add 1 sc into the next white row, turn 96
11 96 sc, add 1 sc into the next white row, turn 97
12 97 sc, add 1 sc into the next white row, DO NOT TURN 98
13 5 sc in next 5 white rows, sc in the middle of the v. And then 5 sc in the remaining white rows, sl st to starting stitch of row 12 and cast off 109

 

Whale Eyes – work 2 starting in dark grey

Row Instruction Stitches
1 6 sc in m/c 6
2 (sc inc) x 6 12
3 Change to grey, 2 sc, hdc inc, dc inc, hdc inc, 3 sc, hdc inc, dc inc, hdc inc, sc 18
4 Work in f/l, 5 sc, ch 1 , 9 sc, ch 1 , 4 sc, sl st, cast off with a long tail

Sew eyes to hood 14 rows below the top seam, just before the hood edging.

Blow Holes – in dark grey

Row Instruction Stitches
1 6 sc in m/c 6
2 Sc inc, sc inc, hdc-ch 1-hdc, sc inc, sc inc, hdc-ch1-hdc, sl st, cast off with a long tail 12

Sew next to each other on the back of the hood in line with the eyes.

Hump – in light grey

Row Instruction Stitches
1 6 sc in m/c 6
2 (sc inc) x 6 12
3 (sc, sc inc) x 6 18
4 (2 sc, sc inc) x 6 24
5 (3 sc, sc inc) x 6 30
6 (4 sc, sc inc) x 6 36
Sl st and cast off with a long tail

Sew blow hole to middle, back of the jumper, 22 rows from the bottom, stuff as you attach.

Bottom Edging – In grey

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Attach yarn to bottom of jumper and sc around the bottom edge 118
2-5 Repeat row 1 118
Sl st, Cast off and sew in all ends

Tail – work in 1 grey and 1 in white

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, turn 3
2 Sc across, turn 3
3 Inc, sc, inc, turn 5
4 Sc across, turn 5
5 Inc, 3 sc, inc, turn 7
6 Sc across, turn 7
7 Inc, 5 sc, inc, turn 9
8 Sc across, turn 9
9 Inc, 7 sc, inc, turn 11
10 Sc across, turn 11
11 Inc, 9 sc, inc, turn 13
12 Sc across, turn 13
13 Inc, 11 sc, inc, turn 15
14 Sc across, turn 15
15 Inc, 13 sc, inc, turn 17
16 Sc across, turn 17
17 Inc, 15 sc, inc, turn 19
18 Sc across, turn 19
19 Inc, 17 sc, inc, turn 21
20 Sc across, turn 21
21 Inc, 19 sc, inc, turn 23
22 Sc across, turn 23
23 Inc, 21 sc, inc, turn 25
24-28 Sc across, turn 25
29 Dec, 23 sc, turn 24
30 22 sc, dec, turn 23
31 Dec, 21sc, turn 22
32 20 sc, dec, turn 21
33 Dec, 19 sc, turn 20
34 19 sc, inc, ch 2, turn 21
35 Sc in 2nd ch from hook, 21 sc, turn 22
36 21 sc, inc, ch 2 turn 23
37 Sc in 2nd ch from hook, 23 sc, turn 24
38 24 sc, inc, turn 25
39-43 Sc across, turn 25
44 Dec, 21 sc, dec, turn 23
45 Sc across, turn 23
46 Dec, 19 sc, dec, turn 21
47 Sc across, turn 21
48 Dec, 17 sc, dec, turn 19
49 Sc across, turn 19
50 Dec, 15 sc, dec, turn 17
51 Sc across, turn 17
52 Dec, 13 sc, dec, turn 15
53 Sc across, turn 15
54 Dec, 11 sc, dec, turn 13
55 Sc across, turn
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Cosy Crochet by Cosycrochet - 1M ago

Stripy Market Bag

This week, I would like to share with you another stash busting project, the Stripy Market Bag.   As many of you will already know, I have made it a goal of mine to work through my stash and use it all up this year.   This project was a great stash busting project, as it used loads of odd pieces of yarn I had laying around from the ends of other projects, as well as some that I had bought as extra to what was needed.   In fact between this bag and the Tropical Fish Pattern I shared last week, all my In the Zone yarn has now been used up!

This pattern uses a little under 300g of yarn and works up quickly, I completed it within a few hours.  I used the colours I happened to have at home; orange, denim, yellow, pink and turquoise as the accent colours, and the majority of the bag is in white as I had the most of that in my stash.   You can however, use whichever colours you have in your stash.   This yarn is super stretchy and it works really well for putting a load of stuff in when out shopping, in fact it easily handled 26 100g balls of cotton the other day!   Since I used Knitcraft’s In the Zone yarn, which is know is only available at Hobbycraft in the UK, there are other comparable yarns which can be used too.   Bernat’s Home Maker Dec yarn is similar, although a little thicker, and whilst I haven’t actually tried it,  James C Brett’s Noodles yarn is also similar.  This yarn is a tube like yarn made from 100% polyester so I imagine anything similar should work, you just may have a slightly different sized bag to mine.

The pattern for the Stripy Market Bag is available for FREE below.

Join me next week for the Humpback Whale Costume pattern.

Vicky x

Stripy Market Bag 
  1. Materials and Resources

Below is a list of everything you will need to make this bag;

  • 300g of KnitCraft in the Zone yarn in any colours (I used left overs in denim, turquoise, orange, pink and yellow for half, and the other half in white.
  • 6mm hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  1. Stitch List

Below is a list of all the stitches (and their abbreviations) featured in this pattern.  All terms used are American.

  • Ch – chain
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • sl st – slip stitch
  1. Notes

Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.

  • There is no specific gauge for this bag, different gauges will give a slightly different size, but it doesn’t really matter if it is slightly bigger or smaller as there is quite a bit of stretch in it.
  • If you cannot get hold of knitcraft in the zone yarn, then comparable yarns are Bernat Home Maker Dec and James C Brett noodles.
  • The bottom of the bag is worked in rows and then joined into a bag shape you will need to ch 1 and turn at the end of each round.
  • The top of the bag is made in rounds; when working in the rounds you will not sl st to join, just keep working in continuous rounds.
  • This bag was made up mostly of left over yarn from other projects, I will note the colour I change to, but you can change to any colour you have available.
  • My finished bag measured 55cm high and 40cm wide after use.  This bag has a lot of stretch in it.
  1. Pattern

Bag Base – start in white

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 61, sk 1st ch and hdc across 60
2-4 Hdc across 60
5-8 Change to yellow, hdc across 60
9-12 Change to white, hdc across 60
13-16 Change to orange, hdc across 60
17-20 Change to white, hdc across 60
21-24 Change to pink, hdc across 60
25-28 Change to white, hdc across 60
29-32 Change to turquoise, hdc across 60
33-36 Change to white, hdc across 60
37-40 Change to denim, hdc across 60
41-44 Change to white, hdc across 60
  Cast of and sew in ends  
  Fold the bag in half and sew both sides shut  

Bag top – start in white

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Attach yarn at any point around the bag and hdc around (put 1 hdc in each row and 1 in each side seam) 90
2-4 Hdc around 90
5-8 Change to yellow, hdc around 90
9-11 Change to orange, hdc around 90
12-14 Change to pink, hdc around 90
15-17 Change to turquoise, hdc around 90
18 12 hdc, ch 20, sk 20, 25 hdc, ch 20, sk 20, 13 hdc 90
19 Change to denim, 12 hdc, 30 hdc in ch 20 sp, 25 hdc, 30 hdc in ch 20 sp, 13 hdc 110
20-21 Hdc around 110
  Sl st and cast off  
  Sew in ends  

Optional extra:   use any leftover yarn from this project to make a tassel to add to the bag.

© All patterns on this page belong to www.cosycrochet.co.uk You may not sell this pattern. Please feel free to sell the items you make using this pattern, however please acknowledge me in your listing.
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Tropical Fish

Having spent the last few months working on a couple of series of patterns, I want to spend a few weeks putting out some quick, easy stand along patterns for you.   These will be stash buster patterns that you can use up yarn that you have lying in your stash, or use up some of those scrap yarn pieces you have lying around.   This weeks pattern, the Tropical fish, is the latter, and uses approximately 40g of yarn and the colour changes can just be made when you naturally run out of a colour.   This creates a totally unique design every time you make one.   In addition to being great for using up your scraps, this project is a 1-2 hour project (depending on your crochet speed) and can be made in any weight yarn you have lying around.

This pattern is a practically no sew pattern, so if like me you don’t love sewing arms and decorations to your amigurumi, then this pattern is for you.   The fish is made in 1 piece from head to tail and uses surface crochet to make the side and dorsal fins, so by the time you finish your fish it is only the tails that have to be sewn through to body to finish it off.    I used 7mm crochet eyes on this fish, but it would be fun to experiment with different sizes and colours to add to the unique colour changes created from using your scraps.

The pattern for this tropical fish can be found below.   I hope you enjoy making this pattern and please share your Tropical Fish creations on any social media channels and tag me in it so I can see your lovely creations.    Join me next week for another scrap buster project, the stripy market bag.

Vicky x

Tropical Fish 
  1. Materials and Resources

Below is a list of everything you will need to make this fish;

  • About 40g of any worsted/aran weight yarn in any colours (I used Knitcraft In the Zone)
  • 4mm hook
  • Stuffing
  • 2 x 7mm Safety Eyes
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  • Stitch marker 
  1. Stitch List

Below is a list of all the stitches (and their abbreviations) featured in this pattern. All terms used are American.

  • Sc – single crochet
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc inc – sc increase
  • Sc dec – sc decrease
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • Dc – double crochet
  • Trc – treble crochet
  • Dtrc – double treble crochet
  • m/c – magic circle
  • sl st – slip stitch
  1. Notes

Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.

  • There is no specific gauge for this fish, just work as tightly as possible.
  • The side and dorsal fins are crocheted directly on to the fish at the end using surface crochet.
  • The only sewing required for this pattern is sewing in of the ends for the fins and the tail end.
  • My finished fish ended up being 18cm long and 10cm, but this will vary depending on the size of yarn and hook used
  • You can change colours in this fish wherever you like depending on how much yarn you have available.   This is a great stash busting project.
  1. Pattern

Fish (starting from the head) – work in any colour, I started with white

Row Instruction Stitches
1 6 sc in m/c 6
2 (sc, sc inc) x 3 9
3 (2 sc, sc inc) x 3 12
4 (3 sc, sc inc) x 3 15
5 (4 sc, sc inc) x 3 18
6 (5 sc, sc inc) x 3 21
7 (6 sc, sc inc) x 3 24
8 (3 sc, sc inc) x 6 30
9 (4 sc, sc inc) x 6 36
I switched to yellow here (you can choose to change or not)
10-24 Sc around 36
I switched to orange
25-27 Sc around 36
I switched to pink
28 Sc around 36
29 (4 sc, sc dec) x 6 30
Add safety eyes opposite one another between rows 10 and 11
30 (3 sc, sc dec) x 6 24
31 (2 sc, sc dec) x 6 18
Stuff fish
32 (sc, sc dec) x 6 12
33 (sc dec) x 6 6
34 Sc around 6
35 (sc inc) x 6 12
36 (sc, sc inc) x 6 18
37 (2 sc, sc inc) x 6 24
38 (3 sc, sc inc) x 6 30
I switched to yellow here
39 (4 sc, sc inc) x 6 36
40 (5 sc, sc inc) x 6 42
41 6 sc, then fold the fish tail in half, and sc through both halves to close the tail up.
Cast off and sew in end

Side Fins – work 2 (I used white)

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Start the fins 3 stitches and 3 rows below the eyes and attach yarn around 1 stitch using surface crochet
2 Then sc hdc around 1 stitch, 2 dc in same st, 2 trc in same st, 2 dc in same stitch, hdc sc in same stitch 10
Cast off and sew in ends

Dorsal Fin – work 1 (I used white)

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Attach the yarn around row 13, equal distance between the eyes with a surface sc then work as follows;
2 2 sc in same st, 2 hdc in same st, 2 dc in same st, 2 trc in same st, 2 dtrc in same st, 2 trc in same st, 2 dc in same st, 2 hdc in same st, 2 sc in same st 18
Cast off and sew in ends
© All patterns on this page belong to www.cosycrochet.co.uk You may not sell this pattern. Please feel free to sell the items you make using this pattern, however please acknowledge me in your listing.
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Cosy Crochet by Cosycrochet - 1M ago

Crochet Bunny Jumper Dress

This week I want to share with you my Easter project for the year.   In previous years I have always made toys and Easter baskets, but this year I wanted to do something slightly different, but still with the bunny theme.   After some experimentation I came up with the crochet Bunny Jumper Dress.

This jumper dress is made using aran/ worsted weight yarn in grey with details in white and black.   I was pleased that I managed to create the dress using less than 1 400g ball of yarn I had in my stash, plus I also had the odds in white and black to finish this project.   I do love it when I can create a whole project from yarn in my stash, since that is now a little less yarn I have to use up.

The jumper itself is pretty simple to create.   The front a back are created in rectangles which are sewn together, before adding the sleeves and edging.   The details in the jumper dress are what bring this to life.   The ears, eyes, nose and mouth are used to create a little face for the bunny, whilst the paws at the bottom also double up as pockets for storing anything your little bunny might need or want this Easter.   They would be a great advantage in any Easter egg hunt!   The back of the jumper dress also has a bunny tail for that added level of detail.

I created this dress for Lily so its approximately made for a 4-5 year old child, but the pattern could easily be adapted to suite a different size.   To adapt this you will need to know the chest measurement of the child you want to make it for.   Once you know this add about 4 cm to this measurement and then add or subtract stitches to the starting chain for the front and back pieces as required.   It  maybe helpful to make your gauge swatch first to check your measurements.   More or less rows can also be added to adjust the length of the dress and sleeves.   The details of the dress should stay the same but they may need arranging differently.

As time permits, I may add additional sizes to this pattern, but for now please enjoy this size for Free below.   Join me next week for a new Adventure Bag pattern.

Vicky x

Crochet Bunny Jumper Dress (age 4-5)

Materials and Resources

Below is a list of everything you will need to make this jumper

  • Aran/ worsted weight yarn in the following colours;
    • Grey – 350g
    • Small amounts of white and black
  • 5mm hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  • Stitch marker
  1. Stitch List

Below is a list of all the stitches (and their abbreviations) featured in this pattern.  All terms used are American.

  • Sc – single crochet
  • Ch – chain
  • inc – single crochet increase
  • dec – single crochet decrease
  • dc inc – double crochet increase
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • Dc – double crochet
  • Trc – treble crochet
  • Bphdc – back post half double crochet
  • Fphdc – front post half double crochet
  • m/c – magic circle
  • sl st – slip stitch
  1. Notes

Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.

  • The gauge for this jumper is 17 rows and 14 stitches in a 10cm sc square.
  • The finished jumper measures 60cm long and 56cm round. The sleeves are 26cm long
  • Try to arrange the paws, ears, eyes and nose and pin before you sew to stop them getting off centre as they are sewn on.
  • The bunny paws act as pockets
  • The main jumper is worked in rows, you will need to ch 1 and turn at the end of the rows.
  • For the parts of the pattern worked in the round; sleeves and edging, you will work in continuous rounds without joining or
  • chaining 1. A stitch marker may help you keep count of rows.
  1. Pattern

Front & Back – work both pieces in grey

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 46, sk 1st ch from hook and sc to end of ch 45
2 Sc across 45
3-100 Sc across 45
  Cast off  

You now need to sew the front and back of the jumper as follows;

  1. Lay both pieces on top of each other, at the top of the jumper you will need to sew the shoulders together first. 12 stitches from either side will be sewn together and 21 stitches in the middle will remain open to allow the head through. (see short arrows on diagram below)
  2. Working from the top down, leave 23 rows on either side open for the arm holes and sew the remaining 77 rows together. (see long arrows on diagram below)

Sleeves – work two in grey directly off the jumper

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Attach yarn in the middle bottom of the arm hole and sc around for 45 stitches 45
2 Sc around 45
3 Dec, 43 sc 44
4-5 Sc around 44
6 42 sc, dec 43
7-8 Sc around 43
9 Dec, 41 sc 42
10-11 Sc around 42
12 40 sc, dec 41
13-14 Sc around 41
15 39 sc, dec 40
16-17 Sc around 40
18 Dec, 38 sc 39
19-20 Sc around 39
21 37 sc, dec 38
22-23 Sc around 38
24 Dec, 36 sc 37
25-26 Sc around 37
27 35 sc, dec 36
28-30 Sc around 36
31 Dec, 34 sc 35
32-40 Sc around 35
41-45 (fphdc, bphdc) rep around 35
  Cast off and sew in ends  

Neck and Bottom edging – work in grey for 2 rows each of repeating fphdc and bphdc.

Ears – work two in grey and 2 in white

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 21, sk ch, inc, 18 sc, 5 sc in end ch, working up the other side of the ch, 18 sc, 3 sc in the starting inc stitch, sl st , ch 1 46
2 Inc, inc, 18 sc, inc, inc, inc, inc, inc, 18 sc, inc, inc, inc, sl st, ch 1 56
3 Inc, inc, 22 sc, inc, inc, inc, inc, inc, 22 sc, inc, inc, inc, sl st, ch 1 64
4 20 sc, 8 hdc, 10 dc inc, 8 hdc, 20 sc, sl st and cast off 76
5  Holding 1 grey and white together, with the white side facing you, sc the pieces together around the edge 76
  Sew in all ends  

Pockets – work two in white

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 19, sk ch and sc to end 18
2-17 Sc across 18
18 17 sc, across the top of the work (along the sides of the rows and then continue to work in this direction for the remainder of the paws0 17
19 Dec, 13 sc, dec 15
20 Dec, 11 sc, dec 13
21 Dec, 9 sc, dec 11
22 Dec, 7 sc, dec 9
23 Dec, hdc, 3 dc, hdc , dec 7
  Sl st and cast off  
  Sew bunny finger lines in black  

Nose – work 1 in black

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 5, sk ch, 4 sc 4
2 4 sc 4
3 Dec, dec 2
4 Dec 1
  Cast off  

Eyes – work two in black

Row Instruction Stitches
1 6 sc in m/c 6
2 (sc inc) X 6 12
  Sl st and cast off  

To finish;

  • Arrange eyes, nose, paws and ears on the front of the jumper and pin in place when you are happy.
  • Sew the pieces in place using black yarn for the eyes and nose (also add a black mouth), white yarn for the pocket paws (remember not to sew up the top) and grey yarn for the ears.
  • Make a large grey pom pom and sew to the back of the jumper to make the bunny tail.
  • Sew in all ends.
© All patterns on this page belong to www.cosycrochet.co.uk You may not sell this pattern. Please feel free to sell the items you make using this pattern, however please acknowledge me in your listing.
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Cosy Crochet by Cosycrochet - 1M ago

Honeycomb stripped Bow Pouch

This week is the final week of the crochet bow series and I wanted to use the bow in a slightly different way.   So instead of attaching it to a crocodile clip to put in your hair, I have attached it to this cute little pouch.   The Honeycomb stitch has been my favourite Tunisian crochet stitch for a while, but learning to work Tunisian crochet in the round has definitely opened up different possibilities for this stitch.   I love how this has made the hexagons stand out more using two different colours.

The main body of the pouch has been worked using honeycomb in the round and this is then closed shut at one end.   The flap is worked flat, using different colours for the forward and return passes to create a stripped honeycomb look for the flap.   I finished the pouch up by adding a zip and lining, which although totally optional, does prevent anything you put in this little pouch from falling through.   The pouch flap is secured with a magnetic bag clasp and the finished two toned bow secures this in place.   I also added a little hanging loop for the pouch too.

You will need a double ended Tunisian crochet hook for this pattern, but once you get into the rhythm of this it works up quickly.   I used the Knitcraft In the Zone yarn from Hobbycraft and I love the clean and soft look you get with this yarn.   If you wanted a similar look but can’t get this particular yarn, then it is similar to the Bernat Home Maker Dec and James C Brett Noodle yarns.

You can get the pattern for this Honeycomb Stripped Bow Pouch for FREE below, and maybe you could use this to store all the Mix and Match Bows you make from the previous weeks patterns.   I hope you enjoy making your pouch.   Join me next week for some Easter themed patterns.  See you then,

Vicky x

Honeycomb Striped Bow Pouch 
  1. Materials and Resources

Below is a list of everything you will need to make this —

  • Knitcraft in the zone – 100g balls in any 2 colours you choose – I used the following colours;
    • blue
    • white
  • 8mm double ended Tunisian hook & 6mm hook
  • Small amount of fabric (about 28cm x 20cm for lining)
  • 1 magnetic bag clasp
  • 23cm zip
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  1. Stitch List

Below is a list of all the stitches (and their abbreviations) featured in this pattern.  All terms used are American.

  • Sc – single crochet
  • Ch – chain
  • TH – Tunisian honeycomb stitch
  • TSS – Tunisian simple stitch
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • MC – main colour
  • CC – contrasting colour
  • RP – return pass
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  1. Notes

Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.

  • Gauge – 8 stitches and 9 rows in 10 cm square in honeycomb stitch
  • The main pouch is worked in the round, but the flap is added and worked flat which gives a slightly different look.
  • The finished pouch measures 24cm long and 16cm tall.
  1. Pattern

Main pouch – work in MC to start with (blue)

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 66, sl st to join 66
2 Tss around 66
3 RP in CC 66
4 TH around in MC 66
5 RP in CC 66
6-23 Rep rows 4-5 66
24 Close the pouch and sc it shut using MC and 6mm hook 33
  Cast off  
25 using MC in 6mm hook, attach yarn at right hand side of pouch,  ch 21, sk ch and sc in each ch to end, sl st to next st on pouch and Sc around the top edge of the pouch 66
  Insert the bottom of the magnetic bag clasp in the centre of the pouch 2 rows down from the top  

Flap– start in MC

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Pull up 32 loops in MC on 1 side with the pouch facing away from you (loop should be on left) 32
2 RP in CC, turn 32
3 TH in MC 32
4 RP in CC, turn 32
5-14 Rep rows 3 and 4 32
  Cast of in MC 32
15 Sc around the edge of the pouch flap in MC using 6mm hook,  
  Insert top of magnetic bag clasp in the centre of the flap2 rows up from the edge.  

Bow– start in MC in 6mm hook

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 25, sk ch and hdc across, ch 1, turn 25
2-3 Hdc across, ch 1, turn 25
4 Sl st small ends together to form a ring.  
  Using CC wind a length around the centre tightly to form bow, then sew to pouch over the top of magnetic bag clasp.  

To finish;

  • If desired, sew zip and lining to the pouch.
© All patterns on this page belong to www.cosycrochet.co.uk You may not sell this pattern. Please feel free to sell the items you make using this pattern, however please acknowledge me in your listing.
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Mix and Match Hair Bows

This week is the third and final installment in the hair bow series and I will be sharing with you my 6 motif patterns to personalize your bows.   (You can find the patterns for the bows here; Part 1, Part 2) These motifs really add something special to the hair bows and you can have fun deciding on the colours they will be and on what bow you will add them.   The designs include, unicorns, mermaid tails, flowers, a little rainbow and cloud, a polar bear and a heart.   These designs were worked in 4 ply cotton and although you could work them using a larger cotton, the smaller ply allows the details to be seen easier.

Now you have all the patterns for the bows and the motifs I can’t wait to see how you mix and match them, and what colours you choose to make them in.   The way I have them is only a fraction of the number of different bows these can be used to make.   When you make them I would love to see the pictures of them so don’t forget to share them on my social media sites and use the hashtag #mixandmatchhairbows, which combination will you make first.   If you prefer the ad free pdf version of this pattern then you can find it on my Etsy Store here.

The patterns for the motif’s can be found at the end of this post, but please join me next week to get the pattern for my Honeycomb bow pouch, which is the perfect accessory to store all your new hair bows in.   See you next week,

Vicky x

Mix and Match Hair Bows – Motif’s 
  1. Materials and Resources

Below is a list of everything you will need to make this —

  • DMC Petra size 3 cotton – small amounts in any colours (i used, yellow, white, pink, grey, blue, red and green)
  • Aldi DK sparkly yarn
  • 5mm hook or 5mm hook
  • Small crocodile clips & hot glue
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  1. Stitch List

Below is a list of all the stitches (and their abbreviations) featured in this pattern.  All terms used are American.

  • Sc – single crochet
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc inc – sc increase
  • Sc dec – sc decrease
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • m/c – magic circle
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • f/l – front loops
  • b/l – back loops
  • Bobble – 5dc in same stitch, pull up a loop on last stitch and take out hook, insert hook through 1st stitch, then pull loop through the stitch to complete bobble
  1. Notes

Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.

  • There is no specific gauge for these bows, just work as you like. They may come out a slightly different size to mine but this doesn’t really matter.
  • Once the bows are made then they are glued to the crocodile clips using hot glue in a glue gun. Once cooled they are ready for use.
  • I made the bows in pairs, but you could also just make them for individual use too.
  • Commas are use to divide stitches, if you see instructions that do not have a comma in between then they should be placed in the same stitch.
  • The mix and match bows can be made by making any of the 4 bow options below and then adding any of the motif patterns (or none) to the bows.
  • The bows use up odd amounts of yarn and can be done in most light weight yarns.
  1. Patterns – Bow Motif’s

Unicorn – work in grey

 

Row Instruction Stitches
1 6 sc in m/c, turn (creates semi circle which forms nose) 6
2 3 sc along flat side of semi circle. Turn 3 9plus 6 in semi circle)
3-6 Sc across, turn (ignore semi circle) 3
7 Ch 3 (creates ear), sc across, ch 5, turn 3
8 Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 3 chain’s, sc across next 3 sc 7
9 Sc across, turn 7
10 6 sc, sl st to end  

Unicorn Horn – work in pink

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Work 2 sc in stitches before the ch 3 ear, turn 2
2 Sc across, turn 2
3 Sc dec, turn 1
4 Sc and cast off 1

Unicorn Hair – work in pink

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Starting at the bottom of row 10 of the unicorn (sc, ch 5, sc) in same stitch, then repeat this pattern to the end of the row you should have 6 loops in total.  
  Cast off  
  Sew an eye to the unicorn and then sew in ends and sew to the bow.  

Flowers – starting in yellow

Row Instruction Stitches
1 5 sc in m/c 5
2 (sc inc) x 5 10
3 (sc, sc inc) x 5 15
  Change to white  
4 In f/l only (sc hdc, dc dc, hdc sc across 3 stitches) x 5, sl st and ch 3 30
5 In b/l Trc, dc (hdc, sc hdc, dc trc dc) x 4 then hdc, sc hdc and sl st to top of ch 3, cast off 30
  Sew in ends and sew to bow  

 

Cloud – work in white

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 6, sk ch, 4 sc, 5 sc in end ch, 4 sc up the other side of ch, 4 sc in starting ch, sl st to join 18
2 Hdc dc hdc, sl st, 3 dc, sl st, sl st, hdc dc hdc, sl st, hdc dc hdc, sl st, 3 dc, sl st, sl st, hdc dc hdc, sl st, cast off 26

 

Rainbow – start in red

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 11, sk ch and sl st down 10
2 In yellow sl st across 10
3 In green sl st across 10
4 In blue sl st across 10
5 In pink sl st across 10
  Sew in all ends and sew to bow, then position cloud over the top of the rainbow slightly and sew in place.  

 

Mermaid Tail – work in Blue

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 6, sk ch and sc in next 5 ch, turn 5
2-6 Sc across in b/l, turn 5
7 Sc dec, dc, sc dec, in b/l, turn 3
9 Sc across, in b/l, turn 3
10 To form tail – Ch 5, sk ch, sc, hdc, dc, trc, ch 3, sl in middle sc, ch 5, sk ch, sc hdc, dc, trc, sl to top of ch 3,  
  Cast off and sew to bow  

 

Heart – work in red

Row Instruction Stitches
1 6 sc in m/c 6
2 (sc inc) x 6 12
3 (sc, sc inc) x 6 18
4 Sc hdc, dc, 3 trc, dc, hdc sc, hdc, dc, 2trc dc, dc hdc, sc, sl st, sc, hdc dc, 2trc dc, dc, hdc, sl st  
  Cast off and sew to bow  

 

Polar Bear head – work in White

Row Instruction Stitches
1 6 sc in m/c 6
2 (sc inc) x 6 12
3 (sc, sc inc) x 6 18
4 Bobble, 3 sc, bobble, sc, sl st and cast off  

 

Polar Bear nose – work in White

Row Instruction Stitches
1 6 sc in m/c 6
  Sl st and cast off, sew to bear.  
  Add eyes, nose and mouth in black and sew to bow  
 

© All patterns on this page belong to www.cosycrochet.co.uk You may not sell this pattern. Please feel free to sell the items you make using this pattern, however please acknowledge me in your listing.
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Mix and Match Hair Bows

I hope you enjoyed the two FREE hair bow patterns that I shared last week.   This week I want to share with you another two hair bow patterns, the straight bow (which does not have any ends) and the large bow, which is a larger version of the round ended bow but perfect for pony tails or when you only need one bow in your hair.

Both of these bows were originally made in the Aldi DK sparkly yarn with a 5mm hook, but they could just as easily be made with any yarn or hook size you have available, it will just alter the final size slightly, so feel free to experiment with whatever you have in your stash to get your hair bows.

I’ll keep this week short and sweet as all the bow information is really in the patterns.   If you missed the release of the round ended bow and the bow with springy ends then you can find their patterns here.

Join me next week to get the little motif patterns to really jazz up your bows and make them special.   See you then,

Vicky x

Mix and Match Hair Bows
  1. Materials and Resources

Below is a list of everything you will need to make this —

  • DMC Petra size 3 cotton – small amounts in any colours (i used, yellow, white, pink, grey, blue, red and green)
  • Aldi DK sparkly yarn
  • 2.5mm hook or 5mm hook
  • Small crocodile clips & hot glue
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  1. Stitch List

Below is a list of all the stitches (and their abbreviations) featured in this pattern.  All terms used are American.

  • Sc – single crochet
  • Ch – chain
  • Sc inc – sc increase
  • Sc dec – sc decrease
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • m/c – magic circle
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • f/l – front loops
  • b/l – back loops
  • Bobble – 5dc in same stitch, pull up a loop on last stitch and take out hook, insert hook through 1st stitch, then pull loop through the stitch to complete bobble
  1. Notes

Here are a few handy tips to help you with the pattern.

  • There is no specific gauge for these bows, just work as you like. They may come out a slightly different size to mine but this doesn’t really matter.
  • Once the bows are made then they are glued to the crocodile clips using hot glue in a glue gun. Once cooled they are ready for use.
  • I made the bows in pairs, but you could also just make them for individual use too.
  • Commas are use to divide stitches, if you see instructions that do not have a comma in between then they should be placed in the same stitch.
  • The mix and match bows can be made by making any of the 4 bow options below and then adding any of the motif patterns (or none) to the bows.
  • The bows use up odd amounts of yarn and can be done in most light weight yarns.

Bow C – Straight Bow– work in any colour you choose

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 31, sk ch and hdc to end, turn 40
2-4 Hdc across 40
5 Sl st small sides together do not cast off  
  Using a long piece of cotton, wrap around the middle tightly to secure bow.  
  Sew in ends  

Bow D – Large Bow – work in any colour you choose

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 51, sk ch and hdc to end, turn 50
2-5 Hdc across, turn 50
6 Sl st short sides together and cast off  
  Using a long piece of cotton, wrap around the middle tightly to secure bow.  
  Sew in ends  

Bow Ends – work in any colour you choose

Row Instruction Stitches
1 Ch 21, sk ch and hdc 19, 5 hdc in end chain, working up the other side, hdc 19 and add 4 hdc in starting hdc, st st, ch 1 48
2 2 hdc in same stitch aas sl st, then 20 hdc, 2 hdc in next 4 stitches, 20 hdc then 2 hdc in next 4 stitches, sl st to end and cast off. 56
  Fold in half and sew folded piece to the back of the large bow so the rounded ends fall out below the bow.  
© All patterns on this page belong to www.cosycrochet.co.uk You may not sell this pattern. Please feel free to sell the items you make using this pattern, however please acknowledge me in your listing.
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