lotI’ve made it no secret; over the years, I’ve become obsessed with polar travel. In fact, I’ve become so obsessed that I am now an expedition guide, spending roughly half the year at sea in Antarctica and the Arctic. And I’m not slowing down anytime soon. I’ve already started a three-month season with Adventure Canada in the Arctic for this summer in Canada and Greenland. These polar places are almost inaccessible. The easiest and most efficient way to visit is by expedition ship. Most of the year, sea ice locks the Arctic away. Only for a few months in the summer does it melt enough to allo ..read more

There aren’t many places in New Zealand that make me question my choice to live in Wānaka, but Golden Bay definitely did. Warm, sunny, and most importantly, cheap, Golden Bay piqued my interest as somewhere I could easily live comfortably. I’m just not sure I’m hippie enough to fit the local criteria, but more on that in a minute.  After finishing the Heaphy Track outside of Takaka, I caught the shuttle from Golden Bay Air to the airport, where I rented a car. These are the guys who organize the logistics and flights around the area. Takaka is approximately one million miles and $500 wort ..read more

There are so many walks and tramps in New Zealand on my list that I haven’t had a chance to check out. And no matter how much I get out and tackle them, the list only grows longer. Funny how that happens.  But there is one track I’ve been wanting to do forever, the Heaphy Track. New Zealand has ten Great Walks, including the Heaphy, and I’ve basically done them all, some even a few times. Great Walks have better infrastructure than our normal backcountry tramps – they also come with bigger price tags and book out fast. Bigger, fancier huts with wardens. Some even have flushing toilets ..read more

As the calendar ticked over in mid-May and my 36th birthday rolled around, I couldn’t help but begin reflecting on some of those scary, big questions no one really wants to face. Starting with the obvious – do I want kids? A flexible no. Do I want to date? It’s hard to date when you hate men. Do I want to stay in Wānaka long term? Maybe. When and where would I buy a house one day? Note to self – ramp up saving for a house. It’s so easy for me to slip into negative thought patterns about money and relationships, chastising myself for not following a traditional life path. My life in Wānaka is n ..read more

I can still remember the first time I saw a weka here in New Zealand. Traveling around the South Island, I was staying in a cute cabin in the forest on the West Coast. On a humid, warm day, I left the doors open, hoping for a breeze. First rookie mistake, guys: never leave anything open when visiting the West Coast in the bush. You will be annihilated by sandflies.  Looking up from my book, I saw that a big, fat brown bird had wandered inside, poking around fearlessly. What is this thing? I had no idea. I spent the next 10 minutes shooing it around, trying to encourage it to go back outsi ..read more

I had already been living at sea for over a month aboard the Ocean Endeavour with Adventure Canada when I first heard whispers about a very special place. Deep in the heart of Nunavut in Canada, there is one of the best wildlife spots in the Arctic: Coningham Bay in the Northwest Passage. Never heard of it? Don’t worry, not many have.  Coningham Bay might look like any other bay in the vast, sprawling tundra of the Arctic. Wide and desolate, it is special because it has a narrow, shallow entrance. Inside, the bay itself is pretty shallow. Beluga whales like to come inside the bay and roll ..read more

One of the coolest things about being a travel blogger is meeting the most interesting people. And that’s coming from someone who doesn’t consider herself a people person. Hello, fellow introverts! Years ago, when a friend visited overseas, I booked a super cute Airbnb on Waiheke Island. New Zealand’s hot wine destination had been beckoning me for years. Afterwards, I stayed friends with the Airbnb owner, Tim. When he turned one of the oldest homes in Reefton into a Gold Rush-era-inspired getaway, you bet I was going to be the first one there.   Cozy getaway? Little fire? Historical ..read more

Sooooooo, about last night. Holy crap, guys! We just experienced the most incredible aurora display I’ve ever seen in New Zealand. Did you manage to take it in wherever you were in the world? Frost was already starting to settle on the cars parked along my street in Lake Hāwea last night when I bundled up to head out and look for the Southern Lights. It only gets this level of bone cold when the skies are perfectly clear around Central Otago. White walker weather that sometimes heralds a rare hoarfrost. Remember, we’re going into winter down here in New Zealand. I really struggled with summing ..read more

Often, I find myself reflecting on my love for the sea. I don’t know where it came from. I didn’t grow up near the ocean, nor am I much of a beach bum. Laying around in a swimsuit, like, in front of people all day doing nothing? And how annoying is sand? Scoffs. No thanks. Actually, if I’m being honest, I am more of a beach person now than I used to be. Pretentious young traveler me always wanted to be doing things and taking in the sights. Relaxing and holiday never belonged in the same sentence. I need to SEE and DO it ALL. Having burnt myself out so many times since, your girl loves a lazy ..read more

You know those people whose lives seem effortless? On the surface (social media), they appear to have everything going for them: good health, a great career, a respectable bank account, and a happy family. However, I also think we’re starting to be woke enough to know that, of course, the internet version of ourselves is not a good measure of testing reality. But still. What is it like to feel really put together? You know, I’m talking about solid, unflappable folk. The Type A humans of the world. I think many of us have friends with personalities that just stay on top of their shit. Like anyt ..read more