Originally published in DUTCH the Magazine, September/October 2023 If sustainable transport is the wave of the future, Amsterdam has been riding the crest for decades. With the 2023 debut of two cutting-edge bicycle parking facilities built not on land or underground, but underwater, the city has again climbed on board an ongoing swell of public sentiment for a cycling-centric urban center built around the needs of people and human-powered transport, not cars.  Opened in January 2023 with parking for 7,000 bikes, the Stationsplein garage is literally under the water of the tour-boa ..read more

Originally published in DUTCH, the Magazine, July/August 2023 Like a fraternal twin with shared DNA but wildly different in personality and style, Rotterdam is the visual antithesis of Amsterdam. Rather than Golden Age canal mansions, futuristic glass towers line its canals, creating a modern skyline more typical of an American metropolis than any Dutch city. With sleek high-rises on opposite sides of the Nieuwe Maas River and a montage of eclectic architecture, the Netherlands’ second largest city has evolved into an urban showcase of experimental design that’s both daring and sustainable. Th ..read more

Originally published in DUTCH the Magazine, May/June 2023 Four centuries ago, there were no Etos drugstores or neighborhood pharmacies in the Netherlands. Rather than paracetamol and other modern medicine, 17th-century doctors prescribed holistic cures. Like their Asian counterparts, who’d remedied illness with plant-based treatments for some 5,000 years, Dutch medical professionals relied on herbs and plant extracts, not man-made drugs developed in scientific laboratories, to relieve patients’ ills in the Golden Age. While researching medicinal herbs, surgeons also sought therapies for diseas ..read more

An “island getaway” is hardly the way most people would describe a visit to Amsterdam. Better known for its buzzing vibe and plethora of cultural attractions than for white sand beaches and swaying palms, the Dutch capital boasts far more museums, historic landmarks, bars and coffeeshops than it does enclaves of calm serenity. Thankfully, there are places to chill in peace if you know where to look. When the stream of tourists, bikes, trams and ever-present marijuana smoke begins to overwhelm you in the Dutch capital, an escape to bucolic Prinseneiland might be just what you need. While it’s b ..read more

The 2021 Addition to Amsterdam’s Jewish Cultural Quarter Gives Nazi Victims Their Names Back Stroll along Amsterdam’s Weesperstraat and you’ll find yourself on a wide, two-lane thoroughfare lined with modern buildings, contemporary work spaces, a four-star hotel, and a sprinkling of stores and restaurants. Traffic lights, street markings and bike lanes efficiently manage the flow of cars, trams, bikes and pedestrians on the 20th-century boulevard just east of the Amstel River, on the edge of Amsterdam’s multicultural Plantage and Weesper districts. Rewind the clock nearly a century and an enti ..read more

According to flag design guru Roman Mars, the Netherlands’ most badass city flies the coolest flag not only in the country, but also the entire world. In a 2015 TED talk about vexillology (the study of flags), design guru/flag fanatic Roman Mars confirmed what few Amsterdammers would dispute: the Dutch capital flies the most badass city flag in the world. For those confused about the meaning of badass (American slang that came into vogue in the 1950s), the Oxford English Dictionary defines it as “formidable” or “superlative” when used to describe something. Compared to such dismal attempts ..read more

In a nation of painters—from Golden Age masters like Rembrandt to icons of the 19th century like Van Gogh—statues have taken a back seat. Indeed, after the rise of Protestantism in the 16th century, most Dutchies adopted Calvin’s views about the evils of idolatry: since flawed humans would inevitably worship manmade creations over their own creator, religious statues became blasphemous in one of society’s primary arbiters: church. After the new Protestant Dutch government outlawed Catholicism in the 17th century, the only churches with statues were hidden ones like Ons’ Lieve Heer op So ..read more

Iconic Churches, Temples and Mosques Reveal a Turbulent Past Amsterdam’s reputation as a party city fueled by sex, drugs ‘n’ rock & roll might lead the casual observer to believe its inhabitants worship the devil. Yet the Dutch capital’s iconic churches, temples and mosques tell a different story—one that reveals a long history of religious conviction, strife and pragmatic tolerance. For centuries, the Netherlands has been a haven for rebels and free thinkers, many fleeing religious persecution. Dutchies who rose up against the Catholic Church in the Eighty Years’ War (1568–1648) were part ..read more

Why settle for grabbing coffee and a croissant from a neighborhood bakery when there are so many options for a satisfying, sit-down brunch in Amsterdam? Six Spots for a Super Brunch in the Dutch Capital While Dutchies may start the day with havermout (oatmeal), hagelslag (chocolate sprinkles) on buttered toast, or a few slices of ontbijtkoeken (a gingerbread-like cake), there are plenty of options for hearty breakfast fare in Amsterdam. Numerous restaurants offer all-day brunch menus. Some take reservations, others have a first-come, first-served policy that can entail a significant ..read more

Amsterdam is world-renowned for the works of Vermeer, Rembrandt, Van Gogh and other Dutch masters of the 17th century and beyond. Yet its cultural scene extends to contemporary creatives who’ve left their marks on walls, warehouses, apartment buildings, public sidewalks and urban utilities. Spanish street artist Andrea Michaelsson, aka Btoy, turns a utility meter into art in Amsterdam’s Nieuw-West. By tagging the city, street artists can maintain a sense of anonymity while expressing their creative visions and messages of resistance, protest and hope. Along the way, many develop di ..read more