I was planning on writing about this worklog after a proper photoshoot but I guess it won't be happening anytime soon and I needed to post something new on my blog since I've been away for too long.
This isn't going to be a proper worklog tutorial though because the entire process is a messy series of trial and errors so it'll mostly be a series of progress photos. But I'll try to explain some of it as much as I can. Also, I'll be splitting this into two parts because if I don't, this post is going to be really long and photo-heavy.
This cosplay has been one of the most complicated project I've made so far. There are a lot of patterns, details and small parts. But it's been an enjoyable experience learning a lot of new techniques and methods.
First of all, I had a hard time trying to figure out how to construct the patterns but I eventually settled into something that I can easily work with. For her white vest, I used a basic crop top as base and worked my pattern around it.
The front pattern is overlapped with a long rectangular strap that wraps around her neck. I basically just eyeballed its positioning and once I'm satisfied with the placement, I sketched the remaining pattern around it. I tested my drafts on scrap fabric first to make sure I got the right fit.
There isn't much to change on the back piece but the shoulder strap was extended to go all the way to the front and connects to the neck strip.
how the final piece looks like spread out
I went through two test drafts before I was happy with its fit. I also added hidden snaps on the neck intersection part to keep the collar in place and not loose in shape. It also snaps securely on the back.
For the back emblem, I lightly traced a googled image into paper to use as template.
And hand-painted it with acrylic. I had to be really careful because it'll really look messy if I made a mistake.
(i did made a mistake and had to use white acrylic paint to cover it up)
Then I sewed the final details like the bias edging after.
For the inner top, I just modified a shirt that I bought from a thrift store and turned it into a tube top. I was also lucky to have in me an old, unused belt with the right buckle for that center front detail. I just sawed off the unnecessary parts and attached it to the material.
The hand pieces are also made from the same material and lined with a non-stretch fabric. The strip that goes around the wrist and middle finger are locked with snap buttons so it can easily be removed or put on.
I also bought a bunch of similar looking beads which i put together for her bracelet-looking accessory (I don't know what to call it). I forgot to take photos of that progress but it's this part:
As for her armband, I first made a a rectangle piece for the base. Although it's more trapezoidal in shape so that it fits snugly on my arm. It also has to overlap a bit so that I can attach the velcro to keep it closed. The fabric I used is a silver-colored satin with thick interfacing for a strong structure.
Next I cut the same size on rubber sheet and divided it into three length-wise. I curved the edges a bit with sandpaper to have that emphasized groove. Then I primed and painted it silver.
After drying, I assembled and glued the pieces to the base.
For the footwear, I sewed the details on the socks to avoid ruining a good pair of shoes. I still have to use it for other cosplays after all.
That's about it for the first part. The rest will be about her gun prop, chaps and a little bit of wig styling. Feel free to comment if you have any questions. I'll try to post the next part as soon as I can. Have a nice summer.
First and foremost, I am an affiliate now! If you are like me who loves reading manga, feel free to click the image below or check out the affiliate section in my side bar. It'll help me out a lot. Thank you Renta! for the opportunity.
As you can see, I've revamped my layout! It doesn't look all over the place now and the ads fit in seamlessly. I still have a lot of backlog posts to finish but I'm gradually working on it. I have a lot of tutorials and worklogs to post soon but I'm also trying to get back into writing essays and reviews.
Last year was a blur with cosplays. I went out of my way and completed five new costumes which was quite a feat considering the limited amount of resources that I have to work with.
But I did finally fulfill one of my cosplay dreams to be Bishamonten from Noragami after over two years of entertaining the idea. I am so proud of it.
This year I'll be mellowing out and lessen the crafting for a bit, settling for about 2-3 new cosplays for now, depending on my time and budget.
I'm already making progress for my Aqua and it's going quite well so far!
I also started getting hooked on Identity V. It's NetEase's first survival horror game with a gothic art style, mysterious storylines and an exciting 1 vs 4 gameplay.
I don't play much games so it's basically my only go-to on free times or when I got too fed up with crafting lol. But I am in love with their overall aesthetic, interesting backstories and fun gameplays even if they do get confusing sometimes.
Feel free to add me! My ID is 17453968, username Bianchii. I lose a lot though but I'm trying my best.
My third tentative cosplay for this year is probably one of the characters from the game. Maybe the doctor or the priestess. It's very outside of my comfort zone (yarn hair, button eyes...how do I even...?) but I'm always up for a challenge when it comes to crafting. Looking forward to what this year will bring me.
It's been long overdue but we're finally on the final part of this worklog! It wasn't easy, everything looks so complex and advance I couldn't even imagine how I'm going to go through with this but I did it and it turned out great! This project has been my favorite so far and I'm really proud of it.
The most difficult part was drafting the patterns. There was a lot going on in the entire costume and for a long time I was stuck just trying to figure out which part goes where, how to draft the patterns and what materials to use.
After three attempts, I was finally happy with my drafts.
so messy, just like my life
When transferring drafts into pattern, I used a few old patterns that are close to the structure of my draft as a guide to build my pattern from.
For Yang's jacket I used a generic bodice pattern for the overall base structure and my previous Yang patterns for the length and dart placements since they're basically the same.
just some generic bodice pattern
It's kind of hard to explain how I drafted the patterns without some visual guide but here are some video notes I took while constructing them.
(Click full screen to see better)
Note: I said right but it's for the left side of the body. It's because of the reference photos. Please make sure you always double check if you're making one yourself.
I apologize if it's a little incoherent, this was suppose to be notes for myself for when I write this worklog but I figure it's better than my nonsensical writing. I hope it still makes sense.
The back panel was simpler. I just traced one of the front panels, get its center line and eyeballed the triangular slit in the middle.
right, left and half of the back panel test pattern
I wasn't very much confident with my patterns yet so I tested them out first on a cheaper fabric. After I'm satisfied with the fit, I adjusted some darts and added them to my patterns. I used a princess seam that goes from the shoulder all the way to the bottom because it's the closest to what it looks like on the pattern.
For the sleeves, I also used the generic pattern that comes with the generic bodice pattern but since I extended 2cm from the shoulder of the armhole area, I lowered the tip of the curve by 2cm and readjusted the curve. I wasn't exactly sure if it's going to work so I did more tests and readjustments until I got the fit right. It's just eyeballing so I don't have anything much to tell on how I constructed it.
The hip capes and the belt flaps are basically just long rectangles and trapezoids respectively.
The belt flaps are asymmetrical from each other. The right side only has one while the left is made up of two and folded in half for the belt to go under it. The width should be less than half the circumference of my hips but greater than the width of the hip cape.
sleeve, half back and belt flap patterns
hip cape width measurement
The hip capes should have the same width as the bottom half of the jacket piece and length that reaches a little bit below the calf. It also has that diagonal seam detail along the center so I just cut the pattern the same way.
Once I'm done and satisfied with the patterns, it's time to transfer them to the actual fabric. I also cut another similar set for the lining. With the way the entire costume is designed, it's important to add lining since a lot of parts can be seen on both sides and we wouldn't want those extra seams and frayed edges to show. There are a lot of examples online on how to add the lining so I'm not going to elaborate on that part since it's going to be a lot of that here.
The jacket has an asymmetrical look so always make sure you're cutting on the right side and/or using the right color of fabric.
I used a separating zipper for the opening then sewed the rest of the pieces together and added the lining for a cleaner finish.
For the sleeves, I added the strip details first along the center before attaching them to the main piece.
For the cuffs on the sleeves, I used the same method as this tutorial.
Initially, I used the shoulder part of my pattern as a base guide for the shoulder detail but when I tried to attach it, it was too short. It might be because of the bulk of the layers of fabric.
So I had to redo the pattern and this time I had to use the actual jacket as a base guide for better accuracy.
I transferred the final pattern to the the fabric and added the lining.
Then I attached the piece around the shoulder area and sewed as close to edge as I can.so it blends with the rest of outfit rather than looking like another layer.
The belt flaps and hip capes are also lined (orange for the capes) and finished with a gold trim biased edge except for the top sides of the hip capes.
I also made the hip capes detachable just like in the series and added a few snap buttons so the cape can attach itself to the inner side of the jacket.
To get that uneven layer look on the folded belt flap, I only have to change the fold to a perpendicular direction and adjusted a bit so the back is longer then ran a few hand stitches on the corner to keep in place.
butt check lol
For the neck piece, I used a long strip of paper around my neck to measure how big the circumference I should go and how high along the neck it should be.
Then I made three strips from the final pattern.
The brown strip is interfaced and extended slightly to accommodate the Velcro for the opening. The orange strip is a tube that can be inserted (and removed if it's out for washing) with a 2mm thick craft foam for that added volume.
I also added snaps so that I can attach them together to avoid them jostling against each other when worn. The orange piece is placed slightly higher so that it peeks enough just right above the brown piece.
The last strip which I'll be calling a mini belt is about 1/3 the width (or just enough to fit whatever buckle you have) and a few cm longer than the rest of the strips. I added some sort of belt loops around the brown strip for the mini belt to go through. To keep it in place, I sewed the area near the buckle to the brown strip.
And finally to keep the neck piece poised in place even if I move around a lot, I sewed some strips on the jacket (keeping the stitches on the lining so that it wouldn't be visible on the outer side) with snaps on the other end that connects to the snaps on the inner brown piece.
And lastly, some button details for the jacket, belt and belt flaps and the outfit is done! I just bought a plain orange sports bra for the inner top and a pair of fitted black pants. I also decided to forgo those cuff thingies on her wrist (what do you call those?) since I'm wearing a full Ember Celica but I might make one in the future.
ta-da! I love how sturdy the neck piece looks
Might schedule a photoshoot with a friend as soon as I get a better wig but here's a little preview of the entire cosplay worn for the meantime:
Humans have always been been drawn to the occult. Whether out of fear or fascination, it has become an integral part of our culture. What does it feels like to walk among the creatures of the night?
World of Darkness is a fictional setting for a supernatural horror themed role-playing game that captured millions of audiences worldwide because of its unique take on the classic tabletop role-playing game. World of Darkness: The Documentary is an 88-minute film that showcases the rise and fall of one of the most popular role-playing game that ever graced the tabletop community.
The film starts off by giving us a glimpse of how the universe within the World of Darkness works. The community, its people and the lore that ties them all together. It's not just a game, there is also an art in the way they tell their story.
The documentary further explores what goes on beyond the game. We see how it all began, their inspirations and how it influenced and shaped aspects of our pop culture. From exclusive insights of the original creators and founders as well as inputs of long-time fans and players of the games to glamorous LARP events, elaborate storytelling and gorgeous artworks that inspired various books and films. No wonder it left such a huge impact even up to this day.
Aside from the beauty and excitement, they also discussed the nitty gritty and struggles the creators had to go through in order to make the games a continuous success. The reduction of sales, legal battles, explosion of vampires, werewolves and the likes in media and generally just keeping up with the changing times.
Overall it's an interesting journey to follow along. The narrative is clear and straight to the point with no dull moments. The documentary focuses more on the stories that revolve around the game and its message rather than the game itself so there won't be much in-game action. I am no expert when it comes to RPGs but coming from someone who has an avid fascination with the creatures of the night and whose creative influences comes from the gothic subculture, the thrill of having to live out your fantasy is what makes the World of Darkness truly great.
I'm back again with another boot cover DIY tutorial and this has been my favorite so far out of all the boot covers I've made because I've incorporated a lot of stuff I learned from my previous boot covers and the result exceeded my expectations. There were a couple of fitting problems and wayward stitches along the way but that was just me being sloppy due to con crunch lol.
So, yeah. This is part two of my Yang Xiao Long post-timeskip worklog series.
I basically just used two colors of non-stretch fabric here. Leather types would probably be well-suited for this and you wouldn't need to interface but my sewing machine wouldn't be able to handle it so I had to improvise. Work with whatever is easier for you.
Don't forget to have enough to include the lining
Interfacing (if you're using a normal fabric like i do)
2 Metal zippers
For the zipper detail on the front... or if you can find exactly huge ones like those from the reference.
2 hidden zippers (can at least reach from ankle to calf length)
At least 1" in radius
A pair of heeled, close-toed shoe for the base
I find making boot covers on a pair of high-heeled shoes easier because of the wider shin-feet angle
To sketch out the patterns, first get the basic boot structure by using the good-ol' cling wrap-tape method to get your feet mold.
Wear the base shoe first before covering the entire required area (including the bottom of the shoe) with cling wrap and masking tape.
Leave the heels area open.
The pattern will be divided into three major parts: The bottom (the shoe sole shape), the left half and the right half. Using the main reference as guide, sketch the extra pattern lines. Make sure the parts are labeled to avoid confusion.
(It's easier if you have a friend to help you with this.)
Once that is done, cut the pieces out and trace them on pattern paper.
Since the boots isn't exactly suppose to be form-fitting, I've also added about an extra quarter inch allowance (different from the seam allowance) on each side of the side patterns. But on the toe side, it tapers down to meet the pointed corner because that part connects to the bottom pattern piece.
Transfer the final patterns to the main fabric. Add seam allowance before cutting. Make sure you take note which is for the left and for the right.
Sew the pieces together and topstitch to flatten the seams. Leave the back part open for now.
Do the same thing for the lining.
For the front zipper detail, cut away a narrow strip about an eighth of an inch wide by 4-5 inches long from the upper front center of the main piece. Fold the raw edges inward and install the zipper.
(I also carefully cut a really small notch on each corner so that it can be folded inwards more easily. Be careful of fraying though, the gap might unnecessarily widen)
Next, transfer the patterns on the interfacing as well but don't add any seam allowance.
Sew the interfacing on the lining that's facing the wrong side of the main piece so that it will be sandwiched in between.
it looks wonky for now
Sew the main piece and the lining together.
First I sew the top side together with right sides facing each other then flipped them inside out. Once I properly aligned the two pieces together, I ran a topstitch all around the edge so that the pieces to keep it in place.
should look something like this now
Do the same thing for the bottom piece. The interfacing should be sandwiched between the lining and the main piece.
Next, sew the back piece close and attach the hidden zipper. It should be opening from the bottom.
Finally with the bootcover inside out, attach the bottom piece. Cut away excessive fabric as much as you can to avoid bunching but make sure you leave enough seam allowance to keep fraying hems away from ruining your stitches. You can use an overlock machine or a zigzag stitch for a cleaner finish.
Next is the detail on the toe front which looks like a type of metal toe guard but I'll be using fabric on this one as well since it's easier to put together pieces of the same material. For this, I'll be using the reverse side of a gold-colored satin fabric. It's a technique I learned from my old dressmaker if you just want a cheaper fabric with a soft sheen that doesn't look ugly on cameras.
Haven't had the chance to take photos of the progress since I was in a crunch but basically I used the bootcover pattern as guide to sketch the detail.
Get your fabric, fold it in two and trace the pattern on top of it. Add seam allowance and cut. Sew around the marked edge but leave one of the shorter side open so that you can turn it right side out after. Make sure you cut small notches on the corners to avoid bulking in that area. Turn the entire thing right side out and insert an interfacing for extra structure. Fold the opening's seam allowance inwards and sew it shut.
For its other half, do the exact same thing but make sure the pattern is flipped horizontally.
And finally, repeat the same process for the other half of the pair.
For the ankle strap piece, measure the ankle area circumference first and divide by two. Extend the length by at least 3cm each on both sides.
Make the straps by folding the fabric in half with the right side inwards and sewing about 3cm away from the folded edge. Once you're done, open up and flatten the seams with flat iron before turning it right side out. Add interfacing inside for structure. You'll be needing about four of this.
Attach the strips on the rings and sew. Make sure you can slip your foot in and out of it so it doesn't get on the way while wearing the bootcover.
Next make those little straps that goes under the heels that will keep the rings in place. For this part I just folded the required length of bias tape in half lengthwise and sewed in place.
For the set of straps to be removable, sew one end on the ring (facing the open space) and add a pair of snaps to the other (facing the other foot).
forgive my crude illustration lol
That's about it. It's tedious but fairly easy once you figure everything out.
I hope I've explained the process properly but feel free to comment any questions regarding the tutorial and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. :)
Taking a little bit of detour from my DIY tutorials series because my scheduling has already been out of whack anyway so might as well write some cosplay life update while I still have a little bit of that post-con high/hangover.
After years of planning and clearing most conflicts out of the way, my friend and I have finally managed to schedule another out-of-town convention trip like we used to do two years ago. This time, we decided to attend AsiaPOP Comicon Manila 2018 Day 2.
Unfortunately, even with months of planning, some things just doesn't go the way we want it to.
Just a few days before our scheduled trip, my friend Chloe who's always with me on these trips had to bail out at the last minute because her work leave was rejected due to an important event happening right on the same day where her presence is required. We tried to come up with other ways that she can get out of that situation but it was a futile attempt, the job had to come first and we can't argue with that.
So I was left to travel alone to a city I barely know.
It was also a Friday so Leddy, the friend we're visiting in Manila who usually fetches us from the airport, couldn't get out of work do it.
My anxiety levels was thrown out of whack.
On the brighter side, I had another friend Dan who's also coming to Manila to join us for APCC. His flight is hours later than mine though so I had to wait at the airport for hours where I constantly keep dozing off because I haven't had any decent sleep for a week.
stuck in the charging station
After a few delays, we finally met up. We made a quick stop to a service center to get his laptop repaired and then had lunch where I OD-ed myself in caffeine before checking in at the hotel where we'll be staying for the entire weekend
10/10 would probably book here again next year
Friday was basically just a whirlwind of adventure. we had a lot of dinner plans but then it started raining plus the after-work rush hour traffic, we couldn't get any cab to take us to our destination. We had no choice but to walk. We would have cancelled the plans but the person we're meeting up was already on the venue. Leddy couldn't make it either because she was a little bit farther and very stuck in traffic.
Originally there were suppose to be six of us but unforeseen circumstances happened and we're cut down to half. We just ended up eating at the very first available fast-food restaurant we saw. Still, it was nice catching up, just randomly talking about stuff over a meal.
It was really late when we got back in the hotel and I still have some last-minute details to attach to my costume.
But I am so tired and done at this point I just ended up gluing the rest with fabric glue.
Finally, my friend got out of traffic and arrived at the hotel a few minutes later. She's going to be staying over since Chloe couldn't make it and there's an extra space.
And we can go to the event together the following day.
It took us quite a while to get to the event because of the traffic but it gave me an opportunity to catch some snooze time that I actually feel refreshed by the time we arrived at the convention hall a little bit past noon.
We also had another friend, Nina, coming with us, but she's also still stuck in traffic and will arrive a little later. Thankfully, the ticket line wasn't long so we didn't wait much.
After settling our tickets and getting our passes, we went out and saw this amazing BnHA cosplay gathering.
Every time a new cosplayer joins the group, they would clap & cheer. It was such an amazing experience just being there and seeing all of it happen.
We spotted him on the escalator going up to where the group gathering are just as we are going down. A few minutes later we heard very loud cheering from the group above. It was really exhilarating and heart-warming.
While waiting for Nina, we would spend a lot of time fooling around the upper floor or roaming the artist's alley for some merch and prints.
And then we saw some cosplayers waving this flag around and asked if we can borrow it.
Thank you so much for letting is have a little bit of moment with the flag. It was such an awesome moment for me.
someday I'm gonna get one of these babies once I save enough
Spotted these amazing cosplayers cosplaying my Garisson babies form Voltron
Then we finally get to meet up with Nina! She was always busy with work every time we drop by Manila so we couldn't see her even if we wanted to but that's not the case now and I'm so happy we finally have the chance to hang out.
The rest of the day was spent looking around the Netflix hall which was really fun because their exhibits are cool and interactive.
lol I blend really well
I really love the Stranger Things booth because we get to draw some doodles and then they'll post it on the walls the same way they do in the series!
(You can actually hear Will speak on the phone)
\m/ Aggretsuko!!! \m/
I still have yet to watch the series but based on the clips I've seen, i think it's pretty awesome. Better get a pic with her while I still can hohoo~
There was also Riverdale but I didn't get to explore much because it was really crowded and I didn't care much because I don't really feel like seeing the show.
Then there was this dude who is giving away stuff like baller bands and paper bags for upcoming series promotions but he also gives away free mugs when he likes your cosplay and I got one!
After a while, we decided to get back to the upper floor where there are lesser people so that we can sit down and relax after an afternoon of walking.
Some time later, the weather outside started getting bad so we were contemplating going back early or else we will risk getting stranded for hours hailing a cab. But since some of us were so tired, we decided to stay a little bit longer for more rest time while the others went back to the artist's alley to buy more merch.
Best decision we've made so far.
A few moments later, these fellas randomly stormed in and started play-fighting with lightsabers. Everyone just stopped whatever they were doing and watched. It was the second highlight of my day, right next to the BnHA group cosplay meetup.
When the T-rex group started to disperse, we decided it's also about time we take our leave and grab some dinner before going home.
Fortunately, it didn't take us long to get a cab but the trip back to the hotel still took a while so I fell asleep in the cab again.
By the time we got back to the hotel, I was sporting a mini headache so I decided to just chill in the room and clean myself up while my friends went out for some beers.
Most of my pocket money was spent on cabs and pumping my blood stream with caffeine so I didn't buy much. Just a few prints and stickers from my current fandom, a bookmark, a smol Shiro pin and some cat stickers. The mug, baller band, poster and paper bag are the free stuff I got from the Netflix hall!
I had a really great time and I feel like attending again next year.
last photo before parting ways with leddy :(
We had an early morning flight the next day so I really should be turning in early but the packing and cleaning took way too much time and I ended up getting barely enough hours of sleep.
I basically just slept the entire plane ride back to my city.
Despite the short amount of time, we had a great time just being nerds together and catching up on life over fast-food dinners.
This is my first time making a prosthetic type of prop in cosplay so the entire process is a little bit of a trial and error for me. There are a lot of things I could have changed to make it better but I am still very pleased with how it turned out.
This will be the start of my Yang Xiao Long Post-Timeskip cosplay worklog series. I'll be posting the entire costume worklog soon.
2mm Rubber Sheet/Craft foam (we mostly call it rubber sheets here so I'm going with that term)
Primer (I used wood glue mixed with water in 1:1/8 glue-water ratio)
Spray Paint (or whatever you prefer)
Metallic Gray (I know I used black here which was a mistake. I didn't double check my references when I went buying for materials)
0.5 cm elastic garter
Using the reference, I tried sketching out the arm prosthetic first. By drawing it, I'd be able to understand the shapes that makes up the entire thing and makes it easier for me to design the patterns.
Starting first with the arm area, I came up with four main patterns:
Pattern A - upper arm (I didn't revise the sketch here but the upper part of this pattern should be pointed)
Pattern B - elbow
Pattern C - Lower arm outer plate (the yellow part)
Pattern D - Lower arm inner plate (the metallic gray part)
Starting with the lower arm piece, I used the cling wrap - tape method to get the base shape of my arm. To those who are not familiar with this technique, you first wrap a body part you wanted to pattern from with cling wrap and then cover it with duct tape. This will serve as a base where you can draw patterns that conforms to your size. (for a better picture)
I used masking tape here and although it still works, duct tape would probably be a better material for cover as the former loses its stickiness when you move around a lot.
Once I covered my entire arm, I divided the piece into two sides: left and right by drawing a line on the half of the top and another on the half of the bottom side.
I hope I made a clear picture
Then I carefully cut on one of the lines to dislodge the pattern off my arm and sealed the opening again with more masking tape and redraw the line.
Now I have a base to sketch my pattern.
img5: half of the outer plate pattern
Since the pattern pieces on the arm is symmetrical, I only need to draw one half of the pattern and just mirror the other side when I transfer it on paper. On one side, I'll be drawing the outer plate pattern and the inner plate pattern for the other side.
I didn't cut the base pattern in half yet before I'm done with the pattern sketch because I wanted to use each side as a reference to each other.
The dip in pattern D should be deeper than Pattern C. Pattern D covers the entire arm while pattern C is just a tad bit wider than half of pattern D's width.
img7: half of the inner plate pattern The third piece(largest cut) should be the fold center once you transfer it on paper
Pattern D is divided into five parts to accommodate the curve of the arm. But it depends on how many parts you want. The more parts, the more it will conform to your arm shape.
I also drew marks on the cutting line as a guide when I glue them together so the parts will connect in the right places.
Once I'm satisfied with my patterns, I traced the drafts on pattern paper, and labeled them properly to avoid confusion. I also cleaned the curved edges with a french curve.
Then I transferred the final pattern to the 2mm rubber sheets and again making sure the pieces are marked properly including the guide lines on the edge for gluing.
I lost my progress a bit in this part because I forgot and accidentally closed the opening for the inner plate and my hand couldn't get through. I tried to cut a notch on the narrower opening but it just wouldn't work without making the notch really big and obvious so I had to redo the entire thing.
my hand still couldn't get through with a notch as wide as this
The lower arm pieces are primed and painted separately first and then added in the velcros before gluing the outer plate to the inner plate.
First of all, my mistake here is that I should have done the gloves first so that I can pattern the hand pieces over it. The pieces fit perfectly on my naked fingers but over the gloves it was too tight and cutting off circulation. With so many pieces, it was exhausting to start all over again so I carefully used flame heat (because I'm too poor for a heat gun lol) to stretch the pieces a little bit wider. It was still a really tight fit but at least my fingers can breath properly now.
With that out of the way, I made the patterns for my hand the same way: with cling wrap and masking tape. For this I used my left hand instead of the right because it was easier, I just have to flip the pattern drafts later.
I didn't cover my entire hand, I used the reference as guide to only cover the parts that are needed.
Then I sketched the pattern with a marker. I marked the seams and lines where to cut and made sure the parts are properly labeled in order.
While drawing the patterns, I also keep on flexing my fingers every once in a while to make sure I didn't cover the joints area so that I can still have my finger movements when I put the finished product on.
After that is done, I carefully cut the pieces off my hand and transferred the patterns on paper.
don't forget to flip the final pattern if you used your left hand as base
For the fingertip-dome part(I don't know how to call it), it took me quite a while to figure out how I'm going to shape the dome. In the end I decided to just cut the base piece in half sideways and marked three notches (one on top and one for each side) on the curved edge of both sides (see img15 below).
After that is done, I traced the sample on paper. Then from the corner point of the notches, extend the line until the flat edge. These will be my cutting lines.
img15: I cleaned up the curved edges with a french curve
Each side consists of four pattern pieces so one fingertip would have eight in total.
Make sure each piece was labeled every pattern transfer
Then I cut the pattern out and transferred them to rubber sheets. It was a very tedious process but it's the best with what I got. lol.
I used superglue to connect the pieces together. I didn't exactly have to patience to wait with contact cement considering the amount of parts I had to deal with.
The dome piece was a little tough to put together but a little heat helped me make it pliant and easy to work on.
img19: All the dome pieces
For the palm area, the piece will cover both the palm and the back hand. There are two pieces glued together on the sides except the area below the thumb hole part(see img19). It needs to be open so that my hand can slide in and out easily. I used velcro the same way I did with the lower arm piece to keep it closed.
I cleaned the seams with sealant/filler and sandpaper to smooth the surface out.
test with gloves on
I forgot to take progress photos on this part but for the raised details on the back hand and lower arm, I just made a copy of the base pattern and drew the inner pattern on it so that i have a reference on size and placement. Then I transferred the final pattern to rubber sheet.
Once the details are glued in place, I rounded out the straight edges a little bit with sandpaper for a smoother finish.
Elbow & upper arm piece
For the elbow and upper arm piece, I also used the cling wrap method. I slightly bent my arm so I can use the curve of my elbow as base and extended the coverage until the upper arm area.
I used the lower arm piece as reference to make sure the elbow piece fits nicely within its wedge and marked its position so that I have a guide to sketch my pattern.
Then I sketch the the elbow and the upper arm patterns simultaneously because they have to match in size and placement.
To form the dome-ish shape of the elbow piece, I divided the pattern into four parts so that I can lay the pieces flat for tracing and then marked the edges where the parts would meet.
Next I made two patterns for the upper arm part. One is for the main pattern, the second one the template guide for the inner yellow area.
Both ends will be glued together to form a cylinder.
Priming & painting
After the structure are done, I primed everything in three layers of wood glue and painted accordingly.
Then I added the final details after the paint is completely dried.
Next I connected the pieces using 0.5cm black elastic garter and super glue. I didn't want to permanently put all the pieces together as one because I wanted it collapsible for easy storage/packing so I decided to put them into groups.
First, the finger pieces are connected with elastic on the inner palm part. Since I'm wearing black gloves underneath, the elastic will camouflage perfectly and can be barely seen.
I've also connected the elbow and the lower arm piece with two strips of elastic.