Book review: Fashion for God
Jessica Grimm Blog
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1w ago
Before I let you know what I think of the catalogue accompanying the latest textile exhibition of Museum Catharijneconvent, I have some lovely announcements. Firstly, I have been re-invited to join the International Festival of Goldwork and Jewelery in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. Two years ago, I sadly couldn't honour the invitation as I was very sick with Covid. So, fingers crossed that I stay healthy this time! Secondly, I have been notified by the Royal Dutch National Library that they will yearly archive a copy of my website and make it available in their collection. That's pretty cool too, I thi ..read more
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Recreation of the 'Angel Choir' finished
Jessica Grimm Blog
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3w ago
My recreation of the 'Angel Choir' is finished. It is based on a chasuble cross fragment kept at the Bayerische Nationalmuseum in Munich. The fragment is part of a much larger group of embroideries showing the life of Mary and Jesus. There is evidence that these mass-produced embroideries were made with the help of printing blocks. The design drawings were printed onto the embroidery linen. They prove that some embroiderers immediately incorporated the newest technology (printing) into their workshop workflow. The resulting embroideries are very standardised and have a lovely primitive feel. T ..read more
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Do we collectively lose embroidery techniques and standards?
Jessica Grimm Blog
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1M ago
Not sure how many of you studied last week's pictures of the Schlosser set of vestments in great detail. If you did, you might have spotted the same oddities as I did. For starters, there's the 'enhancement' of the faces with oil paint. Not an unusual practice. The skill needed to work these super fine silken stitches to render the faces was something that the restorers of these late-medieval embroideries could no longer do from about the 17th century onwards. Another thing which you might have spotted was the cutting up of orphreys. Some were made less wide (breast pieces of the dalmatics) an ..read more
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From Cologne to Frankfurt: the Schlosser vestment set
Jessica Grimm Blog
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1M ago
One of the highlights of my museum tour at the end of November last year, was the Dommuseum Frankfurt. It has nine medieval embroidered vestments on permanent display. Well worth a visit! At the beginning of the year, I showed you a green chasuble with embroideries from the mid-14th century and the second quarter 15th century made in Cologne. This time, I will introduce you to the Schlosser vestment set with embroideries made in both the Netherlands and Cologne. Both were made around AD 1475 (last quarter of the 15th century). The or nue, or shaded gold, used on the figures is very beautiful ..read more
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Booze and Madder
Jessica Grimm Blog
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1M ago
Asking for beer at 9:30h in the morning raised a few eyebrows next door at the abbey. Assuring Friar Markus that it was needed for an embroidery experiment did not improve things much. But it was the truth. What had happened? During my talk for MEDATS, I asked the audience for help with the madder conundrum. Whilst oil will do the trick, the greasy halo is very unsightly. Afterwards, I was contacted by Deborah Fox, who had done some dyeing experiments herself and she suggested alcohol. Ale was omnipresent in the Middle Ages as most water was too polluted to drink. I had always dismissed this o ..read more
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Reconstructing a lost late-medieval model book for embroidery
Jessica Grimm Blog
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2M ago
When we looked at the embroidered chasuble from Fritzlar with the Virgo inter Virgines iconography last week, I was sure that I would be able to find many Doppelgänger. I had seen this iconography many times before and I was quite sure that these pieces were all very similar. Nope. They are not. As soon as you start to look at these pieces in more detail you will find that they are all different. Either in the placement of the individual figures and/or in the embroidery techniques used. Now what does this mean? On the one hand, these pieces are readily recognisable as a group and on the other ..read more
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An all female affair: late 15th century embroidery from Central Germany
Jessica Grimm Blog
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2M ago
Late last year, I visited the Domschatz of Fritzlar. This is a small museum with several embroidered medieval textiles on display, which you can photograph as long as you don't use flash. The textiles are extremely well-lit and very close to the display case's glass. This means that you can examine them very well! The small town of Fritzlar itself is well worth a visit as it has these quintessential charming German medieval townhouses. Today, we will examine one of the embroidered chasubles on display. It was made in the late 15th century in Central Germany. Depending on the defenition, this c ..read more
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An invitation to come to Vienna
Jessica Grimm Blog
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2M ago
About two and a half weeks ago, I received an invitation to come to Vienna. The invitation was from M. Maurer, the company that makes my gold threads (here's an earlier blog post about them). They were founded 160 years ago and they were throwing a party for their established customers. My husband and I decided to go as we felt really honoured by the invitation. And visiting Vienna is always a treat. Especially as the city happens to house one of the most important collections of medieval goldwork embroidery in the world: the Vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece and the Imperial Regalia ..read more
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Tutorial: Pearl-edged Nimbus
Jessica Grimm Blog
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3M ago
Have you seen my new blog index? So far, all blogs up until January 2020 have been neatly indexed. You'll find a list of book reviews, my projects listed according to embroidery techniques, historical embroideries listed according to century and a complete list of all tutorials. Today's tutorial is all about the white string we see in many medieval goldwork embroideries. This padding is often all that remains from the original bead embroidery worked with freshwater pearls. When we are really lucky, a few pearls still adhere. As is the case for the chasuble I showed you two weeks ago. In this t ..read more
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Spectacular 14th century embroidery from Cologne
Jessica Grimm Blog
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3M ago
It never ceases to amaze me that, after having studied medieval goldwork embroidery for quite some time now, I still find spectacular pieces that I had never previously heard of. Casual literature references lead me to obscure tiny museums which happen to house a real treasure. The original, mostly late 19th and early 20th century authors, raved about these pieces. And rightly so! But for one reason or the other, these pieces never made it into our collective knowledge base on medieval goldwork embroidery. And that's a real shame. Today, I am going to point out two spectacular pieces to you th ..read more
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