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Let the world know if you are feeling like a “Sour Puss” or full of love and ready to “Pucker Up” with the madly adorable and quick double sided amigurumi lemon from ME, Stephanie Pokorny, here at Crochetverse!!

This is a free pattern, but please always share the link to my page here and never the pattern itself. Your visits to me allow me to continue to bring you cute freebies! Thank you kindly for honoring the work! <3 

Materials:

  • 50 yards worsted weight yarn (Shown Red Heart Super Saver in Bright Yellow)
  • 10 yards worsted weight yarn in green and pink (Shown Red Heart Super Saver Glowworm, Black, Pretty In Pink)
  • Size G (4.25mm) crochet hook
  • small amount stuffing or yarn scraps
  • scissors, tapestry needle
  • small amount white yarn or white puffy paint for eyes

Finished Size:

About 5″ tall x 3″ wide

Gauge:

Not important BUT you do need nice tight amigurumi style stitches so the stuffing does not show thought. I crochet tightly. Feel free to drop down a hook size or two if you are looser tension.

Body (Make 2):

With yellow, ch 2:

Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (2)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc. (2)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each sc. (4)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in 1st sc, sc in nxt 2, 2 sc in last sc. (6)

Row 5: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each of 1st 2 sc, sc in nxt 2 sc, 2 sc in each of last 2 sc. (10)

Row 6-7: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc. (10)

Row 8: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each of 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 6 sts, 2 sc in each of last 2 sts. (14)

Row 9-14: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. (14)

Row 15: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 10 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts. (12)

Row 16: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. (12)

Row 17: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 8 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts. (10)

Row 18: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. (10)

Row 19: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 6 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts. (8)

Row 20: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 4 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts. (6)

Row 21: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nct 2 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts, cut yarn on FIRST body piece, do NOT CUT yarn on second body piece and move to join. (4)

Join:

Pull up the final loop on the 2nd body panel so it doesn’t pull out and lay the 1st body panel made on top of the 2nd body panel made. Insert your hook in the matching stitch on the top panel where the loop is on the 2nd panel. Pull the loop through the top panel, ch 1, working through BOTH body panels at once to join, sc in each end of row around working 3 sc at the small tip on top. Before you join the bottom, stuff with polyfil (not too much) and complete round, sl st to 1st st made. Cut yarn. Weave in any ends to this point.

Eyes (Make 4):

With black, make a magic ring:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in ring, sl st to 1st made, cut, leave tail to sew to face. (8)

Cheeks (Make 2):

With pink, make magic ring:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring, sl st to 1st made, cut, leave tail to sew to face. (6)

Leaves (Make 2):

With green, ch 10:

Rnd 1: sl st in 2nd ch from hook and nxt 2 chs, sc in nxt ch, hdc in nxt 2 chs, dc in nxt 2 chs, 6 dc in last ch, working up the opposite side of the chain in the remaining free loops, dc in nxt 2 chs, hdc in nxt 2 chs, sc in nxt ch, sl st in nxt 2 chs, sl st to skipped 1st ch, cut yarn, leave tail to sew to body.

Assembly:

Using the photo as a guide throughout:

  1. Sew the leaves on the top pointed end atop each other and slightly spread apart.
  2. Sew 2 eyes on each side of the body a little above midway between top and bottom.
  3. On happy side (sides with leaves), sew on the cheeks just below and outside the eyes. Using a strand of black yand and straight stitch, sew a small “v” for a mouth.
  4. On the cranky side, using a strand of black yarn and straight stitch, sew a straight line mouth and eyebrows that angle sharply down and to center.
  5. Using white yarn or puffy paint (I used puffy paint), make one large dot and 3 small on the happy side as shown. On the cranky side, make one large and one small dot. if using paint, let one side dry fully before doing the 2nd side.

Follow me on any of my social media to stay in touch, I would love to have you! Much love and yarn, Stephanie Pokorny (Crochetverse)

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Follow on Pinterest Here!

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The information and photos in this posting are the sole copyrighted property of Crochetverse©2019. Please do not copy and paste any of the information contained within either electronically, verbally, or written in part or in whole. Instead, please share the DIRECT LINK to this posting only, and if you do, I thank you for sharing. You of course may sell anything you make from this pattern that you have made with your own two hands, no contract labor or mass productions are permitted. I need your visits to keep me around creating! Please never screenshot or copy and paste the info within, instead share the link so I may entertain your friends as well! If you credit Crochetverse as the designer that is greatly appreciated!

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My son recently became obsessed with “Peepers” as he calls them haha!

So of course I had to crochet him one. I introduce the FREE 3-D pattern for:

Pocket Peep:

HE IS 3-D and chunky and squishy just like a real Peep!

Materials:

  • 50 yards worsted weight yarn (Shown Red Heart Super Saver in Bright Yellow)
  • Size G (4.25mm) crochet hook
  • small amount stuffing or yarn scraps
  • scissors, tapestry needle
  • small amount black yarn or black puffy pain for eyes

Finished Size:

About 5″ tall x 3″ wide

Gauge:

Not important BUT you do need nice tight amigurumi style stitches so the stuffing does not show thought. I crochet tightly. Feel free to drop down a hook size or two if you are looser tension.

Body (Make 2):

Ch 2:

Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (2)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc. (2)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each sc. (4)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in 1st sc, sc in nxt 2, 2 sc in last sc. (6)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each of 1st 2 sc, sc in nxt 2 sc, 2 sc in each of last 2 sc. (10)

Row 5-6: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc. (10)

Row 7: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each of 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 6 sts, 2 sc in each of last 2 sts. (14)

Row 8-13: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. (14)

Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 10 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts. (12)

Row 15: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. (12)

Row 16: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 8 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts. (10)

Row 17: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. (10)

Row 18: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 6 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts. (8)

Row 19: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 4 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts, cut yarn on FIRST body piece, do NOT CUT yarn on second body piece and move to join. (6)

Join:

Pull up the final loop on the 2nd body panel so it doesn’t pull out and lay the 1st body panel made on top of the 2nd body panel made. Insert your hook in the matching stitch on the top panel where the loop is on the 2nd panel. Pull the loop through the top panel, ch 1, working through BOTH body panels at once to join, sc in each end of row around working 3 sc at the small tip on top. Before you join the bottom, stuff with polyfil (not too much) and complete round, sl st to 1st st made. Cut yarn. Weave in any ends to this point.

Mid-Body (Make 1):

Ch 5:

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and nxt 3 chs. (4)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in 1st st, sc in nxt 2 sts, 2 sc in last st. (6)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in 1st st, sc in nxt 4 sts, 2 sc in last st. (8)

Row 4-10: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. (8)

Row 11: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 4 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts. (6)

Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 2 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts, do not cut yarn, continue to edge. (4)

Edge:

Rnd 1: Ch 1, do not turn, sc in end of each row down 1st side, 2 sc in 1st st on bottom, sc dec over middle 2 sts, 2 sc in last st on bottom, sc in each end of row up 2nd side, 2 sc in 1st st along top, sc dec over middle 2 sts, 2 sc in last st, sl st to 1st sc made.

Rnd 2: ch 1, do not turn, reverse sc in each sc around, sl st to 1st st made, cut yarn leaving 36: tail to sew to body.

Sew to mid-body to body assembly:

The right side of the body you already made is the side where the right side of the join round is facing up. Position the mid-body 1 row above the bottom of the body assembly and about 5 rows down from the pointed tip. Using tail, sew the mid-body (with reverse sc edge round facing up) to the body, sew just INSIDE the reverse sc round, you want that round to remain prominent to delineate between the body and mid-body. Just before last few sts are sewn down, fill with a tiny bit of stuffing.  

Head (Make 1):

Ch 2:

Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (2)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each st. (4)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc. (4)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in 1st st, sc in nxt 2 sts, 2 sc in last st. (6)

Row 5: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in 1st st, sc in nxt 4 sts, 2 sc in last st. (8)

Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 4 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts. (6)

Row 7: ch 1, turn, (sc dec over 2 sts) three times total. (3)

Edge:

Rnd 1: ch 1, do not turn, sc in each st and end of row around, at the tip work (sc, ch 1, sc) all in the same st, sl st to 1st sc made.

Rnd 2: ch 1, do not turn, sc in each sc around, in the ch-1 sp work, (sc, ch 1, sc), sl st to 1st sc made.

Rnd 3: ch 1, do not turn, reverse sc in each st around, sl st to 1st st made, cut yarn leaving 24” tail to sew to mid-body.

Using tail end sew head to mid-body:

Pinch the sides of the head slighty so it sits higher from the body. Sew thehead to the top of the mid-body nearer the pointed tip end. Sew with the right side of the reverse sc round facing up, just inside the reverse sc round, just before you sew it down completely, stuff so it sits high from the body. It should be triangular at the nose and rounded at the top of head, sew and shape as you attach to achieve this. You can sew a few sts at the tip of the nose to “pinch” it even more pointed as well. Cut yarn. Weave in all ends.

Eyes:

You can make eyes with French knots and black yarn or do as I did and use black puffy paint.

Follow me on any of my social media to stay in touch, I would love to have you! Much love and yarn, Stephanie Pokorny (Crochetverse)

Follow on Facebook Here!

Follow on Instagram Here!

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The information and photos in this posting are the sole copyrighted property of Crochetverse©2019. Please do not copy and paste any of the information contained within either electronically, verbally, or written in part or in whole. Instead, please share the DIRECT LINK to this posting only, and if you do, I thank you for sharing. You of course may sell anything you make from this pattern that you have made with your own two hands, no contract labor or mass productions are permitted. I need your visits to keep me around creating! Please never screenshot or copy and paste the info within, instead share the link so I may entertain your friends as well! If you credit Crochetverse as the designer that is greatly appreciated!


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Need proof that tricky leprechaun escaped your leprechaun trap?

MAKE THIS POOP!

In under an hour (took me about 30 minutes actually!) you can own your own magical poop! Probably faster that some of the people in your life take for the real thing. Hahahah!

And here is our trap. A shiny new hat, a lucky penny, and a bottle full of gold! Irresistable!

Materials:

  • less than 10 yards each of worsted weight yarn in the following colors: (Red Heart Super Saver Flame, Spring Green, and Hunter Green and Red Heart With Love Metallic in White and Gray)
  • Size H (5.0mm) crochet hook
  • tiny bit of stuffing if desired
  • scissors, tapestry needle
  • glue gun and glue sticks if you want to glue in place (optional)
  • gold glitter puffy paint for accent (optional)

Gauge:

Really not too important, poop comes in all sizes. BUT you do not want big gappy stitches. I crochet tightly, you may have to drop a hook size to get that.

Finished Size:

About 4″ at the base and about 3.5″ tall

Instructions: (US Terms)

Row 1: With flame orange yarn, make a chainless foundation single crochet row of 76 stitches, cut yarn.

Alternatively, you can chain 77, single crochet in the second chain from the hook and each rem chain across and cut yarn.

Row 2: All subsequent rows are joined from the right side of the previous row in the right most stitch BACK LOOP ONLY with a sl st. Do NOT TURN. Join the Spring green in the right most stitch in the BACK LOOP ONLY, ch 1, scblo in each st across, cut yarn. (76)

Row 3: Repeat Row 2 with metallic white.

Row 4: Repeat Row 2 with hunter green.

Row 5: Repeat Row 2 with metallic gray, DO NOT CUT YARN.

Row 6: (Closing Row): Fold the piece in half with the right side of the rows facing out and matching rows 1 and 5, working in the rem loop of the beginning chain (if you chained to start) or inner loop (if you foundation chained) AND the inner loop of row 5, loosely slip stitch rows 1 and 5 to close into a tube. I put the smallest amount of stuffing in the first half of the tube.

Weave in all the tails. Use one tail on each end to sew the ends shut. Sew it tightly so it creates a “point” like a real poop!

Using pins form one end into a circle about 4″ in circumference and sew or glue in place. As you turn into a loop, TWIST the tube so the final poop looks most realistic!

Continue to swirl up and sew or glue in place as you go. Each subsequent turn of the poop should be slightly smaller than the previous. End with a tip. Optionally, swirl gold glitter puffy pain around the poop.

ENJOY YOUR POOP!

Follow me on any of my social media to stay in touch, I would love to have you! Much love and yarn, Stephanie Pokorny (Crochetverse)

Follow on Facebook Here!

Follow on Instagram Here!

Follow on Ravelry Here!

Follow on Pinterest Here!

Follow on YouTube Here!

Follow on Twitter Here!

Follow on Etsy Here!

The information and photos in this posting are the sole copyrighted property of Crochetverse©2019. Please do not copy and paste any of the information contained within either electronically, verbally, or written in part or in whole. Instead, please share the DIRECT LINK to this posting only, and if you do, I thank you for sharing. You of course may sell anything you make from this pattern that you have made with your own two hands, no contract labor or mass productions are permitted. I need your visits to keep me around creating! Please never screenshot or copy and paste the info within, instead share the link so I may entertain your friends as well! If you credit Crochetverse as the designer that is greatly appreciated!

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It seems like all the school have a Dr. Seuss Week and .. why wouldn’t they?!

His books, imagination, and drawings are amazing and fun and everything a kid could love! (and adult! haah!)

I created this Green Eggs and Ham Headband for my son for his week. It is the cutest little thing and I hope you enjoy making them!

Please don’t ever copy and paste this pattern to share. Instead share the link to my page here. I need you amazing folk to visit me so I can keep offering FREE patterns! Let me know if you need help or find an error ever at info@crochetverse.com or on my Facebook Page! While you are there, follow me and like it. That way you won’t miss out on anything!

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Materials:

worsted weight yarn in the following amounts and colors

  – 50 yards white (Red Heart Super Saver Aran)

               – 50 yards green (Red Heart Super Saver Spring Green)

              – 25 yards black (Red Heart Super Saver Black)

 – size H (5mm) crochet hook

– size I (5.5mm) crochet hook

– size E (3.5mm) crochet hook

– ½” headband

– glue gun and glue sticks if you want to use them to attach (I did)

– tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure, small amount of stuffing

Gauge:

Part of pattern. I crochet VERY tightly. You may need to drop a hook size or two to meet my gauge.

Rounds 1-3 of platter = 2 ¼” diameter

Sized For:

One size fits all

Instructions:

Platter:

With double strand white and I hook, make magic ring, ch 1:

Do not join. Do not turn. Unless specifically instructed.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in ring. (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (16)

Rnd 3: (sc in nxt sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) eight times total. (24)

PAUSE CHECK GAUGE:

Your circle should measure 2 ¼” in diameter.

If yours is LARGER, your tension is looser than mine. Go DOWN a hook size and try again.

If yours is SMALLER, your tension is tighter than mine. Go UP a hook size and try again.

Rnd 4: hdc in nxt 3 sts, 3 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 3 sts, sc in nxt 3 sts, hdc in nxt 3 sts, 3 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, sc in nxt st, 2 sc in nxt st, sc in nxt 5 sts. (30)

Rnd 5: sc in nxt st, 2 sc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, (hdc, sc) in nxt st, 2 sc in nxt st, sc in nxt 4 sts, 2 sc in nxt st, sc in nxt 2 sts, (sc, hdc) in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 2 sc in nxt st, sc in nxt 3 sts, 2 sc in nxt st, sc in last 3 sts. (39)

Rnd 6: sc in nxt 4 sts, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, sc in nxt 7 sts, 2 sc in nxt st, sc in nxt 4 sts, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 3 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, sc in last 9 sts. (44)

Rnd 7: sc in nxt 5 sts, (sc, hdc) in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, 2 sc in nxt st, sc in nxt 10 sts, (sc, hdc) in nxt st, hdc in nxt 4 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 3 sts, (hdc, sc) in nxt st, sc in last 8 sts. (52)

Rnd 8: sc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 4 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 3 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 3 sts, sc in nxt 9 sts, sl st to nxt st, leave rem sts unworked, cut yarn.

Join double strand black yarn with I hook in the st AFTER the sl st close of round 8.

Rnd 9: ch 2, sk nxt st, sc in nxt st, (ch 1, sk nxt sc, sc in nxt st) four times, ch 2, sk nxt st, sc in nxt st, (ch 1, sk nxt st, sc in nxt st) three times, ch 2, sk nxt st, sc in nxt st, (ch 1, sk nxt st, sc in nxt st) six times, ch 2, sk nxt st, sc in nxt st, ch 1, sk nxt st, sc in nxt st, (ch 2, sk nxt st, sc in nxt st) three times (ch 1, sk nxt st, sc in nxt st) three times, ch 2, sk nxt st, sc in nxt st, (ch 1, sk nxt st, sc in nxt st) twice, ch 2, sl st to 1st ch made on the round, cut yarn.

With a single strand of black yarn and I hook and to mimic the illustration lines as shown in the book, surface crochet lines as shown on this image. I keep the working yarn on the underside of the work and loosely slip stitch bringing the yarn through the piece and to the top side as I work. (see this video by Repeat Crafter Me here to learn that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmXuTlnnzMQ )

Weave in all ends to this point.

Eggs (Make 2):

With single strand white and E hook, make magic ring, ch 1:

Do not turn. Do not join. Unless specifically instructed.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12)

Rnd 3: (sc in nxt st, 2 sc in nxt st) eight times. (18)

Rnd 4: sc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, (hdc, dc) in nxt st, (dc, hdc) in nxt st, sc in nxt st, (sc, hdc, dc) all in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, sc in nxt 2 sts, (hdc, dc) in nxt st, 2 dc in nxt st, (hdc, sc) in nxt st, sc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, 2 dc in nxt st, hdc in nst st, sc in last st, sl st to 1st st made cut yarn.

Rnd 5: join a single strand of black in the BACK LOOP ONLY of any st around with the right side facing up and E hook, ch 1, sl st LOOSELY in the back loop only of each st around, sl st to 1st ch made cut yarn.

Yolk (Make 2):

With single strand green yarn and E hook, make magic ring, ch 1:

Do not turn or join unless instructed.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around, sl st to 1st sc made, cut yarn, leaving tail to sew to egg base. (12)

Using hot glue or tail end of yolk sew to center of egg base.

Using hot glue or tail end of egg, sew that to the platter using the photo as a guide.

Ham:

With single strand white and E hook, make magic ring, ch 1:

Do not turn or join unless instructed.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring, sl st to FRONT LOOP ONLY of 1st sc made, cut yarn. (6)

Rnd 2: join single strand black to any BACK LOOP ONLY around, ch 1, 2 scblo in same st as ch-1 and scblo in nxt st, (2 scblo in nxt st, scblo in nxt st) twice, sl st to front loop only of 1st st made, cut yarn. (9)

Rnd 3: join single strand green to any BACK LOOP ONLY around, ch 1, 2 scblo in each st around. (18)

Rnd 4: (sc in nxt st, 2 sc in nxt st) nine times. (27)

Rnd 5: (sc in nxt 2 sts, 2 sc in nxt st) nine times. (36)

Rnd 6: scblo in each st around. (36)

DO NOT CUT YARN, BUT DROP GREEN for a moment.

Black Lines:

Join a single strand of black in the remaining front loop from round 6, loosely sl st in each front loop around, sl st to 1st st made, cut yarn.

Using the same technique as on the platter, slip stitch 3 lines on the front face of the ham around the bone. I did not weave in any of these ends. Instead I pulled them to the back of the piece and tucked them inside as the piece was made.

Rnd 7: pick back up the green yarn and sc in each st around. (36)

Rnd 8: (sc in nxt 4 sts, sc dec over nxt 2 sts) six times total (30)

Rnd 9: (sc in nxt 3 sts, sc dec over nxt 2 sts) six times. (24)

Rnd 10: (sc in nxt 2 sts, sc dec over nxt 2 sts) six times. (18)

Rnd 11: (sc in nxt st, sc dec over nxt 2 sts) six times. (12)

Rnd 12-15: sc in each sc around. (12)

STUFF HAM.

Rnd 16: (sc dec over the nxt 2 BACK LOOPS ONLY) six times, sl st to 1st st made, cut yarn, use tail to sew any rem hole closed.

Rnd 17: join a single strand of black in the rem front loops from round 16, ch 1, sl st loosely in each rem loop around, sl st to 1st st made, cut yarn.

You can sew a few lines around the ham with black yarn and needle as desired using photo as a guide.

Weave in any remaining ends. Sew or hot glue the ham to the platter between the lines your surface crocheted onto it.

Headband:

With green yarn single strand and H hook, chain 55:

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each rem ch across. (54)

Row 2-5: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. Cut yarn after row 5 leaving 30” tail to sew to headband.

Using the tail and keeping the seam on the underside of the headband, whip stitch the 1st and last row together to cover the headband.

If your headband is wider or longer, add a few stitches or a row as needed to cover without stretching too tightly.

Place on head and pin the platter offset in position using the photo as a guide. Sew or hot glue the platter into place.

Follow me on any of my social media to stay in touch, I would love to have you! Much love and yarn, Stephanie Pokorny (Crochetverse)

Follow on Facebook Here!

Follow on Instagram Here!

Follow on Ravelry Here!

Follow on Pinterest Here!

Follow on YouTube Here!

Follow on Twitter Here!

Follow on Etsy Here!

The information and photos in this posting are the sole copyrighted property of Crochetverse©2019. Please do not copy and paste any of the information contained within either electronically, verbally, or written in part or in whole. Instead, please share the DIRECT LINK to this posting only, and if you do, I thank you for sharing. You of course may sell anything you make from this pattern that you have made with your own two hands, no contract labor or mass productions are permitted. I need your visits to keep me around creating! Please never screenshot or copy and paste the info within, instead share the link so I may entertain your friends as well! If you credit Crochetverse as the designer that is greatly appreciated!

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MCoraline! One of my favorite movies. So creepy and so amazing! The imagination that went into making it is mind blowing to me!

I often get asked how I create my costumes. This FREE pattern will give you a beginner insight as to how I work. <3 If you notice any errors, please feel free to message me! I can be found across all social medias as Crochetverse!

Please do feel free to sell a COMPLETED item you make from this pattern. Please do NOT ever copy and paste any part of the pattern and share it anywhere else or attempt to sell it or give it for free. I work many hours to bring you these patterns and want to keep being able to do so, so I need you all to visit me here! <3 If you see the pattern anywhere but here on my blog, please do let me know! We are part of a strong as heck “stand together” community and I love it! Without further ado, please enjoy and come share your works with me on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/Crochetverse

MATERIALS:

– Worsted weight yarn in the following approximate amounts and colors:

Dark Blue: 200 yards

Royal Blue: 200 yards

Skintone: 150 yards

Black, Dark Gray, White, Bubblegum Pink, Medium Brown, Dark Tan, Light Coral, Dark Pink, Light Turquoise: Less than 20 yards each.

– Sizes N(9mm), H(5mm), G(4mm), E(3mm), 1.5mm crochet hooks

– tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure, stitch markers

– glue gun and glue stick if you choose to use this method

– small amount of fiber stuffing

– various shadows and makeup brushes if you choose to highlight

GAUGE: 6 rows x 9 sts in half double crochet is 4” x 4”

SIZED FOR:  Average teen/adult although my 4 year old can wear it just fine with more drape.

FINISHED DIMENSIONS: about 14 at tallest point and about 11” deep from face to back of head

INSTRUCTIONS:

Main Hood:

With dark blue and royal blue held double strand and 9mm hook, chain 18:

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook (skipped ch does NOT count as a st here and throughout), hdc in nxt 15 chs, 3 hdc in last ch, (place marker in the 2nd hdc of the 3 hdc just made), continue working up the opposite side of the beginning chain working in the remaining free loops, hdc in nxt 16 chs.

Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as st here and throughout), turn, hdc in same st as ch-1 and nxt 16 sts, 3 hdc in nxt st , move marker to the 2nd hdc, hdc in last 17 sts.

Row 3: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and nxt 17 sts, 3 hdc in marked st, move marker to 2nd hdc of the 3, hdc in last 18 sts.

Row 4: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and nxt 18 sts, 3 hdc in marked st, move marker to 2nd hdc of the 3, hdc in last 19 sts.

Row 5: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and nxt 19 sts, 3 hdc in marked st, move marker to 2nd hdc of the 3, hdc in last 20 sts.

Row 6: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and nxt 20 sts, 3 hdc in marked st, move marker to 2nd hdc of the 3, hdc in last 21 sts.

Row 7: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and nxt 21 sts, 3 hdc in marked st, move marker to 2nd hdc of the 3, hdc in last 22 sts.

Row 8: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and nxt 22 sts, 3 hdc in marked st, move marker to 2nd hdc of the 3, hdc in last 23 sts.

Row 9: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and nxt 23 sts, 3 hdc in marked st, move marker to 2nd hdc of the 3, hdc in last 24 sts.

Row 10: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and nxt 24 sts, 3 hdc in marked st, move marker to 2nd hdc of the 3, hdc in last 25 sts.

Row 11: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and nxt 25 sts, 3 hdc in marked st, move marker to 2nd hdc of the 3, hdc in last 26 sts.

Row 12: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and nxt 26 sts, 3 hdc in marked st, move marker to 2nd hdc of the 3, hdc in last 27 sts.

Row 13: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and nxt 27 sts, 3 hdc in marked st, move marker to 2nd hdc of the 3, hdc in last 28 sts. (59 hdc)

Row 14-16: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st and each st across, cut blue yarns. (59 hdc)

Row 17: turn the piece as normal to work back on the same row and join double strand skintone yarn with a sl st in the 7th st from the end (skip last 6 sts made on row 16), ch 1, hdc in same st as ch-1, hdc in nxt 46 sts, leave the remaining 6 sts of row 16 unworked. (47 hdc)

Row 18: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st as ch-1 and each rem hdc across, cut the skintone yarn, mark the last st made of this row with a stitch marker. (47 hdc)

Row 19: turn the piece as normal to work back on the same row and join double strand skintone yarn with a sl st in the 11th st from the end (skip the last 10 sts made on row 18), ch 1, sl st in the same st as the ch-1, sc in the nxt st, hdc in the nxt 23 sts, sc in the nxt st, sl st in nxt st.

Row 20: ch 1, turn, sk the 1st sl st and sc of previous row, sc in the nxt st, hdc in nxt 21 sts, sc in nxt st, sk nxt st, sl st in last st.

Row 21: ch 1, turn, sk the 1st sl st and sc, sc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 18 sts, sc in nxt st, sk nxt st, sl st in last st.

Row 22: with the wrong side of row 18 facing you, join double strand skintone yarn in the marked last st of the row, ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in each st around the edge of the skin tone stitches making TWO sc in the end of each row across the visor portion (row 19-21).

Row 23: ch 1, reverse sc in each sc made in row 22, cut yarn.

Blue Hair Panel:

Row 1: With blue shades held double strand make a chainless foundation row of 63 hdc. Alternatively, chain 64, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (63 hdc)

Row 2-6: ch 1, turn, hdc in same st as ch-1 and each rem st across, cut yarn after row 6. (63 hdc)

Mold and Attach Hair Panel:

1. Tuck up the ends to create a little bulk. Fold stitches 1 & 2 onto 3 & 4 and sew into place with the hair color yarn. Fold stitches 60 & 61 onto 62 & 63 and sew into place.

2. Lay the folded stitches of the 1,2,3,4,5,6 end lined up with the skintone stitches on the left side of the hood (left side envisioning being worn), sew into place there along the short folded edge.

3. Continue to sew into place at the line where the blue and skintone meet (slightly have the blue overlap the skintone so there is no ugly gapping) stop 1” to the right (when looking at the hood straight on) short of the midline of the skintone visor extension. Take the opposite folded end and pin temporarily in place matched up the the skintone edge as you did for the 1st folded edge. Using the slack that is still present in the hair panel, pinch up about 1” to create the “hair bump”. Use stitches to tack this shut up the pinch and to the hair line as well. Continue to sew along the front edge until the hair panel is fully sewn to the hairline across the front of the hood.

4. Sew along the entire back long edge of the hair panel attaching it into place, BUT place the smallest amount of stuffing inside as you sew. You want to give it a little body but not allow it to show through the stitches.

Eyes (Make 2):

***REFER TO THIS PICTURE THROUGHOUT FACE CREATION AND SHADING***

With G hook and double strand black, make magic ring, ch 1:

Rnd 1: make 6 sc in the ring, sl st to 1st sc made, pull tightly on tail to close ring. (6)

Rnd 2: do not turn, 2 sc in each sc around, sl st to 1st sc made. (12)

Rnd 3: switch to H hook, ch 1, sl st loosely in the BACK LOOP ONLY of each sc around, sl st to the 1st sl st made, cut yarn.

With single strand of dark gray yarn and a tapestry needle, sew an “X” shape in the middle of each eye, as you would write it on paper “open end” of the “x” at top and bottom. Using the same gray yarn, sew little straight stitches around the circumference of the circle just inside the final sl st round.

With 1 ply of a separated strand of white yarn (or fingering weight cotton as I used) and a 1.5mm hook (tiniest you have probably!) make a chain of 6.

Sew the chain 6 to the eye using the photo as a guide, position the same on both eyes and beginning at about the 4 o’clock position and ending about the 6 o’clock position.

Using the photo as a guide, sew or glue each eye into place on the hood visor, making sure you leave a little room for the eyebrows.

You can definitely use a precision tip glue gun to tack these pieces down. It WILL hold and is stronger than you may think! You can use a tooth pick to apply the glue, it is a one shot deal. If you use to much it is hard to correct.

Eyebrows:

Left Eyebrow (envisioning it being worn):

With G hook and double strand of a medium brown, chain 11:

Row 1: sl st in 2nd ch from hook and nxt ch, sc in nxt 5 sts, sl st in last 3 chs, cut yarn, knot beginning and end tails together tightly, leave tail long to sew to face.

Right Eyebrow (envisioning it being worn):

With G hook and double strand of a medium brown, chain 11:

Row 1: sl st in 2nd ch from hook and nxt 2 sts, sc in nxt 5 sts, sl st in last 2 sts, cut yarn, knot tails firmly, leave tail for sewing to face.

With a dark tan yarn single strand and tapestry needle, sew 7 vertical straight stitches in each eye brow (see photo as a guide) to simulate hairs on the brows and create depth. Weave in tails and attach the eye brows to the face; the 2 sl st end is closest to the ears and the 3 sl st end is closest to the nose on both sides.

Mouth:

Lips:

With G hook and double strand bright pink, chain 5:

Row 1: sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each rem chain across, cut yarn.

Using the tail, sew to the face using the photo as a guide, turning the corners slightly up into a wee bit of smile as you sew.

Stitch Line:

Using the same dark tan you used for eyebrow accent hair held single strand and G hook, chain 50, cut yarn.

Either sew or glue this OVER the mouth using the photo as a guide, turned up at the ends. The ends on either side are just under the eyes and in line with where ears would be on the face.

Stitch Accents:

With a tapestry needle and a light coral or salmon shade of yarn, sew small vertical stitches along the stitch line of the mouth.

Lip Accent:

Separate a strand of the lip color yarn into two plies. With a tapestry needle, come back and make tiny straight stitches OVER the dark tan stitch line so it looks like the mouth has an opening that was sewn shut.

Ears (Make 2):

With G hook and double strand skintone yarn, make a magic ring, ch 1:

Row 1: 6 sc in the ring, pull tail to close ring. (6)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in the 1st st, 2 sc in the nxt st, (sc in nxt st, 2 sc in nxt st) twice. (9)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, 2 scblo in the 1st st, scblo in nxt 7 sts, 2 scblo in last st. (11)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc in 1st st, 2 sc in nxt st, sc in nxt 2 sts, 2 sc in nxt st, sc in nxt 3 sts, 2 sc in nxt st, sc in nxt st, 2 sc in last st. (15)

Row 5: ch 1, turn, sl st LOOSELY in the BACK LOOP ONLY of each st across, cut yarn leaving tail to sew to head.

Pin the ears in place at same level as eyes and on TOP of the blue hair panel. (The ears emerge from the hair) using the photo as a guide. Make sure the are even top to bottom and also front to back. You want them to curve forward slightly so they “cup” and sew so they “countersink” into the hair panel and look as if they are coming from inside the hair.

Nose:

With G hook and double strand skintone yarn, chain 6:

Rnd 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and nxt 3 chs, ( ch 1, hdc, ch 1, sc, ch 1, hdc, ch 1) all in the last ch, working up the opposite side of the beginning chain, sc in nxt 3 chs, sl st in last ch, cut yarn, knot tails firmly and cut yarn to sew to face.

Sew to nose between eyes, pinch up the end with the bunch of stitches to create the tip of the nose.

Dragonfly Clip:

Body:

With E hook and single strand golden yarn, ch 14:

Rnd 1: sl st in 2nd ch from hook and nxt ch, ch 3, sk nxt 3 chs, sl st in nxt ch 7 chs, ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and nxt 2 chs, sl st in the same ch at the base of the ch 4, ch 4 again, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and nxt 2 chs, sl st once more in the same ch at the base of the ch 4, sl sl in the nxt 6 chs, cut yarn.

Wings:

With the right side of the stitches of the body facing up, join single strand pink yarn with E hook in the 3rd last sl st made on the end of rnd 1, ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and nxt ch, sc in nxt ch, hdc in nxt 2 chs, sc in nxt ch, sl st in last ch, sl st in same ch on body you began from, sl st into nxt ch on body, ch 7, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and nxt ch, sc in nxt ch, hdc in nxt 2 chs, sl st in nxt ch, sl st in nxt ch on golden body on cut yarn.

Turn so the opposite side of the golden body is right side up with looped end to the right and rejoin pink yarn with a sl st in the chain that is opposite the ch you worked the wing closest to the loop end on the other side, ch 7, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and nxt ch, sc in nxt ch, hdc in nxt 2 chs, sl st in nxt ch, sl st in same st on golden body you joined to, sl st in nxt st on golden body, ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and nxt ch, sc in nxt ch, hdc in nxt 2 chs, sc in nxt ch, sl st in nxt ch, sl st in same st on golden body this chain 8 emerged from, cut yarn.

With a fuchsia yarn and tapestry needle sew eyes on the body at the looped end. With light turquoise yarn sew straight stitches along the length of the golden body. Weave in all ends. Sew or glue over right ear onto hair panel.

Braided Detail:

Cut 3 strands of each of the blue yarns you used for the hair (6 total) that are 60” long each. Fold in half and slide through the corner most front stitch of the main hood in the end of the blue rows. Separate evenly into 3 sections and braid the strands until it is about 7” long. Overhand knot as close to the end of the braid as you can and trim ends to about ½”.

Repeat the entire process for the opposite side of the hood.

Weave in any remaining ends.

Optional Shading:

I shade with eye shadows and dry brushed on acrylic paints. The eyes are shaded with pinkish red shadow and a makeup brush. Do a little at a time. You can always add more. You cannot take away if you do too much. It does not surround the eyes completely, just the lower 2/3rds. I shaded the nose with brown shadows along each side and a smidge of dry brushed white down the center. The mouth and stitch line across the mouth are also shaded with brown shadows. She also has freckles under each eye. I created these with acrylic paint and the end of the brush stick dotted on.

Follow me on any of my social media to stay in touch, I would love to have you! Much love and yarn, Stephanie Pokorny (Crochetverse)

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The information and photos in this posting are the sole copyrighted property of Crochetverse©2018. Please do not copy and paste any of the information contained within either electronically, verbally, or written in part or in whole. Instead, please share the DIRECT LINK to this posting only, and if you do, I thank you for sharing. You of course may sell anything you make from this pattern that you have made with your own two hands, no contract labor or mass productions are permitted. I need your visits to keep me around creating! Please never screenshot or copy and paste the info within, instead share the link so I may entertain your friends as well! If you credit Crochetverse as the designer that is greatly appreciated!

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Crochetverse by Crochetverse - 4M ago

One of my favorite summer pastimes with my children is walking along the shores of Lake Erie collecting sea glass. With the lake being of a fair depth and overly tumultuous, she gifts us tons of treasures in the form of seaglass. There is not much better times than having the warm sun shining down on your back, kneeling in the sand, gently searching through so as not to miss one of the smooth water gems. I created this Square to mimic sea glass laying on the sand and honor that memory! So so many thanks to all involved in bringing this to you. It was over a YEAR in the making and done for free by everyone involved. #crochetlove

I designed this to be part of the FREE CROCHET ALONG – Friends Around the World! (Follow the Facebook group at the end of this paragraph for all the squares and info!) This block will fit perfectly with all the other squares in the crochet along. There are so many amazing designers who contributed, definitely check it out! The Facebook group to join can be found here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/668646249929007/

There is FULL FREE VIDEO TUTORIAL FOR THE SEAGLASS SQUARE!! That can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgm1A_eZRHs&t=5229s

This is TRANSLATED INTO MANY LANGUAGES! Click on your language to access that translation!

*English is only available here on the blog (I love and need you to visit so I may stay up and running!)

FAQ’S about the Crochet Along:

  1. Each square has been meticulously tested and designed so that they all will fit together utilizing the final round. If you match gauge, you will end up with a 12″ square.
  2. You can use these for anything! An afghan is what you are likely to see posted but do not be afraid to make just one or two and make a tote or pillow cover!
  3. You can make them solid color or multi color! Whatever suits you!
  4. There will be one square per week released all done for free by each designer, you can follow the Facebook group linked above so as not to miss any of them!

5. Follow me on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/crochetverse

I work to bring you amazing patterns both free and paid that I would love to have you browse! I can be found on Etsy/Shop Name: Crochetverse and Ravelry at https://www.raverly.com/designers/stephanie-pokorny

The pattern in English is only available here on the blog. It is so important that you visit me. One, because I love it and two, because YOUR visits allow me to keep the blog up and continue to bring you free patterns and goodies! I thank you for visiting! <3

Here are two more samples! Both multi and solid! You can see the texture really screams through even on the solid version! I hope you love it as much as I do!

WRITTEN PATTERN:

Materials:

   160 yards total worsted weight yarn per square

   Solid Sample: Red Heart Super Saver Café Latte

   Multi Sample: Varied

   A: (Main Color): Sand (Red Heart Super Saver – Buff)

   B: Light Baby Blue (Red Heart Super Saver – Light Blue)

   C: Turquoise (Red Heart Super Saver – Turqua)

   D: Dark Turquoise (Red Heart With Love – Blue Hawaii)

   E: Bottle Green (Red Heart With Love – Jadeite)

– size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook -OR- size needed to obtain gauge

– stitch marker, scissors, tape measure, tapestry needle

– non-rusting pins if you choose to block and a surface to which you can safely pin and dampen such as foam mats

Gauge:

Rounds 1-4 = 3.5” in diameter

Finished Dimensions:

12” square

Abbreviations:

Ch(s)     chain(s)                                                            Dc             double crochet

Sl st       slip stitch                                                         nxt            nxt

Sc          single crochet                                                 Rnd          round

St(s)      stitch(es)                                                         Hdcpop    half double crochet popcorn

Sp          space                                                               Bphdc       back post half double crochet

Hdc       half double crochet                                       Prev          previous

Instructions (US Terms):

Special Stitches:

hdcpop (hdc popcorn): make the indicated number of hdc in the indicated st, remove hook from the last hdc made and insert into the 1st hdc , pick up the dropped loop from the last st and pull it through the 1st hdc, ch 1 to close. I count backwards from my last hdc made to be sure I have the right number of hdc in each popcorn.

Color Change Notes for Multi Option: (If solid is desired, disregard these notes.)

– The color letter used for each round in the multi sample are listed in parentheses at the beginning of each round with the key listed in the materials section above.

– A/Main Color of the square will be carried from round to round.

– On popcorn rounds, all stitches of the round are done in A/Main Color EXCEPT the popcorns, which will use the second color.

-The color used for the popcorns on each round will be joined in at the final yarn over/pull through of the st just PRIOR to it being needed on the current round and be cut at the end of each round.

– The color used for the popcorn on each round will be carried behind and crocheted over by the main color, swapping back and forth between colors as needed.

– The color change when worked on a popcorn is worked with the final ch-1 of the stitch.

– Make sure you just lay the yarn along the stitches that are not currently being used without pulling tightly or you will pucker your work.

– When round starts with a hdcpop, change colors at the 1st ch-1 of that round.

– I prefer a ch 2 as my beginning ch for dc. If you prefer the look of ch 3, please feel free to do so.

Begin:

Make magic ring: (Alternately, you may ch 2 and work round 1 in 2nd ch from the hook)

Do not turn rounds. Use marker to mark 1st st of each round to keep track.

Rnd 1: (A)ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), 11 dc in ring, sl st to top of beg ch-2, pull tail to close. (12 dc)

Rnd 2: (A & B) ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 2 hdc in same st as ch-1, 4hdcpop (see special sts) in nxt st, *2 hdc in nxt st, 4hdcpop in nxt st, repeat from * four times more, sl st to top of 1st hdc made. (12 hdc & 6 popcorns)

*Note to work into hdcpop: When working into a hdcpop, work the stitch in the closing st of the hdcpop, NOT the ch-1. The chain 1 of each hdcpop will be skipped and not counted anywhere in the piece.

Rnd 3: (A)ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), 2 dc in nxt st, 2 dc in nxt hdcpop, *dc in nxt st, 2 dc in nxt st, 2 dc in nxt hdcpop, repeat from * four times more, sl st to top of beg ch-2. (30)

Rnd 4: (A & C) ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 2 hdc in same st as ch-1, 5hdcpop in nxt st, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, *2 hdc in nxt st, 5hdcpop in nxt st, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, repeat from * four times more, sl st to top of 1st hdc made. (36 hdc & 6 popcorns)

PAUSE CHECK GAUGE: The diameter of your work at this point laid flat and smooth, but not stretched should be 3.5” in diameter.

If you are LARGER, your tension is looser; go down a hook size and try again.

If you are SMALLER, your tension is tighter; go up a hook size and try again.

Rnd 5: (A) ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), dc in nxt st, dc in nxt hdcpop, dc in nxt 3 sts, 2 dc in nxt st, *dc in nxt 2 sts, dc in nxt hdcpop, dc in nxt 3 sts, 2 dc in nxt st, repeat from * four times more, sl st to top of beg ch-2. (48)

Rnd 6: (A & D) ch 1 (does NOT count as st), 6hdcpop in same st as ch-1, hdc in nxt st, 2 hdc in nxt st (these fall in the dc worked in the pop on the prev  from round 4 as a placement check), *hdc in nxt st, 6hdcpop in nxt st, hdc in nxt 3 sts, 6hdcpop in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, 2 hdc in nxt st, repeat from * four times more, hdc in nxt st, 6hdcpop in nxt st, hdc in nxt 3 sts, sl st to top of 1st 6hdcpop made. (42 hdc & 12 popcorns)

Rnd 7: (A) ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), dc in nxt 4 sts, 2 dc in nxt hdcpop, *dc in nxt 3 sts, dc in nxt hdcpop, dc nxt st, 2 dc in nxt st, dc in nxt 2 sts, dc in nxt hdcpop, dc in nxt 2 sts, 2 dc in nxt st, dc in nxt hdcpop, dc in nxt 4 sts, 2 dc in nxt hdcpop, repeat from * once more, dc in nxt 3 sts, dc in hdcpop, dc in nxt st, 2 dc in nxt st, dc in nxt 2 sts, dc in hdcpop, dc in nxt 2 sts, 2 dc in last st, sl st to top of beg ch-2.  (63 dc)

Rnd 8: (A & E) ch 1 (does NOT count as st), 2 hdc in same st as ch-1 (this is placed in top of the dc worked into the hdcpop on prev round for placement check), hdc in nxt 2 sts, *7hdcpop in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, 7hdcpop in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 7hdcpop in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 7hdcpop in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, 2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, repeat from * two times more, omitting the final “2 hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts” from last repeat, sl st to 1st hdc made. (63 hdc & 12 popcorns)

Rnd 9: (A) ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), 2 dc in nxt st, dc in nxt 2 sts, dc in nxt hdcpop, (dc in nxt 2 sts, 2 dc in nxt st, dc in nxt 2 sts, dc in nxt hdcpop) two times total, dc in nxt 6 sts, dc in nxt hdcpop, *(dc in nxt 2 sts, 2 dc in nxt st, dc in nxt 2 sts, dc in nxt hdcpop) three times total, dc in nxt 6 sts, dc in nxt hdcpop, repeat from * one time more, dc in nxt st, sl st to top of beg ch-2.  (84 dc)

Rnd 10: (A & E)ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 7hdcpop in the same st as the ch-1 (this is on top of the beg ch-2 from the prev round for a placement check), (caution, the nxt st after and 7hdcpop can become hidden, be sure it is placed right), hdc in nxt 2 sts making sure you don’t miss the hidden st for the first hdc, 7hdcpop in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, 2 hdc in nxt st (these 2 hdc are in the dc worked in top of hdcpop from prev rnd as a placement check), *hdc in nxt st, 7hdcpop in nxt st, hdc in nxt 2 sts, 7hdcpop in nxt st, hdc in nxt st, 2 hdc in nxt st, repeat from * 10 times more, until 1 st remains, hdc in last st, sl st to top of 1st hdcpop made. (72 hdc & 24 popcorns)

Rnd 11: (A) ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same hdcpop as ch-2, dc in nxt 2 sts, dc in nxt hdcpop, dc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 3 sts, hdc in nxt hdcpop, sc in nxt 2 sts, sc in nxt hdcpop, sc in nxt 4 sts, hdc in nxt hdcpop, hdc in nxt 2 sts, hdc in nxt hdcpop, dc in nxt 4 sts, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in nxt hdcpop, dc in nxt 2 sts, dc in nxt hdcpop, dc in nxt st, hdc in nxt 3 sts, hdc in nxt hdcpop, sc in nxt 2 sts, sc in nxt hdcpop, sc in nxt 4 sts, hdc in nxt hdcpop, hdc in nxt 2 sts, hdc in nxt hdcpop, dc in nxt 4 sts, repeat from * two times more, sl st to top of beg ch-2. (108 sts and 4 ch-2 sps)(48 dc, 32 hdc, 28 sc, 4 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 12: (A) sl st into nxt dc, sl st into nxt ch-2 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), ch 2, dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in nxt 4 sts, hdc in nxt 4 sts, sc in nxt 11 sts, hdc in nxt 4 sts, dc in nxt 4 sts, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in nxt ch-2 sp, dc in nxt 4 sts, hdc in nxt 4 sts, sc in nxt 11 sts, hdc in nxt 4 sts, dc in nxt 4 sts, repeat from * two times more, sl st to top of beg ch-2. (116 sts and 4 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 13: (A) sl st into nxt ch-2 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), ch 2, dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in nxt 10 sts, hdc in nxt 9 sts, dc in nxt 10 sts, *( dc, ch 2, dc) in nxt ch-2 sp, dc in nxt 10 sts, hdc in nxt 9 sts, dc in nxt 10 sts, repeat from * two times more, sl st to top of beg ch-2. (124 sts and 4 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 14: (B) sl st into nxt ch-2 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), ch 2, dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in nxt 31 sts, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in nxt ch-2 sp, dc in nxt 31 sts, repeat from * two times more, sl st to 1st dc made. (132 sts and 4 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 15: (C) sl st into nxt ch-2 sp, ch 1 (does NOT count as 1st st) *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in ch-2 sp, bphdc in nxt 33 sts, repeat from * three times more, sl st to 1st hdc made. (148 sts and 4 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 16: (C) sl st in nxt ch-2 sp, ch 1, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in the ch-2 sp, sc in nxt 37 sts, repeat from * three times more, sl st to 1st sc made, cut yarn. (156 sts and 4 ch-2 sps)

The post Seaglass Crochet Square appeared first on Crochetverse.

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RAINBOWS. SUGAR. GEMS. UNICORNS. THIS POST HAS IT ALL!

YOU HAVE FOUND HEAVEN ON EARTH! Welcome!

I follow the most fun weird group on Facebook called “Show me your Aspics”. In short, it is all things jello-y related. You will see some things that look damn delightful and things that look crazy, but you cannot help but be impressed! Think an entire breakfast meal encased in clear gelatin. Like… the weirdest coolest thing ever, right?!

I saw a post about a Japanese Candy called Kohakutou. It looks like RAINBOW GEMS. So, this obviously required me to RUN FULL SPEED to Amazon Prime and order Agar Agar so I could make it STAT. This is the Agar Agar I ordered for when you have to do the same!

(No affiliation with any of the links posted within, just sharing what I used and liked!)

AGAR AGAR LINK:  https://amzn.to/2ziuzJL

THIS IS THE RECIPE I USED:  https://somssikorea.wordpress.com/2018/01/30/kohakutou-japanese-crystal-jelly-candy/

I messed up and added too much food gel and poured too thin on the 1st batch. So add your coloring sparingly. You want it to be clear still with a hint of color. I actually doubled the recipe and used a 9×13 pan and it was about 1/2″ thick which ended up perfect. There. Now you can avoid my mistakes. Also, WEIGH YOUR AGAR AGAR. It says 1 tsp is 10g on the package and it really is not. It was a heck ton more to reach 10g on my kitchen scale.

And end up with THIS:

LIKE. OH. MY. GOSH. You can add flavor extracts to it as well. I plan to try a citrus with my next batch! You have to let it air dry for SIX days. The wait was not easy. I’ll admit. I sent my sister videos of it drying on the daily. Haha!

It is crunchy on the outside and jelly like kind of like the inside of a gumdrop on the inside. It is the coolest thing ever if you are a texture person! And I SO AM!

Of course, I had to incorporate crochet into this. And what better than a uber cool spindly leg unicorn with rainbow glasses. BTW LOOK AT THAT JAR SHAPE! It is their new “Sharing Jars” and I am obsessed with them for real! I got mine from Walmart here: https://bit.ly/2A2DP4t

Now for the free crochet pattern. I welcome you to make, sell, share them! I ask that you ONLY link back to my blog to share the pattern. Never copy and paste or offer elsewhere. Your visits here are critical to me being able to keep bringing you free patterns! So please, enjoy, and invite your friends to the blog! <3

Unicorn Pattern: (US Terms)

Materials:

– I used Stylecraft Special DK yarn for the project. You can sub in any yarn, but be sure you are working with a hook that feels too small for the yarn thickness. Amigurumi stitches should be TIGHT with no holes. (Colors shown are white, black, Fiesta (pink), Jaffa (orange), Citron (yellow), Bright Green (Green), Turquoise (blue), Lavender (light purple), Magenta (violet).

This is where I order my Stylecraft yarn from LOVEKNITTING.COM

https://www.loveknitting.com/us/stylecraft-special-dk

– D Hook & B Hook (I crochet TIGHTLY! You may have to drop hook sizes to achieve nice tight amigurumi style stitches)

– small amount polyfil stuffing

– tapestry needle and scissors

Finished Size:

About 6” tall

Gauge:

Start with the body: After you are done with the pink round, the piece should measure about 1.5” tail and 1.75” wide. If you are LARGER, your gauge is looser than mine, drop a hook size and try again. If you are SMALLER, your gauge is tighter than mine, go up a hook size and try again.

Instructions:

Body:

With D hook and  white, make magic ring, ch 1:

Do not turn rounds. Do not join rounds unless specifically instructed.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in ring. (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (16)

Rnd 3: (sc in nxt sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) eight times total, sl st to nxt st, cut white. (24)

Rnd 4: join violet yarn with a sl st in the same st as the sl st join of the previous round, ch 1, sc in same st and in each rem st around, sl st to 1st sc made, cut yarn. (24)

Rnd 5: rep rnd 4 with purple yarn.

Rnd 6: rep rnd 4 with blue yarn.

Rnd 7: rep rnd 4 with green yarn.

Rnd 8: rep rnd 4 with yellow yarn.

Rnd 9: rep rnd 4 with orange yarn.

Rnd 10: rep rnd 4 with bright pink yarn.

Rnd 11: join white yarn with a sl st in the same st as the sl st join of the previous round, ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around. (24)

Rnd 12-17: sc in each sc around. (24)

I did not weave in any ends, I knotted together the tails inside and tucked them within. Then, I added a bit of polyfil stuffing to fill up the body the rest of the way.

Rnd 18: (sc in nxt st, scdec over nxt 2 sts) eight times total. (16)

Rnd 19: (scdec over nxt 2 sts) eight times total, sl st to 1st sc made, cut yarn, use tail to weave in and out of these 8 stitches with a tapestry needle and pull tightly to close hole. (8)

Legs (Make 2):

With D hook and white, make magic ring, ch 1:

Do not turn. Do not join unless specifically instructed.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. (6)

Rnd 2-3: sc in each sc around, after rnd 3, sl st to 1st sc made, cut white. Tuck the tail inside the tip of the leg.

Rnd 4: join violet yarn with sl st in the same st as the sl st join of the previous rnd, ch 1, sc in same sc and each sc around, sl st to 1st sc made, cut yarn. Tie tails and tuck inside. (6)

Rnd 5: rep rnd 4 with purple.

Rnd 6: rep rnd 4 with blue.

Rnd 7: rep rnd 4 with green.

Rnd 8: rep rnd 4 with yellow.

Rnd 9: rep rnd 4 with orange.

Rnd 10: rep rnd 4 with bright pink.

Rnd 11: join white with sl st in the same st as the sl st join of the previous round, ch 1, sc in same sc and in each sc around. (6)

Rnd 12-20: sc in each sc around, after rnd 20, sl st to nxt sc and cut yarn leaving 14 inch tail to sew to body.

First, fold the last round of the leg opening in half making sure any seam from color joins will be in the back of the leg. Second, make sure the body is turned so any seam from the color changes is in back and sew the folded last round of the leg to rnd 3 of the body (the white round just under the violet. Repeat for the second leg. You can gently mold the legs to bend as you like.

Arms (Make 2):

With D hook and white, make magic circle, ch 1:

Do not turn or join rounds.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. (6)

Rnd 2-16: sc in each sc around, after rnd 16, sl st to 1st sc made made and cut yarn leaving 14″ tail to sew to body.

First, fold the last round of the arm opening in half, then sew one arm to either side of the body, just above the pink round of the body.

Ears (Make 2):

With D hook and white, make magic ring, ch 1:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in ring. (4)

Rnd 2: sc in each sc around. (4)

Rnd 3: (sc in nxt sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) twice, sl st to 1st sc made, cut yarn leaving tail to sew to head. (6)

Sew round 3 of either ear to each side of the head.

Horn:

With B hook and dark gray yarn, make magic ring, ch 1:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in ring.

Rnd 2-5: sc in each sc around, after rnd 5 sl st to 1st sc made and cut yarn.

Sew round 5 of horn to head.

Snout:

With B hook and white, make magic ring, ch 1:

Rnd 1: 5 sc in ring, sl st to 1st sc made, cut yarn.

Sew to center of face about one round above the pink round on the body.

Nostril and Mouth:

These are stitched on with a needle and black yarn. I separated the 4 plies in half and just used two of the plies to stitch. You can enter and exit within the mane so any little nips of black that show through are hidden within the hair.

Tail: 

With D hook, take an 18″ length of each of the rainbow colors. Leave a 6″ beginning tail, chain 15, pull the end through tightly to secure (knot close to last chain if desired) and trim to 1/4″. After you have done this with each color, overhand knot all the beginning tails together and attach to the booty of the unicorn. I used a drop of hot glue and secured to the green round on the body.

Mane:

Insert the hook around a stitch near the horn at the top of the head. Fold a 24″ length of yarn in half. Lay the looped end over the hook and pull through the head. This is how it looks.

Now, using one tail of the yarn, chain 15. Pull the end tightly to secure and trim to 1/4″. Insert the hook into the 1st chain you made on the first and pull the second tail through, chain 15. Again tightly pull, cut, trim. Repeat using each color of the rainbow in the same manner

Glasses:

These are embroidered on. The black outline is done 1st. Then, within each lens a stripe of the rainbow in each color is done; pink on top down to violet on the bottom. This honestly took some time and finesse. If embroidery is not your thing, please feel free to place with stitched eyes of any type or small black buttons.

Follow me on any of my social media to stay in touch, I would love to have you! Much love and yarn, Stephanie Pokorny (Crochetverse)

Follow on Facebook Here!

Follow on Instagram Here!

Follow on Ravelry Here!

Follow on Pinterest Here!

Follow on YouTube Here!

Follow on Twitter Here!

Follow on Etsy Here!

The information and photos in this posting are the sole copyrighted property of Crochetverse©2018. Please do not copy and paste any of the information contained within either electronically, verbally, or written in part or in whole. Instead, please share the DIRECT LINK to this posting only, and if you do, I thank you for sharing. You of course may sell anything you make from this pattern that you have made with your own two hands, no contract labor or mass productions are permitted. I need your visits to keep me around creating! Please never screenshot or copy and paste the info within, instead share the link so I may entertain your friends as well! If you credit Crochetverse as the designer that is greatly appreciated!

The post Free Unicorn Crochet Pattern & Kohakuto!? appeared first on Crochetverse.

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Why does snow sparkle?   Where does glitter come from? The Legend of the Glitter Snails

(FREE PATTERN AND PRINTABLE!)

***NOTE: don’t forget to use biofriendly glitter or sub in sugar if you want to sprinkle outdoors!***

“Where does glitter come from?”, my children asked me the other day. It is a well guarded secret, but today, I will let you in on the secret story. Pinky promise you won’t tell anyone? Good. Here we go…..

As Mother Nature ushers in Winter with her first snow, so comes the return of the elusive Glitter Snails! They are not your regular average snails. Where a shell usually rests, these creatures opt for a twirly candy shell in its place. No slimy head here, these snails bodies are instead made of sugar filled gumdrops! Teeny antennae rest atop their tiny head guiding them as they creep across newly fallen snow. I was lucky to able to capture these cute little baby snails as I was outside with my children the other day, a rare occurence no doubt. One I will treasure always. But what do they do?!?

As they move slowly across the snow, a trail of shiny gem-like glitter trails behind them; no slime for these magical creatures. This is why snow glistens! Then, farmers, long done with their final crops for the season, come and collect that glitter and after carefully washing it, send it off to craft stores to be distributed to glitter addicts like you and I! They are held to a oath to never share the secret of their winter crops, but I trust you, so here I sit, sharing Nature’s secrets with you. Do not worry, this does not harm the snails, it is a natural part of their life and actually harvesting the glitter helps them make more sparkle and magic!

I am offering you this adorable FREE PATTERN and FREE PRINTABLE!

Create these adorable candy snails as class gifts for parties, package toppers, gifts from Elf on the Shelf, or just to share magic with someone in your life!

This story and legend is my own creation. (Stephanie Pokorny) I am so pleased to share it with you! BUT, Please never copy and paste the pattern or story anywhere. Instead share the link to this page, your visits here allow me to keep creating free wonderful patterns for you!

First, make the wee baby snail.

Then, print this label and fold it atop a small bag of ECOFRIENDLY glitter OR REGULAR SUGAR for outdoor sprinkling!

Finally, SHARE MAGIC WITH A CHILD IN YOUR LIFE!

Printable (Just right click on the image, save and print):

Materials:

  • small amounts of worsted weight yarn in red, green, white, and dark gray
  • F (3.75mm) hook OR size needed to make tight tight small stiches. I crochet tightly, you may have to drop a hook size or two.
  • glue gun and glue sticks
  • toothpicks and white acrylic paint to dot eyes if desired
  • tapestry needle, scissors

Finished Size:

About 2″ wide x 1.5″ tall

Peppermint Candy Body (Make 2):

(one shown as color 1/white, color 2 green and another shown color 1/white, color 2/red)

With color 1, make magic ring:

Special Stitches:

dccc (double crochet color change): perform a double crochet as standard, but at the last pull through of the stitch change to the opposite color and complete stitch with the new color. The color not being used currently will be laid along the magic ring and worked around (encased) within the stitches until it is needed next.

Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc, dccc changing to color 2, *dc , dccc changing to color 1 (making sure to lay the unused along the ring and work the stitches around it), dc, dccc changing to color 2, repeat from * 3 times more, 2 dc, sl st to top of beginning ch 3, cut all yarn. Pull beginning tail from magic ring tightly to close. (20 dc)

I wove only the last tail of color 2 into the back center of the piece. I then knotted all 4 tails together and trimmed to about ¼”. Set aside for assembly later.

Gumdrop Head (Make 1):

In color 3, make magic ring:

Rnd 1: ch 1, 6 sc in ring. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: do not turn, (sc in nxt st, 2 sc in nxt st) three times total. (9 sc)

Rnd 3: do not turn, sc in each sc around. (9 sc)

Rnd 4: do not turn, sc in each sc around, sl st to nxt sc, cut yarn.

Weave in ends and stuff the head with the trimmings. Add a few more trimmings if needed. Set aside for assembly later.

Candy Strip Bottom (Make 1):

In color 3, make magic ring:

Rnd 1-2: repeat as for gum drop head, then sl st to nxt st on ring.

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in nxt 3 sc.

Rows 4-10: ch 1, turn sc in each of the 3 sc.

Row 11: sc dec over the 3 sc (3 sc become 1), ch 1, cut yarn.

Weave in ends on piece.

Assembly:

I have used a glue gun for the entire piece. It is very strong and a great method for pieces like this. You may of course sew the pieces in place instead. (might be hard to do on the peppermint body if you want to maintain integrity of color changes)

  1. Glue the 2 peppermint candy body pieces together with the wrong sides facing in and matching the color striping sections

Be sparing on the glue, swirl the tip of the gun before pulling it away to reduce the fly away strands. Put the glue ring not right at the edge, that way when you press the 2 pieces together it does not mush out the sides.

  1. Glue the open end of the gunmdrop head to rounds 1-2 of the candy strip bottom, lining of the stitches of the outer ring. Again sparing on the glue.
  2. Run a line of glue along the back of the head on the gumdrop (the side facing the long strip tail) and then down the center of the strip to the end. Set it on a table (so the bottom will lay flat when done) and place the peppermint candy body assembly up against the back of the head, then along the strip. Finish by curling the tail end of the strip up the back of the peppermint body.

Finishing:

Antennae:

With gray (or antennae color of choice)  fold a 16” piece of yarn through the center top of the head as shown,  chain 3 with the one end of the yarn, pull tightly, knot as close to the chain as you can and trim. Insert hook on the opposite side as shown, pull of the remaining tail end, ch 3, knot and trim.

Eyes: With gray or color of choice, sew a satin stitch eye on either side of the face. I then dotted a tiny bit of white acrylic paint on each eye with a toothpick.

Follow me on any of my social media to stay in touch, I would love to have you! Much love and yarn, Stephanie Pokorny (Crochetverse)

Follow on Facebook Here!

Follow on Instagram Here!

Follow on Ravelry Here!

Follow on Pinterest Here!

Follow on YouTube Here!

Follow on Twitter Here!

Follow on Etsy Here!

The information and photos in this posting are the sole copyrighted property of Crochetverse©2018. Please do not copy and paste any of the information contained within either electronically, verbally, or written in part or in whole. Instead, please share the DIRECT LINK to this posting only, and if you do, I thank you for sharing. You of course may sell anything you make from this pattern that you have made with your own two hands, no contract labor or mass productions are permitted. I need your visits to keep me around creating! Please never screenshot or copy and paste the info within, instead share the link so I may entertain your friends as well! If you credit Crochetverse as the designer that is greatly appreciated!

The post The Legend of the Glitter Snails – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Crochetverse.

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Would you like to see all the designs published by Stephanie Pokorny, the designer behind Crochetverse? Hope over to:

http://www.raverly.com/designers/stephanie-pokorny

The post Find all the Crochetverse Patterns for Sale Here! appeared first on Crochetverse.

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