Textile Focus is one of the developments of marketing and promotion service provider company “Marketo Services”. Established in 2016 Textile Focus is a bi-monthly business publication for focusing local and international textile & apparel industry. Textile Focus covers every aspect of the textile & apparel industry.
Recently The Institution of Textile Engineers and Technologists, Bangladesh (ITET) has organized Ifter and Doa Mahfil at Golf Garden in Dhaka. Md. Mahbubul Alam Hanif, MP, General Secretary (Acting), Bangladesh Awami League was present as chief guest at this occasion. Engr. Mohammad Mozaffar Hossain, Member of Parliament was present as special guest. Engr. Shafiqur Rahman, President, ITET presided over the gathering. Senior textile engineers, ITET past President, Secretary General, Industrialist, ITET members who are working in different segments of textile industries were present at the Ifter and Doa Mahfil. ITET members expressed their happiness to join at the great gathering. ITET organizes grand Ifter party for it’s members every year.
Novozymes today announced its results for the first three months of 2019. All businesses developed roughly as expected except for a weaker US bioethanol industry. Organic sales growth of -4%: Household Care -3%, Food & Beverages -2%, Bioenergy -8%, Agriculture & Feed -6%, Technical & Pharma +5%. EBIT margin 25.7%. Net profit 14% lower year on-year (y/y). Free cash flow before acquisitions DKK 0.4 billion.
Peder Holk Nielsen, President & CEO: “The first – quarter decline in sales was no surprise – we communicated this back in January. We also expected US bioethanol to be down, but the decline was larger than we ha d foreseen. The flood s in the Midwest have made it tougher for our customers. With the problems continuing in to April, it will be difficult to reach the top end of the guided organic sales growth range , and we adjust our outlook to 3 – 5%. We’ re confident sales growth will increase during the year as innovations, the freshness platform, BioAg seasonality and Bioenergy all step up, and the Middle East comparison gets easier.”
Highlights Q1 2019:
All businesses roughly as expected except for Bioenergy. A declining US bioethanol market has been further impacted by the Midwest flooding since mid-March
As expected, negative impact from the Middle East, feed enzymes and the planned price reductions in US baking enzymes
Developed markets flat; 10% organic sales decline in emerging markets, with the Middle East as the main drag
EBIT margin soft but as expected at 25.7%, mainly due to lower gross margin from lower sales and a planned increase in sales and distribution costs
Net profit down 14% y/y due to lower EBIT and hedging losses
Free cash flow before acquisitions DKK 0.4 billion; net investments DKK 0.1 billion
2019 outlook: Organic sales growth 3-5%; an expected 1 %-point added to growth in DKK. US bioethanol production in Q1 was more negative than expected, especially in the wake of flooding in the Midwest in March, continuing into April. The 3-5% range reflects both strong new product performance and geopolitical uncertainty. Stronger growth in 2H vs. 1H y/y for multiple reasons. EBIT margin at 29-30% supported by solid productivity gains and release of full deferred income as communicated on April 4 following the new BioAg setup. Net profit growth of 5-10%. CAPEX at DKK 1.0-1.3 billion. FCF bef. acq. at DKK 2.0-2.4 billion. ROIC expected at ~24% (~25% excl. IFRS 16 Leases). Stock buyback program of up to DKK 2bn to be initiated April 25, 2019.
Trade war and India’s lowered cotton output are enablers for new market opportunities for United States’ cotton in India. Mr. Arun Sekhsaria, Director of Mumbai-based Cotton Association of India (CAI) who is visiting the United States this week to explore different business opportunities spoke today with this scribe on the global cotton scenario. In speaking about the potential growth opportunities in cotton trade between United States and India, Sekhsaria provided an optimistic picture.
Arun Sekhsaria was present at the meeting between the USDA representative in India and the CAI officials during the last week in April that has led to the downward revision of India’s production estimate by USDA. USDA’s official estimate is now at 32.5 million bales (325 lakh bales of 170 Kgs each). However, the CAI’s estimate is still low, and it is pegged at 31.6 million bales (316 lakh bales of 170 Kgs each). Lack of rain during the early part of the season has led to the decline in cotton output in major cotton growing areas such as Gujarat, Telangana and Maharashtra.
Discussion in the past few days among the Indian end-user community is that spinners have to look for imported cotton. Traders like Arun Sekhsaria, Managing Director of Mumbai-based D. D. Cotton, Pvt. Ltd., are making sincere efforts to provide appropriate cotton for Indian spinners, which includes importing option as well. Commenting on the trade war between China and USA, Sekhsaria opined that Brazil may capture the China cotton market, therefore United States’ should be looking for different markets such as India. Particularly opportunities are on the horizon for cottons grown organically and under better cotton initiative (BCI).
“India is appropriate market for 2018 and 2019 U.S. crops,” stated Sekhsaria. However, the quality of cotton left over from the 2018 crop may not be adequate. But with the rains and favorable weather in West Texas, crop with good quality is expected for the 2019 crop added, Sekhsaria. Starting August, India will be a favorable market for U.S cotton as its prices are below the MSP support prices in India.
There is a need for more awareness of the United States’ cotton sector among Indian spinners. Having visited Lubbock during Fall 2018 to see new applications for cotton such as oil absorbent wipes, Arun Sekhsaria is planning to bring a delegation of spinners from India to Texas in August 2019.
For 70 years, BRÜCKNER has been the worldwide partner for all companies which are drying, coating and finishing web-shaped materials: whether clothing fabrics, nonwovens, carpet, glass or coatings – the variety of materials to be processed has never been limited.
Today, it is no longer just a question of machines, but rather of automation and control systems. The topic of digitization and Industry 4.0 opens up completely new possibilities for increasing productivity, reducing the use of resources and improving quality. In addition, an increasing shortage of skilled workers can be addressed by more intelligent software.
BRÜCKNER has invested, developed and implemented a lot in this area in recent years:
Intelligent assistance systems monitor the machine settings in the background and provide the machine operator with information on how to run the system even more productively and consuming less resources. Studies have shown that optimizing production parameters can increase production speed by up to 40% and/or reduce energy consumption by up to 30%.
A newly developed simulation tool helps to optimize existing recipes. The many machine parameters to be set have been reduced to the essentials and can in future be calculated automatically on the basis of the textile key data.
For the service, there is a new maintenance tool that proactively gives the machine operator or maintenance department service instructions that can be tracked in a logbook. In future, a newly developed online service platform will support our customers with all service inquiries. The technicians communicate directly with the customer via video conferencing – partly with augmented reality. Documents such as circuit diagrams or maintenance manuals can be viewed and explained together and spare parts can be ordered directly. For regular maintenance processes, photo or video illustrations can be stored in local language.zTechnically caused downtimes can be significantly reduced by these new systems. This increases system availability and thus productivity.
The exchange of machine data with higher-level control station or ERP systems is easily possible with OPC-UA. This allows to rationalize processes in the textile factory and to monitor the quality.
In addition to these efforts in the field of automation, BRÜCKNER also demonstrates the great diversity of their experience and product portfolio. This diversity and consulting competence have been built up over many years of innovation.
Pic 1: BRÜCKNER Sanfor line
For example, BRÜCKNER has invested a lot in the denim sector and has also increased its personnel. The German market leader offers integrated finishing systems for pigment dyeing, synthetic resin finishing and coating: All components from the entry area, padder, IR pre-dryer, minimum application unit, coating unit, stenter, curing / hotflue, cooling, to the exit area are available from the market leader and systems supplier BRÜCKNER.
Top-dyeing or finishing of both sides of the fabric is usually carried out with the BRÜCKNER padder. One-sided functionalization or dyeing is carried out with the minimum application unit. The experts from BRÜCKNER answer any question and are happy to explain the advantages of the respective processes.
Particularly noteworthy is the economical finishing with minimum application technology and another important component in the finishing of denim fabrics is the proven BRÜCKNER Sanfor line POWER-SHRINK, which will be presented at this trade fair. The specialists at ITMA will be happy to provide further information.
The BRÜCKNER POWER-COLORTHERM Hotflue ensures uniform drying of the fabric over the entire width of the chambers. Even with narrow fabric webs on a wider machine, the dyeing results are optimal. Due to the symmetrical design and the inverter-controlled fans, the uniform air distribution through the upper and lower nozzles makes a volume adjustment via mechanical flaps superfluous. Optionally available are patented, driven special spreading rollers for crease-free operation with sensitive fabrics (stripe satin / percale / weft-elastic fabric) as well as a highly effective, fully automatic roller cleaning system.BRÜCKNER can offer new concepts in the field of continuous dyeing. The continuously improved POWER-INFRATHERM IR pre-dryer has heating and cooling times of less than 5 seconds. The stripe-free drying burner segments made of special metal fibre and the large temperature control range ensure the consistent and reproducible high fabric quality.
The BRÜCKNER specialists in Barcelona are also available to answer your questions in this area and will be pleased to advise you.
Pic 2: Entry zone of the new VNE2 multi-layer stenter
BRÜCKNER also has something new to offer in the field of multi-layer stenters. Multi-layer stenters are mostly used where little space is available. They are suitable for finishing woven or dimensionally stable knitted fabric, nonwovens, needle felt, technical textiles or for the wool industry.
With the new BRÜCKNER POWER-FRAME VNE multi-layer stenter, only one machine operator is required, as the entry and the exit are on the same machine side. This applies both to the version with two and with six fabric passages.
The new VNE machine concept offers the highest possible power density on a small floor space or a long air flow section in a very confined space. The dryer itself is equipped with BRÜCKNER’s patented split-flow air circulation system and the alternating arrangement in each half compartment additionally ensures optimum and uniform air circulation and thermal treatment of the fabric. Another advantage is the completely lubricant-free fabric transport chain of the multi-layer stenter, because in this version there is absolutely no oil in the dryer interior.
Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, has launched Appretan® NTR, a break-through water-based textile coating binder based on renewable natural ingredients.
After the well reported EarthColors®, a range of dyes synthesized from materials such as almond husks or saw palmetto leaves – bio-waste from the agriculture and herbal industries -, Archroma is launching another new innovation based on natural ingredients. The new product, Appretan® NTR, a water-based textile coating binder developed for applications such as tea bags, coffee filters or capsules, uses a natural, renewable raw material that is widely available near the production site of Lamotte, France, where Appretan® NTR is produced.
The company is committed to developing products in compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable. The new binder, introduced for the very first time at the Techtextil exhibition on 15 May 2019, was developed following these principles. About one third of Appretan® NTR’s active content is based on a polysaccharide from renewable raw materials, allowing a reduction in the use of fossil fuel based resources without compromising performance.
Appretan® NTR does not contain biocides or alkylphenolethoxylates (APEO) and does not release formaldehyde. It has been designed so that the optimum properties can be achieved without additional curing step at high temperature compared to the industry standard process, thus helping to save significant energy for textile producers and the planet. Initially developed for the chemical bonding of non-wovens for technical textiles and coating, Appretan® NTR displays excellent film forming properties and very hydrophobic behavior. In addition, the unique chemistry of this binder makes it resistant to water, mild solvents, oil and fat, and it also provides an increase in dry and wet tensile strength. Appretan® NTR can also be applied in combination with other crosslinkers.
Using Archroma’s best-in-class knowledge of food contact regulations, Appretan® NTR has also been tailored for customers who operate in the highly regulated, growing market of hot liquid filtration. Appretan® NTR complies with global food contact standards, such as FDA 176 -170, BfR XXXVI and BfR XXXVI/1, which certifies the suitability of the end-product even in conditions such as immersion in boiling water. “Appretan® NTR represents a break-through in the area of coating binders, demonstrating again that it is possible to challenge the status quo and to create chemistry that is gentler on the environment,” Damien Corpet, Global Head of Product and Technology Innovation, Binders and Reactive Resins, at Archroma, comments. “We are proud to bring to the industry a new generation of binders that relies more on the natural and safe materials that surround us and less on classical petroleum based raw materials, helping to minimize our dependence on fossil fuel resources.”
China has started showing interest in buying United States’ cotton. There has been some movement in the United States’ cotton to China, which is a positive signal. This is in anticipation of a positive trade deal between China and the United States.
Cotton industry stakeholders who met this morning at Lubbock-based Plains Cotton Growers’ (PCG), Inc., focused their attention on the planting season ahead. With the ginning process completed this week in the High Plains of Texas, it is hoped that the High Plains’ cotton production will cross the 4 million bales mark. “Demand for cotton is there,” stated one merchant at the meeting. This is evident at the December Futures value for the new crop (77.60 cents). This is somewhat high, given the volume of cotton left to sell, somewhere about half to three quarter of a million in the United States.
China’s buying is certainly hampered with the 25% tariff and the future buying in volumes depends on a favorable trade deal, that needs to be accomplished sooner. While China normally goes for high quality cotton, they are interested in lower grades (31 and 41 color grade) at a discounted price. Trade deal will enable to push these cottons into the China market. “Everybody is hopeful that a deal can be finalized sooner to clear the way for cotton to move into China,” stated Shawn Wade, Director of Policy Analysis and Research at PCG. On the quality note, this year’s average micronaire for the cotton bales classed at Lubbock USDA classing office has been 4.07, which is good number compared with the last year’s average of 3.21.
World leading manufacturers of water-based screen-printing inks, MagnaColours® have developed a brand new under base ink that will provide plastisol printers with an economical solution to significantly improve the handle and softness of their prints, whilst also achieving considerable cost savings for printers.
Previewed at ISS Long Beach 2019 to excellent response from the screen-printing industry, MagnaPrint® Killer Base will be launched to market on the 8th April 2019 and is set to enable plastisol screen-printers take their first steps into the growing popularity of water-based printing.
Killer Base is designed to be used as a water-based replacement for the first layer of plastisol ink or as an alternative option for printers using discharge under bases. With high opacity and excellent fibre matting down properties, the new Killer product provides a smooth, silk-like under base for further layers of plastisol ink to be printed over, and also prevents fribulation and pin-holing of fabrics. Further benefits of the product include minimal print weight and reduced applications costs whilst having none of the pot-life implications associated with using a discharge under base. Killer Base has been developed to improve print appearance and handle whilst simultaneously providing significant cost savings for printers.
Tom Abbey, Owner and Chairman at Magna Colours said, “Killer Base is very exciting new product for us at Magna and we’ve already received a great response from brands and printers. It can provide plastisol screen printers with their first steps into water-based printing and help them to start the process of making the switch to our environmentally sensitive formulations. Killer Base is suitable for small print-shops looking to improve the handle of plastisol prints or just beginning the process of moving to water-based inks by starting with a single screen. It’s also perfect for larger printing companies who now understand the virtues and benefits of water-based printing, including process improvements, end product satisfaction and environmental performance. With Killer Base, we’re also showing that switching to Magna water-based inks makes economic sense for screen-printers.”
Not only will Killer Base be launched in April 2019, the brand new MagnaPrint® Fade Out will also be available. A special effect ink from the MagnaColours® Vintage range, Fade Out is designed to gradually fade following washing, creating controlled ‘wash-down’ and distressed effects. This new ink can be used as an overprint with other ink systems enabling hidden printed areas to be revealed within the design over time, and offering lots of potential in the fashion printing world.
Managing Director at Magna Colours, Helen Parry said “Developing inks and solutions that provide screen-printers with brand new effects to incorporate into their garments is a key part of what we do at Magna. The MagnaLab are constantly hard at work, driving innovation in water-based screen printing and we’re pleased to be able to offer such an extensive range of inks.”
In this 2019 ITMA year, Benninger is celebrating its 160th anniversary. This anniversary stands primarily for 160 years of commitment to textiles, but also for 160 years of responsibility towards sustainable textile production. Thanks to consistent innovation and the continuous improvement and further development of our products, processes and services, for the past 160 years the name Benninger has stood for textile finishing plants that are particularly resource-efficient.
At this year’s ITMA Barcelona BENNINGER will be presenting its latest developments:
The Benninger-Küsters CPB dyeing centre for knitwear and woven fabrics – the only salt-free cold dyeing process
The TEMPACTA washing steamer for knitted fabrics with freshwater supply that is controlled by the degree of contamination
The TRIKOFLEX drum washing machine that is available up to a working width of 5400 mm. In addition, a specially developed expander roller for sensitive fabrics will be exhibited.
BENNINGER – Küsters Multipad – the new development for complex impregnation tasks on woven fabrics and knitwear with electronically monitored, automatic lubrication
Salt-free dyeing of woven fabrics and knitwear
Salt-free dyeing without the use of energy is only possible using the cold pad batch (CPB) dyeing process. This process is also becoming increasingly popular in tropical and subtropical regions, which is reason enough for Benninger-Küsters to adapt the CPB systems even more effectively to the climatic conditions. The heart of our CPB system is the BENNINGER KÜSTERS DYPAD, which we will also be presenting again this year at the ITMA Barcelona. BENNINGER is the only textile machine manufacturer with the know-how of the original S-roller technology, which is synonymous with an even dyeing result across the entire fabric width.
The TEMPACTA washing steamer has been especially developed for all low-tension washing processes and is mainly used for diffusion washing (fastness washing). The unit has a consistent counterflow water supply. Online measurement of the degree of contamination regulates the necessary amount of fresh water in order to a.) guarantee the lowest possible water and energy consumption and b.) ensure a high reproducibility of the washing result.
Nothing is impossible: Tension-free and crease-free washing of textiles up to 5400mm
The TRIKOFLEX drum washing compartment has the highest mechanical washing efficiency thanks to the double drum technology and the front and back washing technology. Crease-free fabric transport is guaranteed, even with sensitive fabric. In addition, BENNINGER has developed a cylindrical expanding roller for particularly sensitive textiles for wet and steam applications. The washing compartment is rounded off with the HYDROVAC vacuum-water extraction system. Since each reaction process is followed by a washing process in wet finishing, 70% of the energy consumption is incurred during washing. For this reason, Benninger washing compartments are insulated so that up to 50% of the radiated energy can be saved here.
BENNINGER Küsters MULITPAD – there’s nothing that can’t be impregnated
The newly-developed BENNINGER KÜSTERS Multipad is an absolute highlight with regard to flexible impregnation tasks. The unit is equipped with an optional double impregnation feature and is suitable both for heavy denim articles and for very light knitwear. One of the special applications is over-dyeing and mercerising of denim. The Multipad is also used for cold bleaching and pre-treatment of knitwear.
IoT – networked and informed at all times
The topic of the “internet of things” (IoT) is also becoming increasingly important in the textile machinery industry. True to the principle “trust is good, control is better”, the important operating parameters of the BENNINGER systems are continuously monitored in a closed control circuit. Deviations are detected and corrected immediately.
Particularly quality-critical parameters are forwarded to those responsible by means of modern IoT technologies and an alarm is sounded in the event of limit value violations. A good example of this is the central bearing lubrication on the BENNINGER KÜSTERS Dyepad: The critical lever bearings of the padder are permanently lubricated, malfunctions are reported and the lubricant is automatically replenished. Another example is online monitoring of the air-conditioned electrical circuit cabinets.
A newly revised maintenance manager provides information about the maintenance status of the system at any time and generates a recommendation as well as a schedule for the next maintenance cycle. Another example of modern process monitoring is the newly-developed online measurement of the degree of contamination of the washing water and the resulting optimisation of water consumption.
To give our customers an overview of their production facility at all times, we have further developed the established management information system BEN-iDATA. This allows the customer to query all important machine data, the maintenance status and the ecological footprint of the current production batch at any time and from any place. Last but not least, Benninger has developed an electronic ticket system for service assistance, which transmits diagnostic data at the time of the event to the Teleservice team in our main facility at the customer’s request. This enables us to offer our customers efficient and timely support.
Denim! What you don’t think without it if you are a crazy fashion lover? Denim doing its best to meet your fashion demand whatever style you think. Indigo stripe denim makes crazier look specially for women. Today I will discuss with indigo stripe denim development process for both slasher and rope dyeing. Lets go . . .
Indigo stripe denim already developed in Bangladesh. At first development came from slasher technology and then rope technology. For both process development is same just one is continuous and another is discontinuous process.
Indigo shade is better for stripe denim. For slasher dye you have to make one or more grey beam in bypass without dyeing though its continuous process. Yarn tension is important for this process and also good sizing. According to fabric design you have to make plan how much yarn you want to dye and how much you want to keep undyed. For rope dye its little different process. Though it’s discontinuous process so no need to separate yarn during dyeing. You have to make plan from LCB how much you want to keep undyed.
A good sizing its demand for indigo stripe making though leasing is more important. Leasing of dyed yarn with undyed yarn keeps good parallel arrangement of yarn in size beam which brings good weaving efficiency. Leasing beam is easy to drawing according to design and brings less crossing.
Weaving acts like a magician of this development. For conventional stripe denim development weaving performs its best to reach perfect outcome. In weaving you have to drawing yarn to the reed and heald frame according to weave design you want to produce. It’s easy but need special attention of weavers. You can change the plan and design in weaving but extra yarn can face cross in size beam. There are few design given for better understanding. It’s also important that do not go broken drawing plan. Just maintain 1,2,3,4 or 1,2,3 or 1,2 etc.
You can weave with stretch or rigid as you want. But stretch options are more fashionable for jeans. If you want rigid development then it’s important of fabric end use. Recently denim shirts developed from 30/s or 40/s count which are good. You can use coarser count to make jackets or shorts. Using cotton is more comfortable in this style.
From junior to Senior there are lot of variations of this indigo stripe use. Though you can print like indigo stripe but original weave structure give you more contrast look in fashion. Basically ladies skinny, Men’s shirts, Jackets, Shorts, Kids overall are main attractions for stripe denim.
A Grand Iftar Mahfil-2019 has been successfully organized at BUFT permanent Campus, Multipurpose Hall by Faculty of Textile Engineering (FTE) in association with BUFT TEXTILE CLUB (BTC). In This Grand Iftar Mahfil-2019, Honorable Member of Parliament (MP) Engr. Mozaffar Hossain, Jamalpur-05; Engr. Shafiqur Rahman, President, The Institution of Textile Engineers and Technologists (ITET); Engr Md. Shakhawat Hossain Talukder, Secretary General, The Institution of Textile Engineers and Technologists (ITET); Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Honorable Vice Chancellor (Acting), BUFT, Muzaffar U. Siddique, Founder Chairman, Board of Trustees, BUFT; Dr. Eng. Abu Bakr Siddique, Dean Faculty of TE; Md. Abdur Rouf, Head, Department of TE; Md. Eanamul Haque Nizam, Advisor, BUFT Textile Club (BTC), members of BUFT Textile Club ; faculties of TE & TEM; Textile Alumnus and running students of TE & TEM were present at the grand event. During their speech Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Honorable Vice Chancellor (Acting), BUFT requests them to accept the students of TE not only for Textile Factory Job but also as a member of ITET. Engr. Mozaffar Hossain MP & Engr. Shafiqur Rahman confirmed the membership of ITET of the faculty of Textile Engineering (FTE). After visiting all the LABS, Class room, Campus, research facility of FTE they also recommend the Faculty of Textile Engineering (FTE) can get the IEB accreditation too.