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Can you believe that it will be 4th of July this weekend?

I wanted to paint something Red, White & Blue.




Today I am going to show you a project 
called 
Sailor Boy Banner

 Design 
by
Cynthia Erekson


Lets step inside the STUDIO and get started!

My Palette 

Deep Midnight Blue, Uniform Blue, Heritage Brick. Antique Maroon, Khaki Tan, Warm Beige, Tomato Red, Antique White, Buttermilk, Light Buttermilk, Bleached Sand, Antique Gold, Blue Harbor, Dusty Rose, Terra Coral, Lamp Black, Milk Chocolate, Burnt Umber





I began by first lightly sanding my piece then removing the dust. 
I then used a 2" sponge brush to apply a textured coat of Deep Midnight Blue


I then transferred the main elements of the design to the surface.


I base coated the hat with Antique White.

I used my 
Moon Brushes 
to dry brush both the 
highlighted 
and 
shaded areas.
I highlighted heavily to separate
 the brim from the crown, 
along the face and back edge 
using 
Khaki Tan
I used Bleach Sand to dry brush the highlights in.


I also like to use Ultra Rounds  for shading and highlighting.


You can achieve the depth of color you want by applying several washes .


Let each wash dry completely before apply the next so you won't lift the paint!
I keep a small dryer on my table to quicken drying times.


Working on the face and hair.


I have painted the necktie with Heritage Brick. 
I shaded with Antique Maroon and highlighted with Tomato Red.
I am now working on the collar.


I have painted the cuffs, shirt and added the stripes and star to collar.



Finishing details!

I used
Varnish to finish my piece.


The "Kit" to this project came with a burlap flag banner.
However I decided to make a few changes to the project to personalize it.


I began by first cutting a strip of fabric from some heavy muslin.


I then soaked the fabric my 
"grunge mix"
to age it.

*** You can find my grunge mix recipe at the top of the page under the RECIPE tab.***

or
Click 

I usually soak several pieces of fabric when I do this so I have it on hand for other projects.


I then dry my "grungy fabric" on a cookie sheet in a 200 degree oven.
Watch carefully!


I printed out the words OLD GLORY on my computer using 
Avery Fabric Transfer Paper.
Follow directions on the package for ironing on your fabric.


Close up of my grungy banner!



I decided to attach the burlap flag banner
 to an old flag pole that I had
 instead of the dowel that it came on.
Are you ready to see it?


I attached everything to a grapevine wreath.



Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt 
provided me with the paints to complete this project 
as part of their 
Helping Artist and Blogger Outreach Programs.

Thank you DecoArt!







I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint
Sailor Boy Banner!


Happy Painting!

Lynn



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Today
 I wanted to show you a project that I just completed 
called
Catch Of The Day
Design
 by 
Cynthia Erekson


The 
surface is a 30 1/2" tall
 "Dummy Board"

"Dummy Boards" 
were first brought to this country in Colonial Times.
 Cut from flat boards, 
these whimsical figures were painted to resemble men, women or children. 
They were free standing
 and
 were often placed near a fire place with their backs
 to the wall to serve 
as a presence in an empty room.


My Palette


Deep Midnight Blue, Dove Grey, Neutral Grey, Slate Grey, Graphite, Heritage Brick, Dusty Rose, Burnt Sienna, Victorian Blue, Antique Maroon, Warm White, Lamp Black, True Ochre, Milk Chocolate



Let's Paint




I began by first sanding my surface. 
I then wiped the dust.



Next I sealed my wood with 

I let the wood dry.


I applied 2 base coats of  Deep Midnight Blue.
Dry well between each coat.
I then transferred the main design lines to the board.


I base coated the hat, cuffs and pants with Dove Grey.
I shaded these areas with a mix
 of 
Neutral Grey and Slate Grey.


The hat brim, and boots are base coated in Graphite.
The entire 
face and beard area 
is undercoated 
with 
Neutral Grey.


I added several light coats of 
Dusty Rose
to the 
face area.


I created the 
nose and eye sockets 
by shading these areas 
with a mix
 of 
Dusty Rose plus Burnt Sienna.


I usually use 
Ultra Rounds
 for painting.
They hold a lot of water 
and 
their pointed tip make it easier to get into smaller areas.

I always use separate brushes for base coating and floating.
This insures that you have a nice chisel edge on the brushes you use to float.
When floating I like to apply several washes of color to achieve my desired value.


Not only are good brushes important to achieve a good float 
BUT
so is water!
I always have 2 containers of water on my table when I paint.
One container is for rinsing my brushes
the small glass dish contains CLEAN WATER
 to dip my brush in before loading it with paint to float.
You will never get a good float if you are using muddy water from your brush basin.


I have painted the Captains eyes.

I am now working on the jacket.


I used both Moon Brushes and Stain-It Brushes to do the jacket.
The jacket is heavily dry brushed using Victorian Blue to highlight it.
The Deep Midnight Blue I used to base coat the surface now becomes the shading.


I am now working on the beard.


I base coated lobster with Heritage Brick and a small touch of Dusty Rose.


Shading
on lobster was done 
with 
Antique Maroon 
to define the 
body sections


I have painted the wood flag pin.


Close up of face 


Line work details are added.


I spattered my project to add texture.



*** SPATTERING***
To spatter I put a nickel size puddle of paint on my palette. 
I then dip a large stencil brush in my water.
 I blot the brush on a paper towel. 
I then circle the brush in my puddle of paint.
I use my palette knife to repeatedly flick the bristles of the brush, 
pulling towards me using pressure with the palette knife. 
I move across my area as I work. 
Let dry!



I applied several coats of 
to my completed project


Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt 
provided me with the paints to complete this project as part of their
Helping Artist
and
Blogger Outreach Programs


Thank you DecoArt!


I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint
Catch of the Day!

Happy Painting!

Lynn

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Today
 I wanted to show you a project 
called
Tranquil Times
Portside Clock


Design
 by
Rebecca Trimble



Lets step inside the STUDIO!


My Palette

Antique Green, Antique White, Asphaltum, Avocado, Black Green, Black Plum, Blue Chiffon, Burnt Sienna, Cadmium Yellow, Camel, Cocoa, Driftwood, French Vanilla, Gingerbread, Hauser Medium Green, Light Buttermilk. Neutral Grey, Plantation Pine, Raw Sienna, Rookwood Red, Snow ( Titanium) White, Soft Black, Soft Sage, Williamsburg Blue.




The surface I used is a thick MDF.
The surface is bevel cut so it is actually 2 pieces.
I had my good friend
  Sheila Landry 
specially cut the surface for this clock.

You can purchase the surface
HERE

The pattern 
for this project can be found
in the
August 2010
 Issue of Quick and Easy Painting


I began by first establishing the horizon lines
by base coating in 
the 
sky and water.



I like to use Ultra Rounds for both base coating and shading.
I build the value by adding several washes of color.
I mop in between each wash.

*** I use separate brushes for my base coating and floating. ***
This insures that the brushes you use to float with maintains a perfect chisel edge!


I keep a separate small bowl of CLEAN water that I use for floating.
If you use the same water that you clean your brushes in to float you you will have a muddy float!


I used a wash of Williamsburg Blue for the water.
I used streaky, short and choppy strokes.
I let the area dry completely.


Next I added the the hills in the background then the hills in the water.


I use Moon and Stain -It brushes to dry brush on the highlights.

Once the hills were painted I added the ship in the background.
I then base coated the cliffs with Cocoa.
I worked wet on wet to slip slap Camel into the Cocoa.
I used French Vanilla to further lighten the edges.
I then shaded the area under where the greenery will be with Asphaltum.


I am now working on the back ground shrubs and trees.


I have started to paint the houses in the back ground.


Continuing to paint the houses in the back ground.
This is a bevel cut surface.
The outer ring is where I will paint the numbers for the clock.


I will now start the lighthouse.


I have finished painting the lighthouse and foliage around it.
Next I will be painting the stone house on the right cliff.


I have finished the stone house and cliff on right.


I am now working on the foreground ship.


I have now mixed a glaze for the outer rim.

To make the GLAZE
I mixed 
Antique Green + Asphaltum + Plantation Pine
(3:2:touch)
I then added to this mix
(1:1)




I used a sponge brush to "press and lift"
 the 
glaze medium 
around the outer frame.
It will have a bubbly texture.
While the glaze mixture was still wet 
I used a piece of crumpled up plastic wrap
 to pounce over the area.



Pouncing with the crumpled plastic wrap gave a nice mottled appearance.

I let the outer frame dry completely before proceeding to paint the numbers.


I am now ready to paint the numbers!


I used a vellum template to transfer the numbers to the outer frame.


I used a liner brush with watered down Lamp Black paint to do the numbers.


Almost done!


The numbers are complete!


I used several coats 
of
on the clock face and outer frame.


I usually apply my first coat of varnish with a large brush.
I ONLY USE this brush for varnish.....nothing else!
I apply additional coats of varnish with a sponge.


I drilled a hole in the center of the clock face for the workings.

It's now THYME to assemble the clock!


Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt 
provided me with the paints to complete this project as part of their 
Helping Artist and Blogger Outreach Programs.

THANK YOU!






I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint
this
Portside Clock

Happy Painting!
Lynn



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I'm hoping that 
Mother Nature 
will soon decide that it is
 SPRING Thyme 
on 
Cape Cod
and warm things up!
In the mean time I can paint things that remind me of SUMMER!


Let's step inside the STUDIO !


Today I am going to show you a project
 called
Oyster Bay
( Small Reproduction Sea Chest)
Design 
by 
Cynthia Erekson

My Palette


Victorian Blue, Honey Brown, Milk Chocolate, Lamp Black, Dove Grey, Neutral Grey, Sand, Paynes Grey, Burnt Umber, Antique Gold

Lets Paint!


I began by filling any nail holes.
I let that dry then sanded the filled areas smooth.
I wiped any dust then sealed my box 
with


I base coated the 4 sides of the outside of the chest
 and 
the outside of the lid with Victorian Blue.

When dry I base coated the base Lamp Black along with the edges.
I left some Victorian Blue showing through.


I then transferred just the ground areas to the front of the box.
The ground is base coated 
with 
Honey Brown 
and
  shaded
with 
Milk Chocolate.



I used a Moon Brush to dry brush Antique Gold highlights to the ground area.


I also used a Moon Brush to dry brush the clouds.
I've begun working on the water as well.


I shaded around the edges of the box front using Lamp Black.


I then transferred the remaining details to the front of the box.


I am working on the buildings.


Adding detail to the buildings.


I have completed the boat and the whales tail.


I am now working on the lighthouse.


I am now working on the remaining details such as the foliage on trees, fences, weeds and dock.
I added a thinned Honey Brown wash over the completed scene to give it a "mellow glow".
To do this I dabbed the wash with a paper towel to create faint mottling.


Next I created a woodgraining glaze.

I began by pouring (1) nickel size puddle of Lamp Black.


I added (8) nickel size puddles of Glazing Medium

I mixed well with my palette knife.
I then added (4) nickel size puddles
 of 
Easy Float 
and
 mixed again.


I used a small paring knife
to chisel out some small craters 
on one end of a cork.
I used the flat side of a sponge brush
to "brush and swirl "
a complete coat of glaze starting to the back side of the box.


I repeatedly and closely stamped 
the pock marked cork
 into the glazed surface.
I continued over the surface several times
 until the pattern in the glaze
 became smaller and more complex.
I repeated the glaze process on the sides and top of box as well.


I let the glaze dry completely before proceeding.


Once the glaze had dried
 I measured off a 1/4" border 
on the cover of the box
 using tape.
I used a small dry stencil brush 
to pounce Honey Brown 
unevenly into this border.
I distressed some of the edges of the box.
I added the "brass label" using Honey Brown.
I used my liner brush
 with thinned Dove Grey 
to add the word OYSTERS
 to the label.


I applied several coats of Dura Clear Soft Touch Varnish to the box.


Completed Oyster Bay Sea Chest


Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt
 provided me with the paints to complete this project as part of their 
Helping Artist and Blogger Outreach Programs.

Thank you DecoArt!






I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint my
 Oyster Bay Sea Chest.


Happy Painting!

Lynn

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I have fallen behind in blogging about all the projects that I have been painting!
My desk is now cleared!
Today I want to tell you about a project 
called
Crow's Nest Tavern Receipt Box.
Design by
Cynthia Erekson.

Please join me to see how you can transform an ordinary wood box
 into something very unique using simple woodgraining techniques.





My Palette

Camel , Antique Green, Dried Basil Green, Milk Chocolate, Lamp Black, Honey Brown, Dark Chocolate, Soft Black Antique Gold




Let's Paint!


I used a box which measured about 10" x 6" x 4"
You can adjust the pattern to fit any surface!


I began by sealing the box inside and out
 with 

After your sealer has dried sand lightly and wipe off any dust with a paper towel.



I base coated all outer surfaces of the box and lid with Camel.

I loaded the broad flat side of a 2" sponge brush with a good amount of paint.
I began in the center of each section of the box
 and
 repeatedly used a "press" and "lift" motion to create a textured surface. 



I painted the inside of the box and lid with Antique Green.


I taped off the top of the box
 leaving a rectangle area about 6 1/2" x 2 1/2" exposed 
in the center of the cover.

I then mixed a wood graining glaze.
I began by squirting a quarter size puddle
 of 
Milk Chocolate
in the center of my palette.
Around that puddle I carefully squirted
 4 quarter size puddles 
of 

The puddles must be the same size as the Milk Chocolate puddle! 
Measure carefully!

I then added 2 quarter size puddles of Easy Float

I mixed this all together with a palette knife.



I loaded the flat side of a sponge brush 
and 
again used a "press" and "lift" motion
 to apply a bubbly coat of glaze to the center of the lid.


I then used a graining tool and pulled it through the glaze mix on the box cover.



I repeated the "graining" on the 2 sides and back of the box. 
The front of the box is where we will paint the design.

You must allow the graining to dry completely!


I then added the borders on the box 
by carefully removing the tape I had applied.
I used a stencil brush 
to pounce on 2 coats of Dark Chocolate 
into the 1" border.
Make sure your brush is DRY 
to avoid seepage of paint
 under your taped edges.
I then removed the 1/4" tape 
and 
used a dry stencil brush loaded 
with 
Antique Green 
to pounce the next border.


I painted the rope with Dark Chocolate. 
I highlighted with Camel 
and 
added the line detail with Lamp Black.

I shaded around all the edges 
of the of each side of the box
  (front, sides, and back) 
using 
Dark Chocolate
on a dry stencil brush.
I repeated using Lamp Black.


I transferred the design to the front of the box adding details as needed.


The details have all been painted.
I love the muted colors of this box.


I applied several coats of 
using a sponge.
Let the varnish dry completely between coats!

I have a selection of sponges in the the STUDIO like those shown above.
I use the round flat ones to apply varnish.
The Soft Touch Varnish will give your project a wonderful matte finish with no streaks!



I attached hardware to the cover of my box.


My completed project.


Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt 
provided me with the paints 
and products to complete this project as part of their
Helping Artist
and 
Blogger Outreach Programs



THANK YOU DecoArt!



I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint this
Crow's Nest Tavern Receipt Box.


Happy Painting!
Lynn


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It's no secret
 that 
I LOVE to paint!

I will paint on just about ANY surface.



It's easy to do when there are so many products out there to create with.
Today I wanted to show you an apron that I painted.
Often I just use "portions" of a design to create a whole new project.

I used a design
 by 
Judy Westegaard CDA 
to complete this project

I modified the design to fit my surface .

The design is part of
 Judy's
  Art Studio Fun Collection
from her
Chalk It Up Book

I have painted a few projects from this book.
You can see those projects by clicking on the links below.

Life is Better When Your Painting 
can be found

Creative Minds Are Seldom Tidy
can be found



My Palette
DecoArt Traditions Acrylic Paint

Burnt Umber, Carbon Black, Dioxazine Purple,Hansa Yellow, Medium Beige, Medium White, Napthol Red, Perinone Orange, Prussian Blue Hue, Raw Sienna, Sapphire Blue, Teal Green, Titanium White, Ultramarine Blue, Yellow Oxide



I began by first
  washing and drying 
the apron to remove the sizing.


Next I cut a piece of 
waxed freezer coated paper 
a little larger than the area that I was going to paint.

I used a warm iron , no steam 
to adhere the paper
 to the back side of the apron
under the area that I was going to be painting.


I then used white graphite paper to transfer the pattern to my apron.



I use a Sewline Tracer Roller Ball Pen to transfer designs to fabric.
* It won't tear your line drawing or graphite paper.





I used a white chalk pencil 
to darken any lines that needed darkening
 so I could see the design better.


I added a few drops of Fabric Medium to my paints.



When painting on FABRIC you need to be careful of a few things!

Paint bleeding is one of those things!


I like to use Moon Brushes for this reason
I use a very dry brush 
and 
first outline the area to be painted
 with the 
chisel edge of the
Moon Brush


I then use my Ultra Round brushes to fill in the area. 
I am very careful about the amount  of water I use. 
Less is more!
You do not want to saturate your fabric!
I like to build the intensity of color gradually.


I always keep a Tide Pen handy when working on fabric.
They are good to get rid of a tiny smudge that may happen if you catch it immediately.



I painted several of the brush handles first.


I am working on the bristles.


It can be a little more difficult to shade on fabric.
BUT
It can be achieved by dry brushing!
I used either my
Moon Brushes or Stain- It
brushes for the dry brush shading.


The first 3 brushes are complete!


I am working on the remaining brushes.


I have finished painting all the brushes.


I am working on the palette knife.


I am now working on the pencil.


Close up view.


After I had completed my painting I put a 
clean white cloth 
over the design 
and 
ironed it to set the paint.


Does it look like you can grab one of those brushes out of the pocket?


My completed apron.



Close up of design.



Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt 
provided me with the paints to complete this project as part of their
Helping Artist
 and
DecoArt Blogger Outreach Programs









Thank you DecoArt!



I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint this project!

Because.......

Life REALLY is better when you are painting!




Happy Painting !

Lynn



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I have gotten a little behind on my blogging!
Today I wanted to show you a project that I completed for 
Christmas 
called
Chestnut Ridge Rope Bed.
Design
 by 
Cynthia Erekson

If you know a little girl
 or
 have grand daughters 
who love dolls
 then this is a project you must try!


I also painted a couple small dressers to complete this project.


Lets step inside the STUDIO !


My Palette


Sand, Traditional Raw Umber, Wedgewood Blue, Rookwood Red, Blue Haze, Milk Chocolate, Deep Burgundy






I used Wood Filler to fill any nail holes

I then sanded my pieces and removed the dust with a damp paper towel.



I mixed Multi Purpose Sealer (1) : (1) with Rookwood Red







I applied one coat of the sealer mixed with paint to all the surfaces with a brush.


I let the paint dry well then applied a second coat of just Rookwood Red to all my surfaces.



I often use a blow dryer to speed up drying times.


I then transferred the oval design to the inside of the headboard.


I painted inside the oval area with Sand leaving it slightly mottled.


Once the oval area was dry I transferred the horizon line on.
I shaded around the oval with Wedgewood Blue plus Blue Haze.
I pulled the shading towards the center of the sky.
I painted the ground area a streaky Milk Chocolate.
I shaded the ground area with Traditional Raw Umber.


I transferred the remainder of the design onto the oval 
and
 onto the outside of the footboard.


Working on the headboard.


I stenciled a doily to the top of each of the bureaus
using
a
DecoArt Stencil
called
it measures
 6" x 8" 


I had to adjust the stencil some to fit the bureau tops.


dresser and bed


I have completed the the path and large flower,
 I am now working on
 other small details 
including the berries and leaves on the outer edge of the design.


I am working on the vines and berries on the outer edges of the design.


I have also added the foliage to the tress.
I have a variety of sponges in the STUDIO which are great for tree foliage.
I used a dampened silk sponge for the tree foliage on the bed.





I dampen my sponge and squeeze out the excess water.
 I then dipped the sponge in Milk Chocolate.
I pounce the sponge several times on my palette to work the paint into the sponge.
I then tap sponge on surface to create distinct but light and airy foliage.
Touch down only ONCE so as not to "muddy" up your foliage! 



I dampened a paper towel and dipped it in a bit of Milk Chocolate.
I worked the paint into the towel by pressing it on the palette several times.
I then scrunched the towel and pressed it lightly onto the sky to add mottled color here and there.
The effect should look "tea stained".
Let dry completely.


I sanded areas of the beds and dressers to give them an aged look.
I applied several coats of Dura Clear Ultra Matte Varnish
I let the pieces dry completely for a few days before proceeding.


I used awl to clear any debris from all the holes in the bed
 and
 to enlarge them.
I began by cutting a 4 1/2 yd. piece of jute.
I then began stringing the jute through the holes to create the rope bed.


The stringing of the bed was a somewhat tedious task.......but wait until you see the end result!


The first bed is strung!


I had some old curtains that had faded.
 I was no longer going to use them.
BUT
I saved them as they come in handy for projects like this!
Talk about a perfect match of color!



I cut out 2 mattress's and 2 quilts.


A stitch in thyme!
Just before Christmas Time!


Rosemary Reynolds 
and 
DecoArt 
provided me with the paints and products
 to complete this project as part of their
 Helping Artist and Blogger Outreach Programs.

Thank you DecoArt!





I hope you have enjoyed watching me create these
Chestnut Ridge Rope Beds
and
dressers.


My grand Daughter Princess Natalie sure loved them!

Happy Painting !
Lynn



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The New Year has brought us some frigid temps here on Ole Cape Cod!
We thankfully have only received a dusting of SNOW.
BUT that doesn't mean you can't have SNOWMEN!


Let's step inside the STUDIO to see what I have been painting!


Today I am working on a project 
called 
Sweet Snowman Angel

The design for this project 
is by
Amy Mogish

You can find the pattern in the book
Jane And Amy Create Christmas


My Palette

Antique White, Autumn Red, Black Forest Green, Dark Chocolate, Graphite, Hot Shots Fiery Red, Lamp Black, Leaf Green, Light Buttermilk, Mistletoe, Neutral Grey, Slate Grey, Soft Black, Warm White, Black Chalkboard Paint




Lets paint!



The surface I used is a Mini cheese box. (3 3/4" x 6" D)


I prepped my surface by rolling on 2 coats 
of 

I painted both the inside and outside.

I let that dry well.




I prepared
 a 
Duster Stippler Brush 
with 
Graphite 
as you would for dry brushing.

Make sure it is very dry! 
You should not see paint moving around on your surface!


I dry brushed over the entire surface in a circular motion with the Graphite.
When dry I repeated the process with Neutral Grey.


I transferred the main elements of the design to the surface with white graphite paper.

I used my Moon Brush loaded with Slate Grey to outline the snowman.

*** Your brush should be VERY DRY! ***

I used a Stain It Brush to base coat the area with Slate Grey, then Light Buttermilk.




I added highlights using Warm White thru the belly and front of face.

I prefer to
layer my highlights and shadows
and 
not try to achieve it in one stroke of the brush!


I used Neutral Grey , then Graphite
 to add shading under the hat, left side of head, under chin, and the arms.


Working on the face and additional shading.


I am now working on the hat.


I have base coated the holly leaves on hat.


Isn't he SWEET?


I am now working on the berries.


I have added the homespun "angel wings" and of course bakers twine!


I did not have a White Prisma Color Pencil as suggested in the pattern.
Instead I used a Generals Charcoal White Pencil for the lettering.


When using a chalk pencil no matter how careful you are there will be some smudges.
Clean up is important!



I use a Point Blend Brush dipped in water to clean up any smudges.


It is essential
to use
  Workable Fixative
to 
affix the chalk pencil 
to the surface 
BEFORE you varnish!!




The lettering around the bottom of the box 
says
WARM HEART COLD NOSE


I will now work on the rim of the box.



I used my
  Micron Mini Detail and Lettering Brushes
to  add the 
Autumn Red 
border on the rim of cover.





I used a small snowflake stencil to add snowflakes around the box.


I also painted the under side of the cover!


Under side of cover!



I dry brushed some snow on the rim of the box with Warm White.

I varnished the box with several coats of Dura Clear Matte Varnish.


I lined the inside of my box with scrapbook paper.


Once I had cut and measured my pieces
 I used an old brush to apply
to the back side of each paper




I applied once piece at a time carefully smoothing out any air bubbles.
HINT (You can use the edge of an old credit card for this)


Lining the inside of your box adds so much to your project!


You can use your box for a small candle
or 
gift it with some fresh baked goodies


Or better yet keep it for yourself!
This was a fun project to paint!

Thank you Amy!


Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt 
provided me with the paints to complete this project 
as part of their 
Helping Artist and Blogger Outreach Programs

Thank you DecoArt!







I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint
Sweet Snowman Angel


Happy Painting !

Lynn 


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Today
 I wanted to show you my latest project 
called
Snowflake St. Nick

This is a 30" tall Santa Dummy Board

Design 
by
Cynthia Erekson


"Dummy Boards" 
were first brought to this country during colonial times. 
They were cut from flat boards,
 these whimsical figures were painted to resemble men, women or children 
and 
sometimes plants or animals. 
They were free standing 
and
 were often placed near a fireplace with their backs to the wall
 and
 served to "provide a presence" in an empty room.


Lets step inside my STUDIO to see what I have been painting!



My Palette


Lamp Black, Deep Burgundy, Shading Flesh, True Ochre, Charcoal Grey, Leaf Green, Hauser Dark Green, Dusty Rose, Titanium White, Neutral Grey, Dove Grey, Tomato Red
Lets paint!!!


My surface is cut from 3/4" pine.
It measures 3/4" x 11 " x 30"


I began by lightly sanding the surface and removing the dust.





I used equal amounts of sealer and paint.
(1) Multipurpose Sealer : (1) Lamp Black






I base coated the surface with 2 coats 
of 
Lamp Black plus Multi Purpose Sealer.
I used a large flat American Decor Brush to base coat.






I transferred the main elements of the design to my surface with graphite paper.
The hat and bag are painted with Deep Burgundy.
I applied one coat and let it dry.
The second coat is done by working from the center of each area out to the edges.
This allows for some areas to appear darker.
I added additional shading with Lamp Black.
I highlighted the top and right side
of the hat and "bulges" in the bag 
with 
Deep Burgundy and a touch of Shading Flesh.


The hat brim, mitten and boot are painted with True Ochre leaving a mottled surface.
I highlighted these areas by first loading a stencil brush with True Ochre.
I circled the brush on my palette to evenly distribute the paint in the bristles.

Next I picked up some
on the same brush.

I circled the brush on my palette to slightly blend the two colors.
I then pounced the brush lightly through
 the 
center of the hat brim, along the thumb and center of mitten.

I shaded the hat brim area where it meets the face with Charcoal Grey.
The boots were shaded with Lamp Black.

I spattered the hat brim, mitten and boot heavily with Charcoal Grey.
I let spatters dry completely before proceeding!





I created the arm and coat front by highlighting 
with 


I transferred the lines for the wide vertical bands of color on the plaid.


I am working on the vertical bands of color on the bottom of the coat.
I used Leaf Green and Tomato Red.


The face is base coated with several coats of Dusty Rose.
I shaded the eye sockets and along the nose
 with a mix 
of
 Dusty Rose and Shading Flesh.


I have base coated the eye area with Titanium White.
I base coated the beard with an under coat of Neutral Grey.
When dry I took a fully loaded stencil brush loaded 
with 
Dove Grey 
and 
pounced the beard area.


I then used my brush loaded with Dove Grey to define the mustache.


I used a small stencil brush loaded
 with 
Dove Grey
to add snowflakes of different sizes 
to
 the bag.
After I had completed all the snowflakes
 I added Dazzling Metallics White Pearl to my brush 
and 
went over the snowflakes to add subtle shine.
Make sure you re-align your stencil carefully to do this!


 I stenciled on the large snowflake on the coat 
with 
I left my stencil in place
 and 
went over the snowflake lightly
 using 


I am now working on the eyes.


I am now working on the beard.
I use Silver Micron Mini Detail brushes for all fine line work and details.






Close up of face and beard.


I am now painting the holly leaves.


I am now adding the dots using a stylus and end of a large brush handle.

I am also finishing the line work to complete the plaid pattern.


Santa is now ready to have his coat "spattered".


Before spattering I covered Santa's face 
with a 
paper towel.
To spatter 
I dipped just the tips of  a medium stencil brush
in 
water.
I then circled the brush 
in a
  dime size puddle 
of 
Titanium White.
I then hold my brush over my surface to be spattered 
and 
flick some bristles 
by pulling towards me with my palette knife.
Turn your brush occasionally to access fresh paint.
Let spatters dry well!
I applied several coats 
of
to my finished Santa



Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt
provided me with the paints 
and 
products to complete this project 
as part of their 
Helping Artist and Blogger Outreach Programs.

Thank you DecoArt!







I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint

Snowflake Santa

Happy Painting!

Lynn



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There are only 6 days until Christmas!!





Are you ready?



I'm still wrapping......with the "help" of my STUDIO assistants......HINKLEY and Oreo!


I'm still baking!


AND I'm still painting some ornaments!

Today I wanted to show you some Santa ornaments that Im working on.

This project is called
Stat Light Santa
Design by
Roxanne Puchalski MDA

I converted the colors
 for this project 
to 


Uniform Blue, Shading Flesh, Fleshtone, Country Red, Warm White, Lamp Black, Charcoal Gray , Neutral Gray, Black Plum, Traditional Burnt Umber, Honey Brown





Let's Paint


I mixed 
Multi Purpose Sealer
with my initial base coat color which
 was 
Uniform Blue


When dry I painted a second coat of just Deep Midnight Blue.



When my surfaces were dry I transferred the design with graphite paper.
I painted Santa's hat with 2 coats of Country Red.
When base coating with RED I usually first paint a base of Gray. 
I used Neutral Gray.
I painted the face with Fleshtone.


I shaded the cheeks and defined the nose and eye area next.
I then painted the eyes.


I defined the curls in the beard using a mix of Lamp Black, Neutral Gray and Charcoal Gray.


I left some of the blue background showing through the beard.


I used my Texture-It brush to stipple on the fur with Warm White.


I added some shading to the fur first with Honey Brown
I deepened it with a little Traditional Burnt Umber.
I then used my Silver Micron Mini detail brush to pull additional fur on the hat and pompom with Warm White.

I used my detail brush to also do the beard with Warm White.

I also pulled some hairs up onto the hat with Neutral Gray



I brushed some Glamour Dust Ice Crystal on the hat fur.


I added some tiny stars to the background with Warm White.



I shaded along the fur line on the hat with Black Plum.
I highlighted the hat with a wash of Hot Shots Fiery Red.




I found some large wood ornament shapes.


I painted the FRONT of the ornament shapes 
with 


I painted the BACKS of the ornaments first with Uniform Blue.

I used a stencil for the backs of the ornaments.
I used a very dry stencil brush loaded
 with
to do the lettering and design.

I "dusted" the Shimmering Silver on using the stencil.



I then added 
some
Silver DecoArt Twinkles 
to the stencil design and all around the outside edges of the ornament.



I used Wood Glue to put the ornaments together

After everything was dry I sprayed the ornaments with several coats 
of 








Rosemary Reynolds and DecoArt
provided me with the paints and products 
to complete this project as part of their 

Helping Artist Program
and
Blogger Outreach Program


Thank you DecoArt!





I hope you have enjoyed watching me paint
Star Light Santa


Happy Painting !

Lynn








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