The use of the term “plant-based” diet has been incredibly popular and trendy, especially in recent years. However, “plant-based” has no explicit definition. The term can be used to describe anything from vegan to semi-vegetarian—meaning a diet may include limited amounts of animals foods including fish, dairy, and meat. For the sake of avoiding confusion [...] The post Plant-Based Nutrition Basics for Climbers appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more

This coming Monday the 20th, I'll be hosting a group mindset coaching session where I'll help you decrease performance anxiety in climbing. Here are the details: Performance Anxiety Workshop It'll be a live call on Zoom for about 75 minutes. In the first 15 minutes I'll talk about the common ways performance anxiety shows up [...] The post How to Feel Less Resentful about Being a Short Climber ( Cloned ) appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more

I'll just come out and say it: being a short climber can be very frustrating. As a 5'0" climber with a negative 1" ape index, I regularly watch people skip through my crux moves and easily reach holds that are full lock-offs for me. Witnessing this kind of thing can evoke all kinds of emotions, [...] The post How to Feel Less Resentful about Being a Short Climber appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more

My winter hasn’t exactly gone according to plan. I went down to Hueco in early January to escape the depths of Wyoming winter and get a strength and power dose on some of my favorite boulders on the planet.  Initially, I felt strong and with a month-long stay planned, I was confident it would be [...] The post Reexamining Major Jumps in Climbing Performance: Success Leaves Tracks appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more

Recently, I wrote to the TrainingBeta email subscribers about how I was changing up my training for the winter and how switching back to bouldering for a bit during the late fall had reinvigorated my psyche after a disappointing fall sport climbing season. I wrote that piece while I was in the midst of training [...] The post What to Actually Invest in for Climbing Training: Matt Pincus appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more

In my nutrition sessions with climbers, I ask a lot of very personal questions: when do you eat, when do you poop every day, DO you poop every day, how much do you sleep? Through all of this questioning, I've discovered that most people I work with have trouble sleeping (and if you're wondering, most [...] The post How to Sleep Better So You Can Climb Better appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more

Most climbers get injured at some point, and most climbers go through some mental and emotional turmoil when that happens. We lament the fact that we somehow did this to ourselves and that our bodies aren't strong enough to withstand difficult things. Then we wonder what in the WORLD we're going to do instead of [...] The post 3 Ways to Stay Sane When You’re Injured and Can’t Climb appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more

When I was in my 20's, a woman in her 50's said to me, "The best part about menopause is that you stop giving a crap what other people think of you. I finally feel free to do what I want and be who I am." I was so envious... While I'm not menopausal, I [...] The post Questions to Ask Yourself if You’re Burnt Out on Climbing and Life appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more

I've been hearing from a lot of climbers lately that they're not happy with their climbing. They've lost the joy they used to experience when they first started and they don't know how to get it back. They think they "should" be climbing harder grades, with less fear, and more quickly than they currently are. [...] The post How to Get Your Joy Back in Climbing by Neely Quinn, CPC appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more

I was talking with Alex Stiger about my climbing goals and training plans this year and she said something that keeps echoing in my mind that I wanted to share with you: "When you train, you kind of go crazy with it and do all the things, and then by the time you're ready to [...] The post The Key Thing That’s Been Missing from My Training All Along appeared first on TrainingBeta ..read more