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In France, there are two types of property tax, taxe foncière, which is paid by the property owner, and taxe d’habitation, paid by the resident as of January 1 of that year.

View from my front door

After seven years, I am moving out of my rental in Brittany. I still plan to visit the region every year, but maintaining a year-round house is too much.

View from my bedroom skylight

I consider myself an expert at moving, but there are a few things that are different from moving in the U.S. and moving in France. One has to do with the condition in which you must leave the home (more on that in an upcoming post).

Gulf of Morbihan oyster beds

Another difference is that you have to think to “cancel” your taxe d’habitation, or so I thought. I couldn’t remember when I moved out of my rental apartment in Paris in 2012 if I had notified anyone in the tax office of my departure. But I don’t think I had to then, because I was moving within Paris.

Gulf of Morbihan

After getting nowhere with this question by emailing with the Centre de finance public in Vannes (Morbihan), my local office, I decided to just show up in person.

Morbihan coastline (Saint–Gildas-de-Rhuys)

The woman who helped me was very nice and there was no wait. But that is where the positives about my visit end. I explained my situation, that I was moving out of a secondary residence July 5th and needed to stop my monthly automatic tax payments. Then our conversation went something like this:

Her: You don’t have to do anything.

Me: But how will the tax office know I moved?

Her: They will see you live somewhere else now.

Me: But I am not moving to a new second home. This is/was never my primary residence. Will the real estate agent notify the tax office? [Note: I knew the answer to this question was no, but I thought the question might help her understand my overarching question.]

Her: No, it’s automatic.

Me: But how will they know I will?

Her: They will. C’est comme ça.

Me: It’s like what?

Her: How do I explain this…. [look of frustration with me]… There are people in each town. They know where people live.

Me: But how? They will come to my house and see if I’m home?

Her: They just know.

Me: But I have only been using the house occasionally. So how will they know this time when I leave, I’ve actually moved out? Will the owner of the house notify them? [Note: again, I know the owner will do no such thing, but…]

Her: No, it’s automatic.

Me: But I have automatic monthly payments set up.

Her: Then you can just end them.

Me: Right now? But don’t I owe for all of 2019? I am allowed to just end the payments without proof of moving out?

Her: Here, call this number [she hands me a very small piece of paper with a 1-800 number]. They can tell you.

Me: [Realizing we are getting nowhere] OK, thank you.

Morbihan coastline (Quiberon)

So to recap: I got absolutely nowhere. I will try calling the number she gave me on Monday.

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Paris Weekender by Paris Weekender - 3w ago

Having finished all the mainland segments of Brittany’s coastal trail (the GR34) and many of the islands, I’m now at 1,461 miles logged since November 2014. Here are all my GR34 photos to date.

Bay of Quiberon

I plan to finish the last few remaining pieces of this sentier cotier, also known as the sentier des douaniers (coast guard or customs officers’ path), in Summer 2020. I’m only missing the islands of Bréhat (Côtes d’Armor); Ouessant, Sein and Molène (Finistère); and Belle-Île-en-Mer (Morbihan). Belle-Île is a 100km circuit but the other islands will be day hikes.

Quiberon

Then I’ll have to find a new project!

Quiberon

Included in this post are some photos from my most recent hikes (the full Quiberon Peninsula, and finishing the GR349 liaison between the Presqu’île de Rhuys and La Roche-Bernard, the Petite Cité de Caractère on the border of the Morbihan and Loire-Atlantique.

La Roche-Bernard

Again, here are all my GR34 photos to date.

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Paris Weekender by Paris Weekender - 1M ago

At the end of May, I was in Brittany for the biennial week-long festival, the Semaine du Golfe. This “Week of the Gulf” is a celebration of the boating history of the Gulf of Morbihan. There is no racing, but numerous other boat-related festivities, including a kick-off and final boat parade… and lots of music, food and drink!

Kick-off boat parade, near Port Navalo

I’ve uploaded a few videos from some of my favorite moments of the festival. This first video is of the kick-off parade, just before sunset. My friends and I were lucky enough to be in the parade, to witness it from the water!

Semaine du Golfe 2019, kick-off parade - Vimeo

This next video is from Larmor-Baden, at the passageway (in low tide only) to Île Berder. This is where the flotilla of smaller boats showed their stuff on the Thursday afternoon:

Semaine du Golfe 2019, small boats parade - Vimeo

Lastly, I watched the final boat parade from the rocks on Île-aux-Moines, as I did two years before. You can see my post about the Semaine du Golfe 2017 here.

Semaine du Golfe 2019, final parade - Vimeo

Rumor has it they are only going to hold the festival every four years from now on, due to environmental concerns with so many people descending upon the region all at once. If not 2021, mark your calendars now for May 2023!

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Paris Weekender by Paris Weekender - 2M ago

This fascinating and dynamic bar chart by John Burn-Murdoch of the Financial Times (via Jane Friedman‘s website) shows the relative populations of the world’s 10 largest cities from 1500 to 2018.

Follow Paris! It only dropped off in many of our lifetimes!

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Paris Weekender by Paris Weekender - 2M ago

Thanks to the wonderful HIPParis blog for sharing that Eataly Paris is now open!

Full disclosure: this photo is actually from BigLove of the Big Mamma group

Now, three floors and 4,000 m2 of Italian gastronomy is just a 7-minute, 550-meter walk from my apartment. I think that’s doable even after pizza and gelato.

Here is the official website for:
Eataly Paris Marais
37 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie
75004 Paris

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Paris Weekender by Paris Weekender - 3M ago

I’ve compiled a few of my favorite photos of Notre Dame that I’ve taken over the years:

There are several ways you can donate to help with the rebuilding. Here is one reliable charity, the Friends of Notre-Dame de Paris, a 501c3 public charity (all gifts are tax deductible in the United States).

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Lost in Frenchlation has several more events this month and they have kindly offered **two free tickets to the first of Paris Weekender’s readers to email me at parisweekender@gmail.com** and request them. Please note which of the shows below you’d like to attend.

Trailer April - Vimeo

***

Lost in Frenchlation organizes screenings of French films with English subtitles in Paris with drinks before the film for the international community to meet!

– Grâce à Dieu
☞ Thursday 11 April at  Luminor Hôtel de Ville/Marais. Drinks from 7pm, screening at 8pm. €9.50 Full Price, €7.50 for students and other concessions.https://www.facebook.com/events/334859510490915/

– C’est Ça L’Amour☞ Thursday 18 April at Luminor Hôtel de Ville/Marais. Drinks from 7pm, screening at 8pm. €9.50 Full Price, €7.50 for students and other concessions.https://www.facebook.com/events/2439611786072540/

☆LOST IN FRENCHLATION CLASSICS #2
– Itinéraire d’un Enfant Gâté☞ Sunday 21 April at Club de L’Étoile/Champs-Élysées. Drinks from 6pm, screening at 7pm. €10 Full Price, €8 for students and other concessions. http://lostinfrenchlation.com/event/itineraire-dun-enfant-gate

☆COMEDY NIGHT☆
– Chamboultout
☞ Friday 26 April at Luminor Hôtel de Ville/Marais. Drinks from 7pm, stand-up comedy show at 8pm, screening at 8:30pm. €14.50 Full Price, €12.50 for students and other concessions.http://lostinfrenchlation.com/event/comedy-night-chamboultout

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Only through April 17th, THATMuse (of THATLou Louvre treasure hunt fame) brings you a pop-up treasure hunt in the Marais! What a great way to get to know this historic neighborhood in a fun and creative way. It’s for kids and adults alike. Go check it out!!

THATMuse- THATNat Launch!! - YouTube

Above is a short video on THATMuse’s new treasure hunt at the Natural History Museum in London. And be sure to check out my interviews with Daisy de Plume, founder of THATMuse.

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Paris Weekender by Paris Weekender - 5M ago
Old Man of Storr, Skye

I have posted our full Highlands itinerary under Longer Trip Itineraries.

Hiking near Glencoe

I’m not sure there’s anything I would have done differently in terms of our itinerary except perhaps hoof it all the way to Tarbert on the first night to have more time hiking on the Kintyre Way.

Hiking near Glencoe

Of course we didn’t visit any of the cities on this trip. We decided we preferred to take advantage of having the car and spend more time in places you can only see with a car.

Christchurch, Skye

We can always get back to Edinburgh or Glasgow as short trips from elsewhere in Europe. But you may want to add a couple days in each if you have the time….

Eilean Donan Castle

Lastly, you’ll notice we didn’t visit any distilleries. But if you’re a scotch whiskey aficionado, you should of course schedule in some visits!

Kinloch Lodge, Skye

You can see all my Scotland photos here. See my other Scotland posts here

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The final part of our Scotland trip was the long but scenic drive from the Torridon to Loch Lomond, via the Cairngorms.

Loch An Eilein

To break up the long drive on this last full day, we stopped for an hour or so to walk around Loch An Eilein in the Cairngorms National Park. While not too different from familiar New England landscapes, Loch An Eilein is a beautiful spot.

Homemade ice cream at the Oak Tree Inn

We stayed at the lovely Oak Tree Inn in Balmaha, on Loch Lomond, and had drinks and dinner at the Oak Tree Inn’s pub. They have a large and inviting terrace. We then followed the route of the West Highland Way past the Balmaha Pier and along Loch Lomond for a little while. I found this side of the lake much prettier than the west side. Albeit, we saw the west side on the one overcast day, the first day of our trip, when we were jet lagged.

Balmaha Pier, Loch Lomond

The last morning, I woke up early and hiked up Conic Hill before breakfast—about an hour and a half round trip. Conic Hill is along the West Highland Way and offers a spectacular view down at Loch Lomond.

View from Conic Hill

On the way back to the airport, we found another Marks & Spencer (mini) food hall in Linlithgow and picnicked just outside the lovely Linlithgow Palace. It made for a nice last stop as it’s only 20 minutes from the Edinburgh airport.

Linlithgow Palace

You can see all my Scotland photos here. See my other Scotland posts here

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