"SKIRTS.  Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half breadths in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made : they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin." - The Workwoman's Guide, 1838 (page 104)  Back to blogging after an unintended 7-month hiatus!  In this second post for today, I will be documenting how I made a new set of tucked petticoats, and providing a step-by-step tutorial for making your own plain or tucked petticoats, appropriate for 1830s-50s impressions.   Be ..read more

 My goodness, it has been a month of Sundays since my last blog post!  Fear not, the blog has not been entirely abandoned, as I do still believe long-form content to have its place and value - especially for teaching new sewists and even as a reference for those with decade(s) of experience.  Though, I confess my updates will continue to be more regular over on my Instagram @youngsewphisticate and Facebook Page - so if you don't already, you might consider following there to stay up to date with the latest adventures and projects. For my few, but dedicated blog followers, today ..read more

As I'm preparing for a busy Fall season of fashion and other programming, I realized we left off (way back in March!) with the making of the skirt and draperies for a three-piece, c.1883-86 plaid ensemble.  Not only did I finish the ensemble last Spring, I've worn it to two events - presenting "Getting Dressed in the 1880s" at the Niagara County Federation of Historical Agencies, and Spring Teas at the Rich-Twinn Octagon House.  In fact, I'll be doing another 1880s "Getting Dressed" program in November for the Wilson Historical Society, and will probably bring it out again with some ..read more

Following on the heels (sorry, couldn't resist the shoe pun!) of my last blog post on the Making on an 1820s Morning Dress, I wanted to spotlight the two accessories that really made the ensemble complete: the beribboned cap and slippers with bow clips and hand-dyed tassels!   More is more with ruffles, ribbons, and bows!  Beribboned cap If you've been following me for a while, you know I'm all about those big, ruffly, and beribboned caps of the Regency through Romantic eras!  I don't think I'll ever tire of making or wearing them...they're just so ridiculous and ..read more

I made a morning - not to be confused with "mourning" - dress or wrapper, which is a garment intended to be worn in the privacy of ones home, or before getting more properly dressed into an afternoon or "walking" dress.  With now two "Getting Dressed in the 1820s" presentations coming up - in both August and October 2023 - I wanted something to throw on for modesty and comfort, before dressing in front of a live audience.  This blog post details the inspiration behind, construction of, and then styling of an early-1820s morning dress:  Historical Inspiration Before diving int ..read more

This is the year we're finally making the plaid 1880s bustle dress!  In 2022, I finished the underpinnings for the project - including a lobster tail bustle, underpetticoat, and flounced petticoat - and today I'm sharing the completed skirt and draperies of what will be a three-piece, c.1883-86 plaid ensemble.   As my lovely patrons already know, I have a deadline of an upcoming "Getting Dressed in the 1880s" presentation in April for the Niagara County Federation of Historical Agencies!  My session is bright and early at 9am to kick off the annual convention, which means ..read more

My first completed - and now blogged about - sewing project of 2023 is an 1820s corded petticoat!  If you've been following along over on the Facebook page and Instagram @youngsewphisticate, you'll know that I've been working on a few projects simultaneously, including a plaid 1880s ensemble and the beginnings of an early-1820s wardrobe.  Both projects are for "getting dressed" programs later this year (the details of which are still secrets!) - and while it seems silly (overwhelming perhaps?) to take on two new eras, I need the challenge to keep pushing my sewing skills.&nb ..read more

It is a truth universally acknowledged, that a single petticoat must be accompanied by at least a second petticoat, if not more, to provide the proper support for a fashionable overskirt.  When we last left off, I had completed an 1880s flounced petticoat, and decided that I needed a second, shorter petticoat to complete my Bustle Era undergarment set: Completed 1880s petticoat with decorative flounce, intended to be worn under a bustle. Construction Details My "underpetticoat" is constructed very similarly to the flounced petticoat of my last post, so I won't go into too much d ..read more

Is it just me - or do you also enjoy making fancifully trimmed underclothing, even though they're rarely meant to be seen?  Following the construction of my lobster tail bustle, the next layer was naturally an 1880s petticoat, and to make it pretty, I had to add a flounce with whitework trim! Making an 1880s Flounced Petticoat with Whitework Trim. "Four Gore Skirt" from the Delineator, 1888 (left); and my reproduction petticoat (right). Historical Inspiration Petticoats in the Bustle Era served to soften the lines created by shelf-like bustles and to support the overskirt.&nb ..read more

There comes a time in every historical costumer's life when they decide to leave comfort behind and dive into a new era's clothing...which means building the look from the undergarments, out.  That's right - it's BUSTLE time!  And to start, I made an 1880s "lobster tail" style bustle: Making an 1880s "Lobster Tail" Bustle.  MET Museum Original on the left, my reproduction on the right. Historical Inspiration When the bustle came back in 1883 for what is referred to as the Late Bustle or Second Bustle Era (1883-1889), it was bigger and better than before.  Fundamen ..read more