In Part 2 of this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our YouTube subscribers, training clients, and more, Kris digs even deeper into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. He’ll talk about how you can track your own improvement, if and how your movement focus should change when training for sport climbing vs. bouldering, how to start training movement after coming off a break from climbing, and more. He’ll give some suggestions on how to improve your pacing and rhythm, and attempt to help us understand some of climbing’s mo ..read more

I recently sat down for a chat with Alex Honnold and the team at Climbing Gold about not only the history of Power Company Climbing, but also the history of training and coaching for climbing in general. When I first started this thing, training was taboo and everyone climbed for “the love” but somehow improving wasn’t included in that love. I think we took big steps toward helping popularize it, for better or for worse. Or some of both maybe. We get deep into the differences between coaches and trainers, where we’ve gone wrong and what we’ve done right, and Alex and I speculate on the limits ..read more

    You’re scrolling Instagram or Youtube or listening to the newest podcast episodes, and now, just today, you’ve got three new finger strength protocols to try, you learned that your footwork needs overhauling, you’re warming up all wrong, and you have to buy a few new training devices. And you have to implement it all right now, because, well, you just do. It doesn’t matter that you have no idea if anything has worked – or will work – because the next thing could be the thing, and you’ve been plateaued and need to level up right now. The good news is that you don’t have to stop c ..read more

    In this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our Patrons, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement. He’ll cover the specificity of movement principles, how our movement can be impacted by factors like wall angle and outdoor conditions, and how understanding movement is key to choosing beta. He’ll talk about how to figure out whether that crux move that’s stumping you is a matter of movement or strength, and the importance of self-assessment. Plus, hear more about the upcoming Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Co ..read more

GET THESE MONTHLY POSTS DIRECTLY IN YOUR INBOX. Email Address Sign Up Thanks! Be sure to check for a confirmation email to make sure you don’t miss one! I recently released a Board Meeting for our Patrons and subscribers in which I asked Nate to help interrogate my current thinking around a better way to learn to move. As I explained what I’ve mostly settled on as the fundamental skills, Nate asked a great question. He had just recorded an episode with Ryan Devlin from The Struggle Climbing Show, and they had discussed not knowing that certain techniques exist. So Nate wanted to know if ther ..read more

    Short climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right? Ummm, no. Not always. Actually, not even most of the time. Believing that, particularly if you’re one of those short or tall climbers, is a trap. I’m going to tell you why, and I’m going to tell you exactly how to make sure you don’t fall into this trap. Or if you’re in it already, how to get out, so that we can all extend our useful range. Ok, over the course of hundreds of in-person sessions over the past decade, I’ve met many short climbers who think they are good at getting ..read more

    Today we REWIND to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance in January, 2020. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not movement skills in climbing can even be measured reliably, and if th ..read more

    Today's episode comes from The Struggle Climbing Show and features our very own coach Nate Drolet in consultation with the show's host Ryan Devlin, who has been working hard towards a goal to climb 13a.  They'll talk movement analysis, technique improvement, and more.  This is the first of two episodes with Nate on the topic, so be sure to head over to The Struggle to hear the second part! SCHEDULE A REMOTE CONSULTATION WITH NATE EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Check out more episodes of The Struggle Climbing Show ..read more

    This episode is available exclusively to our Patrons and Apple+ Subscribers! To listen: Become a Patron! Become an Apple+ Subscriber! Kris has been exploring climbing movement through a thematic lens for a few years, and has finally settled on what he considers the Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement. In this subscribers-only Board Meeting, he presents the idea to Nate and asks for help interrogating his current thoughts. EXPLORE FURTHER You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Our Movement Practice Resource Page Board Meetings | The Art of Learnin ..read more

    Udo Neumann is a climber, performance coach, and motor-learning explorer. He’s the author of several books, including the cult classic Performance Rock Climbing.  He was the German National Team coach from 2009 to 2017, working with several European and World Champion athletes during that time, including Jan Hojer and Jule Wurm. Today he advises federations and works with athletes and coaches all over the world. In this episode, we discuss his ideas around motor learning and coaching movement, whether a coach needs to be as good as the athlete, how he assesses climbers, wh ..read more