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I can't be the only one. I know how to do flat odd count peyote. I even know multiple ways to do the strange turn that occurs every other row - and yet I still shy away from using it. It's really silly - because it's the best way to make symmetrical designs.

So I challenged myself to use it this week - and not just once, but three times. I didn't say it had to be three different projects though...


This week's project is an odd count peyote stitch ring with a cross motif.  Can you guess what the hardest part was?


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Shine like the sun! This brick stitch beading reminds me of either the sun's rays or mountain tops. Of course, what it looks like will depend on the colors you choose.


This week, I decided to start using up some of the wire hoop findings that are in my stash. I have what by normal people standards a lot of them (more than 150 pairs is a lot, right?).

Anyway, this will obviously be the first of possibly multiple upcoming hoop designs. These are super easy if you know how to do brick stitch.

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Did you ever make something that was destined to become one of your favorite designs, but you couldn't fathom it at the time?  That's pretty much the story of this two drop peyote heart ring.


The original peyote heart ring was a free tutorial that I made when I was writing for The Spruce Crafts. The peyote heart ring word chart can be found at the link and the tutorial is still available at The Spruce Crafts site. The first version was regular peyote, which made the design a bit square.


When I discovered two drop peyote, it became a little quicker to make and the heart became rounder.


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Many beadwork designs benefit from being flexible that can make them drape like fabric.  Beaded ropes and fringe need to curve and move as part of their design. But sometimes, the flexibility of woven beads is not an asset. It can cause edges to curl or designs to lose their shape.


Circular brick stitch and circular netting, along with Russian leaves are designs that don't always stay flat for me. I've tried several different methods to have them hold their shape, but only one has worked really well for me.
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Now if a title about cleaning bead holes doesn't make you excited for the new year, what does?

I realize it's not that catchy, but I've started the year with the intent to 'Do more, Buy less', so the topic is on point. The top bracelet has the beads in desperate need of a cleaning. They are peach moonstone just like the new bracelet underneath it.  I guess when you wear a bracelet every day without taking it off, it can get a bit grimy.


Even though I own enough beads to stock a small bead store, I can't bring myself to throw out a perfectly good bead - no less an entire bracelet worth of them. Especially when they are gemstone beads. So, here's what I did.

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You would think I would have looked into polishing my metal components before now - but I've always thought tumbling was enough. And tumbling is definitely better than not tumbling, but I'm coming to the conclusion that tumbling is definitely not the same as polishing.

Here's a before and after photo that I hope will help illustrate the difference.


The bottom paddle was 'polished' using a rotary rock tumbler. The top paddle has been polished to a mirror like shine using polishing papers. To be fair, I don't think I polished the bottom paddle with a cloth or anything, so it's a little tarnished - but trust me, that's not the only difference.

Before I jump into using polishing papers, I'll give a little overview of tumble polishing.

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Circular netting is a versatile beadwork stitch that can be used to make everything from small beaded pendants to beaded drink coasters and place mats. All it takes is time and beads.  Ok - and you'll need to know technique too.


The basic circular netting stitch can be found in my previous article.  Today is a promised followup to take your circular netting to the next step and make mandala style pendants.


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Stringing beads onto floppy thread or cord can be maddening, if not downright impossible.  Several solutions exist to this problem. There are big eye or collapsible eye needles, both of which work fabulously, but only if your thread or cord can fit through the bead doubled over.  I have run into this problem several times recently making macrame bracelets.


The charm on this bracelet sat unused for the longest time because I couldn't get a cord through the small holes. When I tried, the cord would just split and fray.

What can you do when you have the perfect beads but the cord will just barely fit through them? You could use silk cord with a built-in needle - but that can get expensive, and silk cord doesn't work for all knotting options - especially macrame or kumihimo.  My solution is to make a glue needle.


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Another spiral wire ring design. I have made spiral wire rings before, but this one is slightly different - one that I like a bit better for a number of reasons.


First, the ring is larger and more substantial than the others I've made. This is due to using a thicker (smaller gauge) wire. I also like the ring band, which has no extra wraps or fuss, is more comfortable to wear. Last, the domed top allowed me to dust off another tool I haven't used in a while, and that's always a good thing!  Here's how I made it.

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Pearl knotting isn't just for pearls.  Strands of pearls are most likely to be knotted between beads to prevent them from rubbing together and damaging the delicate surface, but many other beads look great knotted.


However, knotting between beads, like many other jewelry making techniques, has several variables to consider and takes practice to get it right.

Luckily, there is an easy way to knot that doesn't require practice or skill or special tools to get great results.  You also don't need to knot between every bead. Sometimes it makes sense to add a knot every few beads on the strand just in case a necklace breaks - all of the beads won't be lost.

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