Some Notes on Sarees
My Textile Notes
by Priyank
9M ago
1. The modern wearing style of saree was invented in 1862 by Rani Gyanodanandini Tagore, wife of Satyandranath Tagore, who was the elder brother of Rabindranath Tagore.  2. Saree Parts: How they are named in different states of the country.  State Saree Border Body/Ground Outer end-piece Inner end-piece Selvedge End Fringe Parting-stripe of warp without Weft Sari Fold Kerala Pudva Kara Udal Mundani, Anchalam Ullattam Vakka Allukk Madak Karnataka Seere, Bond Kinar, Anchu, Patta Nadamu, Maidan Seregu, Pallav Lopala Kongu Ginta Javana, Jamada, Jawla Baddi, Badi Athari, Badha ..read more
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Difference between Salem Kanjivaram and Dharmavaram Kanjivarams
My Textile Notes
by Priyank
9M ago
Kanjivarams for commercial use are mainly made in Salem and Dharmavaram clusters.  In Dharmavaram, zari is used both/either in warp and weft, usually mixed with Resham. In Salem, Resham ( Silk is used in warp and weft). In salem, brocades are created using extra thread figuring. Also Kuttu pallu is used in Dharmavaram in most of the sarees for creating contrast colors in pallu. In salem, tie-and-dye  is used for the same. Also in Salem Butas are used in the sarees, as compared to Dharmavarams that use brocades.  Buy my books at Amazon.com Buy my books at Amazon.com ..read more
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Polishing in Kanjivaram Sarees
My Textile Notes
by Priyank
9M ago
Polishing involves application of gum and winding the saree onto cloth rolls. The aim is to put the stiffness in the fabric.  Polishing in Salem Kanjivaram sarees is done only for Powerloom sarees after they are made. The Gaund ( Gum ) is applied by hand after the saree is made before it is wound on the square planks. Then it is made to dry in the sunlight for about six hours.  For handloom sarees, it is applied while it is made. After every one feet or more of weaving. The gum ( Pasai) is applied.  Buy my books at Amazon.com Buy my books at Amazon.com ..read more
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Costing of a Typical Handloom Kanjivaram Saree
My Textile Notes
by Priyank
10M ago
Weavers ( piecework)                                                              :                2500 x 10 = 25000 Rs. Zari Mark for Sarees 10 Sarees Warp                                  ..read more
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All About Zari in Kanjivaram Sarees
My Textile Notes
by Priyank
10M ago
These are the following qualities of zari used in Kanjivaram  and Varanasi Sarees. First lets understand some terms related to zari: 1 Mark: 4 spools with net weight of 240 grams ( Total weight comes out to be 311 grams). One spool contains 2800 to 3000 yards length.   1. Tested or Plastic Zari or Metallic Zari This type of zari is purely artificial in which fused plastic is coated with metal like aluminum. This metallized sheet is dyed in various colors according to the requirements and converted into thin tapes, which are finally wound on a core of polyester, viscose or nyl ..read more
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How to Test for Pure Zari in Kanjivaram and other Sarees
My Textile Notes
by Priyank
1y ago
A few testing laboratories in Kanchipuram provide this service. This is what this portal has to say about the testing method: In order to build the confidence and credibility among the customers and in the industry about the quality of zari in silk fabrics, testing is very important and much required.  Hitherto, for testing metal contents in zari, destructive method of testing has been carried out.  Now, the testing of zari samples and zari made fabric are carried out by Non-destructive testing (XRF Analyser), which is a unique one.  The technical know-how of the project was j ..read more
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What is Single, 1.5, double warp in Kanjivaram Sarees
My Textile Notes
by Priyank
1y ago
1. Kanjivaram Sarees Use 20-22 denier 3 ply filaments.  2. Single warp means 100 ends per inch. For a 49 inches loom, the number of ends in a single warp is 4900.  3. 1.5 warp means 150 ends per inch. For a 49 inches loom, the number of ends in a 1.5 inches warp is 7350.  4. Double warp means 200 ends per inch. For a 49 inches loom, the number of ends in a 2 inches warp is 9800.  5. Generally, the number of picks are more for single warp, then for 1.5 warp or double warp.  6. Generally 72, 74, 76 PPi is used.  Buy my books at Amazon.com Buy my books at Amazon.c ..read more
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What are the Various Wild Silk Yarns
My Textile Notes
by Priyank
2y ago
Source Reeled Tussar/ Tussar Raw Silk: It is reeled from Tussar cocoons using different appliance. Reeled Tussar is finer in nature. TussarGicha: Yarn drawn by hand out of Tussar cocoons without any twist. Tussar Katia: Yarn spun out of Tussar waste after opening and cleaning. Tussar Jhuri: Yarn spun out of uncleaned Tussar waste without subjecting it to opening and cleaning process. Balkal yarn: Yarn spun out of Tussar cocoon peduncles, after boiling in alkaline solution and opened up. Tussar Spun Silk: Yarn spun in the mill out of Tussar silk waste. Muga Raw Silk: Yarn reeled from Mu ..read more
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How Cocoons are measured in Wild Silk ( Vanya Silk)
My Textile Notes
by Priyank
2y ago
 Tussar Cocoons: The unit of measurement of tussar cocoons is Kahan. Number of Cocoons per Kahan vary in different states. In MP one Kahan has 1000 cocoons while in Maharashtra it has 4000 Cocoons.  About 1200 cocoons are required to produce one kg of yarn.  ERI The Eri cocoons are measured on the basis of weight ( kg) MUGA The Muga cocoons are transacted in thousand numbers. About 5000 cocoons are required to produce 1 kg of Muga Raw Silk. Source Buy my books at Amazon.com ..read more
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What do you Mean by Vanya Silk
My Textile Notes
by Priyank
2y ago
 Non mulberry silks such as Tussar, Muga and Eri are called Vanya silks.  Production Trends ( 2010-11) Vanya Silk contributed to about 20% of the total raw silk in India. Eri, Tussar and Muga contributed to about 64%, 33% and 3% of the total Vanya silk It contributes to about 10% of the total exports of silk goods  Tussar Silk Silk Worm : Antheraea mylitta and Antheraea proylei Feed on: Asan,  Arjun and Oak India is the second largest producer or Tussar Silk History: Ram's nuptial gift to Sita included Tussar Silk Muga Silk Silk Worm : Antheraea assamensis Feed on: Som and ..read more
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