The fast action of surfing is not best suited to polaroid photography. But, where many would find the challenge of peel-apart film and the wide angle lenses and slow shutter speeds of instant cameras too much to even consider, British photographer Matt Smith has found creative opportunities. Matt lives in Cornwall, the UK’s southwestern-most and … The post Peel-Apart Peelers: The Polaroid Photography of Matt Smith first appeared on Surf Simply ..read more

The Aitor “Gallo” Francesena Profile   “When I still could see, I would get out of the water frustrated for not having done what the wave asked of me,” says Aitor Francesena, a 52-year-old surfer and surf coach from Zarautz, Basque Country, Spain. “Now that I’m blind, there’s a synchrony between what I do and … The post To The Fullest first appeared on Surf Simply ..read more

Maori Perspectives on Surfing   Editor’s Note: The following article is intended to shine a light on a different perspective of the experience of riding waves and our relationship with the environment; it does not necessarily reflect Surf Simply’s opinion on religion.   By and large, surfing has strayed radically from its cultural roots, where … The post Heke Ngaru first appeared on Surf Simply ..read more

How The Dream Waves of The Gold Coast Are Shaped In Scandinavian folklore, the Sandman sprinkles magical sand in children’s eyes to send them to sleep with beautiful dreams. If you surf then no doubt you dream of beautiful warm water peeling waves, and if you love a long right hander then the sand bottom … The post The Sandman first appeared on Surf Simply ..read more

A Welsh Case Study Acquired brain injury (ABI), a type of brain damage caused by events such as stroke, tumour, or a blow to the head, affects around 1.3 million people in the UK alone. This costs the NHS [National Health Service] roughly 10% of its annual budget, but more importantly, costs the individuals a … The post Surf Therapy for People with Acquired Brain Injury first appeared on Surf Simply ..read more

Eye-Gaze Behaviour of Surfers in a Simulated Surf Environment   The importance of where surfers direct their gaze has been a tacit, even if not entirely clear-cut, collective wisdom for a while. As of lately, though, it has been receiving the academic scrutiny it deserves. Sports research seeking to unpack athletes’ visual behaviours has found … The post Seaing Waves first appeared on Surf Simply ..read more

A Book About George Freeth and The Birth of California Beach Culture   California. Every surfer has heard of it – and yet, what are the roots of this cradle of modern surf culture? Dr Patrick Moser, a Professor of writing at Drury University in Missouri, is someone who set off to answer this question. … The post Surf and Rescue first appeared on Surf Simply ..read more

Revealing The Hydrodynamic Characteristics of Tri-Fins   I’ve never met Sam Crameri in person, but from the emails we’ve exchanged he struck me as the epitome of a surfer-scientist: he is as enthusiastic about surfing as he is about understanding, explaining, and optimising the experience thereof. His latest paper, published this past March on MDPI, … The post Raking The Surface first appeared on Surf Simply ..read more

A Sri Lankan Case Study Despite the growing interest from women to take up surfing, as well as the structural changes and increased discussions that have taken place over the last few years, gender inequalities remain a major stumbling block. And if these blocks can cause women from so-called liberal nations with developed surf cultures … The post Creating Safe Spaces For Women to Enjoy The Ocean and Surfing first appeared on Surf Simply ..read more

On March 1st, 2022, the 46th President of the United States addressed a joint session of the United States Congress and television cameras to deliver The 2022 State of the Union Address. Inspired by this annual report upon status, achievements, and ambitions for the year ahead, we are once again revisiting the state of the … The post The State of The Ocean 2022 first appeared on Surf Simply ..read more