French wine covers the whole gamut, from varieties exported worldwide to obscure grapes that almost no one has heard of; you can probably imagine which category Picardan falls into! However, this is esoteric on a different level: just a few parcels are left in the southern Rhône Valley, primarily in the appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Few, if any, consumers would recognize Picardan Blanc; it has absolutely no commercial value in the vineyards of southern France. And yet, here we are, talking up one of the rarest grapes in western Europe. Of course, it’s all part of the local color. F ..read more

This year, more than ever, consumers will seek relative value and excitement when choosing wine. Trend-conscious understand what we’re talking about; comfort zones and ‘old favorites’ are out, and esoteric styles and unexplored regions are in vogue. The demand for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and Prosecco is as buoyant as ever in global terms. But the ranks of oenophiles willing to explore beyond established classics is growing all the time. In which case, allow us to present Petit Manseng. This beautiful white grape ticks all the boxes: Petit Manseng is not widely recognized; it is far from u ..read more

In the great pantheon of European wine nations, France stands alone. For centuries, L’Hexagone has pulled off a remarkable feat: viticultural diversity. Unlike Spain, Germany, and Italy, France has maintained a multi-faceted wine portfolio since the beginning, exporting red and white wines to eager clients worldwide. Of course, we do not wish to belittle Spain’s progress in making aromatic white styles or marginalize Germany’s rising reputation as a producer of fine Pinot Noir. Italy’s Franciacorta, meanwhile, can now rival the best Champagnes in quality and finesse. But these are relatively n ..read more

Critics, buyers, and journalists have been scratching their heads over Riesling. It is universally regarded as one of the world’s finest white grapes – the antithesis of Chardonnay in every way imaginable. Unoaked, saline, and aromatically complex, Riesling should be the star of the hospitality sector. Yet consumers remain, at best, largely indifferent to the grape, except for a small number of enthusiasts and collectors. It just doesn’t make sense: why has Riesling been outflanked by Sauvignon Blanc, Spain’s Albarino, and other aromatic styles at every turn? Germany is partly to blame for th ..read more

For centuries, winemakers in Bordeaux have blended Semillon with Sauvignon Blanc to produce whites of impeccable balance and finesse. However, until very recently, it was only the Australians who routinely used Semillon to make great dry wine without a supporting act; the Bordelais have a powerful cultural attachment to blending, partly as an insurance policy against disastrous harvests. Yet after a succession of warm and very dry vintages, winegrowers are starting to see the merit of 100% Semillon Bordeaux Blanc. Such wines, thus far, do not represent the critical mass. Nevertheless, it has ..read more

The French Basque Country holds many secrets, not least a smattering of indigenous varieties that seldom make international headlines. Chief among these is Courbu, known as Hondarrabi Zuri on the Spanish side of the border. In the verdant hills of Hondarribia and beyond, the grape is used to make Txakoli – this tongue-twister of a white wine is brimming with citrus fruit and bags of acidity. Poured from a great height by the old pros of San Sebastian and Bilbao, it offers a wonderful counterpoint to Basque cuisine – particularly fresh seafood. The only problem is that a glass slips down all to ..read more

Burgundy myopia is a long-established trait amongst the world’s collectors and connoisseurs. Indeed, a wealth of superlative white wine is being made across France today, yet the secondary market has traditionally remained aloof. Just ask fine wine expert Olivier Gasselin, who observes that: “I haven’t seen much evidence of market diversification in recent times. There are very few wines of a similar calibre to white Burgundy around.” Au contraire Gasselin, there is a white wine nestling in the hills of the northern Rhône valley that can rival Montrachet in everything but price. It’s called H ..read more

Pinot Gris has been unfairly typecast as quaffable weekend drinking: bland, inoffensive, and unfailingly polite. Its reputation was made as the second-cheapest option on the wine list – hardly a ringing endorsement. Unfortunately, some blame must be laid at the door of our Italian friends. Pinot Grigio (as it’s known in Italy) is one of Europe’s most powerful wine ‘brands,’ with sizable volumes made across Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Trentino-Alto Adige, and Veneto. For many consumers, neutral and crisp white wine is all the variety is capable of. “C’est n’importe quoi,” as they say in Paris. On t ..read more

If Californian Chardonnay represents one end of the white variety spectrum – structured, opulent, and very ripe – Melon de Bourgogne is the polar opposite. Saline, fragrant, and inevitably drunk young, Melon de Bourgogne is part of a noble family of light-bodied, aromatic varieties. Its closest relatives are Riesling, Sylvaner, and Aligoté, styles that offer racy acidity, piercing minerality, and moderate alcohol. They are usually made without oak influence and bottled very early in life. Some would describe these grapes as ‘straightforward’ or ‘one-note,’ yet they have delivered ple ..read more

It is generally agreed that the best sparkling wines come from cool climates. All over the world, producers seek out the chilliest spots that offer a facsimile of the climate – and soil – in Champagne. Without wanting to insult anyone’s individuality, it could be said that a critical mass of fizz is made in the image of Champagne, if not precisely its likeness. From Carneros to Franciacorta in northern Italy, you don’t have to look hard to discover French lookalikes: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blends have become the global standard for premium bubbly. Yet there are exceptions to this rule. The ..read more