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Today I wanted to show you a project 
Fisher of Men

This project can be found in 
Lynne Andrews 
new book

The whale plaque measures 22 1/2" long X 7 1/2" wide

My Palette

Antique Gold, Antique Green, Antique White, Blue Mist, Burnt Umber, Buttermilk, Cool White, deep Midnight Blue, French Grey Blue, Grey Storm, Lamp Black, Plantation Pine, Rockwood Red, Slate Grey, Spiced Pumpkin, Yellow Ochre


I began by lightly sanding the whale.
Next I applied 
I began by base coating with the first coat of Lamp Black. Let dry.
I sanded again and then base coated with a second coat of Lamp Black.

Next I transferred the OVAL shape only on to the whale.

I used Lynne Andrews new Floaters to paint this project.
I really loved painting with them!

I mop between washes with a Jack Richeson Sash Brush ( Pictured above)

I used a #14 floater to wash the OVAL with Antique White.
Next I transferred the design to the oval.

I began at the top and used a #8 floater to wash in the sky with Deep Midnight Blue.
I used the sash brush to blend and soften between washes. 

I then dried and repeated wash.
I washed the ocean in French Grey Blue.
The grassy areas are washed in Plantation Pine with a #4 floater.
When dry I did a wash of Antique Green on the top of the grass.
Always use mop to soften and blend.

I dry brushed the clouds in with a #6 stippler in Cool White.
When dry I did a wash of Cool White over the clouds. I mopped and blended well.
I then started to work on the buildings.

The buildings are named left to right
Fresh Fish, Dining and Tavern.

The chimney rocks are a mix of Black, Cool White, Burnt Umber and Slate Grey.

The ship is washed in Burnt Umber.
I mopped to blend and soften wash.

I added additional washes of Burnt Umber to the ship to get desired depth of color.
The floats on top of ship are Lamp Black. I used Cool White to highlight.

Next I painted the sails on the ship.
The sails were first washed with Buttermilk then mopped.
Dry completely.

Once the sails were dry I did a wash of Cool White.
I mopped to soften and blend.
I shaded the folds on the sails with Burnt Umber.
I floated around the masts with a combination of Burnt Umber and Lamp Black.

I painted in the mast posts with Lamp Black.

Close up view.

I transferred the posts behind the buildings lightly.

I used a Rotring Tech Pen 0.1 for all the line work.

Close up showing posts behind buildings added.

I added  shading and highlighting to all the buildings.
I  added the shingles to the house and roof with the Rotring Pen.

I am now painting the signs on each of the buildings.

I sprayed Krylon Workable Fixative on my piece so that the pen would not smear.

I transferred the remaining outside design to the surface using white transfer paper.
All elements on the black background with the exception of the banner got a Buttermilk wash.
The banner was washed with Antique White. I used the mop to soften and blend.

I am working on the pelican.

Continuing to work on the back ground design.

I have added the rope, anchor and sea gull.

Close up of left side.

I used a ruler and the Roetring Pen to add the rigging to the posts behind buildings.

I transferred the lettering to the banner.

Working on the lettering.

I have now added the rigging on the ship.

I again sprayed any areas where I used the pen with Krylon Fixative to prevent smudges.

I have painted the pelican on the right side and added the lettering.

Almost done!

Close up view of right side.

Close up view of left side.

I applied several coats of DecoArt Matte Sealer to my piece when completed.

I attached (2) 1/2" screw eyes to the top of the piece and added a 16" piece of roping to hang.

Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt
 provided me with the paints to complete this project as part of their 
Helping Artist and Blogger Outreach Programs

Thank you DecoArt!

" And Jesus walking by the sea of Galilee saw two brothers, Simon called Peter and his brother Andrew. They were casting a net for they were fishermen. "Come follow me and I will make you fishers of me."  Mathew 4: 18-20

I hope you have enjoyed watching me..
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Today I wanted to show you a project 
Warm and Wooly Mitten Box
Design by Cynthia Erekson

We have not had much snow this winter on Cape Cod
we did get a few inches of the "white stuff" last night. 
So I guess I completed this project just in time to store my mittens and keep them handy.

This design can be found in the February 2011 Issue of Paint Works

This box measures about 15 1/2" X 6 1/2" X 7"

Lets step inside my STUDIO and get started

My Palette

Antique Maroon, Antique Teal, Antique White, Autumn Red, Black Green, Brandy Wine, Buttermilk, Calico Red, Colonial Green, Dark Chocolate, Honey Brown, Lamp Black, Light Buttermilk, Milk Chocolate, Warm White
Lets Paint!

I began by applying Multi Purpose Sealer to all outside surfaces of the box.

I used a large American Decor Brush to apply sealer.
I let the sealer dry then lightly sanded my surface. 
Wipe any dust.

I base coated the outside of the box with 2 coats of Autumn Red.
I base coated the bottom of the box with Lamp Black.
The knob is first base coated with Antique Teal and then Lamp Black.
On the top of the box I measured and drew a line 1 1/2" from all edges to create a wide border.

I randomly dry brushed Calico Red onto the top border and sides of the box.
This brighter color adds more depth to the wood graining that we will be doing.

I painted a coat of Antique Teal over the Autumn Red 
center rectangle on the box cover and lid sides.

Wood Graining Glaze
Mix a glaze with a quarter size puddle of Black Green, 3 drops of Lamp Black, 6 quarter size puddles of Glaze Medium, 1 drop of Black Green and 3 good squirts of Extender.

Press the glaze on with the broad flat side of a sponge brush.

The glaze should just cover the base coat and look slightly bubbly.
I worked quickly with my palette knife held in a vertical position
I used a press and lift motion repeatedly in the glaze all along sides of box lid. 

Lid Center Rectangle
I used the sponge brush to press glaze onto the center rectangle of the lid.
I then pulled my graining tool quickly thru the glaze.
I wiped my tool on a paper towel and once again pulled the tool thru the glaze. 

Lid Outer Border
I pressed the glaze onto the entire outer border.
I again used my palette knife in a press and lift motion all along the outside border.
I moved quickly around the lid and angled the knife at the corners.

Let dry completely before proceeding!

Close up of the cover grain work.

The sides of the box are wood grained as well in much the same manner.

I measured and taped off a 1/2" border around the top of the box.
I used a small stencil brush to "dry brush" on the boarder with Lamp Black.

I measured and applied a 1/2" wide Lamp Black border 
around the lid top as well as the top and bottom edges of the box.

Side view.

I also measured and taped off the 1/8" border on lid rectangle. 
I again used a small stencil brush to dry brush this border with Honey Brown.

I painted the inside of the box Lamp Black.

I used a small stencil brush  to dry brush Lamp Black along the edges of the box lid.

I used an awl to punch random sections of the box creating groupings of wormholes.

I also used a rasp to remove some paint from the corners and edges of the box to distress them.

In order to mellow the color of the box some 
I mixed Honey Brown with some Staining Antiquing Medium.

I brushed the "antique mixture" on to the box to tone the color down.

I transferred the oval design to the box and base coated it with Honey Brown.
Once that area had dried I used a horizontal motion and lightly sanded the area.

Next I painted the sheep.

I used a small detail brush to line the branches, leaves and other tiny details.

I added the lettering 
 the date
to the side of the box lid.

"These sweet and peaceful sheep were inspired by a piece of Early American chalk ware. These 18th and 19th century figurines were molded from plaster of Paris and painted in a primitive style. It is thought that the designs were taken from decorative Staffordshire figures and other forms of pottery  popular at the time. " 
~ Cynthia Erekson

I covered the oval area and lightly spattered the box with Lamp Black

Pour a quarter size puddle of paint on your palette. 
Dip your stencil brush in H20 and dab on paper towel. 
Swirl your brush in the paint and use a palette knife to flick the bristles, pulling them toward you with your palette knife.

I used a lettering brush to do the checks around the oval center in Black Green.
For easy spacing, place one check at each end, one at top center and one at bottom center.
Place another check halfway between each of these checks. Continue to divide the available space in each section in 1/2 . The checks fit perfectly!

I applied several coats of Dura Clear Varnish to complete my project.

Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt
provided me with the paints
products to complete this project as part of their 

Helping Artist
Blogger Outreach Programs

Thank you DecoArt!

I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint my
Warm and Wooly Mitten Box

Happy Painting!


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Over the holidays I was so busy painting that I got really behind with my BLOGGING!
I have lots of projects to show you!

I am going to show you a project 
A Truckload of JOY

Design by
Laure Paillex

My Palette

Snow White, Zinc, Watermelon Slice, Santa Red, Forest Green, Foliage Green, Tuscan Red, Lamp Black

Serene, Relic, Everlasting White

I decided to SUPER Size this design.

I sized it to 2' x 3'.


I began by mixing DecoArt Multi Purpose Sealer (1):(1) 
Serene Chalky Finish Paint

I base coated my surface with this mix using a

I let that dry well.
I then buffed lightly with fine sand paper to smoothen any raised grain.
I wipe away any dust.
I then applied a top coat of Serene ( no sealer added).
Let dry.

I then used a "chip brush" to streak Everlasting White over my surface.
To do this I began along one side edge of the board and streaked all the way across. 
I then rotated the board and streaked from the opposite side.
When dry I transferred the pattern to the surface.

The first layers of color (underpainting) 
are placed 
to define the basic shapes and spaces of the composition.
They also provide an even reflective background for the more transparent colors which follow.

 Next I base coated the letters
  J-O-Y with Zinc.
In this step the letters look streaky but the color evens out in the next step.

In the next step I painted the individual sections of the truck with brush mixes of Watermelon Slice + White.  

I painted the lighter pink hues on the door, and fender. 

The hood, bed, cab roof are darker pink.

When completing the letters the color value changed from Zinc (dark gray) at the top to a lighter gray mixture of Zinc + White (2): (1) at the bottom of each letter. 
I then used a "chip brush" to drag streaks of White over the completed letters.

Next I filled in the tree shape with thinned White.
I put a piece of painters tape along the edge of the truck bed for this step.

I used an angled stiff brush to give shape to the tree branches.

I used a liner brush with a thinned mix of Santa Red + a bit of Black ( dark red hue) to outline the doors, window, and the truck bed. 
I then used a round brush to apply the first layer of Santa Red to the truck. 
I kept my paint thinned. 
You can do this with H20 or use some Drying Time Extender.
Be sure to let dry between coats!

I added additional shading on the edges of the truck bed,  before shading the fenders and front bumper. 
I again used a mix of Santa Red + Black.
The tree and wreath were painted using a mix of Forest Green and Foliage Green.
Once the tree was dry I  loaded the long bristles of an angle brush with White to tap on the snow.

I brushed a thin wash of White onto the door window, windshield, rear window and headlamp.
I placed a heavy line of Zinc/Black along the running board.
I dry brushed on the White highlights.

Working on wheel detail.

I spattered flecks of snow using White all over my piece.
I then added heavy accents of accumulated snow and ice to the truck.

Close up of truck.

I decided to personalize my truck.
My father- in- law was a plumber by trade. He drove a RED pick up truck.
I put his business logo on the door of the truck.
I sealed my piece with

I displayed the piece over the mantle.

I decide to take my "Red Truck" theme a bit farther after finding this truck surface while at NET.

Painted truck in progress!

I gathered some wreath making supplies.

I attached the truck to a fresh wreath for my porch.

Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt 
provided the paints to complete this project as part of their 
Helping Artist and Blogger Outreach Programs

Thank you DecoArt!

I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint
A Truckload of JOY

Happy Painting!


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When I was shopping at
this fall
 I was immediately fascinated by some new ornament patterns 
that my good friend 
Jane Allen 
had in her booth.
Jane explained to me 
that she and her good friend Shara Reiner got together to play
before you knew it they were sculpting Shara's whimsical characters using QuickWood. 
With some playing and brainstorming "SharaJane" was born.
SharaJane is a line of designs that is a little bit Shara and a little bit Jane.
I just KNEW I had to try making some of these ornaments!

The problem was deciding which ones I wanted to try!
I wanted them ALL!

Lets step inside my STUDIO and see what I chose!

Let's get started!

My Palette

Country Red, Deep Burgundy, Foliage Green, Hauser Medium Green, Lamp Black Plantation Pine, Tangelo Orange, Warm White, Zinc, Blue harbor, Bright Salmon, Evergreen, Indian Turquoise, Raw Sienna, Snow White, Soft Black Spiced Pumpkin.

I decided on the Holly Snow Lady as my first project.
I did it Shara's Way & Jane's Way!
You will need some 100mm plastic disk ornaments.
These measure about 4" wide.

I began by first removing the top of the ornaments.
I then poured Snow White paint into the ornament.
I swirled the paint around until the inside of the ornament was covered.
I then tipped the ornaments over to let the excess paint flow out.
I used cups to hold each ornament.

I let my ornaments dry this way overnight.

It's now time to play with some QuickWood!
Some basics to remember when working with QuickWood
  1. QuickWood is a 2 part resin. When mixed together you have about 20 minutes of open time before it begins to cure. It will full cure in 24 hours.
  2. Only cut off as much as you need at a time.
  3. Make sure it is thoroughly mixed together ( no swirls of color) or it will not cure.
  4. Do not wear jewelry , especially rings when working with QW.
  5. Apply Silicone Glove before starting and as needed when working with QW. It helps keep it from sticking to your hands!
  6. Use DecoArt Extender to blend QW being careful not to use too much or it will make your QW gummy.

To help with the sculpting process the pattern includes a link to 7 brief videos.
You can watch a video , do the step and then move on to the next step.
This was very useful if you are new to sculpting with QW!

I began with sculpting my Holly Snow Lady Shara's Way first.

There is a little learning curve with playing with QW.....but it is fun and relaxing!

I followed Jane Allen's quick tutorials for each step which makes this project easy peasy!


I then made some Holly Snow Ladies Jane'sWay!

It was fun seeing my Holly Snow Ladies come to life with paint!

Aren't they adorable? I know you want to try some!

The feeling you're being watched!

After I had all my ornaments painted I added some BLING.

You can do this by brushing some
on the leaves

Then sprinkle on some



If you do not want to cover the entire background of your ornament 
with GLITTER you can give your ornament a light spray of  

Holly Snow Lady
Janes Way

Holly Snow Lady
Shara's Way

Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt 
provided me with the products to complete this project as part of their
Helping Artist and Blogger Outreach programs.

Thank you DecoArt!

My Elves
 Hinkley and Elfin 
are busy in the STUDIO now 
wrapping all my Snow Ladies!
The MAGIC of Christmas is happening!

Remember ......there is room for everyone on the NICE list!

I hope you have enjoyed watching me make my
Holly Snow Ladies!

Happy Painting!


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I found this surface for $5.00 at a recent yard sale.
It measures 24" tall x 19" wide.
I had the perfect design that I wanted to paint on it.

The design
 is by my good friend 
Amy Mogish
and is 

Lets step inside my STUDIO !

My Palette

Antique Gold, Burnt Orange, Burnt Umber, Cocoa, Country Red, Delane's Dark Flesh, Fiery Red, Flesh Tone, Graphite, Honey Brown, Lamp Black, Light Buttermilk, Milk Chocolate, Neutral Grey, sapphire, Slate, Grey, Soft Black, Tangelo Orange, Tangerine, Titanium White

Let's Paint!

I prepared my surface using a sponge brush to apply 2 coats of Soft Black.

I used a "press and lift " motion with the sponge brush to coat the entire surface.
This will give your surface a slight texture.
Once you have applied 2 coats of paint you can go back with your sponge brush and 
"refine" any areas that may have too much texture.
This would include such areas as the face or any other area with fine details.

Amy Mogish 
originally painted this design on a
Brides Oval Carry All Bentwood Box.
This design lends itself to so many surfaces the possibilities are endless!
You could easily paint each of The Pilgrims as separate portraits......which I had been thinking about!
(Until this surface came along!)

I used a
  Scharff Stain- It Brush 
to dry brush
Burnt Umber 
over the entire surface.

I also like to use the Scharff Moon Brushes for dry brushing as well.
It just depends on the area I am covering which brush I choose.

I enlarged the design to fit my surface.
The pattern is transferred to the surface using a white graphite paper.

I began with the initial base coat using Light Buttermilk.

Because my surface was so large I had to fill in some area's with "extra's.
This is your chance to make your piece "unique" and add some of your own touches!
I paint and shade mostly using Ultra Round Brushes.

Their pointed tip make them perfect for getting in the smallest of spots.
I prefer to apply my color values using a series of washes until I reach the desired depth of color.

I mop between each wash then use my blow dryer to be sure it is dry before adding the next wash.
If you try to add another layer of color when your paint is still wet you are going to lift the paint!

I drew in my own large pumpkin that The Pilgrim is holding.
I base coated the pumpkin using Burnt Orange.
After I had the base coating and shading on the pumpkin done I dry brushed the highlights on.

To fill in the area below the large pumpkin I drew in 2 smaller pumpkins and painted them.
I just used some of the paints that I had on my palette to paint them.
 I plan to hang this piece in my dining room where 
 I have a couple of primitive portraits that I have painted. 

I decided to change the eyes of The Pilgrims to give them a little more realistic look yet I still wanted to maintain the over all whimsical look of Amy's design.

I began with the woman Pilgrim.
I began by first shading 
aside the nose , under eyes, above lip, center of nose, bottom of chin and center of neck using Delane's Dark Flesh.

I then created  eye sockets using Delane's Dark Flesh
I base coated the eyes with Light Buttermilk.
I painted the iris with Honey Brown.
The pupil is Lamp Black.
I lined the top of the eye with Honey Brown.
I added a tiny highlight to the eye with Light Buttermilk.
I added the eyebrows with a tiny liner brush.

I have now added the "homespun lines to the female Pilgrims collar with Burnt Orange.

I added blush to her cheeks with a "float of Burnt Orange".
I deepened the shading with a touch of Country Red.

I first base coated her hair with Soft Black.
I then added the highlights to her hair with Honey Brown.
I have also added the stitching details to the collar and hat with Soft Black

I have added the initial base coats to the male Pilgrim and also the pie.
After base coating the pie and the additional pumpkins I knew that I would need to add some sort of filler in the area below them.

I dry brushed shading and highlights to define the female Pilgrims arms, under the collar and around the pie.

The pie dish was initially base coated with Sapphire.
I used a Scharff Texture -It brush to highlight the center of the pie plate with Light Buttermilk.
I then added a wash of Sapphire over the pie dish. I used Soft Black to shade both the pie crust and the dish. I added highlights to the crust with Light Buttermilk. I then added a wash over the crust with Honey Brown. I added some crumbs to the top of the pie with Light Buttermilk.

At this point I was wishing I had a fresh baked apple pie in my oven cooking so I could stop for a coffee break!

So now it is time to give the male Pilgrim a face!

But first I decided to add some bittersweet vines along the bottom of the design to fill in that area.

I painted the male Pilgrim's eyes and nose pretty much the same way as the females.
His beard and hair are undercoated with Lamp Black.
I then added the hair, mustache and beard over the Lamp Black using a liner brush and Graphite.

I then started adding some hairs using Neutral Grey and finally some using Slate Grey.

I painted his hair in the same manner.

I highlighted the hat and cape with some Neutral Grey then further highlighted it with Slate Grey.
I added the buckle on his hat with Bright Brass, and shaded it with Soft Black.

An Amy Mogish design would not be complete unless you added some bakers twine.

AND now it's thyme to paint a duck!

Close up of The Pilgrims and The Duck!

I changed the location of the sheep in the design and of course added more bakers twine and a crow.

It looks like we now need to paint a chicken!

This is such a fun design!

Close up view of pumpkins and bittersweet.

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 I wanted to show you my latest project.

This project is 
Boston Anglers Box
Cynthia Erekson

I used a reproduction 
"Vintage Shoeshine Box"
to paint this project on.

Lets step inside my STUDIO and get started!

My palette

DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Blue Haze Light, Camel, Graphite, Lamp Black, Bleached Sand, Ice Blue, Raw Sienna

I began by lightly sanding my surface and then removing any dust.

Often times on a project such as this
 I combine
with my
base coat.
I poured Graphite plus a small amount to Lamp Black
onto my palette and mixed well 
with a
  palette knife.
I used this mixture to base coat the inside and underside 
of the box with a small

I base coated all outer surfaces 
with a heavily textured coat 
Blue Haze Light.

I use the broad flat side of a 2" sponge brush heavily loaded with paint.
I then "press and lift" the paint on to my surface.
I then go back over the surface pressing the brush
to reduce the texture and refine the surface a bit.
This is important especially in the areas that you will be painting your design.
It will make detail painting easier!

The box sides can be left coarser.
Let surface dry.
Next I dampened a silk sponge.
I then squeeze it on a paper towel to remove excess water.

I then dipped my sponge in Ice Blue.
I lightly pounced the sponge over all outer surfaces for subtle mottling.
 I let the box dry well.

I measured in 1" from all sides on both sections of the top.
I painted the 1" borders with Graphite leaving some background color showing through.
Next, I loaded a small stencil brush with Graphite.
I scrubbed the brush on a paper towel to remove most of the paint.
I then lightly  scrubbed the brush on the outer edges and hinges on top of the lid sections.
I added some soft darker areas to the lower box shading at the cornersedges and bottom of legs. 
I let the box dry completely then lightly spattered it with thinned Graphite.

I began by transferring the ground and water lines to the surface.
I then started to paint the "angler" and add other details.

Adding foliage to tree and the weeds.

Close up view.

I used
Anchors Aweigh 
to enhance the sides of my box.

This is a re-usable stick on stencil!

Close up of stenciled side of box.

I base coated the 2 trout with Lamp Black plus Graphite.
I used thinned paint and left some raw wood showing.
I heavily sanded edges and across body to wear off streaks of paint.

I attached the 
Fish Dealer Label 
to the box 
I applied the medium to the back of the label .
I then pressed it in place.
I let the label dry completely.

Once the label had dried
 I applied another 2 coats of
to the top of label.

Let dry completely between coats.
I then dabbed a wash of Raw Sienna, here and there on label to age it.

I brushed on several coats 

Top of box

I like to finish the inside of my boxes as well.
I had this wonderful 
"fish" scrap book paper 
in my stash.

I measured all the insides of my box.

I cut all the pieces to fit using a paper cutter.

I then used 
in the same manner as above
 to adhere the paper to the insides of the box.

Inside the box!

I painted the inside of the top cover
DecoArt Chalk Board Paint

I used
Generals Charcoal White Pencil 
to do the lettering and design.

I use a 
point blend brush 
dipped in a small amount of water 
to clean up any smudges left by the chalk pencil.

***** You MUST spray any chalk work with Fixative Spray before varnishing*****

This step will prevent any chalk work from smudges once you varnish.

Inside of box.

Something fishy going on here!

I glued the trout to the sides of box.

Side of box.

Another side view of box.

Rosemary Reynolds
provided me with the paints to complete this project
as part of 
Helping Artist
Blogger Outreach Programs.

Thank you DecoArt!

I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint this
Boston Anglers Box

Happy Painting!

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Can you believe that it will be 4th of July this weekend?

I wanted to paint something Red, White & Blue.

Today I am going to show you a project 
Sailor Boy Banner

Cynthia Erekson

Lets step inside the STUDIO and get started!

My Palette 

Deep Midnight Blue, Uniform Blue, Heritage Brick. Antique Maroon, Khaki Tan, Warm Beige, Tomato Red, Antique White, Buttermilk, Light Buttermilk, Bleached Sand, Antique Gold, Blue Harbor, Dusty Rose, Terra Coral, Lamp Black, Milk Chocolate, Burnt Umber

I began by first lightly sanding my piece then removing the dust. 
I then used a 2" sponge brush to apply a textured coat of Deep Midnight Blue

I then transferred the main elements of the design to the surface.

I base coated the hat with Antique White.

I used my 
Moon Brushes 
to dry brush both the 
shaded areas.
I highlighted heavily to separate
 the brim from the crown, 
along the face and back edge 
Khaki Tan
I used Bleach Sand to dry brush the highlights in.

I also like to use Ultra Rounds  for shading and highlighting.

You can achieve the depth of color you want by applying several washes .

Let each wash dry completely before apply the next so you won't lift the paint!
I keep a small dryer on my table to quicken drying times.

Working on the face and hair.

I have painted the necktie with Heritage Brick. 
I shaded with Antique Maroon and highlighted with Tomato Red.
I am now working on the collar.

I have painted the cuffs, shirt and added the stripes and star to collar.

Finishing details!

I used
Varnish to finish my piece.

The "Kit" to this project came with a burlap flag banner.
However I decided to make a few changes to the project to personalize it.

I began by first cutting a strip of fabric from some heavy muslin.

I then soaked the fabric my 
"grunge mix"
to age it.

*** You can find my grunge mix recipe at the top of the page under the RECIPE tab.***


I usually soak several pieces of fabric when I do this so I have it on hand for other projects.

I then dry my "grungy fabric" on a cookie sheet in a 200 degree oven.
Watch carefully!

I printed out the words OLD GLORY on my computer using 
Avery Fabric Transfer Paper.
Follow directions on the package for ironing on your fabric.

Close up of my grungy banner!

I decided to attach the burlap flag banner
 to an old flag pole that I had
 instead of the dowel that it came on.
Are you ready to see it?

I attached everything to a grapevine wreath.

Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt 
provided me with the paints to complete this project 
as part of their 
Helping Artist and Blogger Outreach Programs.

Thank you DecoArt!

I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint
Sailor Boy Banner!

Happy Painting!


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 I wanted to show you a project that I just completed 
Catch Of The Day
Cynthia Erekson

surface is a 30 1/2" tall
 "Dummy Board"

"Dummy Boards" 
were first brought to this country in Colonial Times.
 Cut from flat boards, 
these whimsical figures were painted to resemble men, women or children. 
They were free standing
 were often placed near a fire place with their backs
 to the wall to serve 
as a presence in an empty room.

My Palette

Deep Midnight Blue, Dove Grey, Neutral Grey, Slate Grey, Graphite, Heritage Brick, Dusty Rose, Burnt Sienna, Victorian Blue, Antique Maroon, Warm White, Lamp Black, True Ochre, Milk Chocolate

Let's Paint

I began by first sanding my surface. 
I then wiped the dust.

Next I sealed my wood with 

I let the wood dry.

I applied 2 base coats of  Deep Midnight Blue.
Dry well between each coat.
I then transferred the main design lines to the board.

I base coated the hat, cuffs and pants with Dove Grey.
I shaded these areas with a mix
Neutral Grey and Slate Grey.

The hat brim, and boots are base coated in Graphite.
The entire 
face and beard area 
is undercoated 
Neutral Grey.

I added several light coats of 
Dusty Rose
to the 
face area.

I created the 
nose and eye sockets 
by shading these areas 
with a mix
Dusty Rose plus Burnt Sienna.

I usually use 
Ultra Rounds
 for painting.
They hold a lot of water 
their pointed tip make it easier to get into smaller areas.

I always use separate brushes for base coating and floating.
This insures that you have a nice chisel edge on the brushes you use to float.
When floating I like to apply several washes of color to achieve my desired value.

Not only are good brushes important to achieve a good float 
so is water!
I always have 2 containers of water on my table when I paint.
One container is for rinsing my brushes
the small glass dish contains CLEAN WATER
 to dip my brush in before loading it with paint to float.
You will never get a good float if you are using muddy water from your brush basin.

I have painted the Captains eyes.

I am now working on the jacket.

I used both Moon Brushes and Stain-It Brushes to do the jacket.
The jacket is heavily dry brushed using Victorian Blue to highlight it.
The Deep Midnight Blue I used to base coat the surface now becomes the shading.

I am now working on the beard.

I base coated lobster with Heritage Brick and a small touch of Dusty Rose.

on lobster was done 
Antique Maroon 
to define the 
body sections

I have painted the wood flag pin.

Close up of face 

Line work details are added.

I spattered my project to add texture.

To spatter I put a nickel size puddle of paint on my palette. 
I then dip a large stencil brush in my water.
 I blot the brush on a paper towel. 
I then circle the brush in my puddle of paint.
I use my palette knife to repeatedly flick the bristles of the brush, 
pulling towards me using pressure with the palette knife. 
I move across my area as I work. 
Let dry!

I applied several coats of 
to my completed project

Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt 
provided me with the paints to complete this project as part of their
Helping Artist
Blogger Outreach Programs

Thank you DecoArt!

I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint
Catch of the Day!

Happy Painting!


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 I wanted to show you a project 
Tranquil Times
Portside Clock

Rebecca Trimble

Lets step inside the STUDIO!

My Palette

Antique Green, Antique White, Asphaltum, Avocado, Black Green, Black Plum, Blue Chiffon, Burnt Sienna, Cadmium Yellow, Camel, Cocoa, Driftwood, French Vanilla, Gingerbread, Hauser Medium Green, Light Buttermilk. Neutral Grey, Plantation Pine, Raw Sienna, Rookwood Red, Snow ( Titanium) White, Soft Black, Soft Sage, Williamsburg Blue.

The surface I used is a thick MDF.
The surface is bevel cut so it is actually 2 pieces.
I had my good friend
  Sheila Landry 
specially cut the surface for this clock.

You can purchase the surface

The pattern 
for this project can be found
in the
August 2010
 Issue of Quick and Easy Painting

I began by first establishing the horizon lines
by base coating in 
sky and water.

I like to use Ultra Rounds for both base coating and shading.
I build the value by adding several washes of color.
I mop in between each wash.

*** I use separate brushes for my base coating and floating. ***
This insures that the brushes you use to float with maintains a perfect chisel edge!

I keep a separate small bowl of CLEAN water that I use for floating.
If you use the same water that you clean your brushes in to float you you will have a muddy float!

I used a wash of Williamsburg Blue for the water.
I used streaky, short and choppy strokes.
I let the area dry completely.

Next I added the the hills in the background then the hills in the water.

I use Moon and Stain -It brushes to dry brush on the highlights.

Once the hills were painted I added the ship in the background.
I then base coated the cliffs with Cocoa.
I worked wet on wet to slip slap Camel into the Cocoa.
I used French Vanilla to further lighten the edges.
I then shaded the area under where the greenery will be with Asphaltum.

I am now working on the back ground shrubs and trees.

I have started to paint the houses in the back ground.

Continuing to paint the houses in the back ground.
This is a bevel cut surface.
The outer ring is where I will paint the numbers for the clock.

I will now start the lighthouse.

I have finished painting the lighthouse and foliage around it.
Next I will be painting the stone house on the right cliff.

I have finished the stone house and cliff on right.

I am now working on the foreground ship.

I have now mixed a glaze for the outer rim.

To make the GLAZE
I mixed 
Antique Green + Asphaltum + Plantation Pine
I then added to this mix

I used a sponge brush to "press and lift"
glaze medium 
around the outer frame.
It will have a bubbly texture.
While the glaze mixture was still wet 
I used a piece of crumpled up plastic wrap
 to pounce over the area.

Pouncing with the crumpled plastic wrap gave a nice mottled appearance.

I let the outer frame dry completely before proceeding to paint the numbers.

I am now ready to paint the numbers!

I used a vellum template to transfer the numbers to the outer frame.

I used a liner brush with watered down Lamp Black paint to do the numbers.

Almost done!

The numbers are complete!

I used several coats 
on the clock face and outer frame.

I usually apply my first coat of varnish with a large brush.
I ONLY USE this brush for varnish.....nothing else!
I apply additional coats of varnish with a sponge.

I drilled a hole in the center of the clock face for the workings.

It's now THYME to assemble the clock!

Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt 
provided me with the paints to complete this project as part of their 
Helping Artist and Blogger Outreach Programs.


I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint
Portside Clock

Happy Painting!

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I'm hoping that 
Mother Nature 
will soon decide that it is
 SPRING Thyme 
Cape Cod
and warm things up!
In the mean time I can paint things that remind me of SUMMER!

Let's step inside the STUDIO !

Today I am going to show you a project
Oyster Bay
( Small Reproduction Sea Chest)
Cynthia Erekson

My Palette

Victorian Blue, Honey Brown, Milk Chocolate, Lamp Black, Dove Grey, Neutral Grey, Sand, Paynes Grey, Burnt Umber, Antique Gold

Lets Paint!

I began by filling any nail holes.
I let that dry then sanded the filled areas smooth.
I wiped any dust then sealed my box 

I base coated the 4 sides of the outside of the chest
the outside of the lid with Victorian Blue.

When dry I base coated the base Lamp Black along with the edges.
I left some Victorian Blue showing through.

I then transferred just the ground areas to the front of the box.
The ground is base coated 
Honey Brown 
Milk Chocolate.

I used a Moon Brush to dry brush Antique Gold highlights to the ground area.

I also used a Moon Brush to dry brush the clouds.
I've begun working on the water as well.

I shaded around the edges of the box front using Lamp Black.

I then transferred the remaining details to the front of the box.

I am working on the buildings.

Adding detail to the buildings.

I have completed the boat and the whales tail.

I am now working on the lighthouse.

I am now working on the remaining details such as the foliage on trees, fences, weeds and dock.
I added a thinned Honey Brown wash over the completed scene to give it a "mellow glow".
To do this I dabbed the wash with a paper towel to create faint mottling.

Next I created a woodgraining glaze.

I began by pouring (1) nickel size puddle of Lamp Black.

I added (8) nickel size puddles of Glazing Medium

I mixed well with my palette knife.
I then added (4) nickel size puddles
Easy Float 
 mixed again.

I used a small paring knife
to chisel out some small craters 
on one end of a cork.
I used the flat side of a sponge brush
to "brush and swirl "
a complete coat of glaze starting to the back side of the box.

I repeatedly and closely stamped 
the pock marked cork
 into the glazed surface.
I continued over the surface several times
 until the pattern in the glaze
 became smaller and more complex.
I repeated the glaze process on the sides and top of box as well.

I let the glaze dry completely before proceeding.

Once the glaze had dried
 I measured off a 1/4" border 
on the cover of the box
 using tape.
I used a small dry stencil brush 
to pounce Honey Brown 
unevenly into this border.
I distressed some of the edges of the box.
I added the "brass label" using Honey Brown.
I used my liner brush
 with thinned Dove Grey 
to add the word OYSTERS
 to the label.

I applied several coats of Dura Clear Soft Touch Varnish to the box.

Completed Oyster Bay Sea Chest

Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt
 provided me with the paints to complete this project as part of their 
Helping Artist and Blogger Outreach Programs.

Thank you DecoArt!

I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint my
 Oyster Bay Sea Chest.

Happy Painting!


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