A small solar system designed to power lights and possibly your refrigerator for an emergency is easy to build. It is something that you can do yourself without a lot of training.
If you have read this post, you know how to figure out how many panels and batteries you need. You can use either new or used solar panels.
To build your small solar system you will need
Solar panels — make sure they are matching panels, same size same manufacturer. You can mix some panels but it takes a bit of expertise to get this right.
Controller — make sure the controller you get will handle the voltage put out by your panels and it needs to protect your batteries by keeping them from being overcharged. Not all controllers do this.
Inverter — your inverter needs to be big enough to handle the draw you intend to place on it.
Storage batteries — get good quality deep cycle batteries.
Miscellaneous wiring — make sure the wiring will handle the current draw.
Get good quality components; go to a good reputable supplier like sierrasolar.com. They are a good source of reliable information.
Now that you have all the parts, it is fairly simple to put it together, assuming you have some minimal electrical skills.
Here you can see the wiring on a solar wagon. This shows the batteries and the inverter.
Once you have your panels, determine where you want to place them. They need good sun exposure for as many hours as possible. One option that I have seen is to build a solar wagon, . You can build a unit that is portable and you can move to make the best use of the sun. A wagon can carry enough panels to supply lights and run a refrigerator.
With a small solar system, it is best to connect the panels in series. This means you attach the positive leads to the negative leads. Two 12-volt panels will produce 24 volts. So for each panel, you add your voltage increases. This is different from a large system where you may have strings of panels in series and the strings then connected in parallel.
Next, attach the leads from the solar panels to the controller. Then run your wires from the solar panels to the batteries. The batteries should be wired in parallel. Your jumpers between the batteries and to the inverter should be out of 2 AWG cable for up to 100 amps. For 200 amps you should use 3/0 copper.
This shows the panels connected in series, the controller and the batteries
This is how you wire your batteries in parallel
The inverter should be connected to the batteries. In mine, I would put a box with at least two 15-amp breakers between the inverter and the appliances. This is not mandatory but is a good safety feature.
There are several ways to build these small solar systems, some are more complicated than others. This one is about as simple as you can make. Have fun.
The older I get the more I see problems that older preppers face. Since prepping hit the mainstream back in 2008-09, we all have a good 8-9 years under our belts. My own kids were just 8 and 6 when my wife and I started prepping, and now our oldest is making college plans. Time flies.
I know you all plan to be that rare exception that is still able to walk long distances in your 90’s and not taking any medication. If that happens, then good for you! You were blessed with some amazing genes. Unfortunately, that will likely not be the case for most people, even the most devout prepper. Most of us end up facing some type of serious limiting medical problems. Many are dependent on medications, have mobility problems or cognitive problems, even after living a healthy lifestyle for decades. You may be the rare exception but you don’t know what will happen tomorrow.
So what are some of the problems older preppers face?
Mobility — While I have not had any mobility problems yet, it seems like many of the people around me are. Last year we discovered that my fairly young wife had degenerative arthritis in her hip joint and required a total hip replacement. Suddenly, she was having to use a walker to get around the house, and I realized the importance of having access to things like walkers, crutches, canes, and wheelchairs. They are often in garage sales, very cheap, and can be stored in the attic or an outbuilding as they don’t necessarily need to be protected from the elements.
Cognitive Challenges — Aging results in normal changes in cognition. Three specific changes occur: reduced processing speed, greater tendency to be distracted and reduced capacity to process and remember new information (working memory). Many of us have seen this happen with grandparents and older parents. You may have to write notes to remind them of things and just, in general, be more patient.
Visual Challenges — Many older adults have problems with vision. About 2/3 of adults with vision problems are older than 65. Make sure you keep your eyeglasses up to date and have extra pairs. You have cataracts, get them fixed at your first opportunity as the surgery will be covered by insurance and Medicare. My wife depends on reading glasses and she has stocked up on at least a dozen extra pairs.
Hearing Challenges – Hearing loss is common in older adults, affecting 1 in 3 people older than 60 and half of those older than 85. This is a hard one to prepare for, long-term, as hearing aids will be useless without batteries. By all means, stock up on as many batteries as you can and store them in their original packaging at room temperature. When you communicate with hard of hearing people, face them directly when talking to them. Speak loudly and clearly. I have hearing problems, and if someone is not facing me, it is much harder to understand them.
Bed supplies – You may need oversize diapers, rubber sheets, bedpans, and porta potties to assist someone who is unable to make bathroom trips on their own. This would be a good time to stock up on hospital quality cleaning supplies, like these handy wipes and nitrile gloves.
Our partner site, The Survival Mom, has an excellent article with more suggestions for preparing for old age as preppers or for caring for aging loved ones. You can read that article at this link.
The problems that older preppers face can be quite serious. For instance, what do you do with your parents who are in a nursing home and require 24-hour care? Homecare nursing is something to learn and prepare for. These are decisions that are best made ahead of time. You may even consider asking them what they would want you to do.
Remember you can’t stock everything for every contingency, just do the best you can, but plan ahead, if not for yourself then for aging parents and other loved ones.
I’m not sure when I picked up the odd habit of looking over my shoulder and, in general, being paranoid about my surroundings, but I did. My wife tells me I “look scary”, even when I’m totally relaxed and on vacation in Disney World. So be it. That’s my lot in life and she married me anyway. When I think of scenarios in which my home and family could be in jeopardy, you can bet I’ve researched plenty of home security plans, gear, and, yes, weaponry. My paranoia will pay off someday.
If you haven’t yet read the post titled, Protecting Your Home or Camp with Early Warning Systems, Part 1, stop and read it now. It’s a short list of cheap, low-tech, and simple methods to create as much noise as possible when your home or property is accessed by an intruder. In this article, you will see some of those systems illustrated with photos and a couple of additional tactics.
For the purposes of this post, no efforts have been made to camouflage anything in the pictures. In fact, the opposite has been done to make everything more visible. Now, these are all early warning systems that can be used around your campsite or home to warn you of the approach of animals or prowlers.
First, let me give you a couple of additional ideas for early warning systems and then we will review the strategies mentioned in Part 1.
Almost free early warning systems
Plastic bottles are everywhere. When was the last time you stepped on one? They make a lot of noise, especially if they are grouped together with duct tape. A group of plastic bottles spread in a path and covered with a dark cloth makes a good early warning system in the dark.
Rock ins the landscaping around your home make noise when someone approaches.
Lay a number of plastic water bottles on the ground and cover with a dark cloth. This works well at night.
When you landscape your yard, put small rocks around the outside, this makes it hard for someone to quietly approach your home both during the day and at night, and if you have an alert watchdog, you now have two layers of early warning devices.
More about low-tech tripwires
A tin can of rocks works for an improvised bell
Cow bells or fishing bells work well
Tripwires will work both day and night if you use line or light wire that blends into your surroundings. If you use monofilament, remember that it will reflect light. The whole idea with tripwires is to set them in areas that you know someone will have to cross to approach their objective. Use Google Earth as explained in this article to locate paths an intruder would likely take to access your home and property and then lay your tripwires accordingly. Depending on the terrain around your home, you may want to set them in depth.
The tripwires can be rigged to various types of early warning systems, such as tin cans containing rocks and various types of bells. Remember, if you use cans, run them through the dishwasher or wash them thoroughly with hot, soapy water to remove all food residue. You don’t want animals messing with them at night. Flares and electronic devices can be attached to tripwires as well.
The YoYo fishing reels can be rigged to drag something across the ground when they are tripped. This works best on asphalt or concrete.
A bell on a tripwire will make a surprising amount of noise at night
With a higher tripwire you can hang a can over something so that it is jerked upward, making noise
A can of rocks and a line stretched Across the backside of a gate will make noise when someone opens it. I darken the lines to make them easier to see
I feel that if you intend to use early warning systems, you should understand the simplest systems first, such as the ones in this article. You need to go out and try these for yourselves. They are not always as easy to set up as you might think. At some point, your life could depend on them. Practice setting them up, practice tripping them to see the results, and then practice some more.
A good dog can be both an early warning system and a deterrent.
In a real emergency, it doesn’t matter whether you are bugging in or out, you may need to be warned of intruders. Today many of us sit at home with the doors locked, window closed and air conditioning keeping the temperature under control. After a disaster, we may have to keep all our window open, to try to stay cool. This eliminates some of the security we normally have. If you have people, who are trying to take advantage of the situation by looting you may need to rig up some early warning systems.
Fortunately there are many simple ways to give you early warning of intruders. Dogs are great, one of the best early warning systems. Often smaller dogs are more alert and will be quicker to bark. Get your dog ahead of time and get to understand your dog’s reactions. With a bit of training your dog can be a very effective early warning system. In addition, depending on the type of dog they can discourage prowlers.
One of the simplest early warning systems is to set up tripwires. Tripwire systems are very simple to put up and use. You just have to be sure that the tripwires blend in well with the surrounding. Some types of fishing lines works well, you can get fishing line in different colors.
Fishing line should blend in.
These can be used at your home, bugout location or in a campsite. They can be as simple as a tin can hanging on a line with rocks in it and trip wires. Because my hearing is not very good, I recommend cowbells. You can often find them in thrift stores or garage sales and they make lots of noise. I recently saw cowbells on sale at a local feed store for $2 each. Depending on the size of the cowbells, they can be quite loud and may scare someone off. Just remember if you have one tripped you need to make changes to your layout, they may come back.
Using YoYo fishing traps for early warning systems.
They are a spring-loaded wheel with approximately 12 ft of 60 lb test line with a swivel on the end. For most uses, you tie the reel to a tree or other solid anchor point. You then stretch out the line, which turns the wheel compressing the spring. When you get as much line as you want out, there is a small latch that you place in one of the notches in the wheel. When the line is disturbed, it trips the latch and the spring-loaded wheel reels in the fish. You would normally add more line to the trap.
YoYo fishing reels or traps
However, they have an alternate use. They will work well as early warning systems. Simply take a can full of rocks and stretch the string across the area you wish to protect. Set the string at ankle height so that any disturbance will trigger the YoYo fishing reel. You can add fishing line to lengthen the string. When the YoYo fishing reel retracts, it will cause the can to fall or shake, warning you that someone is in the area. There are many other ways that you can use this to trigger a warning, even using it to trigger electronic devices.
A jar hanging from a door knob
Another simple alarm that can be used in your home or even a motel room is to put an empty glass jar upside down on your doorknob. This will fall (and make a loud noise, except on carpet) should someone turn the doorknob. (Warning- the bottle can break leaving glass fragments on the floor). A soda can filled with loose change balanced on the doorknob will make a lot of noise if someone attempts to enter. Windows also easy to trap with cans of change or jars.
You will notice that these are all noise making devices; I am not recommending any devices that can cause bodily harm. These are just a few of the many possible ways you can rig early warning systems to help protect you from intruders. Today we have just discussed low tech methods, in the future we will post an article on higher tech methods.
Here are some free downloads of various books on knots and military manuals that you may find useful. You may want to consider downloading them to an older laptop and sticking it in a Faraday Bag. This will let you keep them handy, even in a worst-case scenario, without the expense of printing them.
I’m a skeptic of just about everything. My wife will tell you I was born disgruntled and contrary, so when I hear certain pieces of prepper advice, again and again, I can’t help but question it. In no particular order, here are 5 pieces of overrated prepper advice that drive me crazy.
Stock up on lots and lots of wheat. Okay, we did that and then realized that our family eats very little bread and we feel a lot healthier on lower-carb diets. My wife buys one loaf of Ezekiel bread (tastes like sandpaper to me, but she likes it), keeps it in the freezer, and it lasts for 3-4 weeks. Here I am, sitting with 10 5-gallon buckets of wheat, almost ready to open a commercial bakery, because that was “the prepper thing to do” when we first started out. Yes, if there is ever a total economic collapse or EMP attack, we will eventually make it through that wheat, but in the meantime, it takes up a lot of space in my food storage pantry. Preppers who have since discovered they or someone in the family is gluten intolerant or has celiac disease could have spent that money on something else. Stocking up on a lot of wheat? Totally overrated advice.
Focus on preparing for worst-case scenarios. Some time ago I received an email from a woman asking, “How do I prepare for when we don’t have electricity anymore?” Huh? I think someone has been reading too much prepper fiction. Yes, an EMP attack could take out the power grid for quite some time, but focusing on that as a prepper is short-sighted. I mean, people with this point of view aren’t interested when I recommend something like rechargeable batteries (this set can be charged using any USB charger) because they’re convinced we will shortly be living in the stone age, so why bother. “The end is near” — yeah, probably not. You’re a whole lot more likely to get stranded by the side of the road, flooded by a massive rainstorm or hurricane, or have to shelter in place for one reason or another. Get fully prepped for those, first, before you follow this particular piece of prepper advice.
Stock up on “survival food”. If there’s one thing I hate, it’s scammers, and there are plenty to be found in the prepper/survival niche. They prey on people’s fears. My wife’s aunt is one example. Somehow, she got on the mailing list of a well-known “survival food” site and began receiving emails that terrified her. Naturally, she began forwarding them to us asking, “What should I do??” The text and videos in the emails were designed to scare her into spending thousands of dollars on so-called survival food — freeze-dried meals in pouches. Now, I’m not against this type of food and we have a bit in our pantry, but the truth is, freeze-dried meals are usually not the very best type of food to store. These meals have their place, but you are limited to those specific recipes — spaghetti with meat sauce, turkey tetrazzini, mashed potatoes. You’d better love those foods more than life itself because you’ll be eating the same things meal after meal after meal.
Better get a bug out location or you’ll die. This one really kills me because in reality, a “bug out location” is a second home. If you’ve ever owned a lake house, a cabin, or another second home, you know it can be a real financial burden. You first have to buy the house/property, make payments, get insurance, furnish the house, pay certain utilities even when you aren’t there, worry about vandalism and other property crimes, and, as a prepper, equip the house and property with everything from stored food and water to medical supplies, fuel, self- and home defense, and so much more. It’s just not practical and for many people, not even desirable. Now, the pro bug-out-location people are going to say, “You’re not supposed to just visit your BOL, you’re supposed to live there.” Well, again, if it’s that easy, most preppers would do it. The truth is, most of these armchair survivalist warrior types work regular 9 to 5 jobs like you and me, and very few of those jobs are possible from some remote BOL. Better advice? Have a number of “safe houses” in mind, varying from 5 or 10 miles away to 100 miles or so. These could be homes of relatives/friends or familiar campsites. Just anywhere you could head to if you really do need to evacuate your home for a few days. After Hurricane Harvey hit, people living in flooded 2-story homes simply moved everything upstairs during the mucking-out and rebuilding so their kids could continue with school and they could continue with their jobs. Their BOL was right under their noses, so to speak.
Read prepper fiction to get some really good prepper advice. Here’s yet another overrated piece of advice because what tends to happen is that people read these books and then take them as gospel truth. Try to convince a die-hard fan of One Second After that most vehicles will continue to run just fine after an EMP and that airplanes won’t fall out of the sky. William Forstchen wrote a compelling book that tugged on their emotions so everything he wrote must be true. There are millions of variables at work in the scenario portrayed in One Second After, and many experts agree that, perhaps, just 30% or so of vehicles would be fully disabled with the others experiencing no effects at all or just needing a quick turn of the key to restart. All prepper fiction comes from the imagination of authors who are only human. They do their research, some more than others, but their main purpose isn’t to provide training but entertainment. Entertainment equals sales, which is very smart on their part. Enjoy prepper fiction but before you stake your life on any particular piece of advice, weigh it against information from experts and your own common sense and experience.
Is there any prepper advice that has rubbed you the wrong way? You know everyone believes it, authors and bloggers pass it on like it’s truth with a capital T, but you aren’t so sure it’s 100% reliable and something everyone should follow without question. What’s on your list of overrated prepper advice?
The capabilities of Google Earth should terrify you. Input an address, any address, in this website and the location pops up in all its 3-D glory. Your vehicles may show up, your backyard with its playset, even, possibly, you in the pool or sunbathing. Without a doubt, Google’s intrusion on our privacy is just beginning. This article provides more in-depth information as to what Google Maps and Google Earth are capable of.
On a whim, I decided to turn the tables on Google Earth, just a bit, and use it for my own purposes. I pulled up our address on Google Earth, and took several screenshots — one of our entire town, a few of my general neighborhood, then a couple of my street, and 2 very close shots of my home, with the idea of using these screenshots to help with my prepping and planning.
Once I created these screenshots, I went to work to figure out how I could best secure and prep my home and our property. This turned out to be an eye-opening experience, and I highly recommend you do the same, as I explain in this article.
For the purpose of this article, I selected a general area in Glendale, Arizona, to illustrate this process as I put Google Earth to work to help with my home security and prepping plans.
SCREENSHOTS #1 and 2: Overview of town
First, grab some screenshots that provide a broad overview of your town, showing highways and other large features.
I can easily see at a glance all major highways and thoroughfares, as well as locations that tend to bring in a lot of traffic, such as churches, a college, sports arenas, a large city park, etc. Glendale, Arizona, is in a desert, so there are no lakes, rivers, dams, bridges, or other features that might have security implications.
This screenshot is valuable in the insights it provides for planning evacuations. In this next screenshot, you get an idea of how difficult, and futile, it would be to try and evacuate should a worst case scenario occur. Unless you live on the far outskirts of this massive city, you can kiss your rear end goodbye — you ain’t goin’ nowhere. If traffic on the very few highways doesn’t kill you, then the miles of surrounding desert will.
In the photo above, imagine that just 30% of the population realizes the need to evacuate. In the screenshot of your own town, take one street at a time, and mark every third house. After just 3 or 4 streets, you’ll soon realize the difficulties with any evacuation. The sheer number of people on the road, even less than 30%, will be staggering in a city the size of the greater Phoenix area.
In the second screenshot, how many routes out of town do you see? There’s I-10, heading east/west, I-17, heading north and south, the 101 loop, that kind of goes nowhere you’d want to go in a major crisis, and then the 51 that meanders through the northern part of Phoenix, again, offering no real escape route.
Take a couple of similar screenshots of your own town. What obvious routes in and out do you see? If you were a terrorist or some other really bad guy, how quickly could you block traffic both in and out of your town or neighborhood? If you aren’t surrounded by impassable deserts, what other natural features might offer challenges? Answers to these questions become more obvious when viewed from many thousands of feet above earth. Thank you, Google Earth!
SCREENSHOT #3 and 4: Zooming in to your neighborhood
This view is where Google Earth really pays off, because now I can identify more specific potential threats as well as sources of help. This neighborhood is similar to one my family lived in (same area), and I’m highlighting the house in the large red box for training purposes, as they say. Let’s review this map using the letter markings I’ve placed in a few key locations.
A: This marks the closest major highway, Loop 101. This is usually the fastest way to get out of town from this point but in a catastrophic event, the highway will shut down in less than 10 minutes. Sheer numbers of people, vehicle accidents, vehicle breakdowns — it’s just not a viable route out of town, unless I’m in front of the very first wave. A while back, I wrote this article about the importance of being in the first wave, and it would be good to review that information now.
B: In the case of this particular neighborhood, there’s a large park to the northeast. That park could become home to vagrants, but it could also become a neighborhood garden or meeting place. Unfortunately, there is no natural water source here as there would be in other parts of the country. In your own Google Earth screenshots, look for natural water features.
C: From the central point of this home, there are 2 possible directions for leaving the driveway. Pulling back a bit, you can see that leaving the neighborhood isn’t all that easy.
If this were my house, I could go to the right and quickly get on a street that would get me out of the neighboorhood. Perhaps not to safety, but at least out of the immediate area. If I turn left from this driveway, I have to take the long way around, and if the emergency is happening in real time, how many others will be pulling out of their driveaways with the same thought in mind.
Again, think about that 30% of people knowing, or being able, to evacuate. Just in this very small segment of a town, that is a LOT of people! Here is where having a few alternate forms of transportation comes in handy. Bicycles could be passed over a fence or wall, allowing for a quick exit. Motorcyles, street bikes, and even hoofing it out on foot — take all those options into consideration when looking for best evacuation routes.
D: I marked a cul-de-sac because these are very common features in neighborhoods. They are desirable for many reasons, but in an evacuation, you could become trapped. It’s also important to know where those cul-de-sacs are, so you don’t inadvertently make a turn into one, ending up in a dead end.
E: This house has an apartment complex immediately behind it. I used to live in an apartment and bear no ill will toward anyone who does, but the fact that apartments are points of high density population increases the potential that criminal types of one form or another could be on the other side of this backyard fence. As well, in a food or water shortage, the obvious source of anything necessary to survival are the homes immediately surrounding the apartment complex.
One other notation I made on Screenshot #3 are red stars highlighting the homes and neighbors that I knew well and/or figured I could possibly count on in an emergency. Using another past neighborhood I lived in, the house to the left is home to a very preparedness-minded Mormon family my kids were friends with, and to the right, was a couple in their 50’s, very active in the shooting sports and also prepper-minded. Due to my keen observation skills, I happen to know that the house on the far left corner is home to a retired member of the U.S. Army — the dead giveaway being the ARMY t-shirt he wears when he mows the lawn. Across the street are 2 former policemen.
Now, there’s no way to know FOR SURE how anyone will react in a severe crisis, including myself, but by getting to know neighbors and just watching for signs of homes/individuals that have military or law-enforcement careers (past or present) as well as various tradespeople (such as the electric company lineman who lives on the next street), it’s all very helpful information to have.
Your next screenshot should be one that encompasses your own street as well as a handful of streets on all sides. Make a note of “friendlies” and, in some cases, “hostiles” — people you already know will cause problems in the aftermath of a major natural disaster or, God forbid, a longterm power outage. It’s better to be aware of this possibility than to let your guard down and become too trusting. With this screenshot, also look for entrances to your neighborhood. How many ways could someone in a vehicle or on foot, get access to your neighborhood or your street? What could you do to prevent entry to your property or, at least, slow them down?
SCREENSHOT #4: Zoom in on your own home from different points of view
In this screenshot, I’ve isolated the target home and noted windows, doors, and a couple of problem areas. To the left are massive trees and bushes that provide handy cover for intruders. In the hot Arizona sun, they also provide some shade to that side of the house, so if I lived here, I’d have to decide whether or not to trim the trees, cut them down, or enjoy the shade.
Another issue is the obvious lack of space between houses. A group of criminals could easily move from one house to the next, stealing, vandalizing, etc. Would it be possible to raise the height of these 2 block fences or take some other measure to discourage any invaders from entering the property, such as planting rose bushes or cacti?
This view is helpful when planning a home fire evacuation with the kids. Pull up this view on Google Earth and show them exactly where they should exit and where the family meeting point will be.
SCREENSHOT #5: Close shot of the house/property front
It’s easy to maneuver the Google Earth screen to focus on the front of a house or property, the back, even the sides, and I encourage you to do that in order to look for other security issues, in particular.
If this house was on a bigger piece of land, I could also look for best locations for outbuildings, a garden, fruit trees, etc.
One of the reasons I wanted to move my family from the Phoenix area is depicted in Screenshot #2 — the massive deserts surrounding the city, the high density population, obvious lack of natural water sources, and the very few roads leading out of the city.
However, none of us live in an ideal location. Our current town was devasted by floods following Hurricane Harvey in August, 2017. Although we have plenty of natural water sources now, they present their own challenges.
Your living situation is probably different — perhaps mountains with only a few roads passing through, miles of flat terrain, high-density population centers, swamps, you name it. Using Google Earth maps will show features and challenges you might not know exist.
I highly recommend using Google Earth to analyze your own prepping and security challenges. Are there any strategies I overlooked?
UPDATE: After posting this, I realized that I need to go through these same steps with my workplace location — identifying safe areas for evacuation, routes home, etc. I suggest you do the same for yourself and any loved ones who work away from home or go to school.
Ratchet straps… most of us have them around in the garage or car trunk. I’ve kept one in the back of my truck for a couple of decades now! Over the years, it has come in handy more than I ever thought it would.
Ratchet straps come in a variety of strengths, widths, lengths, and hooks. The weaving of ratchet straps is similar to that of a seat belt, designed to keep things secure and in place.
Cam Buckle Straps – Cam buckle straps are more of a medium weight. They typically have a 500lb working load and 1,500 lb break strength. They are good for medium-sized loads like ATVs, dirt bikes and toys of similar size. These straps are easy to use and you can quickly tighten and release them.
Ratchet Straps – Ratchet Straps use a ratcheting technique to secure substantial items. This strap is easy to use and can quickly be tightened. Ratchet straps generally have a 5,000 lb working load and 15,000 lb break strength. They are used to produce a snugger and more secure hold on items. These are the straps you want to use for heavy and dense loads, ideal for solid, heavy loads.
Types of Hook Ends you’ll want to use
S-Hook -The most standard type of hook end, S-hooks fit just about any hole to remain secure when a simple strap would not.
Snap Hook – Snap hooks are similar to an S-hook, but feature a latch that snaps closed around the tie-down point to provide a more secure grip than an S-hook.
J-Hook – J-hooks, also known as wire hooks, are typically used on one end of a ratchet strap to tightly grip onto an anchor point.
Flat Hook – Flat hooks feature a low-profile, versatile design to go over the rub rail of a trailer, and can use other tie-down straps as anchor points.
15 Uses for ratchet straps
Strap down cargo/luggage in top of a car or van. We have used them to secure luggage bags on our van.
Secure items and prevent them from sliding around in the back of a truck.
Use them in place of clamps when wood working.
Wrap them around something that my need a handle or two to lift. In our garage, we have big plastic bins that hold emergency supplies, with 2 straps around them. Keeps them closed and secure and easy to quickly move/carry.
They are studier and safer than bungees and ropes for transporting items. Bungees are good for absorbing shock, not as good as securing items.
Use to store things up high, like containers, bikes or a canoe in a garage. Look for ways on walls or ceiling to make more storage.
Use them to hoist up large or heavy items. (Check the weight load first)
Attempt slacklining. It is like walking on a tightrope, but a strap instead. You can determine how high and far you want to walk. They are portable, so when the desire and location show up, you are ready.
The are great to use if you are out of rope.
We once used a very heavy-duty strap to pull a car out of the mud.
Ratchet straps can make a great netting over the back of a pickup truck or over items on a vehicle luggage rack.
Quick repairs. I have seen a bumper to two being held up by straps until the vehicle can get into the shop.
Use them to secure bikes on a car bike rack. Or items on a hitch carrier.
Straps are perfect to use when moving. They can secure items in a moving truck with a S or J hook.
Straps can be used to move heavy furniture. Place the strap under the furniture and lift. We have used this method for our big China cabinet and piano.
Straps are a must have for your preparedness gear. Store some in your cars and garage. Remember to use the correct type of strap for the weight load and job you are doing. What could you use ratchet straps for?
We all know that water is the Number One consideration when it comes to survival. Three days without the wet stuff, and you’re pushing up daisies. Besides water, have you ever thought of the availability of wood as a survival must-have? Have you stocked up on firewood for survival?
Back when we lived in the Phoenix area, I realized one day how desperate that city of 1.6 million would be without any fuel sources during a longterm grid failure. There are virtually no trees in that city that provide the right kind of firewood, and those that do, would take months to dry out and season. No easy source of fuel to heat a home, to cook with, to use for purifying water — what a nightmare that would be, and all because of the lack of good firewood.
To survive, we need to stay warm when it’s cold, and even in hot weather, we still need a way to cook food on cloudy days when the solar cooker just won’t work. In areas where trees are sparse, people might have to start breaking apart furniture and pulling up floorboards within days of a major power outage.
Start with fuel-efficiency
Our family a very fuel-efficient rocket stove to cook when we’re camping. The Silverfire Survivor Stove is, in my opinion, the best on the market. It only takes a few twigs to cook an entire meal. A highly efficient rocket stove is one prep I highly recommend. We’ve used the Silverfire, StoveTec, and the EcoZoom. Of the 3, I still prefer the Silverfire (a little more expensive), but the other 2 are certainly adequate. Read this review of the Silverfire to learn more.
Using an open fire for cooking and heating is another option, whether in a fireplace or a contained, outdoor fire, but, again, think efficiency. What types of wood will produce the most heat with the least amount of waste? If you can get your hands on it, these woods have the highest heat value:
With these varieties, you use less wood, but get a higher level of heat output. Again, these varieties don’t grow everywhere, so you will need to do some research into the type of firewood in your area — which varieties are available and, of those, which will burn best with the highest level of efficiency.
The USDA Forest Products Laboratory produced this handy chart with more information about the fuel efficiency levels of different woods. You want the highest amount of heat per cord and one that doesn’t give off a lot of smoke.
How much to keep on hand? Plenty!
Again, back in Phoenix, I liked to have a supply of firewood, in spite of the fact that we didn’t even have a fireplace, and the grill out back was connected to our gas line! I just wanted to know there was another source of fuel should the power go out and all other fuel sources become scarce.
If you live in a similar area and circumstances, it might sound crazy to insist on having some firewood, but maybe it’s smarter than you think! Most people will never think about having a stash of firewood for survival.
Someday a cord of wood just might make the difference between your family’s survival and a daily struggle to stay warm and eat hot meals. How much wood provides the right amount of safety margin? There’s no one right answer, but I’d suggest starting with a half cord.
Chopped wood is measured, and purchased, by the cord, which is an official unit of measurement. The length, height, and width of the chopped wood is measured. A “cord” is 128 cubic feet. One cord is a heck of a lot of wood. Years ago, I lived in the far northern plateaus of Arizona, and wood burning stove provided all my heat. Less than half a cord of wood was plenty to see me through the winter. Of course, I was living alone in an 750 square foot house!
Look on Craigslist for firewood sources. Once you know the types of wood that are available and are the best woods for burning, then it’s just a matter of shopping around. Don’t order wood sight unseen, since it takes many months for it to season properly. Check out pieces of the firewood you are planning to buy. The pieces should have cracks on the end and the seasoned pieces should weigh less than fresh, green wood. When you hit 2 pieces of the firewood together, you should get a hollow sound. If the sound is more dull and solid, the wood isn’t seasoned enough.
The “right” firewood for survival
In order to burn well, wood must be dry and seasoned. Even if you have live trees on your property or in a nearby city park, I can guarantee that wood from those trees will be very difficult to burn, give off a lot of smoke, and not be an efficient fuel until it is seasoned. It takes several months for this to happen. This is why rural families spend so much of their spring and summer days chopping and stacking firewood for the winter.
Even if you don’t ordinarily have a need for firewood, start thinking about the fuel you will use if the lights ever go out long term. You may want to start buying small quantities of firewood, and even invest in a splitting wedge or specialized wood splitting axe or maul. A supply of firewood might be a smart, life-saving idea. Just be very aware of fire prevention, as explained in this article written by a former fire marshal.
As my wife will verify, I do a lot of things in the kitchen, but baking is not normally one of them. Well yesterday, I felt like baking some fresh bread so I decided to make some bannock. Learning how to make bannock has been on my list of things to learn for a while.
Bannock seems to have originated in Scotland, but it became very popular in the wilds of Canada and the American West. It is easy to make and does not even require a pan to cook it. Kids would enjoy learning how to make Bannock bread, as it can be cooked directly on the hot coals.
I cheated a bit and made mine in the kitchen on the stove. It is an easy way to have hot fresh bread in under thirty minutes. You’ll need the following ingredients.
2 cups of flour (white or wheat) I used one of each.
1 tablespoon of baking powder, I used one without aluminum in it.
1-2 teaspoons of sugar
2 pinches of salt
Enough water to mix into stiff dough.
The uncooked patty in the pan
Throw the ingredients into a bowl and mix; you want the dough stiff enough to stick together. The dough was formed into a large patty between 1 and 2 inches thick. I then threw it in a cast iron frying pan that I had heated some oil in. The dough cooked on one side until I could flip it like a pancake. The backside was then cooked until I could stick a fork in it and it came out clean. The bread was hot, fresh and delicious.
The bannock may have a few burned spots on the exterior by the time it is cooked, but it will be good on the interior. Now the same recipe can be used outdoors without a pan. Just lay your bread patty directly on the hot coals. When the bottom is done, flip it. When the bread is finished brush the ashes off and enjoy.
The finished bannock ready to come out of pan.
You can make variations of this bread by adding raisins or other dried fruits. Bannock bread cooks fast and requires less fuel than other forms. The pioneers knew how to cook Bannock bread and now you do, too! Enjoy!