Bath bombs are considered a cosmetic and there are rules and regulations imposed by the FDA for coloring bath bombs. This has been a challenging time for people who make soap who have recently added bath bombs to their catalog. Soaps are a rinse off product, whereas bath bombs are used in bathwater and are in contact with mucous membranes (genitals) for extended periods of time.
Glitter has been mostly ignored in the community as a color additive. Suppliers who offer these glitters often have untrue statements or misinformation on their website about their approved applications.
Many cosmetic glitters contain aluminum. If you don't know if your does, look at the ingredient list on the label or on the website of your supplier. If it contains aluminum, you may not use these safely in bath bombs (or bath products made for the tub).
The Director of Color Certification at the FDA confirmed that if a color additive contains aluminum or aluminum powder, it is approved for the following for cosmetics
Generally (includes lipstick) NO
External: YES This means it should not come in contact with mucous membranes for extended periods of time.
From the CFR:
73.2645 Aluminum powder.(a) Identity and specifications. The color additive aluminum powder shall conform in identity and specifications to the requirements of §73.1645 (a)(1) and (b).(b) Uses and restrictions. Aluminum powder may be safely used in coloring externally applied cosmetics, including cosmetics intended for use in the area of the eye, in amounts consistent with good manufacturing practice.
So in layman's terms, ALUMINUM is:
Not permitted on lips
Not permitted in bath bombs, bath salts, bath bubble bars, etc.
It is hard to keep track of all the rules. We understand. We try hard to keep up on all of the color additive rules and regulations,keep you informed so you can comply with the FDA regulations. The FDA list all color additives that are approved for cosmetics and their safety applications. If you are having trouble deciphering what all of it means, feel free to email me at info(at)madoils(dot)com or contact the FDA.
The trick to making salt soap is to use a multi-cavity silicone mold to pour your soap into because it will harden to what feels like a block of concrete and will be useless if not cut at the perfect temperature and timing is tricky and hot soap burns... ow... There was a time when I'd make a sea salt soap in a loaf pan and I'd put it in the oven and when it was "done" cooking, I'd have to remove it from the mold and cut it with a large butcher knife. This entailed holding the loaf to secure it while cutting with the other finger. I think I burned my fingerprints right off my fingertips! So now, I don't cook my salt soap, nor do I cut them! Now, I just use a multi-cavity silicone mold and pour. Wait 12 hours and unmold - - POP! Out they come. They don't fall apart, or burn my fingers and they are all pretty much uniform!
I have always loved sea salt bars. They have a creamy lather and the soap seems to last forever! Because salt inherently diminishes lather, we used 100% coconut oil to get the biggest bang for the lather. Yes, a very cleansing bar of soap, but that is why we superfatted it at 20%. That counteracts the drying feeling that too much coconut oil can cause. If there is too much coconut oil in your batch of soap, you'll get lots of bubbles, but your skin will feel overly cleansed, or dry. This bar has the best of both worlds.... with some extra superfatting.
If you do not know how to make cold process soap, please do not attempt this until you have a full understanding of how the process works. A beginning tutorial can be found hereor herefor basic cold process soapmaking.
This is the recipe I used but you can adjust how much you make by putting in the number of ounces or lbs of oil you will use in Soapcalc.net:
I made this soap once the lye water and oils were both warm, but not at room temperature (about 100 degrees F).
In the melted warm (not hot) oils, add all the mica and blend with a silicone spatula until fully incorporated. Add the lye water and blend until emulsified until you reach a light trace. Add the sea salt and blend until fully blended and so that the salt is suspended and not resting at the bottom of your bowl. Add the fragrance last and blend well with your stick blender until fully incorporated.
Pour into silicone molds. Let sit overnight or for at least 12 hours. Pop out and let cure for 4-6 weeks. They turned out great and of course, I washed with a bit of a broken off piece and the lather is better than just creamy, there are lots of bubbles and the scent is intoxicating!
Sometimes as an artist it is hard to be inspired when work and life consumes. Halloween is one of my favorite holidays and these inspire me completely! I found some Halloween soaps that make me swoon and want to smell candy corn, eat sticky apples and run through (fake) cobwebs!
Here are a bunch of beautiful soaps I found on Etsy this morning. Some are creepy, funny and all in the spirit of the Day Of The Dead:
I've been missing browsing for hours looking for beautiful soaps to admire. Today marks a week of rain and clouds, not to mention the oppressive humidity here in south Florida, so the browsing has upped my spirits.
Thank you to all the incredible soap/bath & body making artists that brought me solace. Here are a few that stood out for me especially. ;)
I have been corresponding with the Director of Color Certification & Technology Division at the FDA regarding exactly what is legal to use in Bath Bombs specifically. We (at Mad Micas) carry Batch Certified Lakes and we carry neon pigments. There seems to be some confusion regarding whether the use of neons in bath bombs is within the FDA regulations.
These are my findings:
Bath bombs, bath salts and nail polish are regulated as cosmetics so they should only contain FDA approved color additives. You must check the uses and restrictions for each approved color additive. Refer to the list of approved color additives. If you don’t see the color on this list it is not permitted in the U.S.:
If the color additive is only allowed for external use, then it is not allowed in lip products or bath salts/bombs. Please see the definition of external use in the Code of Federal Regulations Title 21 Part 70.3(v):
§70.3 Definitions.……(v) The terms externally applied drugs and externally applied cosmetics mean drugs or cosmetics applied only to external parts of the body and not to the lips or any body surface covered by mucous membrane.
Regarding neon pigments or other pigment blends:
If the dye or lake, such as Yellow 5, Red 28, Red 40, etc. is not from a certified lot, then the pigment blend is not permitted in FDA regulated products. It may be okay in Europe or Asia, but in the U.S. it is not allowed.
In layman's terms, if you use an approved color additive in your bath bomb, it must be batch certified. Period. Neons are not permitted at all unless the blend uses FDA batch certified dyes or lakes.
Micas, on the other hand, are not regulated by the FDA even if they are cosmetic grade and can be used in any bath products. Cosmetic micas can be used in cosmetics depending on their ingredients (depending on if they are lip and eye safe, etc.)
I hope this has cleared up some fuzzy areas when making bath bombs or nail polish for sale and staying within the FDA regulations regarding these products.
There is a lot of misinformation out here in the soap world and it has become clear to me that many people will take the advice in a DIY video and just make soap without looking into getting some safety information. There are a lot of things that are dangerous about cold process soapmaking if certain safety precautions aren't taken.
Making a basic soap is actually easy to do and anyone can do it as long as basic steps are taken and a general knowledge of chemicals being used are clearly understood. This is not a tutorial on what soap is or what superfatting is or the chemical science behind it all, although all of these things are important to learn before you make soap, but I am simply focusing on safety and ease of this process.
I have listed a link to a cold process tutorial with photos along with some resources and MUST READS at the bottom of this post so you can read some excellent descriptions and words of wisdom from excellent master soapers I believe are trustworthy and will provide you with free, solid information.
Let's look at some simple truths that one must understand before diving into making cold process (CP) soap:
1. Lye is caustic. If you use it, know that it can be dangerous if you aren't careful, but it won't bite you and shouldn't scare you off as long as you follow the rules. Here are basic rules:
Wear latex, rubber or nitrile gloves while handling lye, whether it's dry or in your water/lye mixture. Lye will sting and burn if it touches you. Yes, it hurts.
Wear safety goggles over your eyes, even if you already wear glasses. Eyes are beautiful and they help us navigate this life of ours. Kind of a big deal, so protect those eyeballs always. No need to take any chances of blinding yourself. So wear them. No excuses!
If you are just starting out you will need to first figure out how much soap you are making and what mold or container you will be putting it in. Now this is all personal preference. You can skip purchasing expensive molds at first while you make a number of practice soaps in everyday containers that are pliable, such as Gladware disposable "tupperware". These can be used several times before they become useless, so choose any size. They are easy to clean, easy to unmold your soap and are inexpensive and easily accessible. Also, while you are buying plastic food containers, grab a heavy weight plastic pitcher to make your lye/water mixture or use one from home, that you label "LYE-POISON!" on and never use it for food or drinks again.
You will be using lye, also known as sodium hydroxide, which, in the Soap Calculator is NaOH (the chemical name for lye).
In section #1, choose NaOH. Then you need to determine your batch size in oils. I would start with 1 lb of oils. Making a smaller sized batch than that is more difficult to do without the experience of using your stick blender and you may end up with too many bubbles or splashing.... Remember, this post is designed for the absolute beginner. Before you get the hang of your tools and how they work on different speeds, the rotation of your stick and air bubbling in melted oils, etc, it is probably easier to stick with this sized batch at first.
Once you decide on your batch size, enter it in #2 of the calc.
Section #3 will determine the concentration of your lye to oil. Choose the "Water: Lye Concentration": Enter 2:1. This means that you will use twice as much water as lye which is a good place to start. If your lye in water concentration is more concentrated, your soap may go to trace faster than you may want and right now, you probably just want to make soap without panicking.
Section #4 is named: Superfat. Because this may be your first soap, and the batch will be on the small side, I would start at the default 5% or 6%. I prefer my soaps to be around 8-9% superfat which is more moisturizing than 5%, but the soap may be a bit softer and harder to unmold after 12-24 hours. Trust me when I tell you, that when your soap is cooled off completely, you will want to pop it out of that Gladware and cut it to see the magic you just created way before it gets to the cooling point. It is very satisfying to have created an actual soap from a dangerous powder, some water and some oils. It is massively addictive once you see what that chemical reaction creates, and that YOU made it.
Now you get to choose your oils. Again, this is your first soap and will most likely NOT be your last, so don't concern yourself too much about the properties of your oils for a magnificent bar. You will have plenty of time to learn about the different qualities each oil brings to the table of soap, but this is your test batch. You can use lard, sunflower oil, canola oil, Crisco, olive oil and/or coconut oil or any variation of any of these if you want ...all of these can be purchased at your grocery store. Enter which oils you will be using and at what percentages. For instance, Coconut oil: 30%, Olive oil: 40%, Sunflower oil: 30%
"Calculate" your recipe and click on View and Print Recipe which will open up a new tab for you to print out and follow exact measurements for your soap. It is crucial that you follow the exact measurements that the calculator provides. I always follow the gram measurements so that my soap is exactly what the recipe calls for so that if I am not happy with my end result, I can tweak my recipe based on the end result.
Thing to always remember:
1. When mixing your lye and water: Never add the water to the lye. Always add the lye to the water. Please wear a surgical mask or avoid the "steam" that is caused when the two mix together. Do not breath the steam into your lungs. It hurts and it isn't good for you.
2. When letting the lye/water mixture cool to room temperature, always put it out of reach of children or pets and make sure the container is properly labeled as poison in case you leave the room and someone else touches it. Avoid any mishaps that can end up with permanent damage.
Again, soapmaking is fun, addictive and creates a functional art, but can be dangerous if you don't take the proper precautions. Don't be scared. Wear goggles (even if you wear glasses!), gloves and clothes while doing every step and read the following articles and you should have a safe and fun experience. Who know?! Your second batch of soap could change your life! It only took two batches for me and I was hooked. It seems to be a common feeling among soap makers: that it is an addictive, empowering process.
2. Amanda Gail Aaron's Lovin Soap website is an invaluable resource you will want to use when learning about soapmaking. A basic cold process soapmaking guide is here: http://www.lovinsoap.com/cold-process-soap-making-guide/ Read it. Also, she has an article that lists oils and their properties in soap: http://www.lovinsoap.com/oils-chart/