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1. Assemble toecap and vamp pattern to draw forepart. www.denishoe.com for the new design shoe. Add trimming allowance 8mm, then vamp lining is complete. 2. Draw lines for back stay and quarter lining.  There should be a room for counter between upper back heel curve and back-stay as like picture.  add underlay allowance to back-stay and cut quarter lining. vamp, quarter lining and back-stay. Upper pattern ..read more

 1. Place standard pattern on folded paper to make toe cap pattern. www.denishoe.com for the new design shoe. 2. Draw style line accurately and cut it. 3.  To make vamp pattern, you should rotate it till upper tongue matches folded paper as like picture. Try not to find wrong rotation center. Add 10mm seam underlay then vamp pattern is complete.  4.  Draw upper quarter line and add seam underlay , 4mm and 5mm allowances     as like picture.  Because sponge is inserted into throat line of slip-on shoe,  upper quarter has ..read more

Cut style line for drawing. www.denishoe.com for the new design shoe. To spring toe, mark a point  8mm away from a line as like a picture. Then rotate it and drawing style line. Make overlapped lines smooth. Then find new crease line.( it is important to calculate the quantity of empty space under the crease line.) Standard pattern is complete ..read more

www.denishoe.com        To make the length of outside and inside of pattern, find rotation center. Point A is vamp point (or center point). (In previous post <How to find 'center point' or 'vamp point'> I explained  how to find point B.) Rotation center is center point between point A and B. Overlap inside and outside pattern and draw inside out line of lasting allowance. Rotate inside pattern until both back heel curves meet together. This job makes the lengthes of inside and outside same. Make the line smooth. Then mean form pattern is ..read more

If you have been doing practice only court shoe pattern, it is difficult to draw slip-on style line on the last.  www.denishoe.com     The most important thing for slip-on drawing is balancing forepart and back part of style line and having enough width of rubber band.  (if the width of rubber band isn't enough for stretching, it will not allow your foot to go into the shoe.) Take the masking tapes off carefully and attach them onto the paper. And add lasting allowance. (Generally  insole of slip-on doesn't need steel shank) Draw rough style lines ..read more

1. To have sufficient space for lining and stiffener, draw back heel curve inwardly (3~4mm from back heel top, 5~6mm from back heel seat) as like picture. Counter start line can be marked as like picture. www.denishoe.com     2. Draw counter line on the paper and cut it. Place it and draw counter line onto folded paper. And add trimming allowance 7~8mm Cut along the line and complete counter pattern. 3. Mark counter start line onto the upper pattern. 4. Draw upper pattern onto the paper and add trimming allowance. And cut it ..read more

Because we sprang forepart of standard pattern, we don't need to make three-quarter cut vamp. www.denishoe.com       1. Unfold folded paper and draw style line onto it. 2. Different from court shoe, there is no leather in the forepart of peep toe shoe. So you should add closed seam allowance (2mm) as like picture. 3. Fold pattern as like picture to draw inside profile. 4. Cut along the inside and outside line. And then upper pattern is complete. With folding allowance. 5. Before you make lining pattern, do lasting only upper to check your pattern fits ..read more

1. Find a center point of rotation. www.denishoe.com       This is another way to make W standard pattern. 1) Draw outside pattern. 2) Overlap inside and outside pattern.(in this case, inside and outside pattern is matched well. If they are not, you should rotate inside pattern until inside top of the back heel curve meets outside top of the back heel curve.(center of rotation is in the middle of 2 points(indicated in the picture)) Draw back heel curve and throat line. 2. W standard before springing is complete. 3. To do spring, draw a vertical line as l ..read more

1. Tape the last up and mark a point(marked as blue cross shape) in the middle of vamp point line                                     (you can see how I tape the last up on youtube) http://youtu.be/FGRtNX3L7mA www.denishoe.com       2. Draw a reference throat line from top of back heel curve to a point(blue cross). Draw your own style line on the last. It is important that inside curve (which is indicated by red arrow) comes out more then outside curve.(you will check th ..read more