Day Flash and Other Climbing Terms Literally No One Asked For
Evening Sends
by Andrew Bisharat
2w ago
In my lived experience, otherwise known as my experience, I’ve never actually heard the term “day flash” being genuinely used out in the wild. Perhaps this speaks to my privilege as a person who only climbs around people who haven’t graduated from the gym-to-crag idiot pipeline. Apparently, however, this term exists, even though I still don’t honestly believe it. From what I gather, a “day flash” means that you sent a project on the first try of the day. This could mean that you’ve been trying to redpoint your project over many days, but then, on the day that you actually do it, you do it on ..read more
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The Best Quickdraws for Sport Climbing
Evening Sends
by Andrew Bisharat
3w ago
“It’s weird being the same age as old people,” the saying goes. Time can slip away from you without you even realizing it. I mean, it’s almost the 10th anniversary of the Dawn Wall’s first ascent, and that still feels like a current event in my mind. Anyway, I write this not to grieve our brief mortal coil, but to mention that time is slippery—and that can be bad news for climbing gear. As a guy who still thinks that the ’90s was the last decade, I’m not surprised that I’ve still got quickdraws in rotation that are well past their shelf life. With that in mind, I decided to refresh my rack an ..read more
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The Best Women’s Pants for Cool-Weather Rock Climbing
Evening Sends
by Julie Parker
1M ago
Winter may be nearly over, but the cool-weather climbing temps will be here for awhile. Good for sending, so long as you’re dressed appropriately. These cozy pants have been tested at sunny winter crags and boulders. You may get throttled by screaming barfies but these thoroughly tested bottoms will keep you from freezing your ass off. Check out more best-in-gear picks for rock climbers on Evening Sends. This article may contain affiliate links that help support this site. Belay pants that flex Mountain Hardwear Stretchdown Pants Mountain Hardwear Stretchdown  The Stretchdown P ..read more
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The Best Sports Bras for Rock Climbing
Evening Sends
by Julie Parker
1M ago
Sports bras continue to be a necessary part of leading an active life, but they don’t need to feel like torture. I’ve tried styles ranging  from low to high support, along with some innovative designs to find the best sports bras for keeping our tatas feeling fine when we’re out climbing. These strong-body friendly cuts have been thoroughly tested on routes, boulders and around the campfire. Here are our picks for the best sports bras for rock climbing. Check out more best-in-gear picks for rock climbers on Evening Sends. This article may contain affiliate links that help support th ..read more
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The IFSC recognizes Palestinian Climbers Amid their Genocide
Evening Sends
by Andrew Bisharat
1M ago
Sports have long been viewed romantically, as spaces that transcend politics and divisions between us. Yet, sports and politics have an interesting history of intersecting, often controversially. Perhaps the most notable example of this convergence is the sports boycott of apartheid South Africa. This boycott was a decades-long campaign loosely coordinated across many countries to deny white South Africans the opportunity to compete on various global sporting stages, including the Olympics. In reading about this history, I came across an intriguing example of the lengths to which some activis ..read more
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Blaming Climbing Is Easy
Evening Sends
by Andrew Bisharat
1M ago
The deafening silence of pro climbers not calling for a ceasefire. The climbing culture complicit in sexual harassment. The failures to protect comp youths from predators. The grade-obsessed media celebrating those who have eating disorders. The carbon footprint of professional athletes who go on expeditions in the name of addressing climate change. To varying degrees, these issues have roiled climbing discourse. In a recent example, a must-read piece in Outside details the dark history and pattern of abuses of a semi-pro climber who began his trial this week for a violent rape he is alleged ..read more
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Downgrading is for the People
Evening Sends
by Andrew Bisharat
2M ago
When I heard the news that Will Bosi had essentially climbed Sleepwalker in his sleep, my face turned into a Laughing Leonardo meme and I drew myself a warm bath with Jimmy Webb’s tears. But then when I heard Will, this cheeky Brit, went a step further by actually downgrading one of the most repeated V16s in the world to merely V15, I thought: RUDE! Doesn’t Will know that downgrading is for the people? I just checked online, and, yep, we didn’t sanction this downgrade. Will has no business deciding what is or isn’t V16. That’s our business! ‘Scuse me, Will, but we don’t get in your way by gre ..read more
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Writing About Climbing Can Improve Your Experience
Evening Sends
by Andrew Bisharat
3M ago
So you’ve clicked on a post that seems to promise you something. In this case, the promise is that writing can somehow improve your climbing experience. I wonder what goes through your head when you click a title like that. Perhaps your mind darts to a listicle of tips and tricks that will somehow augment the boring, ordinary experience you might think you’re currently having. Or perhaps you’re already imagining harvesting some quick tidbits of knowledge that will lead you to write better Instagram captions, which means more followers, which maybe somehow means more status, freedom, money, o ..read more
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There is Just Climbing
Evening Sends
by Andrew Bisharat
3M ago
The National Park Service and US Forest Service agencies have each introduced proposals for how they’d like to start managing climbing access. The proposals, which are virtually identical, seek to re-define bolts as prohibited “installations,” thereby making them illegal under the semantics of the 1964 Wilderness Act. Should this climbing management guidance pass, it would be a code red attack on climbing in America. These proposals would not only overturn 60 years of precedent during which climbers have climbed responsibly on Wilderness lands—which necessarily includes installing bolts—but t ..read more
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Notes from a Climber During a War
Evening Sends
by Asia Zughaiar
4M ago
I’m in the back of an orange Skoda Fabia, with the white and green license plate that marks us as Palestinians, cruising through the mountains of the West Bank on our way to the crag. I grabbed a Black Diamond bottle opener, which I acquired from the Black Diamond store in Boulder, Colorado, earlier this year, to crack open the best, cheapest soda water one can find these days. It’s called Uludag, and it’s imported all the way from Turkey. The Uludag tasted like everything else, 20% despair and 80% anxiety. We decided to go climbing that day, not with the hopes of sending a new route but simp ..read more
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