Often overlooked for the warmer waters of its Hawaiian and Californian counterparts, the Atlantic coast of New Jersey has been home to surfing for 135 years, and in turn has held unsung influence over the history of the sport in America.”  That is the Opening Quote for the newly released book “I Heard There Were No Waves in New Jersey: Surfing on the Jersey Shore 1888-1984” by Rizzoli Publishing and edited by Danny DiMauro and Johan Kugelberg.  Our Guests for this episode of Hardcore Surf History are the contributors to this beautiful book and tribute to New Jersey Surfing. Book Edit ..read more

It could have happened anytime, anywhere. But our guest’s story takes place in Santa Barbara, California from 1980 to 1983. Four short years that saw a giant leap forward in the development of West Coast surfing, design, performance and image. It was set off by a rare combination of individuals, innovation and illumination,against a backdrop of some of the best seasons of surf in two decades.  Some have called this California’s Halcyon Days. But many of us may not have known about this giant leap in surfing had it not been for a modest 19 year old Texan with a slight drawl who just moved ..read more

The great Phil Edwards once said something along the lines of, ‘My first wave was the best ride of my life. Everything after was downhill.’ Whether that was true or not, the point made was the first taste of surfing often leads to obsession that sticks for life. And like any addiction, the stories of how we get hooked are as varied as the addicts themselves. From Hollywood Films to cool older brothers, inspiration takes on many forms. Each of our odysseys have their own origin stories which colour our image of what surfing is and in turn, help shape the culture itself. And like Edwards’ downhi ..read more

It would be impossible to overstate the legend of Michael Peterson in the annals of Australian surfing. 1976 World Champ, Peter Townend, described him as: “Miki Dora, James Dean and Marlon Brando, all rolled into one.” At the time, he was regarded by many as the best surfer that had ever lived. One of the most iconic images in surfing history is of Michael Peterson at Kirra in 1971 laying his board on rail in his iconic red trunks. The shot became the classic film poster for Morning of the Earth and was used as the cover of Tracks Magazine in February 1972. His Iconic turn consolidated his rep ..read more

On this episode, Was surfing really better way back when? We explore the pros and cons of being a surfer today. We ask, Is our perception of the past a cognitive bias? Or was it really that much better? And did waves pump that much harder. Plus, Jamie and Tyler see how their past experiences stack up against each other with another round of Stump my Bro. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices ..read more

On this episode of Hardcore Surf History Bonus Section, Tyler goes full on surf nerd with the legendary Matt George. They discuss his new book 'In Deep' and get the real story behind behind 'In Gods Hands', his win at the Mr. Hot Buns Competition at the Allentown Wave Pool competition and reflect on how the media landscape has changed. This is a not to be missed episode! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices ..read more

On this episode, we tackle the essential question: What is Style and why does it matter? We ask What makes a surfer stylish? Where did we get our notions of style from? Who has it? Who doesn’t? and Why does it mean so much to us? We wade our way into the fraught and subjective topic on a matter of style. And of course… The Breuer Brothers try to out-vogue each other with Stump My Bro. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices ..read more

On today's episode we look in the mirror and take a long, hard, sobering look at the image of surfing. How important is surfing’s image? Does it shape surfing’s culture? Does it affect who takes up the sport? Does it impact on the actual experience itself? Do these questions even matter? Then after we stare long enough at ourselves, Jamie and Tyler have a staring contest and try to Stump My Bro. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices ..read more

At This year's Rip Curl Bells Beach Easter Classic’s 60th Anniversary, Tom Curren and Mark Occhilupo–two of surfing's most influential characters and rivals–competed in a special Heritage Heat. The Curren/Occy Rivalry is stuff of legends. Many middle aged men get weak in the knees just mentioning the two. But.. Why? Why do we care so much about this rivalry? What is its importance to pro surfing? Who are these two surfers that captured our imaginations and have inspired generations of surfers? We dive in and give context to surf history. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.c ..read more

On this episode of Hardcore Surf History, we dive into our Houses of the Holy: The Surf Shop. What have they meant to surfers over the years? How have they shaped surf culture? The history of surf retail and how they have evolved over time. Plus another round of “Stump my Bro.” Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices ..read more