Drafting Different Bust Cup Sizes
Dress Patternmaking
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1y ago
This article is to answer a question that I have had asked a number of times; basically "How/Where did I come up with the figures I use in Figure 2 in the Bodice Front Instructions that relate to drafting different bust cup sizes". This information is already in numerous articles on my website, but I am pulling it all together here to try to answer that question in just one article. Drafting For Different (Patternmaking) Bust Cup Sizes My instructions for drafting the Bodice Front Block has directions for including Bust Cups Sizes within the block making process.  In all of the patternmak ..read more
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Cutting Bias Strips (of Consistent Width)
Dress Patternmaking
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1y ago
For a long time I avoided using bias finish on my necklines and armholes even though  I preferred the look of bias to facings.  It wasn't only the sewing of the bias I found difficult, it was cutting the bias strips so that the width was consistent.  The methods I tried were (a) drawing chalk lines directly on the fabric, and (b) washing the fabric with starch to give it some stability.  Neither of these worked for me. Drawing chalk lines on some fabrics is very hard; you sometimes can't see the line on patterned fabric (and the instructions you see in videos or tutorials ..read more
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Fabric Burn Test Chart
Dress Patternmaking
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1y ago
If you don't know what kind of fabric you have.... I sometimes buy fabric at a thrift store, and sometimes I'm not sure what kind of fabric it is.  I don't usually use synthetic fabric for making clothing, but if it's cheap enough I'll buy it to stablise other fabric*; it is especially useful when cutting slipping fabrics like viscose, and even more so when cutting bias strips (Note: The fabric has to be really cheap to make it worthwhile, as it end up being a 'throw-away' fabric). However before using it as ''throw-away' stabilising fabric, I check by doing a burn test.  I am somet ..read more
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Ease in Patterns and Blocks
Dress Patternmaking
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1y ago
This article will give you a guide to adding ease when you want to add ease to create jackets, coats, shirts, etc.  Note that these are not step-by-step instructions for creating these garments; this article is only an overview on adding ease.  The measurements given are standards, they are not set in concrete.  Consider them a starting point.   I am limiting this article to garments created with the Bodice Block, not Skirts or Pants ..read more
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Bust Cup Sizes
Dress Patternmaking
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1y ago
Bust Cup Sizes for Blocks, Patternmaking & Commerical Patterns are not to be confused with Bra Cup Sizes. They may not be the same, and may be very different; e.g. you may be an F cup in bras, but be only a C or D cup for patternmaking.   How are Bust Cup Sizes Defined? For the purposes of block and patternmaking, bust-cup sizes are based on the difference between the measurement of your Upper Bust and your Bust.  If you subtract your high bust from your full bust, the difference determines your cup size.  ..read more
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Across Shoulder: The Gotcha
Dress Patternmaking
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1y ago
The Across Shoulder measurement is usuallydefined as;  Shoulder Tip to Centre Front Neck. The image that would accompany it would be something like the introductory image on this page, showing the Centre Front Neck to be the pit of the neck which is the top of the Bodice Block.  This measurement which is found in other patternmaking instructions (sometimes with a slightly different name) is usually shown in images as a straight line, or sometimes with a slight tilt upwards to the neck. This caused me a lot of grief.   I couldn't understand why my Bodice Front seemed wide in the ..read more
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Body Forms
Dress Patternmaking
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1y ago
Body forms can be very useful for sewing and patternmaking. The challenge is getting one that resembles your figure that is affordable.  There are a number of options: Basic Cheap Dress Form Basic cheap dress form purchased from a fabric/sewing store (such as Spotlight in Australia).  You can also buy them online.  Some of these are expandable, some not. Even the expandable ones are (in my opinion) not that good unless you have The Standard Figure.  The shortcomings are not just limited to the fit, they are the quality of the product; lightweight and not sturdy, difficult ..read more
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3D Scanning: The answer to easily getting correct measurements?
Dress Patternmaking
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1y ago
When I first heard about the 3D body scanning machines, I was excited.  I thought that this was the answer to getting exact measurements for block making.  I read about it online, and it said that the machines were free to use, and it would print out details of your measurements. When I went and tried it out, all I got was the basic measurements: Bust, Waist, and Hips.  (Note: this is in Australia, is it different in the USA or other countries?). I also got other information which I wasn't really after such as weight, percentage of body fat, waist/hip ratio, etc.  I also g ..read more
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Drafting Different Bust Cup Sizes
Dress Patternmaking
by
3y ago
This article is to answer a question that I have had asked a number of times; basically "How/Where did I come up with the figures I use in Figure 2 in the Bodice Front Instructions that relate to drafting different bust cup sizes". This information is already in numerous articles on my website, but I am pulling it all together here to try to answer that question in just one article. Drafting For Different (Patternmaking) Bust Cup Sizes My instructions for drafting the Bodice Front Block has directions for including Bust Cups Sizes within the block making process.  In all of the patternmak ..read more
Visit website
Cutting Bias Strips (of Consistent Width)
Dress Patternmaking
by
5y ago
For a long time I avoided using bias finish on my necklines and armholes even though  I preferred the look of bias to facings.  It wasn't only the sewing of the bias I found difficult, it was cutting the bias strips so that the width was consistent.  The methods I tried were (a) drawing chalk lines directly on the fabric, and (b) washing the fabric with starch to give it some stability.  Neither of these worked for me. Drawing chalk lines on some fabrics is very hard; you sometimes can't see the line on patterned fabric (and the instructions you see in videos or tutorials always seem to sho ..read more
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