#121: The Apprentice
Different Parts of Everywhere
by Dea & Chris
4y ago
PERU, 3rd-7th November 2019 “You’re very tall,” I said to Max as I welcomed him off his bus from Lima onto the busy streets of Churin. His was very tall, surprisingly so (that’s why I said it), but I hoped he didn’t take it the wrong way. It was, after all, the way I greeted beautiful blonde girls that I wanted to seduce, something Max would know very well as someone who had read my books and even proclaimed them a motivation for him to pursue his own journey around the world by bicycle. It was a journey that had already had one false start: earlier in the year he’d ridden from his home in Mai ..read more
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#120: How the hell did I ever manage to do this alone?
Different Parts of Everywhere
by Dea & Chris
4y ago
PERU, 28th October – 1st November 2019 It turned out I was not very good at cycling without Dea. It had been barely an hour since we’d said our first goodbye and the 12 kilometre cycle to Margos was not going at all well. I’d failed to restock on water before leaving town, thinking I would just find some from a stream and purify it, as we’d done the previous days. Unfortunately all of the streams I passed were muddy and the water didn’t look at all appealing, even with the addition of purification tablets. So I just kept on going, hoping to find clean liquid somewhere, as the road began to ..read more
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#119: I had to try…
Different Parts of Everywhere
by Dea & Chris
4y ago
PERU, 26th – 28th October 2019 I had been longing for this moment for months. To cycle the quiet and tough mountain dirt roads in Peru had been a dream since we began cycling south through South America, something of a highlight and a promise of once again cycling and camping in these remote and wild places, that are so rare on this planet. My now long lasting wrist problems had had this dream hanging by a thin thread for nearly two months, but since I had managed to get through the first week of cycling with only minor discomfort I was optimistic that I was well on my way easing back into ..read more
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#118: In which we return to the Andes
Different Parts of Everywhere
by Dea & Chris
4y ago
PERU, 11th-25th October 2019 After three rest days in Pucallpa (we really did need a rest after that last boat journey) we were finally ready to get back on our bikes, with a continuous four and a half months of cycling ahead of us to Buenos Aires, all being well. Our time in Pucallpa had been usefully spent, finding some plastic sheeting to act as a temporary replacement for our lost tent flysheet, and ordering a new tent to provide a more permanent solution. We’d ordered the tent to Maine, which wasn’t exactly on our route, but would be kindly brought to us by a Maine resident named Max ..read more
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#117: Taking the Ucayali River from Iquitos to Pucallpa
Different Parts of Everywhere
by Dea & Chris
4y ago
PERU, 24th September – 11th October 2019 Iquitos is the largest inland city in the world that is not accessible by road. You can only get to it by plane or by boat, or by hacking your way through the jungle, I suppose, if you’re into that. We’d taken boats of course, in case you’re not keeping up, down from Coca in Ecuador, and at some point we would be continuing south to Pucallpa where we could find a road again. We’d have to do this second leg of our river journey on one of the slow cargo boats, five days of non-stop heat and noise, crammed in with scores of other passengers, many of whi ..read more
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#116: Taking the Napo River from Coca to Iquitos
Different Parts of Everywhere
by Dea & Chris
4y ago
ECUADOR-PERU, 21st-24th Septemer 2019 We were down at the riverfront in plenty of time to board the first boat of our river journey. This boat was a rapido, a fast, sleek passenger ferry that would take us from Coca, where the road ended, to Nuevo Rocafuerte, the last town in Ecuador, in about seven hours or so. We’d already bought our tickets a few days earlier for $30 each, which seemed like a good deal considering it also included passage into Peru the following morning too, though we weren’t sure what was going to happen with the bikes. But figuring out what to do at the crowded docksid ..read more
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#115: Who knew it would rain in the rainforest?
Different Parts of Everywhere
by Dea & Chris
4y ago
ECUADOR, 27th August – 20th September 2019 After taking a couple of days off to give Dea’s wrist a little chance to recover, we rode the last 28 kilometres to Tumbaco. We opted to take the highway, which was in some ways a shame as it meant we missed out on a gravel bicycle path, but it proved to be the right choice to protect Dea’s wrist as there was a good shoulder and even a paved bike path for the last few kilometres to Tumbaco. This town just east of Quito was destined to be our home for the next couple of weeks, and more specifically we would be staying at the casa de ciclistas run by ..read more
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#114: Time for a change?
Different Parts of Everywhere
by Dea & Chris
4y ago
ECUADOR, 21st-26th August 2019 “I know that guy! That was Gerald!” Dea exclaimed suddenly. “Yes, I think it was,” I concurred, having noticed the long blonde hair as it passed the open door of our hotel room on its way to the bathroom, and now again on the way back, I was confident it was Gerald. He was one half of an Austrian couple who, defying the odds created by their landlocked nation, were keen surfers. We’d met them way back in El Salvador and not really kept in touch, yet if our suspicions were correct the universe had by some bizarre coincidence now placed them in the room next to ..read more
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#113: Into Ecuador
Different Parts of Everywhere
by Dea & Chris
4y ago
ECUADOR, 16th-20th August 2019 The border between Colombia and Ecuador was one of the most extraordinary we’d been through, particularly on the Ecuadorian side, where the immigration building and its surroundings had the look of a makeshift refugee camp. Everywhere sat families with their backs propped up by their meagre possessions, kids running around, their little faces dirtied from life on the road. This appeared to be a sticking point for those heading south, entry into Ecuador was not guaranteed, and it was with a little embarrassment that we were shepherded to a special line where ou ..read more
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#112: Taking on the Andean mountains
Different Parts of Everywhere
by Dea & Chris
4y ago
COLOMBIA, 7th-16th August 2019 We had a couple of possible escape routes from the predicament presented by my bad stomach and the limited amount of time we had left in Colombia. The first was to apply for an extension to the 90 days we were permitted to stay in the country. We could even apply for this online, and we did so from our Isnos hotel, but it would be at least a day before we would hear anything back. The other was to scrap the Trampoline of Death and go directly south to a different border into Ecuador that went down into the Amazon Basin and didn’t involve nearly so much climbin ..read more
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