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A musician, military wife, and mother to two young children, Jen authors The House of Wood as her creative outlet for all things DIY and design, where she documents her adventures in woodworking, interior design, military life, marriage, and motherhood. Jen offers in-depth tutorials that inspire and encourage readers to build their way to a more beautiful home.
Hi friends! Is it getting warm where you are? Central Texas weather is so unpredictable – one day it’ll be in the 30s (not my fave) and the next day it’ll be in the high 70s (totally my fave). These sporadic warm days have me jonesing for Spring. So in the spirit of Springtime, I made these adorable DIY Wood Bunny Napkin Rings – aren’t they perfect for a Spring or Easter table setting?
Today, I’m joining several of my blogger friends as we share new Spring-inspired DIY crafts – be sure to check out all the Spring loveliness linked at the end of this post. Thanks to Krista at The Happy Housie for organizing this fun blog hop!
Have you seen the Peter Rabbit movie yet? We really enjoyed it – now I want to own a colony/herd/kindle/fluffle of rabbits and dress them up in tiny jackets. Did you know a group of rabbits is called a “fluffle”? (It’s too bad Merriam-Webster doesn’t recognize the word.) If the word “fluffle” doesn’t make you smile, you might be related to the McGregors. Do you happen to like rabbit pie? You might be a McGregor…
Sorry. I don’t ever use that made-up word in real life.
But maybe now I will.
*This post contains affiliate links. To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.
Let’s get on with the tutorial, shall we?
If you want to make your own DIY Wood Bunny Napkin Rings, first download the template, print, and cut it out. Trace the template onto a piece of 3/4-inch thick wood with a pencil. I used a scrap of gorgeous black walnut.
You can cut out the bunny shape in a variety of ways – you can use a scroll saw, jigsaw, band saw, or even a CNC machine, if you have one – basically, any tool that allows you to make curved cuts. I’d recommend using a drill with a Forstner bit to cut the center hole out. You can use a spade bit or even try to do it manually with a jigsaw or scroll saw, but I prefer the precision of a Forstner bit.
Unless there are robots involved. Then I prefer the precision of a robot.
I have an Inventables XCarve 3D carving machine, so I loaded up my design into the program and let the robot do the cutting. I mean, if robots are ever a choice, we choose robots – amiright?
After about 40 minutes, the machine had 6 bunny napkin rings cut out. If you have an X-Carve and want to use my design, you’ll find it here.
After Valentine’s Day heavy chocolate and sweets intake, I am bringing you guys a Fresh Mango Smoothie recipe.
It’s Aniko from Place of My Taste and I am back here to share another great, colorful, healthy (and easy) recipe today. This is hands-down, one of the easiest smoothies to make AND it tastes like a drink from the islands. As a matter of fact, you could probably convert this into a happy hour drink with a little rum- but let’s leave that out for breakfast or people might talk- haha! I like to buy frozen fruit so my smoothies are super cold. You can always use fresh fruit and reduce the water amount then replace that with ice too. If you aren’t crazy about an ingredient just switch it out for something you DO like.
Smoothies are so fun and easy – and a perfect place to get creative. I often switch out water for coconut water (BONUS: this is packed with electrolytes) or almond milk if I want it smooth and creamy. You can also always add a bit of yogurt if you want it to be richer and thicker.
A lot of times, I add baby kale or spinach to my smoothie to get an extra veggie in for the day. Try this Green Goddess Smoothie Recipe if you want to switch things up. Adding greens to your smoothies can be really delicious and help you feel healthier! That green goddess smoothie has some ingredients that you probably have around anyways- so give it a try! Smoothies are also my kids’ favorites and my favorite way to make my boys to eat their greens and veggies.
Give it go and let me know how you like it! If you missed my yummy Veggie Quinoa Bowl last month, you can grab the recipe here.
As always, thanks so much for reading and be sure to visit my blog at Place of My Taste where I feel so grateful to be able to share how I like to live and eat beautifully… so you can too!
This Kentucky Bourbon Butter Bundt Cake with Salted Caramel Glaze is super moist, buttery, and ridiculously rich! And when you think it can’t get any better, just add bourbon!
Prior to living in Kentucky, Adam was pretty much a Scotch snob… which is unfortunate because you can’t get good Scotch for cheap. Thank goodness for Kentucky – while you can’t skimp on Scotch, you can find a pretty decent bourbon for not a lot of money.
I first made a version of this Kentucky Butter Cake at this year’s Superbowl party (Go Eagles!) and it got rave reviews. But since this is called a Kentucky Butter Cake, what’s more Kentuckian than bourbon?!
Adam’s Top 5 Bourbons are:
Blanton’s Single Barrel
This Kentucky Bourbon Butter Bundt Cake with Salted Caramel Glaze is super moist and sweet and the salted caramel glaze just puts it over the edge. It’s a little ridiculous, really. Totally over the top. I personally don’t have a huge sweet tooth, so this cake is a bit rich for my taste when you add the caramel glaze, but Adam has a mouthful of sweet teeth, so it’s right up his alley.
Take this Kentucky Butter Cake to the next level with bourbon and a gooey, salted caramel glaze! This cake is super moist and buttery, and the salted caramel glaze adds an extra dose of richness – it’s downright sinful!
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3 large eggs, room temperature
1 egg yolk
3/4 cup buttermilk
1 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/4 cup bourbon whiskey
1/4 cup unsalted butter
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 cup whole milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Salted Caramel Glaze:
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup water
1 cup heavy cream
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Make the Cake
Preheat the oven to 350º F. Spray a 10-inch bundt cake pan with non-stick cooking spray and sprinkle a little flour in it.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda together.
Cream the butter, eggs, and vanilla in the bowl of an electric stand mixer on medium speed.
Whisk the bourbon and buttermilk together in a liquid measuring cup. Set aside.
Add a third of the dry ingredients to the stand mixer, then add half of the buttermilk/bourbon mixture, alternating the two until everything is incorporated. Try not to overmix the batter.
Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and bake in the oven for about 45 minutes, or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean.
Prepare the Butter Sauce
While the cake is baking, prepare the butter sauce. In a medium saucepan, combine the butter, sugar, milk, and vanilla extract and cook over medium heat, until the butter is melted and the mixture is fully combined. Be careful not to let the mixture boil.
After the cake is done baking, while it’s still warm, use a wooden skewer to poke holes into the cake and spoon the butter sauce over the cake, letting the sauce get down into the holes. Set the cake aside to let it cool and soak up the butter sauce while you make the caramel glaze.
Make the Caramel Glaze
In a tall, heavy-bottomed saucepan, mix the sugar and water until combined. Turn the heat to medium-high and bring the mixture to a boil. Here’s the hard part: don’t touch it! You can swirl the pan periodically to get rid of any hot spots, but don’t stir. Boil the mixture until it becomes a golden amber color, about 8-10 minutes. Be sure to watch it so that it doesn’t get too dark or it’ll be bitter.
Warm the cream, butter, and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. Once the caramel reaches a golden amber color, remove it from the heat and slowly add the cream mixture. Be careful – the cream will bubble up violently. Stir the vanilla in.
Put the mixture back on medium heat and boil until it reaches 220º F on a candy thermometer or until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Once the cake is cool, remove it from the pan and drizzle the caramel glaze over it. Enjoy!
Hey guys! It’s Shara here from Woodshop Diaries and I’m so excited to be contributing to The House of Wood!! I’ve been a big fan of Jen’s for a good while and actually worked with her last year to bring my modern dog house to life!
Like Jen, I love building furniture and am excited to bring you the tutorial to build this simple DIY side table!
Tools and Materials:
Pocket hole jig
2-inch wood screws
1 1/4-inch wood screws (optional)
2 1/2-inch pocket hole screws
(1) 1 x 6 x 8 Ft. boards
(2) 2 x 2 x 8 Ft. boards
(4) 2×2 @ 22 inches long (legs)
(4) 2×2 @ 13 inches long (base X pieces)
(3) 1×6 @ 16 inches long (top)
Step 1: Assemble the simple side table top. Apply some wood glue to the edges between the boards, then glue and clamp together. Alternatively, you could also use 3/4-inch pocket holes with 1 1/4-inch pocket hole screws to attach the three boards. I prefer to just glue them.
I cut my boards a little long to trim down later; it makes for a smoother edge. While the glue is drying, you can work on assembling the base.
Step 2: Create the table base Xs:
Find the center of each 13-inch board and mark 3/4 inches on each side of the center. Then, mark 3/4 inches into the board from the edge. Use a jigsaw and a chisel to cut out a notch like shown so that when fitted together, the two boards create an X. Apply some wood glue into the notches and fit together to create two identical Xs. This is called a half lap joint. You can drive a 1 1/4-inch wood screw into the bottom side to strengthen the joint.
If you’d prefer, you could also attach the Xs using pocket holes and screws. I like the half lap joint better, though. I also used this joinery in my super simple DIY bar stool.
Step 3: Assemble the side table base:
Drill one 1 1/2-inch pocket holes into each leg of each X using a pocket hole jig and a drill. Then, cut the legs and make a mark from the bottom of each leg about 2 inches up. Line the BOTTOM of one of the legs of one of your Xs up with the mark and attach using a 2 1/2-inch pocket hole screw.
Work your way around until all of the legs are attached.
Do the same with the other X along the top of the legs.
Step 4: Attach the base and top together:
Once you’ve cut down and sanded the top and base, turn the top upside down on your work surface and place the base upside down on top of it making sure that it’s centered. Using 2-inch wood screws, attach each leg of the top X to the top as shown.
Then, feel free to finish as desired! I used a stencil to create a Kentucky design on the top of mine like I did with these DIY lazy susans. It would look cute with a painted bottom and stained top as well! Get creative with your finish choices to make this simple DIY side table project your own.
And that’s it! Hope you guys enjoyed the tutorial for this quick and simple DIY side table! It would also make a great plant stand or nightstand!
Just because we homeschool, we don’t have to miss out on the fun of giving out Valentine’s Day cards! I helped the kids make these adorable Tic Tac Toe Valentines for their friends and they’re so excited to hand them out. The free printable cards are down below! Just download, print, cut, and add the Tic Tacs!
Playing a quick game of Tic Tac Toe is perfect for Valentine’s Day because of the Xs and Os… as in XOXO. How perfect is that for Love Day?!
I can’t get over how cute these Tic Tac Toe Valentines are! Download the cards, print and cut them out, then use a single glue dot to stick the Tic Tacs to the card. So quick and easy!
To download the PDF file for these Tic Tac Toe Valentine’s Day Cards, just click the image below!
Hello everyone! I’m excited to be writing my first post as guest contributor on The House of Wood! I’m Sheri from Hazel + Gold Designs and I am a DIY blogger who dabbles in a lot of creative mediums. I also have many other hobbies. One of my favorite things to do (other than DIY projects) is read. I just love books. Everything about them. Which also means that I have books displayed throughout my home. Today I’m going to show you how to create these amazing DIY Decorative Wooden Bookends.
Let’s do it!
Tools and Supplies I used:
1×4 10-foot pine board
French curve stencil or design
Drill and bit
Miter saw (a circular saw could work too)
Sand paper – #120 and #220
Orbital sander (optional)
Towel for wiping off stain
Cut Curved Pieces:
The first step in this project is to make the curved parts of the bookends. First, trace your design onto paper. I used a French curve stencil and traced out 4 pieces. Once you have them traced, cut 4 pieces of wood at least the length that you need. You may want a little extra to hold onto when cutting with the scroll saw. Use a spray adhesive to adhere the stencils to your wood.
Before you start cutting, drill pilot holes into the sections you’ll be cutting out in the middle of the design.
Begin cutting on the scroll saw, starting with the inner cuts then working your way out. This is a pretty simple pattern for a beginner. (I am definitely an amateur scroller!) Cut out all 4 pieces. You will use two on each bookend.
Once your curved pieces are cut, lay one onto the rest of your board and trace a line imitating the outer shape. This will become the center piece. In this photo, I traced the bottom edge of the center piece about 1/4″ wider than the curved piece, leaving a right angle on the back side which will attach to the base (if that is confusing, scroll down to assembly instructions.) Cut this shape with the scroll saw twice.
Cut Base and Sand:
Next, cut the base on the miter saw. This just needs to be tall enough and long enough to encase the curved pieces. My curved pieces were about 9.5″x3.5″ so I cut my long pieces at 10.5″ and my short pieces at 4″. You will need two of each.
Now go ahead and sand all of the pieces. An orbital sander works for the straight pieces and sides, but I sanded the curved pieces by hand so they wouldn’t get damaged. First, sand with 120-grit, then move up to 220-grit for a nice smooth finish.
Use a sponge brush to stain all of the pieces. Remember to wear protective gloves! The sponge tends to get just enough stain on the wood and is able to get into the crevices in the curved pieces. Cover the entire piece with stain, then use a towel to wipe off the excess.
*Pro Tip: you will be gluing all of the pieces together with wood glue. Some people tend to think the stain will interfere with the adhesion, but I haven’t found that to be a problem. This is not a piece that will hold weight. However, if you are concerned with that, you can choose not to stain the areas you will be gluing. I didn’t find it worth the extra thought and effort in this case.
Let the stain dry according to the instructions on the can.
Assemble and Finish:
Time for the glue-up! Get your clamps and wood glue ready at hand. Glue a curved piece onto each side of your center pieces. I used a straight edge to make sure the bottom was flush.
Clamp these pieces together and let the glue dry for at least 30 minutes. Do this for both bookends.
Next, glue up the base. Make sure it is at a right angle and simply glue a long and short piece together. Clamp and let that glue dry for 30 minutes as well.
Finally, glue the curved pieces to the bases. This should be simple – just make sure you center them into the base. Clamp and let dry for 30 minutes.
Now just use some polyurethane to add a little shine to the piece. I used two coats and sanded with 220-grit in between.
Now you have two gorgeous handmade DIY Decorative Wooden Bookends that didn’t cost much to make but will look beautiful on any shelf!
Depending on the layout of your shelf and where it lives in your room, you can even turn them sideways!
I hope you liked this DIY Decorative Wooden Bookends tutorial! Let me know what you think in the comments. This is a great project for anyone who has access to a scroll saw – beginner or pro! Thanks for reading! If you make them, be sure to share photos with us.
Hello House of Wood readers, Jaime here from jaimecostiglio.com and I’m honored to be guest posting here on Jen’s site. We are longtime woodworking friends who share the joy of creating and making all the things – just like you! Wood happens to be the preferred material of choice for both of us but I never shy away from paint or fabric as well. I’m very excited to be part of Jen’s contributor team and look forward to sharing many projects with you over the year.
Let’s get this party started with making these DIY faux brass and marble candle holders.
Don’t tell anyone, but these candleholders are not real brass and marble! Did I have you fooled? I happen to think they look pretty real, especially that marble base:
The secret is in the DIY sauce.
In all honesty, when Jen shared her round marble side table, I just had to try it for myself. I think you’ll agree the results are pretty fantastic.
Your next table setting will look beautiful with these DIY faux brass and marble candle holders. The inspiration for this project came from here, but I opted for a marble base. And these candleholders are extremely economical running about $5 each, which means you could make a bunch running down the center of your table and it won’t break the bank!
I’ll show you how to make these DIY faux brass and marble candle holders down below.
Supply quantities will depend on how many candleholders you wish to make. You can make 4 candle holder bases using the sample size marble contact paper.
Step 1: Using a 7/8″ Forstner bit, drill a hole into the flat side of the wood doll head. This hole is for your taper candles. Double check the width of your tapers and adjust the drill bit size accordingly.
Step 1 continued: Place the doll head in a vise and drill about 3/4″ deep, enough for the candle to sit properly. Sand any rough edges using 150-grit sandpaper.
Step 2: Flip the wood doll head over and using a 1/2″ Forstner bit drill a hole for the wood dowel post, about 1/2″ deep.
Step 3: Find and mark the center of the wood circles. Using the same 1/2″ Forstner bit, drill a 1/2″ deep hole for the dowel.
Step 4: Unroll the marble contact paper. Place the wood circle on top of the paper and cut a piece slightly larger than the 5″ circle. Cut 7/8″ strips for the edging. Try to cut one continuous strip for the entire edge but you can piece it together if necessary.
Step 5: Peel off the paper backing from the contact paper and press onto the top flat circle surface. Refer to Step 6 to trim the rough edge and achieve a super clean finish. Apply the edge strips keeping the top edge flush with the top of the circle and letting the overhang peek over the bottom edge.
Step 6: To achieve a super clean finished edge, use sandpaper to remove the excess contact paper. Be sure to sand at a 45º angle.
Step 7: Spray paint the wood dowel and doll heads using metallic gold. Loosely attach the dowels to a scrap board to make spray painting easier. Once dry, use wood glue to assemble your candleholders.
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial for these DIY faux brass and marble candle holders. We love to see reader projects, so please be sure to share and tag us (@jenwoodhouse and @jaimecostiglio) if you make these! I’ll be back with lots more DIY in the near future.
Well, hello! I’m Maritza from Maritza Lisa and I am so, so thrilled to be here and share a few of my fun tutorials with you.
Since we’re officially in Valentine’s month, I thought these quick and easy DIY Valentine’s Postcards would be a perfect project for the weekend. Some of us can’t wish a Happy Valentine’s to all our loved ones in person, so why not send out some love notes via snail mail? These sweet postcards will be a hit, I promise!
I’ve linked the template for these DIY Valentine’s Postcards for you to use below so that you can print out and send as many as you like. The “Sending Love” one can be used for all occasions!
What you need:
Favorite Font – I used Phosphate
White or colored cardstock/bristol paper (like cardstock but thicker)
Type your message in your favorite font (I used “LOVE YOU”), and repeat throughout the printable area to create a pattern
Add color or keep as is to your text or page
Print your patterned text on to your cardstock or bristol paper
Place your patterned cardstock back in your printer in such a way that you will print on the non-patterned side
Now print the postcard template
Cut along the border of each template
And that’s it! You’ve designed your very own DIY Valentine’s Postcards with simple text and now you can send your sweet notes to friends and family. I’m sure they would absolutely love getting these in the mail!
How To Make a $4 Centerpiece With Grocery Store Flowers
Hello everyone! I am Carrie Bishop from River Rose Flower Company and I am excited to be a part of the House of Wood family! I am a floral designer who loves to teach DIY floral design on a budget. My goal is to make flower-arranging fun, inexpensive, and easy.
Today, I’ll be sharing how to make an easy DIY floral centerpiece from a small $4 grocery store bouquet and garden scraps. It’s easier than you think!
Grocery store flowers are a great and inexpensive way to sharpen your floral design skills. For a small centerpiece, you’ll want to buy a small mixed-flower bouquet. Do not be tempted to buy a larger bouquet! My goal is to teach you how to make a little bit go a long way. Garden scraps will help add bulk and shape to your arrangement.
Recycled sushi lid (or any disposable container you might have laying around)
Small mixed store-bought bouquet (I bought a $4 bouquet from the grocery store)
1/3 of a floral foam brick
3-4 varieties of garden scraps (1 large leaf, 1 small leaf, 1 feather leaf)
Floral shears or scissors
I like to have a variety of greens when I arrange flowers. When I teach workshops, I encourage my class to find three of the following types of garden scraps: small leaf, large leaf, and feather leaf. Having different types of greens will help add texture and shape to your arrangements.
*Pro Tip: examples of good garden scraps are Nandina (feather leaf), rhododendron (large leaf), and Boxwood (small leaf).
Step One: You will want to take 1/3 of a floral foam brick and soak it until it’s full of water. Place the floral foam into the plastic container. I typically do not tape or glue my foam to the container because I can have more surface area on the foam to design with. I like to put the “feather leaf” going East and West, the “large leaf” North and South, and the “small leaf” in between those points.
*Pro Tip: Angle all of your greens down in order to cover up your container.
Step Two: Unwrap your flowers and figure out what you are working with. Some people can figure out basic floral arranging by looking at photos while others like to follow a recipe or formula. No matter which type of a person you are, you will benefit by separating your flowers into three groups: base flower, accent flower, and filler flower.
Knowing these different types of greens and flowers will help you when you’re choosing your own flowers for an arrangement.
Base flower –large flowers such as hydrangea, cabbage, lilies, and larger mums or daisies. Base flowers are best placed at the bottom or base of the centerpiece.
Accent flower –medium-sized flowers such as a rose, iris, lisianthus, daisy, mum, or tulip. Your bouquet should have mainly accent flowers. They will be positioned all over the centerpiece.
Filler flower – small, wispy-like flowers such as caspia, goldenrod, lavender, statice, heather, wax flower, and astilbe. Filler flowers are added last. Most filler flowers have several mini-stems off of the main stem. Place the filler flowers in the small gaps between the accent flowers.
*Pro Tip: If you have only one stem of something, stick it on the top in the center of the floral foam. Make sure that you position some accent flowers at the base of the foam and some sticking out. This will help you cover your foam and create a nice shape.
*Pro Tip: If the stems on the alstroemeria blossoms are long enough you can cut them and spread them out.
For some of your accent flowers, cut the stem long – this will create a longer reach for you to work with, making your arrangement fuller and more interesting.
Place extra rose leaves next to your rose stems, for extra greenery.
I usually put the extra long-stemmed accent flowers on the East and West points.
If I have any extra leaf stems, I place them next to the original flower that it came with.
Okay friends, here’s a fun fact about me: I love flower buds. Please do not throw them away! They add great texture. I usually put them on top of the arrangement. Even if you have only one, add it in. Trust me, flower buds are adorable.
If you want to add a small gift tag to your centerpiece, simply take a wooden skewer, break it in half, poke two holes in the gift tag, and slide the skewer through.
Congrats, you did it! You made a centerpiece! I have enjoyed teaching you a little bit about flowers, garden scraps, and floral design. I hope that you’ll continue to branch out (haha, see what I did there?) and use these techniques with a different bouquet next week. Or maybe you can’t wait and want to go back to the store tomorrow…
Either way, I hope you’ll tag us @jenwoodhouse and @riverroseflowercompany so we can see your beautiful creations! Thanks for reading, friends! And if any of you are local to the Virginia/Maryland area, be sure to follow me on Instagram so you don’t miss a workshop. I’ve got a couple scheduled this month and I’d love to meet you!
Hello everyone! My name is Shelly and I blog over at 100Things2Do.ca where I share DIY, building, crafts and ways to make your house a home within a real-world budget. Creativity is my groove – whether it be repurposing, refinishing, building or decorating and each day I strive to share wins (and fails) with candor, humor and a whole lotta love. I’ve been a long-time fan of Jen’s and I will fully admit to squealing like a teenager and happy-dancing around my house when she offered me this opportunity to guest post. Thank you so much Jen – and I apologize to my family for the Mom-butt twerking.
I should start this post with the reason why:
This is my 6′ by 10′ mudroom, and it looks like this 95% of the time.
I know! I’ve just admitted that to millions of House of Wood readers – and I’m totally embarrassed – but I’m guessing there are more of you out there dealing with this situation than there are revelling in a perfectly styled and organized mudroom.
When did putting your shoes away become rocket science? You’re killing me family! One dropped pair at a time – you’re killing me!
I made that white shoe rack a couple of years ago thinking it would be enough for my family of 4 (jocks). Each year, the cleats got larger, the girls wanted/needed more pairs and we increased the number of extra-curricular sports – as happens as your kids get a bit older.
Clearly this little guy wasn’t cutting it.
Time for an upgrade, so I designed this simple, super-sized shoe rack to better fit our needs and the space.
I purchased nine 1″x 12″ rough pine boards that were 6′ long and made my cuts:
2 boards cut to 58 ¼”
7 boards cut to 55″
You will need:
pocket hole jig
approximately 45 1 ¼” pocket hole screws
I used my pocket hole jig to drill pocket holes (3) on either end of the 55″ boards, which were then attached one-by-one using 1 ¼” pocket screws, beginning with the base of your super-sized shoe rack.
The base board and the first board up from the base are attached at a 90° angle to the sides (use a speed square). I spaced mine 16″ apart to make room for ski boots, Sorels and or skates/rollerblades using Hubby’s as the largest size needed to fit.
Once the base and bottom shelf were in place, I marked the side boards up 7″ from the front and 9″ from the back; this will create a slight slope to your shelves so you can have a bit of a display. No need to measure angles or use a protractor – just draw a straight line from the 7″ back to the 9″ mark and line your shelf up with that line.
You could angle your shelves even more if you’d like, but once the slope gets too steep you’ll have to add a section of molding so your shoes don’t slip off.
Attach your first angled shelf and check for level.
(Remember: if you’re working in your garage, there may be a slight slope to the concrete for water drainage)
The rest of the shelves for your shoe rack will be placed 7″ above the previous – front and back – which will mimic the angle of the first board. Repeat with the rest of your 55″ boards until you reach the top. Your top board will be 90° to the sides to allow for storage on the top.
I went with the rough pine boards because they were less expensive than finished 1 x 12 boards. You could ask your home improvement store associate to cut your pieces from ¾” plywood if you want a less ‘rustic’ look, but please don’t build this with MDF (medium density fiberboard) as it absorbs moisture and the fibers will expand and warp unless coated thoroughly with an oil-based primer.
You’ll find that this DIY shoe rack is pretty rigid with the ¾” boards and pocket-hole screws, but if you want a little extra strength you can add reinforcing angles (small metal brackets) to the inside corners – top and bottom.
Rough pine is not easy to stain or paint, so if you choose to finish your super-sized shoe rack, try a tung or mineral oil to bring out the grain of the wood, keep it from drying out, and keep the wood fibers soft.
No one likes prickly wood. (I’d take that a lot further if this wasn’t Jen’s blog.)
I could stop right here and be happy; look at all of that gorgeous space (and cleanliness)!
Plenty of room for winter boots and/or ski boots – which will be replaced with rollerblades come Spring. Plenty of room left for coats, snow pants, skis and sports bottles.
We’ve got indoor soccer cleats, outdoor soccer cleats, water shoes and more flip flops than Fort Lauderdale at Spring break.
The top shelf is perfect for helmets, shin pads, ball gloves and/or a drying rack for wet mittens.
The shelves are angled just enough to display your shoes without them slipping off onto the floor.
Hey, did you know that alternating your shoes heel to toe will buy you an extra few inches of space on each shelf?
I can’t believe it’s almost full already!
You may have noticed that I don’t have any shoes on the new shoe rack? I have a little section in our closet that I hoard use, and no one really needs to see my vast collection of couture Crocs right?
Here’s a keeper for your Pinterest boards:
Thank you Jen for the opportunity of writing on House of Wood, and thank you readers for letting me babble on.