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I’m a firm believer in self care.

Whether it’d be meditation, taking care of your health, spending time with friends, or even simple pampering. Sewing, though, is on another level and I can’t recommend it enough for strengthening those self care muscles. To me, sewing increases self esteem.

In this post, I’ll be outlining how sewing has helped me when I’m feeling blue, and helped me through those tough times.

Of course, if needed please consult your medical professionals. This post discusses the small daily things that might have given me a positive boost and might be helpful for you!

It’s extremely easy to fall into a negative self esteem rut.

Whether it’s by feeling out of place in your own skin, life is just a pain in the butt, or even just the simple feeling of… blah. (Seriously, even just “blah.”)

In 2017 I went on a snowball journey of depression, and then the compounding effects of…

  1. Negative self image when trying on clothes at the store (and feeling out of place in my own body)
  2. Finding the same fitting problems over and over again (again, feeling like crap about myself at any opportunity)
  3. Having the feeling that I couldn’t control my self image

Eventually I found my way back to sewing, reminding myself of what I loved about it- and what it brought into my life that filled my heart with joy. I knew that by going back to it and with time, sewing would increase my self esteem.

The first reason sewing increases self esteem is by allowing you to observe your measurements in an actionable way.

When you’re feeling down, observing your body and measurements is hard. But as I’ve spoken about in a previous vlog, your measurements are points of information- and information is power. (Click to Watch: Weight-loss and Sewing Self Esteem)

By knowing your measurements and writing them down, you’re able to positively focus your attention on the action of pattern drafting.

When you take physical action on them- whether its learning how to mold a piece of fabric or picking out the right amount of fabric to buy- you’re able to emotionally “remove” yourself from the closeness of The Numbers.

The numbers can be terrifying- and in 2017, they grew like crazy. But, learning new skills through sewing made those numbers a little less scary- a little less upsetting. I felt like I could harness them into something beautiful through sewing.

The most perfect example, was when I sewed a two piece bathing suit for the first time, shame about my measurements: be damned! (Click to Watch: Sewing a Bathing Suit video tutorial)

The second reason sewing increases self esteem is that it focuses your attention when the going gets tough.

Sewing gives you a goal to work towards as a distraction when life may be chaotic, focusing on bringing together both creativity and engineering. Cutting fabric, sculpting a dart, hand sewing a hem- all of those skills require intense focus and attention, and can sometimes be a welcome relief to life.

An example of this was when I made a linen version of a shirt dress, totally off season, but because I emotionally needed to. (Click to Watch: Colette Penny Shirtdress Sewing Tutorial)

The fabric for this dress sat on my sewing table for months. Literally- months. But when I knew I was feeling helpless, without focus, listless, BLAH– I picked up the fabric, and got to work. Five minutes, ten minutes, thirty minutes a day until it was done.

Sewing that dress gave me something to commit to daily, until I got back into a regular routine and back into the flow of living.

The third reason I believe sewing increases self esteem, is that when you complete a garment, it instills pride.

Whether or not the project turns out perfectly, investing time and energy into something you make yourself gives you a sense of pride… because You Made It.

Being able to go through the beginning, middle, and end of a project gives you the Very Real Feeling of… Look how far I’ve come.

It’s an extremely powerful experience to be able to see that you’re making progress, on something, ANYTHING, when you’re not feeling your best.

While we’re not all powerful, and can’t control our entire lives, creative projects we spend our time on is something we can hold close to our heart. Being able to run your hand over all the handmade garments in your closet, hung up in a row, gives the sense that there is progression and movement.

This applies even when a project doesn’t work out.

A perfect example of this was a cocktail dress I made years ago, which brought me nothing but blood, sweat, and tears! (Click to Watch: Cocktail Dress tutorial video) I worked on it for days, and sat behind my sewing machine crying more than once. In the end, even though it didn’t work out, I still felt pride that I had FINISHED.

That finish line was everything.

Sewing increased my self esteem through the journey- because the feeling of completion made me feel like my time, effort, and energy was worth it. And I learned so much- nothing was lost.

Finding little “hacks” to positively look at yourself, even if you’re initially faking it, goes a long way in improving your happiness.

Of course, if you’re in the need of help from friends, family, spiritual leaders, or from the medical establishment, definitely do that as well. But for those little Pick-Me-Ups, sewing has helped me immensely.

Please let me know in the comments how sewing has improved your self esteem.

You can also tag me on Instagram, @vintageontap with photos of the garments you’ve made that really boosted your self esteem and let me know what about them really helped. I’ll be sharing some of your responses on my Instagram Stories.

If you’re brand new to sewing, please check out the Start Here page for similar videos on why I think sewing is amazing!

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The post 3 Reasons Why Sewing Increases your Self Esteem appeared first on Vintage on Tap.

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As a vintage lover, I’ve wanted to own a vintage cape for as long as I can remember.

Having a beautiful cape to twirl in, to feel luxurious and fabulous in… really, who wouldn’t want that?

Unfortunately, for years I convinced myself that buying a cape would be impractical. But then it hit me: why not just make one?

Sewing a cape, inspired by a vintage cape from the 40s or 50s  is totally within reach!

Purchasing a vintage cape sewing pattern on Etsy or eBay can be an eye opener. Prices may range from a cheap 7USD (5£) to a surprisingly expensive 50USD (32£.) Of course, if I you have the option to sew your garment from a vintage cape pattern, I say GO FOR IT!

BUT– using a modern sewing pattern with vintage sewing techniques can sometimes be more reasonable if you want a retro sewing fix and may not have access to a vintage sewing pattern.

Insert the Seamwork Camden Cape!

The cape is super traditional, with multiple gores to create a retro style that goes well with jeans, too.

I chose this pattern because I knew I wouldn’t have to try and enlarge a real vintage pattern and because it’s readily available online via PDF.

Plus, the projects I’ve made from Seamwork have all been reliable, which is extremely important when making a garment like this.

This Seamwork Magazine cape features lots of cute details!
  1. Comfortable arm holes openings that are placed at a natural place on the garment
  2. Pattern pieces include a full lining
  3. Simple, neckline for casual days– and ample space in case you want to throw a faux-fur collar to dress it up.

Before getting started…

Decide what upgrades you might want to make to the Seamwork Camden, to give it more of a vintage cape touch.

I went out of my way to pull in sewing techniques that would have been present in a vintage cape.

Never one to settle for a plain garment, I upgraded my pattern in the following ways:

  • Added bound buttonholes to the front, rather than plain machine made buttonholes
  • Drafted a new facing piece, to have a facing that went completely around the neck
  • Stitched in a pocket into the lining, to have an interior double welt pocket
  • Hand sewed my lining in place, using techniques from the 1940s
How To Sew Bound Buttonholes

Sewing a Bound Buttonhole through a Facing or Lining | Vintage on Tap - YouTube
 

How To Draft Your Own Facing to a Lining

Intro to Drafting a Facing and Lining Combination | Vintage on Tap - YouTube
 

How to Sew a Lining by Hand, Using Sewing Techniques from the 1940s

Lining a Coat with Vintage Techniques | Vintage on Tap - YouTube
 

The final technique comes with a free download, which you can get below:

FREE Vintage Linings Tutorial PDF

Get a FREE Printable PDF with all my vintage lining tips and instructions covered in my video tutorial, ready for your sewing table!

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Step One: Pick the Right Fabric for the Job

Picking the right fabric for a cape cannot be understated! I discuss this in my video tutorial at timestamp 4:21.

Ask yourself the following questions:

How do I intend to wear this cape? For casual use, or more as a workhorse, daily cape?

Depending on your answer, pick lighter or thicker fabrics. For example, if it’s a purely workhorse cape, perhaps a sturdy twill or trenchcoat-like fabric might be nice. If you’re wearing your piece more for the glitz and glam of it, perhaps a sequin fabric or a thinner, more fluttery fabric can be what you’re looking for.

This also extends to the lining! 

What’s the weather more likely to be when you wear it?

In my case, San Francisco doesn’t get too terribly cold and I’ll be pairing this cape up with wool sweaters and long sleeve shirts. I did not underline this piece with a flannel or cotton for insulation and opted for a mid-to-light cotton brushed “wool.”

If temperatures in your area get extremely cold, definitely insulate your piece! If not, then you are probably ok to proceed as I did in the video tutorial, with no additional underlining.

Step Two: Notches notches notches

The importance of notches is always imperative to your sewing success! Covered at 2:15 in the video tutorial.

Remember, notches indicate where pattern pieces fit in relationship to one another– AS WELL AS where two pattern pieces meet. In pieces such as this Camden cape, you’ll be sewing on a curve for most panels, and the notches allow you to see where the two pieces match up to one another.

If you’ve had to do any fitting adjustments…

Please be sure to rewalk your pattern pieces to make sure your pieces and notches match. On this vintage style cape, keep an eye out on the following areas:

  • If you’ve shortened or lengthened the piece… That the front shell and lining pattern pieces match the facing
  • If you’ve done a full bust adjustment… That the front shell and lining pattern pieces match the bottom rectangular panel

Step Three: Identify at what point to incorporate vintage techniques into the sewing process

The process of upgrading your sewing patterns can seem overwhelming if you haven’t given it a shot before.

Taking the time before beginning the sewing process, to identify where to incorporate your new vintage elements can save you a lot of heartache down the road.

For the above listed upgrades, I added them in at the following points:

At the pattern drafting stage…

Complete any fitting adjustments you might like to do. Then, draft your new facing pieces.

For my Camden cape, I drafted a 2inch wide facing piece that extended from the original facing that ended at the neck, then brought the facing into a gentle curve around the neckline.

Watch the tutorial on this sewing technique by clicking here

Before attaching the front shell piece to anything else…

Sew your bound buttonholes. The pattern piece will be easier to handle if it’s not attached to the shell, and moving things around your sewing space will be a calmer experience.

For my Seamwork Camden cape, I opted for the following measurements based off the recommended 3/4″ button:

  • 4 x 4″ squares for the “lips” of the buttonhole
  • 1 1/8 x 3/8″ buttonhole opening

As noted in my buttonhole tutorial, sew the buttonholes onto the shell piece, and then complete the bound buttonholes later on when the facing has been sewn in place.

Click here to learn how to sew a bound buttonhole

Before attaching the lining to the shell…

Stitch in your inner double welt pocket. I eyeballed where on my cape I wanted my pocket to be, and then went for it.

I used the following measurements for my cape, which were large enough to fit an iPhone 7 (not PLUS):

  • 7 x 3″ welt, facing, and interfacing (cut 2 of interfacing)
  • 7 x 12″ pocket lining

The best tutorial for double welt pockets I found online (that wasn’t mine!) is on the Craftsy website.

After sewing the facing onto the shell…

At that point you can attach your lining in by hand. Attaching the lining by hand is a really calm experience and the process of it is extremely forgiving due to the hand sewing of the technique.

Click here to learn more about hand sewing in a lining

Sewing a vintage cape from a modern pattern is easy to do if you upgrade the pattern and make it more authentic to the time period.

A lot of modern sewing patterns draw direct inspiration and design from their older counterparts, and simply by including more intentional construction details, you can help merge the two styles seamlessly.

By incorporating bound buttonholes, hand sewing, and more fully thought out interior designs, you can sew your own vintage cape.

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The post How to Sew a Vintage Cape, Tutorial with Video appeared first on Vintage on Tap.

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The time has come… for the 2017/2018 AMA!

I received so many amazing questions for this past AMA and this video was such a joy to shoot. I actually really love having a moment to shoot a video like this.

Questions included:

  • Where is my favorite place online to go fabric shopping?
  • How can we get more men sewing?
  • What’s the pattern I wish existed?
  • How big is my fabric stash?
  • …and more!

We also shouted out the lovely Joost from Freesewing.org , where he creates free menswear PDF patterns! Please check out his website when you get an opportunity!

Want to see more questions answered? 

Check out our previous AMA by clicking here!

The post 2017/2018 AMA Answers! appeared first on Vintage on Tap.

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This New Year ReSEWlutions video is a two step reveal!

I go into two different topics as 2018 begins, discussing the fun questions that Cotton by Candy posed to me via a YouTube sewing tag as well as 2018 Vintage on Tap changes.

The questions Candy asked were fun and thought provoking and they definitely made me consider what the projects that might be the most intriguing for the new year:

1) What’s your favourite make of 2017? Why?
2) What did you attempt in 2017 that you won’t be doing next year? Why not?
3) What are you going to continue doing?
4) What are you going to try next year?
5) Where do you see your handmade wardrobe by the end of next year? What about in 5 years?

It’s super fun to think of new year reSEWlutions in this sort of way– reflecting on what worked, what didn’t work, and what direction you might want to go in in the future.

If you’re considering answering these questions via Instagram or YouTube, be sure to tag me so I can check them out!

Upcoming updates to Vintage on Tap are on the way!

Many fun changes are coming to Vintage on Tap as 2018 starts up. I’m actually prepping to start them and I think they’ll be a nice update to our process.

The biggest reason for this updated direction is that I wanted to be able to have a closer relationship with all the viewers around the world and have a more hands on experience that I hope my videos can provide.

Some of the new changes include:

  1. More intimate videos and LIVE features on the YouTube channel, Facebook, and Instagram!
  2. “Sew and Tell” journey videos!
  3. Formalized Sew Alongs!

If you’re not following me on All the Stuff, please do so! Each platform will have its own special content that differs from the rest and you won’t want to miss it!

Click the images below to follow:

Here’s to an amazing 2018! I can’t wait to share it with you and make even more amazing projects together!

The post 2018 New Year ReSEWlutions + Channel Updates! appeared first on Vintage on Tap.

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Bound buttonholes can seem intimidating, but they don’t have to be.

The fear of bound buttonholes seems to lay in the perceived amount of steps that go into the process.

To be honest, there aren’t as many steps as you might think. 

Adding fuel to that fire is that there are multiple ways to sew bound buttonholes. With the sheer amount of ways to get the job done, anyone encountering the technique for the first time can be intimidated.

For me, I was put off from them for a long time because I kept using a tutorial that was making it harder for me to understand the concept, not easier.

At one point I had made over 20 buttonholes and they all kept coming out wrong.

I was using what I’m dubbing the “two lips” method. With that technique, you were instructed to cut out two tiny lips and then attach them to the buttonhole and in the process, becoming stressed out and angry.

Yikes.

Sewing bound buttonholes should not make you angry.

When getting started with bound buttonholes, expect to make multiple samples before tackling your fashion fabric.

Ultimately, practicing ANY new technique, it’s a good rule of thumb to go through at least four or five iterations. One or two iterations to mess up the technique entirely, but then by the time you get to version five+, the process looks and sews cleaner and more gorgeous.

Step One: Sew your bound buttonhole rectangles.

In my video tutorial, my rectangles were 2in x .5in (5.08cm x 1.27cm.)

Trace your rectangle onto both your fashion fabric and the fabric that I’m dubbing the “lips” of the buttonhole. Using a couple pins, line up both rectangles as closely as possible (timestamp 1:30) and then pin the two layers of fabric together.

Sew along the rectangle, all the way around. Start and end your stitches as exact on the corners as possible.

Step Two: Mark your cut lines, cut, and turn inside out.

Starting at timestamp 2:38, draw your cutting lines. You need one line directly down the middle of the buttonhole, then as you approach the corners, create Y-shape from the center line to the corners.

Using a pin, find the center of the bound buttonhole (timestamp 2:50) and then snip down the guidelines, careful not to cut through your previous stitch line.

Carefully turn inside out.

Step Three: Tack your Bound Buttonhole “lips” in place.

At your iron, press the buttonhole lips in place, taking care that the corner tabs are laying correctly (timestamp 4:53.) Also be sure that your buttonhole lips are straight and look correct from the right side.

When everything is pressed and pinned, stitch the short ends of your buttonhole, through all layers, stitching “in the ditch” (the crease.) This step will keep the buttonhole from pulling open and and will tack everything in place, timestamp 6:34.

Trim from the wrong side any excess buttonhole lip fabric, leaving roughly 3/4″in around the buttonhole.

Press!

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If you’re attaching a facing or lining to your bound buttonhole…

Be sure to complete the steps above before attaching the facing or lining. You want to be sure the shell is prepared with its buttonholes so you can focus entirely on the facing/lining.

  Step Four: Stabilize the facing or lining around the bound buttonhole.

After sewing your lining or facing to the garment as a whole, pin the facing/lining approximately 2in (5cm) around the buttonhole.

The exact amount of pins or the exact distance is not important, however, you’re aiming for the facing/lining to not wiggle or pull during the remaining process. 

Using pins at the edges of the bound buttonhole, identify the center of the buttonhole, timestamp 7:34.

Step Five: Cut through facing/lining and handsew in place.

Carefully snip through the facing/lining, careful not to cut through the lips of the buttonhole. Cut all the way to the edges of the opening.

Fingerpress the facing/lining approximately 1/16in-1/8in (0.15cm – 0.32cm) under, pinning it carefully in place. Hand sew the facing to the lips of the buttonhole.

Press and admire your work!

Sewing bound buttonholes does not have to be a chore.

If anything, with this type of technique you can consistently make something small but beautiful. For me personally, because I tend to use older machines with considerably janky-er buttonhole attachments, this comes out more beautifully long term. It also gives my sewing more of that Intentional Vintage Sewing look, elevating it past the standard machine made buttonhole.

Have you made bound buttonholes before? What was your experience?

This post is part of the Vintage Vogue 9280 Video series! Check out the other installment of this series by clicking the image below:

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The post Bound Buttonholes Through a Lining or Facing, Video Tutorial appeared first on Vintage on Tap.

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This post is part of the Vintage Vogue 9280 collab video series with McCall’s Pattern Company! To learn more about the series, including the accompanying Sewing Compendium for this series and GIVEAWAY, check out the intro post! 

Fitting Vintage Vogue 9280 isn’t particularly tricky, but it can seem that way since it features five darts AND a princess seam.

The major fitting aspect of this piece lies in the princess seam, with the other darts each deserving different consideration.

On the bodice front, the shoulder darts help the collar lapels fall elegantly open and aren’t particularly adding more to the fitting experience. Same goes for the dart at the side front, which (from my observations) seems to assist in molding the dress around the bust, which I love.

With Vintage Vogue 9280 being a 40s retro sewing piece, the extra molding makes sense. The dart is aiming for a close fit and tight silhouette with light ease; the side front dart really helps nip in the design. It actually reminds me of my Butterick 6453 fitting video, where a regular princess seam wasn’t enough to really get that nipped in waist, and I had to do some additional molding to make that look work on my body.

On the bodice back, the darts in the back come together for the inverted pleat design. (For the purposes of the muslin, I did a simple stitch to close up the center back in order to fit the piece. However, where the two darts meet, the pleat will open.)

Also, the shoulder darts create a warm rounded design, which seem to help the shoulder look more distinct in combination with a shoulder pad.

With all of that said, start fitting the princess seam before altering any other darts right away.

As with most of my tutorials, besides doing a swayback adjustment, I did few changes to the other darts and focused almost entirely on the princess seam to accommodate my full bust.

Before getting started, get your tools ready: Also, review the following videos: Other prep work to do before jumping in:
  • Using the hip adjusting line, cut the bodice from the skirt. For this tutorial, you’ll be working on the bodice only, which is more complicated than adjusting the skirt later on. Isolating the bodice will make it easier to adjust and then reattach later.
  • Find a couple larger shoulder pads for fitting purposes- OR- do like I did and find a couple of my boyfriend’s socks and roll them up for some make-do shoulder pads.

Step One: Select your size and stitch up your first muslin

Taking time to select your Vintage Vogue 9280 size is generally straight forward in that the bust is the key, as it affects the “frame” of the garment, which includes the neckline and shoulder, both which are harder to fit than the waist. 

My measurements are below:
  • Full Bust: 41in/104cm
  • High Bust: 38in/96.5cm
  • Waist: 33.5in/85cm
  • Hips: 42.5in/108cm
  • Torso Length: 15in/38cm
  • Height: 5’2″/157cm

I selected a size 16 due to my high bust measurement, which matches the listed bust measurement for this design. If you’re like me and have a larger bust, a full bust adjustment (FBA) adds extra width to the waistline! Worry about the waistline after you’ve completed your FBA for a better fit.  

From there, sew your first half muslin- straight from the packet, to take in the design, and observe how it fits over your body before deciding what adjustments will be necessary.

To watch this step, jump to 1:45 in the tutorial video to see what Size 16 looked like on me, straight from the packet.

Step Two: Start Plugging away your pattern adjustments, one at a time.

Vintage Vogue 9280 uses the standard McCall’s Patterns block, so in my case I knew what adjustments to do right away. However, if you’re still playing around with pattern drafting in general, approach it in the following order, using the following questions:

Starting with the bodice back (in order):

  • Does the center back line of the pattern go straight down your body’s center back line?
  • Is there pulling at the shoulders?
  • Where does the waist line sit compared to your natural waist?
  • Is there pooling of fabric at the bottom of your back?

Note: Before hacking into the pattern, compare the collar facing and contrast collar pattern pieces to the center front pattern piece, to notice how big they are compared to one another. Any changes you do on the center front will need to be done to these corresponding pieces once the whole process is complete.

In my case, I identified that I needed to shorten my waist by approximately 3/4in (1.9cm), which I cover at timestamp 2:02. Also, I had to do a swayback adjustment of approximately 1/2in (1.27cm)

Make your next half muslin at this point.

Step Three: Take special care with the bust area.

Turning to the front pattern adjustments, the main thing to consider before changing neck, arm scythes, shoulders, waist— is the center front line between the neck and bust and whether or not the fullest area of the bust in the muslin matches your body.

Note: The front bodice notches are extremely important for Vintage Vogue 9280, so if you haven’t yet reviewed the Walking a Pattern video, now is the time!

In my case, I saw that the fullest part of the pattern bust fit me great. Then, I measured a distance of 2in (5.08cm) in order for the muslin to fit towards my center front, covered at timestamp 4:32 in the video. The pattern bust point (identified in the side front pattern piece) generally fitting the correct area, meaning I only had to add to the center front pattern piece.

If you’re doing an FBA, slash a straight line up the pattern, curving slightly towards the shoulder, spreading open the pattern (with hinge,) covered at timestamp 4:55.

After the FBA is complete and you’ve walked your princess seams, stitch up a full muslin.

Step Four: Determine what final adjustments you may need.

Questions you might ask yourself for Vintage Vogue 9280 include some of the following (in order):

  • Does the center front match your body’s center front? If not, where? (If at the waist, add extra at the side seams, not the center front)
  • Does the shoulder point (with shoulder pad) match your shoulder point? (If not, determine how much or how little to add or remove from the shoulder or sleeve cap)
  • How does the sleeve look in comparison to your arm? Do you need to narrow or widen it?
  • Is the arm scythe comfortable?
  • Do you have enough wearing ease to move comfortably around in?

After you’ve done any final small adjustments, be sure to transfer your center front bodice changes to both the collar facings and collar contrast pattern pieces. Be sure to account for notches, length, and FBA (or SBA.)

At this point, you can tape your bodice pieces back to their corresponding skirt pieces, widening the skirt if necessary.

The key for more “complicated” pieces such as Vintage Vogue 9280 is to break down the fitting process into one adjustment at a time.

Looking at patterns that include lots of bells and whistles can absolutely scare beginners from tackling more advanced projects. I’m here to say… it definitely doesn’t have to be that way. Listing each adjustment in a properly defined order allows you to tackle each thing, feeling like you’re making headway and have a good grasp of the pattern.

In addition to the above video and above research notes, I’ve written up companion Sewing Compendium series!

The series includes additional resources if you have other fitting concerns. The compendium for this post includes resources for the following:

  • Small bust adjustment (SBA) on a princess seam
  • Sleeve widening and narrowing
  • Shoulder pad placement (for fitting purposes)
  • Narrow shoulder adjustment on princess seams
To receive the compendium, please fill out the form below:

Get the V9280 Sewing Compendium!

Get the V9280 Compendium series, featuring additional fitting tips, sewing techniques, and fabric ideas for your next vintage style Coat Dress!

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Do you have any questions or comments about this process? Please leave them down in the comment section below!

This post is part of the Vintage Vogue 9280 Video series! Check out the other installment of this series by clicking the image below:


Thank you, McCall’s Pattern Company, for making this video series and collaboration possible!
 
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The post How to Fit the 1948 Vintage Vogue 9280! appeared first on Vintage on Tap.

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I’m happy to announce my new video series, collaborating with McCall’s Pattern Company!

My continuing collaboration with McCall’s features the newest release, Vintage Vogue V9280, originally released in 1948.

From the Vogue Patterns website:

Close fitting dress has front princess seams, inverted pleat at center back and detachable collar and sleeve facing.

Breaking it down, the piece is all the glamour and fashion of the late 1940s, including shoulder pads, side closure, bell sleeves, and full retro detailing all along the interior. 

Coat dresses are absolutely fabulous!

Living between the shape and structure of a coat– and the ease and comfort of a dress, coat dresses are quintessentially vintage inspired. Kate Middleton rocks them on a regular basis and finding vintage patterns for these sorts of designs is relatively easy.

I’ve gone ahead and collected more inspiration images over on Pinterest, if you’re looking for more examples of this sort of design.

The main thing to consider with this sort of garment is that the fabric makes all the difference.

This Vintage Vogue V9280 video series will break down the sewing process!

Similarly to my McCall’s M7625 Video Series, this series will include three videos:

  1. Fitting video, breaking down potential fitting concerns
  2. Technique video, deep diving into one specific technique that applies to this pattern
  3. Sewing video, going step by step through the sewing process

For reference, these are my measurements:

  • Bust: 41in/104cm
  • Waist: 33.5in/85cm
  • Hips: 42.5in/108cm
  • Torso Length: 15in/38cm
  • Height: 5’2″/157cm

Please note: Not all pattern adjustments I make will be applicable to all people. However, I will be using mine throughout the process to give people an idea of potential hurdles and potential adjustments to attempt. Even if you don’t match my measurements, the video will definitely help get you in the mindset for pattern adjustments.

With all that said, for this series I’ll be writing a few sewing compendiums!

These compendiums will be a few short emails that give additional details about the pattern that are written to be short and useful if you’re sewing this piece.

Emails will include fitting tips if you’re taller/shorter/curvier/less busty than me and fabric suggestions above the ones I mention in my upcoming videos, including sourcing resources.

To receive the compendium, please fill out the form below!:

Get the V9280 Sewing Compendium!

Get the V9280 Compendium series, featuring additional fitting tips, sewing techniques, and fabric ideas for your next vintage style Coat Dress!

Success! Now check your email to confirm your subscription and get your first V9280 email!

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To view more from this series, please click the image below!

Thank you, McCall’s Pattern Company, for making this video series possible!

 
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The post The Vintage Vogue V9280 Sewing Series! appeared first on Vintage on Tap.

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