With the new Perpetual Doppel Chronograph, Maria and Richard Habring — Habring2 refers to the couple — are adding their most complicated timepiece to date.
For the small independent Austrian brand, this is certainly an excellent way to celebrate its 15th anniversary.
The new Perpetual Doppel Chronograph comes in a round 43 mm x 12 mm stainless steel case housing the Swiss/Austrian manual-wind Habring2 caliber A11P beating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) with a power reserve of 45 hours. The renowned Habring2 split-seconds chronograph is here integrated by a Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar module.
This is the latest of a series of in-house calibres built on the base of the hand-wound A11 movement (A for Austria and 11 for 2011 when development started) . This modular movement, the first to be developed in Austria, was launched in 2014 (you can read about it here).
Featuring fine adjustment via tangential screw and an amagnetic escapement with a Carl Haas balance spring offering chronometer quality, the new A11P movement is meticulously refined by hand with polished bevels, decorative grinding, and Perlage. Functions are: hours, minutes, day, date, month, leap year and moonphase, monopusher split seconds chronograph with 30 minute counter at 12 o'clock.
The domed AR-coated sapphire crystal protects a silver galvanized metal dial with red-gilded Arabic numbers. The red-gilded hands are integrated by hands in thermally blued steel for the stop function.
Thanks to the double sealed stainless steel crown, the watch is water resistant to 30 meters / 100 feet.
The price of the Habring2 Perpetual Doppel Chronograph is Euro 21,500. habring2.com
In 1801 Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon, a sophisticated device designed to enhance the precision of a timepiece. By turning the entire oscillation and escapement system on its axis once a minute, the ingenious construction could compensate the gravitational forces affecting the rate accuracy.
In order to see a significant improvement to this invention we had to wait more than a century when Alfred Helwig, instructor at the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte, designed the first flying tourbillon in 1920. Rather than being supported by a bridge on the dial side and a bridge on the movement side, the flying tourbillon is cantilevered, i.e. is only secured to the plate on one side so offering an unobstructed view of the mechanism on the other side.
With the goal to further improve Alfred Helwig’s invention, German watchmaker Glashütte Original has succeeded for the first time in combining a flying tourbillon with a second-stop mechanism, zero reset and minute detent, allowing the time to be set with greater precision.
The first edition of the new Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon is a Limited Edition of only 25 pieces crafted from platinum and certified as a chronometer.
Although in modern wristwatches the tourbillon is generally implemented to demonstrate the watchmaking expertise of a brand, Glashütte Original’s main goal in developing this model was the achievement of the highest possible precision, its original purpose.
The combination of second-stop mechanism, zero reset and minute detent makes it possible to synchronize minute and second hands, thus allowing the time to be set with great precision: in fact, when the crown is pulled, the tourbillon’s rotating cage stops instantly and, with it, also the second hand that is mounted on it. This way, the watch can be easily synchronized with a reference time signal.
Glashütte Original has applied for two patents on the complex construction of its solution.
The pulling of the crown triggers a vertical clutch that locks the tourbillon cage, and with it the balance, in its current position. If the crown is then pulled out further and held in position, the second hand advances clockwise to zero, and the minute hand advances to the next full index.
In the process, a rotational damper ensures a smooth movement. Now the crown can be released and – while the small second remains at zero – the time can be set precisely to the minute while the crown is still pulled out. At the desired point in time the crown is pressed back again, which releases the seconds hand, thus ensuring that minutes and seconds are synchronised perfectly.
The high rate precision of the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon Limited Edition has been certified as a chronometer by the German Calibration Service in Glashütte, an independent testing institute. The watch undergoes 15 days of testing in five different positions and at three different temperatures.
Beating at a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour with a power reserve of 70 hours, the hand-wound calibre 58-05 also features a silicon balance spring for protection against magnetic fields and changes in temperature.
Housed in the 42 mm platinum case, the movement is decorated using various finishing techniques, including hand engravings and the classic Glashütte stripes.
On the upper edge of the dial, at 12 o’clock, the mirrored upper ring displays the inscription "Chronometer Tourbillon", engraved back-to-front on the dial fastener.
Completed by a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with a fold fastener in platinum, the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon Limited Edition (ref. 1-58-05-01-03-30) has a price of Euro 150,000. glashuette-original.com
Taking its name from the Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet who invented the first version of the automatic self-winding movement in 1777, the Bienne-based watchmaker expanded its Weekend collection with a new GMT model.
Featuring a useful dual time function, the Perrelet Weekend GMT comes in an ideally sized 39 mm x 9.56 mm stainless steel case guaranteeing water resistance to 50 metres / 165 feet.
The slim bezel frames a sober silver-toned sunray dial which offers excellent legibility of the GMT 24-hour function thanks to the central hand with a triangular red tip on the inner polished ring with Arabic numerals. A small date display at 3 o’clock completes the indications. The sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective treatment.
All the functions, including the GMT indication, can be intuitively adjusted using the single crown.
The new model is powered by the self-winding Perrelet P-401 calibre which beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of 42 hours. The movement and its full oscillating mass are visible through the transparent case back.
Matched to a black leather strap secured to the wrist by a pin buckle with the brand logo, the Perrelet Weekend GMT has a price of Swiss Francs 1,680. A stainless steel bracelet option is also available. perrelet.com
Last May, American adventurer Victor Vescovo established the new world record for the deepest dive achieving a depth of 10,928 meters / 35,853 feet.
During a 12-hour mission, he successfully piloted his submersible Limiting Factor to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, the deepest point on planet Earth and the first of five manned expeditions to reach the deepest point in each of the five oceans.
Along for the ride - and performing perfectly at depth - was Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional.
In order to create a timepiece suitable for The Five Deeps Expedition, Omega introduced new technologies that could be adapted to dive watch manufacturing in the future.
To withstand the exceptional pressures and loads on the watchcase, Omega’s Ultra Deep was subjected to extensive finite element analysis simulations with the goal to limit the thickness of the timepiece as much as possible without sacrificing its resistance. The result was remarkable as the watch is only 28 mm thick.
The bezel body, casebody, caseback and crown of the watch were machined cutoffs from the grade 5 titanium hull of the Limiting Factor submersible.
Similar to the viewport assembly on a submersible, the sapphire-to-case assembly on a full ocean depth watch was an area of concern. To spread the stress distribution, Omega took inspiration from the loadbearing conical design of the Limiting Factor's viewports, engineered to minimise pressure on the inside edges of the cone. Liquidmetal was used to ensure a firm yet flexible sapphire-to-casebody assembly. This innovative patent-pending hot form bonding made it possible to avoid the use of polymer seals and to reduce the sapphire’s thickness.
Fully integrated into the titanium casebody, the lugs of the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional are left open to lower the risk of exceeding material limitations at full ocean depth, as both the watch and the strap can be subjected to high traction loads. They are called “Manta” lugs due to their distinctive look.
The expedition logo is located at the center of the caseback inside concentric circles evoking the Multi Beam sonar technology. Relevant information including the model, reference number, materials, DNV-GL certification, and the words - tested 15,000m / 49,212ft - are all laser-engraved.
Three Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep timepieces made the dive. Two attached to the submersible’s robotic arm, another to a Lander. Omega’s choice of strap material drew on the brand’s experience in space. The combination of polyamide strap and Velcro closure is closely associated with the straps used during Apollo missions.
All of the watches were pressure tested at Triton Sub’s facility in Barcelona. The chosen maximum pressure is linked with tolerances required in the Mariana Trench, but to be extra sure and to comply with dive watch standards, OMEGA insisted on adding a 25% safety margin, which meant the watches had to perform perfectly at an astonishing 1,500 bars / 15,000 meters.
Post-dive, all watches were put through the rigorous tests over 10 days set by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS). Even after their extreme underwater journey, each watch achieved Master Chronometer certification. omegawatches.com
As our readers know, we greatly appreciate the MeisterSinger timepieces because they offer excellent quality combined to a distinctive look. Without spending a fortune, you get robust and reliable wristwatches with great character.
This is especially true for the MeisterSinger Metris Bronze. If you like bronze, this model could be a worthy addition to your collection.
For our hands-on experience, we tested a model that had been previously worn for at least three months thus having started to develop the typical patina. This is a thin layer that variously forms on the surface of bronze as the consequence of an oxidization process. Patina development depends on how the watch is worn by its owner, making each piece somehow unique. While providing a covering that protects from corrosion and weathering, a natural patina is appreciated by watch enthusiasts and collectors because it accentuates the vintage appeal of the timepiece.
Like most models produced by the German watchmaker, the Metris is a single hand watch. Reading the time is easy and even fun once you get accustomed to the concept of a single hand sweeping over the 12 hours divided by 144 markers, each representing 5 minutes.
The Metris Bronze comes in a 38 mm case which offers excellent water resistance (up to 20 bar: 200 metres / 660 feet). We particularly liked its design with conical flanks and crown protector for enhanced sturdiness. The bronze crown is adorned with an embossed MeisterSinger logo - the musical notation for a pause.
Ideally sized for most wrists, the case is matched to a beautiful hand-sewn calfskin straps in dark brown with a bronze buckle. The solid case back is made of stainless steel and secured by six screws.
The thin bezel frames a domed sapphire glass which protects the dark blue dial where the Super-LumiNova coated indexes and needle-hand stand out very clearly for perfect legibility in any light conditions. The red accents add a nice touch to the dial while enhancing the sportiness of the model. The crystal is supplemented by a round, magnified date window at 6 o’clock.
This model is powered by the robust and reliable Swiss automatic ETA 2824-2 movement (or Sellita SW 2001-1) beating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offering a 38-hour power reserve.
The MeisterSinger Metris Bronze (ref. ME917BR) has a price of Euro 1,990 which makes this timepiece very appealing to anyone considering to buy a bronze model or simply looking for a sporty watch with character. meistersinger.com
Zodiac recently released a new Super Sea Wolf 53 Compression model characterized by a vivid blue dial with red accents.
The new model comes in a 40 mm x 13 mm satin-brushed stainless steel case with a uni-directional mineral crystal topring. Protected by a sapphire crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating, the dial is enhanced by C3 Super-LumiNova-coated hands and indexes for excellent readability.
The movement of choice is the STP (Swiss Technology Production) 3-13 automatic movement with date at 3 o’clock, stop seconds and swan neck system. Protected by a solid case back decorated with the Zodiac logo and beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, this anti-shock movement offers 44 hours of power reserve.
Water resistant to 200 metres / 660 feet, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 53 Compression ZO9275 is matched to a black rubber strap and has a price of US$ 1,095. zodiacwatches.com
Breitling celebrates its links to the world of motorcycling and surfing with a new Limited Edition of its Premier B01 chronograph.
Presented in two versions, in stainless steel and in red gold, the new Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Wheels and Waves Limited Edition takes its name from the world’s leading motorcycle, surfing, and skateboarding festival that each year, since June 2012, attracts visitors from all over the world to the town of Biarritz, France.
The stainless steel version will be limited to 500 pieces while only 100 watches in red gold will be produced.
The 42 mm x 13.65 mm cases in both metals feature an engraved plate with a Breitling SPECIAL inscription on the left side.
The new Wheels and Waves editions are characterized by an anthracite dial with golden hour markers, hour and minute hands, and a red central seconds hand. The dial also features a black tachymeter scale on a white inner bezel, with a red tachymeter inscription.
The two contrasting black subdials (a chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock) are typical of Breitling's models powered by the flagship Manufacture Caliber 01, a self-winding movement certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
Visible through a transparent caseback, this movement beats at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vph) and offers a power reserve of about 70 hours.
Presented on a brown nubuck leather strap with a tang type buckle and water resistant to 100 meters / 330 feet, the Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Wheels and Waves Limited Edition has a price of Swiss Francs 7,700 in stainless steel (ref. AB0118A31B1X1) or Swiss Francs 22,500 in red gold (ref. RB0118A31B1X1). The steel model is also available with a folding clasp (ref. AB0118A31B1X2) at the price of Swiss Francs 8,000. breitling.com
Dedicated to tennis fans, the new Rado Hyperchrome Tennis Automatic Chronograph is characterized by a green dial that brings to mind a grass court, similar to the ones that can be seen at the Wimbledon Championships.
Readability is excellent thanks to the luminous hands and markers and the anti-reflective coating on both sides of the curved sapphire crystal. The large contrasting counters at 3 and 6 o'clock display the continuous seconds and the chronograph minutes respectively while the smaller counter at 6 o'clock measures the chronograph hours.
The 45 mm case is crafted from a single piece of high-tech ceramic with contrasting stainless steel elements like the crown and the pushers.
It is matched to a high-tech ceramic and Ceramos (a mix of 90% high-tech ceramic and 10% metal alloy) bracelet with steel deployant.
The movement is the Swiss automatic ETA caliber 2894-2 with 37 jewels, 28,800 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of 42 hours.
Water resistant to 100 meters / 330 feet, the Rado Hyperchrome Tennis Automatic Chronograph (ref. 01.650.0022.3.031) is a limited edition of 999 pieces and has a price of Euro 4,750 / US$ 4,750. rado.com
Launched in 2014 to celebrate the 175th anniversary of the brand, the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch in regular production is now available in a new exclusive edition in white gold with two blue opaline dials, one that focuses on the time and the sonnerie, the other dedicated to the full instantaneous perpetual calendar.
Adorned with a hand-guilloched hobnail pattern, the 47.7 mm x 16.07 mm case of the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-010 is notable for its patented reversing mechanism enabling the watch to be worn with either dial on view.
It accommodates four spring barrels, two of them double reserved for the strikework and minute repeater mechanisms, and a total of not less than 20 complications:
1 Grande Sonnerie 2 Petite Sonnerie 3 Minute repeater 4 Strikework mode display: Silence/Grand Sonnerie/Petite Sonnerie (SGP) 5 Alarm with time strike 6 Date repeater 7 Movement power-reserve indicator 8 Strikework power-reserve indicator 9 Strikework isolator display 10 Second time zone 11 Second time zone day/night indicator 12 Instantaneous perpetual calendar 13 Day-of-week display 14 Month display 15 Date display (on both dials) 16 Leap year cycle 17 Four-digit year display 18 24-hour and minute subdial 19 Moon phase 20 Crown position indicator (RAH)
When the crown of the watch points to the right, the owner sees the dial that apart from local time also indicates the time in a second time zone together with a day/night indication. The same dial features the power-reserve indicators for the movement and strikework barrels, the position of the winding crown (winding, alarm setting, hand setting), the selection of the strikework mode (Grande Sonnerie, Petite Sonnerie, or Silence) as well as a bell-shaped aperture for the alarm ON/OFF display and a small round window for the strikework isolator (disabled/enabled) display.
The dial of the calendar face features four subdials with analog displays grouped around the gold-framed four-digit year display in the middle. The month is indicated at 3 o'clock, the date and leap-year cycle at 6 o'clock and the day of the week at 9 o'clock. The time of day appears at 12 o'clock on the 24-hour and 60-minute sundial.
The current time and the perpetual instantaneous date - the most frequently consulted information - are displayed on both dials.
Between the two 18K gold dials beats the 2.5 Hz (25,200 vph) caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM hand-wound movement comprising 1,366 parts. The movement has a power-reserve of 72 hours while the autonomy of the strikework is 30 hours.
The new Ref. 6300G-010 with blue dials replaces the previous version in white gold with black and white dials. It is accompanied by white-gold cuff links with blue opaline centers, decorated with a hand- guilloched hobnail pattern. The case is humidity and dust protected but not water resistant.
Matched to a shiny navy blue alligator leather strap with square scales secured to the wrist by a fold-over clasp, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-010 has a price of Swiss Francs 2,260,000. patek.com
First launched by Omega in 1949, the Trésor line combines style and technical excellence for the refined gentleman.
We highlight here two new models in the collection. The first comes in a 40 mm stainless steel case with a polished finish.
A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the domed blue dial characterized by a brass-stamped pattern and enhanced by polished hands and domed indexes, all in 18K white gold.
This model is powered by the Calibre 8910, a hand-wound movement with Co-Axial escapement beating at a frequency of 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph) with a power reserve of 72 hours. Certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS (Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology) and resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss, the movement is equipped with a free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring and embellished by rhodium plated finish with Geneva waves in arabesque.
Presented on a blue leather strap, the Omega De Ville Tresor ref. 422.214.171.124.03.001 has a price of Euro 6,100 / US$ 6,500.
The second model is crafted from Sedna gold (a rose gold alloy which blends gold, palladium and copper) and features a domed grey dial made from enamel using the “Grand Feu” technique, with polished hands and domed indexes in Sedna gold. The logo and wording on the dial are enamel prints achieved through a “Petit Feu” technique.
With the “Grand Feu” decorative technique, patterns are not painted but created by applying oxides to the dial which is then fired at high temperatures until the patterns appear.
This model is driven by the Omega Master Co-Axial Calibre 8929, a variation of the 8910 hand-wound movement featuring a special luxury finish with a Sedna gold balance bridge.
Matched to a grey leather strap, the Omega De Ville Tresor ref. 4126.96.36.199.06.001 has a price of Euro 14,000 / US$ 15,000.
The new Omega De Ville Trésor timepieces are water resistant to 30 metres / 100 feet. omegawatches.com