The Fendi baguette is an iconic bag that left a strong presence since release. Often credited as the first ‘It’ bag, the baguette was unleashed into the universe in 1997, infiltrating fashion and culture in the years that followed. While it’s a defining accessory of the late 90s and early 00s, 20 years on, the bag is having a renaissance – and this time, it’s for men too.
Today sees the official launch of the Fendi men’s baguette. A bulkier, slightly more boxy to the original, the bag is available in a variety of colours,black, brown, navy and canary yellow – in leather, as well as in nylon. All, of course, with the essential double FF clasp.
Fendi has released a film to celebrate the launch, starring Marc Forné, Leo Mandella and Nasir Dean.
Visiting New York in the 1970s, Paul experienced the vibrancy and energy of SoHo’s burgeoning art scene. At that time galleries like OK Harris, Pace and Leo Castelli digressed from the establishment in the Upper East Side and opened spaces in the bustle of Downtown. The city’s young artistic community relished how unconstrained their creativity could be in warehouse -like studios and with access to materials from Pearl Paint and the hardware shops that filled Canal Street.
On the catwalk an intentional scruffy elegance prevails. The personal wardrobes of the creative people that Paul came to know on his New York trips inspire the collection. At that time an artist’s tailored suit could double as overalls and self – expression through style came with your interpretation of everyday items like an oversized jacket or a customized cotton shirt.
Tailoring evolves beyond nostalgia. Function and utility are key and suits are soft and wearable in construction. The practicality of a pair of drawstring tracksuit trousers in sage nylon juxtaposes with an oversized double – breasted jacket in plongé leather, colours slightly mismatched. Double – faced quilted silk is used in men’s and women’s and pinstripes appear matte on cotton tailoring for women and with a shine on a more technical tailoring cloth for men. Throughout, suits are worn oversized with jackets longer, lapels wider and trousers higher on the rise.
The collection’s colours nod to a Pop Art palette building from pastels of dusty pink and caramel to electric hues of strong yellow and blue. A screen print floral is filled with the DIY attitude so common amongst the people Paul encountered on his Seventies trips. Flashes of a graphic rabbit are a take on Pop Artists’ re- appropriation of iconic brand logos. Famed for his love of rabbits Paul re-appropriates his own icon in Pop Art style.
The modern jazz that fills the soundtrack references Paul’s memories of loft jazz from those same early trips across the Atlantic. Contemporary musicians like Makaya McCraven pay homage to Miles Davis but are also trailblazing a new jazz sound using analogue methods to collage together tracks, true to the spirit of the artists that inspire the Paul Smith Spring/Summer ’20 collection.
Ready to set sail for summer with the Lanvin Spring/Summer 2020 collection from the runways of Paris Fashion Week Men’s. Sailing inspired for the season with ocean hues, sea motifs and colorful prints, there’s a beautiful blending of retro styling, nautical uniforms and color blocking. Gender-fluid looks were complemented with accessories that paired beautifully with each look. The entire collection had this editor ready to pack his bag and set sail in the Mediterranean.
For our ultimate collection for KENZO, the Spring- Summer 2020 collection, we looked to the home of our founder Kenzo Takada, and more specifically to the surrounding seas of Japan where groups of strong, tenacious and modern-day super-heroes plunge daily to retrieve treasures at the bottom of the ocean. The Ama are groups of Japanese female free divers, who, for over 2000 years have dived to the ocean floor to forage for seafood such as shrimp, urchins or even pearls for their communities. They train from their beginnings as teenagers, taught by their predecessors who can dive well into their 70s. Due to breath training, Ama can stay underwater for significant amounts of time in one go. Over time their numbers have declined, and these intrepid fisherwomen can now only be found sporadically in pockets along the Japanese coastlines. Withstanding harsh and sometimes freezing temperatures, they have become known as the last mermaids.
Our collections are a tapestry of elements combining traditionally marine associated garments with modern and technical diving gear. For women, neoprene suiting in orange, violet and black are juxtaposed against crushed wet-look jersey tops and dresses. Skirts in mermaid jacquard linens are adorned with pearl buttons while nylon tops in vivid colors of corals have sleeves rolled up to the shoulder. Transparent suiting complements the prints of shrimp, mermaids and sea lilies. High waisted trousers feature an assembly of embroideries, reminiscent of treasures amassed while diving. Woven ikats feature on either dresses, tops for women or as panelling on shirts and trousers for men. Tailoring in liquid viscose, sun-bleached denims and ikat prints also straddle both collections. For menswear, hardy rubberised outerwear appears in orange and violet while Hawaïan shirts abound with prints of sea lilies or urchins. Solarised cotton sweaters in indigo or dark greys walk along side tailored jackets with shawl collars and rough edges. Jackets and coats in summer linens feature sailor collars and shorts are made of high frequency lazer-cut nylons. Suits are cropped and boxy and classic ‘K’ shirts feature net panels color blocked in lilac and orange. Net prints appear in dégradé pigments on printed cotton.
In our Fall-Winter 2019 collection for KENZO, we introduced a new bag, ‘The Tali’. We revisit the Tali for Spring-Summer 2020, updating it within the themes of the new collection and we introduce a new smaller version, The Mini Tali. Skins of viper snake resemble fish scales. Dégradés recall the approaching light seen from the bottom of the ocean floor. Net straps and bumbags mirror the belt pouches used by the Ama to retrieve their rewards. Sunglasses are high performance and feature solarised lenses to protect. For women, traditional Japanese Okobo sandals in the sea-lily print walk alongside scuba sock sandals and a new unisex sneaker style, the scuba inspired K-Wave for men and women.
For Spring Summer 2020, Loewe presented an array of tunics, caftans and sailor’s shirts that were complemented with equally-flowing bottoms with the materials sourced from around the world drove home the global influence.
Among them, the hand-embroidered cotton from Bangladesh, hand-dyed indigo cloths from Burkina Faso and lenin denim from Japan were mixed with LOEWE’s own “oro cashmere” suede.
While the assortment was grounded in casual, easy pieces, the occasional tuxedo, trench coat and two-button blazer made its way into the range, reflecting the brand’s underlying tailored aesthetic.
Another great collection with a clean tailoring and a collaboration with RIMOWA.
Placed all around the venue of the show, Dior collaborated with the artist Daniel Arsham, the menswear offering is stunningly clean, blending streetwear-friendly branding with mature tailored garments.
The collection emphasizes the clean lines and a timeless color palette, Matthew M. Williams-designed hardware and Arsham-inspired wares. Seen on most of the look the elongated belts, boxy work shirts and Oblique logo undershirts crop up in the collection. In addition we saw the safari caps and wide scarves shield the wearer from the sun, while skin-tight knitwear and sheer short-sleeved shirts lend primary color pops to the proceedings. Illustrative floral separates, buttery leather jackets and draping scarf-like attachments reinforce the sumptuousness attitude that Dior trades on.
Approaching the new season, Kris Van Assche makes a colorful proposal for Berluti’s spring-summer 2020 men’s collection. The Belgian designer juxtaposes classic tailoring and streetwear-inspired pieces for the occasion. Rich pops of color add vibrancy to suits that come in a variety of fits, whether it’s a slender two-piece or a sleeveless jacket and pleated trousers. Graphic prints and gradient leathers contribute character to the lineup as well. Paying tribute to the atelier once more, Van Assche even incorporated studded details into his designs. The charming addition brings to mind the nails used by the atelier to attach uppers and soles.
It’s the morning after Woodstock ’69. The sun crosses the Catskill Mountains as the final embers of Jimi Hendrix’s torched Fender Strat float into the wind, yet the communal spirit created across those three defining days still burns.
This Spring Summer 2020 season represents a folkloric correspondence with Woodstock’s collective ideal, embracing a mindset of peace through togetherness, love and a deep connection to the heart of nature. We gather amongst a palette of earthy tones and pastel skies to pay homage to the original guitar heroes while igniting a new vanguard. At once louche and decadent, the Summer of Love liberation is echoed by relaxed tailoring that becomes contemporary stage outfits, where construction is modernized – slim to a kick flare ankle. Crochet techniques speak to artisanal craft, while embellished peace lilies flower across silk bombers.
From beatnik to bohemian, this sonic trip expands through rich suedes, velvets and desert hues. Custom-made jacquard roses trail across women’s longline coats, and silk knits are created using a unique double-weave to form an exquisite tie-dye effect. As sunset prints inform a sense of optimism and transpire alongside transcendent psychedelic florals and starry skies, large duffel bags are introduced as well as a range of leather shoulder options that resemble guitar bodies and snare drums – alluding to a nomadic lifestyle while feeding the mantra: always march to your own beat. Of particular prominence is a patchwork motif evoking Navajo blankets and symbolic of the global influences that energize the house codes. Love bead necklaces conjure Jim Morrison and romantic sheer caftans Janis Joplin, alongside original hand-airbrushed imagery authorized in cooperation with the estate of Jimi Hendrix.
50 years on, Woodstock remains an abiding symbol of counterculture freedom, humility and camaraderie – values mirrored by the Amiri family, whose hard work and kinship form the backbone of the brand.
Picture a garden filled with just one type of flower, a sunrise without sunshine, or a skyline suddenly missing its age-old spire.
Familiarity can programme the mind to take the most epic things for granted. For the Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2020 collection, Men’s Artistic Director Virgil Abloh lionises the instinctive, the habitual and the natural. Flowers, a staple element in fashion, are observed as a naturally occurring metaphor for diversity.
In bloom, they are as beautiful on a micro level as they are on a macro level.
Too often relegated to trivial motifs, flowers are wonders of nature: multi-faceted, free in expression, movement, and metamorphosis. They are the rising stars of horticulture, an equally ordinary but highly therapeutic activity, reflective of natural harmony and peace of mind. In the cityscape, flowers blend into a horizon of unsung heroes: the magnificent buildings, bridges and pavements to which we grow accustomed and partially blind. Seen in new light, or wrapped in different packaging, they emerge in newfound splendour.
On Place Dauphine, a routine stroll across Pont Neuf from the Louis Vuitton studios, the postcard scenery of Paris sets the frame for the show. The mundanity of everyday café life, walks across the Seine, crêpe stands, and tree-lined square ambience harmonises with the typical idea of boyhood bliss: a bouncy castle, ice cream, balloons, and kite-flying. The show is surrounded by the remarkable Parisian architecture we couldn’t live without.
Through the stages of boyhood, young men’s encounter with clothes and fashion is yet to be influenced by societal programming.
Our exploration of dress codes is still liberated of those codes; of social norms, gender conventions, and cultural conduct.
As we get older, we intuitively adapt to the familiarity of our surroundings. In a digital age oversaturated with views and visual data, stopping to smell the roses de-programmes the mind and makes new space for freedom of thought.
Traveling is certainly a physical activity, but it truly enlightens and enriches when it takes the form of a free-flowing, borderless meandering of the mind. Travelers who go on journeys within the realm of their own minds are capable of transcending boundaries to reach the elsewhere, expanding possibilities and imagining utopias.
As signs and traces of different cultures mingle and flow in a sartorial present that makes everything possible, an exotic utopia materializes. Differences come together and everything finds a meaning – another meaning, with an unexpected significance – in the dialogue with the other. Lines flow, colors glow as the high and the low, the bright and the earthy mingle and twine. The purity of the djellaba, the simplicity of the caftan, the human authenticity, a touch of handmade crochet and embroidery encounters the precision of the suit, the ease of flowing outerwear.
Imaginative landscapes – exotic utopias, indeed – created by artist Roger Dean, who designs the elsewhere, many elsewhere’s, in bright colors onto surfaces, materializing imagined places, making them visible, hence real.
As the journey changes the traveler, readdressing habits, gestures and views, so the act of dressing gains a lighthearted absent-mindedness: a straw hat on the head, Valentino Garavani Rockrunner Plus sneakers at the feet, practical bags in the hand. There is no final destination to the journey, which happens in the here and in the now. Utopias have the power to shape what is not there, and are charged with the urge to make it happen. The elsewhere is made possible.