StrengthClimbing Blog
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Features articles on strength training, assessments, reviews, and endurance training. StrengthClimbing is a website dedicated to effective training for climbing. Improve your strength and endurance.
StrengthClimbing Blog
1y ago
Calculate your sport climbing grade with the new Tindeq setting! – contents
Force plate dynamometer measurements for rock climbing training – Introduction
Sport climbing level calculator for Tindeq Progressor
Brief overview of the climbing grade models
The concept of Critical Force in rock climbing endurance training
Finger flexor Critical Force measurements in practice
Peak Load/Peak Force measurements
What can we learn from CF measurements?
Rock Climbing Critical Force measurements with the Tindeq Progressor – Summary
Force plate dynamometer measurements for rock climbing training - In ..read more
StrengthClimbing Blog
1y ago
New! - Sport Climbing Level Calculator!
If you're a sport/lead climber, there's a new tool available! The Sport Climbing Level Calculator!
The Sport Climbing Level Calculator is designed specifically for sport/lead climbers. It analyzes the athlete's finger strength and forearm endurance profile to estimate the expected climbing grade accurately.
Sport Climbing Level Calculator!
Fully automatic Sport Climbing Performance Analysis!
Analyze!
The Sport Climbing Level Calculator will:
Let you know how hard you could be climbing at your current fitness level
Pinpoint your biggest weaknes ..read more
StrengthClimbing Blog
1y ago
Sport Climbing Level Calculator - Introduction
Have you ever wondered how hard you could lead climb at your current fitness level? Do you feel stuck on a sport climbing plateau, despite having super strong fingers? Or maybe your endurance is excellent, and you're considering investing time in finger strength training? Would you like to know how hard other climbers with comparable finger strength and forearm endurance climb?
If so, running a simple test with the Sport Climbing Level Calculator can let you answer your questions and help you get on track with your training! All you need to do ..read more
StrengthClimbing Blog
1y ago
MaxHangs MAW-MED 8-week training cycle spreadsheet
Setting up your own training cycle can be challenging, particularly in the case of routines such as the MaxHangs, where it's necessary to calculate added load, edge depths, and other parameters. That's why I have created functional Excel spreadsheets for StrengthClimbing registered Premium Users [1].
Trigger neural adaptations efficiently through low volume, short time under tension, and high loads.
All you need to do is register for a 1-month subscription plan and download the Excel spreadsheet. The MaxHangs MAW_MED training spreadsh ..read more
StrengthClimbing Blog
1y ago
Endurance Repeaters Pyramids – Contents
Endurance Repeaters Pyramids – Introduction
Endurance Repeaters Pyramids – Basic Concept
Endurance Repeaters Pyramids – Practical explanation
Training stimulus of the Endurance Repeaters Pyramids
Lactic capacity training (>100% CF)
Anaerobic threshold training (85 – 100% CF)
Maximum oxygen consumption training (85 – 100% CF)
Aerobic threshold training (70 – 85% CF)
Climbing endurance training common adaptations
Endurance Repeaters Pyramids – things to consider
Endurance Repeaters Pyramids – Summary
Endurance Repeaters Pyramids - Introduction ..read more
StrengthClimbing Blog
1y ago
Ketogenic diet for rock climbers – contents
Ketogenic diet for rock climbers – Introduction
My first encounter with the ketogenic diet
What is the ketogenic diet?
Keto diet and weight loss
Keto diet vs. typical “crash” diets
Keto diet and muscle mass
Keto diet and strength
Keto diet and muscle endurance
Keto diet – things to consider before you try it
Ketogenic diet for climbers – summary
Ketogenic diet for rock climbers - Introduction
Climbing is a sport where the strength-to-weight and power-to-weight ratios are critical for success. Therefore, climbers understandably strive to minimiz ..read more
StrengthClimbing Blog
1y ago
Finger strength measurements for rock climbers – contents
Finger strength measurements for rock climbers – Introduction
Simple MVC-7 calculator
The concept of MVC-7
The MVC-7 to 1RM analogy
Hang intensity vs. time to failure
Selecting the test edge for finger strength measurements
Putting theory into practice
Simple MVC-7 calculator instructions
Finger strength measurements for rock climbers – summary
Finger strength measurements for rock climbers - Introduction
If you're serious about training for climbing, monitoring your progress, and making the most out of your hangboard training, yo ..read more
StrengthClimbing Blog
1y ago
Rock climbing endurance measurements – contents
Rock climbing endurance measurements – Introduction
The concept of Critical Force in rock climbing
The three energy systems climbers use
How to determine your Critical Force for rock climbing
First, determine your maximum finger strength – MVC-7
Equipment required for rock climbing endurance measurements
Calculation of the finger endurance test loads
How to measure the finger endurance total test time
How to determine finger endurance test failure
To shake out, or not to shake out?
Anaerobic alactic/lactic endurance test (80% MVC-7)
Anaerobic l ..read more
StrengthClimbing Blog
1y ago
Bouldering Veteran's road to V11 - Introduction
The US is undoubtedly a rock-climbing paradise, full of fantastic climbing areas. Whether it's big wall climbing, endurance sport climbing, crack climbing, or bouldering, you're sure to find something for yourself. However, since it's such a vast land, it's often necessary to travel extensive distances to get to the most popular and well-known crags. But it's only sometimes required to travel far; incredible climbing could lurk just around the corner.
This is the story of Paul Gennaro, a New Yorker who recently climbed his personal best at the l ..read more
StrengthClimbing Blog
1y ago
Beastmaking - A fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber - Review
It's time to review another book from Vertebrate Publishing - "Beastmaking" by Ned Feehally. For me, this was one of the most anticipated climbing releases in recent years! The author is a remarkably talented boulderer. Among his many notable ascents, we can find, for example, The Big Island 8C in Font, a flash ascent of Trust Issues 8B+ in Rocklands, and multiple challenging highballs [1]. Ned is also the co-founder and designer of Beastmaker 1000 and Beastmaker 2000, which became what I believe to be the most succe ..read more