It’s become a bit of a trope at this point: someone posts a picture of an old beat-up Rolex online, asks a group of watch nerds what to do to maintain it, and a chorus of comments says “Whatever you do, don’t send it to Rolex; they’ll replace everything!” I always chime in to say that Rolex Service Centers are actually perfectly friendly to vintage watches–they provide itemized work orders before they start, and they won’t polish the watch if you ask them not to. They do good work, and they’ll service any vintage Rolex they have parts for–but parts for watches from the 1960’s and earlier are ..read more

This century, the mechanical watch world has advanced greatly in terms of power reserves, magnetic resistance, and insanely complicated tourbillons. But arguably the horological domain with the most notable breakthroughs, since 2011 in particular, has been ultra-thin watches. Here we’ll give you a quick guide to the thinnest watch in each major category (spoiler alert: Bulgari dominates), and also provide a timeline of major thinness advancements. To put things in perspective, in 2011, the slimmest automatic tourbillon watch in the world was 10.4mm thick. By 2018, Bulgari had smashed that r ..read more

While we’ve already covered a slew of women’s watches released at Watches & Wonders from the likes of Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Tudor, it’s worth having a closer look at brands that primarily focus on watches for women. Some examples that come to mind are Hermès, Chanel, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Piaget. While these companies focus heavily on other luxury products such as fine jewelry, leather goods, and ready-to-wear, they all have some pretty serious watchmaking divisions within their hallowed halls too. From the outrageously opulent to the sleek sporty ..read more

Collectors often don’t think about it like this, but for most of history, the vast majority of Rolex dials (and watch dials in general) have been either silver, white, black, or champagne. Blue dials started to get somewhat common in the 1970’s, but all other colors have remained relatively rare overall. Purple Rolex dials are certainly unusual, but several kinds do exist. Some came from the factory purple, and others faded that way. In this article I’ll try to cover every known type of purple Rolex dial. Rolex Submariner Purple Dials Some Submariner Date models with blue dials made from abo ..read more

The Pelagos, Tudor’s titanium diver, has only been in production since 2012. Compared to other giants in the dive watch industry, such as the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which have decades of production under their belts, that is just a mere blip on the radar. Still, the Pelagos has made a big impression on collectors with its refreshing approach to the traditional dive watch aesthetic. In this guide, we will cover everything you need to know about the collection, making our way through every Tudor Pelagos model in order of production. An Overview of the T ..read more

⬤ LIVE WATCHES & WONDERS 2024 LIVE UPDATES: Check back regularly for updated coverage. Although the big brands typically steal all the headlines during the first few days of Watches & Wonders, independent brands don’t shy away from flaunting their latest watches at the show either. The “indies” typically rely on top-notch innovations, impressive mechanics, creative designs, and/or impeccable handicrafts to stand out from the slew of new timepieces announced at the event. From the likes of H. Moser & Cie, Ulysse Nardin, Laurent Ferrier, and others, here are some new releases ..read more

Rolex files lots of patents, and sometimes they’re difficult to decipher. Often there is endless legalese and it’s unclear what’s even being patented or if it’s truly new. But design patents are a little bit less ambiguous, and Rolex has been granted some Swiss design patents with surprisingly clear images. Here are the five probable off-catalog 2024 Rolex models we could find in the Swiss patent database. White Gold Deepsea The yellow gold Deepsea was one of the new Rolex 2024 models revealed at Watches and Wonders. It has its own design patent, and there appears to be a patent for white go ..read more

A. Lange & Söhne is not only one of the most respected German watch brands, but one of the most respected watch brands, period. Their movement finishing sets the standard for the industry. Their Datograph line of chronographs is particularly beloved by luxury watch enthusiasts, and they’ve released two new lovely Datograph variants at Watches and Wonders 2024. They’re pretty much both just new dial options (plus a slightly tweaked movement in the Perpetual), but they’re still worth taking a look at. Here’s everything you need to know about these two Lange 2024 releases. Lange 2024 Datogr ..read more

⬤ LIVE WATCHES & WONDERS 2024 LIVE UPDATES: Check back regularly for updated coverage. If you watch the America’s Cup, and you see a boat with a big Panerai logo on its sail, that’s the Italian Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli sailing team. Panerai’s partnership with the team has resulted in several Luna Rossa models, which generally have blue or white dials and a strap with a signature red stripe in the middle. Panerai seems to be betting big on its Submersible line lately, and they released five new Submersible Luna Rossa models for Watches & Wonders 2024. Three are time-and-date mod ..read more

⬤ LIVE WATCHES & WONDERS 2024 LIVE UPDATES: Check back regularly for updated coverage. Patek Phillipe makes some of the most coveted and collectible watches across the entire watchmaking landscape. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that the anticipation for what the brand will release is always high among enthusiasts. And this year was no different with plenty of predictions and leaks fueling the social media gossip mill. The wait is over; here’s a look at all the Patek Philippe 2024 Watches and Wonders releases, complete with photos, specs, and prices. Patek Philippe 2024 Watches ..read more