I've heard that every 8000-meter peak is now a glorified tourist attraction and that Porters and other hired labor have installed so much fixed rope that you can climb a mountain like K2 even if you aren't that physically fit. That in May, places like Everest are choked full of people who've never climbed a mountain and that every big mountain now has lines of tourists desperate to try and take a picture at How do the more skilled mountaineers avoid these problems? Every mountain seems to be served by commercial expeditions, but how do people who intend to climb these peaks in the alpine styl ..read more

Hi, I was experimenting with series anchors and I already used a couple of times the bowline method (on bolts and ice screws, but my main interest is using it on bolts). My question is: Why cant I connect the sling directly to the carabiner instead of using the bowline? And the Carabiner becomes the masterpoint... In my opinion this method has 3 advantages: 1) the masterpoint can be a big carabiner and this makes life easier when you have to connect more than 2 things to it (as the sling shrinks under load and its harded to add things into the master point) 2) easier/safer? to do (some fo ..read more

Title. I'm planning on doing around five days of via ferrata day routes of medium difficulty. I bought Scarpa Charmoz for other purposes but didn't get to use them at all. I was thinking this trip would be a good opportunity to take them but I'm concerned they would be too hot or not appropriate. What do you think? submitted by /u/Expensive_Wear3419 [visit reddit] [comments ..read more

Hi team, so I am trying to find answer on the best way to approach a 2 weeks bikepacking race in high altitude but I can’t find an answer that is satisfying. The facts: - 2 weeks bikepacking race in kyrgistan, lower altitude 750m, highest altitude 4000m - 5 days to acclimate - Will be down to 1000m and back to 4000 multiple times in this 2 weeks period. The issue: -The highest accomodation available sits at about 2200m, but I’ve heard I need to sleep between 2500-3000 for a few days to acclimate best. - I don’t want to camp because I want the best sleep and good food before what will be ..read more

I'm just seeking some advice here for a plan to get to 6000 m. I've been planning (read: daydreaming) a ~10 day trip to the Bolivian and Peruvian Andes around Memorial Day, mixing some UNESCO sites with some non-technical ascents. My current plan is to fly into La Paz, and do day trips to Pico Austria (5350 m) and Chacaltaya (5420 m) as hikes to get used to the altitude. I'd like to tour for a few days around Bolivia, like Sucre and Potosi, then fly to Arequipa to tackle either Misti (5820 m) or Chachani (6075 m). Does this sound like a reasonable acclimatization program for someone who lives ..read more

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It’s the MH ACI 3 single walled tent. I have an unguided trip to Denali scheduled for next year, and Vinson (guided) the year after. The description says the tent will hold up at 8000 meters. Other objectives on the radar in the future would be ama dablam, fall 25, lahoste, cho , and the crown jewel of Everest by 2026. Is the single walled design that much inferior to The trango 3 ? It’s significantly heavier and might be a bit much to haul up a mountain solo if im doing one of my more chill weekend climbs (like Shasta) . The aci3 also seems like it’s quite a bit easier to set up. submit ..read more

They’re separating where the glue of the sole meets the footbed it feels like. I’ve temporarily fixed it with some shoe glue but realistically if it flexes I’m not sure it’ll hold up. When it was peeling off I could basically see into the shoe and looking at the bottom of the footbed. I love these boots and don’t want them to die yet but it may be time for some new ones! submitted by /u/euaeuo [visit reddit] [comments ..read more

Experienced climber, but it's been a minute since I tackled anything big (life happens). I've been maintaining my fitness by running and strength training. Some of my friends want to climb the DC in June/July, and I want to gauge where I'm at fitness wise How do you measure your fitness for climbing? I know about the alpine combine from TNFTNA and the 1000ft per hour with 20% body weight guidance from the big guide companies — curious what else is out there. Thanks guys! submitted by /u/theoneguywithhair [visit reddit] [comments ..read more

Looking to climb Vincent Pyramid with my two mates. Have all done a variety of climbing all over the UK and now looking to home out skills on some bigger mountains. We heard Vincent pyramid is a good start for semi experienced mountaineers. Has anyone any experience or tips to climb this mountain or similar? Looking for the best time of the year, specific level of kit we'll need, schedules, hostels, what route to take etc We have a rough idea but are just looking for any advice from someone with experience. Thanks in advance. submitted by /u/Odd_Marzipan9129 [visit reddit] [comments ..read more