TEXtalks is an international textile magazine which aims to provide it's readers a blend of the latest technological and commercial advances and publications of latest research work in the field of textiles. Their aim is not only to ensure the provision of such reading material but also to provide quality to our readers.
Reinach, Switzerland, 12 June 2019 – Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced that Vietnam-based Tuong Long Co. Ltd (“Tuong Long”) is the first denim manufacturer in Vietnam to switch 100% of its production to Archroma’s aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo.
Denim show room at Vietnam-based Tuong Long, the first denim manufacturer in Vietnam to switch 100% of its production to Archroma’s aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo.
Tuong Long Co. Ltd is a textile manufacturer based in Vietnam, whose plant is located near Ho Chi Minh City and employs 600 people producing up to 18,000,000 meters of fabric per year. Tuong Long manufactures and trades woven fabrics, particularly denim and khaki, stretch and non-stretch, for apparel brands in the USA, Japan, Europe, Korea, Taiwan, and Vietnam.
Archroma’s Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liquid dye was first launched in May 2018 as a non-toxic way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans.
Denim production line of Vietnam-based Tuong Long, the first denim manufacturer in Vietnam to switch 100% of its production to Archroma’s aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo. (Photo:
During production, some of the aniline stays locked into the indigo pigment and is difficult to wash off the fabric. The remainder of the aniline impurity, approximately 300 metric tons annually, is discharged during dyeing. This can be an issue as aniline is toxic to aquatic life. In addition, exposure levels to factory workers can be high. As a result of its toxicity (more hazardous than alkylphenols) it is now starting to feature on the restricted substance lists (RSL) of some major clothing brands and retailers.
The new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liq was therefore developed as an aniline-free* indigo solution for designers, manufacturers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration.
Weaving machine at Vietnam-based Tuong Long, the first denim manufacturer in Vietnam to switch 100% of its production to Archroma’s aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo.
“Tuong Long is engaged into manufacturing denim and khakis fabrics in a cleaner way,” comments Dieu Tuong, Production Manager at Tuong Long. “That is why we had our wastewater treatment licensed – the only factory to be in our industrial zone! So when we heard about an aniline-free* version of indigo, we decided to look into it. We then realized that Archroma’s Denisol® Pure Indigo actually is an indigo dye and as such performs just as conventional indigo – and we decided to switch 100% of our production to it.”
Archroma breaks new ground with new aniline-free* indigo for denim.
Michel Zumstein, President Region Asia at Archroma, comments: “Archroma is bringing to the textile industry a continuous flow of eco-advanced innovations aimed at making our industry sustainable. By adopting these, forward-thinking manufacturers, such as Tuong Long and its converting to aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo in their daily production, help us with that agenda. And as consumers are increasingly concerned about the climate crisis, this is not only the right thing to do – it is also good for business.”
Eco-Elite Insulation at Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2019 WILMINGTON, Del., and GREENSBORO, N.C., June 12, 2019 – DuPont Biomaterials, Unifi, Inc. and Youngone today announced a new collection of insulation products that offers soft, dimensionally stable and sustainable options for cold-weather garments and bedding materials. YOUNGONE – a leading global manufacturer of outdoor and athletic clothing, textiles, footwear and gear – is leveraging DuPont Sorona® renewably sourced fiber and Unifi REPREVE® recycled content to debut three new insulation products that provide lightweight breathable warmth with unique softness and shape retention.
ECOLoft FLEX SR (60 percent Sorona® + 35 percent REPREVE)
The ECOLoft eco-elite insulation collection is the first post-consumer recycled product that also incorporates bio-based materials for innovative, breakthrough insulation. It features three products with various benefits that all offer a reduced environmental footprint without compromising on insulation performance.
“This ECOLoft collection will elevate sustainable, high-performance insulation solutions for the outdoor market and offer brands a versatile option for cold-weather products,” said Renee Henze, Global Marketing Director for DuPont Biomaterials. “Unlike traditional down or synthetic insulation products, this offering optimizes the use of recycled and renewably sourced content for best-in-class insulation solutions, and we look forward to introducing this to the market at Outdoor Retailer.”
The ECOLoft eco-elite insulation collection features three products: – ECOLoft ActiVe SR (35 percent Sorona® + 55 percent REPREVE) – A synthetic, vertically lapped insulation that combines the warmth-to-weight of down with breathability that is defining a new category of padding and garment design options. Ecoloft ActiVe SR features more recycled + renewable content than industry peers, improved vapor management while maintaining warmth, and the compressibility and soft comfort that is ideal for active adventures.
– ECOLoft FLEX SR (60 percent Sorona® + 35 percent REPREVE) – Maximized multi-layering of REPREVE® and Sorona® fibers in the padding web create a lightweight, warm insulation designed for breathability and movement. With a lower basis weight than its peers, it offers flexibility, stretch and comfort ideal for the casual market.
– ECOLoft AIR SR (60 percent Sorona® + 40 percent REPREVE) – Voluminous natural-down-like synthetic fiberfill for puffer jackets and similar products offers notable warmth, excellent washing performance and vapor management performance for enhanced comfort.
“Both the REPREVE® and Sorona® brands are working with revolutionary products in their own class, and with this partnership, we’re joining forces to continue to innovate within the outdoor market and beyond,” said Meredith Boyd, Senior Vice President of Global Innovations for Unifi. “Through important collaborations such as this, we can drive textile innovation and help revolutionize the future of our industry.”
“These textile leaders are committed to innovation, sustainability and performance – and partnering with them will enable us to offer first-of-their-kind eco-conscious and high performing insulation products,” said Rick Fowler, CTO at Youngone. “We are thrilled to partner with such industry pioneers and launch a much-needed product in the industry.”
“The OVJA 1.1 EETT is yet another machine in our portfolio with which customers can claim to be on the winning side in keeping with our ITMA slogan ‘Stay a winner: With Mayer & Cie.’,” says Marcus Mayer, Managing Director of Mayer & Cie. in charge of technical development. “The OVJA 1.1 EETT is most definitely a premium machine and the right choice for especially exacting requirements such as multi-coloured spacer fabrics with a 3D effect or a wide range of hole structures.”
The OVJA 1.1 EETT: Pattern variety to the power of two
The new OVJA 1.1 EETT, as the EE in its name indicates in the original German, features electronic individual needle selection in the rib dial and the cylinder, both using 3-way technology and thus making jacquard structures possible on both sides of the fabric. The OVJA 1.1 EETT pairs its double electronics with bi-directional transfer and can thus knit virtually any conceivable pattern. It produces combinations of single and double jersey as well as spacer structures, while the range of hole structures is enormous due to the double transfer function. “Variety of structures is currently an important argument in the market, especially the market for circular-knitted shoe uppers,” says Mayer & Cie.’s Hardy Bühler, regional sales manager and trend scout. “The new OVJA 1.1 EETT caters for this market more than comprehensively. With this machine you can give your creativity a free rein.”
Variety written in capital letters the OVJA 1.1 EETT offers also in terms of gauges, yarn use and machine diameter. With diameters from 30 to 38 inches it knits E18 to E28 gauge fabrics and processes up to 1,200 denier yarns. The machine produces spacer fabrics of up to 5 millimetres thick in the grey goods category.
In designing the OVJA 1.1 EETT, Mayer & Cie. set great store by ease of use. “For such a complex machine ease of use is key,” says Marcus Mayer. “It widens its scope of applications to outerwear or mattress covers.” Numerous features make handling the OVJA 1.1 EETT simple. They include the new machine control and the connection to the Knitlink platform.
Circular-knitted shoe uppers: A market in its starting blocks
Circular-knitted shoe uppers for sports and leisure footwear have been an option since 2012 when they debuted at the Olympic Games, since when fabric shoe uppers have mostly been flat-knitted, with circular knitting and warp knitting a fair distance behind in joint second place. When the three techniques are compared, however, circular knitting leads the field for productivity. In addition, setup times are shorter, with the result that smaller batches can be manufactured profitably. For trend scout Bühler that is why circular-knitted shoe uppers are ready to take off – a view that leading sporting goods manufacturers share. “In circular knitting,” he says, “the market is still in its infancy and we expect the trend to really kick in soon.” It has not yet gained momentum as much as had been hoped, due in part, he says, to fashion trends. “Sneakers with several layers of leather – and not ‘fabrics’ – are the current front runner. But nothing can be relied on to change faster than fashion.”
The OVJA family: Machines for exacting tasks In addition to the new OVJA 1.1 EETT, Mayer & Cie. has another six machines in its portfolio that are suitable for making shoe uppers. All except the Technit, which produces spacer structures in four needle tracks, are OVJA jacquard machines. The OVJA 1.6 ET 3 WT, for example, is an established machine that knits hole designs thanks to its stitch transfer option. It also offers a good compromise between pattern variety and productivity. The OVJA 0.8 E is another “old hand”. Coarse jacquards are its speciality, with gauges starting from E4. A more recent addition to the family is the OVJA 1.6 EE – 3/2WT; it is especially good at producing multi-coloured designs combined with microstructure elements.
A mesh and body mapping specialist “Body mapping is the supreme discipline for an electronic single jersey jacquard machine, the 100-metres sprint, as it were,” says Marcus Mayer, Mayer & Cie. managing director in charge of technical development at the German circular knitting machine manufacturer. “In developing our MJ 3.2 E we had that same challenging task in mind and are certain that the MJ 3.2 E will be a strong contender and a powerful track ‘athlete’.”
Body mapping, like a similar structure, mesh, is much in demand in the sporting market segment. Athleisure is currently a key growth driver for circular knits. Mesh is a net-like hole pattern. A finer basic thread, usually a monofilament yarn, is responsible for the hole structure while the thicker plating thread – cotton for example – provides the requisite thick spots. Mesh structures require one-sided plating and the basic thread is invisible in the finished fabric. Mesh can serve as both a fashion and a functional element, such as by ensuring ventilation of selected body areas. Body mapping too takes the different perspiration areas of the human body into account, but double-sided plating creates the patterns. Body mapping also requires larger plain-coloured areas in the back or abdominal region. Because different colours are used, inaccuracies in the plating would be visible. Furthermore, body mapping structures almost without exception require elastomeric plating. That is the only way to achieve a body-hugging fit that also ensures a high degree of freedom of the movement.
The new MJ 3.2 E takes all these challenges into account. Reliable plating of both the basic and the plating thread is key. For both the machine can process elastomer yarn. Explaining the benefit, Marcus Mayer says that “if the basic thread is elastomer plated the knitwear is highly elastic. If the plating thread is used, the overall elastomer content of the fabric is lower and a more open structure is possible”. New cam parts and improved thread guides ensure reliable plating. The machine’s conventional sinker technology provides flexibility. This means both press off and plating are handled optimally with a wide variety of yarns and the MJ 3.2 E will always yield a high fabric quality.
One machine, three focal points The MJ 3.2 E’s capabilities extend way beyond its body mapping and mesh specialities. That is due to the machine’s 3-in-1 concept (there are two conversion kits for the MJ 3.2 E). To produce mesh and body mapping structures the machine runs on 2-way technology and 3.2 feeders per inch. It also runs on 2-way technology to achieve peak productivity for full jacquard, reaching a speed factor of up to 850. That corresponds to an up to 20 per cent higher output than that of the two established Mayer & Cie. electronic jacquard machines, the Relanit 1.6 E and the Relanit 2.4 E. Customers who focus on maximum flexibility and pattern variety can rely on the MJ 3.2 E with 1.6 feeders and 3-way technology.
Summarising, Marcus Mayer says “the MJ 3.2 E is an important addition to our machine portfolio for two reasons. For one, it produces high-quality elastomer-plated body mapping structures; for another, it enables our customers to work more productively than with our previous single jersey electronic jacquard machines.”
Mayer & Cie. machine portfolio for sporting uses Along with the new MJ 3.2 E and the two Relanit machines Mayer & Cie. has other machines in its portfolio that are peak sportswear performers. The MV4-3.2 II and the S4-3.2 produce fine-gauge knitwear made of various synthetic fibres. Both knit fine gauges, the MV4-3.2 II even up to E60, and are suitable for making running shirts, for example.
The D4 2.2 II and the D4 3.2 II, both of them double jersey machines, are also popular models for the production of sportswear. Both produce right/right structures, fine touch and different 8-lock structures. “Overall, double jersey is currently less in demand for sportswear, but its microstructures are truly impressive,” says Mayer & Cie. trend scout Hardy Bühler, adding that “the trend away from smooth surfaces is plain to see. Every user is looking for something special such as an attractive pattern. That is why honeycomb effects, double face and piqué structures are highly sought-after.”
June 2019 – The Lonati Group, a world leader in the design, manufacture and marketing of circular hosiery machines, has recently launched an absolutely innovative solution on the market that opens up new and so-far unthinkable horizons to all designers: the K-Fabric Revolution Process.
The K-Fabric Revolution Process is a further development of the Lonati Group’s technology in circular knitting machines. It transforms a circular fabric into a linear fabric, with clear advantages for Lonati customers in both fabric quality and cost-effective terms.
The K-Fabric Revolution Process meets the market requirements for increasingly shorter manufacturing times, by optimizing the production chain – from design to manufacture, including prototyping and sampling – thus making it possible to create new potentially revolutionary materials that can exploit seamless production flexibility at all levels, including the high-end of the market.
The fabric produced using this new process ensures so-far unthinkable gauges and, more importantly, a natural bi-stretch effect without adding spandex or elastane, in addition to quick-and-easy creation of jacquard patterns of any size, complexity and placement. Last but not least, the K-Fabric Revolution Process makes it possible to obtain an easy mix of fibres and rapid manufacture of economically sustainable small batches of fabric that can be easily subcontracted.
The possibility of transforming circular fabric into linear fabric makes the K-Fabric Revolution Process a new production paradigm par excellence, in order to efficiently meet both the expected increase in production demand in the high-end market segment and also changes in the supply chain models and the search for new materials.
According to the Deputy Agriculture Minister of Iran, the cotton cultivation land will increase 20pc to stand at 80,000 hectares in the existing Iranian year.
Mr Hossein Shirzad was quoted saying, “Cotton cultivation can create six times more jobs than wheat, four times more than corn and colza, and 2.5 times more than soybean production. Each job generated in a cotton plantation creates five jobs in related subsectors and services.” Furthermore, he also added that the local textile industry needs to produce approximately 120,000 tonnes of combed cotton annually.
High-end US fashion brands have become more reliant on China for manufacturing, making them more vulnerable to an increase in trade war tariffs.
According to the new US study, low-end clothing production can easily be shifted to Vietnam, Cambodia and Bangladesh, but high-end goods are still made in China. However, the average retail price of clothing manufactured in China has more than doubled since the start of the trade war and the US brands may be forced to stomach the tariff hike.
Other countries cannot yet produce in the same quantity or with the same quality as China due to technological constraints. The report shows that China’s stranglehold on the garment supply chain continues. The average retail price of clothing manufactured in China was US$25.7 per unit back in the second quarter of 2018, only slightly higher than clothing from Vietnam. A year later, China’s cost more than doubled to US$69.5 per unit.
By the end of the first quarter of 2019, the number of apparel items made in China that were held in US clothing retailers’ inventories were down more than two thirds to 8,352 stock-keeping-units (SKUs). China still dominated the US retail market as the largest supplier of new clothing items (193,774 SKUs) from the beginning of 2016 to late-April 2019.
At Techtextil and Texprocess, the textile and apparel industries displayed their most progressive side and even in challenging times inspired a positive mood throughout the sector as a result. Record numbers of exhibitors and the highest levels of international participation to date have once again confirmed Frankfurt as the sector’s global marketplace.
Techtextil and Texprocess 2019 edition became the leading international platform for users of technical textiles with the highest attendance. A total of 1,818 exhibitors from 59 countries and 47,000 trade visitors from 116 countries participated at the four day event.
Mr Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board of Messe Frankfurt said, “Over the last four days, Techtextil and Texprocess have brought together the entire world of textiles and their areas of application in Frankfurt. This double barreled trade fair had, in particular, three major things going for it: a larger number of top decision-makers, higher levels of international participation and a greater degree of satisfaction amongst exhibitors than ever before. Both exhibitors and visitors were extremely well prepared and actively took advantage of what was on offer at the two fairs, in order to drive their business forward in focused ways.”
With their innovative products, companies like Schoeller, Freudenberg, RUDOLF and Lenzing attracted designers, product managers and buyers from a host of well-known clothing manufacturers.
Mr Hendrikus van Es, Head of Protection Textiles and Member of the Senior Management Team of Schoeller Textil AG confirmed, “We had loads of people at our stand, who were looking for specific things, including many well-known brands such as Alpha Tauri, Mammut, North Face and Tommy Hilfiger.”
Mr Elgar Straub, General Manager of the Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies (TFL) division of the VDMA said, “Texprocess has inspired a very positive mood amongst suppliers. The manufacturers of sewing and apparel technology and of machinery for the processing of technical textiles and leather, have been reporting a certain reluctance to invest amongst their customers, caused by, among other things, current international trade barriers.”
And for the first time, in 2019 there were two winners of the Techtextil Innovation Award in the sustainability category.
A quick and transparent exclusion process has been urged by NCTO to raise tariff on Chinese imports worth $200 billion from 10pc to 25pc, including textile items as well as apparel in the list of retaliatory tariff.
Mr Kim Glas, NCTO president and CEO said, “We remain very concerned that finished Chinese textile home furnishings and apparel are not on the administration’s retaliatory tariff list. Chinese imports of finished goods into the U.S. market have the most significant impact on domestic textile and apparel production, investment and jobs. In order to address the crisis, we need to get to the very heart of the problem.”
According to U.S. government data, China predominantly ships end items to the U.S. versus intermediate inputs. Finished apparel, textile home furnishings and other made-up textile goods equate to 93.5 percent of U.S. imports from China in the sector, while fiber, yarn, and fabric imports from China represent only 6.5 percent.
He said, “NCTO also remains seriously concerned that some inputs critical to the competitiveness of US textile manufacturers remain on the retaliation list and will now face a 25 per cent tariff. Duty increases on inputs alone, without addressing the growing problem of end products can raise the cost of US textile manufacturers trying to compete with like Chinese products.”