No Remorse 8c
Dave MacLeod Blog
by Dave MacLeod
2w ago
A few years ago I bolted a brilliant line across the big roof on Beinn an Lochain, but never got round to trying it. After I returned to the crag on a flying visit with Magnus Midtbø, I was a bit captured by the crag and bolted and climbed several other new lines, cleaned several more of the existing lines, and then got to work on the big roof. It was as much a battle with the terrible summer rain as anything else. But I was delighted with the end result - No Remorse, a really cool 8c. This video shows it off, looking good in even the worst of the July Monsoon. Thank you so much to all of yo ..read more
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Can you succeed in climbing without specialisation?
Dave MacLeod Blog
by Dave MacLeod
2M ago
I’ve always tried to be an all round climber in terms of performance. But just because you spread yourself thinly across disciplines in performance doesn’t mean you should do the same in training. In this video about a lovely and hard project, I explore the results of an adventure in specialising to try and improve my skills as a generalist. It was a rough ride! My course on climbing technique is out now on Altitude. As part of the launch week, I’m doing a live Q&A tomorrow night (August 5th). Please do join us ..read more
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Why I don't get nervous attempting hard routes
Dave MacLeod Blog
by Dave MacLeod
2M ago
Some climbers don't believe me when I say I don't get nervous before attempts on hard routes. Here I explain how I do it. If you are interested in some more coaching content from me, my course on climbing movement technique on Magnus Midtbø’s platform Altitude is about to open: https://altitudeclimbing.com/davemacleod ..read more
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Should you drink AG1?
Dave MacLeod Blog
by Dave MacLeod
4M ago
Should you drink the green supplement drink AG1? Or is the obvious alternative actually far superior? In this episode, I discuss several papers linked below: https://doi.org/10.1016/S2352-3026(23)00160-6 10.1016/S2214-109X(22)00367-9 https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-019-04157-y https://doi.org/10.3390/life13102007 10.1016/j.jsams.2019.12.027 https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/VitaminD-HealthProfessional/ 10.1113/JP270654 PMC6413849 https://doi.org/10.3389/fnut.2022.806566 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tjnut.2022.10.016 ..read more
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What Instagram can't teach you about breaking a plateau
Dave MacLeod Blog
by Dave MacLeod
4M ago
Social media is geared up to distort the realities of training, detraining and breaking through plateaus. Sure, skills and milestones can be acheived quickly and it's important to see demonstrations of how effective a singular goal and plan to achieve it can be. However, some plateaus (not those caused by lack of training) are not generally broken in this way. I just posted up a new YouTube video exploring my own efforts to break a plateau, with a few very simple ideas that I try to keep in mind, which in my view are underrepresented on social. All told through the story of a winter of serial ..read more
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Hardcore new routing with Dave MacLeod Magnus Mitdbø
Dave MacLeod Blog
by Dave MacLeod
5M ago
For about 6 months I’ve been working with Magnus Mitdbø on a course for his platform Altitude. My course is on movement technique for climbers and it releases in a few days time. If you’d like to see a free video series from the course, focused on footwork, you can check it out here. Anyway, Magnus said he wanted to come over to Scotland for a couple of days climbing. Despite a stormy forecast, I was determined as always to climb outside. I also really wanted to get on some new routes. We had a wild day trying some projects in Arrochar. I didn't expect the wind to be quite that strong ..read more
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My setting process for endurance circuits
Dave MacLeod Blog
by Dave MacLeod
7M ago
It's been a long time since I bought some new holds for the board. It was time for some fresh circuits and I go through my process for setting and designing the layout of the board ..read more
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How I grade hard trad routes
Dave MacLeod Blog
by Dave MacLeod
7M ago
Trad grades - they are inexact, hard to pin down and cause folk lots of confusion. In this video I discuss how I grade trad routes and how I insulate myself from the controversies that often accompany them. I also offer a grade for Echo Wall on Ben Nevis ..read more
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Training with a finger injury
Dave MacLeod Blog
by Dave MacLeod
7M ago
A few weeks ago I picked up a mild A2 pulley injury in my finger. As many of you know, I wrote a whole chapter in Make or Break about finger injuries, but I thought I would make an episode showing you how I work around it to keep training despite the finger injury. Obviously, copying exactly what I do here is not the objective - every injury is different. It's about the general principle of working around injuries and how you might go about that. I hope it comes across in the episode that finding workarounds allows you to stay in better shape and remove a lot of the psychological pain of gett ..read more
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Caitlin Connor - Ice competitor
Dave MacLeod Blog
by Dave MacLeod
7M ago
A film I made over on the Fort William Mountain Festival channel about Caitlin Connor - an ice comp and dry tooling specialist. It was pretty tough to film this and not join in with the training! Caitlin received the Youth Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture this year. If you would like to nominate a young person making an important contribution in the mountains for this award, you can do so here ..read more
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