TEXtalks is an international textile magazine which aims to provide it's readers a blend of the latest technological and commercial advances and publications of latest research work in the field of textiles. Their aim is not only to ensure the provision of such reading material but also to provide quality to our readers.
“Stay a winner. With Mayer & Cie.” That is our motto for ITMA 2019. At our press roundtables at the fair, we want to get you acquainted with our efforts to help our customers remain on the winning side. That includes our enhanced machines; new premium types and a machine study that makes a long-established technology shine in new splendour. Our customers definitely profit from developments in the field of services, too. We have accomplished them in an ambitious sprint to digitise our company.
We offer three sessions of press roundtables at ITMA. Each will have its own focus and hosts. All sessions will be held at our booth C204 in Hall 8.0. After having answered your questions, you will have the opportunity to inspect our exhibits.
Technology focus – Friday 21 June 2019, 11 hrs.
We want to introduce you to our machine study that brings an established technology to a new flight of fancy. This is also a perfect opportunity to find out more about our latest developments in technology, machines and applications. Marcus Mayer, Managing Director of Mayer & Cie., and Axel Brünner, Head of Product Management and Service, will be your hosts.
Sales focus – Friday 21 June 2019, 16 hrs.
Benjamin Mayer, Managing Director of Mayer & Cie., and Wolfgang Müller, Head of Sales as well as Pre- and After Sales, will share their views on developments in the circular knitting industry. They will show how Mayer & Cie. has tackled the past year’s downturn in demand and how new areas of business are evolving.
Technology and service focus – Saturday 22 June 2019, 11 hrs.
This roundtable will be hosted by Axel Brünner, Head of Product Management and Service, and Wolfgang Müller, Head of Sales and Pre- and After Sales. They will give you an insight in our technological advantage and our latest developments in terms of both machines and services.
A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG will demonstrate a range of new advances made possible by Industry 4.0 techniques at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain, from June 20-26.
At stand D101 in Hall 2, visitors will discover the possibilities of ‘digital twin’ capability – now being made available for all Monforts machine systems – and that by exploiting the latest advanced sensor technology, comprehensive technical machine data can now be virtually mapped in the cloud in real time.
The data can be easily accessed using the new Monforts Smart Support and Smart Check apps for an instantaneous status overview.
All specifications relating to machine performance and the production process can be mapped, to enable vastly simplified and targeted analysis for controlled planning and production. Insights harnessed from such analysis can be used to optimize the actual production process.
At the same time, potential sources of error can be anticipated and eliminated, enabling improved machine availability while considerably minimizing downtime.
In addition, the digital twin system provides information on the individual wear parts of a system, such as, for example, converters or gears.
“Operators and mill managers are informed by Smart Check sensors when maintenance or the replacement of key components will be required, well ahead of time,” explains Monforts Vice President Klaus A. Heinrichs. “Direct access to the integrated Monforts webshop allows users to instantly order such parts when they are needed, virtually preventing machine downtime.”
On request, Monforts can also virtually monitor machine performance and pro-actively alert customers to the need for preventative action. In such cases, however, data is only ever called from the cloud by Monforts when customers have given their full consent, in the interests of data security.
Data from Smart Check, for example, can even be used to analyze a system’s energy requirements, allowing machine operation to be optimized by tailoring production runs to the peaks and troughs of electricity costs.
Brussels, Belgium – Sonoco Alcore will debut Sonoco’s new, patented EcoSPAN engineered textile cores to global manufacturers at the upcoming ITMA show, 20-26 June in Barcelona, Spain. Sonoco’s EcoSPAN technology creates a tailored friction surface to drive optimal performance in the demanding realm of Spandex yarn production.
Unlike current Spandex yarn cores that use a film-based material on the outer surface, which creates friction-driven transfer problems and minimizes the ability for customization, EcoSPAN cores use a patented, customizable, aqueous coating, eliminating the need for additional film materials on the outer surface.
This makes EcoSPAN cores 100 percent recyclable – meaning they can be reclaimed and recycled at mills that can accept cores, making them a more sustainable option than comparable cores.
“With EcoSPAN, we have the unique capability to customize the friction performance of the core surface to match each of our customers’ unique requirements,” said Ismael Hernandez, Sonoco Global Technology–Textiles. “And because our surface properties can be tailored so finely, we’re able to create a much more efficient transfer environment that improves string-up and overall operational efficiency – resulting in increased speed, throughput, productivity and profitability, all while considering environmental concerns.”
Trevira GmbH, the specialist for functional fibres and yarns, will be exhibiting at the Techtextil in Frankfurt in May this year, presenting its products for a wide range of technologies and applications in the area of technical and functional textiles. As at the last Techtextil fairs in 2015 and 2017, Trevira will appear at Techtextil 2019 together with other exhibitors owned by parent company Indorama Ventures. Sustainability will play a key part in Trevira’s display and across the entire Indorama joint fair booth, which will reveal a number of new developments.
One sustainable product to be viewed at the fair will be a pillow by our Portuguese customer Carlos Manuel Salgado Costa, Ltd. (Analar®). The filling for the pillow consists of 95% biopolymer PLA. PLA fibres from sustainable raw materials offer a sustainable alternative to petroleum-based fibres, and PLA is recyclable and 100% biodegradable with industrial composting. Because of its sustainability, this pillow has qualified for our Sinfineco brand, only awarded to
sustainable Trevira products.
AEROPOWDER, a start-up company based in London, has launched a new sustainable product, pluumo– a biodegradable, innovative packaging material that harnesses the power of feathers. Feathers have naturally insulating properties, and to find a fibre that would help realise their design idea, AEROPOWDER turned to Trevira GmbH. We developed special binding fibres – bicomponent fibres consisting of two different biopolymers. This productive collaboration between Trevira and AEROPOWDER has resulted in the creation of a completely biodegradable insulating material.
Like the use of biopolymers, recycling plays a key role in Trevira’s policies. We offer filament yarnson the basis of recycled PET bottles. For these filament yarns the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification has been requested. Filament yarns from recycled PET bottles are available at Trevira as raw white and spun-dyed flat and textured yarns in various colours and yarn counts.
At the joint fair booth, Trevira will also present a piece-dyed fabric by Schmitz Textiles GmbH + Co. KG made of flame retardant Trevira filament yarns from recycled materials.
Flame retardant, recycled Trevira staple fibres are also currently at the development stage
Antimony-freeflame retardant staple fibres will be offered by Trevira as a standard from the second half of 2019. This will help us to meet the market demand for specific applications.
Another innovation in the area of filament yarns for flame retardant polyester home textiles can be seen in the use of Trevira CS fabrics for the outdoor sector. The hotel, restaurant and shipping sectors rely on fabrics that are equally suitable for outdoor and indoor use. Indoors, fabrics must comply with stringent fire safety legislations. Outdoors, they must meet safety requirements while also offering high fastness to light.
BREATHAIR – a material created to provide breathable upholstery and filling solutions.The structurally innovative BREATHAIR textile, based on a thermoplastic elastomer, is highly water repellent and unusually breathable. As it is also offers excellent stretch qualities and durability, and is lighter than polyurethane but with equal rigidity, it is ideal for use in seat upholstery.
The demand for hybrid yarns also shows no signs of letting up, and yarns with a low-melt component play an important role in a number of sectors, including the automotive industry. Our fair booth will reveal a special fabric development which incorporates our low-melt yarn in the weft, deployed for example in covers for car boots.
Reinach, Switzerland, 20 May 2019 – Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, has launched Appretan® NTR, a break-through water-based textile coating binder based on renewable natural ingredients.
After the well reported EarthColors®, a range of dyes synthesized from materials such as almond husks or saw palmetto leaves – bio-waste from the agriculture and herbal industries -, Archroma is launching another new innovation based on natural ingredients. The new product, Appretan® NTR, a water-based textile coating binder developed for applications such as tea bags, coffee filters or capsules, uses a natural, renewable raw material that is widely available near the production site of Lamotte, France, where Appretan® NTR is produced.
The company is committed to developing products in compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable.
The new binder, introduced for the very first time at the Techtextil exhibition on 15 May 2019, was developed following these principles. About one third of Appretan® NTR’s active content is based on a polysaccharide from renewable raw materials, allowing a reduction in the use of fossil fuel based resources without compromising performance.
Appretan® NTR does not contain biocides or alkylphenolethoxylates (APEO) and does not release formaldehyde. It has been designed so that the optimum properties can be achieved without additional curing step at high temperature compared to the industry standard process, thus helping to save significant energy for textile producers and the planet.
Initially developed for the chemical bonding of non-wovens for technical textiles and coating, Appretan® NTR displays excellent film forming properties and very hydrophobic behavior. In addition, the unique chemistry of this binder makes it resistant to water, mild solvents, oil and fat, and it also provides an increase in dry and wet tensile strength. Appretan® NTR can also be applied in combination with other crosslinkers.
“Appretan® NTR represents a break-through in the area of coating binders, demonstrating again that it is possible to challenge the status quo and to create chemistry that is gentler on the environment,” Damien Corpet, Global Head of Product and Technology Innovation, Binders and Reactive Resins, at Archroma, comments. “We are proud to bring to the industry a new generation of binders that relies more on the natural and safe materials that surround us and less on classical petroleum based raw materials, helping to minimize our dependence on fossil fuel resources.”
The NRW Minister of Economic Affairs Andreas Pinkwart (FDP) pre-sented the NRW Innovation Award in the category of young talent to Dr Valentine Gesché from Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University, short ITA, on Monday. Ms Gesché receives the prize, en-dowed with 50,000 euros, for the development and research of pa-tient-individualised implants.
As head of the Exist research transfer project “PerAGraft”, Ms Ges-ché and her team are now working to bring this platform technology to market. Patients with a complex aortic aneurysm suffer from an increasing, pathological and permanent aneurysm of the aorta and shall be saved from the life-threatening rupture of the aorta by an individual implant. The innovative procedure reduces the delivery time of a customised implant from up to eight weeks today to less than a week.
“As life expectancy increases, so does the need for such implants for endovascular aortic repair,” explains Valentine Gesché.
“Ms Gesché is an outstanding young scientist and has the entrepre-neurial spirit to put her research results into practice for the benefit of people. Beyond that her work on the individualised medicine shows that the digitisation of engaged entrepreneurs can open health-economical and business perspectives for the benefit of patients, says Economics and Innovation Minister Professor Dr Andreas Pinkwart over the engineer.
The NRW Innovation Award is one of the best endowed awards of its kind in Germany. In addition to Valentine Gesché in the “Young Talent” category, the innovation prize worth 100.000 euros was awarded to Professor Brunhilde Wirth, Director of the Institute for Human Genetics in Cologne, and the honorary prize went to Professor Helga Rübsamen-Schaeff, AiCuris GmbH & Co. KG.
At Techtextil and Texprocess the textile and apparel industries displayed their most progressive side and even in challenging times still inspires a positive mood throughout the sector as a result. Record numbers of exhibitors and the highest levels of international participation to date have once again confirmed Frankfurt as the sector’s global marketplace.
With a total of 1,818 exhibitors from 59 countries and, in all, some 47,000 trade visitors from 116 countries1, the two biggest editions of Techtextil and Texprocess ever to be held, ended today in Frankfurt. Accordingly, for four days, the Frankfurt Fair and Exhibition Centre once again became the leading international platform for users of technical textiles from the widest variety of sectors, as well as for manufacturers of apparel, fashionwear, upholstered furniture and leather products.
“Over the last four days, Techtextil and Texprocess have brought together the entire world of textiles and their areas of application in Frankfurt. This double-barrelled trade fair had, in particular, three major
things going for it: a larger number of top decision-makers, higher levels of international participation and a greater degree of satisfaction amongst exhibitors than ever before. Performance, functionality, and smart textiles – in abundance
There was, amongst other things, strong representation at Techtextil for suppliers of fabrics for functional apparel and of smart textiles with integral lighting, heating and sensory functionality, which are used in sportswear, fashionwear, outdoor clothes and workwear. With these products, companies like Schoeller, Freudenberg, RUDOLF and Lenzing attracted designers, product managers and buyers from a host of wellknown clothing manufacturers. “We had loads of people at our stand, who were looking for specific things, including many well-known brands such as Alpha Tauri, Mammut, North Face and Tommy Hilfiger,” confirms Hendrikus van Es, Head of Protection Textiles and Member of the Senior Management Team of Schoeller Textil AG.
Texprocess a huge boost for the sector
“Texprocess has inspired a very positive mood amongst suppliers. The manufacturers of sewing and apparel technology and of machinery for the processing of technical textiles and leather, have been reporting a certain reluctance to invest amongst their customers, caused by, among other things, current international trade barriers,” says Elgar Straub, General Manager of the Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies (TFL) division of the VDMA (Association of German Machine and Plant Manufacturers). “We look towards the future with a great deal of positivity.”
SDC has announced the appointment of Sue Bolton as their new President. The ceremony took place at the SDC’s annual Day of Celebration held recently in York.
Sue joined the SDC in 1974. She went to Bradford University to study for a Bachelor of Technology degree in Color Chemistry and Color Technology. Sue became a member of the SDC Bradford student section, eventually becoming chair.
Sue was accepted by Marks and Spencer as a graduate recruit. Her first role was as laboratory technologist, testing textiles, among many things, for color fastness and physical performance.
Sue’s role at M&S evolved so her role equivalent today would be legal compliance and product safety manager for non-food. In parallel, she became extensively involved with BSI, CEN and ISO standards committees primarily related to textiles, and since 2006 has chaired a CEN working group on safety of children’s clothing (TC 248 WG 20), and BSI committees on burning behavior of textiles (TCI 66/-/8) and care labeling and cleansing of textiles (TCI 82). From 2012-2017, Sue was chairman of ISO TC 38 SC1, the international standards committee for color fastness of textiles.
In 2004, she left Marks and Spencer to establish Bolton Consultancy Ltd, providing textile consultancy to micro and global brands.
In 2005, Sue was invited to chair the SDC’s Technical Co-ordination Committee and joined SDC’s Council. Amongst other roles she was elected Honorary Secretary 2013-2018.
Sue gained her ASDC and CCol in 1981 and was awarded the Society’s silver medal in 1991 and gold medal in 2009.
Sue commented “My Presidential mission is to promote the benefits of SDC membership, education and qualifications, particularly Chartered Colorist. This will promulgate better use of Best Available Technology by the coloration industry, leading to reduced environmental impact“.
Mr Zafaryab Haider, Director General Pest Warning & Quality Control of Pesticides Punjab said that Pakistani cotton demand is increasing in the international markets. He said that he hopes that this year the cotton crop would be profitable.
He urged cotton producers to follow the guidelines provided by the Agriculture Department for cultivation of cotton crop.
Due to the increase in cotton demand, PCGA is interested in providing Rs 200 per maund extra premium to growers over clean cotton picking.
A subsidy of Rs 800 and Rs 500 was being offered per bag for potash and DAP for proper use of fertilizers and to reduce the cost of cotton crop production.
He advised growers to complete cotton sowing by May 31 and cultivate recommended cotton seeds only. He also stressed on keeping a strength of 35,000 cotton plants per acre.
Recently, the 3.6pc rupees devaluation against dollar in less than 24 hours has been declared extremely disastrous for the nation. Chairman, Value Added Textile Export Associations stated that such high devaluation will increase the cost of doing business and diminish the last restraint of inflation for the masses. Pakistani rupee devaluation against dollar in the last 9 months has been approximately 20.16pc from Rs 123.6 to Rs 149.07.
This statement has been jointly issued by Mr Jawed Bilwani (Central Chairman PHMA), Mr Zubair Motiwala (Chairman CAPTA), Mr Rafiq Godil (Chairman PAKSEA), Mr Farrukh Maqbool (Chairman TMA), Mr Abdus Samad (Chairman PCMA), Mr Khawaja Usman (Former Chairman PCFA), Mr Shaikh Muhammad Shafiq (Former Chairman PRGMEA) and Mr Arif Lakhani Zonal (Chairman APTPMA).
For the textile export sector, they added that cotton yarn is available on international price therefore devaluation increases cotton and yarn price in rupees. Moreover, due to lower utilities cost, cotton yarn price is cheaper in Bangladesh as compared to Pakistan. Due to the devaluation, the cost of imported raw material will also increase, resultantly increasing the cost of exportable goods. It will have negative impact on exports and will lead to massive inflation, resulting to anarchy. Commodities will become costlier and the manufacturing sector will also suffer. Consequently, the industry will either shut down or become more uncompetitive in the international market because of increased cost of manufactured goods. They added the profit margin of Value Added Textile Exporters is hardly 3% to 4%.
Devaluation brings no benefits for the Value Added Textile Export Sector. Exports of Value Added Textile Sector during the FY 2017-18 are US $12.06bn while exports of Textile Raw Materials are US $1.46bn.
Previously, when Government depreciated the rupee by 5% foreign buyers demanded discounts for new orders due to devaluation and took 50% of advantage from the exporters. Due to uncertainty and recurring fluctuations rupee dollar parity, both buyers and exporters are reluctant for new orders as both are uncertain about the cost of the product.
Such state of affairs when the dollar is appreciating and banks are also reluctant to fix dollar rates, the Textile Exporters will be aggrieved in case of BMR because some machineries are delivered in 6 to 8 months and cost of machinery is increased to 20% during the period.